The Organ Pipes

Climbing on the Pipes is serious. Or at least it looks and feels that way! Occasional loose rock, complex route finding and a sense of exposure heightened by the kilometre drop down to sea level all contribute to a wilderness adventure. As Phil Robinson said in the 1981 edition: "In terms of mileage of routes, skinned knuckles, expenditure of effort and annual traffic, the Organ Pipes is the major focus of climbing activity in Tasmania." This is still true today. And all this fun is only 20 minutes drive from the centre of town.

Rock

The rock is comprised of a number of separate buttresses up to 120m high of vertical dolerite, typically in columns. The rock is very compact, though there is surface exfoliation in places due to bushfires. Large blocks that look precariously stacked are mostly just that. Be especially wary in spring, as frost action is instrumental in loosening previously solid blocks. Vegetation has crept back onto the less frequented routes since the fires in 1967. Route descriptions are constantly being reviewed to take the regrowth and subsquent gardening on these routes into account.

Aspect

Facing east and sheltered from the prevailing westerlies, the Pipes catch most of the morning sun. However its elevation at 1000m means it can get cold very quickly when the sun disappears.

Access From the Bottom

An access track to the bottom of the Pipes starts at the end of the climbers' carpark, a small parking bay on the LH side of the road 2.7 km past the Springs.

Parking in the climbers' carpark can accommodate seven cars at a squeeze if cars are parked perpendicularly to the road and close together. However at weekends it fills up rapidly. If its full park further up the road at the Chalet and walk along south along the Organ Pipes track, which is a flat easy walk of less than 15 minutes to the Northern Buttress track junction. Alternatively park at the Springs or at the summit and walk down. There have been cases of theft from cars from all the parking areas so it is advisable not to leave items of value in your car.

From the LH end of the parking bay, a definite track leads straight up the hill through a boulder field to intersect with the Organ Pipes Track (GPS MTW000). From this track junction, it is possible to access the base of all routes on the Organ Pipes.

For access to routes located between Broken Buttress and Flange Buttress, walk L along the Organ Pipes Track and use the relevant signed 'feeder' tracks to access the base of the individual buttresses. Please use only the signed tracks which have been formalised and signed by the Wellington Park Trust. See individual buttress sections in the text for details.

The track directly opposite the Organ Pipes track junction (GPS MTW000) leads on uphill. This is the Northern Buttress feeder track and it provides access to the base of routes between the Columns and the Far North. The track meets the base of cliff at Northern Buttress (GPS MTW010) where it forks. The L fork to the Shipwreck provides access to the Columns, Amphitheatre Ledge, Rockaway Gully and the Northern Buttress - Shady side. Taking the R fork provides access to Northern Buttress - Lower Cliff, Upper Cliff and the Far North.

Access From the Top

At the summit, locate the start of the climber's track down to the Organ Pipes just to the right (south) of the main lookout shelter (GPS MTW100). This is signposted as "Climbers Advised Only Past This Point ... The Amphitheatre". Head down to pick up the pad, which is well marked with triangle orange markers and winds its way down to the top of the Columns near a patch of snow gums (GPS MTW110). Note that the Trust has asked that climbers don't hop over the fence on the viewing platforms as we have done in the past but stick to the main marked track starting at the sign in order to reduce erosion.

Walk right as viewed looking towards Hobart along the edge of the cliff line to gain access to climbs on Double, Split, Battlements and Cairn Column. Detailed information on top down access for the Columns is included in the body of the text. Continue to walk right to access sections of the crag further right of the Columns such as Central Buttress (Circus Wall & the Arena), Zoloft Wall and Teardrop Gully. Access down to these can be difficult to pick out but can be found by consulting the relevant section in the body of the text.

Walk left of the patch of snow gums (GPS MTW110) to access climbs on Cossack Column. Further left of Cossack Column and part way down the Ampitheatre track is the red dot track turn off that leads north then descends to DNA buttress, then descends via Upper reaches buttrress to Johnson's Knob. Also left of Cossack but following the curve of the cliff line is the Amphitheatre track and a rap station that descends Ethnic Cornflake to the base of the cliff (marked by a blue dot, GPS MTW130). Further left and downhill is the top of Exit/Entry, a non-trivial scramble to the base of the cliff.

Climbing Info

Over 400 routes have been recorded so far on the Organ Pipes proper. The majority are trad climbing but there is an increasing number of bolted walls and arêtes. Routes look serious and intimidating, but the stepped nature of the cliff line generally allows rest stances between difficulties. The climbing is typically a mixture of face holds, jugs, and jams with only a few routes requiring use of pure crack technique. Dolerite friction allows the feet to be placed on small edges and smears. There are a small number of quality easier climbs, many of which have been resurrected from the forest regrowth and most of these are steep and physical. Slabs or gentle walls are a rarity, Blue Meridian (pitch one) on Great Tier being one of the few exceptions. For the trad climber, taping of hands is neither wimpy nor a demonstration of poor technique. Indeed it might stave off the need for a blood transfusion.

Gear

Dolerite eats cams. A set of wires and a double rack of cams from BD #0.3 to #3, including a #4 is usually sufficient. Some routes require extra helpings of certain sizes or wires, including very small or very large cams - this is usually noted in the route description though. Double (half) ropes are the standard on the multi-pitch trad climbs, particularly as many of the abseils are to 50 - 60m long. Double bolt rap stations are now common and their locations are indicated in the climbing descriptions. Hangers are not generally required but there are still some carrots around - treat these with caution as they may have been there for many years.
Routes are described from L to R starting with the buttresses on the southern end closest to the Springs and working their way to the northern end nearest the Chalet.
GPS
CodeDescriptionUTM ZoneUTM EastingUTM NorthingHeightLatLong
MTW000
Junction of climbers track with Organ Pipes track
55G
519885
5250836
0
-42.89482
147.24355
MTW010
Base of Northern Buttress
55G
519764
5250829
0
-42.89489
147.24207
MTW020
The Shipwreck
55G
519740
5250779
0
-42.89534
147.24177
MTW030
Start of Flange Buttress track
55G
519849
5250698
0
-42.89607
147.24311
MTW040
Start of Central Buttress track
55G
519827
5250667
0
-42.89635
147.24284
MTW070
Access to Bulging Buttress
55G
519753
5250466
0
-42.89816
147.24194
MTW080
Junction of Organ Pipes Track and Sawmill Track
55G
519735
5250377
0
-42.89896
147.24173
MTW100
Summit Lookout
55G
519452
5250753
0
-42.89558
147.23825
MTW110
Top of Columns cliff line near snow gum patch
55G
519663
5250757
0
-42.89554
147.24083
MTW120
Cossack Column rap station
55G
519669
5250800
0
-42.89515
147.24090
MTW130
Amphitheatre rap station
55G
519676
5250831
0
-42.89487
147.24099
MTW140
Split Column rap station
55G
519683
5250760
0
-42.89551
147.24108
MTW150
Daedalus rap station
55G
519698
5250749
0
-42.89561
147.24126
MTW160
Early Bird bolts
55G
519667
5250818
0
-42.89499
147.24088
MTW170
Berts Fear abseil
55G
519713
5250690
0
-42.89614
147.24145
MTW180
Top of Teardrop Gully
55G
519698
5250583
0
-42.89711
147.24127
MTW190
Top of Fools Couloir (SW)
55G
519492
5250515
0
-42.89772
147.23875
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Broken Buttress24 climbs
University Buttress42 climbs
Bulging Buttress31 climbs
Teardrop Gully41 climbs
Step Tier15 climbs
Great Tier39 climbs
Central Buttress91 climbs
Flange Buttress29 climbs
The Columns81 climbs
Rockaway and Amphitheatre24 climbs
Northern Buttress55 climbs
Far North21 climbs

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