Great Tier

15 min
Morning sun
Broken dolerite cracks and faces up to 100m
Introduction
Great Tier is the big wall immediately right of Step Tier. The routes here are of good quality and the approach is straight forward. Great Tier has the largest number of grade 14 to 18 trad routes of any of the crags on the Organ Pipes. This crag has three sections; Zoloft Wall, Great Tier main wall and the Lower Tier.

Zoloft Wall is located around the prow at the left hand end of Great Tier main wall. Routes here start mid-way up the cliff and are accessed in most cases by abseiling in from above. The longer Melancholy Mania is accessed from below by traversing around the prow from the left hand end of the Great Tier access ramp.

The Great Tier main wall is immediately right of the prow and faces the Organ Pipes Track. The majority of the routes on Great Tier are found here and all start from a rising access ramp accessed from the right hand end. Towards the left hand end is the long chimney-corner of Nefertiti, while in the middle of the wall a group of three major crack lines are located; Slow Combustion, Doldrums and Roaring Forties. Near the right hand end, Blue Meridian ascends a clean face with conspicuous white scabs.

The Lower Tier is a subsidiary cliff directly below the Great Tier main wall. Originally a number of routes on the main wall had an initial pitch leading up to the access ramp, but with a resurgence in vegetation some routes are now impassable. However, the area has seen a renaissance of sorts with the creation of a number of quality new routes. The track that runs left under the base of the cliff towards Step Tier provides access to these routes.
Access
For Zoloft Wall, walk down from the summit to the top of cliffs immediately left of Teardrop Gully to access the climbs by abseil.

For Great Tier main wall and the Lower Tier, walk along the Organ Pipes track to the signposted track to Great Tier. Head directly up this track past the Central Buttress track junction to the cliff base and another track junction. To access routes on Great Tier main wall take the right hand fork to meet a short gully below the right hand end of the access ramp. Scramble up the gully for 3m to access the ramp proper.

To access routes on the Lower Tier take the left hand fork that leads towards Step Tier.

Descent:
There are several rap stations on Great Tier main wall that provide quick and convenient egress.

The Suicide Sadness rap station (1 x 58m) provides descent for routes at the left hand end of Great Tier main wall. Clouds of Obsession has a rap station at the top of the 1st pitch (1 x 30m) and Nefertiti has one at the top of the 1st pitch (1 x 40m). The Slow Combustion rap station (1 x 50m) and the Schizophrenic rap station (1 x 25m; 1 x 40m) provide egress from routes in middle of Great Tier main wall. A rap route near the right hand end descends Blue Meridian (2 x 45m).

On the Lower Tier, rap stations exist at top of Skyfall (1 x 33m to ledge, or 1 x 40m to the ground) and Kabling (1 x 25m).

Zoloft Wall

Zoloft Wall is located at the top of the cliffs between the end of Step Tier and the prow of Great Tier and is best approached from kunanyi/Mt Wellington summit. Locating the cliff from the top is tricky. From the summit, head down, then right along the cliffline towards the top of Teardrop Gully near Ano's Sojourn. Descend the ridge below staying left of Teardrop Gully, deviating to avoid tricky downclimbing, to emerge near the top of Sheeza and the nearby routes in Teardrop Gully. Rap in left of here from sling anchors.
★★ 1.Static Journey50m19 
Best done on a balmy summer's day. Rap down the line off sling anchors to access the start of the route (50m). Climb the corner 3m right of the Explorer line to a ledge at 8m where Zoloft starts. Up the crack on the left (also used by Zoloft) for 14m to a large sloping ledge. Move left around the corner (Zoloft goes straight up here) and follow the thin line up the face to the top.
P. Robinson, K. Robinson, Apr 2000.
2.Choc-o-Block25m17 
The wide crack system just right of Static Journey. Abseil 25m down to the top ledge on Static Journey/Zoloft. Climb to the top of the crack and move left to the offwidth with chockstones.
P. Robinson, K. Robinson, Dec 2000.
★★ 3.Zoloft45m19 
Excellent exposure towards the top. Varied climbing on the face and cracks left of the upper pitches of Melancholy Mania. Access by abseil (40m) to a ledge at the base of line. Climb the finger crack/face off the left of the initial ledge. Up to large sloping ledge below the roof/overlap. Climb the blocky crack on the left of the hanging nose/arête until one can move right into the crack on the nose. Up through the steep section following hand cracks up the middle right of the hanging face.
H. Jackson, M. Jackson, Jan 1999.
★★ 4.Dynamic Journey25m20 
Terrific climbing. Abseil 25m to the upper of two ledges in common with Zoloft and Static Journey. From the right hand side of the ledge and right of the hanging arête/nose, climb the steep wall (crux) to the overhang (1m left of Melancholy Mania). Follow the hand crack up the right of the hanging headwall past a flake. Up the wall on the right to the top.
P. Robinson, K. Robinson, Dec 2000.
The next route originally started as for Peacepipe on Step Tier. The overgrown first pitch is now avoided and substituted by climbing the first 8m of Janzoon then traversing left around the prow via ledges to access the climb.
5.Melancholy Mania85m17 
Pack your antidepressants! The dark chimney corner right of Dynamic Journey. Start as for Janzoon.
1. 15mClimb up and left to a ledge and traverse left around the prow on a ledge system to belay at the foot of the chimney.
2a. 50m 17A less vegetated variant line that takes the rib of rock to the left of the chimney. Climb the shallow corner and cracks on the nose of rock 4m left of the chimney, continuing past a loose blocky section, before moving right and up thin cracks to rejoin the chimney at the belay ledge.
2b. 45mClimb easily up the chimney, taking care with jammed blocks. At 40m, mantle on two large blocks into a cave. Chimney and bridge out around a large chockstone to belay on a large ledge.
3. 20m 16Climb the right hand crack for 3m then move left into the middle one. Continue jamming up, then chimney out past a chockstone and finish through a hole behind some jammed blocks.
K. Bischoff, J. Barnett, A. Wing, Mar 1981. Variant 2a: C. Allen, D. James, Jan 2012.

Great Tier Main Wall: Suicide Sadness Area

The routes on Great Tier main wall all start from the access ramp. To access these routes, take the final right hand fork of the access track and scramble up the gully for 3m to the ramp proper. Routes in the Suicide Sadness area start at the left hand end of the ramp immediately beyond the big step midway along the ramp. The first route, Tsing Gai is depicted on the Zoloft Wall topo, whilst most of the remaining routes are depicted in the topo below.
★ 6.Tsing Gai70m20↓ 
Navigates some spectacularly exposed terrain. Located just left of the prow of Great Tier main wall, between Melancholy Mania and Janzoon. This route originally started from the base of the cliff left of Janzoon Direct in an area now heavily vegetated.
1. 8m 12Climb up and left to a ledge and belay as for Janzoon.
2. 26mUp the hollow flakes in the wall above, following the line to the left of Janzoon to the top of some dubious flakes. Finger-jam the bulge and continue up the crack system until one can make a spectacular step right around the arête to Janzoon Ledge.
3. 30mStep back around the arête and climb the thin crack just left of the arête to the top. Traverse back right to reach the Suicide Sadness rap station (1 x 58m).
K. Bischoff, P. Robinson, Mar 1981. FFA: S. Parsons, P. Bigg, Apr 1981.
★★ 7.Janzoon60m17↓ 
A thoughtful crack and corner climb just right of the prow that is a credible companion line to Suicide Sadness. Pitch 2 and 3 can be combined into one single pitch.
1. 8m 12Up to the ledge on the left and move left in behind the trees to belay. This preliminary pitch helps reduce rope drag.
2. 26m 17Up the hollow flakes above to a ledge below a left-facing corner. Bridge, jam and chimney the corner (a fist size cam is handy) through an overlap to a small roof. Turn this on the right and up to pull over a bulge to a belay ledge (RP anchor placements).
3. 26m 16Move up and right before stepping back out left round the massive flake, then up to gain access to the twin cracks above. Climb the twin cracks before reverting to the left hand line to pull around the bulge and up the groove. Traverse 2m right across the top of a large detached flake to locate the Suicide Sadness rap station (1 x 58m).
I. Lewis, B. Kennedy, Jan 1974.
★ 8.Massacre Madness60m21↓ 
A merger of the first pitches of Janzoon and Suicide Sadness.
1. 34m 21Climb up and through the crux of Suicide Sadness. Instead of exiting right into the base of the corner as for Suicide Sadness, step left and climb the face to the Janzoon belay ledge. Protection is a little problematic, but adequate.
2. 26m 16As for Janzoon pitch 3.
Pete Steane, D. Fife, May 1996.
★★ 9.Suicide Sadness60m18↓ 
The mesmerising steep face and corner midway between Janzoon and Nefertiti. The hollow sounding nature of the rock in the initial 15m detracts from the overall quality but protection is adequate. Several cams from tight hands to fist size are recommended for the corner above. Makes a superb single pitch of 60m, if you're up to carrying a huge rack of gear.
1. 42m 18Climb to the large ledge on the left as for Janzoon. From the right end of the ledge continue straight up, navigating carefully past hollow sounding blocks on your left and up to an overlap. Turn this on the left via thin face moves (crux) and exit onto a ledge at the base of a corner to the right. The fun begins - jam, bridge and layback the superb corner. Finishing through the roof to belay on top of the massive wedged block.
2. 18m 17Climb the twin cracks above before following the right hand crack to a small ledge. Climb the short walls/crack above to finish up the left wall of a short corner to reach the rap station (1 x 58m).
M. Law, S. Parsons, D. Bowman, 1978.
★ 10.Terror Firmer20m25↓ 
A difficult variant finish to Suicide Sadness. Instead of climbing through the roof on Suicide Sadness, under-cling out right below the roof and climb the seam above to access the rap station as for Suicide Sadness.
K. Robinson, P. Robinson, Apr 2000.
★★ 11.Nefertiti60m15↓ 
An old-school classic that will have your calves pumped well before your arms. Start at the obvious chimney/corner near the left end of the Tier and left of the black streaks.
1. 40m 15Bridge the wide chimney (being cautious of the odd loose block) and belay on a ledge to the right equipped with a DBB.
2. 20m 15Shake your way back into the into the chimney and continue up to the massive wedged chockstone. Traverse 4m left to a hakea bush, small ledge and the Suicide Sadness rap station (1 x 58m).
J. Moore, P. Stranger, Feb 1968.
★★ 12.Clouds of Obsession40m22↓ 
The black streaked wall directly across right of Nefertiti offers an excellent pitch. Starts from the ramp at a wall, 3m right of Nefertiti.
1. 30m 22Climb the black streaked wall to belay on a small ledge with a large Hakea bush. Three pins (renewed 2006) help with protection, although other pro is available. Quit while you are ahead and abseil off here (rap station, 1 x 30m) or:
2. 10m 16Step around left and climb the hand crack, or go straight up the wall above the belay to reach a ledge equipped with a DBB (Nefertiti first pitch). Descend from here (1 x 40m). This pitch originally finished up Nefertiti pitch two.
(1) N. Deka, et al. (2) D. Stephenson, J. Otlowski, Apr 1989.
★ 13.Passiona50m15↓ 
Much better than its effervescent and sickly sweet namesake suggests. Recently refurbished, this route takes the big corner just right of Clouds of Obsession. Starts from the ramp above the horizontal tree.
1. 28m 15Climb the corner into the bottomless chimney. Follow the line up the steep corner to easier ground. Continue up the line veering off to the left just before the top of the pillar to a belay ledge and the Clouds of Obsession rap station.
2. 22m 15Step back right and climb the line just right of the vegetation to a steep dual crack system on the right wall. Up to a large hakea bush (yes, that sucker with the sharp needles), then traverse right, up and round the corner for 4m to the Slow Combustion rap station, (1 x 50m) to reach the ramp.
V. Kennedy, J. Moore, Jan 1968.
★ 14.G Pillar52m15↓ 
A popular, airy and exposed pillar with great pro. Follows the arete between Passiona and Slow Combustion. Start from the access the ramp immediately left of Slow Combustion below a clean orange groove just right of the arête.
1. 30m 15Climb up and pull round left into the base of the groove. Up the groove and follow the crackline above to a ledge. Step diffidently out left a metre onto the arête (feels unlikely), then climb the arête to a hakea bush. Climb past the bush and up the crack to belay on the top of the pillar.
2. 22m 15Climb the crack up the wall for 5m to reach a ledge on the arête where the route seamlessly joins Slow Combustion. Continue up Slow Combustion via the jammed blocks and chimney to belay at the rap station (1x 50m).
J. Nermut, T. McKenny, D. Humphries, Dec 2010.
★★ 15.Slow Combustion52m15↓ 
A trade route for those climbing at the grade. Starts on the ramp 3m left of Doldrums at a line through an orange overhang.
1. 32m 15Original start: Up a shallow left facing corner and wall following the line of least resistance, being aware of some dubious rock to pass the overhang on its left. Launch up a steep handcrack making use of holds on the right arête and step right out onto the face when this ends to follow a strong line up a thin crack to a belay ledge.
2. 20m 15Continue up the line to the next ledge. Move left and climb a widening crack past a jammed block and enter a short chimney. Climb the chimney, exiting right at the top onto the belay ledge and rap station. A 50m rap reaches the ramp.
P. Robinson, B. Rathbone, Nov 1979.
★★ 16.Slow Combustion Direct52m16↓ 
1. 32m 161.5m right of Slow Combustion. Up the stacked loose blocks to the middle of the roof. Hand traverse out left on good holds (crux) to join the original route on the face above.
2. 20m 15As for pitch 2 of Slow Combustion
H. Jackson, 1998.
★ 17.Twist in My Sobriety50m18↓ 
Takes a steep eliminate line (the line of the Slow Combustion abseil in fact) up the buttress between Doldrums and Slow Combustion. Start below the large roof to the left of Doldrums, as for the Slow Combustion Direct.
1. 32m 181.5m R of Slow Combustion. Up the stacked loose blocks to the middle of the roof which is climbed direct (crux). Continue up and slightly right onto the steep face above, climbing past a suspect flake to a large ledge.
2. 8m 16Neat climbing up the short wall to a second ledge. From here either finish up Pitch 3, if you have the large gear, or traverse 3m R to the rap anchors on Schizophrenic.
3. 10m 17Up the crack that splits the face to the small overhang. Climb the off-width using the right wall. A couple of large cams (4.5 or 5) help restore some equanimity. Rap off as for Slow Combustion.
Pitches 1 and 2: T. McKenny, A. Beech, Dec 2011, Pitch 3: I. Snape, T. McKenny, Jan 2012.
18.Doldrums65m15↓ 
You'll need plenty of wind in your sails on this route. Starts under a wide crack through a bulge, just left of the big step midway along the ramp and 4m left of Schizophrenic.
1. 22m 15Traverse into the line from the left. Climb the wide crack through the bulge (crux), stepping out left and up the short wall to a ledge with a small clump of cutting grass. Climb the rib above to a ledge with a large clump of cutting grass.
2. 20m 15Climb the chimney onto the wedged chockstone (crux). Continue up the chimney, stepping out to the left, before reverting to the chimney line. Up through a small bulge to belay on a broad ledge (4m left of Schizophrenic's second belay).
3. 23m 14Jam and face climb the left facing corner to reach a pruned needle bush. Continue to a small ledge, then climb the 2m corner until immediately below the scrubline. Traverse right 4m across a sloping ledge to belay at Schizophrenic rap station. Descent (1 x 40m; 1 x 25m).
J. Moore, M. Tillema, May 1968.

Great Tier Main Wall: Blue Meridian Area

Routes on Great Tier main wall all start from the access ramp. Routes in the Blue Meridian area start right of the big step midway along the ramp.
★★ 19.Schizophrenic65m21Þ ↓ 
Takes a line up the middle of the column left of Blue Meridian. Start 3m right of the big step midway along the ramp, at a short corner with a small overhang.
1. 25m 21Tricky start through the overhang leads to pleasant and non-sustained face climbing. 8 FH to DBB.
2. 20m 21Strenuous moves up the pillar to the right, then back left to finish on the next ledge. 7 FH to DBB.
3. 20m 21Move left from the belay and up the black groove, then pleasant face climbing to the top. 9FH to DBB.
Jon Nermut, Dave Humphries (alt), Jan 2012.
★★ 20.Roaring Forties84m15↓ 
A recent makeover has restored a worthy mid-grade classic. The prominent chimney towards the right end of Great Tier main wall, midway between Schizophrenic and Blue Meridian.
1. 38mFrom the ramp at the clump of cutting grass, climb the chimney past a large flake. At 12m, directly below the scrub, move left for 3m, then up the black juggy wall to a short corner. Layback up this and move back right across a ledge into the line. Climb the gutter to belay off some trees immediately below a large leaning chockstone.
2. 46mStep carefully onto the chockstone, climb the thought provoking chimney, continue up the corner and squeeze past two trees to a large ledge that extends leftward. Continue directly up the steep corner above, being mindful of a loose fin of rock wedged into the right wall, to reach a belay ledge. Traverse right for 4m to access the Blue Meridian rap station.
C. E. Rathbone, P. Robinson, 1977.
21.Feeble Fifties124m15 
This route needs to be researched to verify pitch lengths. Start at Roaring Forties.
1. 35mClimb cracks in the wall right of the chimney before traversing left to a belay in Roaring Forties.
2. 25mContinue up for a few metres and take an obvious traverse line right across the face to the next major line.
3. 20mUp the wall via the crack on the left
4. 40mUp the wide chimney awkwardly via scrubby ledges to the top.
Basil Rathbone, P. Robinson, Oct 1981.
22.Shaky Flakes10m18 
On the small wall at the top of Great Tier, above Blue Meridian and Fine Time. Climb the crack system on the wall left of the scrubby corner.
D. Fife, P. Mackenzie, 1983.
★★★ 23.Blue Meridian90m17↓ 
Two quality and varied pitches makes this the most popular 17 on the Pipes. Start at a short vee-groove 5m up the access ramp, directly below some conspicuous horizontal white scabs.
1. 45m 17Climb the vee-groove and the vague line above. Trend right slightly and up the face between the white scabs and an odd mantle, moving up to a ledge. Climb the left edge of large flake, mantle right and continue up to a belay station. Copious small - medium wires protect this pitch (doubles recommended).
2. 45m 17Follow the crack line up and over a thought-provoking bulge to gain a ledge. Up to the next ledge passing a large block on the left. Layback and jam the corner (crux) then continue more easily to a belay ledge and rap station. Rap the route (2 x 45m).
G. Cooper, Pete Steane, Jan 1985.
★ 24.Prime Meridian92m23↓ 
A steep, difficult trad climbing test piece. A direct second pitch alternative to Fine Time that follows the clean line on the upper wall 2m right of Blue Meridian pitch two.
1. 47m 18Climb the first pitch of either Fine Time or Blue Meridian to the belay station.
2. 45m 23Step right from the belay and into the line. Up the clean crack easily to a pedestal, then up to a short crack that leads to the top of a pinnacle. Climb to a ledge on the right with difficulty then left to a steep technical finger crack that leads to a ledge near the top. Belay at the Blue Meridian rap station. Descent (2 x 45m).
K. Robinson, P. Robinson, April 2016.
★ 25.Fine Time92m21↓ 
Previously known by the depressing name 'Slime Time' this now spruced-up climb takes a line 4m right of Blue Meridian and left of the vegetated gully, and involves some interesting climbing. The second pitch ascends the prominent corner on the high buttress that looms over the gully on the upper half of the cliff, 10m right of Blue Meridian.
1. 47m 18Climb the line of cracks and shallow corners directly up the wall and either step left to belay as for Blue Meridian or traverse right and up to belay below a clean flared corner on the high buttress right of Blue Meridian. It is possible to move right earlier on one of several rising traverse lines.
2. 45m 21From the base of the buttress, climb the corner past a thin finger section (crux), then the arête above to belay on a large ledge just below the top of the cliff. Either abseil here from sling anchors or traverse back left 10m on scrubby ledges to reach the Blue Meridian anchors (2 x 45m).
D. Stephenson, N. Deka, 1988.
Just to the right of the climb up to the ramp you can see the bolted arete/prow of Shrapnel. This is covered in the South Central Buttress section.

The Lower Tier

To access the Lower Tier, take the signposted track up to Great Tier. Where the track meets the cliff take the left fork that is signposted to Step Tier.
The following four routes (and a project) start 20m along this track from the Skyfall ledge, which can be accessed either by climbing the short bolted wall (7m grade 14, 4Þ, DBB, possibly the easiest and shortest sports route on the Pipes!), starting directly off the track, or by a vegetated scramble / climb up the corner system on the right side of the short wall.
To descend from the Lower Tier climbs, walk off right down the ramp or rap off where rap stations are provided.
26.Janzoon Direct38m15↓ 
Some might argue that this route is nothing more than a tottering pile of choss, in spite of the pleasant climbing encountered in places. Be sure to check your life insurance cover!
1. 23m 15Up the corner crack system at the left end of the Skyfall ledge, choosing your holds with care to avoid disturbing any of the suspect architecture. Just below the level of the first rooflet on the right, traverse 2m left across one crack line and into the next. Up this crack to just below a Hakea tree, then traverse back right 2m into the original line and up this with care to belay on a ledge.
2. 15m 10Traverse left for 4m past a body chimney into a damp and scrubby gully. Up the gully, then back right onto a ledge and up to belay on top of the large block. To descend, traverse right 4m to the Skyfall rap station (1 x 40m).
I. Lewis, B. Kennedy, Jan 1974.
27.Project 
The wall between Janzoon Direct and Thirsty Thirties.
28.Thirsty Thirties33m 20↓  
Climb up the the short, thin crack in the middle of the wall for a few metres (crux). Bridge up the easy chimney above to belay on the ledge on the right. Descent as for Skyfall (33m to ledge, or 40m to ground).
D. Stephenson, D. Bruce, Apr 1989.
★★ 29.Skyfall33m20↓ 
Right of Thirsty Thirties is a rearing, overhanging wall bristling with rooves. Bold, steep and sustained, this route finishes on the ledge at the start of pitch 2 of Janzoon.
Starting at the DBB 2m right of the Thirsty Thirties crack, climb up and right until it is possible to hand traverse back left under the roofs, avoiding the booming flake on the wall above, to an overhanging layback crack. Layback through the roof, and follow the steep incipient line up with spaced, small protection to a large open corner below a massive roof. Up the left hand arête to an exhilarating hand traverse back right under the roof to a ledge below another open book corner. Thin bridging up the corner to a runner placement and welcome jugs. Finish up and left to the top of the wall and DBB. Rap: 33m to ledge, or 40m to ground, or continue on Janzoon.
T. McKenny, P. Robinson, April 2013.
★ 30.Quantum of Solace29m2316Þ ↓ 
Excellent steep climbing up the wall and through the roof right of Skyfall. From the DBB, traverse right and climb hidden wall at far right-hand end of Skyfall ledge, then blast up the middle of the face and through the powerful roof passing a DBB to gain a welcome rest ledge.
Ponder your position, then step left over sickening void and onto the thrilling hanging arête. Up to DBB.
If you don't fancy the intimidating step into the final arête, finishing at the DBB above the roof makes a shorter more sustained route (Solace, 20m 22).
O Gervasoni, T McKenny, May 2013.
To the right of the short bolted access wall is a heavily vegetated gully system. This is the location of the now unclimbable direct starts to Nefertiti, Passiona and the lost climb of Geriatric. Right of the next low point, about 10m left from the turn off from the Great Tier track, is a clean grey wall with several excellent short routes, all in close proximity.
31.Procrastination 35m17 
A subtle mix of old school and new wave climbing, this route is much more entertaining than it looks. Start at the right facing corner in the cleared space behind the copse of trees, at the left-hand end of the wall. Climb the crack, step left at the top, then straight up the left hand weakness to the top of an orange fin of rock and the indecisions of Procrastination Wall. When you have made your mind up, climb up and slightly right (crux) to the corner above. Finish over the block, topping out on the ramp to belay near some horizontally growing vegetation. Walk off down the ramp.
T. McKenny, O. Gervasoni, A. Beech, Apr. 2013
32.The Eagle20m18 ↓  
The wall and arête right of Procrastination and just left of Kabling, gives an enjoyable steep climb. Start midway between the two. Boulder the thin face, then climb the shallow corner and finger cracks directly up to the hakea bush. Climb the overhanging arête, moving right on to the wall near the top to the DBB. Rap or lower off from here (20m).
O. Gervasoni, P. Robinson, Feb 2017.
★★ 33.Kabling20m171Þ ↓ 
Well protected with a pulse-raising overhang. Micro cams are useful. Start at the wall beneath the prominent overhang and boulder up past the bolt, trending left to a ledge. Climb the corner to the roof and swing out right and up through the overhang to a welcome rest. Follow the slabby face above to a lower-off (20m).
O. Gervasoni, B. Ikin, Mar 2012.
★ 34.Master Class20m182Þ ↓  
A fitting companion line to Kabling with potential for learning. Start a metre right of Kabling. Climb up and over to large block and take a direct line up the steep wall past 2 bolts and straight on up through the roof to the small tea tree. Step left and finish up the right-hand edge of the wall to the DBB. Rap or lower off from here (20m).
T. McKenny and B. Bull, Feb 2017.
35.Elementary Jam24m14↓ 
Unearthed, this now conspicuous crack is found 2m right of Kabling in the same cleared alcove. Climb the classic hand crack to a ledge at 5m. Continue up the hand crack to where it steepens, then up the corner to exit right behind the Zephyr pillar. Chimney up behind the pillar to DBB. Rap off (24m) down the gully or exit via the ramp.
P. Robinson, K. Robinson, Sep 2014.
★ 36.The Trump Tower22m207Þ ↓ 
Like all the other Trump Towers, all the action and grief is at the very top. Follows the arête and tower right of Elementary Jam. Scramble up the blocks at the bottom then follow the arête past bolts straight up to the top and DBB. Rap off bolts on the wall behind the finish (24m).
B. Bull and T. McKenny, B. Maddison, S. Scott, Valentines Day, Feb 2017.
37.Zephyr 24m15↓ 
Originally climbed as the first pitch to Doldrums, this pitch is worthy of inclusion in its own right now it has had a clean and tidy up. Start directly above the fork in the track where it first meets the cliff. Climb to the top of the blocks, then up the line in the steep face on small holds. Up between the two rocks, chimney up behind the pillar to DBB. Rap off (24m) down the gully or walk off down the ramp. The lead is unfortunately marred now due to the close proximity of bolts on Trump Tower.
Chris (Basil) Rathbone, P. Robinson, R. Rolls, 1979.
38.Eddie24m16 
Worthwhile. After a steep start, this route remains close to the arête the whole way. Start 1m right of Zephyr and left of the steep gully. Climb the bulge a metre right of Zephyr to a ledge. Pass the first rooflet on the right and the next rooflet to the left. Move back right, continue up the arête and onto a ledge. Finish directly up the clean arête keeping well away from the gully. At the top, scramble up for 3m to belay from tea trees on the ramp. Descend via the ramp.
P. Robinson, C. (Basil) Rathbone, Jan. 2017.
39.Scrambled Legs20m16 
Where the Great Tier track meets the cliff, take the right hand fork for 5m to the base of a short wall. Climb the wall to a ledge, then up a short face and directly up the steep buttress (crux) on small holds, RPs handy, to a mantle and easier ground. The route tops out directly under the start of Schizophrenic. Walk off via the ramp.
P. Robinson, Chris (Basil) Rathbone, Sep 2013.
 
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8 Comments

  1. Danger Darren

    What ever happened to mixed protection on rock climbs? Now routes that are written up as trad routes such as Skyfell have by my count 10 bolts that could be clipped on them, I dont think this is traditional climbing.

  2. Al Adams

    It was retrobolted some time ago by the first ascentionist. But we failed to amend the guide. Thanks for the feedback

  3. Danger Darren

    Al because someone is the first ascentionist does not justify retro bolting traditional climbing. This seems to be a common misconception among the older generation of rock climbers, anyone punching bolts into a cliff that doesn't need them is committing an act of vandalism (not vandalism in a civil disobedience kind of way, more of the clear felling old growth forest sense, once you sink the bolts into the cliff the experience is changed or lost forever). I don't think this is the case with Skyfell, my comment was that quantum of solace and the slab below both routes do not need bolts as they can be easily protected, mixed routes are used to be the norm why has this changed? This is defiantly not the worst of the poor bolting decisions made in the last 10 years (smile)

    1. Doug Bruce

      Agree with all you said DD, apart from the "defiantly" bit.

      1. Danger Darren

        If I could spell I would have a lot more to say...

  4. Phil Robinson

    Do you mean the bolts of ‘Qantum of Solace’ are too close to Skyfall lessening the trad. experience? A pity if that is the case, I thought Qantum was a separate climb. There are many good sports routes on the Pipes. Unfortunately, there are bolts too close to a few trad. climbs. e.g. Kacktus , Great Bitch, Zephyr, Roaring Forties, Pugnacious, Skyrocket, Skyfall? This spoils it for those wanting a genuine gripping trad. experience. In the quest for more and more consumer friendly, safe sports climbs let’s hope the gun wielders spare our classic trad. routes. Thankfully this has generally been the case in the past. As for bold new trad. routes on the Pipes, unfashionable at the present time, I wonder if they are a thing of the past. There will be little unbolted rock before too long.

  5. Owen Gervasoni

    As the first asentionist of QofS I added the bolts to Quantum of Solace (started with 3 bolts from memory) and the initial slab to get to the base of QoS and Skyfall. Decisions I though were appropriate at the time. Im curious, ill have to get back up there and do those routes again. Entirely possible I got it wrong. 

  6. Danger Darren

    Owen you didn't do anything that is out of character with the current state of the crag, my fight is with incrementalism, not you!! Phil I mean exactly what you say and more, the experience of rock climbing is more nuanced that simply climbing rocks for me, its more about being outside with the birds and trees and people and moving in a way that feels right and feels like it fits into the landscape and doesn't change it. The things that seem to be taking away from this are climbers cutting down trees to "clean" routes and installing lower offs on the top of trad routes and not really seeing the beauty of the place but rather seeing another route that they can bolt and put a star on and feel good about. Rap anchors that remove tat are a great thing, but every route does not need them. I have the feeling that "development" will keep happening and many of the beautiful things about climbing on the pipes with be lost forever if the way of thinking about development does not change.

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