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Blog from November, 2017
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Found a bunch of draws under The Blind leading the crippled at Waterworks this morning (29/11/2017).
If you know the owner, drop a message here and I'll get them back to you.
cheers
Cam
Petzl bouldering mat for sale $200
Phone Toby on 0437940585 (do not reply here)
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Climb Tasmania $20 other books $10 each
Phone Toby on 0437940585 (do not reply here)
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Hey climbers,
I'm searchig for climbing partners to climb outdoors. About me:My name is Tristan, I'm from Germany and came to Australia to climb as much as possible, i onsight about 22.(same as my age) I'm in Hobart for now. I'd love it if some local climbers coud show me around. Sadly i can't offer more than my company and a small sport rack.
If you feel like playing guide give me a ring or message (0439811216).
Cheers
Hi All,
just letting you know that a guide to Hidden Zawn, a cliff developed since mid-2017, is now available and incorporated in the Cloudy Bay guide. There are many more routes to be done, so please update this guide accordingly!
Enjoy!
cheers,
Ben
More price drops! See individual items for details
As a preamble, the gear that I am selling is all in good condition. Some of it is has been around for a while - quite a while in some instances - but it has all been looked after well. None of the cams or wires have frayed bits. Slung nuts have had their slings replaced periodically as needed. Quickdraw dogbones are all in good condition as are any slings that are listed. People who know me will attest that I look after my gear well and dispose of anything that is dodgy. I've tried to price everything reasonably in the hope that I won't have to field endless offers. However, if you have any general questions or think I'm wildly optimistic about the worth of any items please contact me on douglascharlesbruceatgmaildotcom. If you're genuinely interested in a particular item and want a closer look I can send more detailed pictures if you don't live locally. Just send me your email address.
Any gear that is not sold locally will be subject to postage to be paid by the purchaser.
There's still a lot of good stuff here, go on ... you can always use another cam ...
Photos attached
Camming Devices
all with dedicated biners, mostly colour-coded. See photo below.
BD Camelots. All of the cable-stemmed cams are gone except for the 0.3. Price drop on all of the SS-stemmed cams from $55 to $50 - or make it $45 each without a biner -
0.30 x : 1 $60SOLD- 0.40 x 2: $50
- 0.50 x 1: $50
- 0.75 x 1: $50
- Size 1 x 1: $50
Size 2 x 1:$50SOLD
Wild Country Flexible Friends:
These babies aren't so fashionable in Downunderland nowadays, but are in excellent condition and slide in beautifully.
1.5 x 2: $55 each Price drop: $50 each or both for $90 or make it $40 for each without the biners - or $75 for the pair without the biners -
Aliens:
Only the Green left: take it away for $50 - or make it $40 without the biner
This is an original Alien, made in the USofA and regarded as better made than the newer Fixe "Aliens". As Alex said when he walked away with the other two, "You just can't get these anywhere."
Wires
DMM Wallnuts: ALL SOLD
Metolius Curved Nuts SOLD
20 Miscellaneous Wires (mostly Wild Country Rocks)
$5 each (except for the big HB nut - that's $7) or $90 for the lot
Nuts on Cord ALL SOLD
Miscellaneous biners
There are 36 of these. Everything from a couple of beautiful, weightless Climbing Technology biners to BD Livewire biners to hoary old Bonatti Kong biners and plenty in between. If you know you're climbing gear you'll know what you're looking at. Prices range from $5 to $10. Open to offers on bunches. Make bid and I'll make a call, I just can't be bothered working out package pricing for this mixed bag.
NB: all the older $5 biners are gone. There are now 26 biners left. Prices from $7 for the likes of standard BD straight gate or wire gate biners to $9 for super lightweight Climbing Technologies or super bombproof BD Hotwire biners.
Screw gate BINERS: ALL SOLD
BD Hollowpoint Pack
20 litre capacity. Tough. You can haul this sucker and it won't rip apart.
$35
... and that's all. For the moment.
I recently got asked a question about shortening the length of U-bolts when used in really hard rock like dolerite. This is based on the reply:
I'm REALLY glad you asked that question ... because I don't want to be clipping short U's!! ;)
So, the short answer is no; don't make them shorter. What follows is a longer answer to explain my thinking. It's bound to say lots of stuff you know already so apologies for that.
Firstly, reliability is a more important issue for glue-in anchors than average (or "expected") strength. So, controlling the rogue factors with adhesion are critical: the right glue; good mixing; good hole cleaning, enough notching, good cleaning (de-greasing) of the steel surfaces; reduction of air-pockets in the glue. That's why I've become something of a preacher on those issues!!
Reliability comes into the length question because length mitigates most of those issues (even if it doesn't eliminate them). So, you may be able to get enough strength in dolerite with 20 mm embedment but you've left no margin for things not being perfect - an air-pocket, or uncleaned dust, might tip it into the too-weak-to-work zone. Length also helps with imperfect rock (and lots of dolerite isn't perfect).
Moving on to some specifics about dimensions. The figure below illustrates the kind of U's I have made and which, I think, represents the dimensions of most U's in Tas (esp on dolerite and granite). I'm not sure, but I think these broad dimensions have also been used for Sand River? [I know OG and BM have; and I also hear the Stuart Scott et al have made them slightly longer, out of 215 mm rods].
Above: U made from 200 mm length of 316 stainless. Wood background shows embedment into the rock (50-60 mm*). Notches are ground into the last 45 mm of each leg. This provides at least 10 mm* of notch-free rod near the surface of the rock (to reduce risk of SSC corrosion).
* These dimensions vary due to irregularities when bending but the above spec guarantees at least 10 mm notch-free embedment and 50 mm total embedment.
Let's consider making it 10 mm "shorter". We would reduce both legs by 10 mm so we would make it out of 180 mm of rod (10% saving) and the holes have gone from 70 mm to 60 mm (14% saving). To preserve the 10 mm notch-free zone we would need to shorten the notched zone form 45 mm to 35 mm (22% shorter!!) which is starting to "feel" dodgy. Going to 20 mm shorter legs and we have a 20% steel saving but have lost nearly half our notched length! With modern drills it is easy enough to do the drilling, and the saved steel isn't worth much, so my view is that the economies aren't there.
The above begs the alternative question of whether Sand River U's should be LONGER? I have only done one route there but was surprised at how easy it was to drill the hole and how hard is was to clean it. My "feel" is that, so long as the holes are cleaned really well, that the "standard" U dimensions above are still OK. This is because it "feels" hard to conceive of a failure mode that doesn't take more than 7 kN to achieve (there is still a lot of either rock or glue that needs to fail). It would be nice to have that guess tested though. Nothing beats empiricism!
Found a pair of rock boots (new) out at Foucault Buttress on the Panopticon, Sand River, last Friday, 17 Nov. Contact me through Thesarvo for return.
Cheers
Tony
On a whim, I did a search for all the starred routes that were done in 1967 and 1968, and are having the 50 year aniversary of their FA.
Here they are, collect them all!
First Ascent in 1967:
| Stars | Name | Length | Grade | Area |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| * | Scimitar Spur | 500m | 12 | |
| *** | Fiddlesticks | 55m | 14 | |
| * | Andromeda | 26m | 14 | |
| * | Claret Corner | 109m | 15 | |
| ** | Faust | 85m | 16 | |
| ** | Skyline Major | 90m | 16 | |
| * | Breaker Spur | 82m | 16 | |
| * | Chancellor | 55m | 16 | |
| * | The Plenipotentiary | 155m | 16 | |
| ** | Excalibur Direct (ED) | 8m | 17 | |
| * | Double Column Central | 77m | 17 | |
| * | The Cordoban | 93m | 17 | |
| ** | Ophthalmia | 81m | 18 | |
| * | Firebrand | 80m | 20 |
First Ascent in 1968:
| Stars | Name | Length | Grade | Area |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| * | Twisted Towers and South-East Summit |
| 13 | |
| * | Fleur-de-lis | 210m | 14 | |
| ** | Bismark | 25m | 15 | |
| ** | Nefertiti | 60m | 15 | |
| * | Passiona | 50m | 15 | |
| *** | Hood | 30m | 16 | |
| *** | Tierry le Fronde | 150m | 16 | |
| * | The Melbourne Variant | 370m | 16 | |
| * | Waterloo Road | 310m | 16 | |
| *** | Centaur | 48m | 17 | |
| *** | The Chimes of Freedom | 250m | 17 | |
| * | Pooh Corner | 72m | 17 | |
| *** | Icarus | 78m | 20 | |
| ** | The Shield | 55m | 20 | |
| * | Firebrand | 80m | 20 | |
| ** | Bismark | 100m | 24 |
Check it out at: North Sister. Thanks to Gerry for putting it up.
Heyo!
I’ll be in Hobart Nov 18-20 with a rack, a rope and lots of climbing psych! No car at the moment but I would be willing to get a rental. Anybody willing to show a visitor some local rock (cape Raoul looks awesome!)? I’m 28, have been climbing for about 10 years and lead up to about 25 on gear. Happy to climb easier or belay/second harder.
Cheers!
Jon
Hi there
I've been told that someone was bolting the upper wall right of Ophthalmia and left of Peacepipe the other day. I climbed a route up there a few years ago but it seems to have missed making the guide... I found the original write up here though: http://www.thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/2013/01/07/New+Routes+and+News+2013?focusedCommentId=294715394#comment-294715394
Perhaps what we climbed a few years ago didn't get put into the guide because of the note I made about the direct start (which has since been cleaned and top-roped - just waiting to be climbed, possibly with a few bolts of its own... still undecided on that one). Considering it is missing from the guide, I just thought I'd make sure that the existing trad route isn't in the same place as this new bolted/mixed route.
If anyone wants to talk to me about this directly without posting here, send me an email. I've added my email address to the About Me section of my profile on thesarvo for now (note: I'll be out of contact for up to a week from now though)
Cheers
Isaac Lethborg has climbed an amazing new route at South Sister, and it is without doubt, the steepest dolerite route I've ever seen in Tasmania. It's called Out of The Shadows (25) and is located at a new crag called Pole 62. Discovered by Gerry Narkowicz and bolted in a joint effort with Isaac, Gerry sieged it many times before giving up and handing it over to Isaac for the first ascent. A rope hanging from the lip hangs 15m clear, and the climbing is characterised by large holds on fiercely overhanging ground, with a pronounced crux at the lip. The rock quality is superb, though the cliff looks a bit black and ugly.
The route is worthy of a visit when in the South Sister area, or on the way out to Teapot Rocks, or even just passing through on the way to Freycinet.
On the approach to Teapot Rocks the good forestry road turns into a rough 4WD track. At this junction, follow the powerline easement on the right for about 400m to telegraph pole number 62. In the vicinity of this pole, locate a yellow tagged and cairned track on the right. Follow this for 10 minutes up to the crag and climb the fully bolted, gobsmacking central line.Pole 62.jpg
