Climbing partner,

If anyone is keen for a climb on saturdays in southern tassie shoot me a message or give me a buzz my availability can be a bit fluctuating but I’m always keen to try fit something in, low to mid 20’s, 0438081020

cheers Dan 

Fruehauf

can someone tell me if freuhauf is climbable or is it still weeping from the last lot of rain we had?  And if so is anyone keen for a couple hours there tomorrow around lunchtime? Let me know! Cheers Dan 

So great to see the continued exploration of sand river, the area that seemingly continues to gift with the hard work of so many, but does it not seem questionable in suggesting that a certain feature would be desecrated by adding bolts to it? Sand river is unquestionably a premier Tasmanian sport climbing crag  so  if  there is a line that can be climbed free by adding bolts to it surely this is a good thing? 

Loose bolt on the Sapphire Rose

Hi all,

Just a heads up for anyone heading to Bare Rock. We were on the Sapphire Rose on Saturday and noticed that the first bolt in the traverse on P1 has a very loose nut and hanger. We didn't have anything to tighten it with so its still only finger tight. There are good small/medium cam placements  in the overlap just above the bolt.

Scott

For the last 43 years it has been assumed that Henry Barber introduced grade 23 to Australia, officially Insomnia at Frog being the first one...though Kama Sutra at Araps on the same trip is harder. In researching a new book I'm writing on the history of Tasmanian climbing, I have discovered that Ian Lewis had free climbed Albatross at Lowdina near Hobart in 1974, before Hot Henry came in 1975. The guidebook credits Lewis with the first ascent, but gives the first free ascent to Henry, as it was reported that Lewis had a point of aid (rest) on his ascent. In recent interviews for the book, both Ian Lewis and his belayer Lyle Closs are adamant that it was done free. Albatross was the only route Henry Barber fell off on his Australian trip. I've been on it, and not many would argue with grade 24..its desperate. So there you go... Ian Lewis did the first grade 23 in Australia in 1974.

Top rope accreditations

Hey,

I am looking to get some accreditations for taking youth rock climbing, and was wondering if anyone knew the best person I could get in contact with?

I have indoor rock climbing certificates, but want to get top rope outdoor and abseiling certs.

I’m an avid climber just need to get the right paperwork so I can take the youth out legally.

Cheers.

Hi Every one
Just letting people who do not already know, that it is a good idea after heavy rain to let the Sand Stone dry out before climbing on it.  

This link below is really worth reading and passing on.

https://www.thoughtco.com/how-to-assess-wet-rock-before-climbing-756021

 

 

 

Star Factory Access

Just letting people know that the access lines to the Star Factory have been removed.

Please take care when scrambling up and down.

no cable car rally

Hey Good people of thesarvo,

 

As per the heading I wish to draw everyones attention to the upcoming 'no cable car' rally Sunday 6th of May in the Cascade gardens. I appreciate this is a very divisive issue, but as climbers and users of the Mountain it will effect each and every one of us so speak now or forever whinge on internet forums. Hope to see you there, or better still on a stellar mountain climb uneffected by cable cars for many years to come.

hugs or firm hand shakes if thats more your thing

Sam de Zoete

 

cablecar.jpg

Totem Pole

Finally discovered the Totem Pole, albeit in a support position to Andy Kuylaars' near flash of both pitches of the Deep Play/Back side free route.

Wonderful time.

I built Roger's model, and tried to update the lines on it–wondering if Roger has any interest in creating a updated version–took me a while to figure out the Gallegos line, but knowing those guys, and knowing the lines they find and climb, I think I see the way they aided their route (if indeed they went to the top).

Also wondering if people have climbed the original route, on aid, all clean.  Not climbing 27 at this time ((wink)), I was thinking it might be fun to give my dusty aiders a go in that wild cavernous gap in the ocean.

Photo by Derek Cheng

Hi everyone,

 

I've just arrived here in Tasmania and I would like to find someone or a group of climbers to hang out with.

 

My plans are not definite except that I am going to do the overland track the 14th of March and the 6 following days.

 

I feel comfortable climbing grade 20/21 on sport routes but I am also interested to try trad.

 

I have some gear and a rope cause my partner was with me for one week already. We were on our way to climb the Moai but her belay device has decided to land somewhere between the rocks down there !

 

If you have got time for a climb or a beer I'll be around Hobart this weekend and probably on the east coast after the 20th of March.

 

I am definitely keen to climb great Tassie walls.

 

You can reach me at this number 0448697875.

 

Cheers,

 

Justin

 

 

 

Live premiere, silence 9c

For those that are interested, the live premiere of the route silence, Adam Ondra  sending the worlds first 9c in flatanger, Norway will be tomorrow morning Saturday 24th February at 7.00am 

link below,  get up early and get a ton of psych for the wet weekend

 

if it doesn't work you can just YouTube silence premiere and you will find it

In case you missed the front page of today’s Mercury, please read http://www.themercury.com.au/news/politics/cableway-company-gains-approval-to-drill-on-mt-wellington-just-before-state-election-is-called/news-story/87880930dd7d8bf7ec475afce227d9b1 

This secret approval for test drilling on the mountain raises serious questions about how development is approved in this state under the Hodgman government.

It also begs several other questions:

Is it OK for a senior government minister of Mr Gutwein’s experience to approve a decision of this magnitude, one day out from his government assuming a caretaker role?

How is it that Premier Hodgman stated that he had no knowledge of the decision? Is it Mr Gutwein acting unilaterally? Why is Mr Hodgman unable to control his deputy?

Why wasn’t there a media release announcing this approval? What’s behind Mr Gutwein’s attempt at secrecy?

What are the chances of a consultative and transparent development approval process in this state if this covert approval is an example of how things will be run if the Liberal Party win another term of government?

I am seriously concerned about the implications of this decision and the manner in which it was executed.

Al Adams

 

 

 

Has anyone come across two Frenchies at the crags recently? They `borrowed' a rope, 14 draws, 2 harnesses, screwgates and belay device from me about a month ago, and their phone isnt answering. Maybe they've skipped the state.

I got the email below from Alister Clark.

Please respect the track closures. You can get to any of the cliffs by heading up a track prior to the closure and going along across higher up.

 

-------

 

 

Dear Climbers,

 

 

We are currently experiencing difficulties with some climbers attempting to gain access into closed work sites on the Organ Pipes track.

 

There is strictly NO ACCESS permitted to ANY tracks beyond the closure points on the Organ Pipes track.

 

There is a minimum $159 fine for entering the closed work site from any point. All track workers are fully authorised to maintain track closures.

 

Access to the Organ Pipes climbing routes is permitted via the northern climbers track only. Access to southern routes is via the informal track directly at the base of the Organ Pipes only.

 

Could you please inform your members accordingly.

 

Further information and updates are available at:

 

https://www.hobartcity.com.au/Projects/Great-short-walk-rejuvenation

 

https://www.facebook.com/CityofHobartOfficial/

 

Works are currently on time to be completed by the end of February, at which time full access will again be available.

 

Thanks

 

Al

 

Alister Clark

Bushland Assets Officer | Parks and City Amenity