Hello. Do Tasmanian climbers have an association – not a club – that tackles climbing access issues in national parks, rserves and forests? If so, could you tell me its name and how I get in touch with it, please?

Victorian climbers have just launched the ACA V (Australian Climbing Association (Victoria)). It works like the ACA Q (Australian climbing Association (Queensland)). Both are fully independent associations, formed in each state, run by state climbers for all climbers, fighting access issues in their state. Apparently, the meeting at which the ACAV was launched last night, in Natimuk, was an outstanding success.

If you don’t have an association in Tasmania dealing with access issues, now is a great time to start. If you want some assistance in how to get started, contact the ACAQ president (Dave Reeve) or ACAV president (Mike Tomkins). Here is the ACAQ website http://www.qldclimb.org.au/. (I think ACAV website is nearly ready to go live)

A lot of the essential work for a website, online membership, databases, and a Facebook page, has already been done by both these state associations. And I hear discussions have started in New South Wales for the same thing (Although I’m not sure where that’s up to.)

You can more easily find the “Australian Climbing Association Qld” and “Australian Climbing Association Victoria” Facebook pages than I can post links to those pages (sorry, I did try)

SHORT SUMMARY OF WHAT IT’S ABOUT: each state Association studies the state legislation, policies and government processes that directly affect where we can and can’t climb in national parks and other public lands. This includes cultural heritage law, National Parks law, law governing how bureaucrats manage parks, civil liability legislation, and whatever else pops up on the radar. When necessary, submissions are made to state government to change laws (e.g. the ACAQ was successful in getting the Nature Conservation Act 1991 changed for climbers), and discussions are had with land managers (for example, the ACAQ successfully reasoned with a plantation licensee to keep bouldering access open in Passchendaele State Forest)...and there’s a heap more big access issues that are either resolved or being worked on right now, including working with traditional owners regarding cultural heritage issues. 

Think about joining the fight if you don’t already have an incorporated access association for Tassie. Talk to the presidents of the ACAQ and ACAV - they are unpaid volunteers whom I believe are only too willing to help. The more states on board, each with their own association, the bigger the presence. 

Chris Williams

0403-433-057

Hi All. Left my favourite locking carabiner at top of new bolted 18 on Main Wall. Irreplacable nowadays. I'll  buy you a nice beer! Nick Hancock 0438 368657

A bigger issue re: Tasman Peninsula climbing looms. And that is: why aren't more people climbing @ Cape Pillar ? Or Cape Raoul ? 

Like Cape Hauy there is a first-class walking track access to all Three Capes. The road to Fortescue Bay is no longer a vehicle and soul destroying experience. If all that still troubles you then try an arrangement with Bob Pennicott for a drop-off.

Obviously the issue with guide-info is still risky. And the notion of "the scariest sea cliff in the universe" still pervades. Nik Deka described the Chasm Wall as a "shitty little route" in the company of many. He is most welcome to go there and reinvigorate the magic. By foot. Himself.

Successive governments have invested about $50,000,000 in resolving the access issues.

It really is all up to you. Cape Pillar is only a little friendly cliff.  Best Wishes, Dildo

Missing Rope at Mt Hobbs

A couple of ropes have gone missing from under cracked boulder at Mt Hobbs. 

 

Can they be returned (or tell me where they are humphriesdj at gmail dot com)?

Hi, I come in peace  !

I too have a box of slides Kodachrome64 of the Basil and Dildo micro-epic June 6 - 8 1977.

It would be nice to bequeath these to archive. Oh, and the Chasm Wall stuff, photos, slides, diary notes, Peter Jackson B&W photo (real good) with the Original Route marked (vital route guide !)

Would like assist in providing further info from my archive and other ideas.

Hello again ! The Candlestick thing is on again. Basil and dildo made the 2nd ascent of the North Face on June 8 1976. Good luck

Theft at Mount Wellington

On Sunday February 24th between 4.30-7pm, my partner’s vehicle was broken into and stolen while we were parked at the climber’s carpark. It was found torched and abandoned in a nearby cemetery. Apparently this kind of theft has been rare in recent years, but it wouldn’t hurt to be extra vigilant with your valuables up there (or anywhere, really.)

ADVENTURES AT THE EDGE OF THE WORLD - the epic story of Tasmanian Rockclimbing

An exciting new book will be ready for print by the middle of the year - a history of Tassie climbing. Coffee table size and a monstrous 500 pages, it is jam packed with over 600 photos and epic stories of first ascents and adventures of pioneer climbers over the decades. From the first rock climb in 1914 to the present day, each decade has a history section, adventure segment with stories authored by the first ascensionists, and a culture section with interviews of key climbers.

Simon Bischoff has contributed his portfolio of outstanding modern action shots and landscape images, making this an inspiring celebration of Tassie's climbing history.

If you are psyched to see this book go to print, Simon and I would be grateful for your financial support in a crowd fund appeal which will happen in a few months time.

AdventureAtTheEdgofTheWorld-Mockup2.jpg

AdventureAtTheEdgofTheWorld-CoverSpread1.jpg

Thanks so much. Gerry Narkowicz

Lost gear- Mt Wellington

Lost a rope tarp on Sunday the 4th February near Pegagsus on the Northern Wall. Contact 0457595754. Cheers

Hillwood Closed

Hillwood has been shut by the landowner due to climbers disrespecting the landowner's wishes. He placed a sign up last week closing access due to the total fire ban, which was fair enough. When the sign disappeared a few days later, it was assumed that the cliff was open again and that the farmer had removed it. It was in fact some other persons who removed it, either climbers or bogans we don't know. Either way, it was the straw that broke the camel's back for him. He is sick of climber's sense of entitelment to the place, where he gets nothing in return, no thanks or a bottle of wine every now and then as a token of appreciation, people going in with a chainsaw to clear tracks without his permission, people running commercial climbing groups without his permission and making financial gain off his land, and he is also very stressed about legal liability.

This is non-negotiable on his part for the time being, at least until easter.  I have arranged to meet him after Easter to review the situation, so please don't anyone else contact him..he is seriously pissed. But until then, its trespassers prosecuted at Hillwood.

New Boulders on Kunanyi

Hey everyone,

I did a couple new problems on the summit yesterday. I've written them all up. If any of them were already climbed, but unrecorded - please let me know the name and year so I can update.

 

Cheers,

 

M

Lost gear: Fortescue Bay

Blue 70L Osprey Pack left at Fortescue Bay campground. Hasn’t been handed in to caretakers, but is not where it was left.

Contains miscellaneous climbing gear including Black Diamond harness and helmet, Petzl Volta 9.2 60m rope, assorted hardware and protection, rain jacket, sunglasses and first aid kit. If anyone knows the whereabouts of the pack please reply to this post, contact 0427300480 or hand in to campground caretakers. Thanks

New Routes 2019

Hey Tas climbing folk - hope you're all doing well. Not quite sure how to get this directly onto the new route page as my Forum link doesn't work, so here it is. These are a few note worthy routes done whilst in Tas. I've finally managed to work out how to edit and have added these to the guide pages, but do not know how to update the photo/topos etc (see Tetragrammaton photo topo).


Tetragrammaton Buttress - Freycinet

Fodiator   43m  27    ***      (Andrew [Squib] Cubbon & Lizzy Oh, July 2017)

An excellent route. Quality climbing on impeccable rock, in one of the most exposed positions at Freycinet.

Start as for ‘Exocet’:

  1. 18m   18 - Climb up No More Mr Nice Guy to the left traverse line, but instead continue up and then build a gear belay at a comfortable stance in the corner.
  2. 25m   27 – Continue up the steep arête of Exocet until it reaches the roof. Instead of traversing right, place some bomber gear and blast straight up just right of the arête.

After some tricky moves, the difficulty eases and is protected by good RPs and wires. Move left and up the arête.

 

All gear was placed on lead after top rope/self-belay rehearsals (full rack from RPs & small cams to no. 3 Camelot). An old carrot bolt was removed prior to the ascent to provide a pure trad route on the second pitch. For a more pumpy excursion, but with bolts, climb Garry’s excellent route ‘Down Under’ (25), as an alternative first pitch.

 

 

 

Lego Buttress – Freycinet

 

Let Loose the Kraken   40m   23?   **         (Andrew [Squib] Cubbon & Toby ??????? Feb 2018)

 

A fantastic line of two varied, but equally difficult pitches (if you like that sort of thing!).

 

Start 10m right of ‘Lego’, in the obvious corner with left to right rising crack, capped by a large roof.

 

  1. 18m   23 – Climb the finger crack in the corner up to the 3m roof. Plug some gear and monkey around to the ledge on the left. Catch your breath and continue up the crack on the right to large ledge. Traverse left to belay on the spacious ledge below the ominous crack above.
  2. 22m   23 – Up the striking crack, which starts as hands and finishes as a squeeze chimney. A great fight!

All gear was placed on lead. Top pitch was rehearsed on top rope/self-belay. Gear required: from small cams to no.6 (thanks Andrew Geeves) and big bros (thanks Andrew Martin). More big stuff would have been good, but sane enough with 1 x no.6 and 2 x big bros.

(Climbing on the top pitch felt like grade 27 to me, but people who can actually climb off-width’s, like Toby, reckon more like 23! 2nd ascensionist can confirm grade….)

 

 

Hazards Main Wall

 

Full Sail Ahead   36m   22   *      (Andrew [Squib] Cubbon & Isaac Lethborg, Oct 2017)

 

A good line with good climbing on nice rock, but the second half is very poorly protected and higher up falling does not become an option, hence the lack of another star. Could be top-roped from the ‘Full Sail’ anchors.

 

Start as for ‘Full Sail’:

 

  1. 36m    22 – Climb the straight line of ‘Full Sail’ without moving left at any point. Difficult moves over the bulge with poor pro leads to a delicate, un-protectable corner. Tip toe your way up this with increasing trepidation until your first gear just below the anchors.

Ascent was done ground up, placing what little gear there was on lead. Slightly terrifying!

 

 

Carp Bay Point Pinnacle

Three routes were climbed on the obvious ‘pinnacle’ – a large boulder capped with another boulder on the ridge running down to Carp Bay Point, clearly visible from Sleepy Bay. A bit of a novelty and the summit was reached via the tree!

 

Amber Gambler   13m   24                   (Andrew [Squib] Cubbon, Dean Rollins, Lizzy Oh 2016?)

A fairly serious slabby pitch with delicate thin climbing up the obvious blunt arête. The only gear is found at around 7m (bomber cams up to no.2). Crux is above this, but below is probably 22ish.

Gear was placed on lead, after top rope rehersal.

 

Deano’s Red Line   10m  16        Up wide crack a few meters right of arete        (Dean Rollins, Lizzy Oh & Squib 2016?)

Lizzie’s Green a go go    12m  15       Up crack just right of arete. At horizontal, traverse left and off     (Lizzy Oh, Dean Rollins & Squib 2016?)

 

 

Looking for climbing partner, new to climbing so don’t have much of my own gear yet - 1/1/19-21/1/19

Phillip Stranger(Sparrow) died peacefully at his home in Ararat on the 10th of December. His funeral is to be held at the John Dunne Memorial Chapel 9 Campbell St Ararat this Friday the 21st December at 11am.

Sparrow was well known to Victorian and Tasmanian climbers in the mid Sixties as an excellent climber who will be remembered for a number of classic new routes which have stood the test of time. They include Mari 17, Virginia 18 and Spellbinder 17 at Arapiles and Tierry Le Fronde 16 at Frenchmans Cap in Tasmania.

A tragic accident which occurred whilst scrambling on the Mt Wellington Organ Pipes permanently confined Sparrow to a wheelchair. After rehabilitation in Hobart he returned to Victoria where he continued to reside. His climbing career started at a very early age when in the company of school mates John Moore and Chris Dewhirst and enthused with a passion for falconry they explored the crags close to Melbourne examining raptor nests. Together they developed their skills and went on to make a significant impact on the climbing scene.