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<guide version="3"> <header autonumber="true" camping="" id="1" access="Access to the Hazards Main Wall starts from the Sleepy Bay car park. From the car park follow the trail down to Little Gravelly Beach and continue further around the coast to a boot cleaning station.<br/><br/>At the bottom of the hill 300m further on from the boot cleaning station there is a fork in the track. The Sea Level Traverse leaves the Skyline Traverse at this point, taking off left to head along the coast adjacent to the waterline. The Sea Level Traverse provides access for routes on Main Wall Left Hand Side when sea and swell conditions are reasonably subdued.<br/><br/>The Skyline Traverse follows the right hand fork which also marks the start of the climb up Mt Parsons. As you ascend following the cairned route, the Main Wall is visible to your left. <br/><br/>About halfway up the hill a prominent line of scrub branches out left of the track. This marks where the Mid Level Traverse veers off to the left. Following the Mid Level Traverse provides reliable access to both Main Wall Left Hand Side and Main Wall Right Hand Side.<br/><br/>Continuing further up the Skyline Traverse towards Mt Parsons, the Suzuki Complex is reached just before the track flattens out. This small crag is situated 10m left of the trail.<br/><br/>The Skyline Traverse relents above the Suzuki Complex and flattens out for about 200m. At this point you are close to where longer routes on the Main Wall Left Hand Side (Pneisses, Japhlion and Trusting Rust) top out. This point provides egress for these routes as well as access for top down routes accessed by abseil such as Lucky Streak." acknowledgement="The initial content for this guide was sourced from Freycinet Peninsula: A climber's guide. University of Tasmania Climbers Club and the Climbers Cub of Tasmania, 1995." history="" intro="Perched on a belay on a sunny day, Hazards Main Wall sits in a truly spectacular location. The climbing here is serious and the potential for character forming experiences is high. The longest routes in Freycinet are all found here. <br/><br/>Hazards Main Wall is subdivided into Main Wall Left Hand Side and Main Wall Right Hand Side. Routes such as Pneisses, Japhlion and Trusting Rust that are in the region of 250m in length are located near the left end of Main Wall Left Hand Side. These routes plus most othersother routes on Main Wall Left Hand Side are not particularly well defined, making them tricky to follow. Most routes though follow the cleanest slabs in amongst the confusion. <br/><br/>RoutesIn contrast routes on Main Wall Right Hand Side however, are mostlyshorter 140mand orgenerally less than 150m in length. Routes taper down towards the right hand end into single pitch climbs. The route finding here is generally easier, with most routes following strong natural lines. <br/><br/>For purposes of acquainting yourself with Hazards Main Wall, it is recommended that you identify the routes Japhlion, Stud City and Full Sail, then use these as way points to identify routes nearby. The first section of the Skyline Traverse from Sleepy Bay to Mt Parsons is a key access and egress route for a large number of climbs on Hazards Main Wall and adjacent crags. Equally important for access and egress are two other traverse lines; the Sea Level Traverse and the Mid Level Traverse.<br/><br/>For climbs that finish short of the top of the cliff, a scramble is required to reach the crest. Allow enough time for route finding when setting off. Descents from this crag can be epic in the dark. A number of expansion bolts and mild steel carrots placed in the 1980s and 1990s have been flagged by the Climbers Club of Tasmania for replacement. Where encountered, these should be treated with caution.<br/><br/>Note: In October 2024 Main Wall routes were reordered. 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style="black_text_on_solid_white" text="Skyline Traverse" arrowDirection="south_west"/> <rect id="75539" x="185" y="578" width="108" height="22" style="black_text_on_solid_white" text="Sea Level Traverse" arrowDirection="north_east"/> <rect id="22389" x="1343" y="223" width="80" height="36" style="black_text_on_solid_white" text="Wombat Crag<br/>Upper Tier" arrowDirection="north_east"/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>4</climb> <climb>5</climb> <climb>11</climb> <climb>20</climb> <climb>75</climb> <climb>85</climb> <climb>45</climb> </legend> </image> <text id="90" class="heading3">Main Wall Access Routes</text> <climb id="4" name="Skyline Traverse" fa="First Ascent Unknown" stars="" length="8hrs" grade="2-3" extra="" number="1.">If you are comfortable with soloing granite slabs, then no gear is required other than food and water. One fixed abseil point exists along the way but this can be bypassed with a down climb. The Skyline Traverse involves steep technical scrambling, advanced navigation skills and can be done in either direction though most people start from Sleepy Bay. The polished sections of granite are very slippery after rain, but when dry the friction is positive.<br/><br/>Start at the Sleepy Bay car park and follow the track which heads south along the coast past Little Gravelly Beach. After the boot cleaning station, follow the trail for 300m to the junction with the Sea Level Traverse. Take the right fork and follow a cairned route which heads steeply up the hill before the remnants of a white dotted line begins. This section to the top of Mt Parsons is used as access and egress for Main Wall climbs and adjacent crags. <br/><br/>Continue following the faint dotted line over Mt Parsons, past a massive bivvy cave, until it ceases on Mt Baudin. <br/><br/>Navigation from here becomes more difficult as the obvious way to Mt Dove is blocked by deep ravines and massive boulders. Either abseil in and find a way south through the scrub and boulders or scramble and down climb a gully to the right (west) until you can traverse back south. Once back on the skyline, continue south, down to the col between Mt Baudin and Mt Dove and then steeply up to the summit of Dove. The difficulties aren't over yet, as the steep scramble down the slabs and corners to the col before Mt Amos still requires care. <br/><br/>Most climbers finish on top of Mt Amos and walk down the tourist track but it is possible to make your way down through the scrub and over the boulders to the saddle between Mt Amos and Mt Mayson, and then on down to the Wineglass Bay track on the west side of the peninsula which takes you back to the main car park. Allow at least a couple of hours extra for this section.</climb> <climb id="5" name="Sea Level Traverse" fa="R. Williams, L. Closs, summer 1970." stars="**" length="8hrs" grade="16" extra="" number="2.">Despite its name, the Sea Level Traverse at times detours some distance from the sea. If you are intending to do the entire traverse, take water and at least a small rack and a rope (the first ascentionists bivvied half way). A wet suit is an optional luxury! Requires a fairly still day that is not threatened by swell. It can be very slippery after rain and high wave action.<br/><br/>This Sea Level Traverse is also used as an alternative access means for routes on Main Wall left hand side. If swell dampened rock is encountered negotiating the Horizontal Chimney, you might feel the need to rope up and place gear. This is the principle reason the Mid Level Traverse has gained popularity as a more dependable alternative for accessing routes on Main Wall left hand side. <br/> <br/>Start at Sleepy Bay car park and walk down the trail to Little Gravelly Beach. Follow the coast around to the boot cleaning station and beyond for another 300m. The route diverges from the Skyline Traverse at this point and goes down towards sea level involving some thoughtful scrambling - keep an eye on the swell. Soon after a gulch is reached. This is the Horizontal Chimney and using the protection of a rope and gear is at your discretion. To reach the base of routes on Main Wall Left Hand Side, a detour right and a scramble up the slabs is required. This intersects with the Mid Level Traverse on a prominent scrubby terrace.<br/><br/>To resume the Sea Level Traverse, continue easily along the slabs near the waterline. After 2km of traversing on the slabs and climbing over short steps, you round a corner and see Flowstone Wall. At this point you are at The Gonk. Just after you pass below Flowstone you must swim about 50m (unless you climb Dance of the Sugar Plum Fairy, or any other route on Flowstone, then drop back to sea level). Scramble and walk more easily along the coast line, finishing at the north end of Wineglass Bay Beach. Return over the Wineglass Bay track to the trailhead car park.</climb> <climb id="88" stars="**" extra="" number="3." name="Mid Level Traverse" length="45mins" grade="6" fa="Unknown">The Mid Level Traverse is less of a route climbed for its own sake than a means to access routes on Hazards Main Wall (for both left hand and right hand sides). <br/><br/>From the Sleepy Bay carpark follow the track down to Little Gravelly Beach. Follow the Skyline Traverse along the coast past the boot cleaning station, past the Sea Level Traverse turn off to head up hill towards Mt Parsons. Follow the cairned route until halfway up the hill at the point where a prominent line of scrub branches out left. This is the start of the Mid Level Traverse. It is cairned, and branches off left from the Skyline traverse at this point. <br/><br/>Follow a rough pad and cairns left and traverse round and down under the cliffs. There are two variant traverse lines. The Axiom round to the Reprieve are accessed from a higher level above a slab. For routes left of Stud City take the lower level variant which traverses under the base of a prominent slab past the bolted routes Slippery Slope and Touch and Go. Climb back up arising traverse to join the crag at Stud City. From here the traversing gets more technical and exposed where it traverses under Epaminondas. Beyond here the traverse descends before a down climb a short chimney is required to gain the slabs. Traverse straight across to the line of scrub to reach the base of Japhilion. Pneisses is another 3 mins walk further left and down.<br/><br/>It takes about 40 minutes of careful soloing to reach the base of Japhilion from where the Mid Level Traverse leaves the Skyline Traverse. While the Mid Level Traverse is quite exposed in places, it usually does not require roping up. This has meant that the Mid Level Traverse has become more popular than the Sea Level traverse for accessing routes on the left hand side of Hazards Main Wall. <br/><br/></climb> <text class="heading3" id="6">Main Wall Left Hand Side</text> <text id="91" class="Discussion">All routes on Main Wall Left Hand Side start from the Mid Level Traverse with the exception of Lucky Streak and Serial Streaker which use a top down approach. Pooch Slab and Pneisses are the farthest left routes on Main Wall. To reach these routes follow the Mid Level Traverse to its very end. 15m before you reach Pneisses a drop down into a patch of scrub is required to access a lower traverse line. Just before this drop down and approximately 25m before Pneisses, you pass the start of Japhilion. Japhilion starts off the access terrace where a patch of scrub has grown up against the slab just left of a small vegetated corner. The Sea Level Traverse can be used to access Main Wall Left Hand Side if sea and swell conditions permit. However, the Mid Level Traverse is the more reliably consistent option of the two. 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points="381.0,280.0,label 432.0,195.0,lower-left 484.0,120.0, 521.0,76.0," d="M381.0,280.0C401.4,246.0 412.2,225.7 432.0,195.0C451.8,164.3 470.2,138.4 484.0,120.0C497.8,101.6 499.9,70.0 521.0,76.0" linkedTo="94"/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>45</climb> <climb>46</climb> <climb>93</climb> <climb>94</climb> <climb>95</climb> <climb>96</climb> <climb>97</climb> <climb>98</climb> <climb>99</climb> <climb>100</climb> <climb>33</climb> <climb>72</climb> <climb>32</climb> <climb>30</climb> <climb>29</climb> <climb>28</climb> </legend> </image> <climb id="47" name="Pooch Slab" fa="J. Foden, S. Karpiniec Jan 1974" stars="" length="350m" grade="9" extra="" number="4." guide.action="submit" guide.id="6" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">Left of Japhlion at a corner. <br/>1. Move up crack and onto the slab. Up slab to a small wall belay. <br/>2. Up corner 3m and across easy slabs to next wall. <br/>3. Up crack onto next slab. Follow this up to gulley to the left of the steep slab. <br/>4. Move left out of gulley onto easy angled slabs and straight up slab. Belay on scrub. <br/>5. Continue up slab to easy angled scrubby section above. Walk to base of next vertical section. <br/>6. Up a 15m wall. Move right from top of wall to gully in corner at head of the gully. <br/>7. Easy scramble up gully to top of the cliff.</climb> <climb id="45" name="Pneisses" fa="B. Kennedy, D. Hain, Jan 1975." stars="***" length="240m" grade="15" extra="" number="5." guide.action="submit" guide.id="8" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">A slab climber's dream day out. Don't forget your small wires (RPs). The second pitch has a leftward trend, staying close to the scrub on your left. If you don't trend left you will end up in Japhlion! Starts near the very end of the Mid Level Traverse after a drop down into the scrub to access a lower traverse. Start at the first scrubby crack 8m left of a right facing corner. <br/>1. 45m. Up the crack for about 10m until confident enough to move right onto the slab, then head boldly towards the top righthand corner of slab. Drop off the edge of slab into the gully and go up a couple of metres to tree belay. <br/>2. 40m. Up the gully for 3m, step out right onto slab, up past the tree and continue up the slab carefully, remembering to trend left, but staying right of the vegetation. Belay in the gully on the right. <br/>3. 35m. Move diagonally out left and up to a hollow sounding stance. Up the LH line of weakness in the steeper slab above to a bush belay. <br/>4. 45m. Up the slab trending slightly left, to a bush belay below steeper headwall. <br/>5. 30m. Up RHS of the short headwall and slab above to another 2m wall. Over this an up to finish on a large ledge with a tree belay. <br/>6. 45m. Step across a gutter onto the wall behind and follow the slab above to the top, keeping to the left of the thin crack.</climb> <climb id="46" name="Pneisses (Direct Start)" fa="A. Herington, B. Kennedy Jun 1984." stars="" length="35m" grade="19" extra="" number="6." guide.action="submit" guide.id="7" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">10m right of Pneisses and a few metres right of the main right facing corner. <br/>1. 35m. Up slab on thin holds following fused crack. <br/>2. Continue as for Pneisses.</climb> <climb id="93" stars="**" extra="" number="7." name="Japhilion" length="250m" grade="16" fa="B. Kennedy, D. Hain, Jan 1974">A classic slab that has challenged many fresh-faced aspirants. Start 25m left of the lowest point of the wall at the left hand end of an access terrace where a patch of scrub has grown up against the slab. The route starts up the slab immediately next to the scrub and just left of a small vegetated corner. Take your RPs and several extender slings.<br/>1. 50m. Ascend the slab under the overhanging arch of scrub keeping left of the vegetated corner. Continue up to a thin vertical flake with wire placements at 20m. Head left 2m, then up thin slab moves until the angle eases. Belay on a small ledge that has a frontage of small trees.<br/>2. 50m. Climb left then up past a small clump of trees and through the bulge. Climb the slab above using an edge on the right for security, then continue straight up the centre of the slab and up a steep and bold section. Belay in a tiny cave 3m above where the slab steepens for a second time.<br/>3. 60m. Climb the flakes above and up the slab just left of a vegetated crack/gully which is the source of sling protection. Continue up the slab slinging bushes as you go to belay in a group of trees on a ledge below a steep headwall and corner. <br/>4. 5m. Scramble up to the base of the steep corner. Belay just above the final tree. <br/>5. 10m. An out of character pitch on which you may elect to haul your daypack. Layback and jam the corner and wriggle up the awkward short chimney to the ledge and belay.<br/>6. 35m. Climb the crack just left of the corner to a ledge. Bridge and layaway up the small crack/groove in the steep wall on the right to where you can step right onto the slab and into easier territory. Up the final bulge then easily follow a rising traverse right avoiding small bushes to belay below the final slab.<br/>7. 40m. Taking the easiest line climb straight up the slab to meet the Skyline crest and belay. The rock steepens slightly just before the top.</climb> <climb id="43" name="Griphon" fa="D. Hain, B. Kennedy, Dec 1975." stars="" length="280m" grade="19" extra="" number="8." guide.action="submit" guide.id="11" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">Start as for Japhlion. <br/>1. 50m. Up flake to where Japhlion heads left whereupon this climb goes up to recess at 35m. Up left to ramp then back to right hand end of wall. <br/>2. 10m. Up wall to belay below small overlap above stacked blocks. <br/>3. 40m. Up easy slabs moving left near top. Belay on water streak below weakness in large overlap. <br/>4. 45m. Surmount overlap, step right, then up to overlap. Up to bushy ledge. <br/>5. 40m. Bash up scrub to slab below wall. Walk right to end of slab and shattered blocks. <br/>6. 20m. Climb slanting corner with difficulty. <br/>7. 75m. Scramble easily to top.</climb> <climb id="94" stars="**" extra="" number="9." name="Serial Streaker" length="90m" grade="18" fa="David Stephenson, Mel Sheppherd, Sept 2024">A classic slab that has challenged many fresh-faced aspirants. Start 25m left of the lowest point of the wall at the left hand end of an access terrace where a patch of scrub has grown up against the slab. The route starts up the slab immediately next to the scrub and just left of a small vegetated corner. Take your RPs and several extender slings.<br/>1. 50m. Ascend the slab under the overhanging arch of scrub keeping left of the vegetated corner. Continue up to a thin vertical flake with wire placements at 20m. Head left 2m, then up thin slab moves until the angle eases. Belay on a small ledge that has a frontage of small trees.<br/>2. 50m. Climb left then up past a small clump of trees and through the bulge. Climb the slab above using an edge on the right for security, then continue straight up the centre of the slab and up a steep and bold section. Belay in a tiny cave 3m above where the slab steepens for a second time.<br/>3. 60m. Climb the flakes above and up the slab just left of a vegetated crack/gully which is the source of sling protection. Continue up the slab slinging bushes as you go to belay in a group of trees on a ledge below a steep headwall and corner. <br/>4. 5m. Scramble up to the base of the steep corner. Belay just above the final tree. <br/>5. 10m. An out of character pitch on which you may elect to haul your daypack. Layback and jam the corner and wriggle up the awkward short chimney to the ledge and belay.<br/>6. 35m. Climb the crack just left of the corner to a ledge. Bridge and layaway up the small crack/groove in the steep wall on the right to where you can step right onto the slab and into easier territory. Up the final bulge then easily follow a rising traverse right avoiding small bushes to belay below the final slab.<br/>7. 40m. Taking the easiest line climb straight up the slab to meet the Skyline crest and belay. The rock steepens slightly just before the top.</climb> <climb id="95" stars="**" extra="" number="10." name="Lucky Streak" length="85m" grade="17" fa="David Stephenson, Justin Otlowski, Mar 2023">A nice well-protected slab route accessed by abseil from the top of the Main Wall. Follow the Skyline Traverse track past the top of the Suzuki Complex towards the top of the Main Wall. After the track passes through a tunnel of overhanging boulders and starts to descend slightly towards the saddle, with small cliffs above on the left and below on the right, head left towards the ocean. A squeeze between boulders accesses a short leaf filled gully on the sea side with a gum tree growing out of it. Down this for about 10m to a scrubby ledge that leads back left 20m towards Sleepy Bay and two U-bolts on the wall above. Abseil 80m (1x25m/1x35m slightly right/1x25m) off double U bolt anchors to a small stance at the base of a clean crack on the slab, above the steepening, where you can build a trad anchor.<br/>1. 25m 17 Climb the clean crack up the slab with good gear to a double bolt anchor at a small stance.<br/>2. 35m 17 Follow the line of bolts up the polished water streak to a double bolt anchor on a scrubby ledge. Fully bolted with a couple of optional gear placements.<br/>3. 25m 17 Climb the slab past two bolts to a cam placement in a flake, step left and follow the well protected corner to a final little slab then the top.</climb> <climb id="96" stars="" extra="" number="11." name="Trusting Rust" length="230m" grade="18" fa="E. Peacock, J. Kennedy, Jun 1984">An adventure of rare difficulty and deviation, this route has a strong rightward trend due to the first and third pitches.<br/>1. 50m. Start as for Japhlion for 10m then move diagonally right for 10m past an inverted pocket and good wire placement. Continue up the excellent slab to good holds and belay. <br/>2. 50m. Traverse right until you can move up onto the slab via a detached block. Keep ~15m right of the small broken overlap then head straight up the slab to belay at flake in 8m polished water streak, approx. 3m below large overlap (a ropestretcher). <br/>3. 50m. Move to the right-hand end of the overlap and belay in the scrubby chute (another ropestretcher). <br/>4. 25m. Move up about 8m, then left below roof then across cave to blocks and belay. <br/>5. 30m. Step left on face holds then up crack to corner. Up corner to belay. <br/>6. 25m. Continue easily to top.</climb> <climb id="97" stars="*" extra="" number="12." name="Trusting Rust Direct Start" length="50m" grade="18" fa="G. Cooper, A. Adams, July 1991">Up Japhlion for 5m, then traverse right past one bolt runner to a second bolt, then left slightly and straight up passing 2 bolts, a cam pocket and a wire placement to the top.</climb> <climb id="98" stars="*" extra="" number="13." name="What a Crafty Snail" length="50m" grade="17" fa="G. Cooper, A. Adams, July 1991">A good route to gain confidence for climbing slabs. Utilises the same first two bolt runners as Trusting Rust Direct Start. Climb Japhlion for 5m, then traverse right for 12m past both bolts into the line. Climb up passing 3 bolts to the top. To exit, traverse left and abseil off tea tree.</climb> <climb id="99" stars="" extra="" number="14." name="The Artistic Fibber" length="60m" grade="20" fa="A. Adams, G. Cooper, 1991">Start 12m right of Japhlion, at the 2m tall tea tree growing at the foot of the cliff. Carefully preserving the necessary tree, climb up it and onto the cliff. Up and then a tricky, reachy move right, then up trickily to a good little ledge on the slab. Traverse right and then follow the obvious line to the top passing three bolts. Take a swag of RP's.</climb> <climb id="100" stars="" extra="" number="15." name="The Laughing Jackass" length="65m" grade="19" fa="G. Cooper, R. Sellers, Jan 1990">Feeling mortal? Then stay ground-bound. About 25m right of Japhilion, at the easiest place to breach the overhang until you reach Epaminondas, moving right. Near the lowest point of the cliff. <br/>1. 35m. Surmount bulge and climb to just above the tree at 10m. Step left 3m climb up to belay at first opportunity. <br/>2. 30m. Pick your way up to the strong diagonal ramp 20m below the major headwall. Traverse 20m down the ramp to the left and either abseil off (a single rope will get you low enough to downclimb at about grade 6) or continue up Griphon or Trusting Rust.</climb> <text class="heading3" id="34">Main Wall Right Hand Side</text> <text class="Discussion" id="7">All the routes on Main Wall Right Hand Side start from the Mid Level Traverse. There is an upper and lower variant to the Mid Level Traverse. With the exception of Touch and Go and Slippery Slope, the upper variant above the prominent slab accesses routes between Gunboat Diplomat and the Reprieve. For all routes from Stud City left, take the lower level variant under the base of the prominent slab, passing the starts of Touch and Go and Slippery Slope. The lower variant climbs back up to regain the traverse line at Stud City. Routes are described from Left to Right and follow on from the Laughing Jackass on Main Wall Left Hand Side.</text> <climb id="33" name="Epaminondas" fa="Pitches 1-4: Garn Cooper, Al Adams, Jan 1990. Fat Boy variant (pitches 5 & 6): Dave Gardner, Garn Cooper, Fat Boy Buckley, Mar 1993" stars="*" length="226m" grade="17" extra="" number="16." guide.action="submit" guide.id="19" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">A hoot for the grade, particularly the first pitch. Named after a foolish and dimwitted boy from a children's story. Start 7m left of Fianchetto, directly below parallel cracks and the LH end of the first big roof. <br/>1. 31m. Up small crack for 5m, L for 8m, up short R facing corner for 10m to stance, L for 5m to base of crack, up this for 3m to good stance and awkward semi-hanging belay on slab. <br/>2. 47m. Follow crack up slab for 3m, traverse L on horizontal break for 10m, up major corner for 4m, move 2m R to thin flakes and crack. Up crack and steep corner above to belay on slab near trees.<br/>3. 58m. Straight up slab to the base of groove just below a tree covered terrace on the right hand side. Climb the groove to belay on the terrace.<br/>4. 50m. Last pitch if you choose to follow the escape route Pons asinorum. Firstly to limit drag, move your belay to the right hand end of the terrace and reset it (10m). Step 2m down around the corner, then climb the delightfully scalloped slab to the top. Traverse right below the steep headwall across a dubious bridge (pons asinorum) to belay near scrub (40m). To exit, walk right along the terrace system, moving up a level after 30m to access exit chimney and easier ground.<br/>4a. 50m. Fat Boy variant: Traverse L off the terrace and across the cave. Climb the line leading out the top of the cave to belay at the foot of a short laid back corner. <br/>5. 40m. Fat Boy variant continued: Up corner then up the terraces.</climb> <climb id="32" name="Fianchetto" fa="G. Cooper, B. Kennedy, Feb 1988." stars="" length="100m" grade="18" extra="" number="17." guide.action="submit" guide.id="23" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">A strong line is the best that can be said about this one. Starts 20m left of Cosmic City Flameout at a big steep left facing corner. <br/>1. 23m. Up corner, left under roof, then up to belay on big loose flake. <br/>2. 22m. Continue up, traversing left under headwall roofs, to belay where drag dictates. <br/>3. 55m. Continue left until roofs end, then straight up to finish below steep headwall. Exit right via pons-asinorum (Epaminondas pitch 4).</climb> <climb id="31" name="Auntie Helen, There's Something Furry In Your Fridge" fa="G. Cooper, P. Cullen, Feb 1988." stars="" length="143m" grade="18" extra="" number="18.">Not even a strong line, but what an excellent name! Start as for Fianchetto. <br/>1. 23m. As for Fianchetto. <br/>2. 40m. Step right then straight up.<br/>3. 40m. Straight up slab. <br/>4. 40m. Step 2m right and down around the corner, then up the delightful scallops to traverse right across a dubious bridge (see Pons Asinorum description above) below steep headwall. Belay in the nearby scrub.</climb> <climb id="72" name="Pons Asinorum" fa="" stars="*" length="50m" grade="14" extra="" number="19.">Very useful when the remaining daylight is horribly limited and you need to exit the crag ASAP. The pons asinorum (bridge of asses) is used as an alternative final pitch escape route for Epaminondas. It also serves as the final pitch of Fianchetto and Aunty Helen there's Something Furry in your Fridge. <br/><br/>Move your belay to the right end of the terrace and set up a new belay (10m). Step 2m down around the corner, then climb the delightfully scalloped slab to the top. Traverse right below the steep headwall across a dubious bridge (pons asinorum) to belay near scrub (40m). 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Kennedy, P. Cullen, Jan 1977." stars="" length="150m" grade="19" extra="" number="20." guide.action="submit" guide.id="24" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">Not too sustained nor inspiring. Starts immediately to the left of Don't Land on the Lunch at a large boulder.<br/>1. 30m 19. Move up onto ledge, diagonally left along weakness then 5m up to follow flake. Move up wall above until angle eases. <br/>2. 40m 15. Move easily up wall and slab to belay in small cave. <br/>3. 45m 16. Climb fused corner until quartz veins. Traverse right then up wall to belay. <br/>4. 35m. Continue easily to top.</climb> <climb id="29" name="Don't Land On The Lunch" fa="Al Adams, Garn Cooper, Pete Steane, Jan 1990. Direct headwall finish added by Matt Perchard, J.Keane Dec 1990." stars="**" length="93m" grade="20" extra="" number="21." guide.action="submit" guide.id="25" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">A triumph over self-doubt. This testpiece slab was bolted on lead, so spare a thought for the first ascentionist, who climbed it ground up, before complaining about the lack of bolts and gear. Starts at a large boulder left of Kids on Skids, below two closely positioned bolts.<br/>1. 56m 20. Straight up past small ledge and the 2 bolts (carrots, topmost with hanger) to reach a welcome stance with spike runner (crux). Up the slab to a big cave. Pass the cave on the left and continue up to the right facing flake and gear (phew). Follow the line aiming for the apex of the triangular slab. From here, move right a touch the straight up slab via two overlaps for 8m to the left end of small one metre wall and DBB, 5m above is a steep headwall.<br/>2a. 30m 18. Direct finish: Continue up the headwall via the obvious crack onto the slab and up to belay. <br/>2b. 37m 16. Original finish: Traverse right from the DBB for 8m into a cave then up pitch 3 of Kids on Skids<br/>Or alternatively use the DBB to rap off (56m).</climb> <climb id="28" name="Kids On Skids" fa="Garn Cooper, Al Adams, Jan 1988." stars="**" length="95m" grade="17" extra="" number="22." guide.action="submit" guide.id="26" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">The first pitch is a psychological wrestle, the second a mossyscalloped lichenous slab and the third finishes up a steep polished headwall . The stars are for the first pitch. Start 20m right of Cosmic City Flameout and 30m left of Stud City at the point where the overhanging wall changes to a slab under some small overlaps.<br/>1. 20m 17. Up, traverse left to a small flake at 5m, then straight up through the overlaps to belay at small one man cave with slot in roof. Gear is good but relatively sparse and some of the rock is a little suspect. Rap off (while you're ahead) a thread here (2m long tape threads replaced Sep 2013).<br/>2. 40m 17. Step right 2m andthen up an RP crack following the scalloped indents. Having a wire brush on hand would actually make this pitch pleasant. When thisthe crack runs out and the angle eases, go straight up to belay at a small 1m wall, 5m below the steep headwall.<br/>3. 30m 16. Step right a little and go up the steep polished cracks through the headwall. It is possible to rapskip offthis herepitch by traversing 8m left to the DBB on Don't Land on the Lunch and rapping off (1x 56m).<br/>3. 30m 16. Step right a little and go up the steep polished cracks through the headwall.</climb> <climb id="27" name="Tic Tac Toe" fa="Kim Robinson 12 Aug 2001." stars="" length="15m" grade="25" extra="" number="23.">Climbs the overhanging crack between Lubricity and Kids on Skids. Head right to Lubricity once topped out over lip.</climb> <climb id="26" name="Lubricity" fa="Pitch 1: A. Potito, R. Eccleston Jul 1993. Pitch 2-3: A. Hasan, G. Cooper, A. Herington, M.Sands, Jun 1992." stars="" length="105m" grade="22" extra="" number="24." guide.action="submit" guide.id="28" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">A good route which combines a very steep start with some beautiful slab climbing above. Awaits a direct third pitch which has been top-roped by seconds at grade 18. Five metres right of Kids on Skids, there's a ledge below and to the left of where a short left facing corner broaches the overhanging wall. Start here. <br/>1. 35m. Right along the ledge, then up the corner to a sloping hold and bolt. More desperate moves up and left onto slab, which is followed past two overlaps. Traverse left for 5m under second overlap to a weakness leading back right which is followed. Belay on the ledge above. <br/>2. 30m. Straight up passing a bolt in the slab, then slightly left and up to a 5 hex placement in the ocean of granite, then another bolt. Belay beneath the wall. <br/>3. 40m. Diagonally right along ledge to a feasible crack system (8m). Up passing a cave on the right before moving back left to a slabby corner. Belay when angle eases.</climb> <climb id="75" stars="***" extra="Þ" number="25." name="Winning Streaks" length="115m" grade="18" fa="Dave Stephenson and Stu Scott, October 2018">A clean fully bolted slab route that offers four excellent pitches of varied climbing. The best approach by far is to abseil in from the top, although it is also possible to reach the climb from the ground at a significantly harder grade via either Hootin and Jivin or Lubricity.<br/><br/>Gear: 2 x 50/60m ropes or 1 x 70/80m rope, 12 draws.<br/><br/>Access: The top of the climb is directly below The Bullshit Factor, the prominent overhanging dihedral on the Suzuki Complex. It is reached in a 40 minute walk from the Sleepy Bay carpark, via the cairned and taped Skyline Traverse. Where the track starts to level off shortly before gaining the top of the Hazards Main Wall and just before the top of the Suzuki Complex (it may be easiest to find this first, the steep cliff only a few metres left of the track) cross to the ocean side of the ridge at some large boulders. Scramble down keeping to the right and walk south along the base of the Suzuki Complex, then scramble 25m down the scrubby slope directly below the Bullshit Factor to a large boulder perched on top of the slab, where the top anchors are located. Four abseils down the line of bolts will get you to the bottom of the climb, which is a small stance with a DBB at the base of a short corner, about 20m from the ground above an overhanging wall. The first two abseils can be combined in a 60m rope stretcher from the LOWER set of anchors on the slab, but make sure you knot the ends of your rope! The ground can be reached with a 35m abseil from the anchors at the bottom of P2, or a 20m abseil from the anchors at the bottom of P1.<br/><br/>1. 20m 17, 5 bolts. Follow the slightly right trending line up the slab to a TBB on the brushy ledge.<br/><br/>2. 30m 18/21, 9 bolts. Up the groove above the belay, stepping left onto the slab where the groove steepens and disappears (18). Alternatively, the groove finishes with a very thin exit onto the slab above (21). Continue up the easy slab to a DBB at a small stance.<br/><br/>3. 35m 18, 7 bolts. Climb the featured wall between the white water streaks, continuing up the easy slab above to a DBB at a small stance.<br/><br/>4. 30m 18, 8 bolts. Pad up the polished water streaks to glory, passing a small bush and overlap to a DBB. <br/></climb> <climb id="24" name="Hootin And Jivin" fa="Garn Cooper, B. Kennedy, Feb 1988." stars="" length="90m" grade="22" extra="" number="26." guide.action="submit" guide.id="29" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">Well protected at the difficult sections. Just left of Stud City, below the right hand end of the obvious traverse line. <br/>1. 20m. Up, then traverse left, to belay on the ledge after the hard bit. <br/>2. 20m. Straight up the corner, stepping left at the huge diagonal to surmount the bulge. <br/>3. 50m. Straight up to belay (quite run-out, but easy).</climb> <climb id="23" name="Torstein And Back" fa="G.Cooper, M.Sands, Nov 1991." stars="" length="16m" grade="19" extra="" number="27." guide.action="submit" guide.id="31" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">How can you ignore a line like this? Approx. 4m above the first belay on Hootin and Jivin (belay there). Traverse along the flake to the right. Continue up RP Freedom Seeker, or Stud City, or whatever.</climb> <text class="text" id="70">The descent for the next few climbs is serviced by either abseil or by continuing upward to meet the Skyline Traverse. <br/><br/>Abseil route: From the top of Stud City scramble (roped up) right for 30m to a bigger ledge where on the edge of the slab you will see a tree with a sling on it. Rap 50m from here to a huge ledge covered in trees. From this ledge walk down about 10m towards the next drop off where you will see a tree beside a small gully. Rap 30m from here to the ground.<br/><br/>Skyline Traverse Egress: From the top of Stud City you can climb up to a tree-filled corner above (you might want to stay roped up) and continue scrambling upwards till you intersect with the Skyline Traverse before descending it.</text> <climb id="22" name="RP Freedomseeker" fa="Garn Cooper, Al Adams, B. Kennedy, Mar 1991." stars="*" length="100m" grade="17" extra="" number="28." guide.action="submit" guide.id="32" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">Optional bouldery start through gum leaves to gain the ramp. Otherwise start at Stud City.<br/>1. 35m 17. Climb the right-leading ramp, then up into Stud City and up to belay where a big ledge leads left.<br/>2. 30m 17. Traverse left into the corner. Climb corner and clean wall on left, then up slab to belay.<br/>3. 35m. On to top.</climb> <climb id="84" stars="" extra="" number="29." name="Hard Very Mossy (HVM) 4a" length="35 m" grade="10" fa="M. Johnston, C. Movita Nov. 2022">From the top belay of Well Hung Left Exit (which is on natural gear), head direct up the pillar/flake for 4 m onto the slab, then quest off left along the line of least resistance to the third belay of Winning Streaks. Takes a number 3 camalot and some microcams and some trees can be slung. Like much of the climbing on this face this pitch doesn't take enough gear to be worth climbing in its own right, but is worthwhile to access the big sexy ringbolts on Winning Streaks.</climb> <climb id="81" stars="**" extra="" number="30." name="Well Hung (Left Exit)" length="85m" grade="19" fa="H Jackson and S Joseph March 2021">Exciting, extremely well protected climbing on clean rock. Can rap to ground from top of second pitch.<br/>1. 40m 17. As per Stud City<br/>2. 25m 19. As per Well Hung through the overlap. Up LH crack for 4m, clip bolt out left and make wild move left onto the arete (crux), clip second bolt and then back down and left for one move. Climb slab/arete past another bolt to DBB at ledge. Abseil from these anchors is 57m to ground. <br/>3. 20m 18. (Optional). Continue up worthwhile slab past 2 BR, then step 2m left at overlap to finish easily up lichenous slabs and cracks to ledge - take a few camalots size 0.4-2). To descend walk R through scrub along ledge above SC to standard abseil point.</climb> <climb id="21" name="Well Hung" fa="Hamish and Marcel Jackson Feb 1999." stars="" length="50m" grade="18" extra="" number="31.">Exciting stuff following a direct continuation of Stud City's big corner. Start up S.C.'s second pitch, but instead of going right across the under-cling flake, take the cracks straight up through the roof/overlap and ultimately take the RH crack (crux, crack currently full of dirt and grass making it impossible to climb without rap cleaning it first) to the top of the slabs. Passing the overlap turns out to be relatively easy, but pretty exposed.</climb> <climb id="20" name="Stud City" fa="B.Kennedy, T.Beaman, R.Muehlin, Jan 1977. FFA: H, Rock Daddy, Noel Baby." stars="***" length="100m" grade="19" extra="" number="32." guide.action="submit" guide.id="33" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">The superb, original classic on this part of the cliff. A must do climb and one of the best multi-pitches in the State. Well-protected with a full rack up to #4 BD, it takes in the enormous flake that can be seen from just before the horizontal chimney on the sea level traverse. It is much easier to approach along the higher traverse line, the route along the base of these climbs, than from sea level. The climb begins straight above the horizontal chimney by the largest gum tree on the scrubby terrace.<br/>1. 40m 17. Up right trending corner until a large hollow flake is reached. Hand-traverse right along the flake until a groove is reached. Invigorating climbing up this to belay on ledges above.<br/>2. 30m 18. Continue up to the crack system until you can undercling right along the massive flake to its end. Make an exciting traverse right across the slab to a shrub. Belay on this below the water runnel.<br/>3. 30m 19. Move up the unique chimney groove to a finger crack. Continue up until the climbing gets desperate, at which point it is possible to move left onto the slabby face. Continue following the face/crack to its obvious end to belay. (This pitch can be linked with the previous one on a full stretched 60m double rope & no drag. Keep small gear for the end)</climb> <climb id="19" name="Continuum" fa="Hamish and Marcel Jackson Feb 1999." stars="**" length="60m" grade="17" extra="" number="33." guide.action="submit" guide.id="35" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">Originally led ground up with a large runout out through the crux; the FA team failed to subsequently repeat this route a few years on (self sand bag). As of June 2017 two bolts have been added and some brushing of the initial groove has consideriably improved the route's repeatability. Start at the belay atop the first pitch of Stud City.<br/>1. 30m 17. Climb the second pitch of Stud City to the initial overlap (10m below the enormous flake) then follow the diagonal overlap leading right past 2 BR and spaced but good natural gear. When the overlap peters out, continue traversing right then up to belay just right of the arête on a decent size sloping ledge.<br/>2. 30m 15. Step back left of the arête and follow the convoluted depressions up the arête to the top with spaced gear. Great climbing for the grade.</climb> <text class="Discussion" id="25">A first rate but solid link up (grade 22,19,18,19) would be to climb the first pitch of Hootin and Jivin, followed by Torstein and Back, then reverse the traverse of RP Freedomseeker to finish up the last two pitches of Stud City.</text> <climb id="18" name="Trouble In Paradise" fa="Roger Parkyn, C.Bye, Nov 1992." stars="" length="9m" grade="21" extra="" number="34." guide.action="submit" guide.id="36" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">This is the bolted route about 20m right of Stud City, just left of a corner. The first two bolts are missing hangers, but take wires. The climbing isn't great, but there is a single bolt belay and lower off.</climb> <climb id="17" name="Leo's Retreat" fa="C. Rathbone, G. Kowalik, P. Robinson, Nov 1976." stars="" length="160m" grade="15" extra="" number="35." guide.action="submit" guide.id="37" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">Loose, scrubby and indirect, found 30m left of The Reprieve. <br/>1. 25m. Up variety of cracks to belay on sloping ledge to the left. <br/>2. 42m. Move left around the corner to a large scrubby terrace. Walk 30m left to the obvious corner. <br/>3. 25m. Move up right to a small hollow, then trend left and up via the corner to a good ledge. <br/>4. 30m. Move right for 12m then up a wide crack to clean slabs. Belay on jammed blocks. <br/>5. 12m. Left up slabs to small caves. <br/>6. 33m. Up broken walls to the base of the overhang. <br/>7. 40m. Right for 12m, up grooves, then across the slab to final short wall and on to top.</climb> <climb id="16" name="The Reprieve" fa="B. Kennedy, D. Bowman, Dec 1976." stars="" length="90m" grade="18" extra="" number="36." guide.action="submit" guide.id="38" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">Surprisingly worthwhile and adventurous. Start 30m left of Full Sail at a pile of blocks on the ledge. <br/>1. 45m. Move up wall on good holds then friction traverse right for 6m then up to ledge and dead tree. Continue easily up wall to belay. <br/>2. 45m. Traverse left for 6m then straight up to ledge.</climb> <climb id="15" name="Jack Shit" fa="Garn Cooper, P.Sullivan, Adam Potito, Mar 1993." stars="" length="45m" grade="17" extra="" number="37." guide.action="submit" guide.id="39" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">A dirty adventure, which with a good cleaning effort or much traffic might become a good climb. Start as for Trucks Have Wings, clipping it's first two bolts before traversing left past the first crack to climb the second one. The direct start was done on top-rope by the second.</climb> <climb id="79" stars="**" extra="12Þ" number="38." name="Touch and Go" length="30m" grade="21" fa="David Stephenson and Stu Scott, August 2019">Lovely. The bolted polished water streak 6m left of Slippery Slope. The crux comes in the first 10m. DBB at top.</climb> <climb id="80" stars="**" extra="7Þ" number="39." name="Slippery Slope" length="30m" grade="21" fa="David Stephenson and Ben Maddison, August 2020">Delicate climbing up the bolted left leaning seam on the polished slabs below Trucks Have Wings. The difficulties ease considerably after the first 3 bolts. DBB at top. The smooth slab between Slippery Slope and Touch and Go goes at grade 22/23 and can be top roped from either set of anchors - a decision was made to not bolt it due to proximity to the other routes.</climb> <climb id="14" name="Trucks Have Wings" fa="A.Hasan, Garn Cooper, Jun 1992." stars="**" length="45m" grade="18" extra="" number="40." guide.action="submit" guide.id="41" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">Great climbing - challenging for the grade. The first crack left of Havahorror. Climb the slab past two bolts (crux), move right into the crack. Up this and the slab above. A short and easy traverse / down-climb to the right gets you to the Full Sail Rap Anchor (stay roped up).</climb> <climb id="13" name="Havahorror" fa="Doug Fife, L.Minami, Dec 1982." stars="*" length="45m" grade="21" extra="" number="41." guide.action="submit" guide.id="42" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">The first line left of Full Sail, often a bit dirty, but cleaning it is easy if you do one of the other routes first. Up the fine left facing corner.</climb> <text class="Discussion" id="10">Rap anchors exist to service the next few climbs can be found at the top of Full Sail.</text> <climb id="12" name="Full Sail Direct" fa="Doug Fife, L.Minami, Dec 1982." stars="**" length="36m" grade="20" extra="" number="42." guide.action="submit" guide.id="43" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">A few metres left of Full Sail below a bolt at 5m. Climb via the bolt into Full Sail and up this line to the top.</climb> <climb id="11" name="Full Sail" fa="K. Lindorff, K. Roseberry, Jan 1977." stars="**" length="40m" grade="19" extra="" number="43." guide.action="submit" guide.id="44" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">Easily recognised, Full Sail is a good waypoint to locate other routes nearby.<br/>1. 40m 19. Located on the right hand end of the Main Wall on a compact wall about 100m above sea level. At the right hand end of the wall and running to the right, a prominent roof splits the wall at about 15m height. Full Sail takes the line on the left hand end of this roof. Climb the line up to the corner of the roof (easy but unprotected for first 6m), step left when in line with the roof, then continue up the twin crack system past a small chimney to a large columnar feature. Follow this on its right side and over a bulge to a DBB above when the angle eases. Alternatively, instead of stepping left at the roof it is possible to continue up the crack through the roof and traverse left at the next blank wall. This makes the climb more sustained but still 19.</climb> <climb id="76" stars="*" extra="" number="44." name="Full Sail Ahead " length="40m" grade="22" fa="Andrew [Squib] Cubbon & Isaac Lethborg, Oct 2017">Runout climbing up a nice line on great rock. The second half is very poorly protected and higher up falling does not become an option, hence the single star. Could be top-roped from the Full Sail anchors. Start as for Full Sail.<br/>1. 40m 22. Climb the straight line of Full Sail without deviating left at any point. Difficult moves over the bulge with poor pro leads to a delicate, un-protectable corner. Tip toe your way up this with increasing trepidation until your first gear just below the anchors.<br/></climb> <climb id="73" stars="*" extra="" number="45." name="The Smell of an Oily Rag" length="65m" grade="20" fa="Alex Lewis and Kate Tasker Aug 2015">Start up Full Sail Direct until 3m above roof, then traverse R into corner/ledge system and up right to arching overlap. Along this to its R end, up and over, step right to a good cam in a horizontal. Blast up the slab aiming for the anchors on The Axiom (FA went up black streak but follow your nose). A worthwhile outing and a mega single pitch tbat will fulfill your narcissistic desires. The hardest moves are the start but the top is enticingly bold.</climb> <text class="Discussion" id="35">The following climbs start downhill to the left of Epaminondas and are most quickly approached along the sealevel traverse if the swell permits this. They are described R-L to continue on from the previous section.</text> <climb id="9" name="The Axiom" fa="Sam Edwards, Garry Phillips, Roger Parkyn, Sep 1994." stars="***" length="30m" grade="24" extra="9Þ" number="46." guide.action="submit" guide.id="45" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">Start at the base of the waterwashed groove 30m right of Full Sail. Follow 9 bolts up the polished groove to a large ledge and rap anchors. The crux is overcoming the two inital bulges and is technical but not strenuous.</climb> <climb id="82" stars="***" extra="11Þ" number="47." name="Gunboat Diplomat" length="30 m" grade="26" fa="M. Johnston, C. Movita Nov. 2022">Shares the first two bolts with The Axiom before heading off right. Eleven fixed hangers and finishes at same anchor as Axiom. Crux passing the fourth bolt then sustained 23 to the top.</climb> <text class="heading3" id="48">The Suzuki Complex</text> <text class="Discussion" id="49">The Suzuki Complex is situated above Hazards Main Wall ~10m on the seaward side of the Skyline traverse track 30 minutes walk from Sleepy Bay. The cliff faces towards the sea and is just below the walk-off route for the longer Hazards Main Wall routes.</text> <climb id="50" name="Luxury Leather Goods" fa="Roger Parkyn Jan 1991." stars="" length="15m" grade="19" number="48.">Ascends the steep curving crack initally on fingers then widening to hands. The route is 2m left of the arete that is left of The Bullshit Factor.</climb> <image id="78" src="Bullshit.jpg" height="532" width="400" legend="true"> <drawing> <path id="54756" points="289.0,453.0, 272.0,377.0," d="M289.0,453.0C282.2,422.6 278.8,407.4 272.0,377.0" arrow="true" linkedTo="51"/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>51</climb> </legend> </image> <climb id="51" name="The Bullshit Factor" fa="Jack Keane Jan 1991" stars="" length="15m" grade="20" number="49.">The uncompromising dihedral whose left wall is slightly overhanging. Sustained.</climb> <climb id="52" name="Osmotic Tension" fa="Roger Parkyn Jan 1991" stars="" length="15m" grade="21" number="50.">Take the crack straight above the base of the leaning gum tree, 20m right of The Bullshit Factor. Good wires protect the face above.</climb> <text class="heading3" id="53">The Underworld</text> <text class="Discussion" id="54">This crag is found by heading down towards the water where the Skyline Traverse leaves the Sea-level Traverse. There is an ampitheatre of steep pink granite undercut by a large cave.</text> <climb id="55" name="Corner Part-2" fa="Roxanne Wells, Pete Steane, Apr 1994." stars="" length="12m" grade="18" extra="" number="51." guide.action="submit" guide.id="53" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">As you traverse down the southern side of the crag you pass a series of short easy corners. This is the closest to the sea with a small roof at the top, starts off a terrace 12m above the ocean.</climb> <climb id="56" name="The Wind Below" fa="Gordon Poultney, Donna Bridge 1997." stars="" length="12m" grade="26" extra="Þ" number="52." guide.action="submit" guide.id="54" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">The arête just right of Corner Part-2 (with rusty carrots).</climb> <climb id="57" name="Jabberwock" fa="Pete Steane, Roxanne Wells, Apr 1994." stars="**" length="27m" grade="22" extra="" number="53." guide.action="submit" guide.id="55" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">Steep, strenuous and well protected. Starts left of the caves entrance. Step R then steeply to horizontal, left 3m to flake, up this to thinner flake above.</climb> <climb id="58" name="Slithy Tove" fa="Pete Steane, Roxanne Wells, Apr 1994. FFA R. Parkyn 1997." stars="*" length="24m" grade="24" extra="" number="54." guide.action="submit" guide.id="56" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">First half as for Jabberwock, but rather than traversing left to flake, traverse right 2m past a hole to another crack, follow this through overlap with good pro.</climb> <climb id="59" name="Via Magna" fa="John Fisher, Mar 1995." stars="***" length="20m" grade="26" extra="Þ" number="55.">Out the left side of the cave past many bits of glue and metal.</climb> <climb id="60" name="Travels by Dragonfly" fa="Dave Jones, Gordon Poultney, 22 Feb 1995." stars="" length="20m" grade="27" extra="Þ" number="56." guide.action="submit" guide.id="58" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">Right of the cave. Follow the line of bolts from the hanging belay.</climb> <climb id="61" name="Nunc Dimitis" fa="John Fisher Mar 1995" stars="**" length="16m" grade="24" extra="Þ" number="57.">The wall with 4 bolts right of Travels by Dragonfly. A boulder problem start out of a slot and exit right avoiding the final wall at the top. No anchor. Superb.</climb> <climb id="62" name="Waters of Oblivion" fa="John Fisher Mar 1995." stars="" length="20m" grade="22" extra="" number="58." guide.action="submit" guide.id="60" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb">The sculpted arête on the right edge of the Underworld provides a struggle, with a final harder move well left of the arête. The rock and the climbing aren't that good. Originally climbed with a long sling protecting the hard upper moves, the first ascentionist planned to return and place a bolt. He never did, but feel free.</climb> <climb id="63" name="Superbrinkmanslip" fa="Nick Hancock Feb 2003." stars="**" length="15m" grade="22" number="59.">A wonderful deep-water solo, on the seaward side of the huge fish shaped boulder, at the northern entrance to the Underworld. Abseil to a stance on a ledge below the mouth and get a friend to pull up the rope. Climb small pockets to a L leading traverse. Follow this and finish straight up to the ridge.</climb> <text class="heading3" id="64">Insomnia Wall</text> <text class="text" id="65">At the last gulch on the track to Sleepy Bay, descend to the very steep north facing wall by the sea.</text> <climb id="66" name="Insomnia" fa="Nick Hancock Apr 2004." stars="**" length="10m" grade="25" extra="5Þ" number="60.">Left-hand line with a sloper start. Lower off.</climb> <climb id="67" name="Project" stars="" length="10m" grade="" extra="4Þ" number="61."/> <climb id="68" name="Weffy" fa="Doug McConnell Apr 2004." stars="*" length="10m" grade="22" extra="5Þ" number="62.">From cairn climb right then up to lower off.</climb> </guide> |
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