- CCT Public Page
- [CCT Members Area]
Hazards Main Wall
|
| ||||||
Acknowledgement | The initial content for this guide was sourced from Freycinet Peninsula: A climber's guide. University of Tasmania Climbers Club and the Climbers Club of Tasmania, 1995. | ||||||
Introduction | The Hazards Main Wall sits in a truly spectacular location. The climbing here is serious and the potential for character forming experiences is high. The longest routes in Freycinet are found here. The Main Wall is subdivided into Main Wall Left, Centre and Right to match corresponding topos. Routes such as Pneisses, Japhlion and Trusting Rust that are around 250m in length are located on Main Wall Left. Routes on Main Wall Left are not particularly well defined, making them tricky to follow. However as a general rule they tend to follow the cleanest slabs in amongst the confusion. Routes on Main Wall Centre are shorter and generally less than 150m in length. Routes on Main Wall Right taper down into single pitch climbs. Route finding for both these areas is more straightforward, with most routes following strong natural lines. To enable route familiarisation, identifying the routes Japhlion, Lucky Streak, Winning Streaks, Stud City and Full Sail to use as way points is helpful. The Main Wall Overview topo further aids the identification process. The initial section of the Skyline Traverse from Sleepy Bay carpark to Mt Parsons is the principle approach route for the Main Wall and adjacent crags. Equally important approach routes are two other traverse lines; the Sea Level Traverse and the Mid Level Traverse that branch off the Skyline Traverse. For climbs that finish short of the top of the cliff, a scramble is required to reach the crest. Allow enough time for route finding and remember descents from this crag can be epic in the dark. A number of expansion bolts and mild steel carrots placed in the 1980s and 1990s have been flagged by the Climbers Club of Tasmania for replacement. Where encountered, these should be treated judiciously. In October 2024 the Main Wall routes were reordered left to right and new topos added in line with established convention. | ||||||
Access | Access to the Hazards Main Wall starts from the Sleepy Bay car park. From the car park follow the trail down to Little Gravelly Beach and continue further around the coast to a boot cleaning station. At the bottom of the hill 300m further on, there is a fork in the track. The Sea Level Traverse leaves the Skyline Traverse at this point, branching left to head along the coast adjacent to the waterline. The Sea Level Traverse provides access for routes on Main Wall Left when sea and swell conditions are favourable. The Skyline Traverse follows the right hand fork which also marks the start of the climb up Mt Parsons. As you ascend following the cairned route, the Main Wall is visible to your left. About halfway up the hill a prominent line of scrub appears on the left of the track. This marks where the Mid Level Traverse branches off to the left. Following the Mid Level Traverse is the approach for bottom up routes on Main Wall Left, Centre and Right. Continuing further up the Skyline Traverse towards Mt Parsons, the Suzuki Complex is reached just before the track flattens out. This small crag is situated 10m left of the trail. This crag is close to where routes on Main Wall Centre top out. This point provides egress for routes such as Fiancetto, Kids on Skids, Lubricity and Stud City. It is also the approach via abseil for the top down route, Winning Streaks. The Skyline Traverse relents above the Suzuki Complex and flattens out for 200m. At this point you are close to where the longer routes on Main Wall Left, such as Pooch Slab, Pneisses and Japhlion, top out. This is the egress point is also the approach via abseil for top down routes such as Serial Streaker and Lucky Streak. |
GPS |
|
Main Wall Overview
Main Wall Approach Routes
★★ 1. | Skyline Traverse | 8hrs | 2-3 | ||||||||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||||||||||
First Ascent Unknown |
★★ 2. | Sea Level Traverse | 8hrs | 16 | ||||||||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||||||||||
R. Williams, L. Closs, summer 1970. |
3. | Mid Level Traverse | 40mins | 6 | ||||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||||||
First Ascent Unknown |
Main Wall Left
All routes on Main Wall Left start from the Mid Level Traverse with the exception of Lucky Streak and Serial Streaker which use a top down approach.
Pooch Slab, Pneisses and Japhlion are the farthest left routes on Main Wall Left. To reach these routes follow the Mid Level Traverse to reach the scrubby terrace near its very end. About 15m before you reach Pneisses, drop down into a patch of scrub then continue along the traverse line to reach its start. Before the drop down 25m before Pneisses, you pass the base of Japhlion. It starts off the terrace where a patch of scrub has grown up against the slab just left of a small vegetated corner.
The Sea Level Traverse can be used to approach Main Wall Left if sea and swell conditions permit. However, the Mid Level Traverse is the faster and more reliable option of the two.
Pooch Slab, Pneisses and Japhlion are the farthest left routes on Main Wall Left. To reach these routes follow the Mid Level Traverse to reach the scrubby terrace near its very end. About 15m before you reach Pneisses, drop down into a patch of scrub then continue along the traverse line to reach its start. Before the drop down 25m before Pneisses, you pass the base of Japhlion. It starts off the terrace where a patch of scrub has grown up against the slab just left of a small vegetated corner.
The Sea Level Traverse can be used to approach Main Wall Left if sea and swell conditions permit. However, the Mid Level Traverse is the faster and more reliable option of the two.
4. | Pooch Slab | 350m | 9 | ||||||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||||||||
J. Foden, S. Karpiniec Jan 1974 |
★★★ 5. | Pneisses | 240m | 15 | ||||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||||||
B. Kennedy, D. Hain, Jan 1975. |
6. | Pneisses (Direct Start) | 230m | 19 | ||||||||
| |||||||||||
A. Herington, B. Kennedy Jun 1984. |
★★ 7. | Japhlion | 250m | 16 | ||||||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||||||||
B. Kennedy, D. Hain, Jan 1974 |
8. | Griphon | 280m | 19 | ||||||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||||||||
D. Hain, B. Kennedy, Dec 1975. |
★★ 9. | Serial Streaker | 90m | 18 | ||||||||||
| |||||||||||||
David Stephenson, Mel Sheppherd, Sept 2024 |
★★ 10. | Lucky Streak | 85m | 17 | ||||||||||
| |||||||||||||
David Stephenson, Justin Otlowski, Mar 2023 |
11. | Trusting Rust | 230m | 18 | ||||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||||||
E. Peacock, J. Kennedy, Jun 1984 |
★ 12. | Trusting Rust Direct Start | 50m | 18 | ||
A single pitch climb in its own right. Up Japhlion for 5m, then traverse right past one bolt runner to a second bolt. Up and left slightly then straight up passing two further bolts, a cam pocket and a good wire placement to the top. Abseil off the tea tree. | |||||
G. Cooper, A. Adams, July 1991 |
★ 13. | What a Crafty Snail | 50m | 17 | ||||||
| |||||||||
G. Cooper, A. Adams, July 1991 |
14. | The Artistic Fibber | 60m | 20 | ||||||
| |||||||||
A. Adams, G. Cooper, 13 Dec 1991. |
15. | The Laughing Jackass | 65m | 19 | ||||||||
| |||||||||||
G. Cooper, R. Sellers, Jan 1990 |
★ 16. | Epaminondas | 186m/226m | 17 | ||||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||||||
Pitches 1-4: Garn Cooper, Al Adams, Jan 1990. Fat Boy variant (pitches 4a & 5): Dave Gardner, Garn Cooper, Fat Boy Buckley, Mar 1993 |
Main Wall Centre
All the routes on Main Wall Centre except for the Winning Streaks area start from the Mid Level Traverse. For all routes from Stud City left, take the lower level variant under the base of the prominent slab, passing the starts of Touch and Go and Slippery Slope. The lower variant climbs back up to regain the traverse line at Stud City. Routes are described from Left to Right and follow on from the Laughing Jackass on Main Wall Left Hand Side.
17. | Fianchetto | 140m | 18 | ||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||||
G. Cooper, B. Kennedy, Feb 1988. |
18. | Auntie Helen, There's Something Furry In Your Fridge | 143m | 18 | ||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||||
G. Cooper, P. Cullen, Feb 1988. |
19. | Cosmic City Flameout | 150m | 19 | ||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
B. Kennedy, P. Cullen, Jan 1977. |
★★ 20. | Don't Land On The Lunch | 93m | 20 | ||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
Al Adams, Garn Cooper, Pete Steane, Jan 1990. Direct finish Matt Perchard, J.Keane, Dec 1990. |
★★ 21. | Kids On Skids | 95m | 17 | ||||||||||
| |||||||||||||
Garn Cooper, Al Adams, alt, Jan 1988. |
22. | Tic Tac Toe | 15m | 25 | ||
Climbs the overhanging crack between Lubricity and Kids on Skids. Head right to Lubricity once topped out over lip. | |||||
Kim Robinson 12 Aug 2001. |
23. | Lubricity | 105m | 22 | ||||||||||
| |||||||||||||
Pitch 1: A. Potito, R. Eccleston Jul 1993. Pitch 2-3: A. Hasan, G. Cooper, A. Herington, M.Sands, Jun 1992. |
★★★ 24. | Winning Streaks | 115m | 18 | Þ | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Dave Stephenson and Stu Scott, October 2018 |
25. | Hootin And Jivin | 90m | 22 | ||||||||||
| |||||||||||||
Garn Cooper, B. Kennedy, Feb 1988. |
★★ 26. | Streak Seeker | 80m | 19 | Þ | |||||||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||||||||||
David Stephenson and Stuart Ferguson, December 2024 |
27. | Torstein And Back | 16m | 19 | ||
How can you ignore a line like this? Approx. 4m above the first belay on Hootin and Jivin (belay there). Traverse along the flake to the right. Continue up RP Freedom Seeker, or Stud City, or whatever. | |||||
G.Cooper, M.Sands, Nov 1991. |
The descent for the next few climbs is serviced by either abseil or by continuing upward to meet the Skyline Traverse.
Abseil routes:
1) From the top of Stud City scramble (roped up) up a bit and then left across ledges for 35m to the middle DBB of Streak Seeker. Rap 45m to the next DBB and then 55m to the ground.
2) From the top of Stud City scramble (roped up) right for 30m to a bigger ledge where on the edge of the slab you will see a tree with a sling on it. Rap 50m from here to a huge ledge covered in trees. From this ledge walk down about 10m towards the next drop off where you will see a tree beside a small gully. Rap 30m from here to the ground.
Skyline Traverse Egress: From the top of Stud City you can climb up to a tree-filled corner above (you might want to stay roped up) and continue scrambling upwards till you intersect with the Skyline Traverse before descending it.
Abseil routes:
1) From the top of Stud City scramble (roped up) up a bit and then left across ledges for 35m to the middle DBB of Streak Seeker. Rap 45m to the next DBB and then 55m to the ground.
2) From the top of Stud City scramble (roped up) right for 30m to a bigger ledge where on the edge of the slab you will see a tree with a sling on it. Rap 50m from here to a huge ledge covered in trees. From this ledge walk down about 10m towards the next drop off where you will see a tree beside a small gully. Rap 30m from here to the ground.
Skyline Traverse Egress: From the top of Stud City you can climb up to a tree-filled corner above (you might want to stay roped up) and continue scrambling upwards till you intersect with the Skyline Traverse before descending it.
★ 28. | RP Freedomseeker | 100m | 17 | ||||||||||
| |||||||||||||
Garn Cooper, Al Adams, B. Kennedy, Mar 1991. |
29. | Hard Very Mossy (HVM) | 35 m | 10 | ||
Not so much a climb as a traverse across easy ground to reach the bolt belays on Streak Seeker and Winning Streaks. From the top belay of Well Hung Left, head direct up the pillar/flake for 4m onto the slab, then head off left along the easy but mossy slabs and ledge system. | |||||
M. Johnston, C. Movita Nov. 2022 |
★★ 30. | Well Hung Left | 85m | 19 | ||||||||||
| |||||||||||||
H Jackson and S Joseph March 2021 |
31. | Well Hung Right | 50m | 18 | ||
Exciting stuff following a direct continuation of Stud City's big corner. Start up S.C.'s second pitch, but instead of going right across the under-cling flake, take the cracks straight up through the roof/overlap and ultimately take the RH crack (crux, crack currently full of dirt and grass making it impossible to climb without rap cleaning it first) to the top of the slabs. Passing the overlap turns out to be relatively easy, but pretty exposed. | |||||
Hamish and Marcel Jackson Feb 1999. |
★★★ 32. | Stud City | 100m | 19 | ||||||||||
| |||||||||||||
B.Kennedy, T.Beaman, R.Muehlin, Jan 1977. FFA: H, Rock Daddy, Noel Baby. |
★★ 33. | Continuum | 100m | 17 | ||||||||||
| |||||||||||||
Hamish and Marcel Jackson Feb 1999. |
A first rate but solid link up (grade 22,19,18,19) would be to climb the first pitch of Hootin and Jivin, followed by Torstein and Back, then reverse the traverse of RP Freedomseeker to finish up the last two pitches of Stud City.
34. | Trouble In Paradise | 9m | 21 | Þ | |
Not particularly appealing, this bolted route is 20m right of Stud City, just left of a corner. The first two bolts are missing hangers, but take wires to slide over them. There is a single bolt belay and lower off. | |||||
R. Parkyn, C. Bye, Nov 1992. |
35. | Leo's Retreat | 160m | 15 | ||||||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||||||||
C. Rathbone, G. Kowalik, P. Robinson, Nov 1976. |
Main Wall Right
With the exception of the lower slab routes Touch and Go and Slippery Slope, all the routes on Main Wall Right start from the Mid Level Traverse upper variant, which scrambles up and above the lower slab on a sketchy ledge system to access the routes between the Reprieve and Gunboat Diplomat.
36. | The Reprieve | 90m | 18 | ||||||||
| |||||||||||
B. Kennedy, D. Bowman, Dec 1976. |
Touch and Go and Slippery Slope are located on the the polished slabs directly below Jack Shit and Trucks Have Wings. Start from the Mid Level Traverse lower variant.
★★ 37. | Touch and Go | 30m | 21 | 12Þ | |
Lovely. The bolted polished water streak 6m left of Slippery Slope. The crux comes in the first 10m. DBB at top. | |||||
David Stephenson and Stu Scott, August 2019 |
★★ 38. | Slippery Slope | 30m | 21 | 7Þ | |
Delicate climbing up the bolted left leaning seam on the polished slabs below Trucks Have Wings. The difficulties ease considerably after the first 3 bolts. DBB at top. The smooth slab between Slippery Slope and Touch and Go goes at grade 22/23 and can be top roped from either set of anchors - a decision was made to not bolt it due to proximity to the other routes. | |||||
David Stephenson and Ben Maddison, August 2020 |
39. | Jack Shit | 45m | 17 | ||
A dirty adventure, which with a good cleaning effort or much traffic might become a good climb. Start as for Trucks Have Wings, clipping it's first two bolts before traversing left past the first crack to climb the second one. The direct start was done on top-rope by the second. | |||||
Garn Cooper, P.Sullivan, Adam Potito, Mar 1993. |
★★ 40. | Trucks Have Wings | 45m | 18 | ||
Great climbing that is challenging for the grade. The first crack left of Havahorror. Climb the slab past two bolts (crux), move right into the crack. Up this and the slab above. A short and easy traverse / down-climb to the right gets you to the Full Sail Rap Anchor (stay roped up). | |||||
A.Hasan, Garn Cooper, Jun 1992. |
★ 41. | Havahorror | 45m | 21 | ||
The first line left of Full Sail, often a bit dirty, but cleaning it is easy if you do one of the other routes first. Up the fine left facing corner. | |||||
Doug Fife, L.Minami, Dec 1982. |
Rap anchors exist to service the next few climbs can be found at the top of Full Sail.
★★ 42. | Full Sail Direct | 36m | 20 | ||
A few metres left of Full Sail below a bolt at 5m. Climb via the bolt into Full Sail and up this line to the top. | |||||
Doug Fife, L.Minami, Dec 1982. |
★★ 43. | Full Sail | 40m | 19 | ||||||
| |||||||||
K. Lindorff, K. Roseberry, Jan 1977. |
★ 44. | Full Sail Ahead | 40m | 22 | ||||||
| |||||||||
Andrew [Squib] Cubbon & Isaac Lethborg, Oct 2017 |
★ 45. | The Smell of an Oily Rag | 65m | 20 | ||
A worthwhile outing and a mega single pitch tbat will fulfill your narcissistic desires. The hardest moves are at the start but the top is enticingly bold. Start up Full Sail Direct until 3m above roof, then traverse R into corner/ledge system and up right to arching overlap. Along this to its R end, up and over, step right to a good cam in a horizontal. Blast up the slab aiming for the anchors on The Axiom (FA went up black streak but follow your nose). | |||||
Alex Lewis and Kate Tasker Aug 2015 |
★★★ 46. | The Axiom | 30m | 24 | 9Þ | |
Start at the base of the waterwashed groove 30m right of Full Sail. Follow 9 bolts up the polished groove to a large ledge and rap anchors. The crux is overcoming the two inital bulges and is technical but not strenuous. | |||||
Sam Edwards, Garry Phillips, Roger Parkyn, Sep 1994. |
★★★ 47. | Gunboat Diplomat | 30 m | 26 | 11Þ | |
Shares the first two bolts with The Axiom before heading off right. Eleven fixed hangers and finishes at same anchor as Axiom. Crux passing the fourth bolt then sustained 23 to the top. | |||||
M. Johnston, C. Movita Nov. 2022 |
The Suzuki Complex
The Suzuki Complex is a small crag situated directly above where routes on Main Wall Centre culminate. The crag is 10m left of the Skyline Traverse below Mt Parsons and 30 minutes walk from Sleepy Bay carpark. The cliff faces towards the sea. Consult the Main Wall Centre topo to view the climbs on this crag.
48. | Luxury Leather Goods | 15m | 19 | ||
Ascends the steep curving crack initally on fingers then widening to hands. The route is 2m left of the arete that is left of The Bullshit Factor. | |||||
Roger Parkyn Jan 1991. |
49. | The Bullshit Factor | 15m | 20 | ||
The uncompromising dihedral whose left wall is slightly overhanging. Sustained. | |||||
Jack Keane Jan 1991 |
50. | Osmotic Tension | 15m | 21 | ||
Take the crack straight above the base of the leaning gum tree, 20m right of The Bullshit Factor. Good wires protect the face above. | |||||
Roger Parkyn Jan 1991 |
The Underworld
This crag is found by heading down towards the water where the Skyline Traverse leaves the Sea-level Traverse. There is an ampitheatre of steep pink granite undercut by a large cave.
51. | Corner Part-2 | 12m | 18 | ||
As you traverse down the southern side of the crag you pass a series of short easy corners. This is the closest to the sea with a small roof at the top, starts off a terrace 12m above the ocean. | |||||
Roxanne Wells, Pete Steane, Apr 1994. |
52. | The Wind Below | 12m | 26 | Þ | |
The arête just right of Corner Part-2 (with rusty carrots). | |||||
Gordon Poultney, Donna Bridge 1997. |
★★ 53. | Jabberwock | 27m | 22 | ||
Steep, strenuous and well protected. Starts left of the caves entrance. Step R then steeply to horizontal, left 3m to flake, up this to thinner flake above. | |||||
Pete Steane, Roxanne Wells, Apr 1994. |
★ 54. | Slithy Tove | 24m | 24 | ||
First half as for Jabberwock, but rather than traversing left to flake, traverse right 2m past a hole to another crack, follow this through overlap with good pro. | |||||
Pete Steane, Roxanne Wells, Apr 1994. FFA R. Parkyn 1997. |
★★★ 55. | Via Magna | 20m | 26 | Þ | |
Out the left side of the cave past many bits of glue and metal. | |||||
John Fisher, Mar 1995. |
56. | Travels by Dragonfly | 20m | 27 | Þ | |
Right of the cave. Follow the line of bolts from the hanging belay. | |||||
Dave Jones, Gordon Poultney, 22 Feb 1995. |
★★ 57. | Nunc Dimitis | 16m | 24 | Þ | |
The wall with 4 bolts right of Travels by Dragonfly. A boulder problem start out of a slot and exit right avoiding the final wall at the top. No anchor. Superb. | |||||
John Fisher Mar 1995 |
58. | Waters of Oblivion | 20m | 22 | ||
The sculpted arête on the right edge of the Underworld provides a struggle, with a final harder move well left of the arête. The rock and the climbing aren't that good. Originally climbed with a long sling protecting the hard upper moves, the first ascentionist planned to return and place a bolt. He never did, but feel free. | |||||
John Fisher Mar 1995. |
★★ 59. | Superbrinkmanslip | 15m | 22 | ||
A wonderful deep-water solo, on the seaward side of the huge fish shaped boulder, at the northern entrance to the Underworld. Abseil to a stance on a ledge below the mouth and get a friend to pull up the rope. Climb small pockets to a L leading traverse. Follow this and finish straight up to the ridge. | |||||
Nick Hancock Feb 2003. |
Insomnia Wall
At the last gulch on the track to Sleepy Bay, descend to the very steep north facing wall by the sea.
★★ 60. | Insomnia | 10m | 25 | 5Þ | |
Left-hand line with a sloper start. Lower off. | |||||
Nick Hancock Apr 2004. |
61. | Project | 10m | 4Þ |
★ 62. | Weffy | 10m | 22 | 5Þ | |
From cairn climb right then up to lower off. | |||||
Doug McConnell Apr 2004. |
Overview
Content Tools