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<guide guidestars="*" pagesize="500" version="2"> <header access="To getHead to the cliffhamlet headof towardsDeddington, theand Northernturn Escarpmentonto ofEnglish BenTown LomondRoad. TurnFollow offthis thefor highway13km from(it Launcestonbecomes ontoRagged BenJack LomondRd Rdat (as if heading towards the ski-field and usual climbing areas), but after about 1km turn right onto Ragged Jack Rd (this is the first right from the highway). Follow this for about 8km until you reach a road named RJ7, turn left into this and drive as far as you dare (not that far in 2WD, but further in 4WD). There is a pull out and possible camping site (but no water) a few hundred metres in. It is probably at least a 2 hr mostly uphill walk to the crag from here.<br/><br/>From the pull out, the road is quite steep and rocky in sections, but a half-decent 4WD should get you to the crossing over O'Plains Creek. If the creek crossing looks a bit beyond you, it is possible to park and camp at the creek. There is a pull out just before the creek with enough room to turn a vehicle, and tent sites on the road either side of the creek - though they are a bit rocky.<br/><br/>some point), until you reach unmarked RJ7 turn off on the right. This is roughly 700m past big u bend in the road where it crosses River O'Plain Creek. There is a pull out and possible camping site (but no water) a few hundred metres in near a locked gate. It is a 2 hr mostly uphill walk to the crag from here.<br/><br/>OLD ACCESS (Left in case bridge is repaired some day): Head towards the Northern Escarpment of Ben Lomond. Turn off the highway from Launceston onto Ben Lomond Rd (as if heading towards the ski-field and usual climbing areas), but after about 1km turn right onto Ragged Jack Rd (this is the first right from the highway). Follow this for about 8km until you reach a road named RJ7, turn left into this and drive as far as you dare (not that far in 2WD, but further in 4WD). <br/><br/>Follow the road uphill, crossing River O'Plain Creek after about 40 minutes. After the creek crossing the track bends to the left and heads uphill. Shortly after it flattens out (about 25 mins walk from the creek) there is a bushwalkers track on the right marked with cairns and red/white tin lid tags. Head easily up this to an open grassy area (15 mins) - the crag is now visible up and to the right, just below the northern summit. From here head across the scree, planning your route so as to avoid the bands of scrub (pass them on the left). After the track flattens out head through the maze of animal tracks through the bush until just below the northern summit (about 30 mins from the open grassy area to the top of the crag).<br/><br/>A few hundred meters past the bushwalkers cairns/tags on the 4WD track is a climbers cairn marked with an X. Just past this;" acknowledgement="By Roger Parkyn, originally published in Craglets" history="" intro="Ragged Jack is a nicepeak campsiteoff on the leftnorth inwest aof grassyBen meadowLomond. -There ifare yourmany carmore makesroutes itthan upare thislisted farhere, but this is a sampler of the routes at bestthe placeeasy to camp. This cairn marks find Gaba Tepe area, in particular the starthigh ofquality aroutes trackon whichthe isANZAC supposedly a better way to walk up if starting from the upper campsiteCove buttress. The climbing is typical of this region - dolerite columns. The 4WDcolumns trackat continuesRagged onJack forare severalvery kmpure, and passingnot more severalthan major50m cliffs,in bothheight. onThe theroute leftdescriptions andare right.fairly Somebrief, ofbut thesethe havelines routesspeak onfor themthemselves apparently,and butshould therebe isable majorto potentialbe forfound newby routesreferring outto therethe iftopo you(supplied ownby a bomber 4WD or are prepared to walk for hours and hours." acknowledgement="By Roger Parkyn, originally published in Craglets" history="" intro="Ragged Jack is a peak off the north west of Ben Lomond. There are many more routes than are listed here, butBob McMahon)." name="Ragged Jack" rock="Alpine dolerite columns, single pitch" sun="All day sun" walk="40 min (minimum) up to 2 hrs" id="1" camping="A few hundred meters past the bushwalkers cairns/tags on the 4WD track is a climbers cairn marked with an X. Just past this is a nice samplercampsite ofon the routesleft atin thea easygrassy tomeadow find- Gabaif Tepeyour area,car inmakes particularit theup highthis qualityfar, routesthis onis the best ANZACplace Coveto buttresscamp. This Thecairn climbingmarks isthe typicalstart of this region - dolerite columns. The columns at Ragged Jack are very pure, and not more than 50m in heighta track which is supposedly a better way to walk up if starting from the upper campsite. The route4WD descriptionstrack arecontinues fairlyon brief,for butseveral thekm, linespassing speak for themselves and should be able to be found by referring to the topo (supplied by Bob McMahon)." name="Ragged Jack" rock="Alpine dolerite columns, single pitch" sun="All day sun" walk="40 min (minimum) up to 2 hrs" id="1" camping=""several major cliffs, both on the left and right. Some of these have routes on them apparently, but there is major potential for new routes out there if you are prepared to walk for hours and hours." autonumber="false"/> <image noPrint="false" src="ragged jack map.png" width="" id="2" height="725"/> <text id="16" class="heading3">Quinns Buttress</text> <text id="17" class="text">The top of the route Quinns can be identified by locating the leaning block on top of the crag in the topo (in Memory of a Journey). This is to the climbers right as they top out from the underground chimney. These routes look epic to access scrambling into the base, abseiling in directly down the buttress is recommended.</text> <climb id="18" stars="" extra="" number="" name="Bomba Sirt" length="40m" grade="17" fa="Dean Rollins, Lisa Boyle, Feb 2013.">The line L of Quinns with a large hakea at the base. Climb up the hakea, pull into the hand/fist crack and follow this to a small ledge at 10m. Up wider crack above past an assortment of holds, chockstones and horizontal breaks. Finish up short squeeze chimney and belay in large alcove just below the top.</climb> <climb id="19" stars="" extra="" number="" name="Quinns" length="35m" grade="21" fa=""/> <text id="20" class="heading3">Lone Pine Buttress</text> <text id="21" class="text">The buttress between Quinns Buttress and Anzac Cove with a couple of prominent lines. Access via abseil from the top.</text> <climb id="22" stars="" extra="" number="" name="Blood in the Trenches" length="40m" grade="20" fa="">Looks alright but is filled with grass, dirt and trees.</climb> <climb id="23" stars="" extra="" number="" name="Lone Pine" length="40m" grade="18" fa="">Nice looking line that climbs well, with a tricky move down low and a solid remainder. The route is a tad dirty and would greatly benefit from a brush (but it is still climbable).</climb> <text id="14" class="heading3">ANZAC Cove</text> <text id="15" class="text">This compact amphitheatre has the highest concentration of quality routes in the area and is well worth a visit. However, as with all areas that are not frequently visited, negotiating moss and lichen are as much a part of the challenge as the climbing itself. Consider rapping your chosen line and giving it a brush on the way down (or bribing your belayer to do so).<br/><br/>Access to the base is best via abseil. With a few metres of tape/cord, it is usually not too much of a hassle to rig your anchor so that the rope pulls; otherwise bring a spare rope to fix. It’s also possible to scramble down the descent gully at the far LH end of the crag.</text> <image noPrint="false" src="ben lomond ragged jack.png" width="" id="3" height="847">null</image> <climb extra="" grade="18" length="20m" name="Sniper's Ridge" number="" stars="*" id="4" fa="Mike Collie.">The crack splitting the arête at the LH end of Anzac Cove. Delightful jams, jugs and layaways.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="20" name="The Nek" id="5" fa="Robert McMahon." stars="" number="" length="22m">Climb the corner with two cracks immediately R of Sniper's Ridge, mostly using the L crack. Tricky down low and harder than it looks.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="20" name="Chunnuk Bair" id="6" fa="Steve Moon." stars="**" number="" length="25m">Open book corner L of C.E.W. Bean, with a small hakea at the base. Lots of flared hand and finger jams; technical, insecure and interesting all the way.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="23" length="28m" name="C.E.W. Bean" id="7" fa="Robert McMahon, Feb 1984." stars="***" number="">Twin finger cracks in a recessed column. Sustained thin bridging.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="19" length="30m" name="Tin Trigger" number="" stars="**" id="8" fa="Mick Ling.">A great pitch up the the twin crack system R of C.E.W. Bean.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="21" name="The Landing" id="10" fa="Neale Smith." stars="*" number="" length="30m">The corner R of Tin Trigger with a V-groove at the top.<br/></climb> <climb extra="" grade="21" length="45m" name="Blood and Iron" id="11" fa="John Fantini, Feb 1984." stars="***" number="">An unrelenting pitch of sustained finger locking and fine bridging for 30m, followed by a short pitch of grade 19 jamming.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="23" length="45m" name="Too Low for Zero" id="12" fa="John Fantini, Feb 1984." stars="**" number="">The spearing sustained crack. Finger jam the first 25m until the crack blanks out completely. Bridge (crux) to a small 1cm wide hand hold, then stretch for flared jams and an awkward grade 20 finger crack for the final 15m.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="21" length="48m" name="It's a Long Way from Tipperary" id="13" fa="G.Narkowicz, M.Ling, Feb 1984.">The fourth line from the far right - and the offwidth of all offwidths. Brilliant face climbing (crux) for the first 10m leads to a nice but ever widening crack. The finger-crack is nice; the hand-crack is better; the fist-crack is bearable; the offwidth (no runners) is horrible!</climb> </guide> |
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