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Introduction | Mt Wellington offers some good opportunities for bouldering. Its a bit scattered, and dolerite is an acquired taste for bouldering. But there are lots of problems, particularly moderates with easy access for after work climbing. | ||||||
Access | From the centre of Hobart drive up Davey Street, which becomes Huon Road, for 9.6km. Just before Fern Tree a well sign posted road (Pillinger Drive) leads off sharply to the right and winds up the mountain. Keep going up the road to reach the Summit. Plenty of parking at the summit. |
GPS |
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★ 1. | My Hump | V3 | (SDS) | ||
Sitstart and pull through bulge on side pulls |
2. | Arse Crack Tattoo | V0 | (SDS) | ||
Crack |
3. | VE | (Stand) | |||
Easy crack |
★ 4. | Rock Farmin' | V2 | (Stand) | ||
Nice friction slab up to flake. Don't use crack to the left. |
★ 5. | Skin Graft | V3 | (Stand) | ||
Up pillar using friction and trying to avoid skin loss. Again you can make it easier or harder depending exactly which holds you use. |
6. | VE | (Stand) | |||
Easy face |
★★ 7. | Traction | V2 | (Stand) | ||
Up the face using the right arete. There is also a variant using the left arete. |
8. | V0 | (Stand) | |||
Mossy corner and arete around to the right of Traction. |
9. | VE | (Stand) | |||
Slab and flake. |
★ 10. | America, Fuck Yeah! | V4 | (SDS) | ||
Sit start at break, up on edges. |
★ 11. | Vanstone | V3 | (SDS) | ||
Use break and crack, then head left and up to the rounded top. |
12. | V2 | (Stand) | |||
Layback up arete. Sitstart is a project. |
★ 13. | Daves Pillar | V2 | (Stand) | ||
Up front of Pillar. |
14. | V0 | (Stand) | |||
Side of pillar |
15. | V0 | (Stand) | |||
Back of pillar |
16. | V0 | (Stand) | |||
Slabby arete |
★ 17. | Friction ain't Fiction | V4 | (Stand) | ||
Span the face then add some fancy footwork. |
18. | V0 | (Stand) | |||
Up the crack. |
19. | V3 | (SDS) | |||
Start with a hand jam in the crack, then pull up left over pillar. |
20. | V? | (SDS) | |||
Project - slopey face |
21. | V1 | (Stand) | |||
Seam on left of blank slab |
22. | V2 | (Stand) | |||
Arete and slab |
23. | V1? | (Stand) | |||
Slab left of arete |
24. | V? | (Stand) | |||
Project - traverse around the buttress |
★ 25. | V0 | (Stand) | |||
Nice crack and face. |
26. | V? | (SDS) | |||
Awkward start straddling the rock. |
27. | V0 | (Stand) | |||
Nice slab. |
★★ 28. | Honey Eater | V4 | (SDS) | ||
Start sitting on the rock, feet on the detached flake, head for the slopey rail. | |||||
Dave Humphries Mar 2019 |
29. | Not so Fast | V2 | (SDS) | ||
Climbs the arete right of Honey Eater. |
★ 30. | VE | (Stand) | |||
Climb the slab using LH edges. |
★ 31. | VE | (Stand) | |||
Climb 1m right of previous using only slab technique. |
32. | Pimple Left | V1 | (SDS) | ||
Start to the left of the crack/seam. |
33. | Pimple Right | V0 | (SDS) | ||
Start on the right arete. |
★ 34. | Contrivance | V0 | (Stand) | ||
Use the holds to the left of the crack. Head left at the top. |
35. | V1 | (Stand) | |||
Start on the sloping jug at head height with poor feet. |
★ 36. | Uneasy | V2 | (Stand) | ||||||
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★ 37. | V2 | (Stand) | |||
Chin up on crimps then mantle on slopes. Tough looking sit. |
38. | Core warmup | V0 | (SDS) | ||
Fun in its own way. Start on the layaway, feet on the next block. |
39. | Shoulders and Legs | V0 | (SDS) | ||
Start on the rounded undercling rock over and press out the mantle. |
40. | Fingers and arms | V0 | (SDS) | ||
Layaway on the tallest of the dwarf boulders. |
41. | V2 | (SDS) | |||
To the right of Grunt, follow the holds right. |
42. | Grunt | V2 | (SDS) | ||
Grab the pinch and head for the top. Harder if your short, easier if your tall. |
★★★ 43. | Cool and Cloudy | V5 | (SDS) | ||
The leaning line 3m left of Grunt. Classic steep slope problem. Compression sit start with right hand on slopey side pull rail and left on the leftest lowest big side pull. Stand start is V3. |
44. | Grotto | VE | |||
5m Right of Slopey Slide.Start in the hole and jug it to the top. |
45. | Slopey slide | V2 | |||
Climb the arete to the top. |
46. | V0 | ||||
Start to the right of the nose. Climb up and around. |
47. | Under cling project | V? | |||
Start with both hands on rounded undercling. Finish on the slopey topout |
48. | Tomb of the unknown skin surgeon | V3 | |||
Start with a hand on the good sidepull and one on the lip jug. |
49. | Small man's crack | V1 | (Sit) | ||
Sit start, layback to the left, and straight up. | |||||
M & C Reekie 2023 |
★ 50. | Small man's campus | V2 | (Hang) | ||
Hang start on the obvious jug, power up to precise crimps and then again to the top. Short and smooth. | |||||
C & M Reekie 2023. |
★★ 51. | Sideways | V3 | (Stand) | ||
Climb the left arete of the face. |
★ 52. | Head on | VE | (Stand) | ||
Enjoyable easy arete. |
53. | Unclimbed |
54. | Unclimbed |
55. | Unclimbed |
56. | Unclimbed |
57. | VE | (Stand) | |||
Three metres right of the unclimbed problems. Up over the block sitting on the block. Careful as the top block is large and moves slightly. |
58. | VE | (Stand) | |||
Follow crack to the top |
★ 59. | The day of the tourist | V2 | (Stand) | ||
Start using slopes and big foot hold. Rockover. |
60. | Unclimbed | (SDS) | |||
Start on pinch and crimp. |
★ 61. | Samosa | V0 | (SDS) | ||
Use layaway and pinch finish left |
62. | V1 | (SDS) | |||
Use the diagonal. |
63. | V2 | (SDS) | |||
Straight up the seam. |
64. | V0 | (Stand) | |||
Step into the undercling. |
65. | V2 | (Stand) | |||
Slab the wall right of the undercling. Jumping directly to the top is V0. |
66. | Warm up 1 | VE | (SDS) | ||
Span the boulder using right arete. |
67. | Core Utility | V4 | (SDS) | ||
Lay off the rail using any feet. |
68. | Warm up 2 | VE | (SDS) | ||
Simple grab and yank. |
★ 69. | Dubious pleasure | V3 | (SDS) | ||
A nice compression problem. Sit with one cheek on the block and one hand in the crack. There are a range of variations possible including jamming the crack then finishing through the off-width. |
★ 70. | Tradly | V0 | (Stand) | ||
Start on the small chockstone and pinch. More like climbing than bouldering. Find the easiest way to the top. |
★ 71. | Chunky | V3 | (Hang) | ||
Start on the undercling and sidepull in the corner. Only use the corner chunks to the top. |
72. | V? | ||||
Lesser line in the corner up the right hand pillar. |
73. | V? | (Stand) | |||
Nicest line here, span until you run out of holds... |
★ 74. | V2 | (SDS) | |||
Up steeply on jugs |
75. | V2 | (Stand) | |||
Crappy problem on loose face |
★ 76. | V2 | (Stand) | |||
Slap up rounded column. Could have a very hard sit start. |
★ 77. | V0 | (Stand) | |||
Nice slab. |
78. | V0 | (Stand) | |||
Face on boulder 10m up the hill. |
79. | VE | ||||
Traverse the top of the block |
★ 80. | V0 | (Stand) | |||
Start on the ramp and undercling the crack. |
★★ 81. | Squeeze | V4 | (SDS) | ||
Squeeze and pinch your way to the top. | |||||
Dave Humphries 2018 |
★★★ 82. | Free Treasure | V8 | (SDS) | ||
Sit start under the prow, bust up to the curved rail then launch for the jug. One of the best on the mountain. | |||||
Raul Schwarz, 2024 |
★★ 83. | Huntsman | V3 | (Hang) | ||
Hang start at back of column, climb out and up. This is a fair bit harder since a scab of rock containing an important foothold fell off. |
84. | V2 | (SDS) | |||
Small column to the right |
★ 85. | Rough Justice | V2 | (SDS) |
★ 86. | Chonka | V6 | (SDS) | ||
Start with lip sloper and the undercling sidepull thing down low. Hard start to a balancy finish. |
87. | V0 | (SDS) | |||
Up on jugs. There is a variation that's a bit harder, heading left at the crack to the vertical edge then up. |
★★ 88. | Tangle | V5 | (SDS) | ||
Great problem spanning the pillar. Start on the pinch and low crack edge with poor feet. The stand is worthwhile and a grade or two easier. |
★ 89. | Slab Direct | V0 | (Stand) | ||
Step onto the slab and head straight to the top on the left side. |
★ 90. | Slab | VE | (Stand) | ||
Step onto the slab and head right to the good edge. |
★ 91. | Tin Tacks | V5 | (SDS) | ||
Low ball, with plenty of action. |
★ 92. | Ambidextrous | V4 | (SDS) | ||
After the start their are two worthwhile alternatives at about the same grade with different styles. Left: Start on the rail and slopey pinch with feet under, head for the high sidepull. Right: Start on the rail and slopey pinch with feet under, head to the slopes out right. | |||||
Dave Humphries Mar 2019 |
93. | Huby | V2 | (SDS) | ||||||
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Dave Humphries Mar 2019 |
94. | V? | (SDS) | |||
The stand start is a nice warmup. The sit start is a project. |
95. | Ringside | V3 | (SDS) | ||
Start with hands opposed on column and feet on holds either side. |
96. | Luv Yuz All | V4 | (SDS) | ||
Start on the jug dyno to the lip then mantle over the top. |
97. | Punched in the Ring | V3 | (SDS) | ||
Start on the jug dyno to the right and mantle the top or move up the rail. |
★★★ 98. | Body Blow | V4 | (Highball, Stand) | ||
Up the slopey rail to the top. (Downgraded since a flake has been dislodged that makes it easier) Still a classic problem. |
99. | Unclimbed line | V7? | (SDS) | ||
Climb the arete to the left of Body Blow. Unclimbed, but on superb rock and some interesting lines. |
100. | VE | (SDS) | |||
Sit start wit good holds. Up the down-hill side on even better holds. Top out on the best of holds. | |||||
M Hitchcock 2017 |
101. | Off-boarding, what? | V2 | (Stand) | ||
Mantle the blank bulge. The top rock is a little wobbly, but fine. | |||||
M Hitchcock 2017 |
102. | VE | (Stand) | |||
To the right of "Off-boarding". Climb the easy bulge. More push than pull. | |||||
M Hitchcock 2017 |
★ 103. | Dear Boss | V1 | (SDS) | ||
Sit start the short 45 overhang. RH on side pull and LH on arete. Easy up. | |||||
M Hitchcock 2017 |
104. | I'm free! | VE | (SDS) | ||
Sit start the scoop. Up and slightly left to top out. | |||||
M Hitchcock 2017 |