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Introduction | Lost World is a popular subsidiary crag on the mountain and is best known for its variety of steep and unrelenting crack climbs. However, there are also some stunning arêtes and face climbs as well. Lost World is located just to the North of the Pipes on the eastern side of Mount Arthur at an elevation of 1100m. Being relatively sheltered and with quick and easy access, it is often warmer than the Pipes and retreat is simple in the event of sudden inclement weather. Some of the early first generation sport climbs at New World still have glued carrots with large heads and no rap stations. So you will need to access some large hangers. | ||||||
Access | About 9.5km up the Pinnacle Road from Fern Tree a prominent sweeping bend turns back on itself. This is the Big Bend, complete with small carpark (GPS MTW300). A number of smaller parking bays are available nearby if the main one is full. Great views of Lost World (also New World and Test World) open up as you drive the last km to the bend. There are two ways to the crag. First, cross the road and small creek. Continue over the stepping stones past a track signpost for 50m to an inconspicuous fork in the track. The intersection is marked by the first of a series of orange triangular track markers. 1. Usual access is to the Lactos Rap Station. From the fork in the track, take the indistinct track off to the right (GPS MTW310). Marked below as the Yellow Dot track. The initial section of this track has no markers. The pad becomes more obvious though and after 150m, red plastic markers appear. Continue following the track as it descends through trees for about 10 minutes down to a boulder field and the top of the cliff. 2. To access the right hand end of Lost World, don't take the right fork but continue straight ahead along the well-travelled path marked with the orange triangles (marked below as the Red Dot track) for about 15 minutes which leads over a small ridge then downhill to reach the base of the right hand end of the cliff. This is the usual bushwalkers access. |
Descent | There is a rap station at the top of Lactos, near the centre of the cliff (most people fix a rope). Follow the Yellow Dot track to the boulder field (as noted under Access) and descend a short path straight to the cliff edge. Once at the top of the cliff, walk left along a ledge for 12m passing a snow gum. The Lactos rap station is at the far end of the ledge (GPS MTW320). Some of the climbs also have lower-offs, but those without end in easy top-outs with ample natural anchors. Walking back to the Lactos rap-station is straightforward. If you are unable to locate the rap station, go back up to the boulder field, head left and pick up some very faded yellow spots painted on boulders. Follow the paint spots down and left to a scramble down a short body chimney. The bottom of the chimney leads into the Southern Descent gully (GPS MTW330), which comes out at the base of Lost World at the left hand end between Incredible Journey and CC's. For the routes at the right hand end of Lost World, continue following the orange triangular markers across the horizontal columns at the base of the cliff. This is an excellent spot to view the cliff line and determine the best route access to the bottom of climbs. The central gully is not recommended as an access/descent route as it is loose, slippery and eroded. |
GPS |
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1. | Good Behaviour | 25m | 18 | ||||||||
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E. Peacock, A. Herington, Sep 1982. Direct start: O. Prall, R. Parkyn, Jan 1992. |
★ 2. | Electric Chair | 20m | 19 | ||
A clean line that takes the steep crack left of Incredible Journey. Up the thin crack to a small roof at 3m and turn it on its right to a ledge, then jam and layback the fist crack to the top. | |||||
A. Herington, E. Peacock, Sep 1982. |
3. | Incredible Journey | 10m | 17 | ||
Just left of the descent gully is a short, steep hand crack in a shallow groove. Climb the crack past an awkward move to the top. | |||||
D. Stephenson, N. Deka, 1989. |
4. | CC's | 20m | 22 | ||
On the right arête of the descent gully is a thin line that goes through a bulge and up the left edge of the prominent slab. Wires in the thin crack are good and the problem is best tackled by climbing the arête. From the top of the slab follow the easy yellow corner to top. Alternative start: Enchilada (15). Climb the big corner in the descent gully left of CC's to join up with the yellow corner. | |||||
D. Gray, R. Parkyn, Jan 1992. |
5. | Tacho | 20m | 20 | ||
The original route on the prominent slab 2m right of CC's. Climb to the left of the stepped roofs, up a thin crack, to below a bulge. Face climb up the left side of the bulge to the small stance on top. Straight up the slab, over the horizontal seam to the top (protect with a pin or a small cam). | |||||
M. Law, G. Child, K. Carrigan, 1978. |
6. | Black Cherry | 25m | 20 | ||
2m left of Face It is a vegetated fist crack. Start 1m left of this crack (as for Tacho) and climb up trending R past the stepped roofs. Reach right into the crack to place pro before bridging and laying away up past the bulge on Taco. Once back in the crack, continue to the top, finishing up the final crack of Face It. | |||||
A. Herington, E. Peacock, Oct 1982. |
★ 7. | Face It | 22m | 20 | ↓ | |||||||
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M. Law, G. Child, S. Parsons, Feb 1978 (original). A, Hartshorne, Jan 2019 (direct finish). |
8. | Quarryman | 25m | 18 | ||
A vegetated corner that might require even further gardening. The twin cracks between Face It and Play Dirty. An epic clean on lead. | |||||
K. Robinson, P. Robinson, Aug 1999. |
★ 9. | Play Dirty | 22m | 23 | ↓ | |
Once dirty and overgrown, recent cleaning has restored a great route which follows a flaring finger crack in the shallow corner right of Quarryman. Finger jam and layback the crack and short vegetated corner above to a lower-off. A #4 Camalot makes the top out more palatable. | |||||
G. Child, K. Carrigan, 1978. |
★ 10. | Metal Mania | 16m | 25 | 5Þ ↓ | |
Reachy. Crank up the blunt arête between Play Dirty and Glam. Scramble up to bushy ledge to start just left of Glam. Many people break off right just before the top. Take a #0 Friend for above the last bolt if you want to avoid a long run-out past the more direct finish, which is slightly harder. A 0.3/0.4 is optional between bolt 2 and 3. Now with U Bolts (replacing the carrots). | |||||
R. Parkyn, Feb 1992. |
★ 11. | Glam | 17m | 19 | ↓ | |
The prominent line right of Metal Mania, with a short diagonal finger crack / off-width at the top. Scramble up to a bushy ledge to start. Hand-jam to a small ledge, pull up on face holds, then follow the finger crack / off-width to the top. Lower-off the DBB at the top of Metal Mania. | |||||
Phil Steane, Pete Steane, Sep 1982. |
12. | The Space Of Disse | 10m | 22 | ↓ | |
A glorified boulder problem. The discontinuous thin crack 5m around the arête left of Atlantis. Up the sustained crack to the horizontal then rap off at the bolt. | |||||
O. Prall, Jan 1992. |
★★★ 13. | Atlantis | 25m | 21 | ||
The tradster's testpiece. Not the best crack on the mountain (as claimed by Joe Friend), but it's pretty darn good. left of Savage Journey is a dirty corner chimney and left of this is a fine looking, north facing crack line passing between roofs. Climb the crack through various widths, with the crux just below the top. | |||||
J. Friend, Jan 1975. |
★ 14. | Proteus | 28m | 20 | ||||||
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K. Robinson, C. Hewer and P. Robinson, Jan 2014. |
★★ 15. | Hejira | 30m | 23 | ||
Climb first half of Savage Journey (grade 20 hand crack to this point), until a jug and bolt can be spied on the left face. Swing onto jug and clip the bolt. Breathe deep then take the steep, sustained face and finger cracks above (well protected with wires and small cams). | |||||
H Jackson, S Joseph, T Smith, A Donaghue 2015 |
★★★ 16. | Savage Journey | 30m | 22 | ||
Hands... Off-hands... Fists... This will sort the crack masters from those who are not! On the gently overhanging wall right of Atlantis are two cracks, take the left hand line. Climb the steep and ever widening crack all the way. | |||||
H. Barber, Apr 1975. |
★★ 17. | Cruise Air | 30m | 22 | ||
The prominent crack right of Savage Journey will test your resolve. Climb the crack system, moving right at the obvious transition to follow the main line, which gradually widens to off-width. Take some big cams for the top (#4, #5 & #6). | |||||
P. Bigg, S. Parsons, Apr 1982. |
18. | Cheshire Cat (Project) | 25m | Þ ↓ | ||
The arête right of Cruise Air and left of Lactos. Unfortunately lost all its holds and is awaiting an ascent going directly up the arete. | |||||
K. Robinson, Jan 2004 (29) |
★ 19. | Lactos | 22m | 21 | ↓ | |
The thin crack immediately left of the chimney (Hoot) down the abseil line. Climb the steep, thin crack-line to a small ledge. Continue up a short finger-crack corner to the top. Harder if you don't use the right wall of the chimney. Rap station at the top (on the right). | |||||
S. Parsons, P. Bigg, Apr 1982. |
20. | Hoot | 22m | 12 | ↓ | |
The chimney. Keep to the outside and finish off left at very top. | |||||
T. McKenny, D. Gray, Apr 2011. |
★ 21. | Gift of the Gaz | 22m | 29 | 9Þ ↓ | |||
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FA H Jackson 2023, bolted by Garry Phillips 2006 |
★ 22. | Carhookia | 20m | 25 | 4Þ ↓ | |
Start 3m right of the bottom of Lactos (where the abseil lands you). Optional natural gear at the bottom then 4 bolts to a lower-off. | |||||
N. Selby, 2000. |
23. | Heavenly Head Job | 20m | 18 | ||
It gets the thumbs up from Bill Clinton. The strange looking corner capped with a roof right of Carhookia. Bridge and jam the corner which becomes progressively harder. Hand jam the roof, step out left (awkward) and continue to the top, or belay and rap from the Carhookia lower-off. | |||||
Phil Steane, Sep 1982. |
24. | Stone The Crows | 25m | 18 | ||
A popular climb in the 70s, with a tricky start that can flummox newcomers. Found 10m left of the central gully and marked by a conspicuous clean off-width crack. Climb the short steep wall (difficult to protect) and continue up the wide crack above until a ledge is reached. Climb either of the two cracks to reach the top. | |||||
L. Closs, I. Lewis, Mar 1973. |
25. | Cloaca | 8m | 15 | ||
On the southern wall of the central gully. Climb the hands to offwidth crack. | |||||
D. Gray, D. Rossen, Jan 1992. |
26. | Drayton | 17m | 21 | ||
A contrived tribute to a dead poet. Start via the bolts on Back on the Borderline, then move left and stem up the corner. | |||||
D. Gray, A. Hall, Jan 1992. |
27. | Back On The Borderline | 17m | 20 | 2Þ | |
Start on the northern wall of the central gully, about 5m left of Commoner's Crown. Climb the wall past 2 bolts, then finish up the hand crack. | |||||
D. Gray, D. Rossen, Nov 1990. |
28. | Naked Flame | 17m | 23 | 5Þ | |
The arête 2m right of Back on the Borderline. Follow the line of bolts, avoiding the tempting step onto the left wall. The third clip is pretty tenuous. | |||||
D. Gray, D. Rossen, Jan 1992. |
★ 29. | Commoner's Crown | 25m | 17 | ||
Hard for the grade. The hand crack on the right-hand side of the central gully. Jam to a large ledge (shared with Cries and Whispers) then thug your way up the off-hands corner to the top (save some #3 Camalots!). | |||||
K. Kiernan, K. McConnell, Dec 1975. |
★ 30. | Cries And Whispers | 25m | 19 | ||
A fine route and a good warm-up, located in the middle of Lost World. Great hand-jamming to an awkward rest stance between twin cracks. Move into the left-hand crack (crux) and follow this to the large ledge. Finish up the off-hand/fist crack as for Commoner's Crown - don't forget to save some #3 Camalots! | |||||
K. Lindorff, K. McConnell, Jan 1976. |
31. | Raiders Of The Lost World | 25m | 16 | ||
The deep chimney to the right of Cries and Whispers. An old-school strenuous thrutch, completely devoid of any natural gear. Watch out for the large rolling boulder at the top after you steal the precious jewel... | |||||
J. Fischer, C. Allen, 2007. |
32. | Minstrel In The Gallery | 15m | 19 | ||
15m right of the central gully, twin cracks with an overhang halfway up the cliff. Jam the cleaner righthand crack (though it is still often slippery). | |||||
R. Muhlen, B. Kennedy, K. McConnell, Jan 1977. |
★ 33. | Blood On The Racks | 20m | 21 | ||
The short, thin crack on the slab a few metres left of Lost Wanderer. Up the crack to a bushy ledge. Continue left off the ledge easily to the top. | |||||
K. Kiernan, S. Karpiniec, K. McConnell, Dec 1975. FFA: S. Parsons, D. Fife, P. Bigg, L. Shepherd, Jan 1982. |
34. | Technicolour Zawn | 15m | 12 | ||
The easy chimney/flake with the bush immediately right of Blood on the Racks. Caution - the recent rock fall may have changed this route - the top is very unstable and dangerous. | |||||
Phil Steane (solo), Jan 1983. |
★★ 35. | Lost Wanderer | 25m | 18 | ||||||||
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I. Lewis, K. Carrigan, Apr 1974. Direct Start: L. Closs, Jul 1975. |
36. | Wander No More | 25m | 21 | ||
The crack on the right side of the arête below Lost Wanderer. Finish up Lost Wanderer from about half height. | |||||
D. Gray, S. Eberhardt, Jan 1992. |
★★ 37. | Gargamell | 20m | 28 | Þ ↓ | |
The bolted arête right of Lost Wanderer. Delicately powerful moves with an engaging crux. Trad anchor on bollards at the top (no DBB). | |||||
A. Williams, Jan 2004. |
38. | Hurricane | 20m | 14 | ||
The chances of being blown away are slim indeed. The obvious chimney left of Hufflepuff. Squeeze to the top. | |||||
Basil Rathbone, R. Roffe, Feb 1976. |
★ 39. | Hufflepuff | 20m | 23 | ||
The clean, well-protected crack just right of Hurricane - a test-piece in flared jamming. Follow the line to to a crux bulge at 6m. Sustained bridging and jamming follows to the top. | |||||
Christoph Speer, Martin Brown, Feb 2023 |
★ 40. | Great Southern Land | 17m | 21 | ||
The corner with twin cracks above a scrubby ledge, left of Endorphine. Climb past the scrub from the left and onto the ledge to belay. Bridge and jam the twin cracks, finishing up the left-hand crack. Approachable, but currently a bit dirty. | |||||
Phil Steane, Pete Steane, Oct 1982. FFA: G. Cooper, A. Adams, Feb 1986. |
★ 41. | Opioid | 14m | 24/25 | ||
The crack below Endorphin is a short finger and layback crack with a couple of bouldery moves. Small / medium wires protect the middle. End on the ledge or link into Endorphin! | |||||
Alex Hartshorne, Crazy John Dec 17 |
★★ 42. | Endorphine | 20m | 26 | Þ ↓ | |
Sharp. The bolted arête to the left of Dyazide and right of Great Southern Land, starting from the ledge at half height. | |||||
K. Robinson, Jan 2004. |
★ 43. | Dyazide | 12m | 17 | ||
The distinctive north-facing crack starting from a ledge halfway up the cliff, left of a wide corner. Scramble up to the ledge from the right. Jam the hand crack to an awkward rest in the sentry box, then exit using the finger crack (crux). | |||||
P. Bigg, S. Parsons, D. Fife, 1982. |
★ 44. | Don't Eat Yellow Snow | 15m | 26 | ||
Absorbing climbing. The second crack left of Adolf Builds A Bonfire and the third line right of Dyazide. The thin crack up the striped wall. Climb the crack with increasing difficulty. Micro-cams required. | |||||
Phil Steane, et al, Apr 1983. FFA: M. Jackson, Feb 1995. |
45. | Peaches En Regalia | 15m | 20 | ||
The first line left of Adolf Builds A Bonfire. Some flared and quirky jamming, with an interesting move near the top. Currently dirty and vegetated. | |||||
D. Rollins, A. Shorten, Apr 2013. |
★ 46. | Adolf Builds A Bonfire | 13m | 18 | ||
A 1930’s style literary purge in the making? The big corner left of Opportunity. Up the small slab then hand-jam the corner. Avoid when wet. | |||||
Phil Steane, A. Adams, Jan 1983. |
★ 47. | Opportunity | 15m | 20 | ||
Much to gain, so little pain. The overhung v-groove crack and sentry box just right of Adolf Builds a Bonfire. Climb the crack to the top past some memorable bulges. | |||||
A. Adams, Phil Steane, Mar 1983. |
48. | World Wide Adventure | 22m | 18 | ||
The L-facing corner below a scrubby ledge 15m left of Rosy Pink Cadillac. A prominent gum tree is growing out of the top crack. Layback the corner, cross the ledge, jam the crack to the gum tree (crux) and finish up the final groove. | |||||
Phil Steane, N. Ward, Mar 1983. |
49. | Money In The Bank | 12m | 21 | ||||||||
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(1) N. Ward, Phil Steane. (2) C. Maddock, Phil Steane, Apr 1983. FFA: E. Peacock, 1983. |
★★★ 50. | Rose Pink Cadillac | 25m | 25 | ↓ | |||||||
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M. McHugh, R. McMahon, 1971. FFA: M. Law, 1978. Direct Start: S. Parsons, P. Bigg, D. Fife, Feb 1983. Direct Finish: Unknown (probably S. Parsons). |
51. | Closed Project | ||||
Line of bolts right of Rosy Pink Cadillac |
★★ 52. | Agent Orange Sunset | 20m | 19 | ||
Unique, weird, and hard for the grade. Do it for the entertainment value. Tackles the prominent diagonal left leaning flake at the right end of the cliff. Struggle up the off-width chimney 3m left of Paladin until you can traverse out left at the flake. Move up the flake to a roof, swing left around the arête and finish up an easy chimney. | |||||
Phil Steane, Nov 1982. |
★ 53. | Paladin | 16m | 17 | ||
Worth some time if this is near your grade. The short, steep, and slightly dirty hand crack at the far right of the cliff, just right of Agent Orange Sunset. Jam the hand-crack to the base of the off-width, then either finish direct (ugly) or traverse right and finish up the RH crack (better). | |||||
P. Morris, P. Cullen, Jan 1977. |
Rock | Dolerite, up to 15m high, slightly off vertical. |
Access | This little crag (GPS MTW350), visible from the bend below the Chalet, is 25 minutes bush bash from Lost World. The easiest route to the cliff is probably to follow the Yellow Spot Track across the boulder field in front of Lost World until it meets the Red Spot Track, just about directly opposite the Lactos abseil (GPS MTW360). Follow the yellow spots steeply down over the edge for about 50m and shortly after the track levels off (just before it veers off down again and to the right), a large cairn on the left hand side (GPS MTW370) marks a track that contours round to the north, marked by tape and occasional cairns, to two bolted arêtes. Alternatively, bush-bash down from the northern end of Lost World down to the top and rap off to reach the base... easier to describe, harder to do... |
Climbing Info | 13 routes, offering a varied selection of cracks and bolted faces. Routes are described L to R and virtually all have initialed starts. Note that the carrot bolts used here have large heads, and will not take the some right-angle RP brackets. |
★ 54. | Cranky Girl | 10m | 24 | 3Þ ↓ | |
The first climb on the craglet (GPS MTW380) takes the arête of the column left of Dvorak Goes Metal. | |||||
A. Williams, Jan 2002. |
★★ 55. | Dvorak Goes Metal | 12m | 20 | Þ | |
The route follows the superb looking arête, 5m right of Cranky Girl. Scramble to the base of the arête then launch onto the arête proper. Three bolts (carrots) protect the excellent and technical face climbing above, single bolt belay (FH). | |||||
R. Parkyn, Apr 1991. |
★ 56. | Friends With Cameras for Eyes | 15m | 16 | ||
Start about 12m right of the DGM. A few bouldery moves lead to a twin crack system made of loose blocks and flakes. | |||||
O. Prall, May 1991. |
57. | Catcher In The Rye | 16m | 15 | ||
About 2m right of FWCFE. Hand jam to two blocks and a bush. Continue up the crack above until a traverse left across the wall to a "horn" can be made, to avoid an off width crack. Finish up the hand crack right of the arête. | |||||
Phil Steane, R. deCesare, Nov 1982. |
★ 58. | Quintessence of Clarity | 15m | 20 | Þ | |
The face/arête just left of Pinkinsane. Climb the face or arête behind the myrtle to the first of two carrots (run out). Continue past the difficulties until it eases. Ascend easily and then finish with moves of varying degrees of difficulty. Pro can be arranged in Pinkinsane to avoid initial runout. | |||||
M. Perchard, May 1991. |
59. | Pinkinsane | 16m | 16 | ||
Jam the fist crack just right of the above route, terminating in an easy chimney. | |||||
Phil Steane, R. deCesare, Nov 1982. |
★ 60. | Would Jesus Play Guitar in a Thrash Metal Band | 15m | 24 | Þ | |
Rewarding and technical. Start 1m right of Pinkinsane. Climb the face past two bolts (carrots) on thin layaway holds (crux). Continue up the hand crack which begins at 7m. | |||||
O. Prall, Apr 1991. |
★★ 61. | Procol Harum | 16m | 15 | ||
A pearler! Hand jam the line 4m right of Pinkinsane finishing up a short slab on the left. | |||||
Phil Steane, R. deCesare, Nov 1982. |
★★ 62. | Toxastoma par Excellance | 15m | 23 | Þ | |
A sustained and technical climb (if you stay on route) which climbs the face between Procol Harum and Tales of Power. Using small holds and both arêtes climb to the base of the layback flake. Up this then move L (crux) to a finger crack. Up this for 3m, then finish back right up the blank wall above. (4BRs, carrots). | |||||
M. Perchard, Apr 1991. |
★ 63. | Tales Of Power | 16m | 17 | ||
The line 2m R of Procol Harum. A thin start, followed by hand jams and some pleasant offwidth moves. | |||||
Phil Steane, R. deCesare, Nov 1982. |
64. | Semi Detached Reality | 16m | 16 | ||
The crack 4m right of Tales of Power that splits into two half way up. Steep hand jams, followed by a traverse into the left hand line. | |||||
Phil Steane, R. deCesare, Nov 1982. |
65. | Parkynsane | 20m | 20 | ||
Starts just right of Semi Detached Reality. A wandering beginning leads to a thin crack near the right hand edge of the high orange wall. Climb the crack and arête just to the right. Well protected. | |||||
R. Parkyn, Apr 1991. |
66. | Barbwire Canoe | 16m | 6 | ||
The easy corner just right of the main cliff, finishing with a desperate move. | |||||
Phil Steane, R. deCesare, Nov 1982. |
Rock | Dolerite face, about 15m high. It is not like us to be judgmental or disparaging, but this is shite. It might be worth a visit if you are really, really bored with everything else on the mountain, or with life itself. |
Access | Aaaagh! Located 150m to the south of Lost World, at the same altitude (GPS MTW390). From Good Behaviour scramble and bush-bash south (towards the road) and down around a rock spur or two then back uphill to reach the crag. Alternatively, a direct approach to the top as an offshoot from the usual route into Lost World from is less scrubby but very difficult to find. Take the GPS... and a machete... or flame thrower... |
Climbing Info | The "crag" faces the Organ Pipes and is split by only 4 lines, the RH of which is vegetated with tea tree. Routes are described from L to R. |
67. | Six Months In A Leaky Test Tube | 15m | 17 | ||
The left hand line. Start behind the scrub and continue up the left trending crack. | |||||
Phil Steane, G. Cooper, 1982. |
68. | Testing One Two Three | 15m | 14 | ||
The chimney, second from the left, with a big chockstone at half height. | |||||
Phil Steane, G. Cooper, 1982. |
69. | My Mother Was A Test Tube | 15m | 17 | ||
The third crack with the awkward looking start. Up the crack to the ledge and continue easily to top. | |||||
G. Cooper, Phil Steane, 1982. |
Rock | North facing dolerite buttresses up to 10m |
Access | The crag is due north of the big bend, on the other side of the ridge, and faces north. The easiest way to get there is to walk up the red dot track to the top of the hill. After it goes up past the rock step, turn sharply L and follow the ridge along west about 200m. Angle north and you will pick up some old cairns and an old track, which heads down to the crag on its western end. |
Climbing Info | This little crag makes up for its lack of height by easy access, a sunny aspect, and user friendly climbing. Its probably the sunniest crag on the mountain. There is potential for a couple more lines to be done here. Climbs are described left to right. |
★ 70. | Smear Like a Madman | 8m | 20 | 3Þ ↓ | |
Superb climbing in the corner 3m left of Georgie's climb. Stem, bridge and smear to the top. Use the DBB on Dirty Dog. | |||||
Dave Humphries, Tony McKenny, Apr 2010. |
★ 71. | Georgie's Climb | 8m | 21 | ↓ | |
The little roof about 5m left of Little Ripper. Climb up the face to a tricky boulder problem at the roof. Continue up to the DBB on Dirty Dog. | |||||
Jon Nermut, Apr 2010 (with pre-placed gear). |
72. | Dirty Dog | 10m | 14 | ↓ | |
The crack and corner right of Georgie's Climb. DBB. | |||||
Jon Nermut, Apr 2010. |
★ 73. | Little Ripper | 8m | 21 | 3Þ ↓ | |
Around on the left hand side of the crag is a face with two lines. Climb the left arête past 3 FH to DBB. You can get a small cam in under the block at the top to protect the exit. | |||||
Jon Nermut, Mar 2010. |
74. | Rough as Guts | 8m | 20 | ↓ | |
The burly crack to the right of Little Ripper. One FH protects the start, then there is bomber gear in the crack. Use the DBB on Little Ripper. | |||||
Dave Humphries, Mar 2010. |
★ 75. | Hawk Eye | 8m | 20 | 5Þ | |
The arête and face around the corner right from Rough as Guts. A tricky start gives way to pleasant climbing, head a move or two left at the last bolt. DBB on block. | |||||
Will Bartlett, Sam Peyr, Apr 2010. |
★★ 76. | Dying Breed | 12m | 26 | Þ | |
The steep, thin seam on the pillar right of Hawk Eye is fused to begin with but then opens to accept gear. Start bridging in the corner, then step onto the face at the first bolt. Awesome climbing using both aretes and seam past two more bolts. There is a crucial medium wire/cam placement higher up. Finish up seam to DBB on ledge. | |||||
Will Bartlett, May 2010. |
★ 77. | Flood Control | 10m | 17 | ↓ | |
Climb the seam and crack up the middle of the face to DBB. The gear gets better with height (it's a bit thin down low). | |||||
Dave Humphries, Feb 2010. |
78. | Lost and Found | 10m | 14 | ||
The "long" crack a few metres to the right of Flood Control, 2m left of Collar Cool. Short but sweet. | |||||
Tony McKenny, Alan Beech, 25 April 2010. |
★ 79. | 18 Collar Cool | 8m | 22 | 3Þ | |
Great climbing up the arête. Stick clip the first bolt then head for the layaways and jugs. | |||||
Dave Humphries, Apr 2010. |
80. | I'd Rather Be Eating a Super Schnitzel | 6m | 15 | ||
The prominent crack in the corner a few metres right of 18 Collar Cool. This steep, dirty, mossy off-hand crack is every bit as good as it sounds! Jam to the top, mantle into the sharp bushes and step left to DBB on 18 Collar Cool. | |||||
Alex Lewis, Will Bartlett, Mar 2010. |
81. | Short Climb 2 | 6m | 21 | ↓ | |
The first bit of rock you come to on the right hand end of the crag is a tiny buttress with some bolts in it. Climb the face past a FH and into the thin crack, which takes small cams. | |||||
Dave Humphries, Feb 2010. |
82. | Expectorant | 6m | 18 | 2Þ ↓ | |
The detached pillar just to the right has 2 bolts. Climb up and over to the DBB on the previous climb. A bit contrived... but fun all the same. | |||||
Dave Humphries, Feb 2010. |