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This rap point is directly on top of “ The Mermaids Siren”, one of the best grade 17 trad routes anywhere and a top rope can easily be rigged while on abseil. 

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The climbing

Routes ordered starting upstream to downstream

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A double rack of cams (0.3 - #2 plus a single #3) and several runners more than adequately protects this route. A brilliant warm up and very worth doing in its own right

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Guillotine 

24 

15m sport

A great route beginning with delicate moves up the immaculate polished bulge (a stick clip helps). Gain the large ledge before launching up into the steepness on big moves. Guillotine takes the left line of bolts at the roof with a powerful crux.

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The absolutely horizontal roof above Guillotine and Scimitar and a great way to top out the crag. Crazy moves in a crazy position, can be done from the ground in one mega pitch. Best be seconded to clean and descend from the rap point 30m upstream to avoid soaking your rope.

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Negotiate the tricky section of canyon to get to the next climbs. Wading is usually the only option for those under 6ft. 

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Starts as for "Its a Pirates Life For Me" splintering right after the first roof. Bouldery and heroic, the final 5m of glory jugs finish at the very top right of the wall. Bring a few long runners to ease rope drag. 

2x u bolts for anchors

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Shipwreck Cove 

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Pocket full of bolts 

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