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<guide version="3" pagesize="500">
<header name="Little Bluestone Bay" id="1" autonumber="true" camping="" walk="5-30 mins" sun="Morning sun" rock="White granite, 10-25m" intro="This section covers the climbs that are accessed by the Little Bluestone Bay track. This area offers some superb routes in a beautiful location." history="" acknowledgement="" access="From the Whitewater Wall campsite, walk south for 10 minutes down the rough 4WD track to Little Bluestone Bay. From here follow a rough track south around the coastline, slightly inland. Drop down to your buttress of choice." guide.type="header" guide.page="0" guide.id="0" guide.action="submit"/>
<image id="129" height="205" src="little bluestone pano 2000.jpg" width="1000">
<drawing>
<rect style="yellow_outline" id="81853" height="56" width="70" x="98" y="91" text="Rubik's Cube"/>
<rect style="yellow_outline" id="21282" height="123" width="128" x="228" y="37" text="Alchemy"/>
<rect style="yellow_outline" id="98450" height="160" width="186" x="436" y="27" text="Second Ramp"/>
<rect style="yellow_outline" id="77429" height="160" width="342" x="633" y="27" text="First Ramp"/>
<rect style="yellow_outline" id="73610" height="22" width="60" x="52" y="63" text="Lego Area" arrowDirection="south"/>
</drawing>
</image>
<text id="3" class="heading3" guide.type="text" guide.page="0" guide.id="135" guide.action="submit">Lego Area</text>
<text id="4" class="text" guide.type="text" guide.page="0" guide.id="136" guide.action="submit">This is the southernmost developed cliff in the area. From the end of the road to Little Bluestone Bay, head uphill to the R (inland), then L to cross a creek bed above First Ramp. From here move southwards towards the coast, walk past Alchemy Wall and Rubik's Cube to the gully leading down to the sea. A prominent buttress lies just north of this gully. It is also possible to get to this area by following an old 4WD track down to the coast from the Cape Tourville Rd, about 100m past the turn off to Bluestone Bay.</text>
<climb name="I See You Baby (Shakin' that Ass)" id="9" fa="J. Holland, M. Hynes, Sep 2001." stars="" number="1." length="20m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="9" guide.action="submit" grade="15" extra="">50m left of Lego Buttress proper:The easy slab and continuation groove about 50m left of Lego Buttress.</climb>
<climb name="Demolition Darby" id="7" fa="P.Darby, Apr 1988." stars="" number="2." length="10m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="7" guide.action="submit" grade="18" extra="">Obvious crack starting from wall parallel to ramp.</climb>
<climb name="Lego" id="6" fa="Nic Deka, Apr 1988." stars="*" number="3." length="25m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="6" guide.action="submit" grade="21" extra="">Full name: Where's My Mum, Where's My Dad, Where's My Lunch, Where's My Doll, Where's My Fucking Lego. Climb discontinuous cracks up the front of the buttress, passing several horizontal breaks with a tricky mantel. Crosses King Constipator and is probably superseded by it.</climb>
<climb name="King Constipator" id="5" fa="Nick Hancock & Andrew Bissett (alt), Aug 2001." stars="**" number="4." length="40m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="5" guide.action="submit" grade="24" extra="">Start at the hanging arête below the u-bolts on the right of the main butress. The crux is past the final overhang at the end of pitch 1. If you're a bit on the short side these few moves may be a fair bit harder than 24 and hard to aid. Thankfully the first ascentionist has provided ring bolts, so you can either lower-off or, more preferably, belay there then traverse right and ascend the pinnacle from behind, allowing the completion of the worthwhile 2nd pitch. 1. 24. Up the arête past several cams and bolts to a ledge, continue up the slab past another bolt to another ledge. Clip another bolt and climb the overhanging flake to gain yet another ledge and a well-needed break before tackling the final overhang. Belay on top of the pinnacle at the bolt. You'll need cams from 1-4 if you don't want to get too scared. 2. 21. Step across the void to gain the main part of the cliff and continue up the funky corner past 2 bolts.</climb>
<climb id="140" stars="**" extra="" number="5." name="Let Loose The Kraken" length="40m" grade="23" fa="Andrew [Squib] Cubbon & Toby ??????? Feb 2018">A fantastic line of two varied, but equally difficult pitches (if you like that sort of thing!).<br/><br/>Start 10m right of ‘Lego’, in the obvious corner with left to right rising crack, capped by a large roof.<br/><br/>1. 18m 23 – Climb the finger crack in the corner up to the 3m roof. Plug some gear and monkey around to the ledge on the left. Catch your breath and continue up the crack on the right to large ledge. Traverse left to belay on the spacious ledge below the ominous crack above.<br/>2. 22m 23 – Up the striking crack, which starts as hands and finishes as a squeeze chimney. A great fight!<br/></climb>
<text id="10" class="heading3">Rubik's Cube</text>
<text id="11" class="text">The so-called Rubik's Cube is the small series of cliffs that form vague cube like shapes, east of Tetragamatron. It is best to get a line on this when first walking down to Little Bluestone Bay. Access is best facilitated by scrambling down on the seaward side (SE).</text>
<text id="12" class="Discussion">The Orange Face: this is the left-most face and runs parallel to the ocean.</text>
<climb name="Analysis, Statistics" id="13" fa="N.Deka, D.Stephenson, Mar 1989." stars="" number="6." length="15m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="13" guide.action="submit" grade="18" extra="">Start as for Interval but step left after 3m and climb hand-crack. Step left again at ledge and up incipient cracks to top. A fine climb to the end.</climb>
<climb name="Interval" id="14" fa="D.Batten, D.Bruce, Mar 1989." stars="" number="7." length="15m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="14" guide.action="submit" grade="15" extra="">Start 4m left of corner up hand-crack to top.</climb>
<text id="15" class="Discussion">The Yellow Face: the next face right, perpendicular to the ocean.</text>
<image id="136" src="rc4.jpg" height="900" width="1200">
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<legend>
<climb>16</climb>
<climb>17</climb>
<climb>19</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<climb name="The Horror" id="16" fa="J.Pinkard, B. Baxter, Mar 1989." stars="" number="8." length="8m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="16" guide.action="submit" grade="20" extra="">Far left hand side of the face. Up steep wall and crack to top with awkward finish.</climb>
<climb name="Blinking Idiot" id="17" fa="R. Parkyn, S. Edwards, Mar 1996." stars="*" number="9." length="8m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="17" guide.action="submit" grade="24" extra="">The crack line right of The Horror. Adequately protected by wires and a 1 friend near the top. Move left to the frail looking jug just before the top.</climb>
<climb name="Snakes, Ladders" id="19" fa="J.Pinkard, B.Baxter, Mar 1989." stars="*" number="10." length="8m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="19" guide.action="submit" grade="24" extra="">Steep, flared crack with layaways on both faces. Absolutely no gear.</climb>
<text id="18" class="Discussion">The Green Face: next right</text>
<image id="137" src="rc5.jpg" height="900" width="1200">
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<legend>
<climb>23</climb>
<climb>24</climb>
<climb>25</climb>
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</image>
<climb name="Bill's Climb" id="20" fa="J.Pinkard, B.Baxter, Mar 1989." stars="*" number="11." length="8m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="20" guide.action="submit" grade="19" extra="">Up steep hand crack starting in the corner.</climb>
<climb name="a+b" id="21" fa="D.Bruce, Mar 1989." stars="" number="12." length="8m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="21" guide.action="submit" grade="15" extra="">A fun climb. The corner crack which is both varied and well protected.</climb>
<climb name="Easy Solo" id="22" fa="J.Pinkard, Mar 1989." stars="" number="13." length="8m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="22" guide.action="submit" grade="12" extra=""/>
<climb name="Digit" id="23" fa="N.Deka, D.Bruce, D.Batten, Mar 1989." stars="*" number="14." length="7m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="23" guide.action="submit" grade="20" extra="">Start 3m left of Spirit of Place. Up crack and layaway, surprisingly to right, otherwise you'll end up on the other climb.</climb>
<climb name="Spirit of Place" id="24" fa="J.Pinkard, B.Baxter, Mar 1989." stars="**" number="15." length="6m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="24" guide.action="submit" grade="21" extra="">Ascent of left trending diagonal confronted by thin balancy moves.</climb>
<climb name="Soft Grit" id="25" fa="N. Selby, Apr 2001." stars="*" number="16." length="6m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="25" guide.action="submit" grade="21" extra="">The arête immediately right of Spirit of Place. Up into undercling and continue to thin crack (good wires here). Continue straight up the arête or dyno right to good holds and the top.</climb>
<climb name="Tangent" id="26" fa="N. Deka, D.Stephenson, Mar 1989." stars="" number="17." length="6m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="26" guide.action="submit" grade="16" extra="">Glorified boulder problem up crack, out under roof and bridge to finish.</climb>
<text id="27" class="Discussion">The Black Face: the next face right</text>
<image id="138" src="rc1.jpg" height="900" width="1200">
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<legend>
<climb>24</climb>
<climb>25</climb>
<climb>26</climb>
<climb>28</climb>
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</image>
<climb name="Fractional" id="28" fa="D.Stephenson, N.Deka, D.Batten, Mar 1989." stars="" number="18." length="12m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="28" guide.action="submit" grade="21" extra="">Corner on extreme left of Black face. Bridge up blind corner to ledge. Up handcrack above. Bad protection.</climb>
<climb name="Pink Solo" id="29" fa="J.Pinkard, Mar 1989." stars="" number="19." length="6m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="29" guide.action="submit" grade="10" extra="">Easy face.</climb>
<climb name="Denominator" id="30" fa="N. Deka, Mar 1989." stars="" number="20." length="6m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="30" guide.action="submit" grade="15" extra="">Obvious arête about 5m left of Rhomboid.</climb>
<climb name="Rhomboid" id="31" fa="D.Stephenson, N.Deka, Mar 1989." stars="" number="21." length="10m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="31" guide.action="submit" grade="17" extra="">The arête immediately left of the overhang. Pleasant climbing up hand cracks.</climb>
<climb name="Dynamo Hum" id="32" fa="D.Stephenson, J.Otlowski, 1989." stars="" number="22." length="10m" grade="22">Climb the steep wall just right of the crack.</climb>
<climb name="Left Crack" id="33" fa="Nick Deka, Neale Smith, 1989." stars="" number="23." length="10m" grade="22">Climb the overhanging crack.</climb>
<climb name="Geometry" id="34" fa="N.Deka, D.Bruce, D.Batten, Mar 1989." stars="" number="24." length="10m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="34" guide.action="submit" grade="17" extra="">About 4m left of the arête, with a bouldery start.</climb>
<climb name="Hypothetical" id="35" fa="N.Deka, D.Bruce, D.Batten, Mar 1989." stars="" number="25." length="10m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="35" guide.action="submit" grade="17" extra="">Up right arête. Take crack to top.</climb>
<text id="36" class="Discussion">The Red Face: Again the next face right.</text>
<climb name="Roxanne's Corner" id="37" fa="Roxanne Wells, Mar 1989." stars="" number="26." length="12m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="37" guide.action="submit" grade="8" extra="">The easy corner where the Red face meets the overhanging Blue face.</climb>
<climb name="D Squared + r" id="38" fa="D.Bruce, D.Batten, R.Wells, Mar 1989." stars="" number="27." length="12m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="38" guide.action="submit" grade="15" extra="">Just right of the centre of the face. A good route with RP protection.</climb>
<climb name="Logarithm" id="39" fa="N.Deka, D.Stephenson, Mar 1989." stars="" number="28." length="12m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="39" guide.action="submit" grade="14" extra="">The far right arête. Excellent crack climbing.</climb>
<text id="40" class="text">Low-Flyer Wall: The steep wall that faces the the track where it meets Bluestone Bay, with two bolted routes.</text>
<climb name="Project" id="41" stars="" number="29." length="8m" grade="" extra="Þ">Project. Left line of bolts. S. Young</climb>
<climb name="Low-Flyer" id="42" fa="S.Young 2006" stars="*" number="30." length="8m" grade="23" extra="Þ">Right line of bolts. Steep face climbing to lower-off.</climb>
<text id="144" class="text">Ferret Face: The compact grey buttress on the ramp above the far RH end of Rubik's Cube.</text>
<image id="134" height="800" src="Mini Dyke.jpg" legendy="7" legendx="5" legend="true" width="1200" legendTitle="Ferret Face">
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<legend>
<climb>143</climb>
<climb>142</climb>
<climb>135</climb>
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</image>
<climb id="143" stars="" extra="" number="31." name="The Generation Effect" length="8m" grade="13" fa="Pat & Byron Eberhard Jul 2020">The short fist crack. Easily climbed with minimal jamming.</climb>
<climb id="142" stars="" extra="" number="32." name="A Dream of White Ferrets " length="10m" grade="17" fa="Rolan & Pat Eberhard Jul 2020 - Seems likely to have had an earlier ascent??">The L curving hand crack up the middle of the buttress. Gritty.</climb>
<climb name="NameMe" id="135" fa="Simon Young, Anna Johnstone 2007" stars="*" number="33." length="10m" grade="20" extra="3Þ">Climb slab past 3 bolts to DBB</climb>
<text id="43" class="heading3">Tetragrammaton Buttress</text>
<text id="44" class="text">A large white piece of rock with some yellow stains on it. The cliff is located between Rubiks Cube and Alchemy Wall. It is hidden behind Alchemy Wall when viewed from Little Bluestone Bay. The best option is to rap in from some trees (50m), but access is possible down the gully on the Rubiks Cube side of the cliff. To use this access head down to just above Rubiks Cube and work around to Tetragrammaton. The approach scramble is about grade 9 (best to rope-up). It's possible to take the gully direct, but it's very loose and dangerous. There is a DBB on a prominent ledge half-way up.</text>
<image id="130" height="669" src="tetragrammatron.jpg" legendTitle="Tetragrammaton" legendy="8" legendx="10" legend="true" width="600">
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<rect id="98610" x="297" y="17" width="100" height="36" style="black_text_on_solid_white" text="Abseil from Trees<br/>(50m to water)" arrowDirection="south"/>
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<rect id="62480" x="301" y="193" width="31" height="36" style="black_text_on_solid_white" text="DBB<br/>25m"/>
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<legend>
<climb>48</climb>
<climb>49</climb>
<climb>50</climb>
<climb>51</climb>
<climb>52</climb>
<climb>139</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<climb name="The Drivel Dies" id="46" fa="D. Gardner, T. Meldrum, T. McKenny, J. McKenny, Jan 1994." stars="" number="34." length="35m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="43" guide.action="submit" grade="20" extra="">To the left of the gully that splits the face. The collection of finger and layback cracks left of the large chimney, climb these and when they run out step right into the chimney and onto the top. Good climbing on excellent rock for the first half of the route.</climb>
<climb name="The Devil Drives" id="47" fa="E.Lees, N.Smith, 1982." stars="" number="35." length="40m" grade="21">To the right of the gully that splits the face, on the left side of the wall. This route wonders up the wall to the right of the gully, but left of the difficult looking face to the ledge. Finish up pitch 2 of The Boy who Cried Wolf.</climb>
<climb name="The Boy Who Cried Wolf" id="48" fa="J. Fantini, N. Smith, Nov 1981." stars="*" number="36." length="40m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="45" guide.action="submit" grade="20" extra="">This whole route is slightly overhung and is tough for the grade. Right of the above, below an obvious v-squeeze chimney at about 20m.<br/>1 25m. The curving cracks with hard mantel and difficult off-width. Up the steep difficult crack for 10m to a difficult step right and mantelshelf which leads to an awkward exit up a flared squeeze chimney.<br/>2. 15m. Continue straight up.</climb>
<climb name="The Little Red Hen" id="49" fa="J. Fantini, N. Smith, Nov 1981." stars="*" number="37." length="40m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="46" guide.action="submit" grade="22" extra="">The crack right of the above, starting at a pillar of rock. Quite hard. Second pitch as above.</climb>
<climb name="Chicken Surprise" id="50" fa="Pete Steane, Adrian Herrington, 1996." stars="" number="38." length="12m" grade="22">A second pitch to Little Red Hen. The terrace half way up Tetragamatron Buttress is at two levels, the left being 1.5m lower than the right half. The line starts at the step between the two. At the top traverse right past a small tree, then up.</climb>
<climb name="Tetragrammaton" id="51" fa="J.Fantini, N.Smith, N.Deka, Nov 1981." stars="***" number="39." length="40m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="48" guide.action="submit" grade="20" extra="">Exposed, hard and sustained. Locate the most obvious finish on the right of the face and follow this in a straight line to a ledge and pillar belay. The top pitch can sometimes be a little sandy and is worth brushing on your way down.<br/>1. 25m. Sustained hand jamming through the steep crack and roof, finishing to the ledge (DBB).<br/>2. 15m. Up the diagonal crack. Technical face and crack climbing leads to some burly jamming to top.</climb>
<climb name="No More Mr Nice Guy" id="52" fa="J. Fisher, B. Chilvers, Feb 1994." stars="***" number="40." length="25m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="49" guide.action="submit" grade="19" extra="">One of the best at the grade in Tasmania. Belay at the small ledge near the water (low swell) or off a horn of rock just above. Easiest way off is to climb the second pitch of Tetragrammaton (grade 20), or rap down to sea level and walking out.<br/>1. 25m. Climb the crack system for to just below the obvious left trending crack. Follow this (crux) to an exciting hand traverse left. Finish up hand crack up to DBB as for Tetragrammaton.<br/></climb>
<climb name="Exocet" id="53" fa="G. Phillips and S.Young 2007." stars="***" number="41." length="48m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="50" guide.action="submit" grade="26" extra="">A classic.<br/>1. 18m 18. Climb No More Mr Nice Guy to the traverse left and build a gear belay at a stance in the corner (Original belay was a DBB)<br/>2. 18m 26. Climb the pumpy thin crack up the overhanging arete and around the corner, after the last hard move clip the U bolt to protect the second and continue a few more metres right to a DBB. <br/>3. 10m 19. Follow the nice hand crack to the top.</climb>
<climb id="139" stars="***" extra="" number="42." name="Fodiator" length="43m" grade="28 R" fa="Andrew [Squib] Cubbon & Lizzy Oh, July 2017">An incredible route. Quality climbing on impeccable rock, in one of the most exposed positions at Freycinet.<br/>Start as for ‘Exocet’:<br/>1. 18m 18 - As for Exocet.<br/>2. 25m 28 R – Continue up the steep arête of Exocet until it reaches the roof. Instead of traversing right, place some bomber small cams and blast straight up the slick groove.<br/>After some tricky moves, the difficulty eases but is sparsely protected by good wires. Move left and up the arête.<br/></climb>
<climb name="Down Under" id="125" fa="Garry Phillips and Alex Lewis way back in 2008 i think" stars="***" number="43." length="18m" grade="25" extra="">From a small stance near the water climb out to reach the belay of Exocet and fodiator.<br/><br/>note: The route is mostly bolted but A #1 camalot and a couple of medium sized wires are necessary to protect the middle of the route. The single bolt belay can also be backed up with a 0.5 camalot if needed. <br/><br/></climb>
<climb name="Edge of the World" id="54" fa="R.McMahon, J.Fisher, B.Chilvers, Apr 1994." stars="" number="44." length="40m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="51" guide.action="submit" grade="19" extra="">This route is on the south facing wall of the zawn just north of Tetragamatron Buttress, visible from the top of this buttress. Descent is by abseil. The line on the left of the wall, sustained and a little loose.</climb>
<text id="55" class="heading3">Alchemy Wall</text>
<text id="56" class="text" guide.type="text" guide.page="0" guide.id="52" guide.action="submit">"The best face in the whole Bluestone area. The cliff that can turn cottage cheese into gold."</text>
<text id="57" class="text" guide.type="text" guide.page="0" guide.id="53" guide.action="submit">The compact wall visible from across Little Bluestone Bay. A distinct right leaning crack can be seen on the wall's left hand end (Hermes Trismegistus). To get there head up and right from the road end at Little Bluestone Bay. Follow and faint pad and the cliff tops around towards the cliff. Go through a dry creek bed looking gully and continue for a few hundred meters. Alchemy Wall is marked by a cairn. The approach takes around 10 minutes. Abseil or a scramble down at the northern end.</text>
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<climb>63</climb>
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<climb>67</climb>
<climb>68</climb>
<climb>69</climb>
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<climb name="Monte Carlo" id="59" fa="John Fantini, Neale Smith, Nov 1981." stars="" number="45." length="17m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="55" guide.action="submit" grade="18" extra="">The off-width corner left of Evelyn's Climb. A bit of a struggle, with the hard part of the off-width avoided by moving into crack at right near the top.</climb>
<climb name="Evelyn's Climb" id="60" fa="Evelyn Lees, N.Smith, B.Maddison, P.Cullen, Jan 1982." stars="*" number="46." length="15m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="56" guide.action="submit" grade="20" extra="">Test our your thin-hands technique! - add a grade if you have big mitts. The striking overhanging splitter crack on the face left of Coolibah Crack. Up the tight hand crack to a stance. Then follow the easier climbing above, finishing up the short squeeze chimney.</climb>
<climb id="146" stars="" extra="" number="47." name="Doug's Diagonal" length="20m" grade="22" fa="Doug McConnell & Nick Hancock. 2002">Climb up Coolibah Crack for 5 metres then follow the thin left trending diagonal crack out left to easier ground. Up the face.</climb>
<climb name="Coolibah Crack" id="61" fa="John Fantini, Robert McMahon, Oct 1981." stars="**" number="48." length="20m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="57" guide.action="submit" grade="19" extra="">The climb is located round left of the Alchemy Face and is a sharp, arching crack up the face with an orange hue. Awkward moves up initial flaring groove shoots you onto the delightful leftward leaning finger-crack up the steep face. A #4 is handy for the start.</climb>
<climb name="Immaculate Misconception" id="62" fa="Nick Hancock, Andrew Bissett, Aug 2001." stars="***" number="49." length="20m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="58" guide.action="submit" grade="25" extra="">The arête right of Coolibah Crack provides excellent climbing. The protection is good, comprising wires and bolts. Follow the arête to the overlap, turn this direct or slightly easier just R of the bolt, and head up the right side of the arête to the top.</climb>
<climb name="Hermes Trismegistus" id="64" fa="John Fantini, Robert McMahon, Oct 1981." stars="**" number="50." length="27m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="58" guide.action="submit" grade="21" extra="">The diagonal crack on the left of the seaward face, providing steep and sustained jamming for its length. Finish-up the technical groove off the sloping ledge above (crux). Be careful of your cams walking into the back of the crack - hexes are useful.</climb>
<climb name="Hermes Playmate" id="63" fa="Simon Carter, Roxanne Wells, Feb 1995." stars="*" number="51." length="20m" grade="22" extra="">Start up Hermes Trismegistus. Climb the cracks for 7m then left onto the face and directly up to some obvious underclings below the bulge. Move left a touch then climb the thin technical seam via a ledge to the top.</climb>
<climb name="Hermes Direct Finish" id="128" fa="Alex Lewis Aug 2013" stars="**" number="52." length="25m" grade="23" extra="">Climb Hermes to two-thirds height then head direct up the blocky corner (crux) and thin strenuous layback crack above.</climb>
<climb id="141" stars="**" extra="" number="53." name="I'm a Little Raver" length="25m" grade="21" fa="Simon Bischoff and Daniel Hazell June 2020">Start as for captivating passions in nice crack system (actually a little spicy) but just before the bolts and diabolical crux of CP traverse left and finish up Hermes. It climbs the best parts of both routes! Classic.</climb>
<climb name="Captivating Passions" id="65" fa="Grant Rowbottom, 1999." stars="*" number="54." length="20m" grade="25" extra="">Right of Hermes Trismegistus is a discontinuous line leading up to two u-bolts. Try to climb past these to the top.</climb>
<climb name="Ockham's Razor" id="126" fa="Simon Bischoff, August 2013" stars="**" number="55." length="20m" grade="27" extra="">Pure slab in the middle of alchemy wall. 6 U-bolts + 1 or 2 small cams to climb to first bolt. Crux begins at fourth bolt with flake. Thin moves up to flaring crack (can use wires to protect) and straight up to ledge. Place # 3 Camalot in break, climb the final bulge to the top.</climb>
<climb name="Walking the Plank Direct Finish" id="66" fa="Garry Phillips & Jake Bresnehan Sep 2007." stars="**" number="56." length="18m" grade="22" extra="">Climb Walking the Plank, but rather than stepping right into BEB head left past 1 bolt runner and up to lay back off width to finish. Take a #4 friend for the top.</climb>
<climb name="Walking the Plank" id="67" fa="Neale Smith, Nick Deka, Oct 1981." stars="***" number="57." length="25m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="62" guide.action="submit" grade="19" extra="">The equally gorgeous crack system left of Blue-eyed Blonde. The cracks run out on the upper face, forcing an exciting rightwards traverse into Blue-eyed Blonde.</climb>
<climb name="Blue-eyed Blonde" id="68" fa="Neale Smith, Nick Deka, Oct 1981." stars="***" number="58." length="25m" grade="19" extra="">Gorgeous. Follow the thoughtful crack system to the steepening, then up this (crux) to a small ledge and the top. Excellent protection.</climb>
<climb name="Alchemy" id="69" fa="John Fantini, Neale Smith, Nick Deka, Nov 1981." stars="***" number="59." length="25m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="63" guide.action="submit" grade="21" extra="">Very classy climbing up the far right crack system. Delicate moves between the cracks lead to a crux passing a good hold at half height. Finish up the finger/hand crack above.</climb>
<text id="70" class="heading3">Alchemy Ramp</text>
<text id="71" class="Discussion">The next climbs are located on the ramp above Alchemy Wall.</text>
<climb name="Fools Gold" id="72" fa="Nick Deka, Neale Smith, Oct 1981." stars="" number="60." length="10m" grade="15" extra="">A nice little corner on the left end of the tier above Alchemy Face. Awkward moves to gain ledge on arête.</climb>
<climb name="Exquisite Tenderness" id="73" fa="Grant Rowbottom, 1999." stars="*" number="61." length="15m" grade="28" extra="5Þ">The thin bolted face right of Fools Gold.</climb>
<climb name="L'Obsession" id="74" fa="Norm Selby 7 Jun 2003." stars="*" number="62." length="20m" grade="22" extra="5Þ">To the right of Exquisite Tenderness. 5 bolts.</climb>
<climb name="Silver and Gold" id="75" fa="J.Nermut, J.Anderson & E.Bradley Jan 2001." stars="" number="63." length="14m" grade="16" extra="">About 10 metres to the right of Exquisite Tenderness is a steep arête. Start about 2 metres further right of this underneath some large undercling flakes. Up the wall to the flakes and traverse leftwards around them to the arête. Up the arête and blocks above to the top.</climb>
<climb name="Haliaeetus Leucogaster" id="76" fa="J.Nermut, J.Anderson & E.Bradley Jan 2001." stars="" number="64." length="12m" grade="17" extra="">Start a metre or two further right than Silver and Gold and climb the thin broken crack and the blocks above to the top.</climb>
<text id="77" class="heading3">Second Ramp</text>
<text id="78" class="description">As you walk to Alchemy Wall from Little Bluestone Bay you cross a small, dry creek bed shortly after you turn south (5 minutes after leaving the road end). This creek drains over the First Ramp. If you drop down to the cliffs about 50 to 100m south of this creek, you emerge near the top of the second ramp.</text>
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<climb name="Struck Off " id="79" fa="Nick Hancock & Norm Selby Mar 2003." stars="" number="65." length="10m" grade="24" extra="">On small pinnacle at left end of crag, climb open groove on north side to roof and bolt. Hard moves to BB on top.</climb>
<climb name="Dodgy Ringpulls" id="80" fa="Kim Robinson, Aug 1997." stars="" number="66." length="12m" grade="18">Start at a small downward pointing flake left of Double Deka. Climb the initial overhang then continue up the lower angled rock to the top.</climb>
<climb name="Double Deka" id="81" fa="Nick Deka solo." stars="" number="67." length="15m" grade="12">About 2m left of Firewalker. Crux is laybacking down low, finishing up same slab as Firewalker.</climb>
<climb name="Firewalker" id="82" fa="Neale Smith (solo), Oct 1981." stars="*" number="68." length="16m" grade="14" extra="">The short corner at the left end of the short steep face which turns into a slab at 4 - 5m. Up the corner to finish up the slab.</climb>
<climb name="Ogma Sun Face" id="83" fa="John Fantini, Robert McMahon, Oct 1981." stars="**" number="69." length="15m" grade="19" extra="">The next line downhill and 3m right. Follow the finger crack with a long reach out right to gain the thoughtful easy slab above.</climb>
<climb name="Steel Springs" id="84" fa="Nick Deka, Neale Smith, Oct 1981." stars="*" number="70." length="15m" grade="17" extra="">Next line right. A graceful corner finishing up slab. Bridging moves with tricky protection.</climb>
<climb name="Curious Fanatic" id="85" fa="John Fantini, Robert McMahon, Oct 1981." stars="*" number="71." length="15m" grade="22" extra="">On the face 6m up left of the easy corner. A difficult boulder problem start gives way to flaring, slippery locks. Finish up the easy slab above.</climb>
<climb name="First in First Served" id="86" fa="Robert McMahon, Mar 1989." stars="*" number="72." length="10m" grade="21" extra="">On the short overhanging face just right of Curious Fanatic. Dynamic bouldery start, easy to top.</climb>
<climb name="Easy Corner" id="87" fa="Neale Smith (solo), Oct 1981." stars="" number="73." length="10m" grade="10">The obvious rightmost corner about 20m left of the sea.</climb>
<text id="88" class="Discussion">The rock wall right of this corner is short and easy. Go for your life.</text>
<climb name="Mathonwy" id="89" fa="Neale Smith, Robert McMahon, Oct 1981." stars="" number="74." length="15m" grade="12">A white wall down the Second Ramp. The line goes up the left of the face just right of the corner. Good holds - steep start and easy later.</climb>
<climb name="Doesn't Matter" id="90" fa="Neale Smith, Robert McMahon, Oct 1981." stars="" number="75." length="15m" grade="12">Further right, up the centre of the face. Same as above.</climb>
<climb id="145" stars="" extra="" number="76." name="Wandering Direct" length="60m" grade="10" fa="Tim Whelan, Oli Crawford, May 2021.">Scramble to sea level below Second Ramp. Follow a traverse line easily south. Step around arête and climb as you please up the broad open slab. Finish up corner and blocks to trees.<br/><br/></climb>
<text id="91" class="heading3">First Ramp</text>
<text id="92" class="description">As you walk to Alchemy Wall from Little Bluestone Bay you cross a tiny creek shortly after you turn south. This creek drains over the First Ramp. If you drop down to the cliffs about 50 to 100m south of this creek, you emerge near the left end of the First Ramp.</text>
<image id="149" src="9e9c12e8-082c-4374-be99-c7780065261b.jpg" height="491" width="800" legend="true" legendTitle="Top of First Ramp" legendx="4" legendy="4">
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<legend>
<climb>93</climb>
<climb>94</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<climb name="Bearded Clam Corner" id="93" fa="Neale Smith, 1981." stars="*" number="77." length="10m" grade="18" extra="">The first corner on the small black face. Crux move of thin bridging about a body length off the ground. Straight forward and pleasant bridging all the way with good protection.</climb>
<climb name="Fine Wine, Women and Precious Things" id="94" fa="R.McMahon, R.Wells, 1989." stars="*" number="78." length="10m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="86" guide.action="submit" grade="22" extra="">The finely detailed black stained face just right of Bearded Clam Corner. Sustained, and has poor RP protection.</climb>
<climb name="Triptolemus" id="95" fa="N.Smith, R.McMahon, Oct 1981." stars="" number="79." length="10m" grade="17">Further down the ramp are several lines on a steep face. The first is a black corner and the second is this corner. Quite technical and steep face climbing.</climb>
<climb name="Velchanos (Demon)" id="96" fa="N.Smith, R.McMahon, Oct 1981." stars="" number="80." length="22m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="88" guide.action="submit" grade="17" extra="">Just left of the main buttress. The route takes a direct line up through the overhanging bulge. Strenuous but not sustained.</climb>
<climb name="Whinging Poms" id="97" fa="D.Gardner, A.Holden, Jul 1990." stars="" number="81." length="22m" grade="17">The open book corner to the right of Velchanos. Up that (too easy), pull through overhang (too hard) and up crack above (too loose).</climb>
<climb name="Feed the Man Meat" id="98" fa="Marc Tierney, Micheal Fox, Andrew Brooks, Mar 1989." stars="" number="82." length="23m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="90" guide.action="submit" grade="17" extra="">The high large block with a crusty orange face. Through roof onto steep face. Poor protection.</climb>
<climb name="Taliesin" id="99" fa="Robert McMahon, Neale Smith, Oct 1981." stars="" number="83." length="22m" grade="16">On the first major buttress you come to is a diagonal line starting lower left on the main buttress passing through roof near the top (crux) followed by good but easy corner to finish.</climb>
<climb name="Ygdrassill" id="100" fa="Robert McMahon, John Fantini, Oct 1981." stars="" number="84." length="15m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="92" guide.action="submit" grade="17" extra="">On the right on this face. Very balancey, committing moves rounding rooves, move leftwards to gain jams. Easy to top.</climb>
<climb name="Furless" id="101" fa="Kim Robinson, Aug 1997." stars="" number="85." length="15m" grade="17" extra="">To the right (north) of First Ramp is a striking block with an overhanging base. Follow the crack up the seaward face.</climb>
<text id="102" class="heading3">Travel Land - Upper Tier</text>
<text id="103" class="description">The first sizable piece of rock north of Little Bluestone Bay. To get there head down the track to Little Bluestone Bay and turn left at the end and walk 50m. Easily approached from above or below. You'll be able to recoginise it by the shiny new bolts Norm has placed.</text>
<image id="131" height="800" src="Travel Land.jpg" legendTitle="Travel Land" legend="true" width="1200">
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<legend>
<climb>29</climb>
<climb>104</climb>
<climb>105</climb>
<climb>106</climb>
<climb>107</climb>
<climb>108</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<climb name="Wild Willy" id="104" fa="G Phillips, May 2003." stars="*" number="86." length="8m" grade="24/25" extra="Þ">The overhanging arête left of Hugs n Kisses. Best to stick clip the second bolt or climb on double ropes.</climb>
<climb name="Hugs 'n' Kisses" id="105" fa="Jay Audenart, 1998." stars="" number="87." length="12m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="96" guide.action="submit" grade="23" extra="">Off-width.</climb>
<climb name="Red Line" id="106" fa="G Phillips, Feb 2003." stars="*" number="88." length="8m" grade="27" extra="Þ">Start as for Tribute then swing left and follow bolts up the face.</climb>
<climb name="Tribute" id="107" fa="Norm Selby 12 Oct 2002" stars="**" number="89." length="15m" grade="22" extra="5Þ">Start in corner up slab face with 5 U bolts.</climb>
<climb name="Ekeko" id="108" fa="Norm Selby, 25 Aug 2002" stars="*" number="90." length="14m" grade="21" extra="5Þ">Start just right, stick clip first bolt and up steep face, 5 U bolts.</climb>
<climb name="The Path of the Enigma" id="109" fa="Norm Selby, 12 Oct 2002" stars="" number="91." length="12m" grade="23" extra="4Þ">Start 2m to the right, stick clip the first bolt and go up the arête past 4 U bolts.</climb>
<climb name="Panchamama" id="110" fa="Norm Selby, Cristy Walker, Eloise Bradley, Al Williams 2002" stars="" number="92." length="12m" grade="16" extra="">Off-width. Good fun.</climb>
<text id="133" class="heading3">Travel Land - Lower Tier</text>
<text id="111" class="Discussion">The following routes are straight under Travel Land, at two rap bolts on a point.</text>
<climb name="Mad Moroccan Cabbies" id="112" fa="Norm Selby, Dec 2002." stars="" number="93." length="10m" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="103" guide.action="submit" grade="23" extra="3Þ">Follow the dyke, past 3 u-bolts.</climb>
<climb name="501 Bodega" id="113" fa="Norm Selby, Dec 2002." stars="" number="94." length="10m" grade="22" extra="">The arête with 2 u-bolts plus gear.</climb>
<climb name="Disco Dancing Vegetable Bus" id="114" fa="Norm Selby, Dec 2002." stars="" number="95." length="10m" grade="21">Right hand face and crack, gear to 1 u-bolt.</climb>
<climb name="Natural Athlete in a Barrel" id="115" fa="Nick Hancock, Duncan Shepherd, Kelly-Ann Schilke & Duncan MacGregor Dec 2008." stars="" number="96." length="15m" grade="23" extra="4Þ">The blunt arête 50 m right of Travel Land. Fridge lifting past 4 bolts to a DBB.</climb>
<text id="116" class="heading3">Sentry Box</text>
<text id="117" class="text">From the end of the track at White Stack, the Sentry Box is easily seen about 200m south. It is the big square block with the orange white face. The upper half of Sentry Box takes the crack which splits this face. It can either be approached from White Stack, or northwards around the coast from Little Bluestone, past Travel Land.</text>
<climb name="SentryFridge BoxMagnet" id="118119" fa="F.Moon, W.Moon, 1980Nick Hancock Nov 2004." stars="**" number="97." length="15m10m" grade="1926" extra="4Þ">On>Powerful theside-pulling left hand arête at up the basedouble-edged ofarête thestarting buttress.about Up5 slightlym left of theThe arêteSentinel withvia some4 awkwardbolts balance moves to gain a shallowsingle corner to get under the block. Traverse right to gain the crack and straight up, first on fingerlocks and then good jams.</climb>
<climb name="The Sentinel" id="124" bolt lower-off.</climb>
<climb name="The Sentinel" id="124" fa="Dave Gray, Carol Hurst, Nov 1997." number="98." length="15m18m" grade="21" stars="*" extra="">Start as for Sentry Box. Climb the Sentry Box, continuing straight up the left side of the arête (crux), where Sentry Box escapes right (RPs). (small RP's) - Lower off anchors (unknown origin, now above route)</climb>
<climb name="FridgeSentry MagnetBox" id="119118" fa="Nick Hancock Nov 2004F.Moon, W.Moon, 1980." stars="**" number="99." length="10m15m" grade="2619" extra="4Þ">Powerful side-pulling up">On the left hand arête at the double-edgedbase arêteof startingthe aboutbuttress. 5Up mslightly left of the arête Rainbowwith Groovesome viaawkward 4balance boltsmoves to gain a single bolt lower-off shallow corner to get under the block. Traverse right to gain the crack and straight up, first on fingerlocks and then good jams.</climb>
<climb name="Shogun" id="121" fa="Norm Selby 28 Dec 2003." stars="*" number="100." length="10m" grade="22" extra="3Þ">A lower level double arête with 3 u-bolts. Looking at the Sentry box crack walk directly behind you and go 5m you will reach the top of the climb.</climb>
<text id="122" class="Discussion">There is possibly a climb just south of White Stack. You may find it with this description.</text>
<climb name="Mr. Whimpy Bites the Dust" id="123" fa="P.Hairsine, S.Hairsine, Jan 1988." stars="" number="101." length="40m" grade="19">Directly below the most southerly campsite, the first obvious line visible to the south of the Easter Island lookout. A brilliant route with a great hand-crack at two thirds height.</climb>
</guide>
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