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<guide>
<header id="1" name="Cloudy Bay" walk=".5-1.25hrs" sun="Hidden Zawn - AM; Top Cliff Mostly PM" rock="Dolerite" acknowledgement="By Ben Maddison" intro="There are three main climbing areas at Cloudy Bay at South Bruny Island. The first described is Hidden Zawn, a parallel sided zawn in a spectacular setting on a small peninsula jutting out into Cloudy Bay. It contains a high proportion of good quality routes on excellent granitic dolerite, including powerful trad lines, bolted steep face routes, and some elegant slabs. It is only 20-30 minutes walk from Cloudy Corner campsite. All routes are accessed by abseil. The cliff is well equipped with fixed belays, abseil points and lower-offs. It is less effected by wind than the Top Ciff, and has both shaded and sunny faces.<br/><br/>The second area is the Jaws Peninsula, the home of World's End, a neat little area coming off a sea platform, with a nice concentration of excellent quality climbs. The area also has 3 impressive zawns - Jaws,Jaws 2 and Jaws 3 - currently under development. <br/><br/>The third area is the Top Cliffs, set high up on slabs looking over the Southern Ocean. On sunny afternoons you can see Pedra Branca and the Eddystone. The rock is generally good, hard, pockety granitic dolerite. The climbing is steep and pumpy at the Aviary, less so on the Southern Ocean Face, although here the routes have a big feel as the Southern Ocean bangs away in the zawn below. Because the crag sits on slabs 80+ metres above the sea, the rock does not suffer from the oceanic glaze that characterises many sea cliffs. It is also unaffected by tides and swell, although southerly and westerly winds can be a problem. The BoM’s MetEye function has a South Bruny station, which gives pretty reliable wind and rain forecasts. The routes are mainly single pitch, and you can get away with a single 60m rope on all sections of the crag. There are quite a few mixed routes that require a rack, but on the Aviary there are plenty of sports routes. Most of the fixed gear and lower-offs/rap stations are glued-in U bolts.<br/>" history="" access="From the ferry, take the B66 to Lunawanna, and turn let onto C629. Follow this to the junction with C644, Cloudy Bay Road, and dive to the beach - the drive to Cloudy Bay takes about 50 minutes from the ferry.<br/>Drive down the concrete ramp and along the beach (4wd not needed – usually very hard sand. I once saw a Barina in there, and the truck that fills the water tank at Cloudy Corner makes regular trips along the beach) to campground at Cloudy Corner. Drive clockwise around the perimeter track to park at start of track to East Cloudy Head, marked by tap next to water tank. <br/><br/>NOTE: Due to heavy rains, which has deteriorated the beach access ramp, as of 28 October 2022, vehicle access to Cloudy Corner is closed. Camping at Cloudy Corner is (at there time of writing - 20/10/2022) apparently still permitted. It is 30 minutes to walk across the beach, 15 to cycle.I will keep this info updated as to whether vehicle access is reinstated. <br/><br/>Hidden Zawn<br/>Take the East Cloudy Head track. Follow the main track for 10 minutes, heading up a rise, and steeply down the other side. As it begins to climb again, at the second log erosion control step, take the small but well defined track on the right heading in the direction of a bay. Follow this distinct trail through the brush, until you can actually see the boulders on the beach [about 20 m from the beach]. (Take note of where the track is at this point. It is easy on the return journey to turn up L too soon on a little worn ridge, and get mired in some deep and very thickly scrub-filled gullies.) At this point head R up the tussocky hillside, always keeping to the tussocky and/or worn ground and more or less paralleling the cliff edge. After 10 mins or so, at a cairn, cut R and straight across the hillside, passing a cliff top (Octopus's Garden). Keep heading straight across the bouldery ground in direction of cliff-top boulders ahead of you. Soon you get to the edge of Hidden Zawn, where you can look across and scope out the different areas. Walk around the head of the zawn and across the neck that separates Hidden Zawn from Rumbling Zawn, to the cliff top. Total access time <30minutes.<br/><br/>World's End<br/>Follow the route towards Hidden Zawn. Where the Hidden Zawn track goes right on the shores of Beaufort Bay, hop across the creek to the left, and locate a tagged and cairned track up the hillside above Beaufort Bay. At the crest of the ridge , the track drops through the scrub to a notch at the start of the little peninsula. Follow the track past the notch and onto the peninsula. Walk down past a deep zawn (the area known as Jaws, currently being explored with the first routes being the obvious trad corner Blue Water Classic, gr20, and the crack next right, Sharkbait gr 21). From the slabs above Jaws, go across left toe the track through the scrub, to a landline leading to the ledge at the cliff top (45 mins total now the track has improved). <br/><br/><br/>Top Cliff<br/>Walk up the East Cloudy Head track, past the Hidden Zawn track, up the hill and continuing past the flat area at 35 mins (there is a 4 m diameter patch of flat dolerite left of the track at this point), up the hill and traversing the hillside (spectacular views of the Friars Islands) for a further 15 mins, through a patch of eucalypt forest. The trail to the crag is on the RHS of the main track, 15 meters after the forest ends and the main track heads uphill for the final climb to the top of East Cloudy Head. Follow trampled trail marked by cairns (and a few remnants of degraded orange tape), slanting down diagonally leftwards towards the ocean until, after about 10-15 mins, you reach two large cairns on a rock slab on the RHS of the track. From here there are two main ways to access the crag.<br/> <br/>Access 1: Follow cairns/tapes directly towards sea from these cairns, down beside a slab, to a fixed handline that descends a gully that leads to the bottom of the crag. Follow cliffline rightwards (facing in) from bottom of gully to reach the LHS of the Aviary. <br/><br/>Access 2: from the cairns keep traversing the hillside on the footpad track for 5 mins, until you see a post , which marks the place where you drop down to a good terrace and anchors. Fix a rope (i.e. if you choose this access, you will need to bring a rap rope) and abseil down to the Aviary in the region of Birdbrain/Blackbird. Tip: if there is enough spare rope, you can use it to rig a handline from the first bolts of Powerful Owl (5 m right of abseil) and Your Tern (20 m right again). <br/><br/>The cliff top is quite rubbly and unstable, not so much a problem when you are at the top, but very dangerous if there are people below. For this reason all routes have lower-offs/rap stations. If you use Access 1 you only need to bring a 60 m rope. <br/><br/><br/>" camping="The campground at Cloudy Corner has water and two toilets. Its a great spot, and usually pretty quiet, and a good place to base yourself for a couple of days trip to Cloudy. Fires are permitted but you must bring your own wood. " autonumber="true"/>
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<text id="199" class="heading1">Shoreline</text>
<text id="200" class="text">This is lovely little area is a series of small buttresses situated on the rock platform/slab on the shores of Beaufort Bay. It dries quickly after rain, gets afternoon sun, is often very sheltered despite its position, and is generally a lovely spot to do a few nice climbs and hang out with the ocean. <br/><br/>Access: Start up the track from Beaufort Bay to World’s End. After about 100 m up hill, cut R at an orange tag, and follow the trail across the hillside until it drops down to a pinnacle with a cairn on top. Follow the handline down, and then scramble down to the rock platform. <br/><br/>Routes are described L to R.</text>
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<climb id="202" stars="" extra="" number="1." name="Gift From the Gods " length="18m" grade="16" fa="Gerry Narkowicz, Ben Maddison, Dan Staevert, September 2022">A good trad route. Start at the gulch behind Canute. Step across the gulch and up to ledge. Follow crack up the point of the buttress on good rock. Belay on cams/nuts<br/><br/>Descent: rejoin the scramble down. <br/><br/></climb>
<climb id="203" stars="*" extra="4Þ" number="2." name="Canute " length="14m" grade="17" fa="Ben Maddison, Neale Smith & Dave Stephenson, September 2022">Nice climbing up a blunt arete on pretty big holds to lower-off <br/><br/></climb>
<climb id="204" stars="*" extra="4Þ" number="3." name="Sea Smoke" length="14m" grade="18" fa="Ben Maddison, Neale Smith & Dave Stephenson, September 2022">The next arete R of Canute. Good climbing to DBB. Scramble off.</climb>
<climb id="205" stars="" extra="" number="4." name="Corner " length="12" grade="17" fa="Neale Smith Septembrer 2022">The nice little trad corner L of Canute to DBB bolt. Scramble off</climb>
<text id="207" class="text">The next cluster of routes are 15m R. of the descent</text>
<climb id="209" stars="*" extra="3Þ" number="5." name="Shore Nuff" length="10m" grade="18" fa="Neale Smith September 2022">A good corner, albeit short. Bolt belay on ledge at top. Scramble off<br/><br/></climb>
<climb id="208" stars="**" extra="4Þ" number="6." name="Dirty Little Secret" length="15m" grade="21" fa="Ben Maddison September 2022">Climb the groove via the tasty bolted arete to lower-off</climb>
<climb id="210" stars="*" extra="" number="7." name="Up and Away" length="15m" grade="20" fa="Ben Maddison September 2022">Good climbing up the steep hand crack immediately R of DLS. Use DLS lower-off</climb>
<text id="211" class="text">From the last cluster of climbs, go R about 20m.</text>
<climb id="212" stars="*" extra="" number="8." name="Bivalent" length="18m" grade="20" fa="Ben Maddison & Neale Smith October 2022">Delicate start past 2 B to ledge, then up front of square-cut buttress (2B). Step L and climb the short finger crack (cams), and a bolt to the lower-off. A good climb.<br/><br/></climb>
<climb id="213" stars="*" extra="" number="9." name="Finest Hour" length="15m" grade="17" fa="Neale Smith & Ben Maddison, October 2022">The corner R of Bivalent gives surprisingly nice climbing. Take some handsized gear for low down, and some med size nuts for a crack hidden in the R wall of the summit chimbley.</climb>
<text id="215" class="text">Next routes are 15m up the slab to the R</text>
<climb id="216" stars="" extra="6Þ" number="10." name="Dud Route " length="15m" grade="17" fa="Ben Maddison, October 2022">Didn’t get hard enough. Up to a ledge below an arete. Make a couple of moves up, then step L to climb the slabby face with the great assistance of the wide crack behind you. To lower-off<br/><br/><br/></climb>
<climb id="217" stars="**" extra="" number="11." name="3 Chords and the Truth" length="15m" grade="22" fa="Ben Maddison, October 2022">An excellent mixed outing. Up the face and diagonal seam past 3B, to a trad finish up the diagonal hand crack, leading to steep finger crack to lower-off .<br/><br/><br/></climb>
<climb id="218" stars="**" extra="4Þ" number="12." name="Volumes" length="13m" grade="22" fa="Ben Maddison, October 2022">The last climb of the area, on the buttress 10m up and R of 3 Chords. Fun climbing up the stone ‘volumes’ to lower-off.<br/><br/><br/></climb>
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<text id="45" class="heading1">Hidden Zawn Area</text>
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<text id="109" class="text">The crag order, climbers' left to right, is: Blue Water Wall; Rumbling Zawn; Hidden Zawn; Octopus's Garden. [The next section would read easier if it was arranged that way]</text>
<text id="92" class="heading3">Octopus's Garden</text>
<text id="93" class="text">Octopus's Garden is the area marked by a black slab you pass on the way to Hidden Zawn. Access: 60m rap to shoreline below black slab.</text>
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<climb id="106" stars="" extra="12Þ" number="13." name="The Little Dog Laughed" length="35m" grade="15" fa="Bob Bull, Ingrid Crossland & Ben MaddisonFeb 2018">The rising leftward diagonal line up the black slab. A worthwhile climb. Access. Rap from boulder right above very ledge to DBB on square ledge.<br/><br/>1. Straight off the ledge, following bolts up slab to top.</climb>
<climb id="194" stars="*" extra="12Þ" number="14." name="Hey Diddle Diddle" length="" grade="21" fa="Bob Bull, Neale Smith & Ben Maddison March 2022">Right up the hey diddle diddle between Little Dog and All Jokes. The top pitch goes up a nice series of hanging slabs on the arete. Access: Rap 50m to boulder beach, start at L arete of the black slab.<br/><br/>1. 17. 15m Up arete with some lovely slabby moves. <br/><br/>2.21 30m Above belay, step L onto the series of hanging slabs on the arete, leading to easy finish.</climb>
<climb id="192" stars="*" extra="12Þ" number="15." name="All Jokes Aside" length="55m" grade="17" fa="Bob Bull & Ben Maddison March 2022">The slabby wall climbers R of Little Dog. Access: Abseil 55m from marked anchors<br/>Start slighty R of centre of the wall, beneath a broken groove line.<br/><br/>1. Up the groove onto the slabby wall above to DBB belay.<br/>2. Step R off the belay and follow the upwards diagonal line up the slab with climbing reminiscent of Noise of Time p.2. Exit L from ledge and up easy ground to DBB<br/><br/><br/><br/><br/></climb>
<climb id="193" stars="" extra="5Þ" number="16." name="Play the Game" length="15m" grade="22" fa="Ben Maddison & Neale Smith March 2022">The short arete on the block above and R of All Jokes.Aside <br/><br/>Rap in 20m from the anchors on top the route.<br/><br/>1. Avoid the grunty start by making several moves up the corner till you can step R onto the ledge. Fun climbing on the arete to the top. Play the game, and don't use the corner after the first few moves.</climb>
<text id="94" class="heading3">Rumbling Zawn</text>
<text id="96" class="text">Rumbling Zawn is the subsidiary zawn that almost intersects with the head of Hidden Zawn (and is to the north of it). Unmissable, the zawn that appears on the R as as you walk along the path to access HZ itself.</text>
<climb id="101" stars="**" extra="10Þ" number="17." name="Vigil" length="20m" grade="21" fa="Ben Maddison, Dave Stephenson & Neale Smith December 2018">The prominent bolted arête of the pillar at the head of the zawn . Access: From the track up to HZ, identify location of route and boulder anchors for abseil. Walk along the stony crest that runs atop the zawn. Abseil 30m to top of pillar then down to DBB. <br/><br/>1. Gain arête by L. traverse from belay. Move up with hard moves to an easing finish and DBB. 10B</climb>
<climb id="102" stars="*" extra="7Þ" number="18." name="Eulogy" length="20m" grade="20" fa="Ben Maddison & Nick Hancock November 2018">The bolted groove R of Vigil. Access and belay as for that route. A worthwhile outing.<br/><br/>1. Up steep groove line to DBB.</climb>
<text id="103" class="heading3">Blue Water Wall</text>
<text id="104" class="text">To access this nice little area on the bay side, walk along the stony crest above the north side of Rumbling Zawn. Before the crest ends drop away diagonally R towards the water for a few minutes, heading for a gnarled old dead banksia. Scramble down a break that gives access to a ledge and abseil boulders (i.e. where you have to rig up an anchor with trad gear - cordelette helps - so that you can abseil in).</text>
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<climb id="97" stars="**" extra="" number="19." name="Hallelujah" length="17m" grade="10" fa="Ingrid Crossland & Ben Maddison December 2017">A delightful slab route. Access: abseil from boulder belay to obvious ledge at foot of slab.<br/><br/> 1. Up pleasant slab with cams and wires to belay on boulders.</climb>
<climb id="99" stars="" extra="" number="20." name=" Coopers Slab" length="18m" grade="15" fa="Ben Maddison & Ingrid Crossland December 2017">Access: abseil to platform at base of Blue Water Wall. Start at crack L of slab corner. <br/><br/>1. Up crack awkwardly (about grade 21!) then up pleasant brown slab to boulder belay.</climb>
<climb id="100" stars="*" extra="" number="21." name="Dream Of White Hawsers " length="18m" grade="17" fa="Ben Maddison, Neale Smith, Ingrid Crossland & Dave Stephenson December 2017. ">The crack line L of Before the Goldrush. <br/><br/>Start at foot of slabby groove R of Coopers Slab.<br/><br/>1. Up groove a couple of metres then step R and up into crack line. DBB</climb>
<climb id="144" stars="*" extra="" number="22." name="Just Like a Chocolate Milkshake" length="18m" grade="20" fa="Patrick Munnings & Oscar Purtell, September 2020">Face route on various edges between the two main clack lines at the crag. Finish through top twin cracks and rappel from "Dream of White Hawsers" DBB</climb>
<climb id="98" stars="**" extra="" number="23." name="Before the Goldrush" length="20m" grade="17" fa="Ben Maddison & Ingrid Crossland December 2017">Access: abseil down slab of Hallelujah or Eureka.<br/><br/>1. The central corner crackline. Pleasant climbing up the corner to belay on slab. (note added by climber: awesome fun route well worth while, there is a large boulder 20m back from cliff top if you desire a roped-up exit. Cliff top is quite loose - T.Meech Oct 2019)</climb>
<climb id="145" stars="**" extra="" number="24." name="Yesterday's Meat" length="15m" grade="18" fa="Patrick Munnings & Nick Hanson, September 2020">Trad face line just left of bolts belonging to "Lat it Be". Excellent and varied climbing including pockets, edges, heel hooks and cracks. Gear is good in the top two-thirds of the route. Natural belay on top of route.</climb>
<climb id="107" stars="*" extra="8Þ" number="25." name="Lat it Be" length="18m" grade="17" fa="Louise Shepherd, Ingrid Crossland, Anna Brooks, Feb 2018">The bolted wall route. Fun climbing face climbing to lower of on top slab. 8B</climb>
<climb id="108" stars="**" extra="8Þ" number="26." name="My Brilliant Career" length="18m" grade="20" fa="Louise Shepherd, Anna Brooks, Ingrid Crossland Feb 2018">The funky bolted arete, R of Lat</climb>
<climb id="146" stars="*" extra="" number="27." name="To Squeeze or Not to Be" length="15" grade="15" fa="fraser labine romain & alex lawson, Sep 2020">Around arete, to the right of my brilliant career. Start up chimney then negotiating squeeze bulge, and perfect hands and fist crack on good rock. Top of or tranverse to DBB of my brilliant career.</climb>
<climb id="147" stars="*" extra="" number="28." name="Juicy Loosey" length="21" grade="17" fa="fraser labine romain & alex lawson, Sep 2020">Continue left(facing out) from bluewater wall, run across wavy, slimy shelf to access corner crack. Start up very slimy layback then up through good crack and corner and top out belay of huge boulder 10-15m back from cliff. Lots of choss removed but be cautious. Good protection.</climb>
<text id="105" class="heading3">Hidden Zawn</text>
<image id="47" width="800" height="349" src="IMG_2847.JPG">
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<rect id="34693" x="645" y="167" width="74" height="22" style="black_text_on_solid_white" text="Bull Pinnacle" arrowDirection="west"/>
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<rect id="70038" x="729" y="39" width="66" height="22" style="black_text_on_solid_white" text="Cloudy Bay" arrowDirection="south"/>
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<text id="48" class="heading3">Seaward Slabs</text>
<text id="49" class="text">On the most seaward end of the zawn is a set of slabs capped by a steep headwall in the centre, riven by the leftwards diagonal line of The Slash, with the elegant slab route on the right - The Noise of Time. The climbing offers a number of bolted slab routes, with trad pitches on a couple of routes, in a brilliant open position looking across Beaufort Bay.<br/><br/>Access: <br/>For climbs from C'est la Vee to Zydeco, rappel 45m from U bolt anchors at top of When I'm 64. <br/>For climbs from Noise of Time to Blue Bayou, rappel from U bolt anchors sitting at the edge of a flat slab on the edge of the cliff above Noise of Time finish. Walk along the cliff top to where it levels out past the Ramps access bolts. The objective is to rappel 50m to the substantial ledge with DBB that is the second belay of the Noise of Time. From here you can either continue rapping to the starting belays of Noise of Time and Tome & Tide, or access the four other routes that depart leftwards from this ledge. <br/></text>
<image id="127" src="2019-03-07_CloudyBay_SeawardSlabs1.jpg" height="876" width="800" legend="true" legendTitle="Seaward Slabs">
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<climb>131</climb>
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<climb>139</climb>
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<climb id="128" stars="**" extra="9Þ" number="29." name="C'est la Vee" length="20m" grade="21" fa="Ben Maddison and Dave Stephenson, March 2019">Access: Rap 40m to DBB.<br/><br/>Climb groove through inverted V to slabby finish. Great moves.</climb>
<climb id="131" stars="**" extra="19Þ" number="30." name="When I'm 64" length="45m" grade="20" fa="Ben Maddison P1 and Dave Stephenson P2, 8 April 2019">Two terrific varied pitches on the far left side of the slabs. Some old dog's birthday route.<br/>Access: Rap 45m to DBB on small stance just right of gully.<br/>1. 18 30m. Step up and right and follow line of bolts up slab, passing two interesting overlaps to DBB at grassy stance. 12 bolts.<br/>2. 20 15m. Start up corner, moving right to arête then over intimidating roof to spectacular finish on hanging arête. 7 bolts.</climb>
<climb id="140" stars="*" extra="mixed" number="31." name="The Gumbo Variations" length="50m" grade="18" fa="Dave Stephenson (P1), Neale Smith (P2), Ben Maddison. April 2019">A mixed Creole delight.<br/>Access: Rap 45m to DBB on small stance just right of gully, as for When I'm 64.<br/>1. 18 30m. Climb When I'm 64 to the start of the second overlap, but continue up the corner to the right with good cams to follow The Slash over the bulge to the DBB of When I'm 64.<br/>2. 16 20m. Climb past the first two bolts of When I'm 64 to below the overhang, then continue to follow the overlap right with good cams to finish at the top DBB.</climb>
<climb id="139" stars="**" extra="14Þ" number="32." name="Zydeco" length="45" grade="20" fa="Dave Stephenson (P1), Ben Maddison (P2), Neale Smith. April 2019">Two very nice pitches, finishing up the overhanging headwall.<br/>Access: rap 45m from DBB at top of When I'm 64, to a small stance with DBB at the base of the slab.<br/>1. 16 30m. Pleasant slabbing between twin cracks leads to a DBB below the overhangs. 7 bolts. <br/>1. 20 15m. Great moves over the first overhang, then the steep corner, pulling right at the second overhang to finish up the final slab of Blue Bayou at a DBB. 7 bolts. Scramble to top.</climb>
<climb id="124" stars="***" extra="15Þ" number="33." name="Blue Bayou" length="45m" grade="20" fa=" Ben Maddison & Dave Stephenson. January 2019 ">An excellent slab route on good rock in a specky position. Tasty!<br/><br/>Start: on second belay of Noise of Time, or alternatively, from bottom of Zydeco.<br/><br/>1. Climb up L diagonal (The Slash), clipping first bolt of Armenian Rhapsody. Step L to ledge and follow line direct to steep slab below rooves. Up and L across slab (crux) below roof. Turn Roof on L, and up to DBB. Scramble to top.</climb>
<climb id="123" stars="**" extra="mixed " number="34." name="Armenian Rhapsody" length="50m" grade="22" fa="Dave Stephenson (P1) and Ben Maddison (P2) January 2019">A good route with a finger crack in the headwall as the highlight. Take single cams from small fingers through to to handsize. <br/><br/>Start: On second belay for Noise of Time.<br/><br/>1. 19 25m. Up Slash for 2 metres, then up nice bolted slab, to DBB in alcove beneath grooves of headwall. 12Þ<br/>2. 22 25m. Up and R to start of tricky finger crack. Up feisty crack with excellent pro to horizontal break. Short and airy hand traverse L to finish.</climb>
<climb id="120" stars="**" extra="mixed" number="35." name="Timelaps" length="50m" grade="18" fa="Ben Maddison, Neale Smith & Dave Stephenson, December 2018.">Access: rap in as for Noise of Time<br/>Start: At second belay on Noise of Time. <br/>1. Up the bolted slab, R of chossy corner, stepping R at the top to double bolt belay.<br/>2. 18m Up past 2 bolts into funky groove with good cams and nuts. Direct finish continues in line up crack to top. <br/> <br/>OR Exit R to DBB on ledge and p3.12m Up easy corner R of belay.<br/><br/></climb>
<climb id="76" stars="" extra="" number="36." name="The Slash" length="55m" grade="16" fa="Ben Maddison & Bob Bull 2017">Abseil access as for The Noise of Time. Good and well protected trad climbing. <br/><br/>1. From belay take the leftwards diagonal feature across the slab. Steeply through the bulge, and continue up line to exit up gully. Block belay.</climb>
<climb id="50" stars="***" extra="Þ" number="37." name="The Noise of Time" length="60m" grade="18" fa="Ben Maddison & Ingrid Crossland April 2017">A slabby route offering good climbing in a great position. Originally done with cams and wires, but now all bolt protected, and with a bottom pitch. <br/><br/>Access: Rap in trending leftwards from anchors on top of route. 50m to rings at belay 2; 65m (or 50m and 15m rap from belay 2 rings) to reach small ledge and double bolt belay of pitch 1.<br/><br/>1. 15m Step up and R from belay edge, and L onto blunt nose to belay 2 (4B). <br/>2. 15m Step R off ledge, and up slab trending R to belay ledge. (8B)<br/>3. 27m Up groove and step R and up slab to large ledge. (12B) <br/>4. 13m Up steep wall above belay on good holds, past 2 U bolts, and step R and up final crack (1B) to top.<br/></climb>
<climb id="188" stars="**" extra="20Þ" number="38." name="Time and Tide" length="60m" grade="20" fa="Ben Maddison & Bob Bull February 2022">A companion route to Noise of Time, taking an unlikely traverse on the first pitch, and a slabby second pitch redolent of NoT, in a spekky pozzie. Take half a dozen 'alpine' draws, to obviate rope drag on P.1. <br/><br/>Access: From the NoT abseil anchors, the objective is to get to a DBB 12m down and right from the anchors at top of Pitch 1 of NoT. A 60m rope would do the job in one hit, abseiling straight down the slabs of NoT. Alternatively, do the 50m abseil to the p.1 NoT anchors , then use your lead rope from here to make the 12m abseil down and climber's right to the DBB.<br/><br/>1. (20) 35m Traverse R across the initial slab, making tricky move into a groove. Up 2m and across the obvious rightwards ascending line. Climb up the easier slabby section to the roof. Hang a left, and up to belay.<br/>2.(17) 25m From belay, climb diagonally R across slab to arete, up short groove and continue up arete to belay ledge shared with NoT. <br/><br/>Finish up NoT P.4.</climb>
<text id="81" class="heading2">The Ramp</text>
<text id="82" class="text">The wall above the ramp that forms the main access to Beaufort Wall. Access: Rap 25m from rap station as for Beaufort Wall. Belay off rings at base of routes.</text>
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<climb id="119" stars="**" extra="mixed" number="39." name="Guardian Angel" length="18m" grade="21" fa="Ben Maddison & Neale Smith November 2018">Interesting climbing with a short lived crux. Start as for Lady Barrister, and move L over bulge and up finger flake; traverse 2 m R at top of flake, to hand crack to top.</climb>
<climb id="113" stars="**" extra="mixed" number="40." name="Lady Barrister" length="18m" grade="18" fa="Ben Maddison & Neale Smith November 2018">A lovely route. Start at the double bolt belay on the slab. A few medium cams lead to the final 4 bolts</climb>
<climb id="90" stars="*" extra="trad" number="41." name="Grizzling Groove" length="18m" grade="19" fa="Ben Maddison & Ingrid Crossland January 2018">A fun trad route. Access and start as for TC.<br/><br/>Up the steep cracks, stepping R at steepening, then back left into line. Finish steeply up flake.</climb>
<climb id="79" stars="**" extra="Trad" number="42." name="Three's Company" length="18m" grade="17" fa="Ben Maddison, Ingrid Crossland & Greg Mortimer January 2018">The main groove amd corner line. Very nice climbing with good gear, nice moves and good rock.<br/><br/>1. Climb the groove past a small overklap and up to step exit L at top of final corner.</climb>
<climb id="89" stars="*" extra="10Þ" number="43." name=" Health and Safety is My Passion " length="18m" grade="20" fa="Ben Maddison, Greg Mortimer & Ingrid Crossland January 2018">The bolted groove R of HSIMP. Nice open groove climbing with the crux at final corner.</climb>
<climb id="121" stars="**" extra="12Þ" number="44." name="Juju Eyeballs" length="28m" grade="20" fa="Ben Maddison, Dave Stephenson & Neale Smith, December 2018.">The steep chocolate slab at the foot of the Ramp. Access: keep rapping 8m past Workplace Health and Safety to double bolt belay on ledge at foot of route. <br/><br/>1. Step up and around past bolt to foot of climb. Marvellous slab climbing past 12 bolts. Two finishes lead to two sets of lower-offs. Or top out to bolt anchors 3m back from edge. <br/></climb>
<text id="51" class="heading2">Beaufort Wall</text>
<text id="52" class="text">A wall of beautiful dark compact stone. A handful of truly excellent routes. Access: Locate DBB at top of the prominent steep slab that runs underneath the Ramps area. Rap 60m, keeping to RHS of ramp, to large platform.</text>
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<climb id="53" stars="***" extra="trad" number="45." name="Force 10" length="45m" grade="21" fa="Ben Maddison & Neale Smith October 2017">The diagonal line on the L of the wall. Classic jambing with great gear on excellent rock.<br/><br/>1. 25m Up the steep L trending crack. Excellent climbing with a lot of great hand jambs, foot work on the face, to a stellar finish. DBB belay/lower-off<br/>2. 20m Up wide crack on R of corner above belay, step R after steepening and up R to DBB belay. Exit up and R, with a couple of slung spikes for pro. <br/> <br/><br/></climb>
<climb id="75" stars="**" extra="8Þ" number="46." name="Syncopate" length="18m" grade="19" fa="Ben Maddison & Ingrid Crossland December 2017">A very nice flowing piece of climbing. A good, sporty alternative finish to Force 10 or The Null Hypothesis.<br/><br/>Start just L of the corner above the Force 10 belay, pitch 1. L and up through bulge on great holds, to a steep finish. Either lower off, or move up past lower off to thread belay on ledge. Exit 15m R up easy ground to top.</climb>
<climb id="64" stars="***" extra="mixed" number="47." name="The Bittersweet" length="42 m" grade="22" fa="Ben Maddison & Ben Griggs January 2018">An excellent example of the fading art of trad climbing. The brilliant groove/flake between F10 and NH. Great natural gear, with two U's to protect the top crux. Take a rack of cams, including 1 or 2 '000' micros and 2 x #3 Camelots, plus 3 slings or longer draws.<br/><br/>1. 30m Up into groove,surmount the first crux ('000' microcams). At undercling above, hard moves L onto face (finger-sized cam in crack up and R of undercling)lead to brilliant rails (and #3 cam placement). Regain groove line, and follow flake more easily to hard finishing moves past 2'U's.Up to lower off, or slightly above, to DBB on stance. <br/>2. 12m (19) The bolted arete above past 5 bolts to DBB. <br/><br/>Scramble to top up R with a couple of slung spikes for pro.</climb>
<climb id="63" stars="***" extra="20Þ" number="48." name="The Null Hypothesis" length="30m" grade="22" fa="Ben Maddison & Ingrid Crossland, November 2017">The bolted line on the right side of the wall. Excellent rock, great climbing. Take a couple of longer draws. <br/><br/>Pull the hard start, then up the left-trending line, steady but pumpy face climbing using fins, vertical rails and layaways. Traverse 3 m L at top to belay on The Bittersweet stance. Lower off, or exit up Bittersweet p.2 (19, 12m).</climb>
<text id="54" class="heading2">Mælstrom Wall</text>
<text id="55" class="text">A beautiful wall with an adventurous feel, the first area climbed on at Hidden Zawn. The main pitches of White Noise, Maelstrom and Green Dream all start from above a little overlap that protects these routes from spray in high seas. The top of Maelstrom Wall is best identified by locating the two rap stations that lead down the wall. One is located on the seaward side of a large boulder. This gives access to White Noise, Maelstrom and the Green Dream. The other is on a slab a few metres left (looking out). This gives access to the Green Dream, Blue Devil, Coconut Corner and Finnegan’s Wake. <br/><br/>To access White Noise, position the rope down to the R (looking out) of the banksia. Abseil down the slabby wall that forms the left side of the arête that White Noise goes up on its right. After 8 m you come to the DBB at the top of P 1. You can leave a rack here – a few med wires if you are going to finish up P2 of White Noise; a full rack if you want to rap from here to do Mælstrom. (You can also get to Green Dream from this point too.) Continue abseiling on L side of arête, to double bolt belay on ledge at 30m. <br/><br/>To access Mælstrom and Green Dream from the top, position rope to L (looking out) of banksia. 30m to semi-hanging belays on double rings at foot ledges at start of both routes.<br/> To access Blue Devil, Coconut Corn and Finnegan's Wake, rap to ledge at foot of Coconut Corner.</text>
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<climb id="56" stars="***" extra="13Þ" number="49." name="White Noise " length="30m" grade="21" fa="Ben Maddison /Ingrid Crossland October 2017">1. 21 From belay ledge, step R around arête and climb diagonally up R, then direct past 11 bolts to DBB stance on arête. <br/>2. 14 A nice little finishing pitch up the point of the arête, taking a few med wires. <br/><br/><br/></climb>
<climb id="69" stars="**" extra="trad" number="50." name="Mælstrom" length="25m" grade="19" fa=" Ben Maddison, Tony McKenny, April 2017">A great trad route. Excellent gear. Start: Abseil to double rings.<br/><br/>1. The crack to DBB. To finish exit up WN, p2. <br/><br/><br/></climb>
<climb id="74" stars="***" extra="12 Þ" number="51." name="The Green Dream " length="20m" grade="22" fa="Ben Maddison & Brian Burfitt July 2017">Face R of Mælstrom. Access: 25m rap from anchors in slab above Blue Devil, to semi-hanging DBB. Also can be accessed from rings at top of M or WN, p.1.<br/><br/>1 A technical start leads to more moderate but surprisingly pumpy climbing. Exit with a frustrating pull onto slab and DBB. Brilliant. 12 B Either lower or rap from here to another route, or head up the bolted Exit route to top out.<br/></climb>
<climb id="70" stars="***" extra="trad" number="52." name="Blue Devil Cracks" length="20m" grade="21" fa="Ben Maddison & Ingrid Crossland October 2017">The line between GD and CC. A steep, exhilarating and well protected outing. Take a full rack down to med wires. Crack climbing gives way to a technical and facy crux at half height. Start at DBB on ledge at foot of Coconut Corner.<br/>1. Up CC for 3 m and step L and up to foot of wide crack. Up initial crack (#3 or #4 cam, then #4 cam), to sustained handjambing until forced L at 12m. Up (#3 cam) to crux, and finish direct past good medium wires. Pull onto slab and am belay. Exit up slabby rock to top.<br/><br/></climb>
<climb id="71" stars="*" extra="trad" number="53." name="Coconut Corner" length="30" grade="18" fa="Ben Maddison & Ingrid Crossland October 2017">A classic corner with great pro. Access: 30m rap from anchors in slab above Blue Devil, to ledge at foot of corner.<br/>1. Up bridging corner through a couple of steepenings to ledge. Up straightforward final crack to exit R on horizontal breaks to top. <br/><br/><br/></climb>
<climb id="72" stars="***" extra="16Þ" number="54." name="Finnegan’s Wake " length="30m" grade="22" fa="Ben Maddison & Neale Smith October 2017">Access: Rap 30m down Blue Devil to DBB on Coconut Corner ledge.<br/><br/>1. From Coconut Ledge step up and R and follow slabby line to steeper rock. Beautiful moves lead to a sharp crux at two thirds height, and L up flake and easier angled rock to lower off/ top out.<br/><br/> <br/></climb>
<text id="67" class="heading3">Elephanthide Wall</text>
<text id="88" class="text">A wall of crinkled and heavily featured rock, right of Maelstrom Wall. Rap from DBB (there are a few rap anchor options- the set 15cm back from the cliff edge allow single rope abseils of 30m, but the set among the bushes requires a 70m rope).</text>
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<climb id="86" stars="***" extra="17Þ" number="55." name="Deep Six" length="40m" grade="23" fa="Ben Maddison & Nick Hancock January 2018">Access: Rap 45m from station above Elephanthide Wall, to DBB at stance below roof. <br/><br/>Excellent climbing up cracks, ears, and breaks, with crux at half height.</climb>
<climb id="180" stars="***" extra="22Þ" number="56." name="Deep Trunk" length="40m" grade="22" fa="David Stephenson and Ben Maddison, Feb 2022">Lower start below and to the left of Trunk Music - rap 45m from top anchor to DBB at small stance on arete. Adds 8m of more technical climbing up a seam to join Trunk Music - stellar option when dry.<br/></climb>
<climb id="129" stars="***" extra="17Þ" number="57." name="Trunk Music" length="32m" grade="21" fa="David Stephenson and Neale Smith, March 2019">Access: Rap 40m from top anchor to DBB at small stance to right.<br/>Great climbing up cracks, ears, and rails.</climb>
<climb id="87" stars="*" extra="trad" number="58." name="Big Ears" length="25m" grade="20" fa="Ben Maddison & Ingrid Crossland December 2017">Access: Rap 25m to belay on ledge system next to crack.<br/>A good trad route in an exciting position. Take a full rack.<br/><br/>Climb the main crack to R of belay, step L after 3m to face cracks,finishing up juggy breaks. <br/><br/></climb>
<text id="68" class="heading3">Bull Pinnacle</text>
<climb id="170" stars="**" extra="17Þ" number="59." name="Kidnapped" length="25m" grade="22" fa="Ben Maddison & Daniel Stavert May 2021">The left arete and wall of Bull Pinnacle.<br/><br/>Excellent arete and face climbing.<br/><br/>Access: From the anchors just near those for Elephanthide Wall, rap down to the notch between the Pinnacle and the mainland. Fix the rope to the top anchors and rap the route to the belay anchors.<br/><br/>1. head up and L to arete, and a section of tricky arete climbing. Take care to use a couple of longer draws to avoid rope drag. A final hard move onto the slabby wall, then straight up with a couple of thin sections.<br/></climb>
<climb id="171" stars="*" extra="12Þ" number="60." name="Zugzwang" length="20m" grade="21" fa="Ben Maddison & Bob Bull, June 2021">The central arete of Bull Pinnacle. The line R of Kidnapped. All bolted.<br/><br/>Access: From the anchors just near those for Elephanthide Wall, rap down to the notch between the Pinnacle and the mainland, and onto the ledge with more anchors. Rap straight down face to ledge with DBB.<br/><br/>1. Tricky start leads up and L to arete. Tricky step around L after 15m leads to easier climbing. Step R at top of arete and onto belay ledge and anchors.</climb>
<text id="133" class="heading3">Zawn Wall</text>
<text id="136" class="text">Zawn Wall is the vertical featured wall, directly across the Zawn from Maelstrom Wall. <br/><br/>Access: from a DBB just below the top of the point, abseil 15m down clifftop bushes and boulders. It is safest to bring the whole party down this section, to the DBB at the top of the climb you are going to do. Then rap another 25-45m to the DBB at the base of your chosen route.</text>
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<climb>165</climb>
<climb>137</climb>
<climb>164</climb>
<climb>138</climb>
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<climb id="165" stars="*" extra="trad" number="61." name="White lightning ⚡" length="40m" grade="19" fa="Grechy & Sam Beaver January 2021">The crack line L of Zawn Wall. Originally climbed in two pitches to share the love but best done in one. Rap straight down the cliff from the top anchor and set up a natural anchor in line with the start of Zawn wall. Climb the first crack system via some interesting and fun moves to a ledge, then take the corner and left hand crack with some cool stemming before pulling up right of the boulder and climbing nicely to the top to a natural anchor</climb>
<climb id="137" stars="***" extra="" number="62." name="Zawn Wall" length="35m" grade="21" fa="Ben Maddison, Neale Smith, Dave Stephenson. April 2019">Stellar climbing with great gear. Sustained crack and face climbing in an envigorating position. Rack should include set of cams from gold down, with several finger-size, and a collection of small-medium wires. <br/><br/>Access: Abseil to SBB belay that can be backed up with gear on small ledge. <br/>1. 18m (21). Climb the prominent jagged crack past a number of horizontal breaks to a DBB on the next ledge. <br/>2. 17m (19). Continue up the flake on the left, to a thin step right, finishing up the groove to a DBB.</climb>
<climb id="164" stars="*" extra="mixed" number="63." name="Ocean Cruise" length="35m" grade="19" fa="David Stephenson and Ben Maddison, February 2021.">Nice climbing to the right of Zawn Wall. A DBB belay at the start of the bolted top half allows it to be broken into two pitches or for an independent sport route if you don't bring a rack for the first half, but best done as one pitch if you have the gear - a single rack of cams to #3 should do.<br/>Access: Abseil from DBB at top of Zawn Wall to lowest DBB belay on small ledge to right of Zawn Wall belay.<br/>1. 15m (16) Climb cracks to pull onto Titanic belay ledge, then up short corner to the top of pedestal and DBB.<br/>2. 20m (19) Follow series of flakes up bolted wall, finishing up thin crack to right of Zawn Wall. Step back left to DBB.<br/></climb>
<climb id="138" stars="**" extra="Þ14" number="64." name="Titanic " length="25m" grade="23" fa="Ben Maddison. April 2020">1. Good climbing up the bolted line on the arete. Sustained and exciting possie.</climb>
<text id="149" class="heading1">World's End</text>
<text id="150" class="text">This aptly-named crag offers a great day out with moderate sport climbs on fantastic rock, in an extraordinary location. Situated on a separate peninsula, it is the neat little cliff on the waterline that you can see looking back from the Aviary, about one-hours walk from the carpark. The cliff is shaded, and can be affected by swell, so choose a period of relatively calm seas and a warm day. <br/><br/>ACCESS<br/>Follow directions to Hidden Zawn. Where the route to Hidden Zawn turns right at Beaufort Bay, hop over the creek to the left, and pick up an orange-tagged trail heading up the hillside. The pad is faint, but as it goes over the headland and down the hill to the narrow notch which joins the peninsula, it becomes a well-defined track. GPS the Notch: -43.479845, 147.245689<br/>Continue up the other side of the notch by scrambling up the boulders on the ridge to then pick up another track. Follow the track to the open slabs above a deep zawn (the area known as Jaws). Head left down the slabs past Jaws, and back into the scrub following the track down steeply for a couple of minutes to a hand-line (this is about 45 minutes from Beaufort Bay). From here you have two options:<br/>a) Amble down rightwards for Blancmange or Three Amigos, or<br/>b) Make your way straight down the steep hillside using the handline to the substantial platform at the top of the main cliff (and rap station). <br/><br/>GPS approximate World’s End: -43.482138, 147.242602<br/></text>
<text id="190" class="heading3">World's End - Main Cliff</text>
<text id="191" class="text">Access:<br/>Make your way down the steep hillside using the handline to the substantial platform at the top of the cliff. 20 m abseil from rap station on RHS (looking out) to sea platform. It is possible to scramble out with care on the RHS (looking at cliff). Routes described from L to R.</text>
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<climb>151</climb>
<climb>152</climb>
<climb>153</climb>
<climb>155</climb>
<climb>156</climb>
<climb>157</climb>
<climb>169</climb>
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<climb id="169" stars="**" extra="" number="65." name="Bruny Black" length="20m" grade="21" fa="Ben Maddison & Gerry Narko Jan 2021">Almost good as the Bruny brewed beer of the same name. <br/><br/>Climbs the black corner 2m L of Mind and Body</climb>
<climb id="157" stars="***" extra="" number="66." name=" Mind and Body" length="20m" grade="23/24" fa=" Ben Maddison & Toby Story September 2020, Direct Start on gear H Jackson and S. Joseph 2022"><br/>Mind and Body 20m 23 ***<br/><br/>A classic. Start as for Heart and Soul, step L and up sustained shallow grooves and arête. <br/><br/>The Direct Start 24 up the funky shallow layback groove is well worth a go if dry (requires 2 x 0.3 camalots)<br/></climb>
<climb id="156" stars="***" extra="" number="67." name=" Heart and Soul" length="20m" grade="21" fa=" Ben Maddison, February 2020"><br/>A real beauty. Classy face climbing starting at the crack 2m L of Pirate Life.<br/><br/></climb>
<climb id="155" stars="**" extra="" number="68." name=" Pirate Life" length="20m" grade="21" fa=" Ben Maddison, February 2020">The funky bolted stemming groove that you rap down. <br/><br/><br/></climb>
<climb id="153" stars="**" extra="" number="69." name=" Pincer" length="20m" grade="22" fa="Andrew Martin, January 2020."><br/>Sustained excellence up the groove near the central arête. Some cruxy moves around the rooflet lead to a tricky section at the top. <br/></climb>
<climb id="152" stars="**" extra="" number="70." name=" Quollity Control " length="18m" grade="20" fa=" Gerry Narkowicz, January 2020."><br/>Looks improbable for the grade. A reachy move getting over the small roof at the bottom, followed by lovely, technical face climbing. Named after Gerry’s encounter with a quoll the night before.<br/><br/></climb>
<climb id="151" stars="*" extra="" number="71." name="Against Perfection " length="17m" grade="18" fa="FA: Ben Maddison, January 2020."><br/>Tricky starting moves lead to exhilarating climbing on big holds and a puzzling finish. <br/><br/><br/>.<br/></climb>
<text id="158" class="heading3">World's End - Three Amigos Area<br/></text>
<text id="159" class="text">The trio of cracks across and left from the main cliff area. Access involves using the handline to traverse across the cliff top and down to the top of the buttress. Here, build a trad anchor and rap into the ledge from which the three prominent crack lines start. Trad belay on ledge, using wires and small-med cams.<br/><br/><br/></text>
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<climb>156</climb>
<climb>157</climb>
<climb>187</climb>
<climb>186</climb>
<climb>160</climb>
<climb>161</climb>
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<climb id="160" stars="*" extra="Trad" number="72." name="A Few Good Blokes at the End of the World " length="20m" grade="21" fa="Gerry Narkowicz, Neale Smith and Ben Maddison, February 2020.">A Few Good Blokes at the End of the World 20m 21 *<br/>That’s us. Stout jamming up the LH crack. <br/><br/><br/></climb>
<climb id="186" stars="**" extra="trad" number="73." name="Pavarotti" length="20m" grade="22" fa="Ben Maddison & Daniel Stavert, Jan 2022">An excellent climb. Good rock, good gear, sustained. Take double large to medium cams, and a selection of finger and small finger sizes. Medium wires. <br/><br/>Climb the corner, crux at half height.</climb>
<climb id="187" stars="" extra="" number="74." name="Neales Route" length="20m" grade="" fa="project">The right hand of the 3 Amigos. Reserved for Neale Smith</climb>
<text id="172" class="heading3">World's End - Blancmange Bluff</text>
<text id="173" class="text">Blancmange Bluff is the short, neat wall adjacent to the Three Amigos area. It faces out to sea and looks onto the gigantic blancmange of rock and seaweed being swept over by the ocean. The rock quality here is excellent, and carries some nice trad and bolted routes. The routes are described from L to R. Access is by abseil from boulders and gear anchors.</text>
<climb id="177" stars="*" extra="trad" number="75." name="Midget Kim" length="15m" grade="17" fa="Ben Maddison & Gerry Narkowicz July 2021">The next crack. Also very nice trad climbing</climb>
<climb id="161" stars="*" extra="trad" number="76." name=" Blancmange Brigade" length="15m" grade="17" fa=" Gerry Narkowicz, Ben Maddison and Andrew Martin, January 2020">Blancmange Brigade 15m 17 * <br/> <br/>The delightful trad crack and groove R of WA(P)A.</climb>
<climb id="176" stars="**" extra="Þ8" number="77." name="We Are Artists" length="15" grade="22" fa="Gerry Narkowicz October 2021">the beautiful bolted face L of We Are Giants and Blancmange Brigade. Staer from belay at foot of WAG</climb>
<climb id="175" stars="*" extra="" number="78." name="We Are Giants" length="15m" grade="18" fa="Gerry Narkowicz & Ben Maddison July 2021">Rap the line to belay ledge. Climb the crack with good trad gear</climb>
<climb id="174" stars="" extra="Þ5" number="79." name="We Are Fanatics" length="15m" grade="23" fa="Ben Maddison Jan 2022">Climb the crack R of We Are Giants. Start from DBB at foot of WAG</climb>
<text id="61" class="heading1">Cloudy Bay Top Cliff</text>
<text id="62" class="text">see access notes in Intro.</text>
<text id="30" class="heading2">The Aviary</text>
<text id="3" class="intro">Is an amphitheatre set above the slabs that roll 100+ metres into Cloudy Bay. Facing west and north, it is a sun trap, can be nice on a winters afternoon, and is quite sheltered from all but westerly and southerly winds. If its windy the routes on the left hand end are often sheltered. The Aviary has a heap of good quality routes, characterised by good rock, and quite unique climbing featuring steep flake and pocket sequences, punctuated with fingery crux sections. Most routes here are bolt equipped, although some classics such as Blackbird and Spirit Rising require gear. Routes are described left to right, and spread across the amphitheatre from the very recognisable Cloacca Crack on the left hand side, to Footnote, on the lower right hand end.</text>
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<climb>6</climb>
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<climb>8</climb>
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<climb id="2" stars="" extra="" number="80." name="Cloacca Crack" length="20m" grade="16" fa="G. Mortimer & P. Mills March 2016">The black and evil corner at the left end of the Aviary. The name says it all.</climb>
<climb id="5" stars="**" extra="10Þ" number="81." name=" Birdbrain" length="25m" grade="21" fa="B. Maddison & B. Bull September 2016">Start: 3m R of CC. Steep start through overlap then up groove to tricky finish. 10 B and DBB</climb>
<climb id="6" stars="***" extra="mixed" number="82." name="Blackbird" length="25m" grade="21" fa="B. Maddison & I. Crossland February 2016">Start: 2 m R of Birdbrain. Tricky start moves past two bolts, into cracks and flake (6/7 Rock), cruxy moves past two more bolts lead into corner (medium cams) and final rooflet (finger-size cam at lip) to DBB. <br/></climb>
<climb id="7" stars="***" extra="15Þ" number="83." name="Desert Raven" length="25m" grade="23" fa="B. Maddison & I. Crossland, February 2016 "><br/>2m R of Blackbird. Great route with only 3 cruxes. Steep pockets and flakes past two cruxes and final hard move to DBB on ledge. Ignore the L of the two bolts on the final moves <br/></climb>
<climb id="8" stars="***" extra="13Þ" number="84." name="Crow" length="25m" grade="22" fa="Ben Maddison & Ingrid Crossland September 2016">Start: 2 m R of Desert Raven. <br/> Enjoyable climbing on flakes and pockets with a fingery technical crux at 2/3 height. Up the pockets to a hard move R and up under roof. Turn roof on the L, and up to a laybacking finish up the black arête. DBB. <br/></climb>
<climb id="9" stars="" extra="" number="85." name="Greg’s Crack" length="" grade="" fa="">The black crack R of Crow. Awaits first ascent.</climb>
<climb id="10" stars="***" extra="9Þ" number="86." name="Powerful Owl" length="" grade="24" fa="B. Maddison & I Crossland October 2016">Start 2m R of GC.<br/>Up the steep and beautifully-pocketed wall and groove above to DBB.<br/><br/></climb>
<climb id="148" stars="**" extra="9Þ " number="87." name="Superb Fairy Wren" length="18m" grade="22" fa="Ben Maddison November 2020">Start 4m R Powerful Owl.<br/><br/>Punchy little groove surmounting rooflet to lower-off.</climb>
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<climb id="11" stars="*" extra="9Þ" number="88." name="Your Tern " length="25m" grade="19" fa="Ben Maddison & Ingrid Crossland March 2016">Start. 5 m R of Grouse, at line of bolts with fixed hangers. <br/>Flakes lead up long grey scoop, turning roof on L. DBB belay. <br/></climb>
<climb id="12" stars="*" extra="9Þ" number="89." name="Blood Eagle" length="20m" grade="21" fa="B. Maddison/Brian Burfitt September 2016">Start. 2 m R of YT<br/>Good steep face climbing up the arête line. After bolt 7, either step L into groove for a couple of moves then back R on arête or (better) continue straight up arête (22) to DBB. <br/></climb>
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<climb id="13" stars="***" extra="mixed" number="90." name="Depth Charge" length="25m" grade="20" fa=" B. Maddison/I Crossland October 2016">Start: 12 m R of Blood Eagle, at foot of grey corner capped by roof, with crack & flakes on L and R walls. The crack line in L wall of corner. Up steep cracks through bulge with great gear (cams and med wires), turning roof on L, past 4 bolts to DBB.<br/></climb>
<climb id="184" stars="" extra="13Þ" number="91." name="Whirling Dervish" length="" grade="" fa="">project</climb>
<climb id="14" stars="**" extra="" number="92." name="Spirit Rising" length="25m" grade="19" fa="B. Maddison & I. Crossland March 2016">Start 2m R of DC. Good moves, great rock and gear, including a #3 cam for pocket at 2/3 height.<br/> Up cracks and flakes on R wall of corner. Where the roof starts to steepen up at 3/4 height, step R onto a foothold to gain sloping ledge and delightful short corner to DBB (of Depth Charge, a few meters left of where this climb finishes). <br/></climb>
<climb id="15" stars="***" extra="7Þ" number="93." name="Cheeky Monkey " length="18m" grade="20" fa="B. Maddison & B. Bull June 2016">Funky climbing up pocketed arête 2m R of SR. 7B to lower off.</climb>
<climb id="114" stars="**" extra="10Þ" number="94." name="Teardrops" length="18m" grade="24" fa="Ben Maddison July 2021">5m R of Cheeky Monkey.<br/><br/>Climb the short corner (the right-hand of the two steep starting options, about 20). Pull left onto the crackline, and a couple of cruxy moves to lower off. The direct start on the left goes at 22 (and is followed by the Teardrops crux) but doesn't climb as nicely as the indirect version.</climb>
<climb id="111" stars="**" extra="8Þ" number="95." name="Outdoor Education" length="20m" grade="22" fa="Ben Maddison & Gerry Narkowicz November 2018">8m R of Cheeky Monkey. Great climbing to a fingery technical crux to reach the Mushroom Soup Shop belay/lower off. 8B</climb>
<climb id="112" stars="**" extra="12Þ" number="96." name="Mushroom Soup Shop" length="28m" grade="21" fa="Ben Maddison & Neale Smith, ( with support from Tom Crossland), August 2018.">Good 2 pitch sport route.<br/><br/>Start 1.5 m R of OE. <br/><br/>1. 20 Up steep cracks and flakes to belay/lower off.<br/>2. 21 Climb pleasant shallow groove, and exit up steeper ground with crux at top. <br/> Belay off bolts. Descent: walk L along ledge to rap anchors above Depth Charge. 25m Rap.</climb>
<text id="181" class="heading1">Aviary Slabs</text>
<text id="182" class="text">The slabs that run down from the Aviary to the sea.</text>
<climb id="185" stars="**" extra="20Þ" number="97." name="All Hands on Deck" length="120m" grade="14" fa="FA Bob Bull, Neale Smith, Ben Maddison January 2022."><br/><br/>A worthy companion route to the Bruny Slide, taking the line on the left hand side of the Aviary Slabs.<br/><br/>Access:Abseil descent, climb out. From the track that runs between the end of the handline and the Aviary (see access notes for the Aviary), find the fixed line which is tied, at the top end to a good 'ol tree,and at the bottom, to the anchors at the top of the route. Descend this line 25m down the scrubby slope to the anchors. From here make 4 X 25-30m abseils ( if using a 60m rope) to belay on ledge at foot of the climb, about 10m above the sea. <br/><br/>p.1. 25m (14)Follow the bolted line up a steep slab on beautiful rock to DBB.<br/>pp.2-4. 95m (12) Climb the bolted slab on good rock, utilising DBB at various places according to length of rope utilised. <br/><br/><br/></climb>
<climb id="183" stars="**" extra="20Þ" number="98." name="The Bruny Slide" length="130m" grade="14" fa="Bob Bull & Ben Maddison December 2021 ">A classic outing, climbing the right hand side of the slab that runs from the sea to the Aviary. An echo of Lundy Island’s famous Devil’s Slide.<br/><br/>Access: Abseail descent, climb out. Make your way to the foot of the Aviary (see access notes fro the Aviary). The first abseil anchors are on the slab at the right hand side of the Aviary, directly in line with and about 10m down the slab below Outdoor Education. Abseil straight down the slab, using several DBB abseil stations, which are set so you can get down with a single 60m rope. Using this method you will do 5 abseils. Of course if you have two 60m ropes, the number of abseils will be reduced. The climb starts from a DBB at a large ledge 15m above the water line, and is achieved in 2 and a half pitches. <br/><br/>1 50m.(14) Up the slab, with nice moves through a steepening, to DBB on ledge, in a superb position.<br/>2.58m. (11)Continue up the straightforward slab on nice rock.<br/>3.20m. (8) Pad up to the top.<br/><br/> <br/></climb>
<text id="37" class="heading3">The Right Wing. <br/></text>
<text id="38" class="text"><br/>North facing, and less steep than the rest of the Aviary. Some nice groove climbing on good rock.</text>
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<climb id="16" stars="*" extra="5Þ" number="99." name="Wizard" length="15m" grade="19" fa=" B. Maddison & B. Bull June 2016">Weakness up centre of black face where cliff turns corner and runs down in the seawards direction to Footnote. 6B to lower off.</climb>
<climb id="110" stars="*" extra="5Þ" number="100." name="Maybe Later" length="18m" grade="19" fa="Ben Maddison & Gerry Narkowicz October 2018">Nice climbing up the black streak between Wizard and Dyspraxia</climb>
<climb id="17" stars="*" extra="11Þ" number="101." name="Dyspraxia" length="25m" grade="20" fa="B.Maddison/I. Crossland October 2016">Start 3m R of Wizard.and 1.5m L of MM. Tricky past 2 bolts, then steady climbing up steep groove line. 11 B to DBB</climb>
<climb id="18" stars="**" extra="mixed" number="102." name="Midwinter Madness" length="25m" grade="20" fa=" B. Maddison & O. Delprado July 2016">Start 6 m R of W, beneath shallow corner with crack in R wall. Take med wires and small-med cams. Up corner system, then groove past 2 B to DBB/lower-off.</climb>
<climb id="28" stars="***" extra="11Þ" number="103." name="Solstice Grooves" length="28 m" grade="21" fa="B. Maddison & O. Delprado July 2016">Start 2m R of MM. Up starting cracks and bulges, into steep, technical groove past 13 bolts to DBB. <br/><br/></climb>
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<climb id="20" stars="***" extra="mixed" number="104." name="Peer Review" length="28 m" grade="21" fa="B. Maddison & B. Bull July 2016">Start 10-15 m R of SG, beneath corner and runnels. <br/>1. 15m. 21. Up cracks past 10 B to DBB. <br/>2. 13m. 19. Up steep beautiful orange box groove to DBB. Great gear – medium Rocks and cams to 2.5. <br/><br/></climb>
<climb id="21" stars="***" extra="10Þ" number="105." name="Footnote" length="25m" grade="24" fa="B. Maddison May 2016">Start: Beneath the shallow bolted groove just L of the arête that marks the start of the Southern Ocean Face; and 3M R of Peer Review. Great route. <br/><br/>Contrary face and groove climbing up an elegant open book groove past 10 bolts to DBB.<br/><br/>You can link across to Peer Review Pitch 2 from the top of this route.</climb>
<text id="31" class="heading2">Southern Ocean Face</text>
<text id="23" class="text">This area is steep and exposed, containing many strong natural lines on good rock. Excellent and demanding sport, trad and mixed routes. The inspiring position makes the routes here feel bigger than they actually are. <br/><br/>Access: Follow the bottom of Aviary cliffline across and down slabs. Southern Ocean Face begins at the point where the amphitheatre stops and turns right (facing in) i.e. At Footnote. A fixed handline keeps you safe as you traverse the ledge to access the routes in the centre and right side of the SO Face. <br/></text>
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<climb id="24" stars="***" extra="trad plus" number="106." name="Chapter 4" length="45m" grade="22" fa="Ben Maddison & Ingrid Crossland, March 2016">Powerful climbing up a great line. Take a full rack with a fair bit of finger size gear for the first 20m, a couple of smaller wires for the start of the groove, a sling or two and double 1-2.5 cams. <br/> Start: 1m R. of Footnote, beneath a finger crack and at a U bolt anchor<br/>1. Up the thin crack and groove on the right for 4 m, then step L into the finger crack. Great face and crack climbing in and around the crack. When the finger crack runs out step R into the hanging groove. Great moves, exposure and gear, passing a bolt. Follow line R around rooflet at top of groove and then take cracks direct to belay ledge on top. Descent: rap from rings down to Primavera rap point. Or rap down to Footnote. <br/></climb>
<climb id="25" stars="***" extra="Mixed" number="107." name="Primavera" length="28m" grade="23" fa="Ben Maddison & Ingrid Crossland January 2017">The line going up parallel to and R of Ch 4. Stellar!<br/>Start: 2m. 2m R of Ch 4, beside a big detached block, and at a belay bolt. <br/><br/>Up cracks with good gear to a step R at 15 m. Up increasingly steep ground past 12 bolts, to a final hard section to DBB. From here either lower/ rap the route, OR from belay step L and finish up final corner of Ch4, and descend as for that route. <br/></climb>
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<legend>
<climb>26</climb>
<climb>29</climb>
<climb>27</climb>
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<climb id="26" stars="***" extra="mixed" number="108." name="One Billion Heart Beats " length="25m" grade="21" fa="Ben Maddison & Ingrid Crossland October 2016">Hueco and flake in centre of face. Start 7 m R of Primavera along ledge, where the ledge kinks up, at U belay bolt and beneath hand crack. Take cams 1-2.5<br/>Up the excellent cracks for 18m and step R and up past bolts to steeper pocket and flake climbing. DBB. <br/></climb>
<climb id="29" stars="**" extra="11Þ" number="109." name="The Turning of the Tide" length="25m" grade="23" fa="Ben Maddison & Ingrid Crossland, February 2017">Very good climbing, but loses a star cos it steps L into One Billion Heart Beats for a couple of moves between bolts 5 & 7<br/><br/>Start: At belay bolt for OBHB. Route is the line of 11 bolts R of OBHB<br/><br/>A couple of hard moves get you up the shallow corner to the little roof. Follow line , stepping L after bolt 5, and back R at bolt 7. Great moves up the vertical rail above, to belay of OBHB.</climb>
<climb id="27" stars="***" extra="mixed" number="110." name="Jubila" length="" grade="22" fa="Ben Maddison & Ingrid Crossland January 2017">Excellent mixed route<br/>Start: Double rings at end of ledge<br/>Hard up past 4 bolts to trad section. Up steep flakes and pockets (take 2 green, 3 red, 2 blue cams) to steepening cruxy finish with 4 bolts. DBB<br/></climb>
<text id="42" class="heading3">The Grooves</text>
<text id="43" class="text">Drop down off the ledge where the handline ends, and you are at the foot of three amazing grooves of immaculate rock capped by very overhanging exits. This area extends right to the pinnacle beneath the next area to the right, Recessed Wall.</text>
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<legend>
<climb/>
<climb>44</climb>
<climb>167</climb>
<climb>168</climb>
<climb>196</climb>
<climb>197</climb>
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<climb id="44" stars="" extra="" number="111." name="Too Groovy" length="50m" grade="24+" fa="">The left hand of the grooves. A closed project for the moment. <br/><br/>1. 30m Up the pure groove, hand crack and then desperate stemming, to a hard exit L around the room. More hard moves to DBB.<br/><br/>2. 20m The Liver pitch. Up the hard red groove line to DBB and lower off/rap point.</climb>
<climb id="167" stars="***" extra="15Þ" number="112." name="Lodestone" length="30m" grade="25" fa="Ben Maddison March 2022">A great climb, sustained and technical.The middle of the three grooves. Take 15 draws, plus 2 blue and 2 gold cams for the initial corner.<br/><br/>1. 30m Up the corner to the difficult stemming groove, turn roof on the R (crux), then continue steeply up the technical and pumpy ground to the belay.</climb>
<climb id="168" stars="***" extra="" number="113." name="Ghost of the Navigator" length="?" grade="?" fa="">Gerry working on this one</climb>
<climb id="196" stars="**" extra="9Þ" number="114." name="Bad Latitude" length="15m" grade="21" fa="Ben Maddison & David Stephenson March 2022">A good little climb. Start 3m R of Ghost<br/><br/>Up the tricky start, through the overlap and up the flake and face to a tricksy step R to anchors.</climb>
<climb id="197" number="115." stars="" extra="6/7Þ" name="" length="15m" grade="" fa="">The weird groove starting 3m R of Bad Latitude and going to its anchors.<br/><br/>Closed Proj thanx</climb>
<climb id="115" stars="" extra="" number="116." name="Apex Predator" length="30m" grade="" fa="">The amazing bolted groove line at R end of cliffline. Closed project</climb>
<climb id="179" stars="" extra="" number="117." name="" length="" grade="" fa="">The bolted groove 3 m R of Apex. Closed Proj atm</climb>
<climb id="178" stars="**" extra="15Þ" number="118." name="Moon River" length="25m" grade="22" fa="Ben Maddison & Daniel Stavert May 2021">The route is long and sustained. Keep moving along cliffline past Apex Predator and the last route. Currently the last route on the cliff <br/><br/>1. Climb the interesting steep grey arete to stance. Move past bulge and onto steep face( crux) and sustained to anchors.</climb>
</guide> |
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