Lowdina

25 min steep uphill
Morning & midday sun
Dolerite
Acknowledgement
Originally published in Craglets by Evan Peacock. Guide update and crag revival undertaken by Christoph Speer, Hamish Jackson and Martin Brown, with help from friends and the CCT.
Introduction
IMPORTANT:
- You need to be back at your car before dark (landowner request)
- Clean and disinfect your footwear before climbing here (farm biosecurity).

Only a short drive from Hobart, Lowdina is an excellent winter trad crag in the South. The rock quality is very good, and the crag provides a wide-selection of interesting routes, each with their own unique flavour. Though the cliff only makes minor first impressions, its hidden gems will become gleamingly obvious as you explore it. Summer climbing here is unpleasant, as it's usually too hot and the grass seeds through these months are very annoying. Routes are listed in the guide from climbers left to right.
History
In the beginning..
Michael McHugh first noticed the cliff from the Trans Tasman passenger train window traveling between Devonport and Hobart. Not long after, McHugh with Peter Jackson visited the cliff and in 1968 with Bob McMahon, John Moore and Mendelt Tillema put up the first routes. Jackson also published the first guide in the early 1970s with about 30 routes containing his signature sketches. The original guide can be viewed at Libraries Tasmania - Archives History Room in Hobart.

Rock-stars, run-outs and burn-outs..
Between the late eighties and early nineties, new route activity at Lowdina was intense. Most of the harder routes done during this period were by Evan Peacock, Garn Cooper and Al Adams. Martin Stone published a new guide in the mid-eighties but it soon became outdated. Evan Peacock and Colin Reed published a third guide in 1992 that formed the basis of the crag info later published in Craglets. In the mid-nineties interest in Lowdina waned for various reasons including the need to complete an indemnity form prior to visitation. During the 00s and 10s sporadic visitation meant a significant number of routes retreated under a liberal coating of Lowdina’s infamous lichen.

The future..
Lowdina’s relative obscurity was set to change. During winter 2021, the crag sparked the interest of Christoph Speer, Hamish Jackson and Martin Brown, signifying the start of a modern revival. Recognising the value of the cliff for winter trad-climbing, work began on serious route cleaning, installation of lower-offs and replacement of the old carrot bolts, giving the crag a much needed face-lift. The guide has also been re-written, with the addition of topos to assist in route navigation, as well as revised route descriptions and some upgrades. During this period there has been significant new route activity spearheaded by Speer, Jackson, Brown and Broome.
Access
Special provisions are required to visit this cliff, and ongoing access is reliant on the climbing community doing the right thing. The cliff lies on private land, and the owners, N and R Bevan are very friendly people that are happy for people to climb here, as long as the following process in adhered to:

1. Clean, wash and disinfect your shoes thoroughly prior to coming (essential for farm biosecurity).
2. Contact the Bevans at least the day prior to your trip (text preferred - 0418 604 286 or 6260 4286). Include in the text who is coming, in what car(s) and a time you will arrive.
3. Sign onto the indemnity-form / register at the stile before you enter the property. You need to do this each time you visit.
4. Leave a nice box of chocolates if you visit frequently - and make sure you're off the cliff and back at your car before dark.
5. keep an eye out for signs of peregrine falcons, especially in nesting season (Aug to Jan). In 2019-2023 the birds nested elsewhere, but this could change.
See here for detailed info: http://www.thesarvo.com/confluence/display/cctpublic/Raptor+Nesting

Access to the cliff is located from the end of Lowdina Road in Campania (about 4.2km North of the town centre). A convenient parking area is located at the end of the road just after the old house at the railway-line.

Walk to the LHS of the old house above the railway-line to locate a wooden stile. Sign-in, then cross the fence here and start walking towards the cliff, keeping just left of the fence-line. Pass an old gate (close behind you) and head-up over a short hill, cross the field past some boulders and look for some more pink tape on a fence at the base of the hill. Keep following the rough track up the steep hill to arrive at the Bismark Buttress. Make your way along the base of the cliff-line to move between buttresses.
Camping
There is basic camping at Colebrook Park near the Craigbourne dam (10 mins NW of Lowdina), and Campania Flour Mill Campground 10 mins SE of Lowdina.

Please DO NOT camp on the Lowdina property itself.

Crag Steward

Rock climbers please contact the Cliff Steward (lowdina@climbersclubtas.org.au) if you have any queries or concerns regarding social or environmental impacts of rock climbing at this crag. Do not email regarding general travel, seasonal advice, or lost property - this is not the Steward’s role. If you have important safety information to communicate (e.g. risks due to recent and large rock falls) please also consider updates on thesarvo forum, facebook group and/or online guidebooks as appropriate. Please copy in cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you feel you have a high level concern which may imminently impact the crag or climbing community.

Non-climbers, other users, land managers: please also contact cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you have important climbing related queries at this location.

Gear and Grades

A single rack of wires and a double rack of cams from BD #0.3 to #3 will suffice for most climbs, with a #4 and #5 being useful at times. Include RPs and micro-cams in your rack (doubles are ideal). A 60m single-rope is the go here, although double ropes (or a single folded over) may keep you safer on a couple of extreme routes (e.g. Little Squeaky Feet).

Try any of the following recommended routes if time is short and you want the best - general consensus has been that grades here may feel a little stiff if you're used to sandier places.
- A ~ symbol indicates the need for RPs / micro-cams.
- A + symbol means very approachable and well protected.

<12 - Papillon+, Tormentil+, Greenknowe
13 - The Ants Pants+, Casuarina Crack+, Sweetie
14 - Things to Do While Waiting for the Apocalypse, Strawberries+
15 - Canary, Bismark+
16 - Chocolate+, Ulysses, Hood
17 - Hooter~, Subvert the Dominant Paradigm, Virag, Snoober~, Ferio+, Ungar+, Chook Fever+, Psoriasis
18 - The Danger Hog Shuffle, Wolftone+, Anzac Day, Felix+, Daytime Delinquents, Mother Earth+, Mick Goes to Moonah~, Time Warp~, Electric Exercise Bike~, Boys in Bikinis
19 - Yoda~, Something Scurrilous+, Don't Jolt That Bolt~
20 - Liars and Losers~, Illegal Move, Gecko~, Authoritarian Ultranationalism+
21 - Brittle Little Mothers~, Balbatross, Rogering the Rock+, Bulging Biceps~, Maggot on a Brick+, Caged+, Ukiyo-e+, Scaredy Cat~
22 - Drury Line, Acerb, Plasticine Thylacine, Punks and Lepers~, Picnic in the Front Room~, Ashlars Edge+
23 - Albatross, Lumbar Cruncher+, Little Squeaky Feet~
24 - Lumber Cruncher Direct+, Bonsai+, Radical Centrist+
25 - Onklunk
26 - Wailing Wall+

Try these is you want to test yourself on the signature RP/micro-cam protected, technical face climbing at Lowdina:
1. Hooter (17)
2. Mick Goes to Moonah (18)
3. Yoda (19)
4. Liars and Losers (20)
5. Brittle Little Mothers (21)
6. Punks and Lepers (22)
7. Little Squeaky Feet (23)

Bolts

Most of the old carrot bolts have now been removed and replaced with stainless steel fixed hangars or glue-ins. There are still a couple floating about yet to be replaced (noted in the descriptions). Any remaining carrots and mild steel FH's should be treated with much caution, they are likely 30+ years old now. Some old pitons are also still in-situ (mostly in good condition) - back these up where possible. As always, you should inspect all fixed gear before use - you are in charge of your safety.

Quality

Most of the popular routes have now been repeated and cleaned since the cliffs revival in 2021. Many of the routes here likely hadn't had a repeat ascent for close to 30 years - and as such, some routes have gained or lost stars depending on various factors. As such, the star ratings you see in this guide will be pretty accurate to the current quality of the route.

*** - Classic.
** - Highly recommended.
* - A good route that's worth doing.

Ethics

Much time, effort and money has gone into rejuvenating this crag for winter trad-climbing options close to Hobart. Please respect the land-owners wishes regarding access, remember that you are on private land and act accordingly. Please top-rope anchors through your own gear to avoid premature wear.

The ethic at this crag is traditional, and it is expected that natural protection should be used where-ever reasonable placements exist (including #1RP placements!). Some routes here will test your ability to place small gear and climb with confidence above it. Whilst mixed routes are common, the crag is not suited to fully bolted routes. To improve the climbing experience, some climbs have had their old bolts re-positioned, and in certain circumstances bolts have been added with permission of the FA following wider consultation.

Environment

Peregrine Falcon's almost certainly nest around the cliff and have done so for many years, although the location of their current nest site in 2020-2022 era is unclear, with occasional sightings of birds only (not distress signals). In 2022 sightings have been reported in the far northern reaches of the crag. Previous nesting sites reportedly include one behind Bismark Buttress and one atop Virag Buttress. Please be on the look out and report sightings to the CCT peregrine stewards. If you start hearing a lot of squawking and/or start getting swooped, please climb elsewhere on the cliff to avoid disturbing the birds during their nesting season (usually between July - December).

Please stick to the marked track as much as possible - even when it's wet and muddy. Track braiding can become a real problem and work is undertaken regularly to minimise our impact. Please help to keep existing tracks free of sticks and debris and please avoid creating new ones.
GPS
CodeDescriptionUTM ZoneUTM EastingUTM NorthingHeightLatLong
Westfield
55G
535074
5279933
-42.63225
147.42777
Lowdina Road Parking
55G
534772
5280021
-42.63147
147.42409
Spook Fright
55G
533967
5280068
-42.63108
147.41427
Topless Buttress
55G
533932
5280236
-42.62957
147.41383
Bismark Buttress
55G
534147
5279712
-42.63428
147.41648
Greenknowe / Papillon Buttress
55G
534124
5279840
-42.63313
147.41619
Vulpecula Buttress
55G
534190
5279324
-42.63777
147.41703
Tormentil Buttress
55G
534158
5279451
-42.63663
147.41663
Scarnhorst Buttress
55G
534225
5279254
-42.63840
147.41746
Stung Buttress
55G
534096
5279631
-42.63501
147.41586
Ferio Buttress
55G
534130
5279535
-42.63587
147.41629
Chocolate / Albatross Area
55G
534102
5279765
-42.63380
147.41593
Rudge Area
55G
534091
5279853
-42.63301
147.41579
Start of Pink/Green Taped Track
55G
534439
5279759
-42.63384
147.42004
Mick Goes to Moonah Buttress
55G
534152
5279388
-42.63720
147.41656
Zundapp Alcove
55G
534120
5279600
-42.63529
147.41616
Delinquents Area
55G
534132
5279495
-42.63623
147.41631
Anzac Day Buttress
55G
534170
5279373
-42.63733
147.41678
Twilight Zone
55G
534090
5279673
-42.63463
147.41579
Virag Buttress
55G
534125
5279729
-42.63413
147.41621
Wailing Wall
55G
534047
5279997
-42.63172
147.41525
Cryptic Clue Buttress
55G
534117
5279572
-42.63554
147.41612
Orange-taped track
Pink-taped track
Path through the paddocks
Old house
55G
534772
5279924
-42.63234
147.42409
Spazzattack Buttress
55G
534129
5279693
-42.63445
147.41626
Track to Perchance to Dream / Stung
Track to Ferio
Track to Casuarina Crack / Mick Goes to Moonah
Casuarina Crack
55G
534145
5279423
-42.63688
147.41648
Track
Show in Google Earth

Scharnhorst Buttress

Rarely visited, Scharnhorst Buttress is at the far left hand end of the crag immediately before the the hillside turns to the south and into a gully. Beyond the gully the cliff-line peters out. Approaching from the right, the buttress is about 80m left of a narrow scree slope.
1.Scharnhorst15m12 
Scharnhorst is the furthest left hand climb on the crag. The route climbs a groove, that continues up a contoured crack through a small roof. It roughly finishes up the nose of the buttress. Avoid the loose slabs on the left near the top.
Karl Prinz, Kevin Kiernan, Mary McWhirther, Feb 1975.
2.Blackheads and Beauty Spots15m16 
Start in the alcove 6m right of Scharnhorst, off the top of the pillar. Step across and up to the ledge below the flake. Go up the right hand crack, then move left and up past the right hand edge of the flake, finishing up the crack. RPs and microcams useful.
Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Tim Olding, Aug 1988.
3.Drugs on Sunday12m16 
Start 8m right of Scharnhorst on the ledge below the brushed slab. Step up for the slope above, continue up to the next sloping ledge, then up the flake to the top. RPs and microcams useful.
Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Aug 1988.
4.Better Get A Bucket18m24 
Extremely bold face climbing with a technical finish. Start immediately left of The Spastic Acrobat on the left hand side of the arête. Climb to the horizontal at 3m (and place gear!) then launch for the bolt (hoping your belayer jumps downhill if you fall off clipping). Finish through the small roof on the left. RPs and microcams useful.
Evan Peacock, Steve Ford, Nov 1991.
5.The Spastic Acrobat15m20 
About 20m right of Scharnhorst; or 50m left and 30m downhill from Punks and Lepers. Look for a smooth, grey face split by a horizontal break near the top. Start just right of the obvious crack, and go straight up the face on RPs to a small ledge. Continue up on small holds and layaways (more RPs) to the horizontal, then crank through to the finger crack (lichenous) and the top.
Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Aug 1988.
6.Seagull15m10 
An isolated pinnacle lies between Vulpecula and Scharnhorst buttresses. Climb the crack that forms a sweeping s-curve up the right hand side of the buttress.
Mary McWhirther, Kevin Kiernan, Karl Prinz, Feb 1975.

Vulpecula / Punks and Lepers Buttress

Some heady test-pieces and a nice hand crack. The following buttresses are located about 20m left of the narrow scree slope. There is a lower-off on the Punks and Lepers buttress.
★ 7.Finger Lichen Super Crew18m18 
On the South side of the Vulpecula Buttress is a nice looking crack-line starting from a large flake and ending in a headwall. Climb the crack, through the headwall (crux) and up to the top. Scramble off the back.
Jeroen Jansen, Lawrence Wonhas, August 2022
8.Towards the A Horizen18m13 
Takes the off-width crack just to the right of FLSC.
Lawrence Wonhas, Jeroen Jansen, August 2022
9.Lord Cornflake18m16 
Starts below the big roof, taking the line to the right of this, up the wall on the right (careful of loose flakes) and then leftwards to the top (belay as for FLSC).
Jeroen Jansen, Lawrence Wonhas, August 2022
10.Vulpecula30m11 
From the base of the buttress, climb the nose past loose flakes to a broad ledge. Scramble on up the blocky ledges, then finish up the obvious slab on the left hand side.
Kevin Kiernan, Karl Prinz, Mary McWhirther,Feb 1975.
11.Conjunctivitis24m16 
A short masochistic variant to Psoriasis. Take the off-width crack about 3 m left of the start of Psoriasis, trending right into the hand crack when this ends. Move right after this finishes and continue up Psoriasis to the DBB. Take a big cam.
Henry Garratt, Nov 2021
★ 12.Psoriasis22m17 
The crack-line left of Punks and Lepers provides the easiest worthwhile route to the top of the buttress. Climb the short groove to a small ledge, then jam steeply through the bottomless crack to a stance below some keyed-in blocks. Avoid these by trending right onto the exposed face and follow the crack system above to lower-off as for P&L.
Christoph Speer, Mark Passier, Henry Garratt, Nov 2021
★★ 13.Punks and Lepers22m22 
Not for the inexperienced. In fact this is not the route for people of a nervous disposition, the accident-prone, the unlucky, the uninsured, those who are easily disheartened or those with loved ones. It is however, one of the more outstanding and challenging examples of the classic Lowdina face climbing style. Climb to the break, then up the face past the cracks to the top. RP placements appear 3.5m above the horizontal break, one set of RPs #2-5 are essential, with doubles of size 2 and 3 serving well. With nesting of RPs at the crux, and an attentive belayer while the nest of RPs goes in, the climb can be on-sighted fairly 'safely' (despite appearances).
Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Nov 1988.
★ 14.Scaredy Cat22m21 
The crack-line right of Punks and Lepers is a fine companion-route that will also have you questioning your life choices. Climb easily up the lower crack to the top of the pedestal; then climb up the thin continuation crack. Finish up the short corner above to the lower-off on P & L. Small cams and RPs provide adequate protection at the crux - brass offsets are handy but not essential.
Martin Brown, Hamish Jackson, Aug 2021
15.Nerve Block10m14 
Take the hand crack past the block (it's in there) and follow it past a tricky move to a bollard belay. Walk-off down rocky gully behind the route.
Fraser L-R, Sammi Dos, Nov 2021
16.Pocket Rocket12m15 
Start-up the hand-crack to the block, traverse right and then follow the thin crack and face with all the confidence of RPs and microcams, to a bollard belay out left at the top.
Sammi Dos, Fraser L-R , Nov 2021
17.Dysmorphia9m16 
To the right of and uphill from Nerve Block. Up slab from tiny gully then moving left to gain crack. Better than it looks...
Presumed to be Dave James and Tim Whelan. June 2021

Anzac Day Buttress

Worth visiting for Anzac Day alone. The Anzac Day Buttresses are the two distinct buttresses located just before you hit the rock-scree slope if approaching from the right. There is a lower-off at the top of Anzac Day.
18.Torque Arm15m16 
This route climbs the wall which forms the left hand side of the Ape chimney. Gain the corner-groove just off the ground and climb up it, passing right of the small roof. Cross left into the groove and climb this until able to move right into the crack and to the top.
Dave Humphries, John Buttery, Jul 1984.
19.Ape20m10 
Located 7m left of Anzac Day on a small buttress topped by a prominent 4m flake. Climb the narrow flaring chimney immediately to its left.
Chris Viney, Brendan Moore, Apr 1972.
20.Dia De Los Muertos20m16 
Climb the gaping, cheese-grater off-width left of Tongerlongeter Day. Big gear is useful but not necessary.
Jeroen Jansen, Vanessa Tonet, Aug 2022
21.Tongerlongeter Day20m19 
A serious undertaking. Named after an Indigenous war hero in the Frontier Wars. As for Anzac day to the second roof, then go left through this to navigate loose blocks above, finishing up the wall to lower-off.
Jeroen Jansen, Jai Friend, August 2022
★★ 22.Anzac Day20m18 
Has seen off more campaigns than Gallipoli. There are two starts:
1.Layback the left arete (bold - original start).
2.Follow the crack on the right, then traverse left under the first roof (variant - good protection).
Continue up the crack to pass the second roof on the right, then climb the thought-provoking wall above to a lower-off.
Dave Humphries, John Buttery, Jul 1984 (original). Christoph Speer, Mark Passier, Rachel Chong, July 2022 (variant start).
23.Lejand12m15 
We are all striving to be one, aren't we? Start below the roof 2m right of Anzac Day and climb the arête and crack above to a large ledge. Move left to regain the arête, then up the right hand side of the wall to the top and DBB. Careful of loose rock.
Jeremy Rackham, Anna Hasan, Apr 1992.

Mick Goes to Moonah, Boys in Bikinis & Casuarina Crack Area

A range of nice routes. The next set of climbs are located in a small amphitheatre above the Anzac Day Buttress to climbers right. Head up the short gully from the track, just before you get to the Anzac Day Buttresses. There are lower-offs on each buttress for easy descent.
★★ 24.Mick Goes to Moonah15m18 
An engaging lead up the groove and seams on the nose of the buttress. RPs, small wires and micro-cams provide plenty of good protection despite the initial appearances. Lower-off.
Dave Humphries, John Buttery, Jul 1984.
★★ 25.Chook Fever15m17 
Follows the well-protected clean crack-line. Leaders thrashing about through the various bulges provides an amusing spectacle for onlookers. Jam thoughtfully to surmount the initial bulge, then continue up the line to battle the fist crack to a ledge. Traverse left and up around the arete to the lower-off.
Dave Humphries, John Buttery, Jul 1984.
26.Miss Right Body20m16 
Worth a sneaky look. Starts 3m right of Chook Fever at the slab. Up the face into the crack-line, finishing up the wide crack. Trad belay and walk-off.
Al Adams, Garn Cooper, Nic Deka, May 1986.
★ 27.Boys in Bikinis15m18Mixed 
Start in the corner left of the roof and bridge your way up until you can layback the flakes and clip the bolt. Move right with difficulty to enter the crack-line on the face of the buttress (crux), then continue up the nose of the buttress with a character-building finish. Lower-off.
Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Jun 1988. Fixed pin replaced with bolt in 2022 with FA's permission.
28.What Bunny Likes Best15m22Mixed 
The face between Boys in Bikinis and Jot Jot Splat. Climb up past an ancient FH and several wires (crack needs a brush) to the lower-off. Somewhat contrived trying to stay out of Jot Jot Splat.
Evan Peacock, Steve Ford, May 1992.
29.Jot Jot Splat15m15 
Not bad. The corner crack which widens from hands through to off-width at the top. Jam and bridge your way to the top. Lower-off.
Evan Peacock, May 1990.
★ 30.Casuarina Crack20m13 
Located between Jot Jot Splat and the top of the Tormentil Buttress on the same contour, is an obvious hand crack to the right of a large She-oak tree. Follow the well-protected crack and rap-off trees at top (take a sling). Alternatively, you can walk down the 'pleasure gully' to the left.
Christoph Speer, Martin Brown, July 2021
★ 31.Demon Child20m19 
Climb the slab directly into the dihedral. Turn the roof and continue up the arete. Trend leftwards following detached blocks to a RP seam. Ascend this up to the tree.
T. Fulton, D. Morley. Nov 2023
32.Cruxy Demons20m17 
Something to do while waiting for your turn on Casuarina Crack. Climb the gully to the right of the face. Step left and up into the steep corner (RP's helpful here). Up to the rooflet and then squirm to the left using your belly where you can (make sure you extend your pro before traversing!). Up Casuarina Crack to finish.
T. Fulton, P. Higgins, D. Morley, B. Fulton. Aug 2022

Finn Buttress

Finn is located on a separate buttress of its own about 25m left of Tormentil Buttress. The buttress has a series of blocky towers as prominent features.
33.Finn25m8 
From the block at the base of buttress, follow the weakness straight up the nose which steepens at the top. About as loose as it looks!
Robert McMahon, Peter Jackson, Chris Viney, 1969.

Tormentil Buttress

A couple of good routes, Tormentil is well worth doing if you're climbing at easier grades. Tormentil Buttress is located in a small amphitheatre downhill and just past the Delinquents area. There are lower-offs at the top of Tormentil and Tim's Excuses. From above Tormentil you can take a short track to climbers left to get to Casuarina Crack and the base of Mick goes to Moonah Buttress.
34.Bumbly25m10 
Go left around the base of the buttress and uphill to where an obvious ledge leads back right towards the nose. Follow the ledge then climb the crack to the ledge above Cromlech. Finish up the broken crack above, or via the nose on the left. Take double ropes or fold your single in half.
Peter Jackson, Lyle Closs, May 1971.
★ 35.Tim's Excuses25m19 
Takes the thin line just left of the chimney (Cromlech). Surmount the lego at the base and follow the thin, well-protected crack to the top and lower-off. The crux moves are a little contrived and start above a ledge (though they can be appropriately protected).
Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, Sep 1991.
36.Cromlech18m13 
The chimney a few metres to the left of Tormentil. Climb the chimney which is loose at first and awkward in spots (sounds delightful).
Robert McMahon, Peter Jackson, Chris Viney, 1969.
★ 37.Tormentil15m10 
Quite good - one of the original routes here. Climb the smooth curving right-facing corner crack, located just to the right of the base of the buttress. Despite looks you don't need off-width gear.
Peter Jackson, Robert McMahon, Chris Viney, 1969.
38.Humber15m15 
Climb the face 1m right of Tormentil. The key runner placement requires some thought but is bomber.
Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, Sep 1991.
39.Garage Sale12m17 
Start about 15m right of Humber on a slab, just past a roof-capped mini-buttress. Climb the left hand of the two lines, finishing up the hand crack.
Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, Sep 1991.
40.Little Black Balls12m11 
Seldom climbed. Takes the line just right of Garage Sale up the face.
Colin Reed, Evan Peacock, Sep 1991.

Delinquents Area

A nice area with a range of absorbing routes. Find this area by spotting two very prominent, large buttresses located just uphill as you come past the Oisin buttress from the right. Lower-offs are on each buttress for descent.
★ 41.Maggot On A Brick13m21Mixed 
Good moves the whole way. The short slab about 30m left and up from Daytime Delinquents, behind the distinctive Naughty Bottom Burp Buttress. Starting from the left arete, climb the slab trending right and up past two bolts, finishing up the layaways on the right past some good wires and finger sized cams. Stick-clip the first bolt.
Garn Cooper, Richard Bottomley, Lucas Bottomley, Anna Hasan, May 1991. Re-bolted 2023
42.The Naughty Bottom Burp14m20 
The small separate buttress about 15m left of the Delinquents Buttress has a clean face line and chockstone filled chimney on the R at a sag bush. Climb up to the ledge on the LH side and a #2RP, then continue back R to the horizontal break. Climb up the sloping ledge and a knifeblade runner, then up to the top, trying not to rain loose blocks onto your belayer.
Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, Roger Parkyn, Jun 1990.
★★ 43.Rogering the Rock18m20Mixed 
The result of some rather vigorous cleaning techniques... Start left of Daytime Delinquents at the base of a slab. Climb the slab to a stance at the orange wall. Perplexing and interesting moves past the bolt, then crank left through the roof to a large ledge before finishing up the face right of the arete to the lower-off.
Roger Parkyn, Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Jun 1990. Re-bolted 2023
★ 44.Daytime Delinquents16m17 
Absorbing climbing through the roof. Follow the corner system to the roof being mindful of some hollow sounding rock, then break-out left to a stance at the arete. Up past the roof trending right, and into a straightforward crack to a lower-off.
Al Adams, Garn Cooper, Pete Steane, Dec 1984.
★★ 45.Little Squeaky Feet18m23 
This is one of the more serious leads at Lowdina and is rarely repeated. Follow the thin seam up the overhanging wall, past the infamous #1 Camalot placement and a couple more 'interesting' pieces to a lower-off. RPs are essential and small offsets cams are useful. A good line that is marred by a step left into the gully/crack that is all too tempting during the desperate crux section at half height.
Evan Peacock, Steve Ford, Al Adams, Colin Reed, Dec 1991.
★★ 46.Something Scurrilous25m19Mixed 
A well-protected route that has a little bit of everything. Follow the crack system up the face to a delicate stance below a bolt. Pass this into the hand-crack above (crux), then hand traverse out right around the jammed block to an awkward mantle to gain the thin crack system above on the left. Follow this to the top and lower-off.
Al Adams, Garn Cooper, Jun 1990. Re-bolted 2022
47.Mega Smegma25m16 
This route isn't the only thing requiring cleaning. Start at the weakness 3m right of Something Scurrilous. Climb the line to the bulge and pull through it on layaways. Continue up the tight handcrack to where it veers right. Continue up using a layaway edge and move L out into the chimney. Step around the arete and clip the DBB to lower-off.
Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Roger Parkyn, Jun 1990.
48.Genetic Junk Yard25m16 
Start on the downhill prow of the Catoblepas buttress, on a brushed slab. Climb easily up the slab to the roof, through this (RP runner) and continue easily.
Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Steve Ford, Colin Reed, Dec 1991.
49.Catoblepas20m14 
About 10m L of Oisin is another large buttress. The line starts in a widish crack on the RH side of the buttress, then trends L onto the eastward facing side. Continue straight up with the crux at the top.
Garn Cooper, Al Adams, Simon Stubbs, Oct 1988.

Oisin and Alekhines Defence Buttress

The large buttress with an obvious wide crack (Oisin) running through the nose. The buttress can be accessed easily from where the orange-taped track splits off to the Ferio Buttress.
50.Oisin20m11 
The flakes on the right should be treated with care, as should the possum! Climbs the wide crack (#5 handy) on the big buttress, starting from the elevated rock platform which you gain from the Ferio area. Scramble off the back and rap-down using Alekhines Defence anchors.
Robert McMahon, Peter Jackson, Chris Viney, 1969.
51.Mulliners Code20m16 
A major disappointment once you have done the flake. Climb the crack up the LHS of a flake 3m R of Oisin (of dubious attachment). Either continue up the dirty gully above, or move L and climb the RH edge of the delicately stacked flakes just R of Oison.
Peter Jackson, Bob deCesare, Jan 1981.
52.Maelstrom20m18 
The slightly overhanging problem just R of Mulliner's Code. Climb up into the small sentry box until the line joins the aforementioned then continue up that line.
Evan Peacock, Aug 1988.
53.Ploughman's Launch20m18 
The line just L of the Alekhine's Defence buttress. Climb the arête carefully on large holds to the horizontal break at 4m where runners appear. Continue up Mulliner's Code.
Evan Peacock, Sep 1989.
★ 54.Gecko12m20 
The direct start and finish to Alekhines Defence. The unprotected start requires strong fingers and a good head - most will want the first good wire pre-clipped. Excellent small wires and cams start from about 5m up.
Adrian Herington, Doug Bruce, 1985.
★ 55.Alekhines Defence12m19 
Start up the slab on the right hand side and climb through the overlap (Shallow RPs - poorly protected). Continue up the face trending diagonally left, finishing up the groove on the left. RPs, small wires and finger sized cams are the go.
Garn Cooper, Al Adams, Oct 1984.

Ferio Buttress

For this area, take the uphill track as you pass Directissimo Man instead of following the orange-taped track down the hill. Lower-offs have been installed for convenient descent from the routes. Some of the routes tend to have Casuarina leaves fall into them if they haven't been climbed in recently - please give them a quick clean if you're on-route!
56.Unknown route20m?4Þ 
The undescribed, unnamed and unknown route up the overhanging wall to the left of Electric Exercise Bike.
Unkown project / FA (Not described in original EP guide)
★ 57.Electric Exercise Bike18m18 
Classy. Climb the groove/layaway to the left of the narrow chimney until you can trend left onto the slab. A couple of peculiar RPs protect the next moves until reaching a stance below the thin crack (good RPs and micro-cams available here). Climb this, with a hard move to obtain the jug. Saunter on up the easy crack above to the top and lower-off.
Al Adams, Garn Cooper, Oct 1984.
★★ 58.Liars and Losers20m20Mixed 
Continually entertaining climbing up the face and left arête. Head up the arete and through a bulge past two bolts to a stance. Arrange some snazzy RP placements in the horizontal break then move up to the salvation of another bolt. Continue up the face/arête past some cam placements around the left of the arete to the lower-off. Take RPs and a single rack of cams from BD #0.2 - #0.5 (a BD#0 cam also provides some additional confidence).
Al Adams, Garn Cooper, Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, May 1990. Re-bolted (1st bolt added with FA permission) in 2022.
★ 59.Bicycles Don't Fly20m16 
Want a bet? A variant to the Ants Pants and the way to do the route. As for the Ants Pants, but trend left through a bulge (good wire) and follow the face before going back into the crack. Despite appearances, protection is very good.
Al Adams, Garn Cooper, Pete Steane, Aug 1985.
60.The Ants Pants20m12 
Recently cleaned and with the possum evicted, this is quite a pleasant lead for the grade. Follow the crack up the face of the buttress, stepping left at the top to clip the chains.
Bob Bull, John Moore, Apr 1971.
★ 61.Don't Jolt That Bolt20m18Mixed 
Carefully climb the RHS arete to the first bolt and up past the small overlap to a stance at the second bolt. Continue straight-up the face with some choice moves (crux) to a small wire behind the flake/jug. Continue up the face on RPs in the seam to the right, then step left at the roof to finish as for the Ants Pants. Add a grade if you're short.
Al Adams, Garn Cooper, Sep 1985. Re-bolted (1st bolt added with FA permission) in 2022.
★★ 62.Ferio14m17 
The classic of the buttress that will make you feel like a hero. Starting at the base of the corner, layback and jam up the corner to the DBB lower-off.
Peter Jackson, Michael McHugh, Di Batten, Jan 1971.
63.Tall Dudes14m21 
Originally started through the groove until a key hold was pulled-off. Start up Ferio to the thin ledge on the right wall at 4m. Purchase some life insurance, then boldly head-out right and climb the arete. The first couple RP placements from the ledge are placed blind in the seam to the right - abseil inspection is recommended. RPs from #1 to #5 essential.
Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Jun 1988.
★★ 64.Picnic in the Front Room14m22 
An unassuming route, but every move is gold. Follows the fused seam around the arete from Ferio. Layback the seam until it ends, then step left into Tall Dudes and finish up this - step left to lower-off as for Ferio. RPs from #1 to #5 and very small micro-cams are essential. Abseil inspection and double ropes (single folded in half) is recommended.
Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, Steve Ford, Steve Carter, Jan 1990.

Directissimo Man, Cryptic Clue and Mr Queasy Area

The next routes are located between the Ferio Buttress and the Zundapp Alcove in an amphitheatre of rock. The track runs straight past the base of Directissimo Man.
65.Directissimo Man8m12 
Climbs the nose of the buttress which you come across just before the Ferio Buttress. From the base of the flat rock platform, climb the obvious crack and face holds to the top. Walk-off.
Al Adams, Jul 1984.
66.Directissimo Girls8m9 
Reading the guide to find the route optional. Climb the loose and mossy chimney to the right of the buttress. Delightful.
Bonnie MacAdam, Vanessa Tonet, May 2022
67.FadelV1 
The boulder problem immediately L of Cryptic Clue (past the chimney).
Colleen McCullough, Noel Ferrier, Jun 1990.
68.Cryptic Clue10m22Mixed 
Another utterly contrived test piece. Uphill in the gully L of Mr Queasy is a blank looking wall broken by a horizontal at about 7m. Climb the face on the LH side of the wall using a bolt and a pin for protection (still there in Oct 2021) - but the LH arête is out of bounds! There are two loose blocks at the top, though they are keyed in.
Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Oct 1988.
69.Anagram10m21 
The face to the right of Cryptic Clue. Start on the RH edge, on face moves. Mantle up onto some slopes, stand, place RPs, then follow the incipient crack to the horizontal break. Finish straight up on good face holds.
Evan Peacock, Al Adams, Oct 1988.
70.Konked Out12m16 
At the beginning of the notch is a prominent slab on the uphill side. Climb the slab to the ledge, then up the groove and through the bulge on the R.
Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Jul 1988.
71.Ode to a Robotic Arm15m19M1Mixed 
Across the small gully right of Anagram is a brushed face with a thin crackline starting at half height. Climb the easy crack to a ledge and a #2RP aid move (or if you have a robotic arm climb it free via a desperately wide pinching layaway - awaiting a FFA). Clip the BR from a small edge, then continue up to a horizontal break and easy ground once the crack is attained.
Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, Jun 1990.
72.Toes and Thumbs12m13 
Left of Mr Queasy. Follow the corner/crack system to the ledge and tree.
Editors Note 2021: Needs a brush
Greg Aimer, Chrissy Freestone, 1991.
73.Mr Queasy12m18 
Go down the notch mentioned in Konked Out for 5m and on the L is a short handcrack. Belay at the eucalypt and climb the crack to the horizontal break. Surmount the bulge above for a slightly queasy experience, then reach through to a large ledge.
Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Simon Stubbs, Bruce Newman, Sep 1988.
74.Our People Are Nuts12m18 
The face to the right of Mr Queasy. Mantle onto the ledge then follow the easy crack until a wedged block. Continue up the finger crack (crux) to the horizontal and then up the bulge to the top
Jeroen Janson, Lawrence Wonhas, August 2022 (may have had an earlier ascent)
75.The Friends We Need / Entheogen15m16 
The big off-width right of 'Our People Are Nuts'. Start at the boulder beneath the base, through the gap, then up the off-width. Bring big cams (#5 and #6) for the upper section.
Jeroen Janson, Lawrence Wonhas, August 2022 (Dave James and Shirley Zeng were beaten to the FA by a week, but added the direct start underneath the boulder at the base)

Zundapp & Time Warp Buttress

The large amphitheatre of buttresses above the wattle grove host a range of routes. Located left of Bismark Buttress above the wattle forest. There is a lower-off above Jesus Trousers / Time Warp.
76.Zundapp20m18 
Up the brushed face with incipient cracks, then continue through the bulge (RPs) and the slab above. Finish up past a small roof / corner to the top of the buttress.
Evan Peacock, Al Adams, Jul 1988.
77.Sundy Mockry12m13 
The lichenous finger crack about 5m R of Zundapp.
Evan Peacock, May 1990.
78.Two Tired12m13 
Finger crack 3m right of "Sunday Mockry". Head up until crack widens (Large cam handy). Either continue up to point where where it is possible to blindly step L into groove or enter groove from lowest point.
Liam Mangan-Smith, Neale Smith, July 2022
79.Paunch10m12 
Climb the smooth orange crack through the bulges up the RH side of the buttress.
Peter Jackson, Mendelt Tillema, Feb 1971.
80.No Corruption12m13 
Found below Fat and Married on an isolated buttress, this route has caused quite a few new leaders to come unstuck on its tricky jams. The route takes the obvious crack up the center. Belay on top and walk-off to the right.
Russ Hinze, Terry Lewis, 1975 - 1998.
81.Fat and Married15m18 
Climbs the small rounded buttress above No Corruption. Climb the arête using layaways on the RHS then cross left and continue up the face and seams to the top. Rap-off tree.
Evan Peacock, Tim Olding, Aug 1988.
82.Get Out Oscar12m17 
Starts just right of the chimney. A couple of unprotected but easy moves lead to a crack and bomber RP protection. Continue straight up into the bushes.
Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, Tim Albion, Oct 1990.
83.Stung15m10 
Climbs the short crack to the left of the flake on Jesus Trousers. Bush-bash walk-off or rap-off tree.
Chris Dawson, Mary McWhirther, Sep 1974.
84.Jesus Trousers12m16 
Nice jamming and bridging up the obvious corner-groove. Take care with the large flake. Step right to lower off.
Phil Steane, Pete Steane, Noel Ward, Doug Fife, Oct 1982.
★ 85.Time Warp12m18 
Quintessential Lowdina face climbing. Start from the bottom of the buttress and trend right or step onto the face from the RHS of the arete in the gully. Follow the left-trending thin crack up the buttress using layaways, face-holds, and wishful thinking. RPs, small wires and micro-cams are the go. Lower-off.
Pete Steane, Doug Fife, Noel Ward, Oct 1982. Direct start: Nat Duhig, Mike Edwards, Nov 1986.

The Twilight Zone

Taking the track further uphill from the Spazattack Buttress will take you to the Twilight Zone. These are a series of short buttresses ending at a gully (Perchance to Dream Buttress). Further to the left from here is the Zundapp and Time Warp Buttress.
86.Six shooter10m17 
Just left of Nightmare at 10,000 mm is a gaping off-width. Climb this to the top and tree belay. Take some BD sixes and some finger-sized cams.
Henry Garratt, Mark Passier, Christoph Speer, Nov 2021
87.Nightmare at 10,000 mm10m16 
Climb the obvious clean corner crack to the left of Perchance to Dream. Lower-off.
Christoph Speer, Henry Garratt, August 2021
★ 88.Perchance to Dream20m18 
Seldom done because of the location, but reportedly one of Garn's best FAs. Starts up an unlikely looking face and poised above is a block attached to a gently overhanging arête. Mount this as elegantly as possible and continue up the crack above. Walk-off to climbers left down the gully. A little dirty currently.
Garn Cooper, Al Adams, Pete Steane, Dec 1984.
89.The Contortionist8m18 
The short, thin finger-crack in a groove. Weird but interesting moves. Step right to lower-off.
Christoph Speer, Jai Friend, August 2022
90.The Bearded Lady8m14 
The short hand crack 2 m right of The Contortionist to DBB lower-off. Worth doing if you're already here - or just bored with life itself.
Christoph Speer, Jai Friend, August 2022
91.Dancing Shoes10m13Mixed 
The slab above Morning Sun, past a #4 cam, single bolt and RPs and micro-cams in the fused seam. Lower-off. A good introductory route to RP and micro-cam placements before tackling the more challenging routes here in this style.
Christoph Speer, Jai Friend, August 2022

Spazattack and Bismark Buttress (LHS)

Located immediately uphill and left of Bismark Buttress. There are a number of lower-offs above the climbs that can be used to descend.
★ 92.Morning Sun20m17 
The furthest line left. Follow the delightful easy crack until you are forced to step right at the top below the thin finger crack. Thoughtful moves follow this to the top of the buttress (crux). Step right to lower-off. Very small cams and wires protect the crux.
Jeroen Jansen, Christoph Speer, July 2022
★ 93.Things to do While Waiting for the Apocalypse20m14 
Consistent and well-protected (use a small wire for the start). Follow the crack-line, with the crux at the top.
Christoph Speer, Jeroen Jansen, July 2022
★★ 94.Mother Earth17m18 
So named due to the extent of excavation required to clean the route. Follow the tricky left leaning hand-crack to the chockstones (keyed-in), mount these into the tomb and head to the top and lower-off. Take a BD #4 - no bigger gear needed.
Christoph Speer, Jeroen Jansen, July 2022
★ 95.Spazattack20m18 
Good climbing with a poorly protected crux, requiring leaders to be confident at the grade. Start on the far LHS of the buttress and climb the face / flake, trending right to the horizontal break at 6m. Take a deep breath and commit to the bulge and seam-line above the ledge (RPs), aiming for the horizontal break (crux - a long reach helps). Continue up the face and LHS arete above with better protection (more RPs and micro-cams) to the lower-off.
Garn Cooper, Pete Steane, Oct 1984.
★ 96.Spazattack Direct20m23Mixed 
The direct start to Spazattack, which takes the difficult right trending thin crack/layback to meet the original route at the ledge. Bold moves above the bolt to reach the RP placement before the ledge.
Top Rope: Evan Peacock, Justin Kennedy, Oct 1985. FFA: Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, Jun 1990. Re-bolted in 2022.
★★ 97.Drury Line22m22Mixed 
Excellent technical climbing on great rock, this route was once a hefty and scary sandbag that was given the original grade of 20. The route is still challenging at 22, and is now well-protected with the addition of the first 4 bolts(!).
Climb the face to the horizontal break (finger sized cams) and a stance above. Tackle the boulder problem, trending right into a stance below the first roof. Clip the last bolt with a long draw and hand traverse left around the roof to access the groove crack above at a tenuous stance. Small wires and micro-cams lead through this to a lower-off.
Evan Peacock, Steve Ford, Feb 1992. Re-bolted / retro-bolted in 2022 with FA permission.
98.Being A Pirate20m26Mixed 
Good rock, but the upper bolted line ventures very close to R chimney. The overhanging arête 3m R of Drury Line. A desperate technical slab, followed by a strenuous journey up the arête around the roof. 4 FH's (some bolts rusted - inspect before clipping).
Evan Peacock, Sep 1992.
★★ 99.Hooter23m17 
A grade test-piece that provides a few heart-in-mouth moments, well before you've even reached the crux.
Climb onto the face of the buttress from the RHS, arrange your gear, then follow the exciting rising traverse left across a thin flake into a stance below a piton (back it up). Continue straight-up the face and thin crack with the reassurance of micro-cams. Mantle easily and keep following the line, finishing up the short wall above to a lower-off.
Peter Jackson, Noel Ward, Doug Bruce, 1984.
100.Grasshopper Island23m15 
Companion line to Hooter. Start as for Hooter, but continue up the arete instead of traversing out left. Weave between the thin crack on the right, and the crack left of the arete to find the gear placements. RP's or a large cam come in handy between the first and second rooflet.
Evan Peacock, Tim Albion, Colin Reed, 1992.
101.Wetcheck20m13 
The straight wide crack just right of Grasshopper Island. Minimal jamming required.
John Moore, Peter Jackson, Aug 1970.
102.Mrs Malaprop15m17 
The lichenous slab / face in the alcove just right of Wetcheck. Nice moves, but the runners are all dubious (small wires).
Evan Peacock, Al Adams, Grant Rowbottom, Aug 1992.
103.V8 Donk25m18Mixed 
Start immediately left of Hood on a ledge about 10m up. Gain the ledge from the left and climb to the horizontal break. Crux to the small ledge, then follow the #1 RP crack, before a mantle to easier ground. One carrot bolt (looks OK) and 1 FH (rusted - inspect before clipping).
Editors Note 2022: Route needs a clean before becoming approachable.
Evan Peacock, Steve Ford, Feb 1992.

Bismark Buttress (Centre)

The first part of the cliff you'll come to if you followed the pink-taped track. There's a suite of routes on this buttress and a lower-off at the top of Bismark. The initial 10m of easy (and lichenous) rock can be avoided by walking in to the base of the climbs via the RHS past Illegal Move (facing the cliff).
★ 104.Hood30m16 
The first route climbed at Lowdina. Add a star if you like old school adventures. Start as for Bismark for 2m, then hand jam left onto the nose following the horizontal line to the base of the wide crack. Go up the chimney / wide crack system until it ends at the massive roofs. Step out left here and follow the system up to belay on top. Walk-off down the back.
Michael McHugh, Robert McMahon, 1968.
★★ 105.Subvert the Dominant Paradigm20m16 
Good climbing that feels rather exposed. Start as for Hood to establish yourself in the crack-line just to the left of Bismark. Follow this straight-up until you reach the big roof, then make some cool moves out right using the massive flake to finish up the Bismark chimney to the lower-off.
Garn Cooper, Pete Steane, 1986.
★ 106.Bismark20m15 
The grunty looking wide crack in the prow of the Buttress is actually quite benevolent. Up the crack in the prow to the bulge and through it using small holds on the right. Continue past the small rooves and bridge the chimney to the top. DBB Lower-off.
Michael McHugh, Peter Jackson, 1968.

Bismark Buttress (RHS)

107.Doug's Rat Roxanne20m22Mixed 
Nice but short-lived climbing on the LHS arete and face. Starting from the top of the boulder, difficulties past the 3 bolts to a ledge. Finish up the easy corner and chimney as for Bismark and lower-off. Take a single rack of cams (BD# 0.3 - 2) for gear above the bolts.
Evan Peacock, Steve Ford, Jun 1991. Re-bolted / Retro-bolted (with FA permission) in 2022.
★★ 108.Felix15m18Mixed 
Great steep climbing that is both well-protected and unlikely at the grade. Into the gully, then step-out left and follow the arete, face and intermittent cracks to a final step left at the top to lower-off. Take small/medium wires and cams from BD #0.2 - #3 to supplement the bolts. Don't clip the old FH.
Evan Peacock, Steve Ford, Grant Rowbottom, Aug 1992. Re-bolted / Retro-bolted (with FA permission) in 2023
109.Motorcycle Mama12m12 
A typical example of the Lowdina scene in the 90s and most likely a sandbag. Start up in the gully above Felix and follow the obvious crack (careful of loose rock at the top). Walk-off right.
Evan Peacock, May 1990.
★ 110.Illegal Move15m19Mixed 
Technical climbing. Pre-clipping the high bolt from the LHS first is a good idea. From the base of the buttress, boulder up the face to a stance on a narrow ledge. More bouldery moves past the bolt lead into a short finger crack and an easier finish. Trad belay and simple walk-off to the right. Take small wires and a single rack of cams from BD #0.3 - #2.
Garn Cooper, Al Adams, Sep 1985. Re-bolted in 2022
111.Otto Sausages12m18 
Once a nice climb on RP's, now covered in lichen. Climb the thin crack to a horizontal break - careful of the hanging block on the left. Easy walk-off to the right down the gully.
Evan Peacock, Grant Rowbottom, Steve Ford, Aug 1992.

Bonsai Buttress

Located up the gully left of the Virag Buttress and above Illegal Move, where a clean orange/gray face stands at the head of the gully. Lower-off at the top.
★ 112.Ukiyo-e8m213Þ 
Start at bottom left of the Bonsai wall. Up the centre of the wall, using left arete as needed, then finish up left arete to the crux at the top.
H Jackson and M Brown July 2021
★ 113.Bonsai8m243Þ 
Originally a bold start, 2 additional bolts were added to save some ankles. From the bottom L of the face, climb up the line of face holds past a RP#3 to an unusual crux move on the upper arete (choose either a desperate dyno or cryptic static move). Lower-off. A variant start exists on the RHS of the arete - place a small cam in seam and move up to join the original line at the second bolt.
Marcel Jackson, Peter Jackson, Apr 1990 (2 additional bolts added with permission of FA in 2021).

Virag Buttress

A popular buttress. Located just uphill and to the right of Bismark. A lower-off is located at the top of Virag for descent from the climbs.
114.Squawk23m17 
Named for the falcons who nested near here in the late 80's. Start immediately left around the corner from Ungar. Follow the thin fused crack (dust-off your RPs) through the series of ledges - face climb, mantle, face climb, mantle... finishing up the wide crack. Poor protection.
Evan Peacock, Al Adams, Oct 1988.
★ 115.Ungar25m17 
Tape-up. Starting just left of Plastacine Thylacine is a nice looking crack. Jam the fist to hand size crack through a series of bulges, each one a little more difficult than the last. Climb the short wall or chimney above when the crack ends on the ledge and make your way to the DBB above Virag.
John Moore, Peter Jackson, Sep 1970.
★★ 116.Plastacine Thylacine25m22Mixed 
Originally a bold lead with two carrot bolts and some RP placements that were unusually difficult to place on lead - now more approachable since some extra bolts have been added with permission from the FA. Start on the platform 3m L and downhill from Virag, at the base of the bulging face/arete. Climb boldly up the seam in the bulge to the first bolt, then continue up the arete using holds on the R wall (crux) to the horizontal break (0.3 Camelot). Weave up the upper face past a small wire and 3 more bolts, before exiting R to the easy wide crack which is followed into Virag.
Gear: a few draws, one long draw, small wires or RPs, plus a few cams between 0.3 and 2.
Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, Steve Ford, May 1990. Re-bolted / Retro-bolted in 2021 (with FA permission).
★★ 117.Virag25m17 
An old-school classic. Mick McHugh fell out on the FA and broke his leg! Thankfully, this route is very well-protected with modern gear. Climb the initial corner past the wonky spike and bridge out through the roof. Haul yourself up into the wide crack (big cam useful) and up this to reach the salvation of a face hold on the left-hand edge. Follow the hand-crack to the roof, then swing left around the corner or go direct up the wall (better) to finish at the DBB lower-off.
Michael McHugh, Peter Jackson, Jan 1971.
★★ 118.Wolfetone25m18 
Originally an aid-route, this thin layback corner still regularly spits-out aspiring leaders - fortunately the gear is bomber. Climb the right trending crack to a tricky exit and stance below the corner. Layback the difficult thin corner to a stance, then continue more easily to the top. Either finish through the chimney at the top or climb the wall to the anchor direct. Lower-off.
Robert McMahon, Peter Jackson, Nov 1969.
119.Mr Whimpy12m16 
From Wolfetone, move along to the second small buttress just R. Climb straight up the front of the buttress on flakes to the ledge on the R edge. Clip the fixed peg, then move back L onto the face of the summit block and up to finish.
Noel Ward, Peter Jackson, Jul 1984.
120.A Salted Battery8m252Þ 
The very steep face route on the back of Wolfetone. Start L of Baby Animals and climb up past 2 FH (stick clip the first). Good fun! No lower-off. Best to continue up the Wolftone chimney and belay at the Virag anchor.
Evan Peacock, Grant Rowbottom, Sep 1992.

The Gully

The Gully uphill and to the right of Virag Buttress.
121.Baby Animals8m16 
From Fruitless contour around L for about 20m to some largish boulders and a small face cleaned by rockfall. Climb the crack (small wires), with an interesting crux for short runts.
Lucas Bottomley, Richard Bottomley, Anna Hasan, Apr 1991.
122.Fruitless12m18 
Climb the face of the buttress for 6 m to the ledge below the small roof, move L around it, then back R to the crack and the top. A little mossy at present but still approachable.
Garn Cooper, Pete Steane, Sep 1984.
123.Bumper Crop8m12 
Climbs the short orange corner crack at the top of Fruitless. Good for those learning to jam.
Garn Cooper, Pete Steane, Sep 1984.
124.Old Man's Hands6m9 
The small, dirty handcrack past a bulge about 10 m R and up the gully from Fruitless. Start on the LH side of the gully just before a huge boulder.
Stuart Scott, Adrian Herington, 1981.
125.Good O's From Heaven10m25Mixed (carrots) 
The face immediately L and around the corner from Surprise Surprise and protected with a carrot bolt.

Editors Note 2021: Currently overgrown and hidden by a tree at the base of the route
Evan Peacock, Mar 1990.
126.Surprise, Surprise10m22Mixed (carrots) 
Harder than it looks. Uphill and L of Sweetie and behind that buttress is a brushed slab protected by three carrot bolts. The climb is directly opposite Old Mans Hands, across the gully. Climb easily to the first bolt, then move up R to a small scoop. After the second bolt move up to another bolt then the top. Walk-off.
Editors Note 2021: In need of a brush.
Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, Nov 1989.

Sweetie Buttress

The tall buttress located just right of The Gully as you head along the track. Lower-off at top.
★★ 127.Acerb20m22Mixed 
A highly memorable route which is airy and exciting - reach over and clip the first bolt from the gully before starting. Climb the face and left arete past two bolts into a stance at the base of the sloping roof. Arrange your gear (small cams useful), then launch out right on underclings and finish up Sweetie to the lower-off.
Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, Nov 1989. Re-bolted in 2022.
★★ 128.Onklunk20m25Mixed (carrots) 
Carrot bolts to be replaced soon. Start up the thin flake and head out right to clip the first bolt on the lip of the roof. Technical moves lead out right to a stance and the second bolt. Trend back left and climb up on side-pulls and a tiny foothold (crux) to join Acerb. Finish up this and lower-off.
Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, May 1990.
★ 129.Sweetie20m12 
Recently saved from the clutches of a blackberry bush. Up the wide crack to a ledge, climb the face then hand traverse left, finishing up the crack to a lower-off.
Peter Jackson, Mendelt Tillema, Mar 1971.

Yoda Buttress

The next buttress right from Sweetie in a recess. There is a lower-off above Chocolate and Brittle Little Mothers.
130.Nappy RushV1 
A hard little boulder problem (top-rope recommended) (Editors note: seriously?) with a poor landing. Start on the overhanging mini-buttress just L of Yoda.
Evan Peacock, May 1990.
★ 131.Strawberries20m14 
The clean crack-line left of Yoda. Stem the chimney and jam the crack to a small ledge, then move right onto the arete and up into the fist crack. Finish by hand-traversing right just below the huge block to the lower-off above Chocolate.
Christoph Speer, Martin Brown, July 2021
132.Dessert and a Movie20m19 
Climb the first part of Strawberries until you can undercling and side-pull out right using the flake. Finish up Yoda.
Christoph Speer, Jan 2022
★★★ 133.Yoda20m19 
Brilliant, sustained climbing up the thin line in the middle of the face. A historical note from Al: 'In 1982, I hit the ground from 6m on Yoda after ripping two poor RP placements. Instead of blaming my lack of skill in placing solid RPs, I blamed the poor protection offered by the route. It wasn't until 1984, after direct-aiding off RPs in Yosemite that I plucked-up the courage to attempt the route again. And.. you guessed it, the pro on Yoda turned out way better than adequate..'
Start up Chocolate and undercling the flake to gain the main line. Follow this to the top past numerous RPs, micro-cams and some more reassuring pieces. Lower-off.
Peter Jackson, Dec 1980.
134.Yoda Direct Start20m23 
A technical little start - unprotected, but not such a bad landing. Follow the slab 2m L of Chocolate until it joins the layaway above the undercling (and runners!).
Evan Peacock, May 1990.
★★ 135.Chocolate20m16 
Sweet hand-jamming. The obvious hand-crack through a troublesome bulge, just right of Yoda. Lower-off.
Peter Jackson, Dec 1980.
★★ 136.Brittle Little Mothers16m21Mixed 
Reminiscent of the UK gritstone style. Up the easy face/crack for 5m to the roof and trend out left to the arete and clip the bolt above. Crimp through this on the arete (crux) and continue delicately up the face past a good RP3 to the horizontal break. Continue up through the interesting open groove past another good RP3, then finish up the face to the lower-off. Protection is adequate despite appearances.
Evan Peacock, Roy Langman, Al Adams, Dec 1989. Re-bolted in 2022.

Albatross Buttress

Located just to the right of the Yoda Buttress is an impressive and intimidating buttress split by a soaring crack (Albatross). There is a lower-off on top of the buttress. Further right, the track drops down towards Greenknowe past some lichenous buttresses.
★ 137.Ulysses25m16 
The scene of some epic cleaning efforts in 2021 to restore this fine route. Uphill in the gully to the left of Albatross is a corner crack. Follow the fist crack to a cleaned ledge, then layback and jam the corner crack above. Finish up the exciting bottomless chimney (taking care of any loose rock at the back) to a lower-off.
Mendelt Tilema, Peter Jackson, Mar 1971.
138.Miasma25m15 
Adventurous - beware the poisonous vapours! The deep chimney just R of Ulysses.
Garn Cooper, Pete Steane, Dave Gardner, 1982.
★★ 139.Balbatross30m21 
The line left of Albatross that looks 3 grades harder (and may be at least 1!). Up the corner to a stance below the bulging roof. Arrange your gear, then commit to a strenuous layback sequence to a stance in a shallow chimney. Interesting moves through this to the finger crack. Finish by traversing right into Albatross to finish up the hand crack.
Fraser L-R, Christoph Speer, Anne Knox, Samson Stensletten, July 2023
★★★ 140.Albatross30m23 
In retrospect this climb was Australia’s first grade 23 - although it was graded 21 after the FA. A test-piece in technical jamming. The route follows the intimidating, overhanging, slick corner-line. Layback the flakes direct (dubious attachment) or traverse in from the left. Swing right around the corner, and then delicately mantle to the small ledge and smooth wall. Haul yourself up past the spike and into a stance at the base of the bottomless crack. Follow this with difficulty to the top. Lower-off.
The first climb actually given the grade of 23 was Henry Barber’s ascent of Insomnia at Frog Buttress in 1975 (now down graded to 22). For over 40 years it was falsely reported that Lewis used a point of aid for rest on Albatross’s 1974 first ascent. In interviews for Gerry Narkowicz’s book on the history of Tasmanian climbing in 2018, Lewis and his belayer Lyle Closs, categorically state that the route was done free. Barber who was originally credited with the first free ascent of Albatross the following year, ironically fell off the route, the only climb that he was reported to have fallen off during his visit to Australia. The climb was subsequently upgraded to 23 and is universally considered rather hard at this grade. So, it seems that at the time of Lewis' ascent it was the hardest piece of climbing done in Australia by quite a margin, but the grade was under-estimated by Lewis at the time - as was typical of his harder routes.
Ian Lewis, 1974. (the first record of this ascent appears in the Jan 1975 edition of Mountain #41, where it is graded 21).
141.Defender of the Phish30m23 
The face and slab on the front of the buttress to the right of Albatross has been climbed on top-rope. A decision was made not to bolt this due to its proximity to Albatross. Still worthwhile having a play though if you're at the anchor. Run the rope over the front of the buttress, and climb Albatross until at the base of the crack. Step right and up from here and follow the tricky face and delicate slab/groove above, finishing through the short crack to the anchor.
Martin Brown, August 2022

Yeti Flakes, Unfinished Symphony & Fingers and Thumbs Buttresses

The series of buttresses on the same contour and to the right of Albatross don't provide much value currently. They are all extremely lichenous and the quality ratings and grades given in the original guide aren't providing much inspiration for a mammoth cleaning effort to resurrect them...
142.A Ginger Cat Ate Rebecca20m16 
Start about 15m up the gully R of the Albatross buttress. Climb up to the horizontal break below the roof, then launch up the face (small RP's).
Evan Peacock, Steve Ford, Grant Rowbottom, Aug 1992.
143.Yeti Flakes25m17 
Start two sub-buttress R of Albatross on the same contour. Face climb up the thin flake on the LH side of the buttress.
Gerry Narkowicz, Pete Steane, 1981.
144.Feral Non-Immigrants20m17 
On the right side of the gully between Yeti Flakes and Unfinished Symphony is a crack. Scramble up the gully and jam to the top.
Jeroen Jansen, Cyril Scomparin, May 2022
145.Unfinished Symphony8m11 
Start on the front of the next buttress right of Yeti Flakes, a few metres R of a large recess. Climb up the crack to the ledge. Follow any of the variety of lines up (bounded on the R by a small square-cut pillar).
Chris Dawson, Mary McWhirther, Sep 1974.
146.Fingers and Thumbs15m13 
Thoughtful footwork required to negotiate an undercling. Start at the thin crack splitting the front of the next small buttress R of Unfinished Symphony, behind a big sheoak. Climb the crack past the undercling flake, to the break. Straight up the face of the buttress to top.
Editors Note 2022: Originally a * route. But needs a brush to restore it.
Phil Robinson, Chris Rathbone, Jul 1976.
147.Team Pursuit15m16 
Short and sweet... Seems rather changed now from the original description. Start from the gully about 6m R of Fingers & Thumbs. Traverse L and diagonally up on sizeable footholds and around arête to join the thin crack line at a suspect flake, 1m R of F&T. Thinly protected. Continue up past the flake to horizontal. Follow wide crack to top. An alternative variant is to climb F & T for 3m and then traverse R for a metre to the bottom of the thin crack line Follow this to the top past the suspect flake and wide crack, as for the original route (17).
Editors Note 2022: Originally a * route. But needs a brush to restore it.
Doug Bruce and Team, 1985.
148.Team Pursuit Direct15m20 
The direct start.
Evan Peacock, Apr 1990.
149.If This Pavement Should Stray Or Rome, Smack It In The Bum, I Love DebraV1 
The boulder problem up the detached pinnacle on the RH side of the gully R of Fingers and Thumbs.
Garn Cooper, 1986.

Greenknowe Buttress

This buttress is located directly below Bulging Biceps Buttress and about 80m to climbers right and downhill from the Albatross Buttress. There is a lower-off for Caged and Greenknowe.
150.Hooning the Block15m13 
From Fingers and Thumbs go downhill to a prominent buttress/pillar lower than the rest. This route climbs the arête 10m L of Greenknowe. Start up the face R of the arête, then move onto the arête at the horizontal, finishing straight up. Poorly protected.
Garn Cooper, David Loone, 1985.
151.York Street15m15 
The line just R of Hooning the Block. Finish up Hooning the Block. Poorly protected.
Dave Gardner, Ross Adams, 1986.
152.Discalculia15m13-17 
The crack 10m right of the of the large leaning pillar and 18.5m left of Greenknowe. Rock seems ok, coould be an error of judgement...
Dave James and Xinyu Zheng July 2122
153.Sheening With the Dovens25m18 
The arête a few metres L of Greenknowe. Nice climbing but lichenous and poorly protected. The start was originally protected by slinging a branch on the now dead tree.
Garn Cooper, Noel Ward, Sep 1984.
★ 154.Greenknowe18m12 
Adventurous climbing for the grade. Climb the smooth chimney, trending right to the nose of the buttress past the first roof. Up to the second roof and around it on the left. Continue up the short wall above to the DBB lower-off.
Peter Jackson, Mendelt Tillemma, Nov 1969.
155.Queasonaire15m18 
Climb the face 1m R of Greenknowe, with protection at 4m (and after the crux!), to join the aforementioned at its roof.
Evan Peacock, Mar 1989.
★ 156.Caged18m21Mixed 
Balancy climbing that's worth a few moments. Originally started direct through the scoop with only a single piton for protection. Now you just need to follow the bolts through the bulge to a lower-off. A small cam in the seam to the left protects the start.
Marcel Jackson, Peter Jackson, Oct 1989. Retro-bolted in 2021 with FA permission.
157.Shirvan10m14 
From the middle of the buttress just R of Greenknowe move up on big holds to the ledge on the RH edge. Step L for protection behind a suspect flake, then finish directly up the middle.
Peter Jackson, Noel Ward, 1984.

Biceps Buttress

The Biceps Buttress is situated directly above the Greenknowe Buttress and just to the left of the Papillon Buttress. There is a lower-off above Bulging Biceps/Triceps. Grade 4 downclimb off the back of the buttress for descent from Joyride and Juvenile Hall.
158.Joyride12m15 
Trickier than it looks. At the left hand end of Biceps Buttress a leaning gum tree sits in front of a slabby arete. Start behind tree and mount the small bulge, then continue up the face to the top. The challenge is to find the RP placements and not use the tree.
Al Adams, Simon Stubbs, Paul Taylor, Nov 1987.
159.Juvenile Hall12m13 
The scene of more possum magic. Follow the sinuous hand-crack and finish up the easy chimney to belay on top of the buttress. Grade 4 down-climb off the back or traverse (stay roped-up) to the anchor above Bulging Biceps for descent.
Al Adams, Garn Cooper, 1987.
160.Mature Anteroom12m10 
Cracks and chimney just right of Juvenile Hall. Good for the grade and doable without mature sized cams.
Dave James, Tim Whelan, June 2022
★ 161.Bulging Biceps16m21Mixed 
Load-up on creatine. Originally starting off the block in the gully, an extended start was added in 2021 and is now the way to do the route. Climb into the sentry box and escape this moving up and right past three bolts. Follow the thin crack (good RPs) above the last bolt, then continue more easily to the top and lower-off.
Al Adams, Simon Stubbs, Nov 1987 (Bulging Biceps - 18). Hamish Jackson, Gordon Broome, July 2021 (Bulging Triceps - extended start). Re-bolted in 2023.

Papillon Buttress

Papillon Buttress is at the same level and immediately right of Bulging Biceps Buttress. The flat area in front from where the topo image is taken, is Lunchspot Ledge. There is a lower-off to service Blue Turtles, Snoober and Papillon. Easy walk-off right for Canary.
162.Rocket Fuel15m15 
Above Lunchspot Ledge is a dead gum tree standing in front of the buttress. The start of Rocket Fuel is located 5m left of the dead gum at a leftward facing flake. Climb the flake to a ledge with a large block on it, then follow the multiple crack system above to the top.
Al Adams, Pete Steane, Jul 1984.
163.Blue Turtles15m16 
Needs taking to with a brush!. Climb the line that starts 1.5m right of Rocket Fuel. The flake down low is loose.
Al Adams, Martin Rose, Sep 1987.
★★ 164.Snoober17m17 
The naughty thin line up the face of the buttress, which continues through the bulge and up the face / cracks above. Protection is decent, but you'll need to work hard to place the small gear (RPs and micro-cams) in the thin crack. Lower-off at top.
Peter Jackson, Bob deCesare, Jan 1981.
165.Stella Goes Trad Climbing15m15 
Nice climbing but contrived. Climb Papillon to the ledge, then climb the arete without using the corner.
Jeroen Jansen, Stella Lawless, May 2022
★★ 166.Papillon15m11 
Good for the grade. Papillon is the obvious crack just left of the dead gum. Jam to a small ledge and up the corner to belay on top, being mindful of some suspect blocks at the top of the corner. Lower off as for Snoober.
Peter Jackson, Bob Bull, May 1971.
★ 167.Canary15m15 
Hidden behind the native cherry is a nice route worthy of your time. Start 2m right of Papillon and climb up the face and into the thin finger crack. Continue following the line to a fist-width crack. Surmount this and top out next to Papillon and Snoober. Belay on top and walk-off easily to the right.
Lyle Closs, Ian Lewis, Jul 1972.
168.Bird on a Wire12m18 
Start just right of Canary as the buttress turns uphill. Follow the system of thin cracks straight up to the previous climbs overhang.
Steve Hamilton, Hamish Jackson, Sep 1991.
169.Sein Zum Tode12m20 
Climbs the enticing face right of Bird on a Wire. The crux is the first moves although the upper section is a little balancy. The main piece of protection is to be found at the first horizontal.
Marcel Jackson (with TR inspection) and Rob Williams 1994?.
170.Fist7m13 
Obvious isn't it? Jam the fist crack in the gully around the back of the Papillon buttress. Finishes at the same spot as Canary.
Lyle Closs, Ian Lewis, Jul 1972.
171.The Prave10m10 
The line up the front of the buttress directly below Papillion Buttress that finishes on Lunchspot Ledge.
Garn Cooper, 1987.
172.Middled Aged Crisis8m16 
Worth a few moments. The short crack on the small buttress immediately above Papillon Buttress. Walk-off left.
Dave Drake, Geoff Wayatt, 1979.
173.Heidelberg Direct20m17 
A clean layback corner leading to an offwidth and the scene of a serious accident. Found 7m right of Middle Aged Crisis and immediately uphill of Fist. Climb the line avoiding the worst of the tragedy by traversing from the top of the shaky block around the nose and up on small holds. Continue straight up. Protection is difficult to arrange.
Peter Steane (Top Roped), Feb 1984.

Lumbar Cruncher & The Danger Hog Shuffle Buttresses

Found above and to the right of the Papillion Buttress. A number of fantastic climbs on excellent quality and interesting rock. Lower-offs exist at the top of each buttress. Further past the Danger Hog Shuffle, the cliff-line starts to peter out until you come to the Wailing Wall.
174.Expiry20m18 
Start about 20m right of Heidelberg Direct on the left hand side of the second of the two prominent recesses, and opposite Rudge. Climb up the crack for 4m, then traverse left around the awkward bulge and up to the ledge. Surmount the offwidth - the chockstone here in the photo is reportedly now missing and makes this section the crux - then climb the large curving flake at the top - careful of rockfall.
Asahel Bush, Phil Robinson, Jun 1975.
★ 175.Lithium low down25m18Mixed 
Starts 1m left of Expiry, and crosses this climb at half height. Climb the intermittent cracks on the front of the buttres until the ledge at the start of the off-width on Expiry. Clip bolt high and right, climb face (tricky), or off width for 2m to horizontal break, then make exciting traverse right to arete (crux). Follows cracks on arete to top.
Gordon Broome, Hamish Jackson July 2021
★★ 176.Lumbar Cruncher23m23Mixed 
The original route. As for LCD, but move left and pull-through onto the arête on the jugs at the overhang. Traverse back right to finish up the overhanging crack and exit jugs on the prow.
Marcel Jackson, Peter Jackson, Mar 1990. Retro-bolted (with FA permission) in 2021 - two knifeblade pitons were used on the FA to protect the crux.
★★ 177.Lumbar Cruncher Direct23m24Mixed 
Steep, technical and varied. The route tackles the gorgeous, steep orange wall left of the recess. The direct version improves the original as it continues up the steep line and is not escapable. Climb the smooth wall, then continue up the thin crack to the overhang. Pull-up past a bolt and move slightly R to the upper sentry box (crux). Finish up the overhanging crack and exit jugs on the prow. Lower-off.
The natural gear is bomber and placed easily from good stances (a few cams from BD #0.2 - 0.75 and a BD #2 for the final crack).
Hamish Jackson, Gordon Broome, July 2021
★ 178.Rudge20m16 
Some rather interesting moves for the grade, take a big cam or two. Get upside down and climb onto the jammed block from the left to get yourself established in the wide crack. Follow this to the top and lower-off. A nice variant at grade 18 starts by entering the line from the RHS.
Lyle Closs, Ian Lewis, Oct 1973 (Original). Jeroen Jansen, Stella Lawless, May 2022 (RH Variant)
★★ 179.The Danger Hog Shuffle20m18Mixed 
Not one you'll forget in a hurry. Bridge the shallow corner past some wires then clip the bolt. Move up and left around the arete to reach the crack-line (crux). Compose yourself and continue up the crack until the horizontal break, step left around the arete and up to the lower-off. Pull the rope from next to Rudge to avoid a rope jam.
Martin Walch, Garn Cooper, Jun 1986. Re-bolted in 2022.
180.Wee Ratty6m14 
A good route given it's height. The crack/layaway on the small buttress just right of the Danger Hog Shuffle. Grade 4 down-climb to the right to get off.
Otmar Buchman, 1981.
181.Quine18m18 
A few metres right and uphill from Wee Ratty is a small flat buttress. Climb up easily to the base of the thin crack on the left arête. Follow this up, finishing to the right of the main face.
Marcel Jackson, Peter Jackson, Oct 1989.
182.Exactuary10m14 
Exact details unknown but known to be somewhere in the vicinity of Big Electric Cat.
Garn Cooper, Noel Ward, 1986.
183.Big Electric Cat10m12 
The bridging problem to the L of Gilmigrim.
Garn Cooper, 1986.
184.Gilmigrim10m13 
Beware of loose blocks. About 50m R of Wee Ratty is a higher and more prominent buttress with a square roof at its top. From the front of the buttress climb the wide crack to the ledge. Continue up the face to the small ledge then either pull through the roof or step back R and up.
Garn Cooper, Noel Ward, Aug 1984.
185.Triangle Smile6m14 
Climb the crack through the bulge at the top of No Hi Jinx buttress.
Ray Lassman
186.Small Acoustic Dog8m21 
Located on the small buttress just L of No Hi Jinx. Climb straight through the roof on RP's and cams.
Colin Reed, Evan Peacock, Steve Ford, Nov 1990.

Spook Fright

Located about 40 m above the Wailing Wall.
187.Spook Fright5m13 
A fun filled 5 meters all by itself. Stonker gear and a few good moves makes it a good warm up before wailing wall, which is a further 40m down the hill.
Chris Lang, Jamie Spencer, Aug 2021

Confusalation Buttress

Somewhere lost between Greenknowe Buttress and Wailing Wall. Doesn't appear to be described?
At that lower contour anyways.
A few other cracks doable here but shorter and less appealing to modern tastes.
188. Fog813 
Corner and crack on tallest and proudest part of the buttress, that is, if a topo photo isn't enough...
Worthwhile.
Probably climbed last century or else... Dave James and Tim Whelan. June 2022

Wailing Wall

The last of the major buttresses on the RHS of the cliff. To get there from the base follow the faint ridge-line from the top of the fields up and R of the car park - this makes for a somewhat easier walk than than the central uphill track line. To traverse there from the south, take a slightly downward trajectory across from lunch stop ledge for 5 mins (300m) - the wall faces north so is not visible until you have crossed the ridgeline.
★ 189.No Hi Jinx12m17 
Start 3m L of Ashlars' Edge in the corner 2m left of the arate. From the base of the corner climb up and R to a small ledge then gain the arête and continue up it on the left side. Slightly loose. Small gear necessary.
Al Adams, Garn Cooper, Pete Steane, Aug 1984.
★★ 190.Ashlars' edge15m22Mixed 
Start 5m left of Wailing wall at the short orange corner 2m right of the arete. Climb short short corner (small cam optional), step left onto nose (crux) and continue up wall just R of arete to the small ledge 4m before the top (small cam required here <0.3 camelot). Now climb diagonally right up face to DBB above the wailing wall.
H Jackson and M Brown Aug 2021
★★★ 191.Wailing Wall12m26Mixed 
Superb and sustained face climbing on what is considered by some as the best rock at Lowdina. Climbs the distinctive blank orange wall past 4BR's (some recently replaced 2021) and a #2 camalot to protect final 4m to DBB lower-off.
Alt start (18m 26): Start for Ashler's edge, up to first BR, then more right up obvious diagonal to reach first BR of WW (run out, or small cam at feet). Adds 6m of gr 22 climbing.
Marcel Jackson, Hamish Jackson, Jan 1992. Alt start H Jackson 2021
192.Argonautica15m16 
Start just to the R of Wailing Wall and climb the obvious crack/chimney.
Chris Dawson, Mary McWhirther, Oct 1974.
193.Whimper1516 
The wider crack about 2 m right of Argonautica. Not really offwidthing. No.5 handy but not essential.
probably someone last century but otherwise Dave James and Tim Whelan June 2022
194.Velveteen7m6 
Climbs the short arête and wall of perfect dolerite about 4m R of Argonautica. A knife blade was placed in the horizontal on the FA.
Rob Williams, Marcel Jackson, 1994.

Radical Centrist Buttress

This block has a lovely clean orange front face and is found 80m right and 30m up hill from the Wailing wall. Head north from the wailing wall crossing a minor gully at 50m, and a minor ridgeline at 80m. The buttress lies 30m up the hill.
★ 195.Radical Centrist12m24Mixed 
Start at the bottom right and move up the orange wall and small overlap with difficulty (crux - requires an usual number of moves left and right to facilitate progress to finally gain the upper left quadrant before the rooflet). Up seam above rooflet, then crack to top. DBB
H Jackson and G Broome Aug 2021
★ 196.Authoritarian ultranationalism 10m20Mixed 
A great companion route to RC. Climb steep face right of arete past 2 FH and funky moves, then gain finger crack, onto ledge, then hand crack to finish.
G Broome and H Jackson Aug 2021

Topless Buttress

Located downhill and across the gully from Wailing Wall.
197.Puffin15m14 
Climb 'Topless on 24s' to the horizontal break, go left and up the left-most groove. Bonus points if you sling the dead branches emerging from the crack.
Jamie Spencer, Chris Lang, Aug 2021
198.Winter dog15m14 
Climb 'Topless on 24s' to the horizontal break, go left and up the middle groove.
Chris Lang, Jamie Spencer, Aug 2021
★ 199.Topless on twenty-fours15m14 
The obvious clean fist-sized crack line, made for learning to jam. Two micro cams are nice, stonker gear to the top.
Chris Lang, Jamie Spencer, Aug 2021
 


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3 Comments

  1. I'm no geologist but I believe this crag has been misidentified as dolerite when it has all the markers of being sandstone. The colour, the features, the location, the texture, it all strongly suggests sandstone. Happy to be proven wrong. 

  2. Hi Robert,

    As a geologist, I can confidently say it is most definitely dolerite.  It certainly has some unique weathering though which forms the nice arapiles type bulges etc.

    1. Mind blown, no idea it could weather like that.