<guide version="2" pagesize="1500" guidestars="**"> <header id="1" autonumber="true" camping="" walk="1-15 min" sun="All day sun" rock="Short vertical dolerite buttresses. Mostly trad routes, but some bolts." name="Cataract Gorge - Sunny Side" intro="Climbing in Launceston used to happen mainly in the Gorge area which is 10 minutes walk from the centre of town however it now also includes the whole of the South Esk. As with most of Tassie, a lot of the climbing is on dolerite crags, in cracks and corners, occasionally branching out on to the faces and aretes. This section of the guide has only been possible thanks to the input of the local climbing community. That being said it is everyone’s responsibility to ensure editors are supplied accurate and up to date information. If you spot inaccuracies, let us know and we’ll fix them, if you’re not prepared to do this don’t complain about the product! As such this is a ragtag collection of gossip and innuendo and should be treated as such. A lot of these routes haven’t been done by yours truly so I can’t vouch for their grades, quality or even give them a character reference. A lot of the routes are not even known by names except as “that 19 left of...”. In these cases I made up names for them because I got sick of writing “left of the 19...”. Such climbs are marked with a #. Climbers have worked closely with the Launceston City Council who are concerned about safety for climbers and walkers. To ensure continued access to the cliffs climbers have negotiated a Code of Conduct with the council. See http://www.launceston.tas.gov.au/upload/3819/conduct.pdf for a copy. A basic summary of this appears below and it will improve our chances of continuing to climb in the Gorge if you can follow them…. Don’t act like a dickhead! Be nice to the trees, animals, tourists and plants. If you have to scrub a new route for hours before it’s climbable then don’t bother as it will probably be covered in lichen again after the winter. Routes directly above the “Tourist Track” must be adequately protected to ensure the safety of the non-climbing public. Let people know what you are doing (nobody wants a climber plummeting onto them out of the blue!). Fixed anchors should be current best practice with the use of corrosive metals and “carrots” considered sub-standard. All routes (including gear routes) above Tourist Tracks must have double lower off bolts (this protects vegetation and eliminates the risk of dislodging stones while scrambling down off climbs). For current information contact Ian Ferrier at Mountain Designs in York St, Launceston. There is no intention to deter bold climbing or tell people when and where to bolt, but all climbers should understand that this is an access issue and that there is much rock away from tourist areas. The Gorge is the most popular climbing area in Launceston, it is broken into two areas. The Shady Side and the Sunny Side. Simple hey! Obviously climb on the Shady Side on hot sunny days and on the Sunny Side any other time. Be Safe. Be Good and ... use ‘adequate protection’." history="" acknowledgement="by Michael Fox, originally published in Craglets" access="All the climbs on the (south) Sunny Side of the Gorge can be accessed from the Zig-Zag track, which starts at the soute side of Kings Bridge. Park in the Penny Royal car-park, just before the bridge. See the sketch map for an idea of how to get to the buttresses. "/> <text id="317" class="heading3">Crag Steward</text> <text id="318" class="text">Rock climbers please contact the Cliff Steward (eskriver@climbersclubtas.org.au) if you have any queries or concerns regarding social or environmental impacts of rock climbing at this crag. Do not email regarding general travel, seasonal advice, or lost property - this is not the Steward’s role. If you have important safety information to communicate (e.g. risks due to recent and large rock falls) please also consider updates on thesarvo forum, facebook group and/or online guidebooks as appropriate. Please copy in cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you feel you have a high level concern which may imminently impact the crag or climbing community.<br/><br/>Non-climbers, other users, land managers: please also contact cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you have important climbing related queries at this location.</text> <image id="2" height="653" width="" src="Launceston Area Access Map.png" noPrint="false"/> <image id="3" height="1175" width="700" src="Launceston_Zigzag.PNG" noPrint="false">null</image> <text class="heading3" id="4">Seif Buttress</text> <text class="text" id="5">Access- see map. The first major (8m) pinnacle that you come to on the uphill side of the zig-zag track. Beware the large flake on the right has been known to move. DBB on top.</text> <climb id="6" name="Miff-Take" number="1." fa="Thomas, McMahon, Ling, 1980." length="8m" grade="19" extra="">Up the face on the front of the pinnacle to the horizontal break and then left to the crack.</climb> <climb id="7" name="Arête Direct" number="2." fa="Parsons (solo), 1982." length="8m" grade="20" extra="" stars="">Start in yellow open book corner, up to horizontal break and then up arête.</climb> <climb id="8" name="Seif" number="3." fa="McMahon, McHugh, 1972. " length="8m" grade="17" extra="">From back right-hand edge of pinnacle traverse left to hand crack and up. Various combinations of these have been done including a traverse around the whole pinnacle at the level of the horizontal break (about 22).</climb> <text class="heading3" id="9">Trackside Buttress</text> <text class="text" id="10">Access- see map. The largest piece of climbable rock right beside the track. The first ascentionists are long forgotten but it still makes an excellent place to start climbing with a lot of the routes off the vertical. Bolt belays on top.</text> <climb id="11" name="Tree Route" number="4." length=" 8m" grade="12" extra="" stars="**">The hand-sized crack on the left-hand end. A great start to your jamming career.</climb> <climb id="12" name="Companion Corner" number="5." length="8m" grade="12" extra="">Corner to 2m right of the Tree Route.</climb> <climb id="13" name="Apron Slab" number="6." length="10m" grade="18" extra="" stars=" * ">The left trending line of underclings.</climb> <climb id="14" name="Centre Corner" number="7." length="10m" grade="16" extra="">What else</climb> <climb id="15" name="Fern Crack" number="8." length="10m" grade="12" extra="">The crack 3m right of Centre Corner.</climb> <climb id="16" name="Nark" number="9." length="8m" grade="19" extra="">The next arete right of Fern Crack.</climb> <climb id="17" name="Tremulo" number="10." length="8m" grade="18" extra="">Boulder problem start in the shallow corner near the end of the buttress.</climb> <text class="text" id="18">Lots of boulder problems and traverses also exist in this area.</text> <text class="heading3" id="19">Uphill Buttress</text> <text class="text" id="20">Access- scramble up from the downstream end of Track Side Buttress. The climbs start around the corner on the downstream side and are 6-8m high.</text> <climb id="21" name="Jamal" number="11." fa="McMahon, McHugh, 1972." grade="16" extra="">The off-width.</climb> <climb id="22" name="H-Block" number="12." fa="Parsons, Grant, Moore, 1978." grade="18" extra="">Bulging hand crack to off-width.</climb> <climb id="23" name="Felodese" number="13." fa="Ng, 1990." grade="23" extra="">Up face with single bolt.</climb> <climb id="24" name="Serafino" number="14." fa="McMahon, McHugh, 1972." grade="15" extra="">The off-width to chimney on the front of the buttress.</climb> <climb id="25" name="Mini Mayhem" number="15." fa="Parsons, Carrigan, 1982." grade="25" extra="">Face climbing to a thin crack 3m right of Serafino. DBB.</climb> <climb id="26" name="Zoot" number="16." fa="Thomas, McMahon, Ling, 1980." grade="20" extra="" stars=" ** ">Boulder problem start to gain access to the finger crack. DBB.</climb> <climb id="27" name="Speransky" number="17." grade="17" extra="">The crack on the right hand side of the buttress.</climb> <climb id="28" name="Waiting for Kate" number="18." fa="Dennis Kearnes, Kate Tasker 4 Nov 2009." length="8m" grade="17" extra="2Þ" stars="">On the face uphill and to the right of Speransky with 2 FH.</climb> <text class="heading3" id="29">Offal Buttress</text> <text class="text" id="30">Access- see map. Basically down hill from Trackside. Beware of the fervid abseilers. DBB on top.</text> <climb id="31" name="Blue No More" number="19." fa="McMahon, Smith, 1981." length="15m" grade="22" extra="">On the left hand end off the cliff 6m from Pelvic Thrust is a flaring corner. Up this to thin seam which widens to a hand crack.</climb> <climb id="32" name="Pelvic Thrust" number="20." fa="Fantini, McMahon, 1981." length="18m" grade="21" extra="" stars=" * ">Thin crack to FH and small roof and then out left to final crack.</climb> <climb id="33" name="Free Passage" number="21." fa="Fantini, Smith, 1981." length="18m" grade="23" extra="">Start 4m right of Pelvic Thrust and climb the face/crack to a ledge. Step left to the hand/finger crack.</climb> <climb id="34" name="Offal" number="22." fa="McHugh, McMahon, 1972." length="18m" grade="20" extra="">The blood spilling off-width.</climb> <climb id="298" stars="**" extra="" number="23." name="Tripe" length="18m" grade="16" fa="Fox and others 200?">Start in the corner 5m right of Offal. Climb the corner to stand on the pillar and clip the first bolt. Climb the face before traversing left to the arete. 4 bolts and DBB.</climb> <climb id="35" name="Offal Diagonal" number="24." fa="Parsons, 1982." length="18m" grade="22" extra="">Start up Offal and then at the ledge go out the right diagonal crack.</climb> <climb id="36" name="Blockbuster Traverse" number="25." fa="Narkowicz, McMahon, 1985." length="25m" grade="23" extra="">Start from the ledge on Blue No More across Pelvic Thrust and Free Passage then finishing up Offal Diagonal. Initially climbed with a piton knocked in with a blockbuster.</climb> <climb id="37" name="Knacker" number="26." fa="McMahon (solo), 1972." length="16m" grade="13" extra="">The chimney around the corner formed by the back of the Pelvic Thrust block.</climb> <climb id="38" name="Morte D'Arthur" number="27." fa="McMahon, Madden, Smith, 1981." length="15m" grade="15" extra="">The next chimney.</climb> <climb id="39" name="Saved" number="28." fa="Narkowicz, Focken, 1985." length="14m" grade="23" extra="" stars=" ** ">Thin face climbing with very little gear. Next to the descent track 5m uphill from Morte D'Arthur.</climb> <text class="text" id="40">Below Offal Buttress there is a series of small faces with potential for some new (but "diminutive") routes.</text> <text class="heading3" id="41">Shimmy Sheister Buttress</text> <text class="text" id="42">Access- see map. Just upstream and downhill from Trackside. Easy to get to by abseiling from the eye-bolts.</text> <climb id="43" name="Long Ago And Best Forgotten" number="29." fa="McMahon, solo, 1976." length="8m" grade="20" extra="">The thin crack on the left.</climb> <climb id="44" name="Looking for the Heart" number="30." fa="Parsons, Best, 1976." length="10m" grade="18" extra="">Flaring groove and crack.</climb> <climb id="45" name="Waiting for Bobo" number="31." fa="Fisher, Selby, 1996." length="10m" grade="23" extra="3Þ" stars="**">And we still are. 3 eye-bolts.</climb> <climb id="46" name="Pool Shooting Shimmy Sheister" number="32." fa="Thomas, 1980." length="9m" grade="19" extra="">Finger crack on the right.</climb> <text class="heading3" id="47">Nighthawks Buttress</text> <text class="text" id="48">Access- scramble downhill and upstream from Shimmy Sheister buttress or go uphill and downstream from the top of the Mick Loves Anne face. All roads lead to Rome.</text> <climb id="49" name="Rising Gorge" number="33." fa="Fisher, 1996." length="13m" grade="27" extra="4Þ" stars="">Another excellent job of undergrading by John who initially gave it 24. Line of 4 eye-bolts. DBB.</climb> <climb id="50" name="Nighthawks" number="34." fa="Thomas, McMahon, 1980" length="10m" grade="18" extra="" stars=" * ">Jamming up hand and fist crack on the front of the buttress. For the aficionados of the jam.</climb> <text class="heading3" id="51">Trench Foot Face</text> <text class="text" id="52">Access- Just downhill and slightly upstream from Nighthawks is a separate face</text> <climb id="53" name="Trench Foot" number="35." fa="Parsons, Schmidt, 1976." length="10m" grade="17" extra="" stars="">Lay away up thin crack to gain hand crack.</climb> <climb id="297" stars="*" extra="" number="36." name="The Inspector" length="10" grade="19" fa="Fox, Webb, Kearnes, 2019">The face with 5 U-bolts just right of Trench Foot. A hard start but maintains the interest for the whole distance. DBB</climb> <climb id="299" stars="*" extra="" number="37." name="The Constable" length="7m" grade="24" fa="Fox, Lethborg 2019">On the seperate pillar just right of The Inspector is a face with 3 U-bolts. DBB</climb> <climb id="55" name="A Man's Drink" number="38." fa="Smith (solo), 1981." length="8m" grade="15" extra="" stars="">The crack facing the river on the pillar of The Constable.</climb> <climb id="56" name="A Man's Second Drink" number="39." fa="Smith, 1981." length="8m" grade="17" extra="">5m around the corner from A Man's Drink is a line of thin flakes leading up to a hand crack.</climb> <text class="heading3" id="57">Mickey Loves Anne Face</text> <text class="text" id="58">Access- From half-way down the descent track on the upstream side of Offal buttress walk upstream for 50m to a small clump of she-oaks. Abseil from the DBB behind these to the base of the cliff, approximately 12m, which is recognisable by the painted pierced heart. Alternatively scramble upstream 50m from the base of Offal. Multiple bolt belays on top.</text> <climb id="59" name="The Rain in Spain" number="40." fa="Parsons, Shields, 1975." length="8m" grade="16" extra="">The left hand-crack 3m from Choking the Chicken.</climb> <climb id="60" name="Choking the Chicken" number="41." fa="Fisher, Fox, 1995." length="10m" grade="22" extra="3Þ" stars="**">Or 24 for the vertically challenged. The arete with 3 eye-bolts. DBB</climb> <climb id="61" name="Pickpocket" number="42." fa="Ellenburger, K.Smith, 1975. Fantini, Smith, McMahon, 1981." length="10m" grade="20" extra="" stars=" * ">Corner and thin crack 2m right of Choking The Chicken.</climb> <climb id="62" name="Small Change" number="43." fa="Smith, McMahon, 1981." length="10m" grade="17" extra="">Up crack, bulges and blocks.</climb> <climb id="63" name="Crab Spread" number="44." fa="Fife, Narkowicz, 1982." length="10m" grade="20" extra="" stars=" * ">Up face to eye-bolt and rusty old piton then to crack above.</climb> <climb id="64" name="Fruit of the Spirit" number="45." fa="Narkowicz, 1982." length="12m" grade="22" extra="" stars=" * ">The crack 3m left of Dead Zone up to a hollow block then 2 eye-bolts on the face above.</climb> <climb id="65" name="Dead Zone" number="46." fa="Fantini, Smith,1981." length="12m" grade="20" extra="" stars=" *** ">Thin crack starting from sloping ledge. The big jug finish and associated large block at the top of dead zone no longer exist. Be aware the finishing moves pulling over the top may now be significantly harder.</climb> <text class="heading3" id="66">Saturday Night Buttress</text> <text class="text" id="67">Access- see map. Abseil in, bolt belays on top.</text> <climb id="68" name="Change My Tune" number="47." fa="McMahon, Thomas, 1980." length="10m" grade="17" extra="" stars=" * ">The main hand crack on the left.</climb> <climb id="69" name="Stopping on the Red" number="48." fa="Ellenburger, K.Smith, 1975." length="10m" grade="16" extra="" stars=" * ">2m right of Change My Tune.</climb> <climb id="70" name="Zoo's Face" number="49." fa="Thomas (solo), 1981." length="10m" grade="18" extra="">The face 2m right of Stopping On The Red. No gear worth stopping for.</climb> <climb id="71" name="Cue Ball Head" number="50." fa="McMahon, Thomas,1980. " length="10m" grade="14" extra="">The broken crack line 4m upstream of Stopping On The Red.</climb> <text id="295">The face right of Cue Ball Head is another top rope route at about 17.</text> <climb id="72" name="Burgundy Sky" number="51." fa="McMahon, Thomas, 1980." length="8m" grade="10" extra="">The next corner.</climb> <climb id="73" name="Fly By Night" number="52." fa="Thomas, Keenan, McMahon, 1981." length="8m" grade="17" extra="">The last climb before the off-width corner. Up corner to block at the top. Harder than it looks.</climb> <text class="heading3" id="74">Foam Pinnacle</text> <text class="text" id="75">Access- Walk 30m up the ramp from Deadzone on the Mickey Loves Anne face. It's most use is for finding the access to Riverside Buttress</text> <climb id="76" name="Foam" number="53." fa="McMahon (solo), 1980." length="10m" grade="14" extra="">The crack.</climb> <text class="heading3" id="77">Riverside Buttress</text> <text class="text" id="78">Access- Abseil in from the trees 10m below the Foam Pinnacle or scramble down the upstream side of Foam Pinnacle, best done at low tide.</text> <climb id="79" name="Innocent Bystander" number="54." fa="Smart, McMahon, 1982." length="10m" grade="23" extra="" stars="***">Thin crack up to steel spike. One of the best finger cracks in the gorge.</climb> <climb id="80" name="Bad Mouth" number="55." fa="McMahon, Smart, 1982." length="10m" grade="16" extra="">The off-width on the arete.</climb> <climb id="303" stars="" extra="R" number="56." name="Perimeter Line" length="10m" grade="19" fa="P. Munnings, H.Mulligan, J. Buttler">Climbs the underclings to thin crack to spikes. Finishes up the double arete to the top with no protection for the last 4m</climb> <climb id="81" name="Fugitive" number="57." fa="McMahon, Smart, 1982." length="10m" grade="19" extra="">Corner 5m upstream from Bad Mouth.</climb> <text class="heading3" id="82">Pygmy Possum Buttress</text> <text class="text" id="83">Access- From Foam Pinnacle walk upstream and uphill for 40m or alternatively drop down from the upstream end of Saturday Night Buttress. The climbs on Pygmy Possum Buttress are almost 30m long and are some of the longest climbs in the Gorge.</text> <climb id="84" name="Thylacine" number="58." fa="McMahon, Mohler, 1981." length="27m" grade="16" extra="" stars="">Left hand off-width to hand crack then on to the face of the top pillar.</climb> <climb id="85" name="Pygmy Possum" number="59." fa="McHugh, McMahon, 1972." length="25m" grade="18" extra="" stars=" ** ">A difficult start up thin crack and corner before easing to hand jams. Continue up crack above.</climb> <climb id="86" name="Schmidt Variant" number="60." fa="Schmidt." length="25m" grade="16" extra="">Starts up Thylacine and then traverses on to Pygmy Possum after the off-width.</climb> <climb id="87" name="French Ethics" number="61." fa="Fox, Bissett, French, 1997." length="10m" grade="18" extra="" stars=" *** ">Scramble up the gully on the right of the Pygmy Possum Buttress to where it is possible to climb the arete/pillar with 3 eye-bolts and some natural gear (oh no) to a DBB.</climb> <text class="heading3" id="88">On The Way Pinnacles</text> <text class="text" id="89">Access- Directly below the zig-zag track lookout and above Pygmy Possum Buttress on the uphill side of the track to Saturday Night Buttress.</text> <climb id="302" stars="" extra="" number="62." name="Invertebrat" length="6m" grade="20" fa="Leslie, 1995">Thin crack with a slight overhang at the start. Begin with finger pocket and through the crack to finish.</climb> <climb id="301" stars="" extra="" number="63." name="Hope of Deliverance" length="6m" grade="16" fa="Munnings (solo), 2020.">Nice hand to fist crack with large block obstructing the top. Traverse right below block to top out.</climb> <climb id="90" name="On the Way" number="64." fa="McMahon (solo), 1980." length="8m" grade="15" extra="">Pleasant climbing up the crack behind the tree.</climb> <climb id="300" stars="**" extra="" number="65." name="Wings Over America" length="9m" grade="22" fa="Munnings (Solo), 2020.">The main face of the buttress with 2 fixed hangers. Follows small rails and pockets at the bottom to large laybacks and slopers at the top. Bring 2 extended draws for DBB.</climb> <text class="heading3" id="91">Aqua-Slick Buttress</text> <text class="text" id="92">Right of Pygmy Possum Buttress and on the same level. Abseil in from DBB above.</text> <climb id="93" name="Game of Chance" number="66." fa="McMahon, Mohler, 1981." length="12m" grade="19" extra="">Start in cleft on the far left up to overlap and crack above.</climb> <climb id="94" name="Sunflower" number="67." fa="Ng, McOwan, 1990." length="12m" grade="22" extra="3Þ" stars="*">Climb the arête 1m left of Aqua-Slick with 3 U-bolts. Good climbing though the crux is avoiding stepping into Aqua-Slick. DBB.</climb> <climb id="95" name="Aqua-Slick" number="68." fa="McMahon, Smith, 1980." length="10m" grade="17" extra="">The hand crack just 1m right of Suflower.</climb> <climb id="96" name="Down to the Canvas" number="69." fa="McMahon, Smith, 1980." length="10m" grade="9" extra="" stars="">The right-hand face and crack with a hard start.</climb> <climb id="97" name="McDonalds is Good!" number="70." fa="Bissett, 1998." length="10m" grade="22" extra="3Þ" stars="">Line of 3 bolts right of Down to the Canvas.</climb> <text class="heading3" id="98">Feltham Buttress</text> <text class="text" id="99">Access- see map. One of the most popular buttresses in the Gorge because of it's easy access and great variety of climbs.</text> <climb id="100" name="Deal an Ace" number="71." fa="Parsons, 1976." length="10m" grade="17" extra="">The first crack on the downstream end of the buttress.</climb> <climb id="101" name="The Night Dweller" number="72." fa="Ng, 1989." length="12m" grade="21" extra="" stars="">Face climbing up the left-hand line of 2 U-bolts.</climb> <climb id="102" name="Crossing Siva" number="73." fa="Fox, DeCesare, 2002." length="15m" grade="24" extra="">Climb to the 2nd bolt of The Night Dweller and traverse right at that level crossing Third Rising at the 2nd bolt and then across to Feltham. Easier for the tall and easier going right to left.</climb> <climb id="103" name="Out of Date Route" number="74." fa="Parsons (solo), 1982." length="14m" grade="19" extra="" stars="">The face left of Westham with 3 U-bolts. Starts 2m left of Westham. A variant start on the block another 2m left goes at 17.</climb> <climb id="104" name="Westham" number="75." fa="McMahon, Brooks High School, 1972 (Must have been crowded - Ed)." length="14m" grade="14" extra="" stars="**">The classic corner/crack system.</climb> <climb id="105" name="Third Rising" number="76." fa="Ng, 1990." length="12m" grade="24" extra="" stars="**">The orange face with 2 bolts and then exiting up the finger crack on the right.</climb> <climb id="106" name="Feinian" number="77." fa="Ng, 1989." length="12m" grade="22" extra="" stars="*">Climb the arête right of Third Rising using the same bolts and finish as for that climb, but somehow avoiding Lingham all the way.</climb> <climb id="107" name="Lingham" number="78." fa="McHugh, Schmidt, 1972." length="14m" grade="18" extra="" stars=" *** ">Classic hand jamming.</climb> <climb id="108" name="Venom" number="79." fa="McMahon, 1988." length="14m" grade="24" extra="" stars="">Wide arête 2m right of Lingham, this time avoiding going into either Lingham or Feltham!</climb> <climb id="109" name="Feltham" number="80." fa="McMahon, Schmidt, 1972." length="14m" grade="16" extra="" stars=" * ">Up right trending ramp to block then back left to hand crack.</climb> <climb id="110" name="Smart Pig" number="81." fa="McMahon, Mason, 1973." length="12m" grade="14" extra="">Just 4m around the corner from F.</climb> <climb id="111" name="Pork Hunt" number="82." fa="McMahon, Mason, 1973." length="12m" grade="15" extra="">Starts 2m right of Smart Pig up broken corner and off-width.</climb> <climb id="112" name="Cunningham" number="83." fa="McMahon, Brooks High School, 1972." length="10m" grade="15" extra="">3m right of Pork Hunt go up crack through small roof.</climb> <text class="text" id="113">The next few routes are on the upstream face of the buttress</text> <climb id="114" name="Rasher" number="84." fa="Narkowicz, McMahon, 1981." length="8m" grade="19" extra="">The thin crack past the rusty old piton.</climb> <climb id="115" name="Dog Poisoner" number="85." fa="I.Thomas, McMahon, 1981." length="8m" grade="13" extra="">Take the left hand crack.</climb> <climb id="116" name="Jelly Boy" number="86." fa="Kearnes, Fox, Decesare, 1998." length="12m" grade="18" extra="" stars=" ** ">Climb face to single U-bolt, then up to flake and on to top. First bolt can be easily clipped from right before starting to avoid awkward fall.</climb> <climb id="117" name="Cunningham" number="87." fa="McMahon and Brooks High, 1972." length="10m" grade="13" extra="">5m right of Jelly boy. Climb up to overlap and up crack on the right.</climb> <climb id="118" name="Hamurabi" number="88." fa="McMahon, I.Thomas, 1981." length="8m" grade="16" extra="">The third of 3 cracks around the corner from Cunningham. Needs a clean.</climb> <climb id="119" name="Plummeting Jugs" number="89." fa="McMahon, Holmes, 1999." length="8m" grade="13" extra="">The last corner.</climb> <text class="text" id="120">Across the gully from Hamurabi is a small buttress with one climb.</text> <climb id="121" name="Solitary" number="90." fa="McMahon, I.Thomas, 1981." length="8m" grade="16" extra="">Thin corner with crack widening at the top.</climb> <text class="heading3" id="122">Porker Pinnacle</text> <text class="text" id="123">Access- The pinnacle at the base of Feltham. Abseil in from Feltham or scramble down on the downstream side.</text> <climb id="124" name="Brazen Serpent" number="91." fa="Ng, 1989." length="10m" grade="25" extra="3Þ" stars="***">A must for all! Arête with 3 eye-bolts to a DBB.</climb> <climb id="125" name="Porker" number="92." fa="McMahon, Smith, 1973." length="10m" grade="16" extra="">Up behind block and then up left.</climb> <climb id="126" name="Cutlet" number="93." fa="McMahon, Mason, 1973." length="10m" grade="8" extra="">Behind block and up right.</climb> <text class="heading3" id="127">Erza Buttress</text> <text class="text" id="128">Access- Abseil from Porker Pinnacle to the water line.</text> <climb id="129" name="Ezra" number="94." fa="McMahon, Mohler, 1982." length="10m" grade="18" extra="">Starts at the bulge and then up to finger crack.</climb> <climb id="130" name="Raze" number="95." fa="Mohler, McMahon, 1982." length="10m" grade="13" extra="">From hanging belay climb face and crack via steel bracket.</climb> <climb id="131" name="Raze Variant" number="96." fa="McMahon, 1982." length="10m" grade="18" extra="">Avoid the steel bracket by going right.</climb> <text class="heading3" id="132">Right Man Buttress</text> <text class="text" id="133">Access- See Map. Bolt belays.</text> <climb id="134" name="The Wrong Man" number="97." fa="Smith, Ling, McMahon, 1980." length="10m" grade="18" extra="" stars=" ** ">The first hand crack of the downstream end of the buttress. An excellent jamming excursion.</climb> <climb id="135" name="Roxanne" number="98." fa="Ng, 90's." length="10m" grade="24" extra="">The face 1m right of the Wrong Man, up to an eye-bolt and then the thin crack.</climb> <climb id="136" name="Up the Wall" number="99." fa="Fisher, 1996." length="9m" grade="25" extra="">Thin face with 2 eye-bolts then exit up crack on left. Can be done starting up the chimney on the right and then moving left but take off two grades.</climb> <climb id="137" name="Touch and Go" number="100." fa="Fantini, Smith, Cameron, 1981." length="9m" grade="22" extra="" stars=" ** ">First finger crack on the next face.</climb> <climb id="138" name="Cold Chat" number="101." fa="Fantini, Smith, 1981." length="9m" grade="20" extra="">The next crack starting as a finger crack then opening up to a hand crack.</climb> <climb id="139" name="Left Hand Man" number="102." fa="I.Thomas, McMahon, 1980." length="10m" grade="19" extra="">Starts up corner with thin crack to ledge and then easier crack.</climb> <climb id="140" name="The Right Man" number="103." fa="I.Thomas, McMahon, Warren, 1980." length="11m" grade="19" extra="">The right line, the last of the 4 cracks.</climb> <climb id="141" name="Ng Man" number="104." fa="Ng, 1988." length="12m" grade="24" extra="" stars="**">Arête with 3FH and small wires.</climb> <climb id="142" name="In-between Man" number="105." fa="Parsons, 1982." length="10m" grade="21" extra="">Corner/thin crack 2m right of Ng Man.</climb> <climb id="143" name="Hot Gossip" number="106." fa="Smith, Fantini, 1982." length="10m" grade="19" extra="" stars=" * ">Corner/finger crack 2m right of In-between Man.</climb> <climb id="144" name="Godfather" number="107." fa="Ng, 1990." length="11m" grade="24" extra="" stars="***">Blunt arête with 4FH. Go directly up</climb> <climb id="145" name="Last Year's Man" number="108." fa="Smith, Fantini, 1981." length="11m" grade="16" extra="">Up awkward corner to the large hand crack.</climb> <text class="heading3" id="147">Rhubarb Buttress</text> <text class="text" id="148">Access- Go down from the upstream end of Right Man Buttress and abseil in, or scramble across from Porker Pinnacle.</text> <climb id="149" name="Getting Dark, Too Dark to See" number="109." fa="McMahon, Narkowicz, 1982." length="8m" grade="20" extra="">The finger crack on the left hand end of the buttress which opens to a small corner and hand jamming.</climb> <climb id="150" name="By the Light of Karabiners" number="110." fa="Narkowicz, McMahon, Nougher, 1982." length="9m" grade="19" extra="">Corner and crack 3m right of Getting Dark...</climb> <climb id="151" name="Straight Arm" number="111." fa="McMahon, Narkowicz, 1982." length="10m" grade="15" extra="" stars="">The hand crack near the arête.</climb> <climb id="152" name="Dog Leg" number="112." fa="McMahon, Smith, 1981." length="10m" grade="15" extra="">Same start as Straight Arm then move right at 1/3 height to the next crack.</climb> <climb id="153" name="Diagonal" number="113." fa="Smith, McMahon, 1981." length="11m" grade="18" extra="">Go up the overhanging flake to right diagonal crack and along it to the twin cracks.</climb> <climb id="154" name="Rhubarb" number="114." fa="Parsons, Woodruff, 1977." length="10m" grade="14" extra="" stars=" ** ">The main corner and crack.</climb> <climb id="155" name="Nowt' Breakfast" number="115." fa="Narkowicz, Maddock, 1982." length="9m" grade="23" extra="" stars=" * ">Up thin crack 3m right of Rhubarb.</climb> <climb id="156" name="The Groove" number="116." fa="McMahon, Smith, 1981." length="9m" grade="18" extra="">Left slanting off-width.</climb> <text class="heading3" id="157">Lady Midgnight - Upper Tier</text> <text class="text" id="158">Access- Upstream and downhill from Right Man. The first 3 "climbs" are barely 5m long however the rest can aspire to be grown up climbs.</text> <climb id="159" name="Devil's Food" number="117." fa="McMahon, Smith, 1980." length="5m" grade="15" extra="">A very short finger to hand crack - almost "diminutive".</climb> <climb id="160" name="Skylight" number="118." fa="McMahon, 1980." length="6m" grade="16" extra="">Off-width with a dog-leg at 1/3 height.</climb> <climb id="161" name="Veiled Flesh" number="119." fa="Smith, McMahon, 1980." length="6m" grade="17" extra="">Finger crack 4m upstream of Skylight.</climb> <climb id="162" name="The Stain" number="120." fa="McMahon, others, 1980." length="7m" grade="14" extra="">Short corner but long compared to the previous 3.</climb> <climb id="163" name="Scottish Fire" number="121." fa="Ng, McOwen 1990." length="7m" grade="24" extra="">Step right from ledge onto arete and fixed hanger then head up. Originally done direct but a crucial hold has broken off and still waits for an ascent this way.</climb> <climb id="164" name="Lady Midnight" number="122." fa="Parsons, Woodruff, 1977." length="10m" grade="17" extra="" stars=" ** ">10m right of Fingal Fling. Up short corner and flake to move left to hand crack.</climb> <text class="heading3" id="165">Lady Midnight - Lower Tier</text> <text class="text" id="166">Access - abseil from the tree below Lady Midnight.</text> <climb id="167" name="Consultation" number="123." fa="Parsons, 1982." length="10m" grade="22" extra="">Thin face and crack climbing on face 3m left of Joan Of Arc.</climb> <climb id="168" name="Joan of Arc" number="124." fa="Thomas, Smith, McMahon, 1980." length="10m" grade="21" extra="" stars=" ** ">The crack you just abseiled past. Climb thin crack to gain left hand edge of cave then move back left to hand crack.</climb> <climb id="169" name="Arc of Joan" number="125." fa="McOwan, Wells, 1989." length="10m" grade="23" extra="">Climb the face right of Joan of Arc past a FH up to the cave and then up finger crack.</climb> <climb id="170" name="Once Again" number="126." fa="Smith, McMahon, 1980." length="10m" grade="18" extra="">Traverse to the second corner upstream of Arc of Joan, preferably when the tide is out, then climb the hand crack.</climb> <climb id="171" name="Italian Club" number="127." fa="Mohler, McMahon, 1982." length="10m" grade="17" extra="">Abseil from 10m upstream of Lady Midnight to the water for a hanging belay. Climb the crack.</climb> <climb id="172" name="Italian Way" number="128." fa="McMahon, Mohler, 1982." length="10m" grade="17" extra="">About 10m upstream of Italian Club. Climb up and left to the overhang and then up crack.</climb> <climb id="173" name="Whore of Babylon" number="129." fa="McMahon, Thomas, 1980." length="10m" grade="17" extra="">Best approached from the upstream side or even The Gully. Start at the water level go up the slab to the small roof and jam crack.</climb> <text id="306" class="heading3">Turrets Buttress</text> <text id="307" class="text">About 30m further upstream from Rightman. Directly below the huge cairn/fireplace. Are some short pinnacles with a collection of aretes, faces and chimneys.</text> <climb id="308" stars="" extra="1Þ " number="130." name="Armour of Light" length="7m" grade="23" fa="P. Munnings">the pinnacle furthest downstream. Climb the small crack and arete via one bolt, DBB</climb> <climb id="309" stars="" extra="" number="131." name="Portcullis" length="7m" grade="10" fa="P. Munnings (solo)">The left of the two major chimneys.</climb> <text id="310" class="heading3">Bonanza Buttress</text> <text id="311" class="text">Walk above Rightman until the large Cairn is reached, continue upstream along track to Fatman for 20m and the Cliff will be visible on the upstream side of the track.</text> <climb id="146" name="Bohnanza" number="132." fa="N Selby 9 Aug 2003." length="10m" grade="21" extra="5Þ" stars="**">This climb is on a new cliff just past Right Man buttress on the way to Fat Man buttress. Left leaning line/crack with 5 bolts to rap point. Stick clip the first bolt.</climb> <climb id="312" stars="" extra="" number="133." name="Plastic Fantastic Lover" length="9m" grade="14" fa="P. Munnings (solo)">10m upstream from Bonanza is a thin crack widening to offwidth. A perfect beginner trad climb</climb> <text class="heading3" id="174">Fatman Buttress - Upper Tier</text> <text id="296" class="text">There is a DBB at the top of Fatman Pinnacle. Abseil from here takes you to the base of Thin Fiend, then continue to abseil past this to the base of Crucifix's DBB</text> <text class="text" id="175">Access- see map</text> <climb id="176" name="To the Elbow" number="134." fa="McMahon, Smith 1972." length="10m" grade="16" extra="">Climb the off-width behind the pillar of Thin Fiend on the downstream side.</climb> <climb id="177" name="Thin Fiend" number="135." fa="Ng, 1991." length="10m" grade="20" extra="4Þ" stars="***">Line of 4 U-bolts up the isolated downstream pinnacle.</climb> <climb id="178" name="Fatman" number="136." fa="McMahon, McHugh, 1972." length="10m" grade="10" extra="">The chimney behind the isolated Fatman Pinnacle 5m upstream from the Thin Friend pillar.</climb> <climb id="179" name="Crucifix" number="137." fa="Ng, 1991." length="10m" grade="19" extra="3Þ" stars="***">Abseil down to the face of the Fatman Pinnacle where there is a DBB. Climb up past 3FH and friend placements in the horizontal breaks. DBB on top of the pinnacle</climb> <climb id="180" name="Thin Man" number="138." fa="McMahon, McHugh, 1972." length="10m" grade="13" extra="">On the opposite side of Skinny Girl climb the easy face.</climb> <climb id="181" name="Prow" number="139." fa="Smart and McMahon." length="10m" grade="18" extra="" stars=" * ">Hard start then easily up on the left of the line of carrots.</climb> <text class="text" id="182">The bolts are the result of an Ng project which was to go on the right but is too contrived to bother with.</text> <climb id="183" name="Skinny Girl" number="140." fa="Smith, McMahon." length="10m" grade="18" extra="">Up through bulge and hand crack to the split between the pillar and the buttress proper.</climb> <climb id="184" name="Acoustics and Meat" number="141." fa="Narkowicz, McMahon." length="8m" grade="18" extra="">The off-width through the small roof 10m uphill and right of Skinny Girl.</climb> <climb id="185" name="Getting On With the Neighbours" number="142." fa="Mohler, Madden, 1981." length="8m" grade="13" extra="">The corner 3m up hill from Acoustics & Meat.</climb> <climb id="313" stars="**" extra="" number="143." name="Little Boy" length="11m" grade="22" fa="N. Morgan, S. Postle, 2022.">Curving line R of GOWTN corner. Stick clip first bolt (or place some small cams in the horizontal break), into cruxy moves laying/compressing off L arete to get established on face. Continue slightly R up slab to finish. Avoid cranking outwards on vertical pillar at base of route as it does seem to wobble. DBB</climb> <climb id="314" stars="*" extra="" number="144." name="Chunky But Funky" length="10m" grade="22" fa="S. Postle, N. Morgan, 2022.">RH variant start for Little Boy. Up double aretes, linking in with previous climb at its 3rd bolt (avoid bridging off RH blocks for the full value). Straight up slab to finish. Take some large cams for the start. DBB</climb> <climb id="186" name="Pot Belly" number="145." fa="Smith, McMahon, 1981." length="8m" grade="15" extra="">Off-width climbing saved by chock-stones.</climb> <climb id="187" name="Not Out" number="146." fa="McMahon, Madden, 1981." length="10m" grade="16" extra="">The thin corner 3m right of Pot Belly.</climb> <climb id="188" name="When the Fat Lady Sings" number="147." fa="Fox, Munro, Kearnes, 1996." length="10m" grade="25" extra="3Þ" stars="**">The arête/pillar with 3 eye-bolts. DBB.</climb> <climb id="189" name="The Oil" number="148." fa="Madden, Mohler, 1981." length="10m" grade="7" extra="">The chimney at the back of When the Fat Lady Sings.</climb> <climb id="190" name="Purveyor of Flesh" number="149." fa="McMahon, Smith, 1981." length="9m" grade="14" extra="">Second last corner of the buttress 10m uphill from When the Fat Lady Sings.</climb> <climb id="191" name="Price of Meat" number="150." fa="McMahon, Smith, 1981." length="9m" grade="15" extra="">The last corner.</climb> <climb id="192" name="Start Running" number="151." fa="Ng, 1991." length="7m" grade="23" extra="2Þ" stars="">The 2 carrots 3m left of You're Fat! Starting at the same level step left on to arete. Originally conceived with a direct independent start but still waiting.</climb> <climb id="193" name="You're Fat!" number="152." fa="DeCesare, Fox, 1996." length="7m" grade="18" extra="2Þ" stars="">Climb the face with 2 bolts on the end of the buttress.</climb> <text class="heading3" id="194">Fatman Buttress - Lower Tier</text> <text class="text" id="195">Access by abseiling from the tree below Skinny Girl.</text> <climb id="196" name="Gerry's River Traverse" number="153." fa="Narkowicz (solo), 1982." grade="20" extra="">Starts somewhere down river of Fatman Buttress and goes for about 100m. "The landing is soft and rarely more than 1m away" to quote someone.</climb> <climb id="197" name="Fear and Frothing" number="154." fa="Narkowicz, McMahon, 1982." length="12m" grade="21" extra="Þ" stars="*">The thin cracks past an eye-bolt to the steel spike then traverse left to the arête and another eye-bolt.</climb> <climb id="198" name="Cantilever Corner" number="155." fa="McMahon, Smart, 1982." length="12m" grade="18" extra="">Corner and face 3m right of Fear and Frothing.</climb> <climb id="199" name="Montefeltro" number="156." fa="McMahon, Narkowicz, 1982." length="10m" grade="19" extra="">Flaring crack 4m upstream of Cantilever Corner.</climb> <climb id="200" name="Urbino" number="157." fa="McMahon, Fantini, 1980." length="10m" grade="17" extra="">Uphill and upstream of the last climb is a separate pillar split by a crack.</climb> <text class="heading3" id="201">Wonders of the Flesh Buttress</text> <text class="text" id="202">This buttress is upstream and on the same level as the top of the Fatman Buttress, directly above The Gully.</text> <climb id="203" name="Third Knuckle" number="158." fa="McMahon, Smith, 1981." length="9m" grade="17" extra="">Hand crack on the left.</climb> <climb id="204" name="Sapient Sutler" number="159." fa="Parsons et al, 1976." length="9m" grade="16" extra="">Left hand line on the right hand side of the buttress.</climb> <climb id="205" name="Polyphiloprogenitive" number="160." fa="Smith, McMahon, 1981." length="9m" grade="16" extra="">Corner right of Sapient Sutler to join it at the off-width.</climb> <climb id="206" name="Fish Fingered Choir Girl" number="161." fa="Dennis Kearnes, Michael Fox, 3 Nov 2007." length="12m" grade="19" extra="4Þ" stars="" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="204" guide.action="submit">A couple of metres left of Noodle Armed Choir Boy. Climb the face, 4 fixed hangers, take a wire for the top moves if you want extra pro. DBB at the top.</climb> <climb id="207" name="Noodle Armed Choir Boy" number="162." fa="Bissett, 1998." length="12m" grade="18" extra="">On face that faces upstream overlooking The Gully. Walk downhill and then upstream from You're Fat and abseil to large ledge from DBB on LPFY! Climb face corner past two U-bolts, then natural gear.</climb> <climb id="208" name="Lesbo Pussy Feast, Yehah!!" number="163." fa="Bissett, 1998" length="12m" grade="25" extra="Þ" stars="**">The line 4m right of NACB. Climb past two U-bolts (double ropes may be better, but clips are good) into corner, place a cam and go up.</climb> <text class="heading3" id="209">The Gully</text> <text class="text" id="210">Access- requires a 30m abseil from the double bolt belay, next to small tree below the Wonders of the Flesh Buttress.</text> <climb id="211" name="Lutzen" number="164." fa="Fantini, McMahon, 1981." length="25m" grade="21" extra="">Start on the downstream side of the gully. 1) Climb up the thin line to the black face, then continue to a grassy ledge. 2) Climb up the obvious left crack.</climb> <climb id="212" name="Eyalu" number="165." fa="McMahon, Duhig, 1980." length="27m" grade="18" extra="" stars=" *** ">The main crack. Can be split at the grassy ledge.</climb> <climb id="213" name="The Gully Route" number="166." fa=" Talbot, K.Smith, 1975." length="27m" grade="11" extra="" stars="">What other description do you need?</climb> <climb id="315" stars="***" extra="" number="167." name="Odyssey" length="22m" grade="20" fa="Hannah Mulligan & Patrick Munnings 2022">One of the best trad routes on the Sunny Side! The prominent crack splitting the arete on the upstream face of the gully. Trends left into gully and traverses right using jugs through rooflet, finishing up crack to belay ledge. DBB</climb> <climb id="316" stars="**" extra="R" number="168." name="Vindaloo" length="20m" grade="24" fa="Patrick Munnings & Hannah Mulligan 2022">If you like your curries spicy and your trad routes the same, this one is for you. Climbs the twin seams left of Bautzen, without using the blocks or crack of Bautzen. The crux is the sparsely protected moves to the first ledge. Continue up seams with better gear and easier moves to finish up V groove. DBB as for Bautzen</climb> <climb id="214" name="Bautlen" number="169." fa="McMahon, Ling, 1982." length="20m" grade="19" extra="" stars="">On the upstream side of the gully. Up blank corner past bolt, through small roof and up crack.</climb> <text class="heading3" id="215">Mars Wall</text> <text class="text" id="216">Access- upstream from the gully. Abseil in from 2 bolts above Almost Mars.</text> <climb id="217" name="Chardonnay Man" number="170." fa="Bissett, Fox, 1997" length="10m" grade="21" extra="3Þ" stars="***">The arête left of Mars Wall proper. 3 bolts to a DBB.</climb> <climb id="218" name="Almost Mars" number="171." fa="Smart, McMahon, 1982." length="12m" grade="22" extra="" stars="">Thin crack and face climbing 1m left of Mars.</climb> <climb id="219" name="Mars" number="172." fa="Thomas, Smith, McMahon 1981." length="12m" grade="18" extra="">The crack.</climb> <climb id="220" name="Serenity Now!!" number="173." fa="Bissett, 1998." length="16m" grade="21" extra="6Þ" stars="***">In the gully right of Mars Wall is a line of 6 U-bolts. This is it. DBB.</climb> <text class="heading3" id="221">Gabriel Gully</text> <text class="text" id="222">Access- above and to the right of Mars Wall is a gully, on the left is a very small buttress with the following routes. It can also be accessed from Gabriel.</text> <climb id="223" name="Fuseli" number="174." fa="McMahon, Ling, 1982." length="8m" grade="23" extra="">The blank corner to the crack and then exit left. Originally used a piton runner.</climb> <climb id="224" name="Incubus" number="175." fa="Ling, McMahon, 1982." length="9m" grade="16" extra="">Up crack to groove.</climb> <climb id="225" name="Sucubus" number="176." fa="McMahon, Ling, 1982." length="9m" grade="16" extra="">Hand crack.</climb> <text class="heading3" id="226">Gabriel Buttress</text> <text class="text" id="227">Access- either by hopping across the rocks when (the tide is out) opposite the table and chairs on the Shady Side, or follow the map. The first 3 routes are on the left uphill section of the cliff. Bolt belays on top of main cliff.</text> <climb id="228" name="Bolingbroke" number="177." fa="McMahon, Ling, 1982." length="20m" grade="22" extra="">The thin corner to horizontal break/roof. You can escape here by stepping across left to ledge or go left and continue up chimney for pitch 2.</climb> <climb id="229" name="Body Extraction" number="178." fa="Fox, Bissett, 1997." length="20m" grade="22" extra="" stars=" ** ">A better version of the above climb. Instead of escaping at break/roof, keep going up past a U-bolt, then some gear and ledges to more bolts.</climb> <climb id="230" name="Wad" number="179." fa="Narkowicz, McMahon, 1982." length="10m" grade="19" extra="">The corner/crack right of Bolingbroke.</climb> <climb id="231" name="Tree Root" number="180." fa="McHugh, McMahon, 1972." length="10m" grade="13" extra="">From top of Wad go up slabs to corner and right to groove.</climb> <text class="text" id="232">The next routes are on the bottom tier of the Gabriel Buttress facing directly onto the river.</text> <climb id="233" name="Bonking in Kombis" number="181." fa="Fox, Munro, Povey, 1995." length="10m" grade="23" extra="" stars="*">Arête and shallow corner on the downstream end. 2 eye-bolts and small cams. DBB.</climb> <text class="text" id="234">These next climbs finish at a DBB at the ledge.</text> <climb id="235" name="Gabriel" number="182." fa="McMahon, Burnett, Mallinson, 1973." length="12m" grade="17" extra="" stars=" * ">Twin crack/corner on the bottom left of the Gabriel Buttress.</climb> <climb id="236" name="Third Uncle" number="183." fa="Ng, 1989." length="12m" grade="25" extra="2Þ" stars="***">Arête with 2 fixed hangers.</climb> <climb id="237" name="Don't Look at the Mantelpiece When You Poke the Fire" number="184." fa="Deka, Ling, McMahon, Smith, 1980." length="12m" grade="19" extra="" stars=" ** ">Face and crack system right of Third Uncle.</climb> <text class="text" id="238">The next two climbs go from the ledge above Don't Look at the ....</text> <climb id="239" name="Cashel" number="185." fa="McMahon, Talbot, 1975." length="12m" grade="15" extra="">Climb up 3m and traverse upstream 10m from the DBB above Third Uncle. Climb the off-width crack with a FH on the right and a loose chockstone which faces downstream.</climb> <climb id="240" name="Lost in Space" number="186." fa="Parsons, Deka, 1981." length="14m" grade="21" extra="" stars=" ** ">10m upstream from the DBB and 3m right of Cashel is a small roof. Climb up this to a thin crack/corner system leading to an overlap and finger crack beyond.</climb> <text class="text" id="241">The following routes are back on the river level.</text> <climb id="242" name="Spike Route" number="187." fa="McMahon, Burnett, Mallinson, 1973." length="12m" grade="12" extra="" stars=" * ">Climb up past the obvious spike.</climb> <climb id="243" name="Lay Down" number="188." fa="McMahon, Burnett, 1973." length="12m" grade="13" extra="">The crack 3m right of the Spike Route.</climb> <climb id="244" name="Ornithologist" number="189." fa="Hamilton, Smith, 1981." length="26m" grade="15" extra="">Crack behind tree to ledge then up the next tier on the right to the chimney/off-width crack.</climb> <climb id="245" name="Mistake Flake" number="190." fa="Smith, Cameron, Deka, Hamilton, 1981." length="8m" grade="16" extra="">Flake 3m above the ground.</climb> <climb id="246" name="Loose Money, Juice Money" number="191." fa="Smith, McMahon, Cover, 1980." length="20m" grade="17" extra="" stars=" * ">Up main crack in the centre of the buttress to the top. It is possible to traverse left at the start of the off-width into another crack at about 18.</climb> <text class="text" id="247">The next climbs start on the second tier on the right hand side of the buttress</text> <climb id="248" name="Son of Man" number="192." fa="Narkowicz, Kearnes, Ng, 1985" length="12m" grade="20" extra="" stars=" ** ">Up left trending flake to arete, sparse protection but excellent climbing.</climb> <climb id="249" name="Hand in Glove" number="193." fa="Ng, 1990." length="10m" grade="21" extra="">Climb the large pillar 4m right of Son of Man, one carrot only and a cosmetic wire.</climb> <climb id="250" name="Chicken Shit Variant" number="194." fa="De Cesare, Jones Oct 2003." length="13m" grade="19" extra="" stars="">Climb Cowardice to the crack below the roof. Step left onto the face and crank the spaced face holds up and left past one fixed hanger to the #1 cam crack.</climb> <climb id="251" name="Cowardice" number="195." fa="Smith, Cover, 1980." length="13m" grade="16" extra="">Yellow corner on the right of the buttress. Classic climbing.</climb> <text class="heading3" id="252">Gabriel Amphitheatre</text> <text class="text" id="253">Access- up right of the main face of Gabriel Buttress</text> <climb id="254" name="Cacodaemon" number="196." fa="McMahon, 1973." length="10m" grade="19" extra="" stars="">Elegant climbing up clean corner and thin finger crack. DBB</climb> <climb id="255" name="Spiritual Warfare" number="197." fa="Narkowicz 2001." length="15m" grade="26" extra="5Þ" stars="*">The arête right of Cacodaemon. Climb Mendelt's Route to the first bolt and then move left to the arête past 4 more bolts to DBB. Difficult to avoid stepping onto MR at times but worthwhile if you can.</climb> <climb id="256" name="Mendelt's Route" number="198." fa="Mendelt Tillema, 1974." length="10m" grade="16" extra="" stars="">Off-width corner right of Spiritual Fire.</climb> <climb id="257" name="Prince Hamlet" number="199." fa="McMahon, Smith, 1982." length="10m" grade="23" extra="">Thin crack 1m right of Mendelt's Route. Originally done with a piton.</climb> <climb id="258" name="Cutting Corner" number="200." fa="McMahon, 1980." length="9m" grade="16" extra="">The next corner right.</climb> <climb id="259" name="Duke of York" number="201." fa="McMahon, McHugh, 1972." length="9m" grade="14" extra="">Up the twin cracks.</climb> <climb id="260" name="Expiation" number="202." fa="McMahon, Martin, Mohler, 1982." length="9m" grade="21" extra="">Up crack to flake clearing vegetation and dirt as you go.</climb> <text class="heading3" id="261">School Girl Pinnacles</text> <text class="text" id="262">About half way down to Gabriel Buttress from the top (or halfway to the zig-zag track from the bottom) is a Pinnacle with a few bolted lines on it. This is it. DBB on top.</text> <climb id="263" name="Hot For Teacher" number="203." fa="Bissett, French, 1997" length="10m" grade="14" extra="">On the down stream side of the pinnacle is an easy line to the top. Its really only worthwhile as a means to get to the top if you want to top-rope the other lines.</climb> <climb id="264" name="The Delightful Giggle of Schoolgirls" number="204." fa="Bissett, 1997." length="10m" grade="22" extra="Þ" stars="*">On the downhill face of the pinnacle. Follow the bolts. DBB.</climb> <climb id="265" name="Schoolgirl's Secret Pleasure Spot" number="205." fa="Fox, 1997." length="10m" grade="26" extra="4Þ" stars="***">The upstream line of 4 bolts. Start from the right then go straight up. DBB.</climb> <text class="text" id="266">Uphill and slightly right of the above routes is a slabby looking piece of rock. This is Six-pack Slab and the following two climbs are there.</text> <climb id="267" name="Max Factor" number="206." fa="Fox, Nicholls, 1997." length="10m" grade="22" extra="3Þ" stars="*">The left line of 3 bolts, past a hard start. DBB.</climb> <climb id="268" name="Six-Pack" number="207." fa="Nichols, Fox, 1997." length="10m" grade="22" extra="3Þ" stars="">"Cos it ain't no fuckin' slab", said the delusional first ascensionist. The right line of 3 bolts. DBB.</climb> <text class="heading3" id="269">Dent de Lion Pinnacles</text> <text class="text" id="270">About 50m upstream from Gabriel Buttress or where you cross the river when the tide is out are two separate pillars of rock. The downstream one being the taller and pointier of the two.</text> <climb id="271" name="Hot Tips From Bisso" number="208." fa="Fox and Bissett, 2001." length="8m" grade="24" extra="">The downstream pinnacle up past 2 bolts to the crack above and a DBB.</climb> <climb id="272" name="The Dum Arm" number="209." fa="Fox and Bissett 2001." length="9m" grade="24" extra="3Þ" stars="*">Down and right 10m from HTFB is a line of 3 bolts that go to a DBB.</climb> <text class="heading3" id="273">Tithog Pinnacle</text> <text class="text" id="274">Access- About 100m upstream from Gabriel Buttress, almost where you cross the river when the tide is in, is a small pinnacle almost hidden by the trees.</text> <climb id="275" name="Tithog" number="210." fa="McMahon, Mohler, 1982." length="8m" grade="16" extra="">The hand crack on the left hand side of the pinnacle.</climb> <climb id="276" name="Vision of Hope" number="211." fa="Narkowicz, 2001." length="8m" grade="23" extra="">Through the overhang right of Tithog past 2 bolts and a 1.5 cam to a DBB.</climb> <text class="heading3" id="277">Ling's Pinnacle</text> <text class="text" id="278">Access- 100m upstream from Tithog Pinnacle or opposite the Prince of Darkness.</text> <climb id="279" name="Ling's Slant" number="212." fa="Ling, Lamb, McMahon, 1982." length="10m" grade="19" extra="">Start up the crack facing the river then go right around the arête and into the slant.</climb> <climb id="280" name="The Plumb Line" number="213." fa="Narkowicz, 2001" length="8m" grade="22" extra="">The thin crack to the right of Ling's Slant with one bolt.</climb> <text class="heading3" id="281">Paradise Buttress</text> <text class="text" id="282">Another 50m upstream from Ling's Slant is the last passable piece of rock before the river bends around to the Tea Room Cliffs.</text> <climb id="283" name="Heavenly Prize" number="214." fa="Narkowicz, 2001" length="8m" grade="22" extra="Þ" stars="*">The left hand line of bolts to a DBB.</climb> <climb id="284" name="Paradise Road" number="215." fa="Narkowicz, 2001." length="8m" grade="23" extra="Þ" stars="">The right hand line of bolts. Add a grade if you feel vertically challenged and you're onsighting it. DBB.</climb> <text class="heading3" id="285">Tea Room Cliffs</text> <text class="text" id="286">Access- Directly opposite the Gorge Restaurant Tea Rooms look-out are two small cliffs, about 20m 1 is the most downstream of the 2 buttress.</text> <climb id="287" name="Boys On the Monkey Bars" number="216." fa="Fox, Munro, DeCesare, 1995." length="12m" grade="24" extra="3Þ" stars="***">Climb arête on separate pillar with 3 eye-bolts. DBB.</climb> <climb id="288" name="Masturbation" number="217." fa="Fox, Munro, 1996." length="9m" grade="23" extra="2Þ" stars="">It's not only wankers that do it. 2 eye-bolts around the corner from Boys On the Monkey Bars. Hard to avoid the block behind and awkward clips.</climb> <text class="text" id="289">and on Tea Room No 2 is ...</text> <climb id="290" name="Yellow Corner" number="218." fa="Thomas, Fantini, 1980." length="9m" grade="19" extra="">With a name like that who needs a description? The crack to a shallow yellow corner.</climb> <climb id="291" name="Passing the Time" number="219." fa="McMahon, Ogbourne, 1982." length="10m" grade="17" extra="">Off-width corner 3m right of Yellow Corner. Surprisingly good fun.</climb> <climb id="292" name="Peacock Walk" number="220." fa="McMahon, 1978." length="9m" grade="15" extra="" stars="">Up horizontal breaks and blocks 5m right of Passing the Time. A variant start 2m further right is also quite good.</climb> <climb id="293" name="Extreme Unction" number="221." fa="McMahon, Martin, Mohler, 1982." length="9m" grade="17" extra="">Around bulge to crack.</climb> <climb id="294" name="Robertson's Off-Width" number="222." fa="Robertson, 1978." length="9m" grade="17" extra="">Guess what?</climb> </guide> |