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<guide guidestars="*"><text class="heading1">Waverly Park</text><text
class="intro">Waverly Park on the eastern shore of Hobart provides some nice sandstone problems with easy access. The park contains four areas - Rosny Rocks, The Reservoir, Bellerive Boulder, and Clarence Crag.</text><image
src="Waverly Parkmap3.jpg"/><text
class="heading2">Rosny Rocks</text><text class="access"
new="false"
number="null.">Drive over the Tasman Bridge to Rosny. Just after you pass the shopping centre you will reach a roundabout. Turn left at this and continue past a couple sets of traffic lights, then turn right onto Quarry Road. Drive to the end of this road and park at the gate of Waverly Park. The boulders are visible up the hill on the left. Walk up the track for a few minutes and then turn left onto another track just before a large stump. This track goes pretty well straight to the boulders and takes about 5 minutes. Follow the line of boulders to the left to the obvious overhanging prow on the first topo. There are a few more easy problems on the aretes and slabs up to the left.</text><image
src="Waverly Parkrosny1.jpg"/><problem extra="(Stand)"
grade="V0" name=" " number="1."
stars=" ">Up slab</problem><problem
extra="(Highball, SDS)" grade="V3" name=" " number="2."
stars=" ">Sitstart at right side of overhang, up to slot then straight up</problem><problem
extra="(Highball, SDS)" grade="V?" name=" " number="3."
stars=" ">Start as for previous, out to chipped jug, then straight up</problem><problem
extra="(Highball, SDS)" grade="V?" name="Chipped" number="4."
stars=" ">The steepest section of the overhang is very hard on small holds. The landing is pretty bad though, so a top rope may be prudent as the hardest moves are at the top. The Jacksons have managed to do this problem without using the chipped holds as 'a worthy statement against the absolutely crap chipping effort'.</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V10" name="Carunga" number="5."
stars=" ">Start on the jug on the right side of black cave behind the steep prow. Traverse leftward on small pockets</problem><text
class="access">Just down to the right is a small cave</text><image
src="Waverly Parkrosny3.jpg"/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V4"
name=" " number="1."
stars=" ">Start in the cave on underclings and climb out</problem><text
class="access">The vertical wall to the right. The following problems all have lichenous topouts, brush them before climbing.</text><image
src="Waverly Parkrosny2.jpg"/><problem extra="(Highball, Stand)"
grade="V0" name=" " number="1."
stars=" ">Arete</problem><problem extra="(Highball, SDS)"
grade="V2?" name=" " number="2."
stars=" ">Up face to lichenous mantle</problem><problem
extra="(Highball, SDS)" grade="V1" name=" " number="3."
stars=" ">Juggy face to hairy topout</problem><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="V2" name=" " number="4."
stars=" ">Pockets on face 1m left of crack</problem><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name=" " number="5."
stars=" ">Crack</problem><text
class="access">The right hand side of the face</text><image
src="Waverly Parkrosny4.jpg"/><problem extra="(Stand)"
grade="V1" name=" " number="6."
stars=" ">Arete and face</problem><problem extra="(Stand)"
grade="V2" name=" " number="7."
stars=" ">Start at arete and traverse leftwards to finish up 1</problem><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" name=" " new="false"
number="8." stars="">Up face and capstone</problem><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name=" " number="9."
stars=" ">Go right up face</problem><text
class="access">Further down to the right are the first rocks you encounter when accessing the area. The landing is pretty bad.</text><image
src="Waverly Parkrosny5.jpg"/><problem extra="(Highball, Stand)"
grade="V1" name=" " number="1."
stars=" ">Up arete and face</problem><problem
extra="(Highball, Stand)" grade="V0" name=" " number="2."
stars=" ">
</problem><problem extra="(Stand)"
grade="V1" name=" " number="3."
stars=" ">Rightwards up face</problem><text
class="heading2">The Reservoir (aka Mornington Rocks)</text><text
class="text" new="false"
number="null.">These nice boulders are one of the best spots for after work bouldering in Hobart. They also stay reasonably warm on winter afternoons, but seep after heavy rain.
Follow the map and park where marked, at the gate off Aruma St. Walk up the road to the reservoir. Skirt around on the left and follow some dirt tracks to directly behind the reservoir. The top of the boulder is another 20 - 30 meters just before the hill drops off, facing down the hill towards the highway. The rock is a little sandy in places, but the access is very easy, so its worth a look.
Be careful of the rock here after rain - quite a few holds have broken off when they have been damp.</text><text
class="text">The small boulder to the left of the main face has a couple of short and very easy problems good for absolute beginners or kids.</text><text
class="heading3">The Left Side</text><image
src="Waverly Parkreservoir3.jpg"/><problem extra="(Stand)"
grade="V0" name="Mr Brown" number="1."
stars=" ">Left arete of face</problem><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="V?" name=" " number="2."
stars=" ">Project - start as for Mr Brown and traverse the whole crag rightwards to finish up Scorpions</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V1" name="Mr White" number="3."
stars="*">SDS and up the left side of the face to slopey top out</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V2/3" name="Mr Pink" number="4."
stars=" ">SDS and up centre of face to nasty slopey top out</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="Mr Blonde" number="5."
stars="*">Start at right side of face, up and slightly left to jug then straight up left side of groove to top out</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name=" " number="5a."
stars="**">Start as for Mr Blonde up to the jug, then traverse leftwards along the line of jugs, and finish up Mr Brown. A great warm up.</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V4" name=" " new="false" number="6."
stars="">Start as for Mr Blonde, but go right up seam then up right side of groove to desperate top out.</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V5" name="Early Minute" new="false"
number="7."
stars="">Start as for no. 6. but traverse rightwards on thing holds along lip to finish up Reservoir Dogs</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V5" name="Nice Guy Eddie" new="false"
number="8."
stars="*">Up diagonal crack from awkward sitstart. Probably hasn't been done without using the big flat hold on Reservoir Dogs. Harder now since some holds have broken.</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V7" name="Big Gay Al" new="false"
number="8a."
stars="">Start as for Nice Guy Eddie, at the start of the crack. Move up to side pull / underclings in crack then straight up using sandy pinch. Up to lip then exit up right.</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="Reservoir Dogs" number="9."
stars="*">Sit start on the slope and up</problem><text
class="heading3">The Right Side</text><image
src="Waverly Parkreservoir4.jpg"/><problem extra="(SDS)"
grade="V6" name="Dis-Abeled" new="false" number="1."
stars="**">SDS on the jug, climb straight up, avoiding the left hand diagonal. Can be done as a stand start at about V4</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name=" " number="2."
stars=" ">Project - sit start just right of the arete, up to lip then straight up line of slopey side pulls. Mega hard.</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V7" name=" " number="3."
stars=" ">Start as for Scorpions, traverse left and finish up Reservoir Dogs, may be easier in the cold</problem><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="V7" name=" " number="4."
stars=" ">Stand start using slopes on top of roof and go left to top out. A sit start project exists</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="Scorpions" number="5."
stars="*">SDS up rib and bridge up left corner to top. Don't reach right.</problem><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name=" " number="6."
stars=" ">Climb the slab and corner just to the right of Scorpions</problem><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name=" " number="7."
stars=" ">Up nose right of Scorpions</problem><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" name=" " number=" "
stars=" ">Left side of slab to the right no. 7</problem><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="V2" name=" " number=" "
stars=" ">Right side of slab, don't use crack</problem><text
class="heading2">Clarence Crag</text><text
class="intro">A new area that is development. On the same hill as the Reservoir, facing Clarence and Bellerive. Some nice sloper problems and highballs.</text><text
class="heading2">Bellerive Boulder</text><text
class="text">This area has a handful of good problems. It is on the hill facing Bellerive, and tends to be a bit wet and cold in winter. To get there park as for Rosny Rocks, in Carawa Street. Walk up the track to the top of the hill, then turn left on to a sandy track. Keep going straight ahead on the foot pad which ends up at the top of the boulder.</text><text
class="text" new="false"
number="null.">MGA94 (GDA94): 55G 0531523mE 5253606mN</text><image
src="Waverly Parkbb2.jpg"/><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V?"
name="The David Boon Memorial Traverse" number="1."
stars=" ">Project - from the far left of the boulder traverse L-R to finish up Joker's. Very hard past the arete.</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V4" name="Calcutta" number="2."
stars=" ">Sitstart at two pockets on the left hand edge of the boulder and up over bulge, going left to finish (going right is harder)</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V5/6" name="Bowling for Columbine"
number="3."
stars="**">Sitstart on good flat hold, right to double pockets and up to slopes on lip</problem><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="V2" name=" " number="4."
stars=" ">Mantle on big flat hold</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V4" name="Boonanza" new="false" number="5."
stars="*">Sitstart at arete and then traverse leftwards 5m to finish up no 3. You could keep going leftwards to the end, but the moves aren't all that good.</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V5/6" name="Gold" new="false" number="6."
stars="**">Up the arete, starting with bulge then on to sketchy slab</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="Joker's Jackpot" number="7."
stars=" ">Face and mantle 2m right of the arete. </problem><text
class="text">There are some more problems on the boulder to the right of the main one.</text><image
src="Waverly Parkbb3.jpg"/><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0"
name="Bellerive Beach" number=" "
stars=" ">Sandy jugs opposite Joker's Jackpot</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name=" " number="1."
stars=" ">Sitstart and up over bulge</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name=" " number="2."
stars=" ">
</problem><problem extra="(Stand)"
grade="VE" name=" " number="3." stars=" ">
</problem></guide>
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