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<guide guidestars="**"><text class="heading1">Coles Bay</text><text
class="intro">The climbing at Coles Bay offers some of the best in the state, on pure white granite boulders and cliffs. It is the ideal place to head in the winters when the weather is too wet or cold everywhere else. In summer it can get quite greasy but with a little hold preparation this does not inhibit the climbing and there is the added bonus of the crystal clear sea water to swim in.
</text><text
class="access">Coles Bay (on the Freycinet peninsula) is located midway down Tasmania's east coast. The township of Coles Bay is about 2-3 hours drive from Launceston or Hobart. The fastest way to get there from Hobart is to travel on the Tasman Highway through Sorell, then drive to a clearly marked turn off to Coles Bay about 20 minutes past Swansea. Drive through Coles Bay and take a left turn along the Sleepy Bay road, follow this until you reach the signposted turn off to Bluestone Bay (just before the Cape Tourville lighthouse comes into sight). This is a 4WD track but it is possible to get in using a 2WD without too much difficulty.
</text><text
class="access">Most of the bouldering has been done in the White Water Wall area, which is inside the Coles Bay National Park. You are required to pay park entry fees, if you are planning on staying more than a few days, it is worth getting a year pass to the National Park, worth about $18.
</text><text
class="intro">Most people camp at the end of the Bluestone Bay Road at the campground above Whitewater Wall. There is a toilet here but you need to provide your own water. Other camping facilities exist in Coles Bay and there are also a few hotels and houses available for rent. There are two shops, a bakery, and a service station in Coles Bay.
</text><text
class="intro">At present there are three developed bouldering areas, Harlequin Buttress, The Pharos and the Bain Marie.</text><image
src="coles_bay_final1.png" width="800"/><text
class="heading2">Sleepy Bay</text><text
class="text">There has been some bouldering done on the coast at Sleepy Bay, but the rock is not the best. To get to Sleepy Bay drive into the National Park and take the first left. Drive for a couple of minutes over the hill and park at the car park.</text><text
class="heading3">Sleepy Bay Roof</text><text
class="text">From the car park follow the walking track for 50m until you get to a hand rail with a gulch down below. Scramble down into the gulch to find this roof just above sea level. There is potential for 4-5 more problems on this roof.</text><image
src="Coles BaySleepBayRoof.jpg"/><problem extra="(SDS)"
grade="V3" name="Hardcore Soft Porn" number="1."
stars="*">Sitstart on good holds under roof and climb out</problem><text
class="heading3">Underworld Boulders</text><text
class="text">Keep going along the track down to the gravely beach. From here follow the coast around southwards for 200m to find some boulders and walls which are about 50m to the north of the Underworld.</text><text
class="text">This slab is about 50m before the main walls.</text><image
src="Coles Bayunderworld1.jpg"/><problem extra="(Stand)"
grade="V2" name=" " number="1."
stars="*">Traverse break L-R</problem><problem extra="(Stand)"
grade="V2" name=" " number="2."
stars=" ">Jump to break and top out</problem><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="V3" name=" " number="3."
stars=" ">Flake</problem><problem extra="(Stand)"
grade="V1" name=" " number="4."
stars="*">Flake</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V3"
name=" " number="5."
stars="*">From jug above bulge crank up and left</problem><text
class="text">These are the shorter walls to the right at the main area.</text><image
src="Coles Bayunderworld2.jpg"/><problem extra="(Stand)"
grade="V1" name=" " number="1."
stars=" ">
</problem><problem extra="(Stand)"
grade="V3" name=" " number="2."
stars=" ">
</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V1"
name=" " number="3."
stars=" ">
</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V2"
name=" " number="4." stars=" ">
</problem><image
src="Coles Bayunderworld3.jpg"/><text
class="text">This is the main wall. I don't know if any of these lines have been done - they are very high and hard.</text><text
class="heading2">The Sea Level Traverse</text><text
class="text">There are a lot of walls, caves and free standing boulders along the Sea Level Traverse. The Traverse goes for several kilometres south along the coastline from Sleepy Bay. There are parts of the traverse that are quite tricky, especially if there is a swell running. There is a reasonable amount of potential here, but only a small amount of development has been done so far.</text><text
class="heading3">Stud City Limits Area</text><text
class="text">These square cut walls are found about 50m before the Horizontal Chimney, about 20-30 minutes along the traverse. The problems are good training for Hazards Main Wall, which looms menacingly above.</text><image
src="Coles Bayscl1.jpg"/><problem extra="(Highball, Stand)"
grade="V?" name=" " number="1."
stars=" ">Project</problem><problem extra="(Stand)"
grade="V1" name=" " number="2."
stars=" ">Face using pocket</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V4/5" name="Stud City Limits" number="3."
stars="*">Awkward sitstart below bulgey arete</problem><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="V2" name=" " number="4."
stars="*">Leftwards flake</problem><problem extra="(Stand)"
grade="V3" name=" " number="5."
stars=" ">Black slab</problem><image
src="Coles Bayscl2.jpg"/><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0"
name=" " number="1."
stars=" ">Slab</problem><problem extra="(Stand)"
grade="V2" name=" " number="2."
stars=" ">Slab</problem><problem extra="(Stand)"
grade="V3" name=" " number="3."
stars="*">Seam to slab</problem><problem extra="(Stand)"
grade="V2/3" name=" " number="4."
stars="*">Jugs to mantle</problem><problem extra="(SDS)"
grade="V3" name=" " number="5."
stars=" ">Sitstart on undercling to jugs</problem><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="V2" name=" " number="6."
stars=" ">Dyno from break to top</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="VE" name=" " number="7."
stars=" ">Jugs</problem><text
class="heading2">Honeymoon Bay</text><text
class="text">There is some bouldering here on the large granite boulder. Easy problems can be done up the slabby side and a slightly harder problem exists (about V3) which can be done up the slightly overhanging face.</text><text
class="heading2">Carp Bay Point</text><text
class="text">There are some very nice white boulders at the end of Carp Bay Point waiting for development.</text><text
class="heading2">Mt Amos</text><text
class="text">There are hundreds of boulders scattered around the flanks of Mt Amos. Unfortunately there are very few decent problems on them. There are some nice ones on the very summit that have good problems.</text><text
class="heading2">Little Bluestone Bay</text><text
class="text">Little Bluestone Bay has some good bouldering on nice white granite. To get there take a right hand turn down the 4WD track just before Whitewater Wall and follow the track south to the coast.</text><text
class="text">The following blocks are immediately to the left from where the track meets the coast.</text><image
src="Coles Baylbb1.jpg"/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V8"
name=" " number="1."
stars=" ">
</problem><problem extra="(SDS)"
grade="V3/4" name=" " number="2."
stars=" ">
</problem><problem extra="(SDS)"
grade="V4/5" name="Captain Pugwash" number="3."
stars="*">
</problem><text
class="heading3">The Pharos</text><text
class="text">Follow the coast leftwards (east/north) for 200m until you see the prominent pinnacle of the Sentinel. The Pharos is a group of edges just to the south of the Sentinel.</text><text
class="text">The following block is 40m to the left of the Pharos proper.</text><image
src="Coles Baypharos1.jpg"/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V?"
name=" " number="1."
stars=" ">
</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V?"
name=" " number="2."
stars=" ">
</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V?"
name=" " number="3." stars=" ">
</problem><text
class="text">This is the far left of the Pharos.</text><image
src="Coles Baypharos2.jpg"/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V2"
name=" " number="1."
stars=" ">Steepish face from jug</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name=" " number="2."
stars=" ">Face L of arete</problem><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="VE" name=" " number="3."
stars=" ">Easy corner</problem><text
class="text">This is the left hand side of the Pharos.</text><image
src="Coles Baypharos3.jpg"/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V4"
name=" " number="1."
stars=" ">
</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V?"
name=" " number="2."
stars=" ">Corner and roof</problem><problem extra="(SDS)"
grade="V10?" name=" " number="3."
stars="*">Steep thin crack and roof</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V1" name=" " number="4."
stars=" ">Up on jugs</problem><problem extra="(SDS)"
grade="V0" name=" " number="5."
stars=" ">Cracks L of corner</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name=" " number="6."
stars=" ">Face L of arete</problem><problem extra="(SDS)"
grade="V2" name=" " number="7."
stars="*">Jugs up arete</problem><problem extra="(SDS)"
grade="V0" name=" " number="8."
stars=" ">Flake in corner to R</problem><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" name=" " number="9."
stars=" ">2m right of corner</problem><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="VE" name=" " number="10."
stars=" ">There are 3 different cracks up the slab to the right</problem><image
src="Coles Baypharos4.jpg"/><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0"
name=" " number="1."
stars=" ">Crack and bulge</problem><problem extra="(SDS)"
grade="V6?" name=" " number="2."
stars=" ">Awkward sitstart in steep corner to flake system. Stand start is V2/3</problem><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" name=" " number="3."
stars=" ">Thin crack</problem><problem extra="(Stand)"
grade="V4" name=" " number="4."
stars="**">Face using right arete</problem><text
class="text">Directly above the right hand end of the Pharos is a slabby block.</text><image
src="Coles Baypharos5.jpg"/><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V?"
name=" " number="1."
stars=" ">Project - Hard and thin L-R traverse</problem><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="V?" name=" " number="2."
stars=" ">
</problem><problem extra="(Stand)"
grade="V2" name=" " number="3."
stars=" ">Arete</problem><problem extra="(Stand)"
grade="V2" name=" " number="4."
stars=" ">Crack without using holds over right</problem><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="V2" name=" " number="5."
stars=" ">Slab</problem><text
class="heading2">Bluestone Bay</text><text
class="heading3">The Bain Marie</text><text
class="access">From Bluestone Bay walk northwards along the shoreline for about 200m and you will come to a rocky platform with several boulders and small cliffs on it. This is the Bain Marie.
</text><image
src="Coles Baybone.JPG"/><problem extra=" " grade="V0"
name="Left hand Slab" number="1."
stars=" ">Up slab.</problem><problem extra=" "
grade="V0" name="Right hand Slab" number="2."
stars=" ">Up slab.</problem><image
src="Coles Baybtwo.JPG"/><problem extra=" " grade="V8"
name="Mykonos" number="3."
stars=" ">Start on crimp and undercling, pull on and bump up to top of boulder.</problem><image
src="Coles Baybthree.JPG"/><problem extra=" " grade="V3"
name="Roof Problem" number="4."
stars=" ">Start at back of roof on jugs, pull out through roof on jugs and around lip to top out.</problem><problem
extra=" " grade="V4" name="Project" number="5."
stars=" ">Sit start up into undercling and top out.</problem><image
src="Coles Baybfour.JPG"/><problem extra=" " grade="V0"
name="Slab" number="6."
stars=" ">Up easy angled slab on side of boulder.</problem><problem
extra=" " grade="V4" name="Traverse" number="7."
stars="*">Start on left and traverse across on edges and then up.</problem><image
src="Coles Baybfive.JPG"/><problem extra=" " grade="V4"
name="Undercut" number="8."
stars=" ">Start on underclings then into side pull and up over top.</problem><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="V8" name="White men can" number="9."
stars="*">Start on undercling sidepull jump to high sidepull up flake. (interesting foot stab helps) Sit start will go much harder V11?</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="Akasha" number="10."
stars="**">Start under roof, up to thin seam, big moves to top. Mantle or traverse. V5 start by not using the bad rock for feet. Both ways are fun.</problem><image
src="Coles Baybsix.JPG"/><problem extra=" " grade="V4"
name="Seven Nation Army" number="11."
stars="**">Sit start on crimps and up.</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name=" " number="11a."
stars=" ">Start on flake right of 11. Be careful on the mantle not to fall into the ocean.</problem><image
src="Coles Baybseven.JPG"/><problem extra=" " grade="V5"
name="Clockwork Orange" number="12."
stars=" ">Very easy if your very tall, very hard if your very short. Start on break, up into undercling then up to top.</problem><image
src="Coles Baycolesbay.jpg"/><text
class="text">Jon Nermut on a V5/6 at an area further around the coast from the Bain Marie</text><text
class="pagebreak">
</text><text
class="heading2">Whitewater Wall Area</text><text
class="heading3">Harlequin Buttress</text><text
class="text">At Harlequin Buttress there are a number of boulders with quite a few good problems ranging from easy to very hard. From the turning circle at the end of the road walk straight ahead to the cliff top, follow it rightwards for about 50m until you reach the top of some steps. Follow them down on to a ramp and to the boulders.</text><image
src="Coles Bayone.JPG"/><problem extra=" " grade="V3"
name="Traverse" number="1."
stars=" ">Start in corner and traverse left to jugs, can be done the opposite way at a similar grade.</problem><text
class="text">There are various sit start problems which can be done along the traverse that have not been recorded.
</text><image
src="Coles Baytwo.JPG"/><problem extra=" " grade="V5"
name="Orange" number="1."
stars=" ">Hang start on lip with feet on block, pull up to ledge and top out.</problem><problem
extra=" " grade="V0" name="Traverse" number="2."
stars=" ">Traverse wall.</problem><problem extra=" "
grade="V4" name="Slab" number="3."
stars=" ">Up Slab</problem><problem extra=" "
grade="V5" name="Mantel" number="4."
stars=" ">Hang start on lip and mantel over, desperate for some easy for others.</problem><problem
extra=" " grade="V1" name="Arete" number="5."
stars=" ">Hang start on arete, up right trending to top out.</problem><problem
extra=" " grade="V8" name="Project" number="6."
stars=" ">Start on crimps, hard pull to top.</problem><image
src="Coles Baythree.JPG"/><problem extra=" " grade="V5"
name="Traverse" number="1."
stars=" ">Start on jug traverse left for 5m to top out.</problem><problem
extra=" " grade="V4" name="Finger Power" number="2."
stars=" ">Up Slab.</problem><problem extra=" "
grade="V3" name="Balance" number="3."
stars=" ">Up slab near arete without using arete.</problem><problem
extra=" " grade="V1" name="Arete" number="4."
stars=" ">Sit start, up arete.</problem><problem
extra=" " grade="V?" name="Slab" number="5."
stars=" ">Up slab.</problem><image
src="Coles Bayfour.JPG"/><problem extra=" " grade="V12?"
name="Roof Project" number="1."
stars=" ">Start on break, into undercling, out to crimps to top.</problem><problem
extra=" " grade="V7" name="Campus" number="2."
stars=" ">Hang start on crimps, campus to edge and top out.</problem><problem
extra=" " grade="V5" name="Campuseis" number="3."
stars=" ">Hang of opposing side pulls, pop to jug and top out.</problem><problem
extra=" " grade="V0" name="Top Out" number="4."
stars=" ">Start on jug and top out.</problem><problem
extra=" " grade="V0" name="Topped Out" number="5."
stars=" ">Step onto lip and top out.</problem><image
src="Coles Bayfive.JPG"/><problem extra=" " grade="V1"
name="Traverse" number="1."
stars=" ">Start on jugs and traverse leftwards.</problem><problem
extra=" " grade="V4" name="Slopeout" number="2."
stars=" ">Stand Start to top out.</problem><problem
extra=" " grade="V1" name="Groovy" number="3."
stars=" ">Up groove, harder if your short.</problem><text
class="access">These problems are under the large "Jumping Block"</text><image
src="Coles Baysix.JPG"/><problem extra=" " grade="V3"
name="Traverty" number="1."
stars=" ">Traverse whole break to end and top out.</problem><problem
extra=" " grade="V5" name="Flaked" number="2."
stars=" ">Start near end of flake, traverse out then long throw to slope, finish in break.</problem><problem
extra=" " grade="V6" name="Campuseis" number="3."
stars=" ">Hang start on slopes and campus to break.</problem><problem
extra=" " grade="V9" name="Flake Out" number="4."
stars=" ">Start on undercling, out to slopes and up Camuseis.</problem><text
class="text">There are a variety of dead hangs on the dimples right of Campuseis. There are also various hang problems in the offwidth, including a foot hang and a chest hang.
</text><problem
extra=" " grade="V5" name="Pull" number="5."
stars=" ">Hang start on edge and throw to break.</problem><image
src="Coles Bayseven.JPG"/><problem extra=" " grade="V3"
name="Highball" number="1."
stars=" ">Up slab.</problem><problem extra=" "
grade="V2" name="Highball2" number="2."
stars=" ">Out to arete and up.</problem><problem
extra=" " grade="V2" name="Crash Pad" number="3."
stars=" ">Up face.</problem><problem extra=" "
grade="V4" name="Sitter" number="4."
stars=" ">Sit start and up.</problem><problem
extra=" " grade="V3" name="Lope" number="5."
stars=" ">Sit start, dyno up to jug.</problem><image
src="Coles Bayeight.JPG"/><text
class="text">This is the face underneath the main block, there have been many problems done on this piece of rock, all of them within the grade range from V0 to V3, so take your shoes and chalk bag and go exploring.</text><text
class="text">A full traverse has been done right the way around the zawn to the platform opposite, the blank wall past the platform awaits a traverse. Keep an eye on the sea - it is hard to get out of the water if there is any swell around</text><text
class="pagebreak">
</text><text
class="heading2">Friendly Point Road</text><text
class="text">The boulders below can be found on the road leading out to Friendly Point. Only a couple of problems have been done, but potential exists for quite a few more although extensive cleaning is required.</text><text
class="heading3">Tamogochi Boulder</text><text
class="text">This boulder is the third boulder on the left and is about 5m off the side of the road. The problems marked below have been cleaned.</text><image
src="Coles Bay - Friendly Pointtamogochi_a.jpg"
width="300"></image><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V2"
name="Kate+Jules Prob" number="1."
stars="*">Up the face right of the arete.</problem><problem
extra=" " grade="V2?" name=" " number="2."
stars=" ">Project</problem><problem extra=" "
grade="V6" name=" " number="3."
stars=" ">Project</problem><text
class="heading2">Friendly Point</text><text
class="access">These problems are at the Friendly Point crag. From the end of the road to the southern end of Friendly Beaches, walk south around the coast for 20-30 minutes until you turn a corner and come across a substantial crag with several sport routes.</text><image
src="Coles Bayfp.jpg"/><problem extra=" " grade="V?"
name=" " number="1."
stars=" ">Mini Person project.</problem><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="V7?" name=" " number="2."
stars=" ">Straight up seam, sitdown potential also exists.</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V5?" name=" " number="3."
stars=" ">Start under the rooflet.</problem><problem
extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" name=" " number="4."
stars=" ">Up crack and arete.</problem><problem
extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name=" " number="5." stars=" ">Sit start under the rooflet. Its a bit tricky coming around corner and nicer to do as a stand start, starting where Bisso is climbing.</problem></guide>
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