<guide version="3">
<header access="" acknowledgement="" history="" intro="These two separate areas uphill from Northern Buttress provide some interesting and classic climbing." name="Rockaway and Amphitheatre" rock="Dolerite columns and pinnacles up to 30m" sun="Not much sun" walk="10 min from Northern Buttress" id="1" camping="" autonumber="true"/>
<text class="heading2" id="12">Amphitheatre Ledge</text>
<text class="text" id="13">Uphill and left of Rockaway Gully is another broad gully which leads to an impressive cirque or amphitheatre of columns. Perched in the middle of the scree below is a large isolated rock called the Shipwreck (GPS MTW020), which is a great vantage point to get your bearings. Immediately right of the Columns at the head of the cirque is a natural continuation of shorter lines, most of which begin from a ledge 30m below the top of the cliff. This is Amphitheatre Ledge and it can be accessed from below via Exit Entry or from above via abseil from the Amphitheatre rap station (see below). <br/><br/>Descent: Either down-climb Exit Entry (vegetated and often slippery) or abseil from the Amphitheatre rap station (GPS MTW130 – marked by a cairn and blue dots, 30m to Amphitheatre Ledge, 50m to the gully floor).</text>
<text id="34" class="text">The first three routes, are accessed following the track from the Darkside section of Northern Buttress, then taking the right fork at the track junction near the Shipwreck and heading up the grassy slope into the head of the cirque.</text>
<climb extra="" grade="21" length="20m" name="Afterburner" number="1." stars="" id="16" fa="A. Herington, E. Peacock, G. Narkowicz, 1983.">This route starts uphill and left of the start of Exit Entry, at the apex of the cirque. Climb the thin crack immediately to the right of the body chimney with a bush at half height. Climb past the roof 12m up to finish on Amphitheatre Ledge below Resurrection Shuffle.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="7 " length="" name="Exit Entry" number="2." stars="" id="15" fa="">An easy yet exposed scrambling route to the top of the Pipes that follows the ridgeline leading past Albert's Tomb. This route is used primarily to access Amphitheatre Ledge and Rockaway Gully, and was once the usual decent for many routes on the Pipes. It is still used occasionally as a descent from Sentinel Ridge or climbs in the Columns. At the track junction near the Shipwreck, take the right fork and walk up the grassy slope into the cirque for 50m to a damp chimney that appears in the wall on the right. Go up the hill a further 5m, before hand traversing back right across a vegetated wall to step across the top of the chimney. Follow a distinct path up through the vegetation ascending a couple of short walls passing Albert's Tomb to reach a short ramp at the base of the final difficulties. Amphitheatre Ledge veers off to the left from here, with access to Rockaway Gully and Punk to the right. To continue up Exit Entry, follow the right trending ramp and then traverse back left to the base of a 5m chimney that leads to the top. Descend by down-climbing the route. Alternatively, use the Amphitheatre rap station 10m uphill from the top of the Exit Entry (50m).</climb>
<climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="25" length="15m" name=" James's Arête" number="3." stars="**" id="14" fa="R. Parkyn, Mar 1998.">Named in honour of James Moar, a good friend of the first ascentionist, who died while climbing in NZ. The track from the Darkside section of Norther Buttress to Exit Entry, passes below an orange wall, downhill of Albert's Tomb. Climb the bolted arête on the right side of the orange wall. To reach the start, branch rightwards off the track going up to Exit Entry, about 20 m past the track junction near the Shipwreck (at this point you're left of the start of the climb). You should quickly pick up a clear route that leads behind a boulder and involves some scrambling in a vaguely up and rightwards direction (easy enough but not for non-climbers and probably better descended on abseil). Anything in or beyond the crack right of the bolted arête is off-route (not as contrived as it sounds). Sustained climbing leads to a crux high up.</climb>
<text class="text" id="17">The next routes are on Amphitheatre Ledge proper and described left to right. Access via Exit Entry. Descent via Exit Entry or use the Amphitheatre Rap Station (30m to Amphitheatre Ledge, 50m to the gully floor).</text>
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<climb>26</climb>
<climb>25</climb>
<climb>24</climb>
<climb>23</climb>
<climb>22</climb>
<climb>21</climb>
<climb>20</climb>
<climb>19</climb>
<climb>18</climb>
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<climb extra="" grade="11" length="30m" name="Richard Scraper" number="4." stars="" id="27" fa="J. Davies, J. Burgess, Oct 1971.">Start 3m L of The Munt. Attain a definite ledge at 5m and then continue L up the chimney to another ledge at 25m. The top is reached by a short crack on the R which avoids a messy chimney.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="14" length="30m" name="The Munt" stars="" id="26" fa="I. Lewis, L. Closs, Oct 1971." number="5.">A very striking vee-chimney near the LH end of Amphitheatre Ledge. Follow the chimney to a large ledge. Up a crack to another big ledge and finish by the LH of two possible cracks.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="20" length="30m" name="Resurrection Shuffle" stars="**" id="25" fa="I. Lewis, K. Carrigan, 1975." number="6."><br/> An exciting layback flake that leads to an aerobic workout finale. Near the LH end of Amphitheatre Ledge a layback crack curves to the R to meet the base of a hand crack in a shallow corner. Layback and jam the flake to a stance at 12m. Deep and delicate hand jamming up the final 15m is required to prevent permanent scarring to the forearms. Take a couple of #3 camalots or #3.5 Friends and don't forget that arm-barring is truly good for you.<br/></climb>
<climb extra="" grade="25" length="25m" name=" Second Coming" number="7." stars="**" id="24" fa="J. Kennedy, S. Parsons, 1985.">The very thin crack R of Resurrection Shuffle. Climb Resurrection Shuffle until you can traverse right into the base of the finger crack. Originally done with a bouldery direct start, which is a tad harder and not as good.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="19" length="25m" name="Ethnic Cornflake" number="8." stars="*" id="23" fa="J. Friend, D. Bowman, Dec 1977.">The first line R of where the rap route goes, starting from a large ledge with a big block on L (scramble up or swing onto it from the rap line). Climb the crack, mantle the ledge, then continue to the top.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="21" length="30m" name="Bella Donna" stars="*" id="22" fa="G. Tempest, D. Bowman, Dec 1978." number="9.">A 6" tube is useful – or a very large cam (or two) in today's language! Another sandbag waiting to happen. On the nose several metres L of Galah Performance is a crack widening from fist size to a chimney at the top with a bush at one-third height. Climb around the bulge and continue up past the bush to a ledge, then up to the top.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="M5" length="25m" name="Bob Gnarly And The Nailers" stars="" id="21" fa="D. Fife (solo), Apr 1982." number="10.">Aid the thin line between Bella Donna and Beast with knife blades and RPs.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="20" length="25m" name="Beast" number="11." stars="" id="20" fa="S. Parsons, P. Bigg, S. Brennan, 1980.">The corner above a ledge R of Bella Donna. Jam the corner to the R of the ledge using an intermittent crack on the R. Pull around a block to finish.</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="20" length="20m" name="Galah Performance" number="12." stars="*" id="19" fa="K. Carrigan, I. Lewis, S. Karpiniec, M. Dunstan, Jan 1975.">Climb the sustained crack line just L of Reds Route. One of the classic climbs of the period, and scene of considerable dogging and many repeated attempts, although the climb is probably now easier than it used to be, due to the removal of the concrete cockatoo (hence the name) from the crack. The cockatoo had been placed (on abseil) by Ken McConnell sometime prior to the first ascent in the early '70s. Large tubes were used to protect the off-width section at the top (take your large cams now) and protection was left in place between lead attempts, but the rope was pulled back down (as was considered 'good practice' at the time). There was some discussion between Kim and Lew as to the grade - was it 19 or 20? You had to be brave to start a grade number with a two in those days, so 19 was decided on... most climbers today will find that just a tad conservative, as this climb has handed out more beatings than Madame Lash!</climb>
<climb extra="" grade="8 " length="30m" name="Reds Route" number="13." stars="" id="18" fa="J. Burgess, M. Emery, Oct 1971.">The large chimney a few metres L of Exit Entry. Climb the chimney.</climb>
<text class="heading2" id="2">Rockaway Gully</text>
<text class="text" id="3">The site of a massive rock fall in 1985, that saw a remnant chunk travel a significant distance down the mountain to block traffic on the pinnacle road. Rockaway Gully is immediately left of the Darkside section of Northern Buttress. The Gully is bounded by two ridge lines. To its left is the Exit Entry ridgeline, which provides access to the top of the cliffs via a vegetated grade 7 scramble. Albert's Tomb, a conspicuous 10m free standing pillar that is watched over by a resident garden gnome, sits on the Exit Entry ridgeline overlooking Rockaway Gully. The ridgeline that bounds the right of the gully is Sentinel Ridge. <br/><br/>Access to all routes is gained by scrambling up Exit Entry. Access to Albert's Tomb, is about halfway up Exit Entry and is found just right of the scrambling route. <br/><br/>The routes in Rockaway Gully proper are all located on the left hand side of gully and are described left to right starting at the bottom of the gully and working back towards the top.<br/><br/>There are two points of access into the Rockaway Gully by abseil. Immediately in front of the base of Albert's Tomb is the Fifth Elephant rap station, providing access to routes in the lower section of Rockaway Gully (25m).<br/><br/>For access for the routes in upper Rockaway Gully, continue up Exit Entry to the final difficulties. Instead of turning left as for Amphitheatre Ledge, turn right and step carefully through a gap onto a ledge overlooking Punk. Set up belay anchors and rap down the line of Punk (25m).<br/><br/>Accessing Rockaway Gully directly from below near Chockstone Gully, is considered to be 'death on a stick.'</text>
<text id="30" class="text">Four routes make their way to the top of Albert's Tomb itself, in one way or another. This 10m detached pillar is located halfway up Exit Entry just right of the scrambling path. It is equipped with a rap anchor on its summit (10m).</text>
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<climb extra="↓ " grade="" length="2m" name="Albert's Tomb" number="14." stars="***" id="7" fa="First Leap: R. Williams, Apr 1967.">This leap of faith is guaranteed to sort out any hangover. From Exit Entry, climb to the top of the platform that overlooks the summit of Albert's Tomb, from its uphill side. To sit alongside the little gnome who guards the top of Albert's Tomb requires a little hop from the platform. Not for the faint hearted, as the top of the "Tomb" is narrow, and to misjudge the distance would be rather embarrassing. The return leap for the platform edge is an even bigger test of composure. Descend by abseil if in doubt (10m). The Mangle is a bent and narrow gutted crack that is an alternative route to the take off platform.</climb>
<climb id="35" name="Priapism" grade="29" length="12m" fa="G. Phillips, Mar 2011" extra="Þ ↓" stars="**" number="15.">Facing downhill, this route ascends the arête 3m left of Slap Dancer.</climb>
<climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="27" length="10m" name=" Slap Dancer" number="16." stars="***" id="8" fa="S. Edwards, Mar 1997.">Funky and physical. A route that has cover photo written all over it. Slap Dancer faces Rockaway Gully and follows the line of bolts between the two arêtes.</climb>
<climb extra="↓" grade="M3" length="10m" name="Sweet Poison Fan Club Crack" number="17." stars="" id="9" fa="D. Fife, R. DeCesare, Nov 1980.">Guaranteed to raise your blood pressure. The hairline crack on the uphill side of Albert's Tomb which expands towards the top. Avoid over-driving your top piton placements or you risk expanding the crack and facing a ground fall when all the gear below you drops out.</climb>
<text id="38" class="text">The following route is on the next platform up from Albert's Tomb. Access by crossing over from the Tomb.</text>
<climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="24" length="15m" name="Fall Out" number="18." stars="*" id="10" fa="G. Phillips, J. McKenny, Feb 2000.">The awkward face and crack facing Albert's Tomb. Fully bolted.</climb>
<text id="28" class="text">Access for the the following routes in lower Rockaway Gully is by abseil from the Fifth Elephant rap anchors immediately in front of the base of Albert's Tomb.</text>
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<climb extra="" grade="18" length="30m" name="The Times They Are A-Changin'" number="19." stars="*" id="4" fa="Jake Bresnehan, Alan Williams, Jan 2008 (not 1968!).">The wide crack just left of Completion Backwards Principle. Follow perfectly sized squeeze crack of least resistance up. Big gear, a #5 Camalot comes in handy for the last 10m.</climb>
<climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="26" length="27m" name="Completion Backward Principle" number="20." stars="***" id="5" fa="D. Fife, Phil Steane, 1982. FFA: A. Williams, Apr 2001.">Superb climbing up a seam. With the aid of some retro-bolts this old aid route now goes free. Climbs the thin line on the right hand face of a corner. Take a #1 Camalot for the start, then follow the U-bolts to the top. The route is obvious from the scree adjacent to Jackson's Apprentices.</climb>
<climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="27" length="25m" name="The Fifth Elephant" number="21." stars="***" id="6" fa="A. Williams, Jan 2001.">The bolted arête, 3m right of Completion Backwards Principle.</climb>
<text id="33" class="text">The following routes are found on the upper buttresses of Rockaway Gully. Scramble up Exit Entry past Albert's Tomb to the base of final difficulties (or alternatively access from the summit and downclimb the top section of Exit Entry). Turn right and step carefully through a gap onto a ledge overlooking Rockaway Gully. This is the top of Punk. Set up abseil anchors and rap in (25m).</text>
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<climb extra="" grade="19" length="25m" name="Punk" number="22." stars="***" id="11" fa="P. Bigg, D. Fife, S. Parsons, 1982.">If you're yearning for pure jamming, this baby is for you diehards! Don't forget your jamming gloves. Located in upper Rockaway Gully, this crack has gradually widened over the last 20 years. Rap into the gully and belay at the base of the climb. Jam the hand to tight fist size crack to the final layback moves below the ledge. Take a set of camelots from #0.3 to #4. A double or triple set of #2 and #3 cams can help to relieve your anxiety.</climb>
<climb id="37" stars="" extra="" number="23." name="Emo" length="20m" grade="16" fa="D. Rollins, D. James, Mar 2013.">A couple of lines right of Punk is a hand crack with an alcove halfway up. Rap into the gully as for Punk and belay in a small niche with a spike. Climb the line to the top.</climb>
</guide>
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