<guide>
<header id="1" name="Cloudy Bay" walk="1-1.25hrs" sun="Mostly PM" rock="Granito-dolerite" acknowledgement="By Ben Maddison" intro="This cliff was developed during 2016/17. It contains a high proportion of high quality routes, in a spectacular setting on South Bruny Island. On sunny afternoons you can see Pedra Branca and the Eddystone. The rock is generally good, hard, pockety granitic dolerite. The climbing is steep and pumpy at the Aviary, less so on the Southern Ocean Face, although here the routes have a big feel as the Southern Ocean bangs away in the zawn below. Because the crag sits on slabs 80+ meters above the sea, the rock does not suffer from the oceanic glaze that characterises many sea cliffs. It is also unaffected by tides and swell, although southerly and westerly winds can be a problem. The BoM’s MetEye function has a South Bruny station, which gives pretty reliable wind and rain forecasts. The routes are mainly single pitch, and you can get away with a single 60m rope on all sections of the crag. There are quite a few mixed routes that require a rack, but on the Aviary there are plenty of sports routes. Most of the fixed gear and lower-offs/rap stations are glued-in U bolts." history="" access="Take the Bruny Island ferry. The drive to Cloudy Bay takes about 50 minutes. Drive down the concrete ramp and along the beach at Cloudy Bay (4wd not needed – usually very hard sand. I once saw a Barina in there) to campground at Cloudy Corner. Drive clockwise around the perimeter track to park at start of track to East Cloudy Head, marked by tap next to water tank. Walk up the East Cloudy Head track, continuing past the flat area at 30 mins, up the hill and traversing the hillside (spectacular views of the Friars Islands) for a further 15 mins, through a patch of forest. The trail to the crag starts 15m after the forest ends and the track heads uphill again.The track start is marked by a blue tag on a bush on the RHS of the main track. Follow trampled trail marked by orange tapes and cairns, slanting down diagonally leftwards towards the ocean until (about 10-15mins in) you reach two large cairns on a rock slab on the RHS of the track. From here there are two main ways to access the crag. <br/>Access 1: Follow cairns/tapes directly towards sea from these cairns, down beside a slab, to a fixed handline that descends a gully that leads to the bottom of the crag. Follow cliffline rightwards (facing in) from bottom of gully to reach the LHS of the Aviary. <br/><br/>Access 2: from the cairns keep traversing the hillside on the footpad track for 5 mins, until you see a post , which marks the place where you drop down to a good terrace and anchors. Fix a rope (i.e. if you choose this access, you will need to bring a rap rope) and abseil down to the Aviary in the region of Birdbrain/Blackbird. <br/><br/>The cliff top is quite rubbly and unstable, not so much a problem when you are at the top, but very dangerous if there are people below. For this reason all routes have lower-offs/rap stations. If you use Access 1 you only need to bring a 60m rope. <br/><br/><br/>" camping="The campground at Cloudy Corner has water and two toilets. Its a great spot, and usually pretty quiet, and a good place to base yourself for a couple of days trip to Cloudy. " autonumber="true"/>
<gps id="32">
<point pid="2" description="Cloudy Bay access to beach" latitude="-43.44000" longitude="147.24186" easting="519572" northing="5190293" zone="55G" code="CBA000"/>
<polyline pid="3" description="Cloudy Bay track">-43.486965,147.246626 -43.487001,147.246672 -43.487027,147.24662 -43.487077,147.246837 -43.486808,147.247267 -43.48667,147.247664 -43.486572,147.247802 -43.486641,147.247958 -43.486596,147.248133 -43.486631,147.248153 -43.486613,147.24834 -43.486667,147.24842 -43.486617,147.248736 -43.486526,147.248915 -43.486448,147.249341 -43.486514,147.249425 -43.486411,147.250258 -43.486213,147.250752 -43.486196,147.251199 -43.48626,147.252247 -43.48623,147.25231 -43.486315,147.25249 -43.486067,147.252703 -43.485825,147.252749 -43.485722,147.253055 -43.485473,147.253332 -43.484548,147.253866 -43.484259,147.254166 -43.483821,147.254186 -43.483446,147.254378 -43.483335,147.25422 -43.483113,147.25409 -43.483149,147.254104 -43.482471,147.253879 -43.482305,147.253378 -43.482142,147.253191 -43.481688,147.25302 -43.481538,147.252849 -43.481359,147.252875 -43.480695,147.252654 -43.480504,147.252671 -43.480404,147.252591 -43.480206,147.252573 -43.479964,147.25243 -43.479694,147.25249 -43.479458,147.252376 -43.479188,147.252399 -43.479074,147.252491 -43.478928,147.252444 -43.47872,147.252505 -43.478319,147.252481 -43.477782,147.252563 -43.477541,147.252725 -43.477369,147.25258 -43.476672,147.252443 -43.476204,147.252567 -43.475889,147.25254 -43.475599,147.252747 -43.475159,147.252713 -43.474784,147.252924 -43.474007,147.252958 -43.473745,147.253126 -43.473206,147.253082 -43.473098,147.253015 -43.472994,147.253043 -43.472752,147.252823 -43.472338,147.252765 -43.472185,147.252597 -43.471905,147.252557 -43.47181,147.252464 -43.471372,147.251472 -43.47132,147.251178 -43.471174,147.250848 -43.471368,147.250027 -43.47125,147.249716 -43.471115,147.249605 -43.47095,147.2493 -43.470548,147.248907 -43.470211,147.248864 -43.469817,147.248594 -43.46946,147.248017 -43.469521,147.248056 -43.469598,147.248004 -43.469484,147.248049 -43.469363,147.247954 -43.469008,147.24815 -43.468423,147.248908 -43.468238,147.249305 -43.468018,147.249624 -43.467718,147.249875 -43.467638,147.250079 -43.467642,147.250725 -43.467586,147.250867 -43.467049,147.2508 -43.466968,147.250676 -43.466886,147.250688 -43.466745,147.250485 -43.466616,147.250775 -43.466486,147.250853 -43.466454,147.251198</polyline>
<point pid="4" description="Cloudy Bay start of track" latitude="-43.46644" longitude="147.25124" easting="520322" northing="5187354" zone="55G" code="CBA010"/>
<point pid="5" description="Cloudy Bay turn off" latitude="-43.48631" longitude="147.25249" easting="520417" northing="5185147" zone="55G" code="CBA020"/>
<point pid="6" description="Cloudy Bay top of gully" latitude="-43.48705" longitude="147.24660" easting="519940" northing="5185067" zone="55G" code="CBA030"/>
</gps>
<text id="30" class="heading2">The Aviary</text>
<text id="3" class="intro">Is an amphitheatre set above the slabs that roll 80+ metres into Cloudy Bay. Facing west and north, it is a sun trap, can be nice on a winters afternoon, and is quite sheltered from all but westerly and southerly winds. If its windy the routes on the left hand end are often sheltered. The Aviary has a heap of good quality routes, characterised by good rock, and quite unique climbing featuring steep flake and pocket sequences, punctuated with fingery crux sections. Most routes here are bolt equipped, although some classics such as Blackbird and Spirit Rising require gear. Routes are described left to right, and spread across the amphitheatre from the very recognisable Cloacca Crack on the left hand side, to Footnote, on the lower right hand end.</text>
<climb id="2" stars="" extra="" number="1." name="Cloacca Crack" length="20m" grade="16" fa="G. Mortimer & P. Mills March 2016">The black and evil corner at the left end of the Aviary. The name says it all.</climb>
<climb id="5" stars="**" extra="10Þ" number="2." name=" Birdbrain" length="25m" grade="21" fa="B. Maddison & B. Bull September 2016">Start: 3m R of CC. Steep start through overlap then up groove to tricky finish. 10 B and DBB</climb>
<climb id="6" stars="***" extra="2Þ" number="3." name="Blackbird" length="25m" grade="20" fa="B. Maddison & I. Crossland February 2016">Start: 2 m R of Birdbrain. Tricky start moves past two bolts, into cracks and flake (6/7 Rock), cruxy moves past two more bolts lead into corner (medium cams) and final rooflet (finger-size cam at lip) to DBB. <br/></climb>
<climb id="7" stars="***" extra="" number="4." name="Desert Raven" length="25m" grade="23" fa="B. Maddison & I. Crossland, February 2016 "><br/>2m R of Blackbird. Great route with only 3 cruxes. Steep pockets and flakes past two cruxes and final hard move to DBB on ledge. Ignore the L of the two bolts on the final moves <br/></climb>
<climb id="8" stars="**" extra="" number="5." name="Crow" length="25m" grade="22" fa="Ben Maddison & Ingrid Crossland September 2016">Start: 2 m R of Desert Raven. <br/> Enjoyable climbing on flakes and pockets with a fingery technical crux at 2/3 height. Up the pockets to a hard move R and up under roof. Turn roof on the L, and up to a laybacking finish up the black arête. DBB. <br/></climb>
<climb id="9" stars="" extra="" number="6." name="Greg’s Crack" length="" grade="" fa="">The black crack R of Crow. Awaits first ascent.</climb>
<climb id="10" stars="**" extra="9Þ" number="7." name="Powerful Owl" length="" grade="24" fa="B. Maddison & I Crossland October 2016">Start 2m R of GC.<br/>Up the steep and beautifully-pocketed wall and groove above to DBB.<br/><br/></climb>
<climb id="11" stars="*" extra="9Þ" number="8." name="Your Tern " length="25m" grade="19" fa="Ben Maddison & Ingrid Crossland March 2016">Start. 5 m R of Grouse, at line of bolts with fixed hangers. <br/>Flakes lead up long grey scoop, turning roof on L. DBB belay. <br/></climb>
<climb id="12" stars="*" extra="9Þ" number="9." name="Blood Eagle" length="20m" grade="21" fa="B. Maddison/Brian Burfitt September 2016">Start. 2 m R of YT<br/>Good steep face climbing up the arête line. After bolt 7, either step L into groove for a couple of moves then back R on arête or continue straight up arête (22) to DBB. <br/></climb>
<climb id="13" stars="**" extra="" number="10." name="Depth Charge" length="25m" grade="20" fa=" B. Maddison/I Crossland October 2016">Start: 3m R of Blood Eagle, at foot of grey corner capped by roof, with crack & flakes on L and R walls. The crack line in L wall of corner. Up steep cracks through bulge with great gear (cams and med wires), turning roof on L, past 4 bolts to DBB.<br/></climb>
<climb id="14" stars="***" extra="" number="11." name="Spirit Rising" length="25m" grade="19" fa="B. Maddison & I. Crossland March 2016">Start 2m R of DC. Good moves, great rock and gear, including a #3 cam for pocket at 2/3 height.<br/> Up cracks and flakes on R wall of corner. Where the roof starts to steepen up at 3/4 height, step R onto a foothold to gain sloping ledge and delightful short corner to DBB. <br/></climb>
<climb id="15" stars="***" extra="7Þ" number="12." name="Cheeky Monkey " length="18m" grade="20" fa="B. Maddison & B. Bull June 2016">Funky climbing up pocketed arête 2m R of SR. 7B to lower off.</climb>
<text id="37" class="heading3">The Right Wing. <br/></text>
<text id="38" class="text"><br/>North facing, and with more standard and less steep groove climbing on good rock.</text>
<image id="33" src="IMG_2812.jpg" height="783" width="500">
<drawing>
<path id="1164" points="69,769, 52,689, 50,643, 54,597, 31,552, 17,492, 6,430, 6,383, 6,356, 21,329,lower" d="M69,769C62.2,737 54.74617764444734,707.2114938526508 52,689C49.25382235555266,670.7885061473492 49.59971668040362,661.4130327014333 50,643C50.40028331959638,624.5869672985667 57.774853151536846,615.0795598310449 54,597C50.225146848463154,578.9204401689551 37.71840864226974,571.0657542550898 31,552C24.281591357730257,532.9342457449102 21.94733369052782,516.1429884097759 17,492C12.052666309472178,467.8570115902242 7.8876597831063755,448.7049923962359 6,430C4.1123402168936245,411.2950076037641 5.999999999999999,393.8 6,383C6.000000000000001,372.2 3.1094462711101776,366.4059934240034 6,356C8.890553728889822,345.5940065759966 15,339.8 21,329" linkedTo="16"/>
<path id="66410" points="264,775, 269,710, 281,665, 296,604, 292,507, 305,428, 309,381, 310,304, 304,269, 315,210, 303,108, 298,98,lower" d="M264,775C266,749 266.15474914682954,728.4104466969852 269,710C271.84525085317046,691.5895533030148 276.4017012902793,683.0525801196444 281,665C285.5982987097207,646.9474198803556 294.254884546803,629.0662037822844 296,604C297.745115453197,578.9337962177156 290.36449542054544,538.9832006648894 292,507C293.63550457945456,475.0167993351106 302.4771811581579,446.6985396513002 305,428C307.5228188418421,409.3014603486998 308.23981281716203,399.8526421343813 309,381C309.76018718283797,362.1473578656187 310.63348622519965,318.19009144447216 310,304C309.36651377480035,289.80990855552784 303.2455227121506,283.1841730115689 304,269C304.7544772878494,254.8158269884311 315.1491068489485,234.0062026807156 315,210C314.8508931510515,185.9937973192844 303.6711194447525,112.4214928124871 303,108C302.3288805552475,103.5785071875129 300,102 298,98" linkedTo="18"/>
<path id="48949" points="412,777, 411,701, 441,627, 450,598, 450,574, 437,557, 431,519, 428,498, 422,451, 411,422, 410,398, 414,367, 406,337, 398,303, 389,265, 392,242, 395,194, 388,150, 385,108, 388,94,lower" d="M412,777C411.6,746.6 405.2290216679751,730.8498879242669 411,701C416.7709783320249,671.1501120757331 436.69909689500577,638.3587953798566 441,627C445.30090310499423,615.6412046201434 448.39281888330265,607.464511020551 450,598C451.60718111669735,588.535488979449 452.5873204337745,582.1600105988273 450,574C447.4126795662255,565.8399894011727 439.7951354249319,565.091181493224 437,557C434.2048645750681,548.908818506776 432.27956337303146,527.3882487787616 431,519C429.72043662696854,510.61175122123836 429.1133428997067,506.41192413111725 428,498C426.8866571002933,489.58807586888275 424.7082019478986,463.10725576707614 422,451C419.2917980521014,438.89274423292386 413.1217656806991,431.3711317564213 411,422C408.8782343193009,412.6288682435787 409.47668719171065,407.59406815197184 410,398C410.52331280828935,388.40593184802816 414.81263767076376,379.39272447914726 414,367C413.18736232923624,354.60727552085274 409.0121323305045,349.04852932201806 406,337C402.9878676694955,324.95147067798194 401.21052535413065,316.59751914690634 398,303C394.78947464586935,289.40248085309366 389.9082005948404,274.23337271421076 389,265C388.0917994051596,255.76662728578924 391.2187342280497,251.244978301412 392,242C392.7812657719503,232.755021698588 395.77410934823115,211.80451500931662 395,194C394.22589065176885,176.19548499068338 389.9453581563447,166.73008014456425 388,150C386.0546418436553,133.26991985543575 385,113.72712842531054 385,108C385,102.27287157468946 386.8,99.6 388,94" linkedTo="28"/>
<path id="50210" points="203,779, 203,731, 208,670, 222,614, 238,572, 238,522, 243,477, 246,428, 243,377, 238,318, 235,267, 238,224, 235,156, 235,97, 236,74, 236,67,lower" d="M203,779C203,759.8 202.12019121543582,750.1798315034988 203,731C203.87980878456418,711.8201684965012 204.29892465371736,692.79083239553 208,670C211.70107534628264,647.20916760447 216.73765188415783,631.1903371784177 222,614C227.26234811584217,596.8096628215823 234.9196687894039,589.7119044609276 238,572C241.0803312105961,554.2880955390724 237.04811904732458,540.0857381008333 238,522C238.95188095267542,503.91426189916666 241.46420975214932,495.0455354122455 243,477C244.53579024785068,458.9544645877545 246,447.63670033381374 246,428C246,408.36329966618626 244.4822860664866,397.38143341419095 243,377C241.5177139335134,356.61856658580905 239.4822860664866,338.38143341419095 238,318C236.5177139335134,297.61856658580905 235,284.24180964980184 235,267C235,249.75819035019816 238,241.24180964980184 238,224C238,206.75819035019816 235.55732484270393,179.59341834113286 235,156C234.44267515729607,132.40658165886714 234.88770723341412,106.20800686004156 235,97C235.11229276658588,87.79199313995844 235.9067184753486,76.79844573954163 236,74C236.0932815246514,71.20155426045837 236,69.8 236,67" linkedTo="17"/>
</drawing>
<legend>
<climb>16</climb>
<climb>17</climb>
<climb>18</climb>
<climb>28</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<climb id="16" stars="*" extra="5Þ" number="13." name="Wizard" length="15m" grade="21" fa=" B. Maddison & B. Bull June 2016">Weakness up centre of black face where cliff turns corner and runs down in the seawards direction to Footnote. 5B to lower off.</climb>
<climb id="17" stars="*" extra="11Þ" number="14." name="Dyspraxia" length="25m" grade="20" fa="B.Maddison/I. Crossland October 2016">Start 3m R of Wizard.and 1.5m L of MM. Tricky past 2 bolts, then steady climbing up steep groove line. 11 B to DBB</climb>
<climb id="18" stars="**" extra="" number="15." name="Midwinter Madness" length="25m" grade="20" fa=" B. Maddison & O. Delprado July 2016">Start 4m R of W, beneath shallow corner with crack in R wall. Take med wires and small-med cams. Up corner system, then groove past 2 B to DBB/lower-off.</climb>
<climb id="28" stars="**" extra="11Þ" number="16." name="Solstice Grooves" length="25" grade="21" fa="B. Maddison & O. Delprado July 2016">Start 2m R of MM. Up starting cracks and bulges, into steep, technical groove past 11 bolts to DBB. <br/><br/></climb>
<image id="36" src="1P1000118.JPG" height="800" width="600">
<drawing>
<path id="2318" points="369,706, 369,641, 385,578, 386,528, 390,465, 395,424, 383,375, 384,334, 382,305, 375,271, 362,257,lower 349,238, 322,213, 323,195, 326,158, 331,131, 334,111, 332,78,lower" d="M369,706C369,680 365.7750969006806,666.7992247945554 369,641C372.2249030993194,615.2007752054446 382.02403769146576,597.7813965214335 385,578C387.97596230853424,558.2186034785665 385.1157324900052,547.9844457258831 386,528C386.8842675099948,508.0155542741169 388.5755784392952,481.45998247925553 390,465C391.4244215607048,448.54001752074447 396.2811364448241,440.47175429059524 395,424C393.7188635551759,407.52824570940476 384.9902303655403,391.28370299078443 383,375C381.0097696344597,358.71629700921557 384.1660909597075,345.6263671795236 384,334C383.8339090402925,322.3736328204764 383.64438438328756,316.5106906830129 382,305C380.35561561671244,293.4893093169871 377.9392266422374,278.05414394136966 375,271C372.0607733577626,263.94585605863034 366.72941491509187,263.00271893069356 362,257C357.27058508490813,250.99728106930647 355.19443627168624,244.81387989885485 349,238C342.80556372831376,231.18612010114515 325.73116391470757,219.17077108970867 322,213C318.26883608529243,206.82922891029133 322.476937659136,202.19210718687992 323,195C323.523062340864,187.80789281312008 324.6376490907259,168.8988072741929 326,158C327.3623509092741,147.1011927258071 329.64258728026994,138.97479972841418 331,131C332.35741271973006,123.02520027158582 333.8473950976287,119.0880598256796 334,111C334.1526049023713,102.9119401743204 332.8,91.2 332,78" linkedTo="20"/>
<path id="75574" points="532,795, 530,751, 522,693, 512,651, 498,606, 497,560, 490,513, 490,483, 484,426, 481,388, 479,344, 470,305, 463,275, 438,257,lower" d="M532,795C531.2,777.4 531.7190301734533,768.5341077692239 530,751C528.2809698265467,733.4658922307761 525.0593661170833,709.9964784282405 522,693C518.9406338829167,676.0035215717595 516.5924944773905,667.6477924805404 512,651C507.40750552260954,634.3522075194596 500.99329134686764,624.1593008376635 498,606C495.00670865313236,587.8406991623365 498.5773444800868,578.3366295810091 497,560C495.4226555199132,541.6633704189909 491.08642895251023,524.9507184776124 490,513C488.91357104748977,501.04928152238756 490.8256250993845,494.9715639410758 490,483C489.1743749006155,471.0284360589242 485.4380417169865,441.17932923485773 484,426C482.5619582830135,410.82067076514227 481.9279895565039,403.21902872666385 481,388C480.0720104434961,372.78097127333615 481.1034147903621,359.8712206909137 479,344C476.8965852096379,328.1287793090863 472.783498744049,317.0038383337113 470,305C467.216501255951,292.9961616662887 469.835202996254,285.25280449438105 463,275C456.164797003746,264.74719550561895 448,264.2 438,257" linkedTo="21"/>
<path id="67377" points="88,514, 90,456, 109,413, 119,369, 144,339, 149,296, 151,248, 154,211, 154,178, 156,139, 161,119, 156,86, 157,58, 168,35, 174,31,lower" d="M88,514C88.8,490.8 86.17207169035652,474.41051234638053 90,456C93.82792830964348,437.58948765361947 103.29246112584417,430.1226166224675 109,413C114.70753887415583,395.8773833775325 112.32128135091672,383.1207194294904 119,369C125.67871864908328,354.8792805705096 138.06245379228972,353.44802910542836 144,339C149.93754620771028,324.55197089457164 147.67193196488947,313.26488445643696 149,296C150.32806803511053,278.73511554356304 150.12806200789908,262.82294586571544 151,248C151.87193799210092,233.17705413428453 153.43480453322314,224.18789422479324 154,211C154.56519546677686,197.81210577520676 153.63347471242733,191.1949103526159 154,178C154.36652528757267,164.8050896473841 155.02845002782053,147.18877833694123 156,139C156.97154997217947,130.81122166305877 161,127.24621125123532 161,119C161,110.75378874876468 156.73331954804146,97.18312310763234 156,86C155.26668045195854,74.81687689236766 154.6642479359063,67.92694627239828 157,58C159.3357520640937,48.073053727601724 166.4631315487192,37.44090871674009 168,35C169.5368684512808,32.55909128325991 171.6,32.6 174,31" linkedTo="28"/>
</drawing>
<legend>
<climb>28</climb>
<climb>20</climb>
<climb>21</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<climb id="20" stars="***" extra="8Þ" number="17." name="Peer Review" length="28m" grade="21" fa="B. Maddison & B. Bull July 2016">Start 3m R of SG, beneath corner and runnels. <br/>1. 15m. Up cracks past 8B to DBB. <br/>2. 13m. Up steep beautiful orange box groove to DBB. Great gear – medium Rocks and cams to 2.5. <br/><br/></climb>
<climb id="21" stars="***" extra="10Þ" number="18." name="Footnote" length="25m" grade="24" fa="B. Maddison May 2016">Start: Beneath the shallow bolted groove just L of the arête that marks the start of the Southern Ocean Face; and 3M R of Peer Review. Great route. <br/><br/>Contrary face and groove climbing up an elegant open book groove past 10 bolts to DBB.<br/><br/>You can link across to Peer Review Pitch 2 from the top of this route.</climb>
<text id="31" class="heading2">Southern Ocean Face</text>
<text id="23" class="text">This area is steep and exposed, containing many strong natural lines on good rock. Excellent and demanding sport, trad and mixed routes. The inspiring position makes the routes here feel bigger than they actually are. <br/><br/>Access: Follow the bottom of Aviary cliffline across and down slabs. Southern Ocean Face begins at the point where the amphitheatre stops and turns right (facing in) i.e At Footnote. A fixed handline keeps you safe as you traverse the ledge to access the routes in the centre and right side of the SO Face. <br/></text>
<image id="34" src="P1000849.jpg" height="683" width="500" legend="true">
<drawing>
<path id="86738" points="61,677, 63,677, 66,625, 77,557, 71,536, 88,433, 104,369, 123,295, 143,277, 150,237, 154,192, 178,170, 206,149, 209,133, 197,127, 201,106, 204,90, 197,76, 191,63, 191,52,belay" d="M61,677C61.106729609713234,676.2071514707017 62.893270390286766,677.7928485292983 63,677C63.106729609713234,676.2071514707017 63.58567352638798,645.6942269166746 66,625C68.41432647361202,604.3057730833254 76.50997876014947,565.7223780693396 77,557C77.49002123985053,548.2776219306604 70.22805199443144,544.7019593355002 71,536C71.77194800556856,527.2980406644998 82.8845461552447,458.8872967295193 88,433C93.1154538447553,407.1127032704807 97.51281448514919,394.5780457442689 104,369C110.48718551485081,343.4219542557311 118.79931760318655,304.9093020642779 123,295C127.20068239681345,285.0906979357221 138.45773815344944,286.7574513740716 143,277C147.54226184655056,267.2425486259284 147.91532891665656,253.1088220076538 150,237C152.08467108334344,220.8911779923462 148.9784005319497,204.01597015569183 154,192C159.0215994680503,179.98402984430817 167.96384309505865,178.2991297483169 178,170C188.03615690494135,161.7008702516831 204.12501702403694,154.02836343553733 206,149C207.87498297596306,143.97163656446267 207.12501702403694,138.02836343553733 209,133C210.87498297596306,127.97163656446268 198.52457796033028,132.14545061611472 197,127C195.47542203966972,121.8545493838853 199.78956115384457,112.39803390110727 201,106C202.21043884615543,99.60196609889273 204.82747577439176,96.20606830793818 204,90C203.17252422560824,83.79393169206182 199.48451776161795,81.1601522741296 197,76C194.51548223838205,70.8398477258704 191.74344078648772,67.33673792117837 191,63C190.25655921351228,58.663262078821624 191.74344078648772,56.336737921178376 191,52" linkedTo="24"/>
<path id="33668" points="389,622, 388,566, 352,537, 343,453, 328,369, 356,341, 375,320, 369,277, 354,236, 344,211, 343,182, 339,150, 329,130, 317,101, 308,84, 297,61, 289,58,lower" d="M389,622C388.6,599.6 395.38016891278846,582.9544420969464 388,566C380.61983108721154,549.0455579030536 358.8411948324224,554.1790003569718 352,537C345.1588051675776,519.8209996430282 347.7789538604176,486.452677022923 343,453C338.2210461395824,419.547322977077 326.1737831342942,384.7335606891578 328,369C329.8262168657058,353.2664393108422 348.1585826240272,349.1750947111206 356,341C363.8414173759728,332.8249052888794 372.7450806675671,331.1011413289004 375,320C377.2549193324329,308.8988586710996 373.2120275961333,293.8481103845331 369,277C364.7879724038667,260.1518896154669 357.8151422226018,246.07197546766875 354,236C350.1848577773982,225.92802453233125 346.1498060651788,221.55359341087768 344,211C341.8501939348212,200.44640658912232 343.9482048118363,193.568098704403 343,182C342.0517951881637,170.431901295597 341.3252734359047,158.63672990478895 339,150C336.6747265640953,141.36327009521105 332.66348793467193,138.15958676358753 329,130C325.33651206532807,121.84041323641246 320.1953231368923,107.99927925224024 317,101C313.8046768631077,94.00072074775976 311.44093010681706,90.8818602136341 308,84C304.55906989318294,77.1181397863659 299.0164415796561,63.759341109003046 297,61C294.9835584203439,58.240658890996954 292.2,59.2 289,58" linkedTo="25"/>
</drawing>
<legend>
<climb>24</climb>
<climb>25</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<climb id="24" stars="***" extra="" number="19." name="Chapter 4" length="45m" grade="20" fa="Ben Maddison & Ingrid Crossland, March 2016">Powerful climbing up a great line. Take a full rack with a fair bit of finger size gear for the first 20 m, a couple of smaller wires for the start of the groove, a sling or two and double 1-2.5 cams. <br/> Start: 1m R. of Footnote, beneath a finger crack and at a U bolt anchor<br/>1. Up the thin crack and groove on the right for 4 m, then step L into the finger crack. Great face and crack climbing in and around the crack. When the finger crack runs out step R into the hanging groove. Great moves, exposure and gear, passing a bolt. Follow line R around rooflet at top of groove and then take cracks direct to belay ledge on top. Descent: rap from rings down to Primavera rap point. Or rap down to Footnote. <br/></climb>
<climb id="25" stars="***" extra="Mixed" number="20." name="Primavera" length="28m" grade="23" fa="Ben Maddison & Ingrid Crossland January 2017">The line going up parallel to and R of Ch 4. Stellar!<br/>Start: 2m. 2m R of Ch 4, beside a big detached block, and at a belay bolt. <br/><br/>Up cracks with good gear to a step R at 15 m. Up increasingly steep ground past 12 bolts, to a final hard section to DBB. From here either lower/ rap the route, OR from belay step L and finish up final corner of Ch4, and descend as for that route. <br/></climb>
<image id="35" width="600" height="856" src="P1000850.jpg">
<drawing>
<path id="75754" points="750,153, 752,153," d="M750,153C750.8,153 751.2,153 752,153"/>
<path id="36151" points="135,853, 169,663, 205,563, 215,411, 225,350, 233,300, 249,275," d="M135,853C148.6,777 159.0247136843772,704.326186164723 169,663C178.9752863156228,621.673813835277 197.36582604281682,604.8219964610905 205,563C212.63417395718318,521.1780035389095 212.68850587481128,435.61741243325986 215,411C217.31149412518872,386.38258756674014 221.75785756875428,369.9932116593487 225,350C228.24214243124572,330.0067883406513 229.381502127884,311.30780585036246 233,300C236.618497872116,288.69219414963754 242.6,285 249,275" linkedTo="26"/>
<path id="72363" points="311,849, 308,828, 266,784, 275,714, 275,673, 269,614, 271,580, 271,503, 268,451, 263,417, 289,380, 289,335, 289,298, 286,263, 281,258," d="M311,849C309.8,840.6 312.82990683139957,834.9765320897993 308,828C303.17009316860043,821.0234679102007 272.76544499692295,807.3715372620975 266,784C259.23455500307705,760.6284627379025 273.6746197522367,730.3463563890807 275,714C276.3253802477633,697.6536436109193 275.98223356793835,689.3705594656387 275,673C274.01776643206165,656.6294405343613 269.58541614259565,627.6109253153483 269,614C268.41458385740435,600.3890746846517 270.75457120356884,593.6212982019293 271,580C271.24542879643116,566.3787017980707 271.4843942999642,523.8289548984619 271,503C270.5156057000358,482.171045101538 269.27322604341913,464.6871799667557 268,451C266.72677395658087,437.3128200332443 259.10116622830907,430.18177132333597 263,417C266.89883377169093,403.81822867666403 283.5596105067893,397.15815147858774 289,380C294.4403894932107,362.84184852141226 289,349.8 289,335C289,320.2 289.5849647073447,312.0391529762718 289,298C288.4150352926553,283.9608470237282 288.39350791876086,264.50702350440497 286,263C283.60649208123914,261.49297649559503 283,260 281,258" linkedTo="29"/>
<path id="38101" points="" d=""/>
<path id="20862" points="" d=""/>
<path id="87876" points="" d=""/>
<path id="28145" points="" d=""/>
<path id="23765" points="274,249,lower 255,272," d="M274,249C271.60649208123914,247.49297649559503 262.6,262.8 255,272"/>
<path id="47018" points="" d=""/>
<path id="85439" points="" d=""/>
<path id="70258" points="541,854, 531,778, 527,712, 517,639, 499,542, 477,375, 459,235,lower" d="M541,854C537,823.6 533.5950110818135,804.3208266869653 531,778C528.4049889181865,751.6791733130347 529.650461942083,738.3153007106811 527,712C524.349538057917,685.6846992893189 521.7897928575087,668.0808852063028 517,639C512.2102071424913,609.9191147936972 504.91167788094407,581.0170740142307 499,542C493.08832211905593,502.98292598576927 484.2948179164173,430.9877275085024 477,375C469.7051820835827,319.0122724914976 466.2,291 459,235" linkedTo="27"/>
</drawing>
<legend>
<climb>26</climb>
<climb>29</climb>
<climb>27</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<climb id="26" stars="**" extra="" number="21." name="One Billion Heart Beats " length="25m" grade="21" fa="Ben Maddison & Ingrid Crossland October 2016">Hueco and flake in centre of face. Start 7 m R of Primavera along ledge, where the ledge kinks up, at U belay bolt and beneath hand crack. Take cams 1-2.5<br/>Up the excellent cracks for 18m and step R and up past bolts to steeper pocket and flake climbing. DBB. <br/></climb>
<climb id="29" stars="*" extra="" number="22." name="The Turning of the Tide" length="25m" grade="22" fa="Ben Maddison & Ingrid Crossland, February 2017">Very good climbing, but loses a star cos it steps L into One Billion Heart Beats for a couple of moves between bolts 5 & 7<br/><br/>Start: At belay bolt for OBHB. Route is the line of 11 bolts R of OBHB<br/><br/>A couple of hard moves get you up the shallow corner to the little roof. Follow line , stepping L after bolt 5, and back R at bolt 7. Great moves up the vertical rail above, to belay of OBHB.</climb>
<climb id="27" stars="**" extra="" number="23." name="Jubila" length="" grade="22" fa="Ben Maddison & Ingrid Crossland January 2017">Excellent mixed route<br/>Start: Double rings at end of ledge<br/>Hard up past 3 rings to trad section. First natural gear is medium blue Offset nut on R of crack/flake). Up steep flakes and pockets (take 2 green cams) to steepening cruxy finish with 4 bolts. DBB<br/></climb>
</guide> |