<guide>
<header id="1" autonumber="true" camping="" access="1. Drive to Buckland (about 60km NE of Hobart on the A3), turn left on the C318. After 3km, turn turn right onto Sand River Rd. About 8km along this the road takes a sharp left land turn, with some dirt tracks coming off it.<br/><br/>2. Take the right hand sandy track. You can drive along this for another 500m before it heads down hill if you have clearance, otherwise park at the start. <br/><br/>3. For the Firewall area, walk down the old fire trail for about 50m, and then follow a red taped track off left through the bracken then down the spur line (as for the Colosseum). The spur ends at the top of a small cliff (Riverside) just above the river. The left side of the Firewall area is visible about 100m to the north (left as you face downhill). The red taped track to the Colosseum descends to the river to the north of Riverside. Part way along this descent, a yellow taped track leads about 100 metres across north to the Firewall. Overall it’s about a ten minute walk from the car park. <br/><br/>4. For the Colosseum area, walk down the old fire trail for about 50m, and then follow a taped track off left through the bracken and down the spur line, passing Riverside Crag near the valley floor.The track then turns back north up the river for about a kilometer through the dense forest which is surprisingly easy walking. Once you're down in the river bed you can't see much, but you will get glimpses of the west facing slabby cliffs up to the right. Keep following the tapes upstream to where the cliff changes direction to face north, and take the right fork of the stream. Cross the stream and follow the tapes up the hill, arriving under the massive roof of Crossing the Rubicon, about 45-50 mins walk from the car.<br/><br/>5. The Panopticon is in the next valley to the south of the Colosseum, to the SE of the parking area. Walk down the old logging track from the car park right down till the track turns to the right. Veer off left and follow a taped line down to the creek and then straight up the hillside the other side to the base of the cliff. The crag is the first major buttress to the left, about 30 mins walk from the car.<br/>" history="" intro="Sand River was discovered in 2017 by Jon Nermut and Dave Humphries and has a lot of potential for routes on surprisingly solid sandstone, in fact some of the best sandstone in Tasmania. The crags are most often dry, north facing and relatively warm in winter. This area provides the best reliable winter climbing in the south of the state. However, avoid easterly wet weather. <br/>The crags are on public Forestry land. The public land extends as far south as the Panopticon, but further south than that it's private. Don't jeopardise access by exploring, climbing or developing on private land without previously negotiating access with the landowners.<br/>The area of the crags is relatively isolated and phone reception limited. It might be advisable to take a PIRB with you in case of emergency as you might otherwise have a longish wait if things go awry.<br/><br/>PLEASE NOTE: it looks like there are Peregrine Falcon nests at The Colosseum, above the Black Sector and maybe above the Cave, and to the East of the Panopticon cliffs. In addition there is an owl roost/nest just above the Colosseum access track as it passes under the cave on Riverside Buttress, and at least 3 wedge tails monitor our climbing on a regular basis.**Please** watch out for nesting birds from August to December, and leave the area if they present." acknowledgement="" rock="Sandstone 15 - 30m high." sun="Sunny" walk="10 - 50 minutes." name="Sand River"/>
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<text class="heading2" id="7">Barbecue Crag</text>
<text class="text" id="8">From the main road take the left fork for a few hundred metres to an open area. This quite small crag is downhill to the left. There are no routes here yet, but it's quite close to the car.</text>
<text class="heading2" id="3">The Firewall</text>
<text class="text" id="4">The Firewall is a beautiful little crag of steep red and orange rock. Its north-easterly aspect sees sun until mid-afternoon, and the crag is sheltered from strong winds. It doesn’t rain much in the area, but when it does most of the routes are steep enough that both the climbs and belay areas stay dry (although sections of the cliff may seep after prolonged heavy rain??).<br/><br/>With a comfortable flat belay areas, a concentration of routes at a range of grades, and its relative closeness to Hobart, the Firewall is a great winter sport climbing crag.<br/><br/>Follow the taped track from the parking area (this track continues to the Colosseum). Routes are described from left to right.</text>
<climb id="18" name="Project stu" fa="" grade="" length="20m" number="1." extra="Þ" stars="">3m left of Lucifer Direct. Slab to roof.</climb>
<climb id="17" name="Lucifer Direct. " fa="Stu Scott, Tony McKenny, Justin Otlowski May 2017" grade="21" length="18m" number="2." extra="Þ" stars="*">Left Hand side of the cliff. Arête with bouldery start.</climb>
<text class="text" id="92">The access track from Riverside reaches the cliff just to the right of Lucifer Direct at a steep slab capped by a roof. The slab has a prominent crackline up its centre, and a left facing layback system on its right side.</text>
<climb id="93" name="Unquenched" fa="O Gervasoni August 2017" grade="21" length="8m" number="3." extra="4Þ" stars="*">Start just left of the crackline. Crank leftwards onto the overhanging rounded arête, then up and over bulge via pockets and horizontals to slab (DBB). Lower off, or step right to finish as for Last of the Breed.</climb>
<climb id="94" name="Last of the Breed" fa="O Gervasoni, August 2017" grade="19" length="19m" number="4." extra="6Þ" stars="**">Starts up the prominent crack line. At the overlap, traverse 3m left then finish up the pillar / arête feature to DBB. The initial crack is well protected with medium to large wires, no other trad gear required.<br/></climb>
<climb id="95" name="Project OG" fa="" grade="" length="8m" number="5." extra="4Þ" stars="">The tendon tearing steep slab of impeccable stone underneath the roof.</climb>
<climb id="96" name="Branded and Shackeled" fa="O Gervasoni, July 2017" grade="19" length="10m" number="6." extra="5Þ" stars="">Shares the initial bouldery start with Glowing Embers, but instead of moving right, mantles left onto the wall above. Once established, climb up the steep wall to a slopey anchor clip. <br/><br/></climb>
<climb id="26" name="Glowing Embers" fa="O Gervasoni, May 2017" grade="21" length="18m" number="7." extra="9Þ" stars="*">On the left end of the main overhanging 'Fire Wall'. Boulder up the short left arete then trend right on immaculate rock to a rest at the base of a pillar. Up pillar to roof, and a strenuous pull on flakes.</climb>
<climb id="81" name="Flash Point" fa="G Phillips 2017" grade="26/27" length="18m" number="8." extra="Þ" stars="**">As for Firewall to the ledge. Then head left and up. Bolts need glueing in . do not climb.</climb>
<climb id="19" name="Firewall" fa="Garry Phillips, Apr 2017" grade="26" length="18m" number="9." extra="Þ" stars="***">A striking line on superb rock.</climb>
<climb id="28" name="Firestarter" fa="G Phillips May 2017" grade="24" length="18m" number="10." extra="Þ" stars="**">Steep climbing over a series of bulges.</climb>
<climb id="91" name="Thor's Hammer" fa="Garry Phillips Aug 2017" grade="26" length="17m" number="11." extra="Þ" stars="***">Easy climbing leads to a bouldery crux.</climb>
<climb id="97" name="Adam Project" fa="" grade="" length="" number="12." extra="" stars=""/>
<text class="heading2" id="5">Riverside Crag</text>
<text class="text" id="6">Riverside Crag is a series of short walls to the south of the junction of Sand River and the fork that heads up towards the Colosseum. You pretty much go past the northern end of it on the current taped track to the Colosseum. It's a bit shadier and mossier than the other crags, but there is potential for several good routes here, and it's not that far from the car.</text>
<text class="heading2" id="9">The Colosseum</text>
<text class="text" id="10">The Colosseum is a very steep north facing crag about 50 minutes walk from the car. The rock is excellent, with some of the best steep sandstone in Tasmania.</text>
<text class="heading3" id="52">Superunknown Buttress</text>
<text class="text" id="53">Another 50m left of Terrastomp is a high vertical wall with a cave at the base.</text>
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<legend>
<climb>77</climb>
<climb>54</climb>
<climb>55</climb>
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<climb id="77" name="Dangeresque" fa="Dave Humphries July 2017" grade="22" length="10m" number="13." extra="6Þ" stars="*">Start on the stepped ledge. Clip the first bolt on Cleganebowl then head for the arete.</climb>
<climb id="54" name="Cleganebowl " fa="Jon Nermut, Aug 2017." grade="22" length="12m" number="14." extra="Þ" stars="**">The smaller buttress to the left of the wall provides good steep climbing.</climb>
<climb id="55" name="De Double Doosh" fa="Dave Humphries Jul 2017." grade="23" length="15m" number="15." extra="10Þ" stars="**">Interesting technical climbing. Climb the wall, using the arête to finish.</climb>
<text class="heading3" id="11">Terrastomp Buttress</text>
<text class="text" id="12">Head around left from the main amphitheatre, past the scramble up to the top, to the next bit of good rock.</text>
<image id="16" legendy="15" legendx="16" legend="true" height="1067" src="IMG_2852.JPG" legendTitle="Terrastomp">
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<legend>
<climb>13</climb>
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<climb id="98" name="Project" fa="" grade="" length="" number="16." extra="" stars="">The face to the left of Terrastomp.</climb>
<climb id="13" name="Terrastomp" fa="Dave Humphries, Jon Nermut, Apr 2017." grade="19" length="10m" number="17." extra="4Þ" stars="**">The lovely short arete. The first route at Sand River.</climb>
<climb id="99" name="The Cheat" fa="Dave Humphries, Aug 2017." grade="20" length="8m" number="18." extra="Þ" stars="*">Steep and fun juggy climbing to the right of Terrastomp, with a fun jump to start and harder move to finish.</climb>
<text class="heading3" id="20">The Cave Sector</text>
<text class="text" id="21">The left hand side of the Colosseum is capped by an enormous roof.</text>
<climb id="68" name="No Name 59" fa="Garry Phillips May 2017" grade="24" length="7m" number="19." extra="Þ" stars="">A very short route finishing at the big horizontal break, at the far left side of the cave.</climb>
<image id="46" legendy="18" legendx="14" legend="true" width="800" height="1067" src="rubicon.JPG" legendTitle="Cave Sector Right Side">
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<climb>34</climb>
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<climb id="34" name="Crossing the Rubicon" fa="Stu Scott and Tony McKenny, May 2017" grade="20" length="20m" number="20." extra="11Þ" stars="**">A stunning line on great rock. The difficulties just keep on coming.<br/>Start at far right hand side of the cave. Climb up the hard bouldery corner (stick clipping the second bolt is the way to go) and hand traverse out left along the very lip of the roof. Up the thin crack to the overhang, with a sensational finish out to the left.</climb>
<climb id="50" name="Project" fa="Stu and Tony" grade="" length="" number="21." extra="" stars="">Line continuing from end of CTR traverse, then up middle of slab</climb>
<text class="heading3" id="15">The Orange Sector</text>
<text class="text" id="22">Around the middle of the Colosseum, on either side of where the creek flows down, is a sector of beautiful orange rock.</text>
<image id="47" legendy="15" legendx="623" legend="true" width="800" height="1096" src="orange_sector.JPG" legendTitle="Orange Sector">
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<climb>29</climb>
<climb>30</climb>
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<climb id="29" name="Hercules" fa="G Phillips May 2017" grade="25" length="15m" number="22." extra="Þ" stars="***">Through the small roof to the break. Then the wall above.</climb>
<climb id="30" name="Hercules Returns" fa="Garry Phillips 2017" grade="25/26" length="15m" number="23." extra="Þ" stars="**">The direct finish to Hercules.<br/>A vicious thin boulder sequence leads to the victory jugs.</climb>
<climb id="14" name="Alea Jacta est" fa="Garry Phillips, Apr 2017." grade="23" length="15m" number="24." extra="Þ" stars="***">On the most orange of rock in the main amphitheatre.</climb>
<climb id="48" name="Alea Jacta est Right Hand Finish" fa="G. Phillips, May 2017" grade="23" length="15" number="25." extra="Þ" stars="**">From the small corner system half way up Alea Jacta est, traverse right along the break and up. <br/>More sustained but less cruxy than the Alea Jacta est.</climb>
<text class="heading3" id="23">The Black Sector</text>
<text class="text" id="24">The right hand side of the main Colosseum area is a mainly black wall with a white face covered with pockets to start.</text>
<climb id="32" name="Lions" fa="O Gervasoni, May 2017" grade="17" length="7m" number="26." extra="4Þ" stars="*">The steep pocketed white wall to DBB under main overhang.</climb>
<climb id="40" name="Fed to the Lions" fa="O Gervasoni, May 2017" grade="24" length="15m" number="27." extra="8Þ" stars="*">From the DBB on Lions, power up the 45 degree overhanging wall above.</climb>
<climb id="66" name="Way of the Dragon" fa="O Gervasoni, June 2017" grade="22" length="14m" number="28." extra="8Þ" stars="**">Classic introduction to steep sandstone climbing.</climb>
<climb id="57" name="No Name 58" fa="Garry Phillips June 2017" grade="25" length="15m" number="29." extra="Þ" stars="**">The bulge to the left of Et tu, Brute</climb>
<climb id="49" name="Et tu, Brute" fa="Garry Phillips, May 2017" grade="26" length="15m" number="30." extra="Þ" stars="**">Campus start leads to some pretty awesome moves above.</climb>
<climb id="39" name="Twenty Million Miles to Earth Project (OG)" fa="" grade="" length="9m" number="31." extra="5Þ" stars="">The overhanging arete at the right end of the Black Sector.</climb>
<text class="heading2" id="58">Plebeian's Wall</text>
<text class="text" id="59">To the south of the Colosseum, about 50m or so right of the Black Sector over a bracken covered scree, is the Plebeian's Wall, featuring steep, clean rock with some excellent routes. A taped line up through the bracken leads up to the top of the cliff.<br/>The area has been developed by a commune of Plebs aka Stu Scott, Tony McKenny, Al Beech, Dave Stephenson, Ivan Riley, Neale Smith, Ben Maddison, and others who have shared in the onerous tasks of cleaning, equipping and belaying the routes to date. <br/>The left hand end of the wall has climbs 20 to 25m high while further right the cliff is broken by a ledge at half height. A smaller wall, Minions Wall, continues further right again<br/>The first route takes a line up the steep prow, left of an orange face.<br/></text>
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<legend>
<climb>60</climb>
<climb>63</climb>
<climb>61</climb>
<climb>69</climb>
<climb>64</climb>
<climb>89</climb>
<climb>65</climb>
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<climb id="60" name="Working Class Heroes " fa="Tony McKenny and the Plebs , June 2017." grade="17" length="20m" number="32." extra="7Þ " stars="*">Varied climbing ending with an exciting steep finish on large jugs over the roof. Can be climbed on the right after the second bolt without using the wobbly rocks if you don't trust them. They have resisted a concerted effort to remove them with bars, hammers and much brute force.</climb>
<climb id="63" name="Riffraff Roof " fa="Tony McKenny and the Plebs, June, 2107. Alt. finish; Tony McKenny, July 2017." grade="18" length="20m" number="33." extra="10Þ " stars="***">Terrific climbing. Starts a couple of metres right of WCH and takes a direct line up the steep glassy wall, finishing leftward via the under-cling.<br/>Alternative finish: instead of completing the under-cling left, bridge up through the overhang directly, clipping the bolt off right (not visible from below). From a large jug out left on the lip, weave a way up and back right to finish at the rap station. Quite exciting but maybe not as good as the original.</climb>
<climb id="61" name="Spartacus" fa="Stu Scott and the Plebs, July 2017." grade="20" length="20m" number="34." extra="9Þ" stars="***">A steep Arapiles-quality wall leads to hard moves over the bulges. Exciting climbing on excellent rock. Magic.</climb>
<climb id="69" name="Memento Mori (project plebs)" fa="Stu and Plebs" grade="" length="20m" number="35." extra="Þ" stars="">Remember, you too will die.....<br/>Takes a line on the wall to the right of Spartacus, Up thin wall to the right facing corner and then traverse right on the orange wall under the roof. Finish steeply over the bulges</climb>
<climb id="88" name="Memento Mori lower half (project)" fa="Stu and the Plebs" grade="18" length="10m" number="36." extra="Þ" stars="">The first half of this climb is worth the effort on its own. Wall climbing fun. In a few weeks we will put in lower offs and belay.<br/></climb>
<climb id="64" name="The Plebeian " fa="Stu Scott and the Plebs, July 2017." grade="23" length="22m" number="37." extra="13Þ" stars="**">Thoughtful wall climbing to the ledge, then blast on up the superb red wall and roof on smallish holds.</climb>
<climb id="89" name="Via Appia" fa="Ivan Riley and the Plebs." grade="11" length="10m" number="38." extra="5Þ" stars="">A steep little wall to start then climb the massive left facing flake crack. Rap station below start of Plebs Rustikus Project. Access climb for upper climbs, or as a simple beginners climb.</climb>
<text class="text" id="90">The next climbs start from a ledge at half height, accessed by by the Via Appia (Grade 11), or by abseiling in. Obey the road rules and keep to the left and DO NOT go near the two massive flakes or the dirty gully on the right (especially nasty dragons).</text>
<climb id="65" name="Plebs Rustikus (Project)" fa="Ivan and the Plebs" grade="" length="12m" number="39." extra="5Þ" stars="">Climbs up and over the right pointing overhang.</climb>
<climb id="84" name="Tory Tossers" fa="Dave S and Plebs" grade="21" length="11m" number="40." extra="Þ" stars="*">Complex and cool.</climb>
<climb id="71" name="The Proletariat (project)" fa="Neale and the Plebs" grade="" length="9m" number="41." extra="5Þ" stars="">The next line right on overhanging orange wall. Nice moves on hard water washed stone.</climb>
<text class="heading2" id="73">Minions Wall<br/></text>
<text class="text" id="74">To the right of the start of Via Appia is an obvious break in the cliff line, capped by the dangerously loose flakes and a particularly dirty gully. Further right again is a short, steep wall of excellent sandstone.</text>
<climb id="75" name="Buckoboys 17 (Project)" fa="The Plebs" grade="17 " length="10m" number="42." extra="Þ" stars="">Climbs the shallow corners, finishing over the roof on right at the very top.</climb>
<climb id="78" name="Hoi Polloi" fa="Tony McKenny and The Plebs" grade="18" length="10m" number="43." extra="3Þ " stars="">Climb the short bulging wall: for the best of the technical climbing, keep to the nose of the buttress, avoiding the temptations of the Minion's crack line to the right. Belay as for Buckoboys 17. Fun stuff.</climb>
<climb id="70" name="Minions " fa="Neale Smith and the Plebs, July, 2017." grade="19" length="12m" number="44." extra="6Þ" stars="">Technical climbing on small holds up the water washed groove, a metre right of Hoi Polloi. Well worthwhile and a great warm up.</climb>
<text class="heading2" id="35">The Panopticon</text>
<text class="text" id="36">Named after Panoptes, in Greek mythology; he was a giant with a hundred eyes – the views from the crag certainly are superb. Port Arthur Prison was modelled on the Panopticon - the prisoner thought they were being watched from the central watchtower even when they were not..<br/>Follow the tapes up the hill from the stream bed to a cairn and walk left along the crag base for 20m or so to the foot of the first major buttress. A fun day out for mortals, especially in winter.<br/>To the right of the cairn is apparently private land - there lie dragons so please keep off until access is established.<br/></text>
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<legend>
<climb/>
<climb>42</climb>
<climb>37</climb>
<climb>43</climb>
<climb>44</climb>
<climb>45</climb>
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<climb id="42" name=" Crime and Punishment " fa="Dave Stephenson, Stu Scott and Tony McKenny, June 2017." grade="16" length="17m" number="45." extra="7Þ " stars="">Climbs the left hand arête.</climb>
<climb id="37" name="First Offence " fa="Tony McKenny, Stu Scott and Dave Stephenson, June 2017." grade="17" length="16m" number="46." extra="7Þ" stars="*">Starts at base of thin crack, a couple of metres right of Arête.</climb>
<climb id="43" name="Impeachment " fa="Stu Scott, and Tony McKenny, June 2017." grade="18" length="17m" number="47." extra="7Þ " stars="*">Climbs the steep wall a couple of metres right of First Offence, finishing up the arête.</climb>
<climb id="44" name="Special Prosecutor " fa="Stu Scott, Dave Stephenson and Tony McKenny, June 2017." grade="18" length="17m" number="48." extra="8Þ" stars="">Climbs the right hand arête and trends right, sharing a bolt at mid height with Impeachment before climbing the steep head wall on the right.</climb>
<climb id="62" name="Join the Dots" fa="Stu Scott, and Tony McKenny, June 2017." grade="18" length="17m" number="49." extra="8Þ " stars="**">A good alternative combination, at about the same grade, is to climb the first section of Special Prosecutor to the shared bolt, and finish up the top arête of Impeachment.</climb>
</guide> |