<guide version="2"> <header access="See the map in the Gunners Quoin section. Access to the crag is from the East Derwent Highway. About 5km north from the Bowen Bridge the road crosses a creek mouth just prior to Cassidy Rd. Turn R onto Cassidy road and immediately park near the old iron gate. Go through the old iron gate and follow a vague intermittent path up the creek valley passing the first minor tributary (not shown on thesarvo map) on the right at about 400m from start, then reaching an old iron shed built on the valley floor about 450m from start. At the shed cross the creek to the south bank and follow cairns on the south bank around to the next, much larger, tributary (after a total of about 600m); here the valley opens to a large, grassy basin which is a good place to scope out the cliffs. The first cliffs visible above the start of this grassy basin are a minor subsidiary buttress (mostly grey rock), while both Monkey's Bum Main Cliff (mostly orange rock) and Mad Monkeys become visible 50m further on where the grassy basin leads up into the rightward/south tributary. " acknowledgement="by Matt Perchard, originally published in Craglets." history="" intro="There are only a few routes on this crag but they are real honeys. It is definitely worth at least one visit - the main buttress (composed of orange sandstone) overhangs on every side! A degree of uncertainty exists as to the historical accuracy of the route names and first ascentionists that are quoted here. Several routes from the sixties by the likes of Terry Costigan and John Moore have been omitted due to lack of knowledge. I’m sure this won’t detract from your climbing pleasure - hopefully the best of the routes here have been adequately described." name="Monkey's Bum" rock="Short steep sandstone buttresses" sun="All day sun" walk="20 min" id="1" camping="" autonumber="false"/> <text class="text" id="2">The following routes are on the main buttress - the only cliff of decent height in this area.</text> <climb extra="" grade="20" length="15m" name="Gonard" number="" stars="" id="3" fa="FTRA Richard Marshall, Richard Cockerill, Phil Schwan Dec 1994.">Wall L of the Snatch.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="17" length="15m" name="The Snatch" id="4" fa="Doug Fife, Oct 1980." stars="*" number="">Climb the nose of the main buttress moving slightly left near the top. This is an excellent route to top rope but is not recommended as a lead.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="20" length="15m" name="Poha" number="" stars="**" id="5" fa="Peter Jackson, May 1980 (used one piton on upper section, now gone).">Start on the right side of the nose of the buttress and climb to the thread on the arête. The climbing steepens from here. Near the top move to the face on the right then finish straight up. Gear exists for leading this route but it looks a tad bold to me.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="24" length="15m" name="Unknown" id="6" fa=" Nathan Duhig TR" stars="*" number="">The steep wall 1-2m right of Poha with lovely rock at the top. A few variant starts are possible.</climb> <text class="text" id="7">About 20m right of the main buttress is a sub-buttress capped by a two metre roof.</text> <climb extra="" grade="22" length="10m" name="Gasher" id="8" fa="Gerry Narkowicz, Jun 1982.">The two metre roof. A small wire can supposedly be placed just under the roof. Probably another bold route if leading but definitely good fun on a top rope.</climb> <text class="text" id="9">Another 100m right of the main buttress is another outcrop with some routes.</text> <climb extra="" grade="21" length="8m" name="Overhang" id="10">Climb the crack ... yeah, right!</climb> <climb extra="" grade="17" length="7m" name="The B Got Another One" number="" stars="" id="11" fa="Matt Perchard, Aug 1991.">Climb straight up until below the bulge on the left of the face. Clip the bolt, then ascend the arête.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="23" length="7m" name="Who Blunted Mr Squiggles Tool" stars="" id="12" fa="Matt Perchard, Aug 1991." number="">Start midway along the small face. Climb up to clip the bolt, then continue straight up the slab/face.</climb> <climb extra="" grade="18" length="7m" name="Miss Jane" number="" stars="" id="13" fa="Owen Prall, 1991.">The right-hand arête of the face. Climb easily up to the ledge at one third height. Clip the bolt then continue up the arête (crux).</climb> </guide> |