Mt Lyell, near Queenstown has a large number of conglomerate boulders within 10 minutes walk from the road that would have some excellent problems if someone gets around to developing them. The rock is solid and clean (no lichen), but it conglomerate, so a little sharp.
The big hurdle is the 4 hour drive from Hobart.
Here are some pics:
<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> <guide> <header id="20" name="Mt Lyell Boulders" walk="15-90 min" sun="Afternoon" rock="Conglomerate" acknowledgement="By Moses Bassett" intro="The Mt Lyell boulder field is a huge exspanse of conglomerate boulders spread all over the slopes of Mt Lyell, just outside Queenstown. If you dont mind climbing on conglomerate then the potential here is huge! There are small sit starts all the way to Adamsfield like giants. The rock is good as the bits that are going to break are obvious and the rest is solid. The steepslope of the Mountain makes keeping your pad in the right spot the only real landing issue. " history="Jon Nermut did some exploring and posted some photos back in 2005 and the recent development was started in 2014." access="Mt Lyell is 10 minutes out of Queenstown on the Lyell Highway, 2 hours from Burnie or 4 from Hobart. Coming from Burnie, go through Queenstown and just past Gormanston you will see the boulders on the left side of the road. Just before a small bridge a gravel road goes off to the right, park here. There is a small creek heading perpendicular to road, follow this to some thick bush bashing and two creek crossing before starting the ascent. The lowest boulder is 10 minutes from here and then they continue all the way up the Mt. " camping="I asssume you could just camp on the side of the road anywhere here." autonumber="false"/> <text id="7" class="heading3">The Good, Bad And Ugly.<br/><br/></text> <image id="5" src="lyell 1.jpg" height="338" width="600" printLayout="auto"/> <text id="10" class="text">This boulder is the obvious over hang to the left of the field.</text> <problem id="8" stars="" extra="(SDS)" number="1" name="Bad" length="" grade="V2" fa="">Start on two small crimp swith poor feet, big move to another crimp and jugs to finsh.</problem> <problem id="9" stars="" extra="(Highball, Stand)" number="2" name="Good" length="" grade="V1" fa="">Straight up obvious line with good top out.</problem> <problem id="11" stars="" extra="(Highball, Stand)" number="3" name="Ugly" length="" grade="V3?" fa="">Project.<br/>The over hanging part of this boulder has a seam all the way around it, un sure on stability/saftey.</problem> <text id="14" class="heading3">The Lone Ranger Boulder</text> <image id="16" src="DSC_0793.JPG" height="393" width="700"/> <text id="19" class="text">This boulder is located roughly in the middle of the field maybe 20m higher then the Good Bad and Ugly boulder. It has one of the better landings to be found. Behind it are some fun VE highballs.</text> <problem id="17" stars="" extra="(Highball, Stand)" number="1" name="1.Lone Ranger" length="" grade="V2" fa="">Start standing under the highest point of the boulder, move straight up with good feet and two small left crimps before gaining the ledge and an easy top out.</problem> <problem id="18" stars="**" extra="(Highball, Stand)" number="2" name="2. Tonto" length="" grade="V3" fa="">The best line on this boulder. There are few pockets that make obvious holds, start under these with big moves to link them and a good high jug to finish.</problem> </guide> |