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<header id="1" access="The Columns can be accessed by either a top-down or a bottom-up approach. <br/><br/>The means of access for routes on Battlements, Split and Cossack Columns is predominantly a top-down approach. To access the top of the Columns drive to the summit. Right of the summit lookout (GPS MTW100), head down to pick up a track with orange markers that descends to the top of the Columns amongst a patch of snow gums (GPS MTW110). For detailed notes on access to individual columns from this waypoint, consult the body of the text. <br/><br/>The means of access for routes on Cairn Column and Double Column, is predominantly a bottom-up approach. To access the base of the Columns drive to the climbers' carpark and follow the track uphill to the Organ Pipes track junction, then continue up the Northern Buttress track or the Flange Buttress track. For detailed notes on access to individual columns from this track junction consult the body of the text.<br/>" acknowledgement="" history="" intro="The impressive cirque of columns that starts from Flange Buttress and ends where it merges with Amphitheatre Ledge. The experience of climbing in the Columns is often character building and sometimes epic! Routes here are steeper, more serious and increasingly tradified than those on nearby Flange or Northern Buttresses. The Shipwreck provides a good vantage point from the base of the cliff for learning the topography of the Columns. Five distinct columns in L to R order aid route finding.<br/><br/>At the LH end, the deep chimney of Brown Madonna marks the end of Flange Buttress and the start of the Columns. Cairn Column is the first column right of this demarcation zone. The trio of Battlements Column, Split Column and Double Column sit closely together in the centre of the Columns, whilst Cossack Column occupies the head of the cirque at the RH end." name="The Columns" rock="Spearing dolerite columns, up to 110m high" sun="Morning sun" walk="15 min downhill or 20 min uphill" camping="" autonumber="true"/>
<text class="heading3" id="96">The Columns Overview</text>
<image id="120" width="1000" height="737" src=" columns overall straightened 2000.jpg" legend="true" legendTitle="The Columns Overview" legendx="824" legendy="628" legendFooter="(Image straightened to correct for lense distortion)">
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<rect style="yellow_outline" id="59707" width="137" height="357" x="852" y="7" text="Cossack Column"/>
<rect style="yellow_outline" id="54275" width="90" height="264" x="506" y="53" text="Split Column"/>
<rect style="yellow_outline" id="52476" width="94" height="400" x="605" y="53" text="Double Column"/>
<rect style="yellow_outline" id="91569" width="170" height="542" x="328" y="53" text="Battlements Column"/>
<rect style="yellow_outline" id="26720" width="284" height="525" x="37" y="176" text="Cairn Column Area"/>
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<image id="2" width="900" height="660" src="the columns access.png">null</image>
<text class="heading2" id="64">Cairn Column</text>
<text class="text" id="94">Cairn Column is the prominent column at the LH end of the Columns. It stands on a ramp of broken rock that forms the base of the southern columns. A pile of rocks on the summit of this column resembles a cairn. Routes on Cairn Column are predominantly accessed using a bottom-up approach.</text>
<text class="text" id="99">Bottom-Up Access<br/>For access to routes on Cairn Column walk left along the Organ Pipes Track for approximately 150m, arriving at a climbers' track junction (GPS MTW030) that heads right to Flange Buttress. The track heads up initially through bush, then follows a prominent boulder lead to reenter the bush close to the base of the cliff near Bert's Fear, an obvious body-width chimney on Flange Buttress. Take the right fork and follow the base of cliff uphill to the reach Brown Madonna, a right facing corner and chimney that marks the end of Flange Buttress. Routes in the Cairn Column area start immediately right of here. Rap stations exist at the top of Brown Madonna (1 x 50m), Tower of Power (1 x 60m), the Best Route in the Gorge (1 x 15m), Serendipidy (1 x 40m) and the Brush Tail Extension (1 x 30m; 1 x 50m). For other routes use the Bert's Fear rap route (GPS MTW170), (1 x 15m; 1 x 35m; 1 x 50m).</text>
<text class="text" id="100">Top-Down Access<br/>For access to routes on Cairn Column walk R of the patch of snow gums (GPS MTW110) as viewed looking towards Hobart. Walk along the cliffline past Double Column, then past Split Column with its distinctive twin 'ears' of rock, then past Battlements Column with its large sloping capping rock, to reach Cairn Column a short distance further on. It is distinguished by a pile of rocks on top that resemble a cairn.</text>
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<climb id="81" number="1." name="Pink Car" extra="↓" grade="16" length="50m" stars="*" fa="M. McHugh, L. Closs, R. McMahon, Nov 1971.">An unassuming route that takes the crack line 1m R of Brown Madonna. <br/>1. 25m. Climb the vee-chimney to the hanging flake on the L. Move out R, up the wall and then climb the crack on the L. <br/>2a. 25m. Original Route: Continue up for 15m and take the L line to the large ledge at the top of Brown Madonna. <br/>2b. 25m. Direct Route: Straight up to a large ledge. From here traverse L to the Brown Madonna rap anchors.</climb>
<climb id="80" number="2." name="The Great Bitch" extra="↓" grade="19" length="55m" stars="**" fa="L. Closs, I. Lewis, Dec 1973.">A superb mix of face and crack climbing on the steep wall 8m R of Brown Madonna. A memorable first ascent in that one of the intrepid leaders had left a boot at home, necessitating a boot being lowered to his second after each lead!<br/>1. 35m 19. Climb the short thin wall to reach some precariously stacked blocks. Move L and up the crack awkwardly to negotiate the bulge. Easier climbing up the line leads to a stance at the top of a pillar on the R wall. Steep jamming leads to a belay next to a spike. <br/>2. 20m 17. Continue up chimney/corner past a short layback section. About 12m above the belay a narrow foot traverse leads out L to the Brown Madonna ledge and rap anchors (50m).</climb>
<climb id="79" number="3." name="Canis Minor" extra="↓" grade="19" length="62m" stars="*" fa="M. Jackson, H. Jackson, Apr 1998.">A worthwhile and unique route for the Organ Pipes, taking the LHS side of the Tower of Power. <br/>1. 35m 19. Climb the first pitch of the Great Bitch.<br/>2. 27m 18. Continue up the chimney/corner past a short layback section as for Great Bitch. At the top of the corner instead of traversing L, swing R on to the face of the pillar looming above. Up the intermittent layback cracks between horizontals, using the R arête at times. Rap off as for Tower of Power (60m).</climb>
<climb id="78" number="4." name="The Tower of Power" extra="19Þ ↓" grade="25" length="60m" stars="***" fa="N. Hancock, D. McConnell, Dec 2003.">"I can stand about an hour on the Tower of Power; as long as I gets a little golden shower" (Frank Zappa). The massive arête 7m R of the Great Bitch. Climb face and arête with the crux at one-third height. A # 1 Camalot or #2 Friend may be useful about 3/4 way up to avoid a run out section. Trend L near the end to finish at rap station on top of the tower (1 x 60m).</climb>
<climb id="77" number="5." name="Best Route in the Gorge " extra="4Þ ↓" grade="24" length="15m" stars="*" fa="D. McConnell, Nov 2003.">A spurious claim or what? Scramble up scrubby ledges R of Tower of Power to a sloping stance with a DBB. Climb the thin face and blunt arête. Rap station with 2 fixed hangers.</climb>
<climb id="76" number="6." name="Birthday Treat" extra="" grade="18" length="27m" stars="" fa="D. Fife, Phil Steane, 1982.">An exception to the bottom-up approach. Accessed by abseiling 45m from the top of the Columns to a large bushy tree. Climb the hand and fist crack in a shallow orange corner to the L of the final pitches of Piccolo.</climb>
<text class="text" id="67">The descent for routes between Piccolo and F-Sharp is via the rap station above Bert's Fear (GPS MTW170) unless otherwise stated: (1) 15m from boulder to ledge; (2) 35m to Brown Madonna terrace; (3) 50m via Brown Madonna rap station to the deck.</text>
<climb id="75" number="7." name="Piccolo" extra="" grade="16" length="90m" stars="" fa="T. Christie, A. Keller, Jan 1966.">The notoriously tight chimney behind the Tower of Piccolo (the small pillar above and R of the Tower of Power). Start well to the R of the main climb below a scrubby terrace. <br/>1. 40m. Climb easily to the terrace that leads L to the start of the Firebird and Pooh Corner chimneys. <br/>2. 15m. Piccolo Wall. A few metres L of Firebird is an unlikely looking wall which overhangs in places. This pitch finishes on a large sloping scrubby ledge. <br/>3. 30m. Piccolo Chimney. Ascend the chimney at the far L of this ledge, which narrows uncomfortably at the halfway point and finishes on the crest of the Flange Buttress. <br/>4. 5m. Tower of Piccolo. Start on the south side and gain the summit of the tower by transferring to the west side. Vacate the tower by a spectacular but easy leap – or so they say...</climb>
<climb id="74" number="8." name="Serendipity" extra="↓" grade="19" length="40m" stars="**" fa="P. Robinson, C. Hewer, K. Robinson, Dec 2005.">A clean corner line found halfway up the cliff. Access from bottom via a scramble and climb up to the base of Piccolo Wall, L of Firebird, and climb the 15m wall to the base of twin corner cracks. It is possible to access from above but this requires leaving a fixed rope and jugging out upon completion. The climb follows the corner with a thin crack on the L to the ledge 20m from the top of the Pipes. One third of the way up where the crack thins, there are two alternatives: (a) go straight up; (b) traverse L onto the arête, up 3m then back R into the corner. Continue up the LHS of the corner past a small tree and up a layback crack. Move R onto the slab and scramble L to the DBB bolts. Rap off and scramble back down. The line above has been climbed (Gr 20) but is deemed suitable only for masochists.</climb>
<climb id="73" number="9." name="Firebird" extra="" grade="18" length="65m" stars="" fa="J. Ewbank, V. Kennedy, Mar 1968.">A direct line marred somewhat by loose rock and vegetation in places. Start 15m L of Cymbal. Scramble 40m as for Pooh Corner to a scrubby terrace beneath two chimneys. <br/>1. 25m. Up the LH chimney past loose rocks at 15m to a claustrophobic stance in the chimney.<br/>2. 20m. Continue up the heavily vegetated chimney and corner to a good stance below the final corner.<br/>3. 20m. Crux. Straight up corner above to a ledge, then up the nasty scrubby corner above. Might be a tad undergraded by today's standards, and more vegetated than when it was first climbed.</climb>
<climb id="72" number="10." name="Pooh Corner" extra="" grade="17" length="72m" stars="*" fa="J. Ewbank, V. Kennedy, Mar 1968.">Worth doing on the basis of the first pitch alone. Scramble 40m (15m L of pitch 1 of Cymbal - vegetated and a bit loose in places) to initial chimney in the R of a small square amphitheatre, 2m R of Firebird. <br/>1. 42m. Climb up via an awkward chockstone crux to a sloping grassy stance among bushes. <br/>2. 30m. Continue up, passing a bush, and from the grassy ledge continue up chimney on L to top (Cymbal takes the R corner - probably the best way to go to avoid the vegetation).</climb>
<climb id="127" number="11." name="He spoke human" extra="" grade="24" length="32m" stars="**" fa="Simon Bischoff, German Soler, Jan 28 2014">Climbs the dihedral and face to the right of Pooh corner.<br/>Equipped with 3 bolts on the final rooflette and slab. Even with the bolts this route should not be taken upon lightly especially if taken ground up. Ball nuts are very useful and micro cams are essential. Apart from the nauseatingly thin gear and a few loose blocks at the beginning the climbing is fantastic and some of it is protected with bolts! Rap anchors (32m). <br/></climb>
<climb id="71" number="12." name="Whodunnit" extra="" grade="19" length="126m" stars="" fa="N. Deka, T. McKenny, Feb 1990.">This route may have been climbed earlier, as there is an old peg of unknown origin on the third pitch. Takes the obvious crack line immediately L of Cymbal pitch 2.<br/>1. 36m. As for Cymbal. Easy climbing, bushy. <br/>2. 30m. Start up a short layback and step R into the crack. Up this until a small ledge is gained in a widening of the crack line. <br/>3. 30m. Launch up the offwidth above and continue through a small roof (peg) then slightly R to finish on the Cymbal belay ledge. <br/>4. 30m. Finish up one of the Cymbal pitch 3 variants (first ascent took the Original Route).</climb>
<climb id="117" number="13." name="Anomia" extra="" grade="24" length="60m" stars="***" fa="R. Parkyn, H. Hancock, April 2013.">Climbs the orange buttress L of Tularaemia. Access by continuing R and upwards from the bottom of Tower of Power. <br/>1. 33m 22. Varied and unusual climbing; 13 U's. <br/>2. 25m 24. Steep and juggy climbing leads to a crux after clipping the fourth U; 7 U's.<br/>Note: if descending on a single 60m rope it is probably best to go down via the belay on Aphasia as then both raps should be within the 30m range (I haven't done it though so I'm not 100% sure about the top rap!!).</climb>
<climb id="118" number="14." name="Aphasia" extra="" grade="24" length="28m" stars="***" fa="R. Parkyn, D. Rollins, May 2013. ">Climb Anomia to the fourth bolt and then wander easily a few metres R to below the shallow groove. The fun begins! Sustained and interesting climbing to DBB (which is about 5m below the belay for Anomia 1 - it is possible to scramble up to that belay if needed).</climb>
<climb id="70" number="15." name="Cymbal" extra="" grade="15" length="108m" stars="**" fa="D. McKelvey, T. Terry, Jan 1966. Deep Chimney: M. Douglas, J. Morley, Jan 1966.">A unique subterranean experience with a swag of variants. <br/>1. 36m. Easy but vegetated scrambling over loose rock to the base of two chimneys immediately L of Cairn Column. <br/>2a. 42m. Probably the better of the two choices. Climb the LH chimney over the jammed blocks and then continue up the excellent crack and chimney continuation until a large platform is reached on the L. <br/>2b. 42m. Deep Chimney. Takes the RH line up crack that opens out into a deep chimney with a prominent chockstone. Near the top either traverse L and up to the large platform as in (a) or continue up to a ledge on the R to access The Vice. At this point it is highly recommended to climb The Vice or another of the variant pitches listed below. However, if you wish to climb the original pitch instead, who are we to stop you? <br/>3. 30m 15. Drop (not literally) off the LH edge of the platform onto a ledge and belay in the corner. Climb up past the vegetation and up the RH corner exiting behind a huge chockstone in the roof. Either climb the chockstone crack above or make an exposed traverse L into a chimney and surmount the chockstones.</climb>
<climb id="86" number="16." name="Cymbal Named Variants" extra="" grade="16/20" length="30m" stars="*" fa="Dick the Despot, A. Adams, N. Deka, May 1991. Jungle Jim, N. Deka, A. Adams, May 1991. The Vice, J. Ewbank, V. Kennedy, Mar 1968.">It was once fashionable to climb these named variants as alternatives to the final pitch of Cymbal. Contemporary trends in access now utilise a top-down approach to reach ther starts. Immediately right of the top of Cairn Column as viewed looking towards Hobart, set up anchors and abseil 30m to the large ledge at the end of Cymbal pitch 2.<br/>Dick the Despot. 20. The obvious off-width crack directly above the ledge. A #4 camalot makes the crux at 7m a lot more palatable! Continue up the widening crack and exit R onto the face where necessary.<br/>Jungle Jim. 18. Needs a bit of a clean! The twin cracks 3m R of Dick the Despot. Stem and chimney up past the vegetation until near the top. Revert to jamming the RH line up and over the summit bush.<br/>The Vice. 16. A great pitch that has been neglected for many years. The corner with twin cracks 5m R of Jungle Jim.<br/></climb>
<climb id="119" number="17." name="No Beginning and No End " extra="" grade="19M0" length="20m" stars="*" fa="P.Robinson, K.Robinson, April 2013.">A crazy line starting at a seam halfway up the south side Cairn Column. Rap 40m from the top of Cairn Column to an airy hanging belay at the base of a thin crack on the south side of the column. Probably safer for the belayer to stay attached to the abseil line. Pleasant climbing up the face and thin finger crack to a ledge. Follow the fist size crack until it widens to a crux 3-4 metres from the top. DBB at a platform on ‘The Brush Tail Extension’. Exit by prussik or climb the last pitch of Brush Tail (28).<br/> <br/></climb>
<climb id="91" number="18." name="Tularaemia" extra="Þ ↓" grade="25/28" length="80m" stars="***" fa="C. Hewer (p1&2), K. Robinson (p3&4), Jan-Feb 2012.">Climbs the arête of Cairn Column. From the base of Brown Madonna scramble up and R for about 100m to the spectacular orange face below the overhangs at the bottom of the Column. <br/>1. 30m 25. A sustained and technical pitch, step R onto the face at the 4th bolt then up through the overhang and arête above. 20 bolts. <br/>2. 20m 24. Balancy climbing continues up the arête. 15 bolts.<br/>The next two pitches, known as "The Brush Tail Extension", add 30m of additional climbing to Tularaemia and increases the grade.<br/>3. 15m 27 . Fridge climbing up the two arêtes to a tricky finish. 8 bolts.<br/>4. 15m 28 . Straight forward climbing interspersed with a thought provoking boulder problem. 8 bolts.</climb>
<climb id="69" number="19." name="Firebrand" extra="" grade="20" length="80m" stars="*" fa=" Pitches 1 & 2, and 3 to within 10m of the top: J. Moore, P. Jackson, R. Williams, Mar 1967. Pitch 3 done with aid by C. Dewhirst, J. Moore, Feb 1968. FFA: M. Steane, J. Burgess, Apr 1976.">Recently upgraded from 17 to restore some battered and fried egos. The conspicuous black, dirty, sometimes wet, chimney (sounds a cracker doesn't it!) on RH side of Cairn Column. Scramble for a couple of rope-lengths through the mulga to the foot of the chimney. <br/>1. 33m. Straight up corner to belay above numerous dead bushes. <br/>2. 27m. Up narrow chimney to belay above a large pile of chockstones. <br/>3. 20m. Bridge and jam up the line, then L through roofs, to finish back R (crux).</climb>
<climb id="68" number="20." name="F-Sharp" extra="" grade="18" length="100m" stars="" fa="J. Ewbank, V. Kennedy, Mar 1968. FFA: D. Bowman, L. Wood, Dec 1977.">Difficulties are confined to a small section at the end of pitch 2, but loose and mossy rock makes the route a serious undertaking. Start almost directly below Daedalus at a small embayment in the base of the cliff, below a double crack line that cuts the upper part of the cliff. <br/>1. 34m. Follow one of two lines from the top of a small gully to a stance adjacent to a bush. <br/>2. 30m. Climb the fine corner crack, over a bulge split by two cracks (crux), to a large stance. <br/>3. 36m. Up the crack and off-width line above to the top.</climb>
<text class="heading2" id="41">Battlements Column</text>
<text class="text" id="97">Battlements Column is a forward-standing column capped by three turret-like rocks that is situated in the centre of the Columns. When viewed in profile, a large slab of rock caps the detached summit tower, connecting it with the main cliff. Routes on Battlements Column are predominantly accessed using a top-down approach.</text>
<text class="text" id="103">Top-Down Access<br/>For access to routes on Battlements Column walk R of the patch of snow gums (GPS MTW110) as viewed looking towards Hobart. Walk along the cliffline past Double Column, then past Split Column with its distinctive twin 'ears' of rock, to reach Battlements Column with its large sloping capping rock. A rap station next to the capping rock provides access to the start of Freedom (1 x 30m). In the gully to the R of the capping rock and down 15m is the Daedalus rap station (1 x 55m – GPS MTW150). which accesses routes from the ledge at the start of Icarus pitch two.</text>
<text class="text" id="104">Bottom-Up Access<br/>For access to routes on Battlements Column, follow the Northern Buttress track uphill to the base of Northern Buttress (GPS MTW010). Take the LH fork and follow the track up to the Shipwreck (a large rock that some folks think resembles a shipwreck). To approach Battlements Column from here walk straight across across the gully to the base of the column. Descent from routes requires a short walk around the cliff line to Cossack Column Rap station (1 x 6m; 1 x 50m) or a scramble down Exit/Entry<br/></text>
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<climb id="82" number="21." name="Armchair Ethics" extra="↓" grade="23" length="35m" stars="" fa="A. Lewis, S. Young, Jan 2011.">Accessed via top-down approach. Fix abseil rope to the Daedalus rap bolts, then walk south 4m to abseil 35m down the steep dihedral L of Once in a Lifetime, passing a small ledge 6m down. Belay on a pillar with a big tree as an anchor. Follow finger crack/seams back to the top, moving L onto face for a few metres at half height to avoid fused section. Well protected (take lots of tips/fingers size gear), with a bouldery crux at the top.</climb>
<climb id="63" number="22." name="Once in a Lifetime" extra="18Þ ↓" grade="26" length="55m" stars="***" fa="N. Hancock, Jan 2008.">Hancock’s better half doubted his ability to send this baby after three years of repeated spankings! A sustained long pitch in a great position. Rap in from the Daedalus bolts and swing L across face to a small ledge with DBB (60m abseil). Climb the arête L of Daedalus in one monster pitch. Technical moves with good rests.</climb>
<climb id="62" number="23." name="Daedalus" extra="↓" grade="20" length="55m" stars="**" fa="H. Barber, L. Wood, Apr 1975.">Get in shape for Yosemite. The classic crack on the wall L of Claret Corner. Rap in from the top via the U-bolt rap anchors (55m) to the large ledge at the base. <br/>1. 35m. Enter the crack a couple of metres below the bottom L corner of the ledge. Climb easily for about 13m to a pea-pod scoop. Climb the steep off-width crack for 6m, passing a very old bolt (not recommended for use, originally placed by Ewbank during an early 1960s attempt), then move onto the L wall for another 6m before returning to the crack. <br/>2. 20m. Continue up the crack to the top.</climb>
<climb id="61" number="24." name="Cruel But Fair" extra="↓" grade="23" length="25m" stars="*" fa="R. Parkyn, Feb 1998.">Access from above using the U-bolts at the top of Daedalus to abseil down to another pair 25m down the wall. Follow the finger crack back up to the top. Good natural pro all the way in a range of sizes.</climb>
<climb id="60" number="25." name="Claret Corner" extra="↓" grade="15" length="109m" stars="*" fa="D. Groom, A. Keller, J. Moore, Dec 1967. (3b): T. McKenny, J. McKenny, Mar 2002.">The route up the corner full of immense jammed chocks in between Daedalus and Icarus. Start at base of the cliff directly below the corner<br/>1. 40m. Climb initial crack and continue up to large ledge at foot of main corner.<br/>2. 34m. Climb the corner to a recessed stance. <br/>3a. 35m 14. Continue up chimney. Some loose rock near top. <br/>3b. 25m 16. From the recessed stance, step L and climb thin crack until a move can be made back R onto the face L of chimney. Bridge and face climb to top, finishing over bulge. Avoids the slippery and difficult chimney. Rap station as for Daedelus.</climb>
<climb id="59" number="26." name="Icarus" extra="↓" grade="20" length="78m" stars="***" fa="C. Dewhirst, J. Ewbank, Feb 1968 (3 bongs were used on the first ascent on pitch 2 for a rest, and 3 pegs to protect pitch 3). FFA: H. Barber, L. Wood, Apr 1975.">You can't train for this sucker in the gym. This sensational line is on the LH face of Battlements Column, below the monolithic boulder wedged across the notch between the pillar and main wall. Once climbed from the ground up, this is now avoided by abseiling from the U-bolts at the top of Daedalus (55m) to a ledge then scrambling R a couple of metres to the base of a bottomless chimney to start.<br/>1. 30m. Climb the wall, step R and awkwardly enter the bottomless chimney (crux). Continue up the tight chimney, exiting through a bulge and jam the sustained hand crack to a small belay ledge on the R (take plenty of hand size pro). The thin crack with a peg on the L goes nowhere and is usually festooned with 'tat' left behind by folk trying to avoid climbing the chimney!<br/>2. 48m. Climb the crack and bulges in behind the huge pillar to the notch. Continue climbing up behind the pillar to the top.</climb>
<climb id="112" number="27." name="Freedom" extra="Þ ↓" grade="30" length="25m" stars="" fa="J. Bresnehan, Feb 2010.">The hardest route on the Pipes and a magnificent line, taking the arête and wall to the R of pitch 3 of Icarus. Access via a 30m abseil from rap station above the slab that caps Battlements Column, to the Middle Battlement (top of pitch 2 of Battlements). A technical boulder problem at half-height offers some amazing moves in an outrageous position and should be enjoyed by all. A finger-sized cam can be handy to protect the post crux section.</climb>
<climb id="57" number="28." name="Bismark" extra="" grade="24" length="100m" stars="**" fa="D. Groom, J. Moore, Jan 1968. FFA: (2 and 3) K. Lindorff, K. Rosebery, Feb 1977. (1) K. Carrigan, P. Bigg, 1982.">Once an old aid route, this is the impressive line up the middle of Battlements Column. Start at the base of the cliff.<br/>1. 20m 24. Climb crack at base of Battlements Column to ledge at 5m. Step past loose blocks and climb shallow corner and thin cracks above (crux) to next ledge. An easier alternative is to climb pitch one of Incision. <br/>2. 40m 21. Climb the front of column to it's top. <br/>3. 40m 14. Drop off back of column and climb straight to top of cliff. Rap station as for Daedelus.</climb>
<climb id="56" number="29." name="Incision" extra="" grade="18" length="104m" stars="" fa="(1) K. Lindorff, K. Rosebery, Feb 1977. (2) P. Bigg, S. Parsons, D. Fife, 1979.">A good landmark. This is the prominent wide chimney on the RH side of the Battlements Column, which closes down after 15m into a crack. <br/>1. 24m. Start at the base of the cliff and climb the chimney, following the crack through the roof until it widens again. Move up and L around the arête to belay on a ledge on Bismark. <br/>2. 30m. Move back R into the line and pass the roof by climbing the L arête. Continue straight up to join Battlements above Mad Dog Chimney. <br/>3. 50m. As for Battlements.</climb>
<climb id="109" number="30." name="Battlements Direct" extra="" grade="17" length="40m" stars="*" fa="Unknown">Good value and worthy of inclusion separately. Start at the base of the cliff and climb the corner crack on the R directly below Split Column to Lower Battlements platform. Abseil off or finish up Battlements.</climb>
<climb id="110" number="31." name="Battlements" extra="" grade="15" length="118m" stars="" fa="M. Douglas, J. Fairhall, Apr 1962.">Traverses across other climbs in the area. Some good climbing, but gradually disappearing into the jungle. <br/>1. 35m. Up central cleft of Double Column to long scrubby ledge. From LH end, climb wide crack to large platform known as the Lower Battlement. Move 4m down from LH end of platform. <br/>2. 40m. Mad Dog Chimney. Follow easy line diagonally through the mulga, trending L. An obvious interior line leads to an airy balcony to L – the Middle Battlement. <br/>3. 43m. Layback corner crack and continue up past an old peg (still there in 2007) to ledge on rear face of final tower (a harder alternative is to traverse R when halfway up layback and then up). Continue straight up the difficult crack, past another old peg (2007), to notch and then finish via grotty chimney. Better but harder is to climb clean-cut crack to the R above the notch, traversing back L at the top.</climb>
<text class="heading2" id="106">Split Column</text>
<text class="text" id="107">Split Column is immediately right of Battlements Column. The top 25m of Split Column looks as if it has been split with an axe and at the very top are two ear-shaped rocks. If you look carefully from below, you can see a sinuous hand-crack snaking its way up the nose of the column into an ever-widening crack below the top. This is the line taken by pitch three of Split Column. Routes on Split Column are predominantly accessed using a top-down approach.</text>
<text class="text" id="50">Top-Down Access<br/>For access to routes on Split Column walk R of the patch of snow gums (GPS MTW110) as for Battlements Columns. Walk along the cliffline past Double Column, and across to the top of Split Column with its distinctive twin 'ears' of rock. Located on the RH ear in a vee groove is the Ultrahard rap station (1 x 35m – GPS MTW140), which accesses routes from the ledge at the start of pitch three of Split Column.</text>
<text class="text" id="108">Bottom-Up Access<br/>For access to routes on Split Column, follow the Northern Buttress track uphill to the base of Northern Buttress (GPS MTW010). Take the LH fork and follow the track up to the Shipwreck (a large rock that some folks think resembles a shipwreck). Access to the base of Split Column is further to the right and up the gully from Battlements Column. Descent from routes requires a short walk around the cliff line to Cossack Column Rap station (1 x 6m; 1 x 50m) or a scramble down Exit/Entry.</text>
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<climb id="55" number="32." name="Sandy Bay Road" extra="↓" grade="18" length="35m" stars="**" fa="L. Wood, M. Tillema, A. Bush, Dec 1976.">Trad heaven, a fabulous pitch. Originally climbed from the ground up via what is now Battlements Direct. Instead rap in via Ultrahard to a belay ledge. Climb the obvious crack on the wall just L of Holiday in Cambodia corner. Take some large gear (#4 Camalot or larger) to protect initial 8m.</climb>
<climb id="54" number="33." name="Holiday in Cambodia" extra="↓" grade="21" length="35m" stars="***" fa="P. Bigg, S. Parsons, 1982.">Sustained, energetic and some say hard for the grade. This corner shares it's first 6m in common with Split Column. Start up the corner and instead of traversing R as for Split Column, continue straight up the flared finger and hand crack in the corner past two small roofs (crux). Follow the good hand crack more easily to the top.</climb>
<climb id="105" number="34." name="Split Column" extra="↓" grade="19" length="40m" stars="***" fa="G. Child, K. Carrigan, Feb 1978.">Engages and focuses the climber fully! This route once started at ground level 2m right of Battlements Direct. Now done simply to experience the final pitch and avoid the first two mediocre and vegetated pitches. Rap in via the Ultrahard rap station (35m) to the ledge for the final 3-star pitch. <br/>1. 40m. The pitch you all want to lead. Up the corner as per Holiday in Cambodia for 6m to a thin traverse line leading R. Traverse for 3m (across Ultrahard) then follow the sinuous hand crack up the nose to a niche. Follow the widening line past the twist to the top with the able assistance of one's love for #4 RPs.</climb>
<climb id="53" number="35." name="Ultrahard" extra="4Þ ↓" grade="28" length="30m" stars="*" fa=" S. Parsons, Nov 2006.">The self-explanatory direct start to Ultrasound. Rap in to the ledge. Climb up Holiday in Cambodia for 2m then reach R and clip the first bolt. From here move R into the line and up past 4 bolts, before finishing up Ultrasound where a trad rack including very small to medium cams and wires is required.</climb>
<climb id="52" number="36." name="Ultrasound" extra="↓" grade="23" length="20m" stars="***" fa="S. Parsons, D. Fife, 1982.">Thin and thought provoking. The line found just R of Holiday in Cambodia. Reached by abseil from the top rap anchors (20m). Belay in the niche halfway up pitch 3 of Split Column. Step L around the corner and follow the thin crack to the top. Very small to medium cams and wires are the go.</climb>
<climb id="49" number="37." name=" Soliton" extra="" grade="20" length="35m" stars="**" fa="H. Jackson, Mar 1998.">Position, position, position. High quality climbing up the exposed line below and R of the last pitch of Split Column. Abseil down the NW side of Split Column to belay in a R-facing corner, not far above the large bushy ledge 50m from the top. Step L onto the face and climb through balancy moves with spaced gear to the thin crack. Follow the crack (crux) and then the easier arête to the ledge of Split Column. Finish up this.</climb>
<climb id="48" number="38." name="Face What You Fear" extra="" grade="23" length="15m" stars="**" fa="P. Bigg, S. Parsons, D. Fife, 1982.">To the R of Split Column on the RH face of the column. Rap into the gulch. Traverse out of the chimney to the thin crack. Tight hands lead past the crux to easier going near the top.</climb>
<climb id="47" number="39." name="Midnight Cabbage" extra="" grade="15" length="110m" stars="" fa=" M. Tillema, D. Klees, 1972. (2b): P. Treby, T. Brooks, Jan 1974.">Interesting and varied climbing, if a little jungle-like now, up the RH side of Split Column. Start directly below Split Column at the crack on the R. <br/>1. 40m. Straight up the crack and reverse the downclimb section on Battlements to belay on the Lower Battlement. <br/>2a. 30m. Move R for 2m and follow an obvious line over a bulge to a large ledge, as for Coleslaw. <br/>2b. 30m 17. Direct variant: Follow the jam crack for about 5m then step R and climb a short wall. Move up to the base of the huge chimney behind Split Column. <br/>3. 40m. Ascend the chimney to the top.</climb>
<text class="heading2" id="30">Double Column</text>
<text class="text" id="31">Double Column is the double column immediately right of Split Column and separated from it by a shallow gully. Double Column is forward standing, approximately 100m high and split by a conspicuous crack/chimney line. This is the line taken by Double Column Central. Routes on Double Column are predominantly accessed using a bottom-up approach.</text>
<text class="text" id="101">Bottom-Up Access<br/>For access to routes on Double Column, follow the Northern Buttress track uphill to the base of Northern Buttress (GPS MTW010). Take the LH fork and follow the track up to the Shipwreck (a large rock that with some imagination resembles a shipwreck). To approach Double Column from here walk across and up the gully to the base of the column. Access to routes on Hiawatha Ledge is further to the right via a chimney and a scramble up steep grass. Descent from routes requires a short walk around the cliff line to Cossack Column Rap station (1 x 6m; 1 x 50m) or a scramble down Exit/Entry</text>
<text class="text" id="32">Top-Down Access<br/>If approaching from the summit Double Column is the first column R of the patch of snow gums (GPS MTW110) as viewed looking towards Hobart. The top of this bulky column is separated from the main cliff by an 8m deep moat, making abseil access difficult. To access the base of the routes via abseil it is best to walk L from the patch of snow gums and use either the Cossack Column rap station (1 x 6m; 1 x 50m) to reach the base of the Columns. From here walk down the gully and across to the base of Double Column. Another option is to down-climb Exit/Entry.</text>
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<climb id="40" number="40." name="Coleslaw" extra="" grade="17" length="105m" stars="" fa="J. Moore, V. Kennedy, Nov 1967. FFA: Phil Steane, N. Ward, Apr 1983.">Not the best diet for good climbing. <br/>1. 27m. As for Battlements (Original Route). Belay on the Lower Battlement. <br/>2. 27m. Straight up to a large ledge. <br/>3. 30m. Up on the R for 3m and traverse L onto a small buttress in middle of the gully. Where the buttress ends, continue up the wall (crux). Step R into a crack and after 3m move R into a corner. <br/>4. 21m. Continue up until behind Double Column then up the easy crack to the top.</climb>
<climb id="39" number="41." name="Double Column Central" extra="" grade="17" length="77m" stars="*" fa="M. Douglas, T. Terry, Apr 1967. FFA: B. Kennedy, L. Closs, Oct 1970.">Famously on-sight soloed in the rain by Henry Barber in the 70s, it takes the conspicuous crack/chimney line up the centre of Double Column. Reached by a scramble from the R, and start L of the recess on the Double Column proper. <br/>1. 23m. Climb the chimney to a stance in a small cave. <br/>2. 23m. Continue with difficulty straight up the groove through a bulge. Follow the chimney to another cave stance. <br/>3. 16m. Climb the roof split by two cracks immediately above the stance. Either follow the off-width crack, or the corner on the R, to the base of a tight chimney. Squeeze through to a stance. <br/>4. 15m. Straight up the final chimney or escape through the back of the column.</climb>
<text class="text" id="92">The next routes start in a recess immediately R of Double Column Central, where a substantial ledge extends across the recess beneath the start of these routes. This is Hiawatha Ledge and it is approached from the gully below via a 15m chimney and a scramble up steep grass.</text>
<climb id="38" number="42." name="Mind's Eye" extra="" grade="24" length="70m" stars="**" fa="J. Bresnehan, Feb 2009.">The arête R of Double Column Central. Starts off Hiawatha Ledge. As well as quickdraws, take a rack of cams up to hand size, with doubles (maybe triples) around finger size. <br/>1. 30m 24. Climb the blocky arête to belay (10 bolts and finger sized cams). <br/>2. 40m 24. Up face and arête past 5 bolts, then up pumpy finger crack for 15m to more bolts. Move R along shelf to squeeze chimney. Finish delightfully up this to the top. Belay takes cams to hand size and/or you can sling a pointy boulder a few metres back from the edge.</climb>
<climb id="37" number="43." name="Split Decision" extra="" grade="21" length="57m" stars="*" fa="N. Deka, G. Cooper, Jan 1989.">The steep crack on the LH wall of Hiawatha Ledge just L of The Cordoban. <br/>1. 12m 21. Climb the steep flared finger crack on the L face for 10m, trending L to a belay on the arête. <br/>2. 45m 17. Follow the widening corner crack to the top, which starts with fingers and ends as a walk.</climb>
<climb id="36" number="44." name="The Cordoban" extra="" grade="17" length="93m" stars="*" fa="J. Moore, P. Stranger, Feb 1967.">An adventurous day out that has sandbag potential. Best done when dry, it takes the line behind the RH column of Double Column. Start at foot of corner at LH end of Hiawatha Ledge. <br/>1. 24m. Up the black lichen-laden corner through a constriction to belay on ledge. <br/>2. 20m. Crux. Follow RH crack until below loose swinging door of rock (attempts to dislodge it have failed to date). Switch to LH crack and climb up to pea-pod stance. Revert to RH line and climb wide crack to ledge 6m above (a #4 Camalot feels reassuring). <br/>3. 10m. Chimney up narrow crack, step onto R wall at 7m and belay on ledge above and to R. <br/>4. 18m. Continue up main chimney and climb up leaning column. From top, exit R through back of large flake onto large belay ledge. <br/>5. 21m. From RH end of ledge, climb corner awkwardly past bush and up through scrub to top.</climb>
<climb id="35" number="45." name="Play Spot the Poss" extra="" grade="17" length="85m" stars="" fa="G. Cooper, Pete Steane, Feb 1984.">The most enjoyable pile of choss you're ever likely to climb. The direct line in the middle of the ledge between the Cordoban and Hiawatha.<br/>1. 45m. Climb the crack to below the roof capping the vee-chimney. Continue up the hand cracks on the L, which become dirty, to a belay at the foot of the leaning column. <br/>2. 40m. Continue up the chimney and corners on the R.</climb>
<climb id="34" number="46." name="Hiawatha" extra="" grade="17" length="80m" stars="*" fa="J. Ewbank, D. Groom, 1969.">An entertaining direct line. This route located at the RH side of the ledge and starts at the base of the crack/chimney L of Moments of Inertia. <br/>1. 36m. Straight up to a small ledge on the R. Continue up the crack to a ledge. <br/>2. 44m. Continue on past a block at 10m, up the side of a huge flake to a stance on top of it. Up the crack directly above past loose blocks to the top.</climb>
<climb id="33" number="47." name="Moments Of Inertia" extra="" grade="18" length="70m" stars="*" fa="G. Cooper, A. Adams, Jan 1991.">Deserving of more attention, the 2nd pitch is a treat. This route is the corner line on the far RH side of Hiawatha ledge. <br/>1. 25m 18. Climb the wide crack in the corner to a large vegetated ledge. <br/>2. 45m 16. From the middle of the ledge climb the hand crack through the break and follow the line directly to the top, deviating L to the arête at one point to avoid a dirty fused corner.</climb>
<text class="heading2" id="3">Cossack Column</text>
<text class="text" id="113">Cossack Column occupies the head of the cirque at the RH end of the Columns. Right of Double Column is a wide curving stretch of wall that ends at a closely joined twin column that is 65m high. Two large wedge shaped blocks cap the summit. Routes on Cossack Column are predominantly accessed using a top-down approach.</text>
<text class="text" id="114">Top-Down Access<br/>Cossack Column is located about 40m left of the patch of snow gums (GPS MTW110) as viewed looking towards Hobart. The Cossack Column rap station (GPS MTW120) is located here (1 x 6m; 1 x 50m) and is used to access routes in the vicinity of Sky Rocket. Carrot Top rap station is located by following the curve of the cliff line further around to the left. The hangerless carrot bolts provide access to Carrot Top and The Early Bird (1 x 20 m). Amphitheatre rap station (GPS MTW130) is further to the left again (1 x 50m) and is marked by a blue dot, and used for access to routes in the vicinity of the Shield. Further left of Amphitheatre rap station and downhill is the top of Exit/Entry a grade 7 scramble to the base of the cliff that requires care to descend.</text>
<text class="text" id="116">Bottom-Up Access<br/>For access to routes on Cossack Column, follow the Northern Buttress track uphill to the base of Northern Buttress (GPS MTW010). Take the LH fork and follow the track up to the Shipwreck (a large rock that that some folk think resembles a shipwreck). To approach Cossack Column from here walk up the grassy gully towards the bottom of Exit/Entry then across to the base of the column.</text>
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<climb id="29" number="48." name="Killer Canary" extra="" grade="22" length="52m" stars="**" fa="S. Parsons, P. Bigg, D. Fife, 1982.">A brilliant and unlikely line up the arête just L of Where Eagles Dare Not (WEDN). Right of Hiawatha, a conspicuous forest of sassafras (a distinctive light-green bush) fills the final 10m of a crackline near the top of the cliff. This is the line of WEDN.<br/>1. 15m 18. Climb pitch one of WEDN, belaying at first obvious ledge. <br/>2. 25m 22. Move L to the arête and ascend the discontinuous cracks just L of the arête to belay on a small exposed ledge. <br/>3. 12m 21. Step down and L onto the face and climb face and cracks to the top.</climb>
<climb id="28" number="49." name="Where Eagles Dare Not" extra="" grade="18" length="100m" stars="" fa="I Lewis, K. Carrigan, Jan 1974.">Most folk rap off below the conspicuous forest of sassafras bush fhat fills the top 10m of this route.<br/>1. 10m. Up a short chimney, through a hole to a large ledge. <br/>2. 25m. Follow a dirty chimney to an off-width crack (crux). Continue to a belay on top of loose blocks. <br/>3. 23m. Climb the crack to an exposed stance on the R. <br/>4. 16m. Move up to the sassafras, set up a sling to belay then or rap off.<br/>5. 26m. Alternatively aid L on pins along a horizontal break to a ledge then scramble to the top.</climb>
<text class="text" id="21">The next routes are approached by rapping in via Cossack Column rap station to ground level. Access to routes between Bad Attitude and a Step Back require scrambling L on a ledge system to access the start of routes.</text>
<climb id="27" number="50." name="Bad Attitude" extra="" grade="18" length="65m" stars="" fa="A. Adams, G. Cooper, 1986.">Knuckle down for some off-width action. Takes the line between Where Eagles Dare Not and Sassanach at the far LH end of the approach ledge L of Sky Rocket. <br/>1. 35m. Follow the R-facing corner/hand crack to a stance just below a small roof on the LH wall. <br/>2. 30m. Crux. Continue up the widening crack to the roof. Turn this on the R and continue to the top. Take a large cam or ample tape to sling chockstones.</climb>
<climb id="26" number="51." name=" Sassanach" extra="" grade="19" length="50m" stars="*" fa="P. Robinson, K. Robinson, Mar 2002.">The line immediately R of Bad Attitude, following a steep crack. A small sassafras bush high up provides a welcome rest.</climb>
<climb id="25" number="52." name="Hakea" extra="" grade="21" length="50m" stars="**" fa="P. Robinson, K. Robinson, Feb 2002.">Right of Sassanach is a sustained, steep, classic crack of hand and finger width with some face climbing at the start. Climb the wall to a thin corner, passing the bulge with finger jams to an alcove at half height. Up higher, pull round a huge and spectacular overhanging flake. Belay on the ledge at the base of the hakea tree barring the exit. Abseil off here.</climb>
<climb id="24" number="53." name="Days of Future Past" extra="" grade="20" length="50m" stars="" fa="Top Roped: P. Robinson, Mar 2002.">This steep corner L of The Word Was Made Flesh has been top roped. Festooned with one or two drapes of tea tree and choked with tussock grass in places, it is not recommended unless one is a true green climber. The overhang is interesting.</climb>
<climb id="23" number="54." name="The Word Was Made Flesh" extra="" grade="20" length="65m" stars="" fa="N. Duhig, M. Edwards, 1988.">Very sustained. The second crack L of Sky Rocket. <br/>1. 45m. Awkward jamming up the V-groove to a semi-hanging belay. <br/>2. 20m. Continue more easily to the top.</climb>
<climb id="22" number="55." name="A Step Back" extra="↓" grade="19" length="55m" stars="*" fa="P. Robinson, B. Terry, May 2002.">The first line L of Tartarus. From the foot of Tartarus, climb up L to a sloping grassy ledge at the base of the line. <br/>1. 40m. Climb the long intimidating crack. The crux is about halfway up, where the crack widens above an ancient white crusty nut and biner (remnants of a 1960s attempt). Belay at the base of some large blocks. <br/>2. 15m. Continue with care past the blocks. At the top move straight up past the bush, or make an awkward traverse R into the hole at the top of Tartarus, which leads through to the Cossack Column rap station.</climb>
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<climb id="20" number="56." name="Tartarus" extra="↓" grade="21" length="60m" stars="***" fa="I. Lewis, K. Carrigan, Jan 1974.">Quintessential climbing for aspiring crack masters. The steep and strenuous crack line up the LH side of Cossack Column. Rap in via Cossack Column Rap station. Memorable for being the first climb on the Pipes graded 20 (and subsequently upgraded) and on the cusp of changing ethics. Kim had brought his NSW ethics on holiday with him, and had persuaded Lew to climb without the customary (in Tasmania at the time) small selection of pitons for protection. There must have been a crisis of confidence midway up the climb, because a cry rang out (from Lew, to Mendelt Tillema, who was somewhere at the top of the Amphitheatre/Sentinel Ridge area) - "Hey, Mendelt, where's ya pegs?". These were duly lowered, and the climb proceeded. <br/>1. 40m. Climb a short corner on the L to a small bush and step R into the base of the crack line. Continue up the line to a vague stance above a bulge split by a hand crack. <br/>2. 20m. Follow the V-shaped groove that slants up to the L and around the corner, then continue up easier ground to the top.</climb>
<climb id="19" number="57." name="Sky Rocket" extra="↓" grade="20" length="55m" stars="***" fa=" S. Parsons et al, 1982. Direct start: M. Colyvan, R. Clarke, 1984. Direct finish: P. Robbins, 1990.">Trad climbing on the Pipes is epitomised by this signature route. The climbing is outstanding and the position preposterous. Start as for Tartarus before moving R to climb the LH arête and front face of the column. <br/>1. 15m. Climb the Tartarus line to belay in a vee-slot.<br/> 2. 40m. Traverse R from belay onto a narrow ledge. Up 1m then traverse R, step around the arête, and up the thin crack line. (1st crux). Climb shallow corners of increasing difficulty to a ledge (some of the flakes to this point are a bit suspect). Layback and stem over a bulge to twin finger cracks. Continue thoughtfully to a narrow ledge (2nd crux) and then up the twin hand cracks (final crux), exiting via the RH crack to the rap station. Direct start: (21) climb directly up to the crack. Direct finish: (25) climb directly over the summit block.</climb>
<climb id="18" number="58." name=" In Flagrante Delicto" extra="17Þ ↓" grade="24" length="50m" stars="***" fa="R. Parkyn, Dec 1993.">An amazing line of sustained quality and difficulty up the RH arête of Cossack Column. Originally done in two pitches, but best done as one. Although no trad gear is needed, wires can be placed on the first pitch and near the top of the second pitch. Either scramble up to the base or abseil in from the top via the Sky Rocket rap station. Follow the line of U-bolts up the arête between Sky Rocket and Potem Tole; 8 bolts to DBB, then 8 bolts to the rap station.</climb>
<climb id="17" number="59." name="Potem Tole" extra="↓" grade="19" length="50m" stars="**" fa=" K. Carrigan, I. Lewis, Jan 1974. FFA: S. Parsons, D. Fife, 1982.">The steep corner at the top is unique for the Pipes. The corner just R of Cossack Column that is accessed via the rap station to reach a recessed ledge. Start up the LH crack/groove line for 8m (as for Voluntary Vomit), then step L onto the face and move up the parallel line to the grassy ledge at the base of a corner. Negotiate an awkward move in the corner, jam through the bulge and layback the corner above to a ledge on the L. Up and L to hand crack finishing just R of Skyrocket at the rap station.</climb>
<climb id="16" number="60." name="Voluntary Vomit" extra="" grade="17" length="75m" stars="" fa="I. Lewis, A. Hogarth, Feb 1974.">Old school bulimia? Follows the crack and groove lines that starts on a grassy ledge in a recess just R of Cossack Column.<br/>1. 25m. Climb the crack/groove at the LHS of the ledge. <br/>2. 25m. Continue up the corner until it is possible to finger traverse R into Battle-Axe Crack. <br/>3. 25m. Finish up Battle-Axe Crack.</climb>
<climb id="15" number="61." name="Battle-Axe Crack" extra="" grade="12" length="62m" stars="" fa="M. Tillema, G. Batten, Mar 1971.">In the recess just R of Cossack Column there is a large black chimney with a large chockstone 20m up. Scramble up 12m to the base of the chimney.<br/>1. 20m. Up the chimney on the R to belay on a chockstone. <br/>2. 30m. Continue up and belay on a large, grassy ledge. <br/>3. 12m. Scramble up to the top.</climb>
<climb id="14" number="62." name="Lost Arrow" extra="" grade="17" length="60m" stars="" fa="J. Ewbank, V. Kennedy, Mar 1968.">Likely harder, this direct line involves some strenuous climbing. Start at the base of the line 2m R of Battle-Axe Crack. Scramble up steep ground to the base of the route. <br/>1. 12m. Straight up the corner to a small stance. <br/>2. 35m. Up the crack to a small ledge. Climb the off-width crack over a small overhang (crux) to a narrow chimney. <br/>3. 13m. Easily to the top.</climb>
<climb id="13" number="63." name="Nucleon" extra="" grade="21 " length="50m" stars="" fa="D. Gray, D. Rosen, Feb 1992.">A fingery version of pitch one of The Shield, starting at the twin finger crack 4m to the L. <br/>1. 20m 21. Up finger cracks and a flake to a groove. Climb the groove to a problematic exit onto the top of the pillar. Belay in the niche.<br/>2. 30m 20. Up the overhanging wide crack as for the Shield pitch two.<br/></climb>
<climb id="12" number="64." name="Shield Variant" extra="" grade="24" length="51m" stars="" fa="S. Parsons, J. Kennedy, Dec 1985.">A thinner version of pitch two of The Shield. <br/>1. 25m 16. Climb the first pitch of The Shield to belay in the niche<br/>2. 30m 24. Traverse L to the small niche and climb the finger crack to where it rejoins The Shield.</climb>
<climb id="11" number="65." name="The Shield" extra="" grade="20" length="55m" stars="**" fa="J. Ewbank, A. Keller, Mar 1968.">A classic route by the master himself. Starts at the narrow vee-chimney between Lost Arrow and The Sword. <br/>1. 25m 16. Climb the wide crack, then negotiate the boulder and vegetation to reach a stance. Up obvious cracks to belay in the niche. <br/>2. 30m 20. Up the overhanging wide crack (a couple of #4/#5 Camalots or equivalent are handy) and follow the great shield to a ledge. Up the corner above to the top.</climb>
<climb id="10" number="66." name="The Sword" extra="" grade="14" length="60m" stars="" fa="J. Ewbank, A. Keller, Mar 1968.">A direct line which has become very vegetated over the years. Start at the head of the Amphitheatre 3m R of The Shield. <br/>1. 23m. Climb straight up the corners to a ledge. <br/>2. 28m. Up a corner, battle past 4m of draping vegetation (Mountain Coprosma), then up a pleasant chimney to a large ledge. <br/>3. 9m. Up the crack above to the top.</climb>
<climb id="9" number="67." name="Carrot Top" extra="↓" grade="A3" length="20m" stars="*" fa="G. Phillips, S. Harper, Apr 1997.">A thin aid line L of The Early Bird, best accessed from above by abseiling from the double carrots (no hangers) at the top down to the same DBB as TEB. Aid directly out of the belay via the middle crack (knife blades and small cams) then a loose flake leads to a carrot. Bat hook to a rubbly ledge and then aid R through a crack. Sounds delightful.</climb>
<climb id="8" number="68." name="The Early Bird " extra="↓" grade="24" length="20m" stars="**" fa="A. Williams, Oct 2004.">Reputably classic, but not many have tried it due to Al's alleged fondness for sandbagging..... Rap in from the Carrot Top rap station to reach a narrow ledge equipped with a DBB (fixed hangers), R of the Sword. Climb the shallow L-facing corner to the R of the belay. Well protected by small to medium cams and wires.</climb>
<climb id="7" number="69." name="Lunatic Eclipse " extra="" grade="21 " length="30m" stars="" fa="G. Aimer, Mar 1991.">The strenuous crack L of Richard Scraper, reached by abseiling to a ledge. The result of a mammoth cleaning effort, but unfortunately the lower crack has now regrown its vegetation (dwarf woody Coprosma, if you are a botanist!).</climb>
</guide>
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