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<guide guidestars="**" pagesize="1500"><header
access="All the climbs on the (south) Sunny Side of the Gorge can be accessed from the Zig-Zag track, which starts at the soute side of Kings Bridge. Park in the Penny Royal car-park, just before the bridge. See the sketch map for an idea of how to get to the buttresses."
acknowledgement="by Michael Fox, originally published in Craglets"
history=""
intro="Climbing in Launceston used to happen mainly in the Gorge area which is 10 minutes walk from the centre of town however it now also includes the whole of the South Esk. As with most of Tassie, a lot of the climbing is on dolerite crags, in cracks and corners, occasionally branching out on to the faces and aretes. This section of the guide has only been possible thanks to the input of the local climbing community. That being said it is everyone’s responsibility to ensure editors are supplied accurate and up to date information. If you spot inaccuracies, let us know and we’ll fix them, if you’re not prepared to do this don’t complain about the product! As such this is a ragtag collection of gossip and innuendo and should be treated as such. A lot of these routes haven’t been done by yours truly so I can’t vouch for their grades, quality or even give them a character reference. A lot of the routes are not even known by names except as “that 19 left of...”. In these cases I made up names for them because I got sick of writing “left of the 19...”. Such climbs are marked with a #. Climbers have worked closely with the Launceston City Council who are concerned about safety for climbers and walkers. To ensure continued access to the cliffs climbers have negotiated a Code of Conduct with the council. See http://www.launceston.tas.gov.au/upload/3819/conduct.pdf for a copy. A basic summary of this appears below and it will improve our chances of continuing to climb in the Gorge if you can follow them…. Don’t act like a dickhead! Be nice to the trees, animals, tourists and plants. If you have to scrub a new route for hours before it’s climbable then don’t bother as it will probably be covered in lichen again after the winter. Routes directly above the “Tourist Track” must be adequately protected to ensure the safety of the non-climbing public. Let people know what you are doing (nobody wants a climber plummeting onto them out of the blue!). Fixed anchors should be current best practice with the use of corrosive metals and “carrots” considered sub-standard. All routes (including gear routes) above Tourist Tracks must have double lower off bolts (this protects vegetation and eliminates the risk of dislodging stones while scrambling down off climbs). For current information contact Ian Ferrier at Mountain Designs in York St, Launceston. There is no intention to deter bold climbing or tell people when and where to bolt, but all climbers should understand that this is an access issue and that there is much rock away from tourist areas. The Gorge is the most popular climbing area in Launceston, it is broken into two areas. The Shady Side and the Sunny Side. Simple hey! Obviously climb on the Shady Side on hot sunny days and on the Sunny Side any other time. Be Safe. Be Good and ... use ‘adequate protection’."
name="Cataract Gorge - Sunny Side" new="false"
rock="Short vertical dolerite buttresses. Mostly trad routes, but some bolts."
sun="All day sun" walk="1-15 min"></header><image new="false"
noPrint="false" number="null." src="launceston overview map.png"
width=""/><image new="false" noPrint="false" number="null."
src="Launceston_Zigzag.PNG" width="700">null</image><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Seif Buttress</text><text
class="text">Access- see map. The first major (8m) pinnacle that you come to on the uphill side of the zig-zag track. Beware the large flake on the right has been known to move. DBB on top.</text><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="8m"
name="Miff-Take">Up the face on the front of the pinnacle to the horizontal break and then left to the crack. Thomas, McMahon, Ling, 1980.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="20" length="8m" name="Arête Direct" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Start in yellow open book corner, up to horizontal break and then up arête. Parsons (solo), 1982.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="8m"
name="Seif">From back right-hand edge of pinnacle traverse left to hand crack and up. McMahon, McHugh, 1972.
Various combinations of these have been done including a traverse around the whole pinnacle at the level of the horizontal break (about 22).</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Trackside Buttress</text><text class="text"
new="false"
number="null.">Access- see map. The largest piece of climbable rock right beside the track. The first ascentionists are long forgotten but it still makes an excellent place to start climbing with a lot of the routes off the vertical. Bolt belays on top.</text><climb
extra="" grade="12" length=" 8m" name="Tree Route" new="false"
number=""
stars="***">The hand-sized crack on the left-hand end. A great start to your jamming career.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="12" length="8m"
name="Companion Corner">Corner to 2m right of the Tree Route.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="10m" name="Apron Slab"
stars=" * ">The left trending line of underclings.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="10m"
name="Centre Corner">What else</climb><climb extra="" grade="12"
length="10m"
name="Fern Crack">The crack 3m right of Centre Corner.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="8m"
name="Nark">The next arete right of Fern Crack.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="8m"
name="Tremulo">Boulder problem start in the shallow corner near the end of the buttress.</climb><text
class="text">Lots of boulder problems and traverses also exist in this area.</text><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Uphill Buttress</text><text
class="text">Access- scramble up from the downstream end of Track Side Buttress. The climbs start around the corner on the downstream side and are 6-8m high.</text><climb
extra="" grade="16"
name="Jamal">The off-width. McMahon, McHugh, 1972.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18"
name="H-Block">Bulging hand crack to off-width. Parsons, Grant, Moore, 1978.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="23"
name="Felodese">Up face with single bolt. Ng, 1990.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="15"
name="Serafino">The off-width to chimney on the front of the buttress. McMahon, McHugh, 1972.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="25"
name="Mini Mayhem">Face climbing to a thin crack 3m right of Serafino. DBB. Parsons, Carrigan, 1982.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="20" name="Zoot"
stars=" ** ">Boulder problem start to gain access to the finger crack. DBB. Thomas, McMahon, Ling, 1980.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17"
name="Speransky">The crack on the right hand side of the buttress.</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Offal Buttress</text><text
class="text">Access- see map. Basically down hill from Trackside. Beware of the fervid abseilers. DBB on top.</text><climb
extra="" grade="22" length="15m"
name="Blue No More">On the left hand end off the cliff 6m from Pelvic Thrust is a flaring corner. Up this to thin seam which widens to a hand crack. McMahon, Smith, 1981.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="21" length="18m" name="Pelvic Thrust"
stars=" * ">Thin crack to FH and small roof and then out left to final crack. Fantini, McMahon, 1981.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="23" length="18m"
name="Free Passage">Start 4m right of Pelvic Thrust and climb the face/crack to a ledge. Step left to the hand/finger crack. Fantini, Smith, 1981.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="20" length="18m"
name="Offal">The blood spilling off-width. McHugh, McMahon, 1972.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="22" length="18m"
name="Offal Diagonal">Start up Offal and then at the ledge go out the right diagonal crack. Parsons, 1982.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="23" length="25m"
name="Blockbuster Traverse">Start from the ledge on Blue No More across Pelvic Thrust and Free Passage then finishing up Offal Diagonal. Initially climbed with a piton knocked in with a blockbuster. Narkowicz, McMahon, 1985.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="13" length="16m"
name="Knacker">The chimney around the corner formed by the back of the Pelvic Thrust block. McMahon (solo), 1972.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="15" length="15m"
name="Morte D'Arthur">The next chimney. McMahon, Madden, Smith, 1981.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="23" length="14m" name="Saved"
stars=" ** ">Thin face climbing with very little gear. Next to the descent track 5m uphill from Morte D'Arthur. Narkowicz, Focken, 1985.</climb><text
class="text">Below Offal Buttress there is a series of small faces with potential for some new (but "diminutive") routes.</text><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Shimmy Sheister Buttress</text><text
class="text">Access- see map. Just upstream and downhill from Trackside. Easy to get to by abseiling from the eye-bolts.</text><climb
extra="" grade="20" length="8m"
name="Long Ago And Best Forgotten">The thin crack on the left. McMahon, solo, 1976.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="10m"
name="Looking for the Heart">Flaring groove and crack. Parsons, Best, 1976.</climb><climb
extra="3B" grade="23" length="10m" name="Waiting for Bobo"
new="false" number="" stars="**"
value="And we still are. 3 eye-bolts. Fisher, Selby, 1996.">And we still are. 3 eye-bolts. Fisher, Selby, 1996.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="9m"
name="Pool Shooting Shimmy Sheister">Finger crack on the right. Thomas, 1980.</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Nighthawks Buttress</text><text
class="text">Access- scramble downhill and upstream from Shimmy Sheister buttress or go uphill and downstream from the top of the Mick Loves Anne face. All roads lead to Rome.</text><climb
extra="4B" grade="27" length="13m" name="Rising Gorge"
new="false" number="" stars=""
value="Another excellent job of undergrading by John who initially gave it 24. Line of 4 eye-bolts. DBB. Fisher, 1996.">Another excellent job of undergrading by John who initially gave it 24. Line of 4 eye-bolts. DBB. Fisher, 1996.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="10m" name="Nighthawks"
stars=" * ">Jamming up hand and fist crack on the front of the buttress. For the aficionados of the jam. Thomas, McMahon, 1980</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Trench-Foot Face</text><text
class="text">Access- Just downhill and slightly upstream from Nighthawks is a separate face</text><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="10m"
name="Trench-Foot">Lay away up thin crack to gain hand crack. Parsons, Schmidt, 1976.</climb><text
class="text" new="false"
value="The face to the right of Trench-Foot has been top-roped at somewhere between 17 and 19 depending what hold has most recently broken off.">The face to the right of Trench-Foot has been top-roped at somewhere between 17 and 19 depending what hold has most recently broken off.</text><climb
extra="" grade="15" length="8m"
name="A Man's Drink">The crack behind the tree on the pillar 10m downhill from Trench-Foot. Smith (solo), 1981.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="8m"
name="A Man's Second Drink">5m around the corner from A Man's Drink is a line of thin flakes leading up to a hand crack. Smith, 1981.</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Mickey Loves Anne Face</text><text
class="text">Access- From half-way down the descent track on the upstream side of Offal buttress walk upstream for 50m to a small clump of she-oaks. Abseil from the DBB behind these to the base of the cliff, approximately 12m, which is recognisable by the painted pierced heart. Alternatively scramble upstream 50m from the base of Offal. Multiple bolt belays on top.</text><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="8m"
name="The Rain in Spain">The left hand-crack 3m from Choking the Chicken. Parsons, Shields, 1975.</climb><climb
extra="3B" grade="22" length="10m" name="Choking the Chicken"
new="false" number="" stars="**"
value="Or 24 for the vertically challenged. The arete with 3 eye-bolts. Fisher, Fox, 1995.">Or 24 for the vertically challenged. The arete with 3 eye-bolts. Fisher, Fox, 1995.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="20" length="10m" name="Pickpocket"
stars=" * ">Corner and thin crack 2m right of Choking The Chicken. Ellenburger, K.Smith, 1975. Fantini, Smith, McMahon, 1981.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="10m"
name="Small Change">Up crack, bulges and blocks. Smith, McMahon, 1981.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="20" length="10m" name="Crab Spread"
stars=" * ">Up face to eye-bolt and rusty old piton then to crack above. Fife, Narkowicz, 1982.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="22" length="12m" name="Fruit of the Spirit"
stars=" * ">The crack 3m left of Dead Zone up to a hollow block then 2 eye-bolts on the face above. Narkowicz, 1982.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="20" length="12m" name="Dead Zone"
stars=" *** ">Thin crack starting from sloping ledge. Fantini, Smith,1981.</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Saturday Night Buttress</text><text
class="text">Access- see map. Abseil in, bolt belays on top.</text><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="10m" name="Change My Tune"
stars=" * ">The main hand crack on the left. McMahon, Thomas, 1980.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="10m" name="Stopping on the Red"
stars=" * ">2m right of Change My Tune. Ellenburger, K.Smith, 1975.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="10m"
name="Zoo's Face">The face 2m right of Stopping On The Red. No gear worth stopping for. Thomas (solo), 1981.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="14" length="10m"
name="Cue Ball Head">The broken crack line 4m upstream of Stopping On The Red. McMahon, Thomas,1980.
The face right of Cue Ball Head is another top rope route at about 17.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="10" length="8m"
name="Burgundy Sky">The next corner. McMahon, Thomas, 1980.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="8m"
name="Fly By Night">The last climb before the off-width corner. Up corner to block at the top. Harder than it looks. Thomas, Keenan, McMahon, 1981.</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Foam Pinnacle</text><text
class="text">Access- Walk 30m up the ramp from Deadzone on the Mickey Loves Anne face. It's most use is for finding the access to Riverside Buttress</text><climb
extra="" grade="14" length="10m"
name="Foam">The crack. McMahon (solo), 1980.</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Riverside Buttress</text><text
class="text">Access- Abseil in from the trees 10m below the Foam Pinnacle or scramble down the upstream side of Foam Pinnacle, best done at low tide.</text><climb
extra="" grade="23" length="10m"
name="Innocent Bystander">Thin crack up to steel spike. Smart, McMahon, 1982.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="10m"
name="Bad Mouth">The off-width on the arete. McMahon, Smart, 1982.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="10m"
name="Fugitive">Corner 5m upstream from Bad Mouth. McMahon, Smart, 1982.</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Pygmy Possum Buttress</text><text
class="text">Access- From Foam Pinnacle walk upstream and uphill for 40m or alternatively drop down from the upstream end of Saturday Night Buttress. The climbs on Pygmy Possum Buttress are almost 30m long and are some of the longest climbs in the Gorge.</text><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="27m" name="Thylacine" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Left hand off-width to hand crack then on to the face of the top pillar. McMahon, Mohler, 1981.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="25m" name="Pygmy Possum"
stars=" ** ">A difficult start up thin crack and corner before easing to hand jams. Continue up crack above. McHugh, McMahon, 1972.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="25m"
name="Schmidt Variant">Starts up Thylacine and then traverses on to Pygmy Possum after the off-width. Schmidt.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="10m" name="French Ethics"
stars=" *** ">Scramble up the gully on the right of the Pygmy Possum Buttress to where it is possible to climb the arete/pillar with 3 eye-bolts and some natural gear (oh no) to a DBB. Fox, Bissett, French, 1997.</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">On The Way Pinnacle</text><text
class="text">Access- Directly above Pygmy Possum Buttress on the uphill side of the track to Saturday Night Buttress.</text><climb
extra="" grade="15" length="8m"
name="On the Way">Pleasant climbing up the crack behind the tree. McMahon (solo), 1980.</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Aqua-Slick Buttress</text><text
class="text">Right of Pygmy Possum Buttress and on the same level. Abseil in from DBB above.</text><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="12m"
name="Game of Chance">Start in cleft on the far left up to overlap and crack above. McMahon, Mohler, 1981.</climb><climb
extra="3B" grade="22" length="12m" name="Sunflower" new="false"
number="" stars="*"
value="Climb the arete 1m left of Aqua-Slick with 3 U-bolts. Good climbing though the crux is avoiding stepping into Aqua-Slick DBB Ng, McOwan, 1990.">Climb the arête 1m left of Aqua-Slick with 3 U-bolts. Good climbing though the crux is avoiding stepping into Aqua-Slick. DBB. Ng, McOwan, 1990.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="10m"
name="Aqua-Slick">The hand crack just 1m right of Suflower. McMahon, Smith, 1980.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="9" length="10m" name="Down to the Canvas"
new="false" number=""
stars="">The right-hand face and crack with a hard start. McMahon, Smith, 1980.</climb><climb
extra="3B" grade="22" length="10m" name="McDonalds is Good!"
new="false" number="" stars=""
value="Line of 3 bolts right of Down to the Canvas. Bissett, 1998.">Line of 3 bolts right of Down to the Canvas. Bissett, 1998.</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Feltham Buttress</text><text
class="text">Access- see map. One of the most popular buttresses in the Gorge because of it's easy access and great variety of climbs.</text><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="10m"
name="Deal an Ace">The first crack on the downstream end of the buttress. Parsons, 1976.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="21" length="12m" name="The Night Dweller"
stars=" *** ">Face climbing up the left-hand line of 2 carrots. Ng, 1989.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="24" length="15m"
name="Crossing Siva">Climb to the 2nd bolt of The Night Dweller and traverse right at that level crossing Third Rising at the 2nd bolt and then across to Feltham. Easier for the tall and easier going right to left. Fox, DeCesare, 2002.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="14m" name="Out of Date Route"
stars=" ** ">The face left of Westham with 2 carrots. Starts 2m left of Westham. A variant start on the block another 2m left goes at 17. Parsons (solo), 1982.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="14" length="14m" name="Westham" new="false"
number="" stars="**"
value="The classic corner/crack system. McMahon, Brooks High School, 1972 (Must have been crowded - Ed).">The classic corner/crack system. McMahon, Brooks High School, 1972 (Must have been crowded - Ed).</climb><climb
extra="" grade="24" length="12m" name="Third Rising"
stars=" * ">The orange face with 2 bolts and then exiting up the finger crack on the right. Ng, 1990.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="22" length="12m" name="Feinian" new="false"
number=""
stars="*">Climb the arête right of Third Rising using the same bolts and finish as for that climb, but somehow avoiding Lingham all the way. Ng, 1989.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="14m" name="Lingham"
stars=" *** ">Classic hand jamming. McHugh, Schmidt, 1972.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="24" length="14m" name="Venom" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Wide arête 2m right of Lingham, this time avoiding going into either Lingham or Feltham! McMahon, 1988.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="14m" name="Feltham"
stars=" * ">Up right trending ramp to block then back left to hand crack. McMahon, Schmidt, 1972.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="14" length="12m"
name="Smart Pig">Just 4m around the corner from F.McMahon, Mason, 1973.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="15" length="12m"
name="Pork Hunt">Starts 2m right of Smart Pig up broken corner and off-width. McMahon, Mason, 1973.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="15" length="10m"
name="Cunningham">3m right of Pork Hunt go up crack through small roof. McMahon, Brooks High School, 1972.</climb><text
class="text">The next few routes are on the upstream face of the buttress</text><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="8m"
name="Rasher">The thin crack past the rusty old piton. Narkowicz, McMahon, 1981.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="13" length="8m"
name="Dog Poisoner">Take the left hand crack. I.Thomas, McMahon, 1981.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="12m" name="Jelly Boy"
stars=" ** ">Climb face to single U-bolt, then up to flake and on to top. First bolt can be easily clipped from right before starting to avoid awkward fall. Kearnes, Fox, Decesare, 1998.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="13" length="10m"
name="Cunningham">5m right of Jelly boy. Climb up to overlap and up crack on the right. McMahon and Brooks High, 1972.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="8m"
name="Hamurabi">The third of 3 cracks around the corner from Cunningham. Needs a clean. McMahon, I.Thomas, 1981.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="13" length="8m"
name="Plummeting Jugs">The last corner. McMahon, Holmes, 1999.</climb><text
class="text">Across the gully from Hamurabi is a small buttress with one climb.</text><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="8m"
name="Solitary">Thin corner with crack widening at the top. McMahon, I.Thomas, 1981.</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Porker Pinnacle</text><text
class="text">Access- The pinnacle at the base of Feltham. Abseil in from Feltham or scramble down on the downstream side.</text><climb
extra="3B" grade="25" length="10m" name="Brazen Serpent"
new="false" number="" stars="***"
value="A must for all! Arete with 3 eye-bolts to a DBB. Ng, 1989.">A must for all! Arête with 3 eye-bolts to a DBB. Ng, 1989.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="10m"
name="Porker">Up behind block and then up left. McMahon, Smith, 1973.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="8" length="10m"
name="Cutlet">Behind block and up right. McMahon, Mason, 1973.</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Erza Buttress</text><text
class="text">Access- Abseil from Porker Pinnacle to the water line.</text><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="10m"
name="Ezra">Starts at the bulge and then up to finger crack. McMahon, Mohler, 1982.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="13" length="10m"
name="Raze">From hanging belay climb face and crack via steel bracket. Mohler, McMahon, 1982.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="10m"
name="Raze Variant">Avoid the steel bracket by going right. McMahon, 1982.</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Right Man Buttress</text><text
class="text">Access- See Map. Bolt belays.</text><climb extra=""
grade="18" length="10m" name="The Wrong Man"
stars=" ** ">The first hand crack of the downstream end of the buttress. An excellent jamming excursion. Smith, Ling, McMahon, 1980.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="24" length="10m"
name="Roxanne">The face 1m right of the Wrong Man, up to an eye-bolt and then the thin crack. Ng, 90's.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="25" length="9m"
name="Up the Wall">Thin face with 2 eye-bolts then exit up crack on left. Can be done starting up the chimney on the right and then moving left but take off two grades. Fisher, 1996.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="22" length="9m" name="Touch and Go"
stars=" ** ">First finger crack on the next face. Fantini, Smith, Cameron, 1981.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="20" length="9m"
name="Cold Chat">The next crack starting as a finger crack then opening up to a hand crack. Fantini, Smith, 1981.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="10m"
name="Left Hand Man">Starts up corner with thin crack to ledge and then easier crack. I.Thomas, McMahon, 1980.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="11m"
name="The Right Man">The right line, the last of the 4 cracks. I.Thomas, McMahon, Warren, 1980.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="24" length="12m" name="Ng Man" new="false"
number="" stars="**"
value="Arete with 2 carrots and small wires. Ng, 1988.">Arête with 2 carrots and small wires. Ng, 1988.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="21" length="10m"
name="In-between Man">Corner/thin crack 2m right of Ng Man. Parsons, 1982.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="10m" name="Hot Gossip"
stars=" * ">Corner/finger crack 2m right of In-between Man. Smith, Fantini, 1982.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="23" length="11m" name="Godfather" new="false"
number="" stars=""
value="Arete with 2 carrot bolts. Most people start from the Hot Gossip ledge. Add a grade for the direct. Ng, 1990.">Arête with 2 carrot bolts. Most people start from the Hot Gossip ledge. Add a grade for the direct. Ng, 1990.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="11m"
name="Last Year's Man">Up awkward corner to the large hand crack. Smith, Fantini, 1981.</climb><climb
extra="5B" grade="21" length="10m" name="Bohnanza" new="false"
number="" stars="**"
value="This climb is on a new cliff just past Right Man buttress on the way to Fat Man buttress. Left leaning line/crack with 5 bolts to rap point. Stick clip the first bolt. N Selby 9/8/2003.">This climb is on a new cliff just past Right Man buttress on the way to Fat Man buttress. Left leaning line/crack with 5 bolts to rap point. Stick clip the first bolt. N Selby 9/8/2003.
</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Rhubarb Buttress</text><text
class="text">Access- Go down from the upstream end of Right Man Buttress and abseil in, or scramble across from Porker Pinnacle.</text><climb
extra="" grade="20" length="8m"
name="Getting Dark, Too Dark to See">The finger crack on the left hand end of the buttress which opens to a small corner and hand jamming. McMahon, Narkowicz, 1982.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="9m"
name="By the Light of Karabiners">Corner and crack 3m right of Getting Dark... Narkowicz, McMahon, Nougher, 1982.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="15" length="10m" name="Straight Arm" new="false"
number=""
stars="">The hand crack near the arête. McMahon, Narkowicz, 1982.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="15" length="10m"
name="Dog Leg">Same start as Straight Arm then move right at 1/3 height to the next crack. McMahon, Smith, 1981.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="11m"
name="Diagonal">Go up the overhanging flake to right diagonal crack and along it to the twin cracks. Smith, McMahon, 1981.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="14" length="10m" name="Rhubarb"
stars=" ** ">The main corner and crack. Parsons, Woodruff, 1977.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="23" length="9m" name="Nowt' Breakfast"
stars=" * ">Up thin crack 3m right of Rhubarb. Narkowicz, Maddock, 1982.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="9m"
name="The Groove">Left slanting off-width. McMahon, Smith, 1981.</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false" number="null."
value="Lady Midgnight - Upper Tier">Lady Midgnight - Upper Tier</text><text
class="text">Access- Upstream and downhill from Right Man. The first 3 "climbs" are barely 5m long however the rest can aspire to be grown up climbs.</text><climb
extra="" grade="15" length="5m"
name="Devil's Food">A very short finger to hand crack - almost "diminutive". McMahon, Smith, 1980.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="6m"
name="Skylight">Off-width with a dog-leg at 1/3 height. McMahon, 1980.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="6m"
name="Veiled Flesh">Finger crack 4m upstream of Skylight. Smith, McMahon, 1980.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="14" length="7m"
name="The Stain">Short corner but long compared to the previous 3. McMahon, others, 1980.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="24" length="7m"
name="Scottish Fire">Step right from ledge onto arete and fixed hanger then head up. Originally done direct but a crucial hold has broken off and still waits for an ascent this way. Ng, McOwen 1990.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="10m" name="Lady Midnight"
stars=" ** ">10m right of Fingal Fling. Up short corner and flake to move left to hand crack. Parsons, Woodruff, 1977.</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Lady Midnight - Lower Tier</text><text
class="text">Access - abseil from the tree below Lady Midnight.</text><climb
extra="" grade="22" length="10m"
name="Consultation">Thin face and crack climbing on face 3m left of Joan Of Arc. Parsons, 1982.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="21" length="10m" name="Joan of Arc"
stars=" ** ">The crack you just abseiled past. Climb thin crack to gain left hand edge of cave then move back left to hand crack. Thomas, Smith, McMahon, 1980.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="23" length="10m"
name="Arc of Joan">Climb the face right of Joan of Arc past a FH up to the cave and then up finger crack. McOwan, Wells, 1989.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="10m"
name="Once Again">Traverse to the second corner upstream of Arc of Joan, preferably when the tide is out, then climb the hand crack. Smith, McMahon, 1980.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="10m"
name="Italian Club">Abseil from 10m upstream of Lady Midnight to the water for a hanging belay. Climb the crack. Mohler, McMahon, 1982.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="10m"
name="Italian Way">About 10m upstream of Italian Club. Climb up and left to the overhang and then up crack. McMahon, Mohler, 1982.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="10m"
name="Whore of Babylon">Best approached from the upstream side or even The Gully. Start at the water level go up the slab to the small roof and jam crack. McMahon, Thomas, 1980.</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Fatman Buttress - Upper Tier</text><text
class="text">Access- see map</text><climb extra="" grade="16"
length="10m"
name="To the Elbow">Climb the off-width behind the pillar of Thin Fiend on the downstream side. McMahon, Smith 1972.</climb><climb
extra="4B" grade="20" length="10m" name="Thin Fiend" new="false"
number="" stars="***"
value="Line of 4 carrots up the isolated downstream pinnacle. Ng, 1991.">Line of 4 carrots up the isolated downstream pinnacle. Ng, 1991.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="10" length="10m"
name="Fatman">The chimney behind the isolated Fatman Pinnacle 5m upstream from the Thin Friend pillar. McMahon, McHugh, 1972.</climb><climb
extra="3B" grade="19" length="10m" name="Crucifix" new="false"
number="" stars="***"
value="Up the face of the Fatman Pinnacle past 3 carrots and friend placements in the horizontal breaks. DBB. Ng, 1991.">Up the face of the Fatman Pinnacle past 3 carrots and friend placements in the horizontal breaks. DBB. Ng, 1991.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="13" length="10m"
name="Thin Man">On the opposite side of Skinny Girl climb the easy face. McMahon, McHugh, 1972.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="10m" name="Prow"
stars=" * ">Hard start then easily up on the left of the line of carrots. Smart and McMahon.</climb><text
class="text">The bolts are the result of an Ng project which was to go on the right but is too contrived to bother with.</text><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="10m"
name="Skinny Girl">Up through bulge and hand crack to the split between the pillar and the buttress proper. Smith, McMahon.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="8m"
name="Acoustics and Meat">The off-width through the small roof 10m uphill and right of Skinny Girl. Narkowicz, McMahon.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="13" length="8m"
name="Getting On With the Neighbours">The corner 3m up hill from Acoustics & Meat. Mohler, Madden, 1981.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="15" length="8m"
name="Pot Belly">Off-width climbing saved by chock-stones. Smith, McMahon, 1981.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="10m"
name="Not Out">The thin corner 3m right of Pot Belly. McMahon, Madden, 1981.</climb><climb
extra="3B" grade="25" length="10m"
name="When the Fat Lady Sings" new="false" number="" stars="**"
value="The arete/pillar with 3 eye-bolts. DBB. Fox, Munro, Kearnes, 1996.">The arête/pillar with 3 eye-bolts. DBB. Fox, Munro, Kearnes, 1996.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="7" length="10m"
name="The Oil">The chimney at the back of When the Fat Lady Sings. Madden, Mohler, 1981.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="14" length="9m"
name="Purveyor of Flesh">Second last corner of the buttress 10m uphill from When the Fat Lady Sings. McMahon, Smith, 1981.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="15" length="9m"
name="Price of Meat">The last corner. McMahon, Smith, 1981.</climb><climb
extra="2B" grade="23" length="7m" name="Start Running"
new="false" number="" stars=""
value="The 2 carrots 3m left of You're Fat! Starting at the same level step left on to arete. Originally conceived with a direct independent start but still waiting. Ng, 1991.">The 2 carrots 3m left of You're Fat! Starting at the same level step left on to arete. Originally conceived with a direct independent start but still waiting. Ng, 1991.</climb><climb
extra="2B" grade="18" length="7m" name="You're Fat!" new="false"
number="" stars=""
value="Climb the face with 2 bolts on the end of the buttress. DeCesare, Fox, 1996.">Climb the face with 2 bolts on the end of the buttress. DeCesare, Fox, 1996.</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Fatman Buttress - Lower Tier</text><text
class="text">Access by abseiling from the tree below Skinny Girl.</text><climb
extra="" grade="20"
name="Gerry's River Traverse">Starts somewhere down river of Fatman Buttress and goes for about 100m. "The landing is soft and rarely more than 1m away" to quote someone. Narkowicz (solo), 1982.</climb><climb
extra="Þ" grade="21" length="12m" name="Fear and Frothing"
new="false" number="" stars="*"
value="The thin cracks past an eye-bolt to the steel spike then traverse left to the arete and another eye-bolt. Narkowicz, McMahon, 1982.">The thin cracks past an eye-bolt to the steel spike then traverse left to the arête and another eye-bolt. Narkowicz, McMahon, 1982.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="12m"
name="Cantilever Corner">Corner and face 3m right of Fear and Frothing. McMahon, Smart, 1982.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="10m"
name="Montefeltro">Flaring crack 4m upstream of Cantilever Corner. McMahon, Narkowicz, 1982.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="10m"
name="Urbino">Uphill and upstream of the last climb is a separate pillar split by a crack. McMahon, Fantini, 1980.</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Wonders of the Flesh Buttress</text><text
class="text">This buttress is upstream and on the same level as the top of the Fatman Buttress, directly above The Gully.</text><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="9m"
name="Third Knuckle">Hand crack on the left. McMahon, Smith, 1981.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="9m"
name="Sapient Sutler">Left hand line on the right hand side of the buttress. Parsons et al, 1976.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="9m"
name="Polyphiloprogenitive">Corner right of Sapient Sutler to join it at the off-width. Smith, McMahon, 1981.</climb><climb
extra="4B" grade="19" guide.action="submit" guide.id="204"
guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="12m"
name="Fish Fingered Choir Girl" new="false" number="" stars=""
value="A couple of metres left of Noodle Armed Choir Boy. Climb the face, 4 fixed hangers, take a wire for the top moves if you want extra pro. DBB at the top. Dennis Kearnes, Michael Fox, 3/11/07.">A couple of metres left of Noodle Armed Choir Boy. Climb the face, 4 fixed hangers, take a wire for the top moves if you want extra pro. DBB at the top. Dennis Kearnes, Michael Fox, 3/11/07.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="12m"
name="Noodle Armed Choir Boy">On face that faces upstream overlooking The Gully. Walk downhill and then upstream from You're Fat and abseil to large ledge from DBB on LPFY! Climb face corner past two U-bolts, then natural gear. Bissett, 1998.</climb><climb
extra="Þ" grade="25" length="12m"
name="Lesbo Pussy Feast, Yehah!!" new="false" number=""
stars="**"
value="The line 4m right of NACB. Climb past two U-bolts (double ropes may be better, but clips are good) into corner, place a cam and go up. Bissett, 1998">The line 4m right of NACB. Climb past two U-bolts (double ropes may be better, but clips are good) into corner, place a cam and go up. Bissett, 1998</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">The Gully</text><text
class="text">Access- requires a 30m abseil from the double bolt belay, next to small tree below the Wonders of the Flesh Buttress.</text><climb
extra="" grade="21" length="25m"
name="Lutzen">Start on the downstream side of the gully.
1) Climb up the thin line to the black face, then continue to a grassy ledge. 2) Climb up the obvious left crack. Fantini, McMahon, 1981.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="27m" name="Eyalu"
stars=" *** ">The main crack. Can be split at the grassy ledge. McMahon, Duhig, 1980.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="11" length="27m" name="The Gully Route"
new="false" number="" stars=""
value="What other description do you need? Talbot, K.Smith, 1975.">What other description do you need? Talbot, K.Smith, 1975.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="20m" name="Bautlen"
stars=" * ">On the upstream side of the gully. Up blank corner past piton, through small roof and up crack. McMahon, Ling, 1982.</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Mars Wall</text><text class="text" new="false"
number="null.">Access- upstream from the gully. Abseil in from 2 bolts above Almost Mars.</text><climb
extra="3B" grade="21" length="10m" name="Chardonnay Man"
new="false" number="" stars="***"
value="The arete left of Mars Wall proper. 3 bolts to a DBB. Bissett, Fox, 1997">The arête left of Mars Wall proper. 3 bolts to a DBB. Bissett, Fox, 1997</climb><climb
extra="" grade="22" length="12m"
name="Almost Mars">Thin crack and face climbing 1m left of Mars deviating right at the top. Apparently a direct finish has been done at 24. Smart, McMahon, 1982.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="12m"
name="Mars">The crack. Thomas, Smith, McMahon 1981.</climb><climb
extra="6B" grade="21" length="16m" name="Serenity Now!!"
new="false" number="" stars="***"
value="In the gully right of Mars Wall is a line of 6 U-bolts. This is it. DBB. Bissett, 1998.">In the gully right of Mars Wall is a line of 6 U-bolts. This is it. DBB. Bissett, 1998.</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Gabriel Gully</text><text
class="text">Access- above and to the right of Mars Wall is a gully, on the left is a very small buttress with the following routes. It can also be accessed from Gabriel.</text><climb
extra="" grade="23" length="8m"
name="Fuseli">The blank corner to the crack and then exit left. Originally used a piton runner. McMahon, Ling, 1982.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="9m"
name="Incubus">Up crack to groove. Ling, McMahon, 1982.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="9m"
name="Sucubus">Hand crack. McMahon, Ling, 1982.</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Gabriel Buttress</text><text class="text"
new="false"
number="null.">Access- either by hopping across the rocks when (the tide is out) opposite the table and chairs on the Shady Side, or follow the map. The first 3 routes are on the left uphill section of the cliff. Bolt belays on top of main cliff.</text><climb
extra="" grade="22" length="20m"
name="Bolingbroke">The thin corner to horizontal break/roof. You can escape here by stepping across left to ledge or go left and continue up chimney for pitch 2. McMahon, Ling, 1982.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="22" length="20m" name="Body Extraction"
stars=" ** ">A better version of the above climb. Instead of escaping at break/roof, keep going up past a U-bolt, then some gear and ledges to more bolts. Fox, Bissett, 1997.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="10m"
name="Wad">The corner/crack right of Bolingbroke. Narkowicz, McMahon, 1982.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="13" length="10m"
name="Tree Root">From top of Wad go up slabs to corner and right to groove. McHugh, McMahon, 1972.</climb><text
class="text">The next routes are on the bottom tier of the Gabriel Buttress facing directly onto the river.</text><climb
extra="" grade="23" length="10m" name="Bonking in Kombis"
new="false" number=""
stars="*">Arête and shallow corner on the downstream end. 2 eye-bolts and small cams. DBB. Fox, Munro, Povey, 1995.</climb><text
class="text">These next climbs finish at a DBB at the ledge.</text><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="12m" name="Gabriel"
stars=" * ">Twin crack/corner on the bottom left of the Gabriel Buttress. McMahon, Burnett, Mallinson, 1973.</climb><climb
extra="2B" grade="25" length="12m" name="Third Uncle"
new="false" number="" stars="***"
value="Arete with 2 fixed hangers. Ng, 1989.">Arête with 2 fixed hangers. Ng, 1989.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="12m"
name="Don't Look at the Mantelpiece When You Poke the Fire"
stars=" ** ">Face and crack system right of Third Uncle. Deka, Ling, McMahon, Smith, 1980.</climb><text
class="text">The next two climbs go from the ledge above Don't Look at the ....</text><climb
extra="" grade="15" length="12m"
name="Cashel">Climb up 3m and traverse upstream 10m from the DBB above Third Uncle. Climb the off-width crack with a FH on the right and a loose chockstone which faces downstream. McMahon, Talbot, 1975.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="21" length="14m" name="Lost in Space"
stars=" ** ">10m upstream from the DBB and 3m right of Cashel is a small roof. Climb up this to a thin crack/corner system leading to an overlap and finger crack beyond. Parsons, Deka, 1981.</climb><text
class="text">The following routes are back on the river level.</text><climb
extra="" grade="12" length="12m" name="Spike Route"
stars=" * ">Climb up past the obvious spike. McMahon, Burnett, Mallinson, 1973.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="13" length="12m"
name="Lay Down">The crack 3m right of the Spike Route. McMahon, Burnett, 1973.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="15" length="26m"
name="Ornithologist">Crack behind tree to ledge then up the next tier on the right to the chimney/off-width crack. Hamilton, Smith, 1981.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="8m"
name="Mistake Flake">Flake 3m above the ground. Smith, Cameron, Deka, Hamilton, 1981.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="20m" name="Loose Money, Juice Money"
stars=" * ">Up main crack in the centre of the buttress to the top. Smith, McMahon, Cover, 1980. It is possible to traverse left at the start of the off-width into another crack at about 18</climb><text
class="text">The next climbs start on the second tier on the right hand side of the buttress</text><climb
extra="" grade="20" length="12m" name="Son of Man"
stars=" ** ">Up left trending flake to arete, sparse protection but excellent climbing. Narkowicz, Kearnes, Ng, 1985</climb><climb
extra="" grade="21" length="10m"
name="Hand in Glove">Climb the large pillar 4m right of Son of Man, one carrot only and a cosmetic wire. Ng, 1990.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="13m" name="Chicken Shit Variant"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Climb Cowardice to the crack below the roof. Step left onto the face and crank the spaced face holds up and left past one fixed hanger to the #1 cam crack. De Cesare, Jones Oct/2003.
</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="13m"
name="Cowardice">Yellow corner on the right of the buttress. Classic climbing. Smith, Cover, 1980.</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Gabriel Amphitheatre</text><text
class="text">Access- up right of the main face of Gabriel Buttress</text><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="10m" name="Cacodaemon"
stars=" * ">Elegant climbing up clean corner and thin finger crack. McMahon, 1973.</climb><climb
extra="5B" grade="26" length="15m" name="Spiritual Warfare"
new="false" number="" stars="*"
value="The arête right of Cacodaemon. Climb Mendelt's Route to the first bolt and then move left to the arête past 4 more bolts to DBB. Difficult to avoid stepping onto MR at times but worthwhile if you can. Narkowicz 2001.">The arête right of Cacodaemon. Climb Mendelt's Route to the first bolt and then move left to the arête past 4 more bolts to DBB. Difficult to avoid stepping onto MR at times but worthwhile if you can. Narkowicz 2001.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="10m" name="Mendelt&apos;s Route"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Off-width corner right of Spiritual Fire. Mendelt Tillema, 1974.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="23" length="10m"
name="Prince Hamlet">Thin crack 1m right of Mendelt's Route. Originally done with a piton. McMahon, Smith, 1982.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="9m"
name="Cutting Corner">The next corner right. McMahon, 1980.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="14" length="9m"
name="Duke of York">Up the twin cracks. McMahon, McHugh, 1972.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="21" length="9m"
name="Expiation">Up crack to flake clearing vegetation and dirt as you go. McMahon, Martin, Mohler, 1982.</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">School Girl Pinnacles</text><text
class="text">About half way down to Gabriel Buttress from the top (or halfway to the zig-zag track from the bottom) is a Pinnacle with a few bolted lines on it. This is it. DBB on top.</text><climb
extra="" grade="14" length="10m"
name="Hot For Teacher">On the down stream side of the pinnacle is an easy line to the top. Its really only worthwhile as a means to get to the top if you want to top-rope the other lines. Bissett, French, 1997</climb><climb
extra="Þ" grade="22" length="10m"
name="The Delightful Giggle of Schoolgirls" new="false"
number="" stars="*"
value="On the downhill face of the pinnacle. Follow the bolts. DBB. Bissett, 1997.">On the downhill face of the pinnacle. Follow the bolts. DBB. Bissett, 1997.</climb><climb
extra="4B" grade="26" length="10m"
name="Schoolgirl's Secret Pleasure Spot" new="false" number=""
stars="***"
value="The upstream line of 4 bolts. Start from the right then go straight up. DBB. Fox, 1997.">The upstream line of 4 bolts. Start from the right then go straight up. DBB. Fox, 1997.</climb><text
class="text">Uphill and slightly right of the above routes is a slabby looking piece of rock. This is Six-pack Slab and the following two climbs are there.</text><climb
extra="3B" grade="22" length="10m" name="Max Factor" new="false"
number="" stars="*"
value="The left line of 3 bolts, past a hard start. DBB. Fox, Nicholls, 1997.">The left line of 3 bolts, past a hard start. DBB. Fox, Nicholls, 1997.</climb><climb
extra="3B" grade="22" length="10m" name="Six-Pack" new="false"
number="" stars=""
value=""'Cos it ain't no fuckin' slab", said the delusional first ascensionist. The right line of 3 bolts. DBB. Nichols, Fox, 1997.">"'Cos it ain't no fuckin' slab", said the delusional first ascensionist. The right line of 3 bolts. DBB. Nichols, Fox, 1997.</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Dent de Lion Pinnacles</text><text
class="text">About 50m upstream from Gabriel Buttress or where you cross the river when the tide is out are two separate pillars of rock. The downstream one being the taller and pointier of the two.</text><climb
extra="" grade="24" length="8m"
name="Hot Tips From Bisso">The downstream pinnacle up past 2 bolts to the crack above and a DBB. Fox and Bissett, 2001.</climb><climb
extra="3B" grade="24" length="9m" name="The Dum Arm" new="false"
number="" stars="*"
value="Down and right 10m from HTFB is a line of 3 bolts that go to a DBB. Fox and Bissett 2001.">Down and right 10m from HTFB is a line of 3 bolts that go to a DBB. Fox and Bissett 2001.</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Tithog Pinnacle</text><text
class="text">Access- About 100m upstream from Gabriel Buttress, almost where you cross the river when the tide is in, is a small pinnacle almost hidden by the trees.</text><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="8m"
name="Tithog">The hand crack on the left hand side of the pinnacle. McMahon, Mohler, 1982.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="23" length="8m"
name="Vision of Hope">Through the overhang right of Tithog past 2 bolts and a 1.5 cam to a DBB. Narkowicz, 2001.</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Ling's Pinnacle</text><text
class="text">Access- 100m upstream from Tithog Pinnacle or opposite the Prince of Darkness.</text><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="10m"
name="Ling's Slant">Start up the crack facing the river then go right around the arête and into the slant. Ling, Lamb, McMahon, 1982.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="22" length="8m"
name="The Plumb Line">The thin crack to the right of Ling's Slant with one bolt. Narkowicz, 2001</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Paradise Buttress</text><text
class="text">Another 50m upstream from Ling's Slant is the last passable piece of rock before the river bends around to the Tea Room Cliffs.</text><climb
extra="Þ" grade="22" length="8m" name="Heavenly Prize"
new="false" number="" stars="*"
value="The left hand line of bolts to a DBB. Narkowicz, 2001">The left hand line of bolts to a DBB. Narkowicz, 2001</climb><climb
extra="Þ" grade="23" length="8m" name="Paradise Road"
new="false" number="" stars=""
value="The right hand line of bolts. Add a grade if you feel vertically challenged and you're onsighting it. DBB. Narkowicz, 2001.">The right hand line of bolts. Add a grade if you feel vertically challenged and you're onsighting it. DBB. Narkowicz, 2001.</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Tea Room Cliffs</text><text class="text"
new="false"
number="null.">Access- Directly opposite the Gorge Restaurant Tea Rooms look-out are two small cliffs, about 20m 1 is the most downstream of the 2 buttress.</text><climb
extra="3B" grade="24" length="12m"
name="Boys On the Monkey Bars" new="false" number="" stars="***"
value="Climb arete on separate pillar with 3 eye-bolts. DBB. Fox, Munro, DeCesare, 1995.">Climb arête on separate pillar with 3 eye-bolts. DBB. Fox, Munro, DeCesare, 1995.</climb><climb
extra="2B" grade="23" length="9m" name="Masturbation"
new="false" number="" stars=""
value="It's not only wankers that do it. 2 eye-bolts around the corner from Boys On the Monkey Bars. Hard to avoid the block behind and awkward clips. Fox, Munro, 1996.">It's not only wankers that do it. 2 eye-bolts around the corner from Boys On the Monkey Bars. Hard to avoid the block behind and awkward clips. Fox, Munro, 1996.</climb><text
class="text" new="false"
number="null.">and on Tea Room No 2 is ...</text><climb extra=""
grade="19" length="9m"
name="Yellow Corner">With a name like that who needs a description? The crack to a shallow yellow corner. Thomas, Fantini, 1980.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="10m"
name="Passing the Time">Off-width corner 3m right of Yellow Corner. Surprisingly good fun. McMahon, Ogbourne, 1982.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="15" length="9m" name="Peacock Walk" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Up horizontal breaks and blocks 5m right of Passing the Time. A variant start 2m further right is also quite good. McMahon, 1978.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="9m"
name="Extreme Unction">Around bulge to crack. McMahon, Martin, Mohler, 1982.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="9m" name="Robertson's Off-Width">Guess what? Robertson, 1978.</climb></guide>
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