<guide version="2"> <header access="To get there drive up Davey Street to the Southern Outlet. Turn R down Macquarie Street and follow this to bus stop 16. Take the RH turn into McRobbies Gully Road (towards the tip), then R again into Degraves Street. Go across the bridge then turn L into Tara Street. Park outside the gates as they may be closed after hours. The cliff is obvious, on the LH side of the trailer/junk park. Ascent to the top of the crag is easiest on the extreme L of the crag. Most climbs are marked with their initials, although some are getting a bit worn. TR anchors have been installed above most of the popular climbs. (p.s. TR = top-rope)" acknowledgement="by Matt Perchard & Evan Peacock, originally published in Craglets." guide.action="submit" guide.id="0" guide.page="0" guide.type="header" history="The crag was discovered in 1981 by the 'Dirty Hands Gang' - some Elizabeth College reprobates also responsible for Coningham and numerous other far less memorable choss piles. The first route was Bedside Manners are Extra, followed by Plastic Erection - after many tries and much "rock sculpturing". Later came Anaphalaxis, led on all natural pro' - a rather horrifying thought! The original line traversed left and up across an obvious set of features to finish at the top of what now is Gun Ho. The other classic of the crag, Suck Ethics, was originally led on only 2 bolts, the second of which fell out as the lead climber past! Thankfully this route and most of the others are far better protected now." intro="Fruehauf is the epitome of the urban crag... barking dogs, big trucks, a nearby tip, loud music and the occasional domestic argument all contribute to the ambiance of squalor. The battery hen farm that used to contribute to the general atmosphere has now gone but the mosquitoes and sandy finishes are still there to welcome you. Turned off? Don't be! Fruehauf has much to offer, and although it is predominantly a TR training crag, most of the routes have been led. So come down one warm summer evening, socialise with the hordes (its popular!), crack onto members of the opposite sex, and crank on some excellent sandstone lines. The placement of TR anchors and retro-bolts has made the place a lot more user friendly, but be prepared to brush the dust off a route after rain... and bring the mozzie repellent over summer." name="Fruehauf" rock="Chossy 10-18m high vertical sandstone" sun="Afternoon sun" walk="by Matt Perchard & Evan Peacock, originally published in Craglets." id="1"/> <image noPrint="false" src="hobartMap.png" width="" id="2"/> <climb extra="TR" grade="23" length="18m" name="Mononeuron" number="" stars="" id="3" fa="Evan Peacock, Nov 1989.">TR: Start on the extreme L of the cliff below the overhanging wall. Climb the easy slab to the overhanging wall, then follow the jugs above to the top.</climb> <climb extra="TR" grade="24" length="18m" name="Lager Frenzy" number="" stars="" id="4" fa="Evan Peacock, Nov 1990.">TR: An exciting route up the steep wall immediately L of Bedside Manners are Extra. Follow a series of holds to a small ledge on the RH arête of the overhanging wall. Continue up to 'top out' in a fringe of sag grass growing over the top. The rock on the bottom half looks very chossy, but is surprisingly solid.</climb> <climb extra="6Þ" grade="17" guide.action="submit" guide.id="3" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="18m" name="Bedside Manners are Extra" number="" stars="" id="5" fa="Peter Steane, Nov 1982.">The easiest climb around. Start at the base of a 3m head-wall toward the L of the cliff. Climb the short crux wall, then continue steeply up the wall to the open-book corner. Ascend this easily to finish. Alternatively, can be started immediately L of Plastic Extras and climbed straight up the corner, maybe a tad easier. U-bolts plus TR chain at top.</climb> <climb extra="TR" grade="22" length="15m" name="Plastic Extras" number="" stars="" id="6">TR: Start 1m L of Plastic Erection and ascend the face with a leftwards trend (but not as far as the easy corner). Under-cling past the small roof, then continue directly up the crux arête above on sloping holds. Finish up the thin face above. Very contrived, but still good.</climb> <climb extra="5Þ" grade="21" length="15m" name="Plastic Erection" number="" stars="" id="7" fa="Craig Maddock, 1983. ">A great climb. Climb up for a few metres then move rightwards to the obvious lay-away flake. Move left (crux) to better holds, then follow the weakness above to finish at the blocks. U-bolts plus TR chain at top.</climb> <climb extra="Þ" grade="25" length="25m" name="The Chodd" number="" stars="" id="8" fa="Marcel Jackson, Jul 1993.">The great traverse. Start up Plastic Erection and head across R on bolts to finish at a chain midway up GT. A very sustained outing.</climb> <climb extra="Þ" grade="27" length="15m" name="Cadwallada" number="" stars="" id="9" fa="Grant Rowbottom, 1996. ">A challenging climb, especially in an old pair of boots or barefoot! Start 2m R of Plastic Erection. Climb the easy wall, then move R a few metres to a ledge where the difficulties and bolts commence. Climb directly to the start of a rising rightwards facing lay-away edge. Ascend this, then the face above.</climb> <climb id="26" stars="**" name="Dildo Gaggin's" length="15m" grade="27" extra="Þ" fa="T.Caldwell Dec 2012">A sustained link-up that guarantees a good workout. Start up Gun Ho, stepping L at jugs, finishing up Cadwallada. Dynamic, technical with a heartbreaking finish.</climb> <climb extra="Þ" grade="26" length="15m" name="Gun Ho" number="" stars="" id="10" fa="Evan Peacock, May 1992.">A big dyno and thin face climbing characterise this line. Start just L of Sucks Ethics. U bolts to a lower-off.</climb> <climb extra="Þ" grade="26" guide.action="submit" guide.id="23" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="15m" name="Heaps Good " number="" stars="" id="11" fa="Jake Bresnehan 2009 ">Climbs the blank face to the L of the upper section of SE. Bolts and vision by Garry, only for the route to be stolen by the one and only Jake the snake. Could be a bit harder.</climb> <climb extra="Þ" grade="25" guide.action="submit" guide.id="10" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="15m" name="Suck Ethics" number="" stars="**" id="12" fa="Phil Bigg.">This sustained climb, in addition to its neighbour to the right, are 'the classics' of the cliff. They speak for the benefits of (dare I say it) chipping, for without this (filthy) practice the climbs would not exist! The climb quickly gets into the swing of it with a dynamic sequence of moves to get off (and often back onto) the ground. After reaching the ledge, continue up past four U-bolts. After the last bolt, move slightly L then up to finish. Both this climb and Anaphalaxis may easily be top-roped from the same chain, though a lead is strongly recommended.</climb> <climb extra="TR" grade="27" length="15m" name="Jack Jumper" number="" stars="" id="13" fa="Evan Peacock, Aug 1993.">TR: A training contrivance - nothing else. Start just R of Suck Ethics. Dyno-dyno-dyno to reach the RH side of the horizontal slot on Suck Ethics. Trend R and up to reach the pocket on Anaphalaxis and dyno L to the pocket on Suck Ethics. Layback straight up to finish.</climb> <climb extra="Þ" grade="24" length="15m" name="Anaphalaxis" number="" stars="**" id="14" fa="Simon Parsons, Apr 1982.">A sustained line up the centre of the cliff with a very hard crux start. To leave the ground, either step up then 'dyno' for a hold at 3m, or use the good initial hold to follow the weakness on the L to the horizontal break. Continue up to the small roof and a huge jug just below a rightwards trending overlap. Follow this past the mono (if you're tall enough) then power on to the top. Another chipped (and now glued up!) classic.</climb> <climb extra="Þ" grade="25" length="15m" name="Play Launch" number="" stars="*" id="15" fa="Evan Peacock, May 1993.">Re-bolted 2011. Another good, sustained route. Start: either do the desperate reachy start (25) or, much more pleasantly, come in from Anaphalaxis (from the L).</climb> <climb extra="Þ" grade="24" guide.action="submit" guide.id="13" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="15m" name="Wasted Daze" number="" stars="" id="16">The only things wasted after this climb are your fingertips - you won't spend days on it! Power up the tweaky holds, past a bolt, to a jug. Continue easily up then move leftwards until below the overlap, follow the LH of two final U-bolts using the two-finger pocket to the L to obtain the solitary jug in the smooth face, mantle the ledge above and move R to chains.</climb> <climb extra="Þ" grade="25" guide.action="submit" guide.id="22" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="15m" name="Wasted Daze RH Variant Finish" number="" stars="" id="17">At the final overlap on WD a tricky move R leads to an alternative finish past a U-bolt leading to the WD chains.</climb> <climb extra="TR" grade="26" length="15m" name="Mozzie Fodder" number="" stars="" id="18" fa="Evan Peacock, Oct 1992.">TR: Must be brushed first, the route is thin and smeary. 2 bolt TR anchors at the top. Start: virtually at General Benefit, but shares none of the holds, stay just L of General Benefit then head leftwards at two-thirds height.</climb> <climb extra="4Þ" grade="22" length="15m" name="General Benefit" number="" stars="" id="19" fa="Simon Parsons, Apr 1982.">The wall 2m L of Bondage and Discipline. The current speed record (from ground level to a hand on the jug at the very top) is held by Evan Peacock at 27 seconds, but the departure of some significant holds have made things more difficult. After the initial (crux) start, continue up easily through layaways and good holds to more difficult moves just after the second bolt. After gaining the crack, finish up the dirty jugs above. (Editors note: the large flake recently fell off, plus a fairly crucial hold further up, and the grade has definitely increased from the original 19!).</climb> <climb extra="TR" grade="20" length="15m" name="General Discipline" number="" stars="" id="20" fa="Justin Kennedy, 1984.">TR: Located halfway between General Benefit and Bondage and Discipline the naming of this climb showed remarkable originality. Best take a brush to the cliff before trying this one! Start up Bondage and Discipline until alongside the roof. Climb straight up to a good pocket, then ascend the steep wall above (trending slightly R) on small and well spaced holds.</climb> <climb extra="Þ" grade="20" length="15m" name="Bondage and Discipline" number="" stars="" id="21" fa="Phil Steane Nov 82. ">A fairly sustained route which gets more strenuous with height. Climb directly up until alongside the roof (where a piton used to exist before gravity got the better of it and a climber). Traverse R 2m, past the scar left as another large block jumped ship, then ascend the overhanging face above. Up this to lower-off above.</climb> <climb extra="Þ" grade="23" length="15m" name="Bad Habits" number="" stars="" id="22">Start immediately R of Bondage and Discipline before the ground falls away. Move up and to the R, past a U-bolt, to good jugs at half height. Continue up the steep wall past the second U-bolt, then ascend the blankish face (crux) above the third U-bolt. TR anchor at top.</climb> <climb id="27" stars="" extra="5Þ" number="" name="Gibbon Habits" length="15m" grade="21" fa="">Start as for Bad Habits for the first 2 bolts then head right round the arete and up to the large heuco, head up to the chains.</climb> <climb extra="TR" grade="23" length="15m" name="Genital Thrust" number="" stars="" id="23" fa="TR Peter Steane, 1984.">TR: On the extreme R of the cliff, the ground falls away: start here. Ascend the initial overhanging face. Move L around the arête, then continue up past the bolts of Bad Habits. The climb makes a pleasant lead if you start by stick-clipping the first bolt of Bad Habits.</climb> <climb extra="TR" grade="21" length="15m" name="Gibbon Tactics" number="" stars="" id="24" fa="TR Richard Marshall, Feb 1987.">TR: Start as for Genital Thrust. Climb straight through the overhang, then ascend the RH side of the prow. Finish via the hole (visible from the ground). Good value.</climb> <climb extra="TR" grade="25" length="15m" name="This is Steep Mum" number="" stars="" id="25" fa="TR Evan Peacock, Jan 1993.">TR: Although the rock looks shitty (certainly for protection), this is an excellent route, a really good pump for the length and it awaits a direct variant. Start about 2m R of GT/GT, set up TR belay from a tree about 5m L and uphill from the top of the climb.</climb> </guide> |