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<guide guidestars="*">
  <header id="82" name="Waverly Park" walk="5 min" sun="Sunny" rock="Sandstone" acknowledgement="" intro="Waverly Park on the eastern shore of Hobart provides some nice sandstone problems with easy access. The park contains four areas - Rosny Rocks, The Reservoir, Bellerive Boulder, and Clarence Crag. Access for each is described below." history="" access="" camping="" autonumber="false"/>
  <gps new="true" id="4">
    <point code="WAV010" description="The Reservoir" easting="531845" height="158" northing="5254010" zone="55G" latitude="-42.86584" longitude="147.38985" pid="0"/>
    <point code="WAV020" description="Bellerive Boulder" easting="531523" height="0" northing="5253606" zone="55G" latitude="-42.86949" longitude="147.38593" pid="1"/>
    <point pid="0" latitude="-42.86760" longitude="147.38608" easting="531536" northing="5253815" zone="55G" code="WAV030" description="Rosny Rocks"/>
    <point pid="1" latitude="-42.86978" longitude="147.38748" easting="531649" northing="5253572" zone="55G" code="WAV040" description="Clarence Crag"/>
    <point pid="2" description="The Reservoir" latitude="-42.86588" longitude="147.38978" easting="531839" northing="5254005" zone="55G"/>
    <point pid="3" description="Bellerive boulder" latitude="-42.86949" longitude="147.38601" easting="531529" northing="5253605" zone="55G"/>
  </gps>
  <image src="Waverly Parkmap3.jpg" id="3" height="608"/>
  <text class="heading2" id="5">Rosny Rocks</text>
  <text class="access" new="false" number="null." id="6">Drive over the Tasman Bridge to Rosny. Just after you pass the shopping centre you will reach a roundabout. Turn left at this and continue past a couple sets of traffic lights, then turn right onto Quarry Road. Drive to the end of this road and park at the gate of Waverly Park. The boulders are visible up the hill on the left. Walk up the track for a few minutes and then turn left onto another track just before a large stump. This track goes pretty well straight to the boulders and takes about 5 minutes. Follow the line of boulders to the left to the obvious overhanging prow on the first topo. There are a few more easy problems on the aretes and slabs up to the left.</text>
  <image src="Waverly Parkrosny1.jpg" id="7" height="397"/>
  <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="       " number="1." stars="       " id="8">Up slab</problem>
  <problem extra="(Highball, SDS)" grade="V3" name="       " number="2." stars="       " id="9">Sitstart at right side of overhang, up to slot then straight up</problem>
  <problem extra="(Highball, SDS)" grade="V4" name="       " number="3." stars="" id="10" length="" fa="">Start as for previous, out to chipped jug, then straight up</problem>
  <problem extra="(Highball, SDS)" grade="V?" name="Chipped" number="4." stars="       " id="11">The steepest section of the overhang is very hard on small holds. The landing is pretty bad though, so a top rope may be prudent as the hardest moves are at the top. The Jacksons have managed to do this problem without using the chipped holds as 'a worthy statement against the absolutely crap chipping effort'.</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V10" name="Carunga" number="5." stars="       " id="12">Start on the jug on the right side of black cave behind the steep prow. Traverse leftward on small pockets</problem>
  <text class="access" id="13">Just down to the right is a small cave</text>
  <image src="Waverly Parkrosny3.jpg" id="14" height="289"/>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V4" name="       " number="1." stars="       " id="15">Start in the cave on underclings and climb out</problem>
  <text class="access" id="16">The vertical wall to the right. The following problems all have lichenous topouts, brush them before climbing.</text>
  <image src="Waverly Parkrosny2.jpg" id="17" height="339"/>
  <problem extra="(Highball, Stand)" grade="V0" name="       " number="1." stars="       " id="18">Arete</problem>
  <problem extra="(Highball, SDS)" grade="V2?" name="       " number="2." stars="       " id="19">Up face to lichenous mantle</problem>
  <problem extra="(Highball, SDS)" grade="V1" name="       " number="3." stars="       " id="20">Juggy face to hairy topout</problem>
  <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V2" name="       " number="4." stars="       " id="21">Pockets on face 1m left of crack</problem>
  <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="       " number="5." stars="       " id="22">Crack</problem>
  <text class="access" id="23">The right hand side of the face</text>
  <image src="Waverly Parkrosny4.jpg" id="24" height="360"/>
  <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" name="       " number="6." stars="       " id="25">Arete and face</problem>
  <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V2" name="       " number="7." stars="       " id="26">Start at arete and traverse leftwards to finish up 1</problem>
  <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" name="       " new="false" number="8." stars="" id="27">Up face and capstone</problem>
  <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="       " number="9." stars="       " id="28">Go right up face</problem>
  <text class="access" id="29">Further down to the right are the first rocks you encounter when accessing the area. The landing is pretty bad.</text>
  <image src="Waverly Parkrosny5.jpg" id="30" height="352"/>
  <problem extra="(Highball, Stand)" grade="V1" name="       " number="1." stars="       " id="31">Up arete and face</problem>
  <problem extra="(Highball, Stand)" grade="V0" name="       " number="2." stars="       " id="32"/>
  <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" name="       " number="3." stars="       " id="33">Rightwards up face</problem>
  <text class="heading2" id="34">The Reservoir (aka Mornington Rocks)</text>
  <text class="text" new="false" number="null." id="35">These nice boulders are one of the best spots for after work bouldering in Hobart. They also stay reasonably warm on winter afternoons, but seep after heavy rain. Follow the map and park where marked, at the gate off Aruma St. Walk up the road to the reservoir. Skirt around on the left and follow some dirt tracks to directly behind the reservoir. The top of the boulder is another 20 - 30 meters just before the hill drops off, facing down the hill towards the highway. The rock is a little sandy in places, but the access is very easy, so its worth a look. Be careful of the rock here after rain - quite a few holds have broken off when they have been damp.</text>
  <text id="84" class="text">Erosion has been an ongoing problem at this boulder. Erosion matting has been placed to try and stop the landings heading down the hill. If its showing through at all get some dirt and leaf litter and scatter it around over the landing areas. Please don't remove ground cover.</text>
  <text class="text" id="36">The small boulder to the left of the main face has a couple of short and very easy problems good for absolute beginners or kids.</text>
  <text class="heading3" id="37">The Left Side</text>
  <image src="Waverly Parkreservoir3.jpg" id="38" height="229"/>
  <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="Mr Brown" number="1." stars="       " id="39">Left arete of face</problem>
  <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V?" name="       " number="2." stars="       " id="40">Project - start as for Mr Brown and traverse the whole crag rightwards to finish up Scorpions</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V1" name="Mr White" number="3." stars="*" id="41">SDS and up the left side of the face to slopey top out</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V2/3" name="Mr Pink" number="4." stars="       " id="42">SDS and up centre of face to nasty slopey top out</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="Mr Blonde" number="5." stars="*" id="43">Start at right side of face, up and slightly left to jug then straight up left side of groove to top out</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="       " number="5a." stars="**" id="44">Start as for Mr Blonde up to the jug, then traverse leftwards along the line of jugs, and finish up Mr Brown. A great warm up.</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V4" name="       " new="false" number="6." stars="" id="45">Start as for Mr Blonde, but go right up seam then up right side of groove to desperate top out.</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V5" name="Early Minute" new="false" number="7." stars="" id="46">Start as for no. 6. but traverse rightwards on thin holds along lip to finish up Reservoir Dogs</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V5" name="Nice Guy Eddie" new="false" number="8." stars="*" id="47">Up diagonal crack from awkward sitstart, either on slopers or underclings. Most people use the big flat sloper on Reservoir Dogs as well.</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V7" name="Big Gay Al" new="false" number="8a." stars="*" id="48">Start as for Nice Guy Eddie, at the start of the crack. Move up to side pull / underclings in crack then straight up using sandy pinch. Up to lip then exit up right.</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="Reservoir Dogs" new="false" number="9." stars="*" id="49">Sit start on the big flat slope and up. Some people think this is pretty hard for V3, but my response is - go see how hard a V3 is in Hueco!</problem>
  <text class="heading3" id="50">The Right Side</text>
  <problem id="81" stars="**" extra="(Hang)" number="1a." name="Disabled Dog" length="" grade="V6" fa="T. Krauss Feb, 2013">Start as for Reservoir Dogs, do the first two moves to the slopey crimp and traverse right via big move into Dis-Abeled and finish as for same.</problem>
  <image src="Waverly Parkreservoir4.jpg" id="51" height="266">
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    </drawing>
    <legend>
      <climb>81</climb>
      <climb>83</climb>
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  </image>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V6" name="Dis-Abeled" new="false" number="1." stars="**" id="52">SDS on the jug, climb straight up, avoiding the left hand diagonal. Can be done as a stand start at about V3.</problem>
  <problem id="83" stars="**" extra="(SDS)" number="2" name="Leisure Class" length="" grade="V6" fa="Simon Bischoff, Alex Hartshorne 2020">A better line that Dis-Abeled as it's not contrived by not using the left hand diagonal. SDS start on the Dis-abeled jug, make a move straight up to the bad crimp above the big right hand side pull, instead of going straight up head slightly right using series of side pulls for the right hand and slopey crimp with the left.</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name="       " number="2." stars="       " id="53">Project - sit start just right of the arete, up to lip then straight up line of slopey side pulls. Mega hard.</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V7" name="       " number="3." stars="       " id="54">Start as for Scorpions, traverse left and finish up Reservoir Dogs, may be easier in the cold</problem>
  <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V7" name="       " number="4." stars="       " id="55">Stand start using slopes on top of roof and go left to top out. A sit start project exists</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="Scorpions" number="5." stars="*" id="56">SDS up rib and bridge up left corner to top. Don't reach right.</problem>
  <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="       " number="6." stars="       " id="57">Climb the slab and corner just to the right of Scorpions</problem>
  <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="       " number="7." stars="       " id="58">Up nose right of Scorpions</problem>
  <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" name="       " number="       " stars="       " id="59">Left side of slab to the right no. 7. Don't use crack on L.</problem>
  <problem id="80" grade="V1" extra="(Stand)" name=" ">Centre of slab.</problem>
  <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V2" name="       " number="       " stars="       " id="60">Right side of slab, don't use layaways on R edge of slab</problem>
  <text class="heading2" id="61">Clarence Crag</text>
  <text class="intro" id="62">A new area that is development. On the same hill as the Reservoir, facing Clarence and Bellerive. Some nice sloper problems and highballs.</text>
  <text class="heading2" id="63">Bellerive Boulder</text>
  <text class="text" id="64">This area has a handful of good problems. It is on the hill facing Bellerive, and tends to be a bit wet and cold in winter. To get there park as for Rosny Rocks, in Carawa Street. Walk up the track to the top of the hill, then turn left on to a sandy track. Keep going straight ahead on the foot pad which ends up at the top of the boulder.</text>
  <text class="text" new="false" number="null." id="65">MGA94 (GDA94): 55G 0531523mE 5253606mN</text>
  <image src="Waverly Parkbb2.jpg" id="66" height="311"/>
  <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V?" name="The David Boon Memorial Traverse" number="1." stars="       " id="67">Project - from the far left of the boulder traverse L-R to finish up Joker's. Very hard past the arete.</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V4" name="Calcutta" number="2." stars="       " id="68">Sitstart at two pockets on the left hand edge of the boulder and up over bulge, going left to finish (going right is harder)</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V5/6" name="Bowling for Columbine" number="3." stars="**" id="69">Sitstart on good flat hold, right to double pockets and up to slopes on lip</problem>
  <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V2" name="       " number="4." stars="       " id="70">Mantle on big flat hold</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V4" name="Boonanza" new="false" number="5." stars="*" id="71">Sitstart at arete and then traverse leftwards 5m to finish up no 3. You could keep going leftwards to the end, but the moves aren't all that good.</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V5/6" name="Gold" new="false" number="6." stars="**" id="72">Up the arete, starting with bulge then on to sketchy slab</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="Joker&apos;s Jackpot" number="7." stars="       " id="73">Face and mantle 2m right of the arete.</problem>
  <text class="text" id="74">There are some more problems on the boulder to the right of the main one.</text>
  <image src="Waverly Parkbb3.jpg" id="75" height="427"/>
  <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="Bellerive Beach" number="       " stars="       " id="76">Sandy jugs opposite Joker's Jackpot</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" name="       " number="1." stars="       " id="77">Sitstart and up over bulge</problem>
  <problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name="       " number="2." stars="       " id="78"/>
  <problem extra="(Stand)" grade="VE" name="       " number="3." stars="       " id="79"/>
</guide>