<guide><header id="122" name="The Gorge" walk="1-10 min" sun="Sunny Side - all day; Shady Side - morning only; Basin - till late afternoon; Duck Reach - till early afternoon" rock="Dolerite" acknowledgement="By Mark Polinski" intro="Bouldering in the Cataract Gorge is just as good as the route climbing. Indeed, a lot of the boulders are more easily accessed, stay cleaner, and provide more variety in movement then many of the routes. The rock is exclusively dolerite, often requiring more technique and problem solving ability that physical brawn. Nevertheless, there are still a number of thug-fests to be had, and overall a good mix of styles and movements are available. Although a crashpad is desirable, many problems can easily be done without, particularly on the Shady Side. For the purpose of this guide, the climbing is broken up into four areas: the Sunny Side, Shady Side, Basin, and Duck Reach. Almost all the climbing described is either track or riverside, and can be accessed within 10 min from the nearest car park. One point that should be stressed is that this area is used by a lot of people that are not climbers. If climbers/boulderers become a nuisance rather than an amusing attraction for these individuals, our activities could easily and rapidly be brought to an end. Therefore, when bouldering trackside be courteous to people passing by and don’t block the track with your pads and posse of spotters. If you do need a pad in the path, pick it up when people approach, and if the procession seems to be relentless then maybe you should pick an alternative time to try your problem. " access="Bouldering on the Sunny Side is best accessed from the south end of Kings Bridge up the Zig-Zag track. The Shady Side can either be accessed via the Kings Bridge entrance on the North side and walking up river, or from the Gorge Restaurant carpark on the Trevallyn side and heading down river. The Basin can also be accessed via the Restaurant side, the Basin carpark on the West Launceston side, or walking up 10 min from Kings Bridge. All these areas are within easy walking distance of each other. The Duck Reach area requires either a 30min walk up from the basin or a 5 min drive to the Duck Reach Power Station carpark on the West side." camping="Although a few vans (and even a tent) have been seen to occasionally overnight around the Basin carpark, it is not recommended. Best find accommodations in town or drive somewhere out of town to camp. "/><text class="heading2" id="3">The Sunny Side</text><text class="access" id="4">The climbing on the Sunny Side is described in order of appearance as approached from Kings Bridge. The first boulder is approximately 50m up the zig-zag track just left of the trail</text><text id="123" class="heading3">1st Boulder</text><image id="124" src="Sunny Side First Boulder.jpg" width="400"/><problem id="125" number="1." name="Dowstream Arete" grade="V2/3" extra="(Highball, Stand)">Start off a short broken slab below and climb up the blunt arête via sidepulls and crimps. Feels fairly tall when you get up onto it.</problem><problem id="126" stars="**" number="2." name="Mantlecore" grade="V5/6" extra="(Stand)">Classic balancey ledge mantle, although somewhat height dependent. Start on some small crimps at head height, make a move up to the slanted rail and mantle up to a good hold and top out. The crack to the right is off. It may seem scary, but the fall and landing for this is actually quite good.</problem><problem id="129" stars="*" number="3." name="Boulder Crack" grade="V0" extra="(SDS)">Jam your way to Glory</problem><text id="130" class="heading3">Second Set</text><text id="131">These problems are on a group of boulder faces 20-25 meters past the 1st boulder just off the track on the left</text><image id="132" src="Sunny Side Second Set.jpg" width="600"/><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="A1" number="1." stars="*" id="6">Climb the first low angle blunt arête.</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name=" " number="2." stars=" " id="7">Corner between aretes</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V1" name="A2 " number="3." stars="*" id="8">Start on a low jug on the right side of the arete and pull up and over into easier climbing</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V4" name="4's a Crowd" number="4." stars="*" id="9">Start on two opposing sidepulls and climb just left of the corner without using the other boulder to the right.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V6" name="4C variant " number="4b." stars=" " id="10">Start as for A2 and traverse rightwards to finish up 4's a Crowd.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V4" name="Five for Five " number="5." stars="*" id="12">Start squeezing on a good LH sidepull in the gap and a not so good RH sidepull a little low down. Continue up more sidepulling to the top without using the other boulder to the left.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name=" Unnamed " number="6." stars=" " id="13">A few meters right of the previous climbs is an arête juts out into the Track. Start on a good left-facing sidepull block under the low roof and climb over the point to top out.</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" name="Unnamed" number="7." stars=" " id="14">Climbs the featured face about 2 meters right of the previous arête </problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V5" name="Glass Knife" number="8." stars=" " id="15">Above and behind the climbs just described is a second tier. Climb the clean blunt corner up thin crimps to a crux at the top</problem><text id="133" class="heading3">Seif Buttress </text><text id="134">Continuing up the track from the second set maybe 100 meters or so (just after the first switch back) is the 8m Seif Buttress. There are 3 routes described here in the route climbing guide that all start the same directly off the track - the left crack at grade 18, the center arete at 20, and the right-leaning crack at about 18 as well. Additionally there is a shorter V0 up the back (also the downclimb) which can be used to access the anchors on top. All of these routes can, and have, been done as bouldering/soloing and with the advent of modern pads and trends in recent bouldering an 8m V0 or V1 is well within reason and thus warrants mention here. Nevertheless, a fall from the top could still land you in some serious trouble so treat them with the respect they deserve.</text><text id="135" class="heading3">Feltham Boulders</text><text id="136">There are two Boulders at the top of the Feltham Buttress that currently have problems. Access as for the routes by hopping the fence at the first little overlook and following the climbers track down the hill to your left. In less than 100 m You will see a large retangular boulder, Condensed Ham is on the downhill side.</text><image id="139" src="Feltham boulders.jpg" width="600"/><problem id="137" stars="**" number="1." name="Condensed Ham" grade="V8" extra="(Hang)">A nice balance of tension and compression. Start on a small crimp and sloper at the far left side of a slopy rail (a toe-hook may help to get you started). Move right to the knife-blade arête and top out.</problem><problem id="138" number="2." name="Green Eggs" grade="V6" extra="(Highball, SDS)">If standing in front of Condensed Ham, this boulder is about 7 meters back and to the right. Start matched on a low right facing sidepull and trend slightly leftwards over the buldge to a tricky top out. Although not technically high, the landing slopes severely and only to be mitigated by the fact that if you fall from the crux (which is near the top) you'd likely land in a bush that would keep you from rolling down the hill.....maybe. </problem><text class="heading2" id="16">The Shady Side</text><text class="access" id="17">From Kings Bridge walk along the tourist track. The areas are grouped by the light posts they are near. Each light post is marked with a number such as "LP 5". Problems are described right to left as you come to them.</text><text id="140" class="heading3">Welcome Boulder</text><image id="143" src="Welcom boulder.jpg" width="400"/><problem id="141" number="1" name="Welcome to the Gorge" grade="V2/3" extra="(Stand)">Start on the pedestal and climb up the arête directly over the track. As a pad pretty much blocks the track for this one, trying it at say 5pm on a sunny summer afternoon is probably not a great idea.</problem><problem id="142" stars="*" number="2" name="Artistic Stairway" grade="2" extra="(SDS)">Better climbing and more out of the way than it's neighbour. Start on the Pedistal at the bottom of the stairs that lead up to the house and climb past a few sidepulls to a large sloper with a crack in the back. Move directly up to the lip and top out.</problem><text class="heading3" id="18">The Love Wall</text><text id="146">Just past LP5 a buttress comes out and runs parallel to the track. The word "love" is currently graffitied on the downriver side.</text><image id="147" src="LP 5 - Love Wall.jpg" width="500"/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V0/1" name=" Unnamed " number="1." stars="*" id="20">Sit start on low underclings about 1 meter left of the corner and move up and right on good sidepulls to a jug at about 3 meter height. Drop or downclimb from here</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="Walkin' Tall" number="2." stars="**" id="21">Sit start on the low underling as per #1, but move left traversing through more underclings to finish on jugs in the crack at about 2.5 meters height.</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V3" name="Sacrafice " number="3." stars="*" id="22">Start in the Crack where the previous problelm finished off (even better if you climbed into it from the previous problem, although it doesn't change the overall grade) and traverse left through some thin crimps and tricky footwork to finish on good holds in the next verticle offwidth crack.</problem><image id="148" src="Love wall continued.jpg" width="500"/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V7" name="Septar" number="4." stars="**" id="23">Sit start LH on a low sidepull crimp, and RH a little higher in an arching undercling feature. Move up to a good incut crimp and small edge and then to a good rail. Traverse the rail rightwards through the corner and finish as per #5 by stepping off in the elevated cave. Although the crux is technically over within the first few moves, you may want to at least have a look at the rest lest you find yourself in trouble once you've done the opening.</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V3" name="Option 2" number="5." stars="*" id="24">Start in the corner on some good holds and traverse left though a cool double handed pinch to finish by stepping off onto the raised platform in the small cave. The original intent for the problem was to head straight up just before the end (which has been done at about V6) however some of the upper hold are ready to break and are continually dirty due to water flow, not to mention the epic downclimb, so the idea was nixed. Feel free to rekindle the option though if it strikes your fancy.</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V8" name="The Love Traverse" number="6." stars="*" id="25">The full traverse of the Love wall. Start standing on the crack used in #1, reverse this down to it's low undercling start and proceed through problems 2 and 3 which can then be linked into 4 and 5. More moves than most of the routes you'll climb in the gorge.</problem><text class="heading3" id="26">Heckle Area</text><text class="access" id="27">About 30m down the track is a little roof with an offwidth to the right. This is the Heckle area.</text><image id="150" src="Heckle Area.jpg" width="600"/><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V4" name="Trickster" number="1." stars="*" id="29">From offwidth traverse rightwards across face and bridge through the corner to finish in the crack on the right. A technical masterpiece.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V3/4" name="Unnamed " number="2." stars="*" id="30">Sit down and start under the roof by squeezing the lowest part of the roof (LH) and the left side of the verticle crack (RH) slap up with compression to reach the jugs just over the lip. Mantle these jugs and stand on them for the finish. For the purpose of this exercise, the crack to the right is off</problem><problem id="99" stars="*" number="2b." name="Back Talk" grade="V8" extra="(SDS)">An eliminate, but still good if your looking for a little more difficulty. From a good low corner edge just down and left of the roof move rightwards via RH small edges under the roof and a improbable but usable LH slopy pinch and squeeze across and up to the jugs. Finish standing on this (as per the V3). The good hold up and left from the sitstart is not part of the problem.</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V5" name="Heckle Traverse" number="3." stars="*" id="31">Start 2m left of the arete on the good edges you would have avoided in #2b. Traverse rightwards around the arete to the crack and finish as for number 1.</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V3" name=" " number="4." stars=" " id="32">From holds 2m left of the arete climb up seam to high jug</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V3" name=" " number="5." stars=" " id="33">From the holds at the start of the Heckle Traverse, go left past corner into the next corner</problem><text class="heading3" id="34">LP 9</text><image id="151" src="LP 9.jpg" width="500"/><problem id="152" number="1." stars="**" name="Spunk" grade="V6" extra="(SDS)">A really nice problem. Start on good holds at waist height just left of the arête. Move right around the point then up to the thin seam and up again to a good crimp rail just above. Either drop from here (easiest option),or continue right and finish as per #2 which adds a few moves but doesn't really change the grade.</problem><problem id="153" stars="***" number="1b." name="Spunk extension (aka Spunky Monkey assis)" grade="V7" extra="(Highball, SDS)">Climb Spunk up to the crimp rail and continue up the Arête to the the top. The stand start to this is a 2 bolt climb (Spunky Monkey 27), but the whole line starting from the sit can easily be bouldered with a pad or two. The easiest decent is to downclimb the grade 19 just to the left of the arête. A topout is possible but not recommended.</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V4" name="LP9 traverse " number="2." stars=" " id="36">Start by hoping up to the ledge about 4 meters left of the arête and traverse rightwards around the corner until the thin horizontal seam peters out in the corner.</problem><image src="The Gorgelp9-2.jpg" id="37"/><problem extra=" " grade="V3" name=" " number="1." stars=" " id="38">Up face to sloper</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V?" name=" " number="2." stars=" " id="39">Up arete without using crack</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V2/3" name=" " number="3." stars=" " id="40">Traverse leftward from one arete to the next</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V5" name=" " number="4." stars=" " id="41">Blank corner to the left, near LP 10. Climb until "you get too scared".</problem><text class="heading3" id="42">LP 12</text><image src="The Gorgelp12.jpg" id="43"/><problem extra=" " grade="V2" name=" " number="1." stars=" " id="44">Rising hand traverse near LP 12</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V1" name=" " number="2." stars=" " id="45">Arete near LP 12 without using crack</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V4" name=" " number="3." stars=" " id="46">Up overhanging face without using big holds to the left</problem><text class="heading3" id="47">LP 14</text><problem extra=" " grade="V4/5" name=" " number="1." stars=" " id="48">Sloping traverse from right arete to corner near LP14</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V2" name=" " number="2." stars=" " id="49">Traverse rightwards from LP15 to corner</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V4" name=" " number=" " stars=" " id="50">Climb around detached boulder near LP16</problem><text id="101" class="heading3">LP 16 - Lone Pillar</text><image id="118" src="gorgepillar.jpg"/><problem id="102" number="1." name=" " extra="(SDS)" grade="V5">Excellent problem, high mantle top-out then down climb and jump on to pads.</problem><text class="heading3" id="51">LP 17</text><image src="The Gorgelp17.jpg" id="52"/><problem extra=" " grade="V1" name=" " number="1." stars=" " id="53">Short arete to the left of LP17</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V2" name=" " number="2." stars=" " id="54">5m to the left, climb face off park bench</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V3" name=" " number="3." stars=" " id="55">Right hand start to arete</problem><problem extra="(Highball)" grade="V3/4" name="Henry Barber's Arete" number="4." stars=" " id="56">Only use the arete</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V3" name=" " number="5." stars=" " id="57">Layback up left side of arete</problem><text class="heading3" id="58">LP 23</text><image src="The Gorgelp23.jpg" id="59"/><problem extra=" " grade="V2" name=" " number="1." stars=" " id="60">Face and mantle right of LP23</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V3" name=" " number="2." stars=" " id="61">Traverse rightward along slopes</problem><text class="heading3" id="62">LP 25</text><problem extra=" " grade="V1" name=" " number="1." stars=" " id="63">Arete left of LP25</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V2/3" name=" " number="2." stars=" " id="64">Slab with hole at the bottom</problem><text class="heading3" id="65">LP 27</text><image src="The Gorgelp27.jpg" id="66"/><problem extra="(Highball)" grade="V1/2" name=" " number="1." stars=" " id="67">Layback wide crack right of LP 27</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V1" name=" " number="2." stars=" " id="68">Span between crack and arete</problem><text class="heading3" id="69">LP 28</text><problem extra=" " grade="V3" name=" " number="1." stars=" " id="70">Arete and face right of LP28</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V4" name=" " number="2." stars=" " id="71">Traverse into blank corner left of LP28 from underclings 2m to the right of corner</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V2" name=" " number="3." stars=" " id="72">From arete left of corner traverse left 4m</problem><text class="heading3" id="73">Double Dozen</text><text class="access" id="74">Double Dozen is the prominent finger crack in the buttress behind the next lookout.</text><image src="The Gorgedoubledozen.jpg" id="75"/><problem extra=" " grade="V1" name="Double Dozen" number="1." stars=" " id="76">Climb the start of Double Dozen to the ledge</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V5" name=" " number="2." stars=" " id="77">Traverse leftwards from the start of Double Dozen to the corner, without using the ledge</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V4/5" name=" " number="3." stars=" " id="78">Climb the face left of Double Dozen to the ledge, don't use the edge on DD</problem><text class="access" id="79">The left hand side of the Double Dozen buttress.</text><image src="The Gorgedoubledozen2.jpg" id="80"/><problem extra=" " grade="V1" name=" " number="1." stars=" " id="81">Traverse left from crack to arete</problem><problem extra="(Stand)" grade="V7/8" name=" Double Jump " number="2." stars="**" id="82">Start on the large jug on the arete about 2.2m above the ground and huck for the rail up and left. Finish on the large undercling directly above the start hold.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V8" name=" Double Does It " number="3." stars="**" id="83">Sit start with a small right hand sidepull crimp just left of the blunt arete and left hand on a small gaston crimp just above a right facing slopy rail. Climb straight up via some large span moves to a bad right hand pinch and then exit out right to the rail. Traverse this to finish as Double Jump.</problem><text class="heading3" id="84">LP 34</text><problem extra=" " grade="V3" name=" " number="1." stars=" " id="85">Low traverse from left to right 8m past LP 34, finish on ledge near stump</problem><text class="heading3" id="86">LP 36 - Right Boulder</text><text id="113">There are a few freestanding boulders at LP36. Most of the problems could use a brush. Described from right to left.</text><problem extra=" " grade="V3" name=" " number="1." stars=" " id="87">Start in cave at sharp edge, finish on top of boulder</problem><problem id="104" number="2." name="" grade="V?">Mantel the slopey left side. Needs a clean!</problem><text id="105" class="heading3">LP36 - Protruding Boulder</text><image id="116" src="gorgeprotruding1.jpg"/><problem id="106" name="" number="1." grade="V?">Climb up the tall wall above a block.
</problem><problem id="107" grade="V?" number="2.">From the support block, reach a sloper and jump to the top. Looks easy but gutsy as the landing drops away.
</problem><problem extra=" " grade="V2" name=" " number="3." stars=" " id="89">Mantle onto the boulder overhanging the path</problem><problem id="109" number="4." grade="V?">Sitstart the obvious jug and traverse right to gain and mantel the nose.
</problem><image id="117" src="gorgeprotruding2.jpg"/><problem id="110" name="" grade="V?" number="5.">From the obvious jug, pull up the slopey side of the boulder.
</problem><problem id="111" extra="(SDS)" grade="V5" number="6." name="Lock Lively">Sitstart at the good edge on the lip, with a foot on the slab to the right. Pull up to a good sidepull and the top.</problem><problem id="120" number="7." grade="V6" extra="(Hang)" name=" ">On the boulder left of Lock Lively. Hand traverse along the lip (may be easier footless) to the left arete then a big lock move to gain a hold high on the slab.</problem><text id="112" class="heading3">LP37 - Overhanging Face</text><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V10" name="Urak-Hai" number="4." stars="***" id="90">THE boulder problem in the Gorge. Directly behind LP 37 is an obvious overhanging face. Sit start with right hand low on a right facing slopy side-pull and left hand on a dimpled sloper under the arete. Thug your way through crompression moves with horrible feet straight up to mantle. Avoiding the first move by starting with your right hand up on the lowest good edge is V8 and quite a good alternative if you find you can't pull off the ground.</problem><text id="114" class="heading3">LP43 - Undercut Bulge</text><image id="119" src="gorgebulge.jpg"/><problem id="115" number="1," name="Project">Tackle the undercut bulge, with a tricky top. Top needs a clean. V6? A sitter from the break, via the big sidepull should be possible. V8?
</problem><text class="heading2" id="91">Duck Reach</text><text class="text" new="false" number="null." id="92">There are quite a few nice sculpted boulders in the river bed both upstream and downstream from Duck Reach. The boulders just near Flooded Rocks are quite good. There is probably a lot that has been climbed on here, but equally there are a lot of nice looking boulders that need a good scrub.</text><text class="text" new="false" number="null." id="93">This nice steep boulder is down at the river below Seize the Day:</text><image new="false" number="null." src="duckreach1.jpg" width="" id="94">null</image><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" name="" new="false" number="1." stars="**" id="95">Nice steep line starting on left side of boulder.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name="" new="false" number="2." stars="" id="96"/><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name="" new="false" number="3." stars="" id="97">Up steep prow.</problem><problem extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" name="" new="false" number="4." stars="" id="98">Right hand side of boulder.</problem></guide>
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