<guide version="3">
  <header access="Teardrop Gully comprises two sections, the gully above Step Tier (Upper Teardrop Gully) and the gully below Step Tier (Lower Teardrop Gully). Currently the best way to access climbs in Upper Teardrop Gully is from the summit carpark. From the Lookout Shelter head down and across the screes (see topo in the guide Introduction) heading in the general direction of the northern tip of Bruny Island. After several hundred metres look for the rusty pipe and cairn that mark the top of the gully (GPS MTW180). Access to Lower Teardrop Gully is from the bottom." acknowledgement="" history="" intro="Teardrop Gully has some good cragging in the shade. The first bolted routes on the Pipes were done here in the early nineties, and the area has continued to produce some good sport and mixed routes." name="Teardrop Gully" rock="Single pitch dolerite buttresses, quite a few sport routes" sun="Not much sun" walk="15 min down from the summit" id="1"/>
  


  <text class="heading2" id="2">Upper Teardrop Gully
  </text>
  <text class="text" id="3">This section is described from top to bottom (L to R). Note: The bolts on older routes still with carrot bolts have large heads, and will only take the older RP brackets or sliding wires.
  </text>
  <text class="heading3" id="4">Dark Side</text>
  <text class="text" id="5">This area was described in old guides as Teardrop Wall. Access via rap station down and L (facing out) from the top of Ano's Sojourn; avoiding the short, but tricky downclimb into the gully, the scene of a serious accident in 2003.</text>
  <text class="text" id="6">Descent: Most bolted routes have their own lower-off, otherwise use the rap station near Ano's Sojourn.
  </text><image src="teardropGullyPrint.jpg" width="800" id="7">null</image>
 
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="10m" name="Ano's Sojourn" number="AS" stars="**" id="8" fa="M. Collie, D. Fife, Apr 1981.">An entertaining workout to test your jamming skills. A distinct hand crack on the LHS of the gully (looking down) 20m below the top. Jam the straight crack through the overlap to the top.</climb>

<climb extra="4Þ ↓" grade="24" length="12m" name="Turkey Slap  " number="TS" stars="*" id="9" fa="D. McConnell, M. McMinn, A. Drenen, Jan 2007.">The bolted arête 15m downhill from Ano's Sojourn. Climb face and arête past a low crux to DBB.</climb>

  <climb extra="" grade="13" length="20m" name="Sweepings" stars="" id="10" fa="S. Scott, M. Stone, Mar 1981.">Start 3m to the L and above Suzerain, on a small platform behind Ceci N'est Pas Une Pipe. Up the crack in the wall which becomes a shallow corner, exiting R to finish.</climb>

  <climb extra="4Þ ↓" grade="19" length="10m" name="Ceci N'est Pas une Pipe" number="CN" stars="*" id="11" fa="R. Parkyn, Nov 1991.">Pronounced 'sersi nay parz une peep'. Any the wiser? Pleasant face climbing up the downhill side of the lone chunk of rock in front of Suzerain.</climb>
 
  <climb extra="" grade="21" length="20m" name="Cocksure Propulsion" stars="" id="12" fa="M. Perchard, Mar 1991.">Start 1m L of Suzerain. Climb the crack to a small roof, undercling and bridge past this, then layback the thin crack above. Step L and finish up the arête.</climb>

  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="32m" name="Suzerain" stars="**" id="13" fa="I. Lewis, L. Closs, Feb 1974." number="SU">Sustained and technical, this is the hand crack in the prominent corner towards the RH end of the wall. Jam up to and past the overlap on the L wall. Continue up past a recess (crux) to a large ledge. Up the crack on the L to the top.</climb> 

  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="22m" name="Built Like A Donkey" number="BD" stars="*" id="14" fa="R. Clarke, G. Fisher, Dec 1983.">Don't forget your #4 Camalots. This is the 'classic' fist (10cm) crack that splits the LHS of the blank wall, 4m R of Suzerain. Climb it with style and panache to keep your skin intact.</climb>


  <climb extra="6Þ ↓" grade="24" length="18m" name="Live Fast Die Young" number="" stars="*" id="15" fa="M. Perchard, Mar 1992.">Another technical and sustained number up the steep wall R of Suzerain. Climb a shallow corner 4m L of SBAPT then move R and up to a balancy mantle on the narrow ledge. Continue thinly up the fridge-like feature (crux), moving L to a flat hold at the last bolt. Finish out R.</climb>

 <climb extra="7Þ ↓" grade="22" length="18m" name="Sunk By A Pink Torpedo" number="ST" stars="*" id="16" fa="O. Prall, Feb 1992.">Starts and finishes 1m L of Fat Snatcher. Climb the shallow corner/rib to a large sloping ledge. From the L end of this continue to the small ledge above, then up via the face holds to a punchy finish.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="8" length="14m" name="Fat Snatcher" number="" stars="" id="17" fa="Unknown.">Better tighten your girth strap. The squeeze chimney 2m L of the Virus.</climb>

 <climb extra="5Þ ↓" grade="21" length="12m" name="The Virus" number="TV" stars="*" id="18" fa="R. Parkyn, Nov 1991.">Ignore the original trio of bolts if you can, sparing a thought for sport climbers of days gone by as you climb past them. Follow the U-bolts up the wall L of Pretty Septic.</climb>

  <climb extra="" grade="14" length="17m" name="Pretty Septic" number="" stars="" id="19" fa="O. Prall, Nov 1991.">An interesting start. The open book corner that faces down the river, 1m L of Sheeza.</climb>

 <climb extra="" grade="18" length="17m" name="Sheeza" stars="" id="20" fa="M. Perchard, Nov 1991.">A very picturesque route just above Step Tier. Clip the BR from the L then follow the arête all the way to the top. Good pro is found in the cracks on the L.</climb>
<text class="heading3" id="21">Sunny Side</text><climb extra="" grade="16" length="18m" name="A Chill Wind" number="" stars="" id="22" fa="S. Cameron, P. Robinson, A. Beech, Jan 2010.">Climb the short crack on the northern side of the buttress past a bush to a ledge. Arrange protection high in the corner, but take the face over the diagonal ledge on the L for nicer climbing to the top.</climb>
  <climb extra="4Þ ↓" grade="20" length="18m" name="Dag On A Crag" number="" stars="*" id="23" fa="M. Perchard, Apr 1992.">Known to have dished out some humiliation in recent times, the grade of this route could be suspect. You need brackets with large heads, be warned. On LH side of gully at same height as Ano's Sojourn are a series of broken outcrops. This route ascends highest one, just R of an orange wall. Power up initial section past 2 BRs and move L for a cam placement. Move back R, up ladder, L over bulge and R again, to finish up arête.</climb><climb extra="" grade="16" length="18m" name="Donkey Aversion" number="" stars="" id="24" fa="P. Robinson, A. Beech, S. Cameron, Jan 2010.">Start at the thin crack line immediately L of Dag on a Crag. Pleasant climbing just R of the arête.</climb>
  <text class="heading2" id="25">Lower Teardrop Gully
  </text>
  <text class="text" id="26">This section offers quality short routes on steep buttresses. 
  </text>
  <text class="text" id="27">Access to the LH side of the gully is by scrambling 50 metres up scrubby corners and ledges from the bottom. 
  </text>
  <text class="text" id="28">Descent: Abseil off taped bollards to descend these routes. Abseil is not difficult to organise and definitely preferable to the downclimb. 
  </text>
  <text class="text" id="29">For access to the RH side, see the description below of the Wootang ledge area.   </text>
  <text class="text" id="30">The climbs are described from L to R going up the LH side of the gully and back down the RH side.
  </text>
  <text class="text" id="31">Descent from all these climbs except the bolted routes is by tape abseil.
  </text><image src="LowerTeardropGullyPrint.jpg" width="700" id="32">null</image><text class="heading3" id="33">Farewell To Arms Buttress (LH Side)</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="32m" name="Out Of The Frying Pan" number="" stars="" id="34" fa="S. Brennan, K. Bischoff, Apr 1981.">The chimney to the L of Into the Fire. Scramble 60m up to the first buttress on the L side of Teardrop Gully. Climb the tight chimney.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="21" length="30m" name="Farewell To Arms" number="FA" stars="***" id="35" fa="D. Stephenson, N. Deka, Feb 1989.">The obvious crack system on the south face of the first buttress, clearly visible from the track. Start at the base of the buttress, between Out Of The Frying Pan and Into The Fire. Climb the sustained, flared cracks up the face to belay on a ledge just below the top of the buttress. Tape abseil to descend.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="22" length="30m" name="Into The Fire" stars="**" id="36" fa="S. Parsons, K. Bischoff, Apr 1981." number="IF">A sustained route following the prominent corners on the north side of the first buttress, clearly visible from the Organ Pipes Track.
1. 7m. Climb the crack just R of the arête to a small ledge.
2. 23m. Climb with difficulty into a shallow scoop using insecure small wires for protection (a peg was used here originally). Continue through a bulge using layaway holds to one more queasy experience, a sloping jug. Continue up to belay at a ledge.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="15" length="26m" name="Farouche" stars="" id="37" fa="K. Bischoff, S. Parsons, Apr 1981.">The crack R of Into The Fire. Follow the chimney to start with, and the corner at the top.</climb><text class="heading3" id="38">Thought Insertion Buttress (LH Side)</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="19" length="27m" name="Thought Insertion" stars="*" id="39" fa="P. Bigg, S. Parsons, D. Fife, Jan 1982." number="TI">The enjoyable crack on the south face of the second buttress up the gully. The start can be done two ways. The crack on the L is probably the original start and is at least 20, despite the easier line existing closer to the R arête. The RH line has a very suspect flake on it at the roof though – beware. Finish up the crack line.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="15" length="25m" name="Morons In Motion" number="" stars="" id="40" fa="I. Montoya, 1988.">It is not yet  clear where this is! The original description says to climb the obvious crack around the arête R of Thought Insertion.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="20m" name="All Those Madmen" stars="*" id="41" fa="S. Parsons, P. Bigg, D. Fife, Jan 1982.">Worth a look. The crack around the corner to the R of Thought Insertion.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="21" length="20m" name="Second Edition" number="" stars="*" id="42" fa="S. Parsons, M. Briggs, Jan 1982.">A fun route that follows the finger crack 2m R of All Those Madmen. Climb the crack, trending R at half height and through the bulge where the crack straightens (crux).</climb><text class="heading3" id="43">Wootang Ledge (RH Side)</text>
  <text class="text" id="44">The next five routes start from a wide vegetated ledge 50m up the RH side of Teardrop Gully and are described R to L.
Access either by (1): scrambling up the RH side of the gully (easy but worth roping up for), (2): by abseiling off the back of Step Tier (35m; using the rap chain at the top of Step Tier), or (3) by coming in from the top (rap in to Upper Teardrop Gully; walk down past all the routes there, then to the L of the rock pedestal at the top of Step Tier as though going down to the Step Tier abseil chains; but a couple of metres down, around on the back of the pedastal (facing down Teardrop Gully) is a rap station (2 U-bolts); a 50m abseil from here will reach the ledge at the base of Wootang; a 25m abseil will reach the top of Cornered).
Descent: Each route has a rap station to get back to the ledge, and a 50m abseil from bolts on the ledge gets you back down to the ground. </text>
  <climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="26" length="24m" name="The Colour of Magic" number="" stars="***" id="45" fa="A. Williams, Nov 2002.">The slightly overhanging arête above the extreme R of the ledge. Climb the initial layaway crack (0.5-3 Camalot), then undercling out R to the first bolt and continue up the arête to DBB.</climb>


<climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="27" length="25m" name="Shaolin" number="" stars="**" id="46" fa="A. Williams, Jan 2007.">The line of bolts to the L of The Colour of Magic. Scramble up the large corner then step R to gain the second bolt. Climb the shallow corner then move R into the thin layaway seam, following this until easier ground leads to the DBB of TCOM.</climb>
<climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="25" length="45m" name="Wootang" number="" stars="***" id="47" fa="A. Williams, Oct 2002.">A dedication to Lois Scarr. Start on the RH side of the wide face above the ledge. Layaways on the face for the first 10m (crux) lead to a small ledge, continue up the face above to a bolted belay on the ledge at 45m. No natural gear required.</climb>
  <climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="23" length="20m" name="Cornered" number="CO" stars="*" id="48" fa="A. Williams, early 2005.">Start approximately 5m L of Wootang. Climb the thin crack line just R of the arête, protected by small to mid-sized cams (some people think these small cams are quite dodgy), then continue up the shallow corner above past 3 FH to a DBB at the ledge.</climb>
<climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="25" length="45m" name="Five-Nil " number="" stars="**" id="49" fa="D. McConnell, Jan 2007.">No natural gear required. Access from the top of the mountain is probably easiest.
1. 20m 25. Start 5m up the gully L of Cornered and Wootang, with belay bolts on L. Climb the face and arête to a ledge and DBB (as for Cornered).
2. 25m 19. Step R from the belay and ascend the blocky corner/arête system past many FH and the final U-bolt of Wootang. Either belay at the Wootang DBB and descend by abseil from here, or continue past another FH to the ledge above with the top DBB.</climb>
  

</guide>