<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<guide><text class="heading1" new="false"
number="null.">The Star Factory</text><text class="text"
new="false" number="null.">Guide by Jake Bresnehan.</text><text
class="text" new="false"
number="null.">The Star Factory first discovered by one of the Jackson's back in the dark ages and climbed a grade 15 trad route down the left hand side. Nick Hancock re-discovered it in early 2003. He tried to keep it a secret but the moto-mouth Jake Bresnehan got hold of the rumor and passed it on to Garry Phillips and he then marched up there with more bolts and glue then Dani Andrada. He quickly set to work at making the best sport crag in Tassie and one of the best in the OZ! The rock is Gold, at around 30 metres in height and offers some of the best routes around. Enjoy!</text><text
class="heading3" new="false" number="null.">Access</text><text
class="text" new="false"
number="null.">From Coles Bay drive to the Sleepy Bay car park which is on the Cape Tourville Rd. Head down the walking track to sleepy bay beach. Continue along trying to pick up some rock cairns. Ascend the track for some time till you can see the wall. Continue for another 50 metres untill you reach a distinct notch. From the notch head down the gully via a rough track. When you get to the top of the cliff head down and left (looking out to sea) and scramble down past some fixed ropes. Then head to the Antimatter area for a good coffee and a nice warm up. Hopefully the wind has picked up and your draws are on your project, you climb till the moon comes up and you get the full Star Factory experience.</text><image
new="false" number="null." src="Star Factory.jpg"
width="">null</image><image new="false" number="null."
src="Walk In.jpg" width="">null</image><text class="heading3"
new="false" number="null.">Other Stuff</text><text class="text"
new="false"
number="null.">Winter days are the best, climbing in the sun with a nice southerly wind. You can climb in the summer but is best after about 2pm.
The projects are all closed, but feel free to put in the blood sweet and tears to put your own up. Be careful on the slabs at the base of the routes. If you stuff up you probably won't wake up again. In the wet they are even worse!
</text><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">The Routes</text><image new="false"
number="null." src="Chris the PK.jpg"
width="">null</image><climb extra="" grade="17"
name="The Girlfriend Route" new="false" number="1. "
stars="">Climbs to the ledge where Chris the Porn King starts. FA Al Williams 2004</climb><climb
extra="" grade="24" length="15m" name="Chris the Porn King"
new="false" number="2. "
stars="">Climb the girl friend route till the ledge. Double bolt belay. Climb the top pitch up via some cool moves on not the best quality rock. Not a bad little route. Easy if you are tall. FA Garry Philips 2003</climb><climb
extra="" grade="23" length="15m" name="Naturally Blond"
new="false" number="3. "
stars="">Follow the crack left of Chris The Porn King to the roof. Head right to pass the roof and follow the thin layback to the Double bolt belay. FA Al Williams 2004</climb><image
new="false" number="null." src="The Reason.jpg"
width="">null</image><climb extra="" grade="26" length="20m"
name="The Reason" new="false" number="4. "
stars="***">Climb a grade 15 crack for 8 meters to gain the big ledge. A wicked stricking corner. Classic. Maybe the best 26 at the factory. FA Doug McConnell 2003</climb><image
new="false" number="null." src="AntiMatter.jpg"
width="">null</image><climb extra="" grade="25" length="25m"
name="Pot Bellied Whale" new="false" number="5."
stars="">Layback the pillar. Up the arête. Not that good. FA Nick Hancock 2003</climb><climb
extra="" grade="28" length="20m" name="Street Fighter"
new="false" number="6. "
stars="**">Grovely up the chimney till you can get out onto the left face. Power out on the underclings and then up. A bit of a power endurance classic. FA Garry Phillips 2003</climb><climb
extra="" grade="28/29" length="20m" name="Soft Option"
new="false" number="7. "
stars="*">Same start as Street fighter. Head right at the top of the chimney. FA Garry Phillips 2004</climb><climb
extra="" grade="?" name="Street Fighter 3" new="false"
number="8. "
stars="">Project. Direct Start into Street fighter.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="29" length="20m" name="Street Fighter 2"
new="false" number="9. "
stars="">Climb the first 3 bolts of Antimatter then break right and up to join street fighter. A bit sharp. FA Jake Bresnehan 2004</climb><climb
extra="" grade="23" length="25m" name="Antimatter" new="false"
number="10. "
stars="***">A classic of the grade. Climb up flakes/jugs till about two meters from the roof. A tricky section leads into the roof. The suck up some air and crank around on big side pulls and glassy feet. Super warm up. FA. Doug McConnell. 2003</climb><climb
extra="" grade="28" length="28m" name="Power Of The Percolator"
new="false" number="11. "
stars="***">This could be the best 28 in Tassie. A must do!!! FA. Garry Phillips 2003</climb><climb
extra="" grade="27" name="Decafe" new="false" number="12. "
stars="">Climb Power Of The Percolator till you reach the roof with a fixed hanger at about half hight. Climb right and finish up Antimatter. FA. Garry Phillips 2006</climb><climb
extra="" grade="30" name="Grand Slam" new="false" number="13. "
stars="">Start as for Power of the Percolator but head left. Lowers of the 2nd last bolt. Need to be extended. FA Garry Phillips 2003</climb><image
new="false" number="null." src="Balance of evil.jpg"
width="">null</image><climb extra="" grade="?"
name="Kim's Project" new="false" number="14. "
stars="">Up the slab. Kim just has to get out of his office and climb it. Looks classic.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="24" length="20m" name="Promise Land" new="false"
number="15. "
stars="">Climb Balance of evil and break right across to join kim's project. A bit cheeky but a good route. FA Garry Phillips 2006</climb><climb
extra="" grade="25" length="25m" name="Balance of Evil"
new="false" number="16. "
stars="">A bit tricky down low. Up the right facing corner to the top. FA Norm Selby 2003</climb><image
new="false" number="null." src="Wizard.jpg"
width="">null</image><climb extra="" grade="27" length="25m"
name="The Grand Adjudicator" new="false" number="17. "
stars="">10 meters right of the fixed walking rope. Up the amazing crack past 6 ugly pitons. Finishing up a nice looking hanging corner. Take wires and friends up to #3. Not sure why he just didn't bolt it. FA Nick Hancock 2004</climb><climb
extra="" grade="?" name="Garry's Amazing Project" new="false"
number="18. " stars="">Name Says it all...</climb><climb
extra="" grade="?" name="Wizard Of The World Project"
new="false" number="19. " stars="">Closed!</climb><climb
extra="" grade="27" length="27m" name="Wizard Of Oz" new="false"
number="20. "
stars="***">Climb Up the start of the arch. Break left to gain small corner system. Crazy shouldery stemming. To reach the jug out left. Traverse right on edges to a good rest then to the belay past some funkey moves. One hell of a good route. FA Jake Bresnehan 2006</climb><climb
extra="" grade="27" length="25m" name="Ferret On A Leash"
new="false" number="21. "
stars="">Up a nice looking corner to a big ledge. Then up thin groove. FA Nick Hancock 2003</climb><climb
extra="" grade="?" name="Garry's amazing project" new="false"
number="22. " stars="">Name Says it all...</climb><image
new="false" number="null." src="The Tooth Fairy.jpg"
width="">null</image><climb extra="" grade="32" length="25m"
name="The Tooth Fairy" new="false" number="23. "
stars="">Start at the end of the fixed walking rope. Climb up past 3 tricky boulder problems. A bit sharp but a good one. FA Kim Robinson 2004</climb><climb
extra="" grade="31" length="25m" name="Fairy Floss" new="false"
number="24. "
stars="">Climb the Tooth Fairy till the big hanging flake at half hight and then break out left past a bit of a kung fu pinch move. Also has some big bitting crystals. FA Garry Phillips 2006</climb><climb
extra="" grade="?" name="Buissness Man Project" new="false"
number="25. " stars="">One sick project, closed.</climb><image
new="false" number="null." src="Come Get Me.jpg"
width="">null</image><climb extra="" grade="29" length="25m"
name="Entree" new="false" number="26. "
stars="***">Head up easy ground to half height. Head right and up past a rad punch to the biggest under cling in Tassie. Squirm up the groove to reach the belay. Super classic. FA Garry Phillips 2004</climb><climb
extra="" grade="30" length="25m" name="Come Get Me" new="false"
number="27. "
stars="">Same start as Entrée but go direct. Past a nice boulder (skip dogging bolts on redpoint). To some jugs. Then go and get it. A very nice and sharp hold. Head out left to reach the chains. Come Get ME! FA Garry Phillips 2005</climb><climb
extra="" grade="26" name="The Supposed Golden Path" new="false"
number="28. "
stars="">The far right of the wall. 8 bolts up a nice yellow arête. With a steep finish. FA Nick Hancock 2003</climb><image
new="false" number="null." src="Star wars.jpg"
width="">null</image><climb extra="" grade="27" name="Star Wars"
new="false" number="29. " stars=""/><image new="false"
number="null." src="Astro Boy.jpg" width="">null</image><climb
extra="" grade="?" name="Doug's Project" new="false"
number="30. " stars=""/><climb extra="" grade="30"
name="Astro Boy" new="false" number="31. "
stars="">FA Al Williams</climb><image new="false" number="null."
src="Redline.jpg" width="">null</image><climb extra=""
grade="28" name="Simply The Best" new="false" number="32. "
stars=""/><climb extra="" grade="?" name="Madness Project"
new="false" number="33. " stars=""/><climb extra="" grade="?"
name="Redline Project" new="false" number="34. "
stars=""/><image new="false" number="null."
src="Turbo Hammer.jpg" width="">null</image><climb extra=""
grade="25" name="Turbo Hammer" new="false" number="35. "
stars="***"/><climb extra="" grade="" name="Al's Route"
new="false" number="36." stars=""/>
</guide>
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