<guide version="2">
  <header access="Teardrop Gully comprises two sections, the gully above Step Tier (Upper Teardrop Gully) and the gully below Step Tier (Lower Teardrop Gully). Currently the best way to access climbs in Upper Teardrop Gully is from the summit carpark. From the Lookout Shelter head down and across the screes (see topo in the guide Introduction) heading in the general direction of the northern tip of Bruny Island. After several hundred metres look for the rusty pipe and cairn that mark the top of the gully (GPS MTW180). Access to Lower Teardrop Gully is from the bottom." acknowledgement="" history="" intro="Teardrop Gully has some good cragging in the shade. The first bolted routes on the Pipes were done here in the early nineties, and the area has continued to produce some good sport and mixed routes." name="Teardrop Gully" rock="Single pitch dolerite buttresses, quite a few sport routes" sun="Not much sun" walk="15 min down from the summit" id="1"/>
  


  <text class="heading2" id="2">Upper Teardrop Gully
  </text>
  <text class="text" id="3">This section is described from top to bottom. Older bolt routes use carrot bolts with large heads and will only take the older RP brackets or sliding wires.
  </text>
  <text class="heading3" id="4">Dark side</text>
  <text class="text" id="5">This area was described in old guides as Teardrop Wall. Many routes can be accessed from above  (tape abseils), avoiding the short but tricky down climb into the gully, the scene of a serious accident in 2003.</text>
  <text class="text" id="6">Descent: There are rap stations above Sunk by a Pink Torpedo, Turkey Slap, Dag on a Crag and another off Ceci N'est Pas une Pipe.
  </text><image src="teardropGullyPrint.jpg" width="800" id="7">null</image>
 
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="10m" name="Ano's Sojourn" number="AS" stars="**" id="8" fa="M. Collie, D. Fife, Apr 1981.">An entertaining workout to test your jamming skills. A distinct hand crack on the LHS of the gully(looking down) 20m below the top. Jam the straight crack through the overlap to the top. </climb>

<climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="24" length="12m" name="Turkey Slap  " number="TS" stars="*" id="9" fa="D. McConnell, M. McMinn, A. Drenen Jan 2007.">The bolted arête on right side of main gully roughly midway between Sweepings and Ano's Sojourn. Climb via 4 bolts past a low crux to a DBB. </climb>

  <climb extra="" grade="13" length="20m" name="Sweepings" stars="" id="10" fa="S. Scott, M. Stone, Mar 1981.">Start 3m to the L and above Suzerain, on a small platform behind Ceci N'est Pas Une Pipe. Up the crack in the wall which becomes a shallow corner, exiting R to finish. </climb>

  <climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="19" length="10m" name="Ceci N'est Pas une Pipe" number="CN" stars="*" id="11" fa="R. Parkyn, Nov 1991.">Pronounced 'sersi nay parz une peep'. Any the wiser? Pleasant face climbing is protected by 3 BR's. Start on the downhill side of the lone chunk of rock in front of Suzerain. Rap off. </climb>
 
  <climb extra="" grade="21" length="20m" name="Cocksure Propulsion" stars="" id="12" fa="M. Perchard, Mar 1991.">Start 1m L of Suzerain and climb the crack to a small roof. Undercling and bridge past this, then layback the thin crack above. Step L and up the arête to finish. </climb>

  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="32m" name="Suzerain" stars="*" id="13" fa="I. Lewis, L. Closs, Feb 1974." number="SU">The hand crack in the prominent corner situated towards the L side of the wall. Jam up and past the overlap on the L wall. Continue up past a recess (crux) to a large ledge. Up the crack on the L to the top. </climb> 

  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="22m" name="Built Like A Donkey" number="BD" stars="*" id="14" fa="R. Clarke, G. Fisher, Dec 1983.">Don't forget your #4 Camelots. This is the 'classic' fist (10cm) crack that splits the LHS of the blank wall, 4m R of Suzerain. Try to climb it with style and panache to keep your skin intact. </climb>


  <climb extra="Þ" grade="24" length="18m" name="Live Fast Die Young" number="" stars="*" id="15" fa="M. Perchard, Mar 1992.">Another steep, technical and sustained number up the blank wall L of Sunk by a Pink Torpedo. Climb a shallow corner 4m L of SBAPT to a wire placement. Move R and up to the ledge and the first of 3 BR. Continue up thinly to a mid-sized friend in the crack on the L, before moving R to finish. </climb>

 <climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="22" length="16m" name="Sunk By A Pink Torpedo" number="ST" stars="*" id="16" fa="O. Prall, Feb 1992.">Starts and finishes 1m L of Fat Snatcher. Climb the shallow corner / rib to a large sloping ledge. From the L end continue to the small ledge above then up via the face holds. 5 BR's and rap chain. </climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="8" length="14m" name="Fat Snatcher" number="" stars="" id="17" fa="Unknown.">Better tighten your girth strap. The squeeze chimney 2m L of the Virus. 
  </climb>

 <climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="21" length="12m" name="The Virus" number="TV" stars="*" id="18" fa="R. Parkyn, Nov 1991.">Ignore the original trio of bolts if you can. Follow 5 recently added U-bolts up the L hand wall of Pretty Septic. Lower Off. </climb>

  <climb extra="" grade="14" length="17m" name="Pretty Septic" number="" stars="" id="19" fa="O. Prall, Nov 1991.">An interesting start. The open book corner that faces down the river, 1m L of Sheeza. </climb>

 <climb extra="" grade="18" length="17m" name="Sheeza" stars="" id="20" fa="M. Perchard, Nov 1991.">A very picturesque route just above Step Tier. Clip the BR from the L then follow the arête all the way to the top. Good pro is found in the cracks on the L. </climb>
<text class="heading3" id="21">Sunny Side</text><climb extra="" grade="16" length="18m" name="A Chill Wind" number="" stars="" id="22" fa="Steve Cameron, Phil Robinson, Alan Beech Jan 2010.">Climb the short crack on the N side of the buttress past a bush to a ledge. Arrange protection high in the corner but climb the face over the diagonal ledge on the left for nicer climbing to the top. </climb>
  <climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="20" length="18m" name="Dag On A Crag" number="" stars="*" id="23" fa="M. Perchard, Apr 1992.">Known to have dished out some humiliation in recent times, the grade of this route could be suspect. You need brackets with large heads, be warned. On LH side of gully at same height as Ano's Sojourn are a series of broken outcrops. This route ascends highest one, just R of an orange wall. It has 4 BR. Power up initial section past 2 BR's and move L for a friend. Move back R, up ladder, L over bulge and R again, to finish up arête. </climb><climb extra="" grade="16" length="18m" name="Donkey Aversion" number="" stars="" id="24" fa="Phil Robinson, Alan Beech, Steve Cameron Jan 2010.">Start at the thin crack line immediately L of ‘Dag on a Crag’. Pleasant climbing just R of the arête. </climb>
  <text class="heading2" id="25">Lower Teardrop Gully
  </text>
  <text class="text" id="26">This section offers quality short routes on steep buttresses. 
  </text>
  <text class="text" id="27">Access to the LH side of the gully is by scrambling 50 metres up scrubby corners and ledges from the bottom. 
  </text>
  <text class="text" id="28">Descent: Abseil off taped bollards to descend these routes. Abseil is not difficult to organise and definitely preferable to the downclimb. 
  </text>
  <text class="text" id="29">For access to the RH side, see the description below of the Wootang ledge area.   </text>
  <text class="text" id="30">The climbs are described from L to R going up the LH side of the gully and back down the RH side.
  </text>
  <text class="text" id="31">Descent from all these climbs except the bolted routes is by tape abseil.
  </text><image src="LowerTeardropGullyPrint.jpg" width="700" id="32">null</image><text class="heading3" id="33">Farewell To Arms Buttress (LH Side)</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="32m" name="Out Of The Frying Pan" number="" stars="" id="34" fa="S. Brennan, K. Bischoff, Apr 1981.">The chimney to the L of Into the Fire. Scramble 60m up to the first buttress on the L side of Teardrop Gully. Climb the tight chimney. </climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="21" length="30m" name="Farewell To Arms" number="FA" stars="***" id="35" fa="D. Stephenson, N. Deka, Feb 1989.">The obvious crack system on the south face of the first buttress, clearly visible from the track. Start at the base of the buttress, between Out Of The Frying Pan and Into The Fire. Climb the sustained flared cracks up the face to belay on a ledge just below the top of the buttress. Tape abseil off. </climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="22" length="30m" name="Into The Fire" stars="**" id="36" fa="S. Parsons, K. Bischoff, Apr 1981." number="IF">A sustained route following the prominent corners on the north side of the first buttress, clearly visible from the Panorama Track. (1) 7m. Climb the crack just R of the arête to a small ledge. (2) 23m. Climb with difficulty into a shallow scoop using a peg or, less securely, small wires for protection. Continue through a bulge using lay away holds to one more queasy experience, a sloping jug. Continue up to belay at a ledge. </climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="15" length="26m" name="Farouche" stars="" id="37" fa="K. Bischoff, S. Parsons, Apr 1981.">The crack R of Into The Fire. Follow the chimney to start and the corner at the top. </climb><text class="heading3" id="38">Thought Insertion Buttress (LH Side)</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="19" length="27m" name="Thought Insertion" stars="*" id="39" fa="P. Bigg, S. Parsons, D. Fife, Jan 1982." number="TI">The enjoyable crack on the south face of the second buttress up the gully. The start can be done two ways. The crack on the L is probably the original start and is at least 20 despite the easier line existing closer to the R arête. The R hand line has a very suspect flake on it at the roof. Beware. Finish up the crack line. </climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="15" length="25m" name="Morons In Motion" number="" stars="" id="40" fa="I. Montoya, 1988.">It is not yet  clear where this is! The original description says to climb the obvious crack around the arête R of Thought Insertion. </climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="20m" name="All Those Madmen" stars="**" id="41" fa="S. Parsons, P. Bigg, D. Fife, Jan 1982.">Worth a look. The crack around the corner to the R of Thought Insertion. Climb the crack. </climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="21" length="20m" name="Second Edition" number="" stars="*" id="42" fa="S. Parsons, M. Briggs, Jan 1982.">A fun route that follows the finger crack two metres R of All Those Madmen. Climb the crack, trending R at half height and through the bulge where the crack straightens (crux). </climb><text class="heading3" id="43">Wootang Ledge (RH Side)</text>
  <text class="text" id="44">The next five routes start from a wide vegetated ledge 50m up the RH side of Teardrop Gully. Access either by scrambling up the RH side of the gully (easy but worth roping up) or by abseiling off the back of Step Tier (use the chain at the top of Lone Stranger but go off L, not R! Approx 35m), or probably easiest, from the top via Teardrop Wall. Walk down Teardrop Gully to the rock  pedestal at the top of Step Tier (close to the Virus on the L). Walk left of a rock pedestal as though going down to the Step Tier abseil chains but a couple of metres down round  on the R (facing down Teardrop Gully) 2 U-bolts are visible. 50m abseil will reach the ledge at the base of Wootang,  25m approx to the to top of Cornered.
Descent: A 50m abseil from the bolts on the ledge gets you back down to the ground. 
These routes are described right to left.</text>
  <climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="26" length="24m" name="The Colour of Magic" number="" stars="***" id="45" fa="A. Williams, Nov 2002.">The slightly overhanging arête above the extreme R of the ledge. Climb the initial layaway crack (0.5-3 camalot) then undercling out R to the first bolt, continue up the arête to DBB. </climb>


<climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="27" length="25m" name="Shaolin" number="" stars="**" id="46" fa="A. Williams Jan 2007.">The line of U Bolts left of The Colour of Magic. Scramble up the large corner then step right to gain the second bolt, climb the shallow corner then right into the thin layaway seam, follow this until easier ground leads to the DBB of TCOM. </climb>
<climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="25" length="45m" name="Wootang" number="" stars="***" id="47" fa="A. Williams, Oct 2002.">A dedication to Lois Scarr. Starts on the RH side of the wide face above the ledge. Layaways on the face for the first 10m (crux) lead to a small ledge, continue up the face above to a bolted belay on the ledge at 45m. No natural gear required. </climb>
  <climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="23" length="20m" name="Cornered" number="CO" stars="*" id="48" fa="A. Williams, early 2005.">Start approximately 5m L of Wootang. Climb the thin crack line just R of the arête, protected by small to mid-sized cams (some people think these small cams are quite dodgy), then the shallow corner above past 3 fixed hangers to a DBB at the ledge. </climb>
<climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="25" length="45m" name="Five-Nil " number="" stars="**" id="49" fa="Doug McConnell Jan 2007.">No natural gear required. Access from the top of the mountain is probably easiest. (1) 20m 25. Start 5m up the gully left of Cornered and Wootang with belay bolts on left. Climb the face and arête  past fixed hangers to a ledge and DBB (as for Cornered). (2) 25m 19. Step right from the belay and ascend the blocky corner/arête  system past fixed hangers and the final U bolt of Wootang. Either belay at the Wootang DBB or continue past another fixed hanger to the ledge above  to the top DBB. Walk off or abseil back to ledge at base of Wootang. </climb>
  

</guide>