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<guide><text class="heading1"
new="false">Other Southern Crags</text><text class="text"
new="false">This section contains information about other crags in the South and West of Tasmania for which we do not have full guides for.</text><text
class="heading2" new="false">Apsley Edge</text><text
class="text"
new="false">Apsley Edge is a sandstone crag on private land out towards Bothwell. There was a guide written up for it back in the day. If access details are ever sorted out, we may put it online here.</text><text
class="heading2" new="false">Broadmarsh</text><text class="text"
new="false">There is a very small dolerite crag called Fool's Paradise across the river at Broadmarsh - you can see it from the road. Pretty damn worthless, but there were about 10 routes done here in the seventies.</text><text
class="heading2" new="false">Chauncy Vale</text><text
class="text"
new="false">Chauncy Vale (otherwise known as Chossy Vale) is a sandstone valley near Bagdad, about 30 minutes north of Hobart. The road to the start of the walk is sign posted from the main road in Bagdad. Climbing is currently banned, however a couple of bolted routes were put up in the late 90s. To find them, head up walking track that goes up the hill, after about 10 minutes it passes under the first buttress. There is a big roof crack at about 22, then a nice route with about 5 bolts at grade 20. Further right is a good bolted arete. More cliffs were explored and cleaned, but the vast majority of cliffs in the valley are total choss.
On the other side of the highway is Green Valley. There are some sandstone cliffs up there that could have potential, but I don't know if they've been climbed on. They are on private land.</text><text
class="heading2" new="false">Derbyshire Rocks</text><text
class="text"
new="false">Derbyshire Rocks is the outrageous choss by the side of the road between New Norfolk and Boyer, on the eastern side of the river. For some unknown reason Phil Robinson "endured" 2 routes there in 1976, documented in CCT circular no 100. Apparently though the smaller outcrop by the side of the river (on the other side) has some deep water soloing.</text><text
class="heading2" new="false">Elderslie</text><text class="text"
new="false">There is an old bolted route in the Gully at Elderslie on the first decent cliff on the left side of the gully (see the bouldering guide, up behind Crystal Boulder). There is probably potential here for more routes on decent sandstone.</text><text
class="heading2" new="false">Kingston - Alum Cliffs</text><text
class="text"
new="false">Some routes have been done on the mudstone cliffs north of Kingston Beach. No details are known.</text><text
class="heading2" new="false">Glendevie</text><text class="text"
new="false">This sandstone crag has been given a cursory look over by passing climbers over the years but only one climb has been recorded to date. From Glendevie, south of Geeveston on the Huon Highway , continue towards Dover for about a kilometre and the crag with a number of detached boulders is visible on the R as the road starts to climb up the hill (GR 991 113, Tasmap 1:25000, Waterloo).</text><climb
extra="" grade="14" length="30m" name="Gypsy Folk" new="false"
number=""
stars="">The route traverses under the huge roof at the RH end of the crags. Disappointingly easy. Start at the obvious crack which runs up to the roof. A hard chimney move, then traverse R to large ledge. D. Bowman, M. Steane, 26 Nov. 1976.</climb><text
class="heading2" new="false">Goats Bluff</text><text
class="text"
new="false">Goats Bluff is a sedementary headland passed on the way to South Arm, at the end of Calverts Beach. Park at the Storm Bay carpark lookout.</text><climb
extra="" grade="13" length="" name="Too Loose for Lizards"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Rap into the zawn. The climb is the obvious line with 3 bolts and 2 pegs. Clip the bolts with wires (?). Up left to friend placement then down and up to top. D. Humphries, B. Sellers, April 1986.</climb><text
class="heading2" new="false">Longley Edge</text><text
class="text"
new="false">These couple of routes were done at Longley Edge in the seventies and are here for historical interest. These days there are houses right up to the cliff which makes things a little awkward.</text><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="22m" name="Osiba" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Starts about 15m left of Moongoose at a small crack line on the wall going up to a large tree near the top.
1. 15m Go up to a small overhand and move round this on its left and go up the crack until a move leftwards enables the tree to be reached.
2. 7m Continue up the line on horrifying rock to a belay at the top. B. Bull, I. Lewis, Oct 1972.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="30m" name="Mongoose" new="false"
number=""
stars="">A spectacular pitch. Head across the paddocks to the cliff. At the left end is an eroded cave. 15m to the R is a leftwards slanting crack with three overhangs.
1. 20m (crux). Climb the crack. The crux is a layback move round the central overhang, although the final section may grip some. A large runner needed before the final roof which is laybacked on good undercuts with small footholds to a delicately rotten exit. From the sandy cave move right up the rib for 5m to a bushy ledge and poor belay.
2. 10m Up on rounded holds to finish. P. Jackson, R. McMahon, Oct 1970.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="35m" name="Ratsack" new="false"
number=""
stars="">The corner right of Moongoose.
1. 20m Up the corner to the small overhang. Step R (crux) and mantelshelf. Continue slightly left on poor rock to a poorer finish onto the ledge.
2. 15m Traverse the slab to the left and make an awkward move up into a narrow chimney. Continue up the corner (crux) to an easier finish. R. McMahon, P. Jackson, J. Moore, Oct 1970.</climb><text
class="heading2" new="false">Mt Hobbs</text><text class="text"
new="false">Mt Hobbs is a dolerite peak near Woodsdale, out the back of Buckland. Some obscure routes were done on it in the 70s.</text><text
class="heading2" new="false">Nicholls Rivulet</text><text
class="text"
new="false">There is a small sandstone crag about 8km along the Nicholls Rivulet Rd (C626), on the left as you are going south. It was toproped in the 80s. Its on private land.</text><text
class="heading2" new="false">Pelverata Falls</text><text
class="text"
new="false">There are some small dolerite cliffs along the escarpment that forms Pelverata Falls. Some of these have been toproped and led. There is a very nice bridging corner, about grade 23. With a decent 4WD (or mountain bike) you can drive right to the top of the cliffs via the Snug Tiers. Otherwise you can walk to the bottom via the walking track that starts near the township of Pelverata. Either way, this cliff is of dubious value.</text><text
class="heading2" new="false">Richmond</text><text class="text"
new="false">There are two cliffs at Richmond, in the same general area. Drive right down Henry street and you can see the obvious Barwick's Rocks. Spice Cliffs are further around the hill (apparently). The rock is loose sandstone, and its on private land.</text><text
class="heading2" new="false">Roadside Rock</text><text
class="text"
new="false">This is a small mudstone edge up past Melton Mowbray where a few routes were done (on toprope?). Follow Lake Rd until RH turn to Lower Marshes Rd. Follow this past Apsley Edge until a roadside cliff line appears on your right.</text><text
class="heading2" new="false">Shag Bay</text><text class="text"
new="false">Shag Bay is a pile of choss, but apparently "was climbed out by Phil Steane in early eighties". No further details are available.</text><text
class="heading2" new="false">Sorell Creek Crags</text><text
class="text"
new="false">There are three different small dolerite cliffs at Sorell Creek which were developed in the 1970s. They are in the gorge that the road which heads south from the Sorell Creek township goes through. They currently languish in obscurity, and will probably stay that way. But if someone is super keen, there are descriptions in the CCT circulars in the State Library.</text><text
class="heading2" new="false">The Rookeries</text><text
class="text" new="false">The Rookeries is an old dolerite crag on South Arm with access problems. There are some good moderate climbs there. If the access ever gets sorted out we might write it up.</text></guide>
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