<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<guide>
  <header
        access="Teardrop Gully comprises two sections, the gully above Step Tier and the gully below Step Tier. Currently the best way to access climbs in the gully is from the top. From the Lookout Shelter head down and across the screes heading in the general direction of the northern tip of Bruny Island. After several hundred metres look for the rusty pipe and cairn that mark the top of the gully (GPS MTW180)."
        acknowledgement="" history=""
        intro="Teardrop Gully has some good cragging in the shade. The first bolted routes on the Pipes were done here in the early nineties, and the area has continued to produce some good sport and mixed routes."
        name="Teardrop Gully" new="false"
        rock="Single pitch dolerite buttresses, quite a few sport routes"
        sun="Not much sun"
        walk="15 min down from the summit"/>
  


  <text
        class="heading2">Upper Teardrop Gully
  </text>
  <text
        class="text">This section is described from top to bottom. Older bolt routes use carrot bolts with large heads and will only take the older RP brackets or sliding wires.
  </text>
  <text
        class="heading3" new="false"
        number="null.">Dark side</text>
  <text class="text" new="false"
        number="null.">This area was described in old guides as Teardrop Wall. Many routes can be accessed from above  (tape abseils), avoiding the difficult down climb into the gully, the scene of a serious accident in 2003.</text>
  <text
        class="text" new="false"
        number="null.">Descent: There are rap stations above Sunk by a Pink Torpedo, Turkey Slap, Dag on a Crag and another off Ceci N'est Pas une Pipe.
  </text><image
        new="false" number="null." src="teardropGullyPrint.jpg"
        width="800">null</image>
 
  <climb extra="" grade="18"
        length="10m" name="Ano's Sojourn"
        stars="*">Entertainment city. A jamming test piece. A distinct hand crack on the RH side of the main gully 50m above and L of Teardrop Wall. Jam the straight crack past the overlap on the R wall to the top. M. Collie, D. Fife, Apr. 1981.
  </climb>

<climb
        extra="Þ ↓" grade="24" length="12m" name="Turkey Slap  "
        new="false" number=""
        stars="*">The bolted arête on right side of main gully roughly midway between Sweepings and Ano's Sojourn. Climb via 4 bolts past a low crux to a DBB.  D. McConnell, M. McMinn, A. Drenen Jan 2007.
</climb>

  <climb
        extra="" grade="13" length="20m" name="Sweepings"
        stars="">Start 3m to the L and above Suzerain, on a small platform behind Ceci N'est Pas Une Pipe. Up the crack in the wall which becomes a shallow corner, exiting R to finish. S. Scott, M. Stone, Mar. 1981.
  </climb>

  <climb
        extra="Þ ↓" grade="19" length="10m"
        name="Ceci N'est Pas une Pipe" new="false" number=""
        stars="*">Pronounced 'sersi nay parz une peep'. Any the wiser? Pleasant face climbing is protected by 3 BR's. Start on the downhill side of the lone chunk of rock opposite Suzerain. Rap off. R. Parkyn, Nov. 1991.
  </climb>
 
  <climb
        extra="" grade="21" length="20m" name="Cocksure Propulsion"
        stars="">Start 1m L of Suzerain and climb the crack to a small roof. Undercling and bridge past this, then layback the thin crack above. Step L and up the arête to finish. M. Perchard, Mar. 1991. 
  </climb>

  <climb
        extra="" grade="18" length="32m" name="Suzerain"
        stars="*">The hand crack in the prominent corner situated towards the L side of the wall. Jam up and past the overlap on the L wall. Continue up past a recess (crux) to a large ledge. Up the crack on the L to the top. I. Lewis, L. Closs, Feb. 1974.
  </climb> 

  <climb
        extra="" grade="18" length="22m" name="Built Like A Donkey"
        new="false" number=""
        stars="*">The 'classic' crack that splits the L side of the blank wall, 4m R of Suzerain. Don't forget your #4 Camelots and  try to climb the crack with style. R. Clarke, G. Fisher, Dec. 1983.&#xd;
  </climb>


  <climb
        extra="Þ" grade="24" length="18m" name="Live Fast Die Young"
        new="false" number=""
        stars="*">Another steep, technical and sustained number up the blank wall L of Sunk by a Pink Torpedo. Climb a shallow corner 4m L of SBAPT to a wire placement. Move R and up to the ledge and the first of 3 BR. Continue up thinly to a mid-sized friend in the crack on the L, before moving R to finish. M. Perchard, Mar. 1992.
  </climb>

 <climb
        extra="Þ ↓" grade="22" length="16m"
        name="Sunk By A Pink Torpedo" new="false" number=""
        stars="*">Starts and finishes 1m L of Fat Snatcher. Climb the shallow corner / rib to a large sloping ledge. From the L end continue to the small ledge above then up via the face holds. 5 BR's and rap chain. O. Prall, Feb. 1992.</climb>
  <climb
        extra="" grade="8" length="14m" name="Fat Snatcher"
        stars="">The squeeze chimney 2m L of the Virus. Unknown.
  </climb>

 <climb
        extra="Þ ↓" grade="21" length="12m" name="The Virus" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="*">Ignore the original trio of bolts if you can. Follow 5 recently added U-bolts up the L hand wall of Pretty Septic. Lower Off.  R. Parkyn, Nov. 1991.</climb>

  <climb
        extra="" grade="14" length="17m" name="Pretty Septic"
        new="false" number=""
        stars="">An interesting start. The open book corner that faces down the river, 1m L of Sheeza. O. Prall, Nov. 1991.
  </climb>

 <climb
        extra="" grade="18" length="17m" name="Sheeza"
        stars="">A very picturesque route just above Step Tier. Clip the BR from the L then follow the arête all the way to the top. Good pro is found in the cracks on the L. M. Perchard, Nov. 1991. 
  </climb>
<text
        class="heading3">Sunny Side</text>
  <climb extra="Þ ↓"
        grade="20" length="18m" name="Dag On A Crag" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="*">Known to have dished out some humiliation in recent times, the grade of this route could be suspect. You need brackets with large heads, be warned. On LH side of gully at same height as Ano's Sojourn are a series of broken outcrops. This route ascends highest one, just R of an orange wall. It has 4 BR. Power up initial section past 2 BR's and move L for a friend. Move back R, up ladder, L over bulge and R again, to finish up arête. M. Perchard, Apr. 1992.
  </climb>
  <text
        class="heading2">Lower Teardrop Gully
  </text>
  <text
        class="text">This section offers quality short routes on steep buttresses. 
  </text>
  <text
        class="text">Access to the LH side of the gully is by scrambling 50 metres up scrubby corners and ledges from the bottom. 
  </text>
  <text
        class="text">Descent: Abseil off taped bollards to descend these routes. Abseil is not difficult to organise and definitely preferable to the downclimb. 
  </text>
  <text
        class="text" new="false"
        number="null.">For access to the RH side, see the description below of the Wootang ledge area.   </text>
  <text
        class="text">The climbs are described from L to R going up the LH side of the gully and back down the RH side.
  </text>
  <text
        class="text">Descent from all these climbs except the bolted routes is by tape abseil.
  </text><image
        new="false" number="null." src="LowerTeardropGullyPrint.jpg"
        width="700">null</image><text class="heading3" new="false"
        number="null.">Farewell To Arms Buttress (LH Side)</text>
  <climb
        extra="" grade="17" length="32m" name="Out Of The Frying Pan"
        new="false" number=""
        stars="">The chimney to the L of Into the Fire. Scramble 60m up to the first buttress on the L side of Teardrop Gully. Climb the tight chimney. S. Brennan, K. Bischoff, Apr. 1981.
  </climb>
  <climb
        extra="" grade="21" length="30m" name="Farewell To Arms"
        new="false" number=""
        stars="***">The obvious crack system on the south face of the first buttress, clearly visible from the track. Start at the base of the buttress, between Out Of The Frying Pan and Into The Fire. Climb the sustained flared cracks up the face to belay on a ledge just below the top of the buttress. Tape abseil off. D. Stephenson, N. Deka, Feb. 1989.
  </climb>
  <climb
        extra="" grade="22" length="30m" name="Into The Fire"
        stars="**">A sustained route following the prominent corners on the north side of the first buttress, clearly visible from the Panorama Track. (1) 7m. Climb the crack just R of the arête to a small ledge. (2) 23m. Climb with difficulty into a shallow scoop using a peg or, less securely, small wires for protection. Continue through a bulge using lay away holds to one more queasy experience, a sloping jug. Continue up to belay at a ledge. S. Parsons, K. Bischoff, Apr. 1981.
  </climb>
  <climb
        extra="" grade="15" length="26m" name="Farouche"
        stars="">The crack R of Into The Fire. Follow the chimney to start and the corner at the top. K. Bischoff, S. Parsons, Apr. 1981.
  </climb><text
        class="heading3" new="false"
        number="null.">Thought Insertion Buttress (LH Side)</text>
  <climb
        extra="" grade="19" length="27m" name="Thought Insertion"
        stars="*">The enjoyable crack on the south face of the second buttress up the gully. The start can be done two ways. The crack on the L is probably the original start and is at least 20 despite the easier line existing closer to the R arête. The R hand line has a very suspect flake on it at the roof. Beware. Finish up the crack line. P. Bigg, S. Parsons, D. Fife, Jan. 1982.
  </climb>
  <climb
        extra="" grade="15" length="25m" name="Morons In Motion"
        new="false" number=""
        stars="">It is not yet  clear where this is! The original description says to climb the obvious crack around the arête R of Thought Insertion. I. Montoya, 1988.
  </climb>
  <climb
        extra="" grade="18" length="20m" name="All Those Madmen"
        stars="**">Worth a look. The crack around the corner to the R of Thought Insertion. Climb the crack. S. Parsons, P. Bigg, D. Fife, Jan. 1982.
  </climb>
  <climb
        extra="" grade="21" length="20m" name="Second Edition"
        new="false" number=""
        stars="*">A fun route that follows the finger crack two metres R of All Those Madmen. Climb the crack, trending R at half height and through the bulge where the crack straightens (crux). S. Parsons, M. Briggs, Jan. 1982. 
  </climb><text
        class="heading3" new="false"
        number="null.">Wootang Ledge (RH Side)</text>
  <text
        class="text" new="false"
        number="null.">The next five routes start from a wide vegetated ledge 50m up the RH side of Teardrop Gully. Access either by scrambling up the RH side of the gully (easy but worth roping up) or by abseiling off the back of Step Tier (use the chain at the top of Lone Stranger but go off L, not R! Approx 35m), or probably easiest, from the top via Teardrop Wall. Walk down Teardrop Gully to the rock  pedestal at the top of Step Tier (close to the Virus on the L). Walk left of a rock pedestal as though going down to the Step Tier abseil chains but a couple of metres down round  on the R (facing down Teardrop Gully) 2 U-bolts are visible. 50m abseil will reach the ledge at the base of Wootang,  25m approx to the to top of Cornered.
Descent: A 50m abseil from the bolts on the ledge gets you back down to the ground. 
These routes are described right to left.</text>
  <climb
        extra="Þ ↓" grade="26" length="24m" name="The Colour of Magic"
        new="false" number=""
        stars="***">The slightly overhanging arête above the extreme R of the ledge. Climb the initial layaway crack (0.5-3 camalot) then undercling out R to the first bolt, continue up the arête to DBB. A. Williams, Nov. 2002.</climb>


<climb
        extra="Þ ↓" grade="27" length="25m" name="Shaolin" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="**">The line of U Bolts left of The Colour of Magic. Scramble up the large corner then step right to gain the second bolt, climb the shallow corner then right into the thin layaway seam, follow this until easier ground leads to the DBB of TCOM. A. Williams Jan 2007.</climb>
<climb
        extra="Þ ↓" grade="25" length="45m" name="Wootang" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="***">A dedication to Lois Scarr. Starts on the RH side of the wide face above the ledge. Layaways on the face for the first 10m (crux) lead to a small ledge, continue up the face above to a bolted belay on the ledge at 45m. No natural gear required. A. Williams, Oct. 2002.</climb>
  <climb
        extra="Þ ↓" grade="23" length="20m" name="Cornered" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="*">Start approximately 5m L of Wootang. Climb the thin crack line just R of the arête, protected by small to mid-sized cams (some people think these small cams are quite dodgy), then the shallow corner above past 3 fixed hangers to a DBB at the ledge. A. Williams, early 2005.</climb>
<climb
        extra="Þ ↓" grade="25" length="45m" name="Five-Nil " new="false"
        number="" stars="**">No natural gear required. Access from the top of the mountain is probably easiest. (1) 20m 25. Start 5m up the gully left of Cornered and Wootang with belay bolts on left. Climb the face and arête  past fixed hangers to a ledge and DBB (as for Cornered). (2) 25m 19. Step right from the belay and ascend the blocky corner/arête  system past fixed hangers and the final U bolt of Wootang. Either belay at the Wootang DBB or continue past another fixed hanger to the ledge above  to the top DBB. Walk off or abseil back to ledge at base of Wootang. Doug McConnell Jan. 2007.</climb>
  

</guide>