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<guide>
<text class="heading1">Teardrop Gully</text>
<text
class="text" new="false"
number="null.">Teardrop Gully comprises two sections the gully above Step Tier and the gully below Step Tier. Currently the best way to access climbs in the gully is from the top. From the Lookout shelter head towards Dennes point on Bruny Island and after several hundred metres look for the rusty pipe and cairn that mark the top of the gully (GPS: 519698E 5250583N on GDA94).
</text>
<text
class="heading2">Upper Teardrop Gully
</text>
<text
class="text">This section is described from top to bottom. Older bolt routes use carrot bolts with large heads and will only take the older RP brackets or sliding wires.
</text>
<text
class="heading3">Shady side</text>
<text
class="text">This area was described in old guides as Teardrop Wall. Many routes can be accessed from above avoiding the down climb into the gully.</text>
<text
class="text" new="false"
number="null.">Descent: There are rap stations above Sunk by a Pink Torpedo, Turkey Slap, Dag on a Crag and another off Ceci N'est Pas une Pipe.
</text>
<climb
extra="" grade="18" length="10m" name="Ano's Sojourn"
stars="*">Entertainment city. A jamming test piece. A distinct hand crack on the RH side of the main gully 50m above and L of Teardrop Wall. Jam the straight crack past the overlap on the R wall to the top. M. Collie, D. Fife, Apr. 1981.
</climb>
<climb
extra="Þ" grade="24" length="12m" name="Turkey Slap "
new="false" number=""
stars="*">The bolted arête on right side of main gully roughly midway between Sweepings and Anno's Sojurn. Climb via 4 bolts past a low crux to a DBB. Doug McConnell, Matt McMinn, Andrew Drenen 1/07.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="13" length="20m" name="Sweepings"
stars="">Start 3m to the L and above Suzerain, on a small platform behind Ceci N'est Pas Une Pipe. Up the crack in the wall which becomes a shallow corner, exiting R to finish. S. Scott, M. Stone, Mar. 1981.
</climb>
<climb
extra="Þ" grade="19" length="10m" name="Ceci N'est Pas une Pipe"
new="false" number=""
stars="*">Pronounced 'sersi nay parz une peep'. Any the wiser? Pleasant face climbing is protected by 3 BR's. Start on the downhill side of the lone chunk of rock opposite Suzerain. Rap off. R. Parkyn, Nov. 1991.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="21" length="20m" name="Cocksure Propulsion"
stars="">Start 1m L of Suzerain and climb the crack to a small roof. Undercling and bridge past this, then layback the thin crack above. Step L and up the arête to finish. M. Perchard, Mar. 1991.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="18" length="32m" name="Suzerain"
stars="*">The hand crack in the prominent corner situated towards the L side of the wall. Jam up and past the overlap on the L wall. Continue up past a recess (crux) to a large ledge. Up the crack on the L to the top. I. Lewis, L. Closs, Feb. 1974.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="18" length="22m" name="Built Like A Donkey"
stars="">The 'classic' 4 to 5 inch crack that splits the L side of the 'blank wall,' 4m R of Suzerain. Don't forget your #4 Friend. Try to climb the crack with style. R. Clarke, G. Fisher, Dec. 1983.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="24" length="18m" name="Live Fast Die Young"
stars="*">Another steep, technical and sustained number up the blank wall L of Sunk by a Pink Torpedo. Climb a shallow corner 4m L of SBAPT to a wire placement. Move R and up to the ledge and the first of 3 BR. Continue up thinly to a mid friend in the crack on the L, before moving R to finish. M. Perchard, Mar. 1992.
</climb>
<climb
extra="Þ" grade="22" length="16m" name="Sunk By A Pink Torpedo"
stars="*">Starts and finishes 1m L of Fat Snatcher. Climb the shallow corner / rib to a large sloping ledge. From the L end continue to the small ledge above then up via the face holds. 5 BR's and rap chain. O. Prall, Feb. 1992.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="8" length="14m" name="Fat Snatcher"
stars="">The squeeze chimney 2m L of the Virus. Unknown.
</climb>
<climb
extra="Þ" grade="21" length="12m" name="The Virus" new="false"
number=""
stars="**">Follow 5 Us (rebolted Jan 2007) up the L hand wall of Pretty Septic. Ignore the old bolts if you can. Lower Off. R. Parkyn, Nov. 1991.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="14" length="17m" name="Pretty Septic"
stars="">The open book corner, that faces down the river, 1m L of Sheeza. It has an interesting start. O. Prall, Nov. 1991.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="18" length="17m" name="Sheeza"
stars="">A very picturesque route just above Step Tier. Clip the BR from the L then follow the arête all the way to the top. Good pro is found in the cracks on the L. M. Perchard, Nov. 1991.
</climb>
<text
class="heading3">Sunny Side</text>
<climb extra="Þ" grade="20"
length="18m" name="Dag On A Crag" new="false" number=""
stars="*">Known to have dished out some humiliation in recent times, the grade of this route could be suspect. You need brackets with large heads, be warned. On LH side of gully at same height as Ano's Sojourn are a series of broken outcrops. This route ascends highest one, just R of an orange wall. It has 4 BR. Power up initial section past 2 BR's and move L for a friend. Move back R, up ladder, L over bulge and R again, to finish up arête. M. Perchard, Apr. 1992.
</climb>
<text
class="heading2">Lower Teardrop Gully
</text>
<text
class="text">This section offers quality short routes on steep buttresses.
</text>
<text
class="text">Access to the LH side of the gully is by scrambling 50 metres up scrubby corners and ledges from the bottom.
</text>
<text
class="text">Descent: Abseil off taped bollards to descend these routes. Abseil is not difficult to organise and definitely preferable to the downclimb.
</text>
<text
class="text">Access to the RH side is either by scrambling up the RH side of the gully (easy, but worth roping up) or by abseiling off the back of Step Tier (use the chain at the top of Lone Stranger but go off L, not R! Approx 35m). A 50m abseil from the bolts on the ledge gets you back to the base of the gully.
</text>
<text
class="text">The climbs are described from L to R going up the LH side of the gully and back down the RH side.
</text>
<text
class="text">Descent from all these climbs except the bolted routes is by tape abseil.
</text>
<climb
extra="" grade="17" length="32m" name="Out Of The Frying Pan"
stars="">The chimney to the L of Into the Fire. Needs a better description as Farewell to Arms comes next. Scramble 60m up to the first buttress on the L side of Teardrop Gully. Climb the tight chimney. S. Brennan, K. Bischoff, Apr. 1981.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="21" length="30m" name="Farewell To Arms"
new="false" number=""
stars="***">The obvious crack system on the south face of the first buttress, clearly visible from the track. Start at the base of the buttress, between Out Of The Frying Pan and Into The Fire. Climb the sustained flared cracks up the face to belay on a ledge just below the top of the buttress. Tape abseil off.D. Stephenson, N. Deka, Feb. 1989.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="22" length="30m" name="Into The Fire"
stars="**">A sustained route following the prominent corners on the north side of the first buttress, clearly visible from the Panorama Track. (1) 7m. Climb the crack just R of the arête to a small ledge. (2) 23m. Climb with difficulty into a shallow scoop using a peg or, less securely, small wires for protection. Continue through a bulge using lay away holds to one more queasy experience, a sloping jug. Continue up to belay at a ledge. S. Parsons, K. Bischoff, Apr. 1981.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="15" length="26m" name="Farouche"
stars="">The crack R of Into The Fire. Follow the chimney to start and the corner at the top. K. Bischoff, S. Parsons, Apr. 1981.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="19" length="27m" name="Thought Insertion"
stars="*">The enjoyable crack on the south face of the second buttress up the gully. The start can be done two ways. The crack on the L is probably the original start and is at least 20 despite the easier line existing closer to the R arête. The R hand line has a very suspect flake on it at the roof. Beware. Finish up the crack line. P. Bigg, S. Parsons, D. Fife, Jan. 1982.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="15" length="25m" name="Morons In Motion"
new="false" number=""
stars="">NOT clear where this is. Climb the obvious crack around the arête R of Thought Insertion. I. Montoya, 1988.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="18" length="20m" name="All Those Madmen"
stars="**">Worth a look. The crack around the corner to the R of Thought Insertion. Climb the crack. S. Parsons, P. Bigg, D. Fife, Jan. 1982.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="21" length="20m" name="Second Edition"
stars="**">A fun route that follows the finger crack two metres R of All Those Madmen. Climb the crack, trending R at half height and through the bulge where the crack straightens (crux). S. Parsons, M. Briggs, Jan. 1982.
</climb>
<text
class="text" new="false"
number="null.">The next five routes start from a wide vegetated ledge 50m up the RH side of Teardrop Gully. Access either by scrambling up the RH side of the gully (easy but worth roping up) or by abseiling off the back of Step Tier using the (approx 35m), or probably easiest, from the top via Teardrop Wall. Walk down Teardrop Gully to the rock pedestal at the top of Step Tier(close to the Virus on the L). Walk left of a rock pedestal as though going down to the Step Tier abseil chains but a couple of metres down round on the R (facing down Teardrop Gully) 2 U bolts are visible. 50m abseil will reach the ledge at the base of Wootang, 25m approx to the to top of Cornered.
</text>
<text
class="text">Descent: A 50m abseil from the bolts on the ledge gets you back down to the ground.
</text>
<climb
extra="Þ" grade="25" length="45m" name="Wootang"
stars="***">A dedication to Lois Scarr. Starts on the RH side of the wide face above the ledge. Layaways on the face for the first 10m (crux) lead to a small ledge, continue up the face above to a bolted belay on the ledge at 45m. No natural gear required. A. Williams, Oct. 2002.
</climb>
<climb
extra="Þ" grade="23" length="20m" name="Cornered"
stars="**">Start approximately 5m L of Wootang. Climb the thin crack line just R of the arête, well protected by small to mid-sized cams, then the shallow corner above past 3 fixed hangers to a DBB at the ledge. FFA A. Williams , early 2005.
</climb>
<climb
extra="Þ" grade="26" length="24m" name="The Colour of Magic"
new="false" number=""
stars="***">The slightly overhanging arête above the extreme R of the ledge. Climb the initial layaway crack (0.5-3 camalot) then undercling out R to the first bolt, continue up the arête to DBB. A. Williams, Nov. 2002.
</climb><climb
extra="" grade="" length="" name="New Climb" new="false"
number="" stars="">Al Williams 2007</climb><climb extra="Þ"
grade="25" length="45m" name="Five-Nil " new="false" number="" stars="**">No natural gear required. Access from the top of the mountain is probably easiest. 1)20m 25. Start 5m up the gully from Wootang with belay bolts on left. Climb the face and arete past fixed hangers to a ledge and DBB (as for Cornered). 2)25m 19. Step right from the belay and ascend the blocky corner/arete system past fixed hangers and the final U bolt of Wootang. Either belay at the Wootang DBB or continue past another fixed hanger to the ledge above to the top DBB. Walk off or abseil back to ledge at base of Wootang. Doug McConnell 1/07
</climb>
</guide>
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