<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<guide>
<text class="heading1" new="false"
number="null.">Fern Tree
</text>
<text class="intro"
new="false"
number="null.">Rock: Three tiers of sandstone cliffs up to 25m high. Most of the cliffs are north east facing and climbing is possible when other mountain crags are cold and cloudy.
</text>
<text
class="intro" new="false"
number="null.">Access: These cliffs are situated between Fern Tree and Nieka within the Wellington Park and access is over land owned by the City of Hobart. Park your car at the Fern Tree bus terminus 2.7 kilometres past the Fern Tree Tavern on the B64, and head back along the road 200 metres to a 4WD track on the L (GPS E0519916 N5246533). Up this to meet the Pipeline Track. Go L along the Pipeline (south) and cross the 2 metal bridges and then 20m further on, head take a R fork uphill on a partially overgrown 4WD track (GPS E0519571 N5246580). Continue up the 4WD track for 100-200m through the re-growth to a clearer area with a yellow bank on the R and a small cairn (GPS E0519602 N5246331) . Leave the 4WD track, turn R and follow a steep track up to the base of the Lower Tier at the LH end of Blade Runner Buttress (GPS E0519473 N5246381 twenty minutes from the car). For access to the base of the Lower Tier routes simply traverse right from this point. For access to the Middle Tier, traverse L from this point under Green Cliff, then up and right on a track that leads to the base of the cliffline 25m L of Blizzard Buttress. </text>
<text
class="intro" new="false"
number="null.">Climbing Info: The climbs done so far on the Lower Tier are mainly steep face climbing on reasonable sandstone. On the Middle Tier there are more trad crack climbs but some sport climbs as well. There is plenty of potential for new routes on all the Tiers. NB. This crag is very much in a developmental stage and descriptions, grades and star ratings should be viewed in that context.</text><image
new="false" number="null." src="FerntreeSmall.png"
width="600">null</image>
<text
class="heading2">Lower Tier
</text>
<text class="intro"
new="false"
number="null.">The climbs here are longer than higher up and most routes are fully bolted with lower-offs, the climbs are listed from L to R.</text>
<text
class="intro" new="false"
number="null.">Descent: There is a descent route that comes down the gully beside the Big Roof between Back On Track and Couch Potato.
Note: The bolts and anchors on Urban Wasteland, Back On Track and Couch Potato are at least 10 years old, make your own judgments as to whether they are safe enough to climb on. </text><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Green Cliff</text><text class="text" new="false"
number="null.">The track to the Middle Tier heads L from the Blade Runner Buttress, passing under a green coloured cliff. One project has been bolted here so far - Jake Bresnehan, 2007.</text>
<text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Blade Runner Buttress
</text>
<text
class="text" new="false"
number="null.">This is the buttress where the access track first meets the Lower Tier. There are currently a number of other projects in this area but the main ones climbed to date (2007) are described here. Note to visiting climbers: please don't take the fixed draws and biners as they are there for everyone's convenience. Traverse R a short distance to the start of Fly Blown. Routes described L to R.
</text>
<climb
extra="Þ ↓" grade="21" length="10m" name="Fly Blown" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Climb up the L side of the cave, pull round the overhang and then the slab to the chains. G. Phillips 2006.</climb>
<climb
extra="Þ ↓" grade="22" length="10m" name="Itchy Fingers"
new="false" number=""
stars="*">As for Fly Blown but at the jugs traverse R and up via a thin sequence of moves. G. Phillips, Dec. 2006.
</climb>
<climb
extra="Þ ↓" grade="" length="" name="The Bat Project"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Project (2007) - Direct start to Itchy Fingers, dubbed the Bat Project after finding a live bat in the cave.
</climb>
<climb
extra="Þ ↓" grade="31" length="8m" name="Future Shock"
new="false" number=""
stars="***">From the offwidth chimney head rightwards. Crazy stuff! J. Bresnehan, Feb 2006
</climb><text
class="text" new="false"
number="null.">The next four routes share the same start.</text>
<climb
extra="Þ ↓" grade="29" length="15m" name="Blubber boy"
new="false" number=""
stars="***">Awesome final section. As for Blade Runner but keep heading leftwards. G. Phillips, Feb. 2006.
</climb>
<climb
extra="Þ ↓" grade="28" length="15m" name=" Blade Runner"
new="false" number=""
stars="**">Starts up New C4's to the last bolt then traverses L along a break on tiny holds to a hard boulder problem finish. G. Phillips, Jan. 2006.
</climb>
<climb
extra="Þ ↓" grade="21" length="15m" name="New C4s" new="false"
number=""
stars="*">Climb directly up the slightly overhanging wall passing a thin section (crux) at two thirds height. G. Phillips, Dec. 2005.</climb>
<climb
extra="Þ ↓" grade="24" length="15m" name="Sand Blaster"
new="false" number=""
stars="**">Starts up New C4s then traverses R along the break and up the cool looking arête. G. Phillips, Jan. 2006</climb>
<climb
extra="Þ ↓" grade="23" length="15m" name=" Sand Blaster Direct"
new="false" number=""
stars="">The direct goes at 23 but is rated 'not so good'. G. Phillips, Jan. 2006.
</climb>
<text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Trad Wankers Buttress
</text>
<climb
extra="" grade="18" length="15m" name="Careful" new="false"
number=""
stars="">The excitement of an unexpected plunge gives meaning to the name. Start 150m R of the Blade Runner Area below a series of broken corners. Climb over the loose blocks and gain the corner proper. Follow the corner to an exciting top out. A good clean would remove much of the excitement. All natural pro a range of midsized cams and wires. D. Humphries, J. Burgess, Oct. 2005.</climb>
<text
class="text" new="false"
number="null.">Continue R to the next area, about 60m.
</text>
<text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Back On Track Buttress</text>
<text
class="text" new="false"
number="null.">Currently there are only a couple of routes in this area but there is potential for several more. The Back On Track buttress has initials painted on the rock at the bottom.
</text>
<climb
extra="Þ ↓" grade="20" length="22m" name="Urban Wasteland"
new="false" number=""
stars="**">Test your resolve on this baby. Start 2m L of Back On Track at the initials UW. Take some small to medium cams and 8+ quick draws. Follow the L bolt line to the flake then head for the double bolt belay to finish. A little dirty in places, but should clean up with some traffic. S Edwards, G. Phillips, 1994.
</climb>
<climb
extra="Þ ↓" grade="22" length="22m" name="Back On Track"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Anybody got a spare pair of undies? Starts at initials BOT. Head through overhang and up the clean wall above to double bolt belay. Take 8+ quick draws. S. Edwards, G. Phillips, 1994.</climb>
<text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Big Roof Area</text>
<text class="text"
new="false"
number="null.">This area is about 230m R of Blade Runner where you first meet the rock. Just to the R of the big roof is a descent/ascent gully for the top of the cliff. </text>
<climb
extra="Þ ↓" grade="19" length="15m" name="Scotch Finger"
new="false" number=""
stars="">This bolted route starts 5m L of the big roofs. Follow the line of bolts to the lower off. A bit loose in parts and may be a tad under graded. S. Young, 2006.
</climb><climb
extra="Þ ↓ " grade="26" length="15m" name="Chalk" new="false"
number=""
stars="">The left line of bolts finishing on the slab belay. G. Phillips March 2007
</climb><climb
extra="Þ ↓ " grade="26 " length="15m" name="Cheese" new="false"
number=""
stars="*">The right line of bolts up the overhanging arete. G. Phillips March 2007
</climb>
<text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Couch Potato and Apocalypse Now Area</text>
<text
class="text">The last two routes are way over to the R, the farthest bolted routes from where the track meets the crag. Both have initials at the start.
</text>
<climb
extra="↓" grade="24" length="25m" name="Couch Potato"
new="false" number=""
stars="**">Not strictly a sport route as it has some trad gear. Head R to the last bolted route, which starts at a hanging corner and climbs the off-vertical wall above. The initials CP are painted on the rock at the start. Head up following the bolts to the top through a balancy move at the slab to interesting moves just below the double bolt belay. Belay here or continue to the top and walk down the descent gully. Take 8+ quick draws and some small to medium cams. S. Edwards, G. Phillips, 1994.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="22" length="20m" name="Apocalypse Now"
new="false" number=""
stars="">A completely trad affair. Start 15m R of Couch Potato at the painted initials. S. Edwards, G. Philips, 1994.
</climb>
<text
class="heading2" new="false"
number="null.">Middle Tier
</text>
<text class="intro"
new="false"
number="null.">Climbs on the Middle Tier are generally shorter than the Lower Tier. There is a large potential for new routes here, both trad and sport.
</text>
<text
class="intro" new="false"
number="null.">Access: Where the main access track meets the Blade Runner buttress head L for 75m below the cliffline to the L end of Green Cliff. Follow the track up the hill trending slightly right then more directly up the hill. The track meets the base of an unclimbed buttress 25m L of Baltoro Blizzard. Traverse R to the start of the climbs. The cliff line continues further on R after Pluto as a series of 5-10m high buttresses and is largely unexplored... here be dragons. Climbs are described L to R.</text>
<text
class="intro" new="false"
number="null.">Descent: Scramble down for the trad routes, lower offs for the others.
</text><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Blizzard Buttress</text>
<climb extra=""
grade="18" length="15m" name="Baltoro Blizzard" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Takes the severely overhung hand crack 25m R of where the access track first meets the Middle Tier. Finish up the arête. Phil Steane, D. Bruce, Dec. 1982.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="17" length="15m" name="Hore Frost" new="false"
number=""
stars="">Needs a good clean. This route is on the second buttress R of Baltoro Blizzard. The thin diagonal line up the wall. D. Bruce, Phil Steane. 1982
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="19" length="15m" name="Spin Drift" new="false"
number=""
stars="">The tree is off route! The short clean crack in the wall opposite Hore Frost and 8m L of the Deep Freeze arete. Phil Steane, D. Bruce. 1982
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="18 " length="15m" name="Deep Freeze "
new="false" number=""
stars="">About 50m R of where the access track meets the base of rock, a diagonal overhanging layback crack spears up the arete. Jam 2m up an easy crack to a stance at the foot of an overhanging corner/crack running diagonally right. Climb this and proceed up the protection-less slab to the top. G. Narkowicz, Pete Steane 1981.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="29" length="12m" name="Kick Start " new="false"
number=""
stars="***">The amazing overhanging arete 1m R of Deep Freeze, and L of the corner. Power up for the 10 move boulder sequence. G. Phillips, Apr. 2007.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="" length="" name="Project April 2007"
new="false" number=""
stars="">Simon has run out of time on this one, off overseas, so help yourself if you want to finish it... still needs a few bolts.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="17" length="15m" name="Ice House" new="false"
number=""
stars="">The most obvious corner on the cliff with a jam crack. The left face is overhanging. Bridge and jam straight to top. G. Narkowicz, C. Maddock 1981</climb>
<climb
extra="Þ ↓" grade="22" length="12m" name="Belay Bunny "
new="false" number=""
stars="*">The line of bolts up the wall to the right of the corner. G. Phillips, S. Young, 5 Mar. 2007.</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="17" length="15m" name="Frigid Digit" new="false"
number=""
stars="">A thin, curving flake line that shares the start to Belay Bunny. Lay away up obvious flake running diagonally R, then climb up until you can reach high for an invisible bomb-proof jug. Climb to the ledge above and on to the top or step around into Andre Zanada to finish. Pete Steane, G. Narkowicz, 1981. </climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="17" length="15m" name="Andre Zanada" new="false"
number=""
stars="*">Two converging cracks in the corner R of Frigid Digit. Climb either crack then layback the thin flake and traverse R under final headwall then up the headwall. P.B. Steane, P.A. Steane, 1981.</climb>
<climb
extra="Þ ↓" grade="24" length="12m" name="Hermit Crab Shuffle"
new="false" number=""
stars="">The line of bolts up the wall 8m to the right of the above. S. Young, G. Phillips, Mar. 2007.
</climb><climb
extra="Þ ↓" grade="29" length="15m" name="Star Seeker"
new="false" number=""
stars="**">Intergalactic fortune and fame! The direct version of Neptune. G. Phillips, May 2007.</climb><climb
extra="Þ ↓" grade="28" length="15m" name="Neptune" new="false"
number=""
stars="*">Up the arete to the roof. Then traverse the lip and around right and up to finish. G. Phillips, May 2007.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="18" length="15m" name="Brass Monkey "
new="false" number=""
stars="">This climb is 15m R, around the arete from Hermit Crab Shuffle. Mantle onto overhanging ledge. Protection in thin crack on the left. Climb to roof and traverse right for 1.5m. Jam through the roof and follow the crack to the top. G. Narkowicz, Pete Steane, 1981.</climb><climb
extra="Þ ↓" grade="21" length="10m" name="Pluto" new="false"
number=""
stars="*">Steep start. Up the line of bolts up arete on next buttress R of Brass Monkey. S. Young, May 2007.</climb><text
class="heading2" new="false"
number="null.">Upper Tier</text><text class="text" new="false"
number="null.">Above the Middle Tier there is yet another layer on the cake, if you want to walk that far. About the same length as the Middle Tier climbs, a handful of projects have been bolted and are waiting for an ascent (June 2007).</text><text
class="intro" new="false" number="null.">Access: Walk on past Pluto along the cliff line for about another 150m untill you reach a prominent buttress. Climb up to the L of the buttress to the cliffs. Alternatively, a gully just to the R of the Big Roof Area on the Lower Tier can be climbed up steeply, past the prominent buttress of the Middle Tier, to the same point.</text>
</guide>
|