<guide> <text class="heading2">Teardrop Wall </text> <text class="text">Step Tier routes finish on a narrow ridge that overlooks Teardrop Gully. The wall on the R side of the gully above this point is known as Teardrop Wall. These routes are often done after completing a climb on Step Tier, yet can also be quickly accessed from Mt Wellington summit. A small number of bolted routes exist here and the type of bolt used only take the older RP brackets or sliding wires. Routes are described R to L. </text> <text class="text">Descent: There are rap stations above Sunk by a Pink Torpedo, Dag on a Crag and another off Ceci N'est Pas une Pipe. </text> <climb name="Sheeza" stars="" grade="18" length="17m" extra="">A very picturesque route at the R hand end of Teardrop Wall, at the obvious change in rock colouration. Clip the BR from the L then follow the arête all the way to the top. Good pro is found in the cracks on the L. M. Perchard, Nov. 1991. </climb> <climb name="Pretty Septic" stars="" grade="14" length="17m" extra="">The open book corner, that faces down the river, 1m L of Sheeza. It has an interesting start. O. Prall, Nov. 1991. </climb> <climb name="The Virus" stars="**" grade="21" length="14m" extra="Þ">Follow 5 Us (rebolted Jan 2007) up the L hand wall of Pretty Septic. Lower Off. R. Parkyn, Nov. 1991. </climb> <climb name="Fat Snatcher" stars="" grade="8" length="14m" extra="">The squeeze chimney 2m L of the Virus. Unknown. </climb> <climb name="Sunk By A Pink Torpedo" stars="*" grade="22" length="16m" extra="Þ">Starts and finishes 1m L of Fat Snatcher. climb the shallow corner / rib to a large sloping ledge. From the L end continue to the small ledge above then up via the face holds. 5 BR's and rap chain. O. Prall, Feb. 1992. </climb> <climb name="Live Fast Die Young" stars="*" grade="24" length="18m" extra="">Another steep, technical and sustained number up the blank wall L of Sunk by a Pink Torpedo. climb a shallow corner 4m L of SBAPT to a wire placement. Move R and up to the ledge and the first of 3 BR. Continue up thinly to a mid friend in the crack on the L, before moving R to finish. M. Perchard, Mar. 1992. </climb> <climb name="Built Like A Donkey" stars="" grade="18" length="22m" extra="">The 'classic' 4 to 5 inch crack that splits the L side of the 'blank wall,' 4m R of Suzerain. Don't forget your #4 Friend. Try to climb the crack with style. R. Clarke, G. Fisher, Dec. 1983. </climb> <climb name="Suzerain" stars="*" grade="18" length="32m" extra="">The hand crack in the prominent corner situated towards the L side of the wall. Jam up and past the overlap on the L wall. Continue up past a recess (crux) to a large ledge. Up the crack on the L to the top. I. Lewis, L. Closs, Feb. 1974. </climb> <climb name="Cocksure Propulsion" stars="" grade="21" length="20m" extra="">Start 1m L of Suzerain and climb the crack to a small roof. Undercling and bridge past this, then layback the thin crack above. Step L and up the arête to finish. M. Perchard, Mar. 1991. </climb> <climb name="Ceci N'est Pas une Pipe" stars="*" grade="19" length="10m" extra="Þ">Pronounced 'sersi nay parz une peep'. Any the wiser? Pleasant face climbing is protected by 3 BR's. Start on the downhill side of the lone chunk of rock opposite Suzerain. R. Parkyn, Nov. 1991. </climb> <climb name="Sweepings" stars="" grade="13" length="20m" extra="">Start 3m to the L and above Suzerain, on a small platform behind Ceci N'est Pas Une Pipe. Up the crack in the wall which becomes a shallow corner, exiting R to finish. S. Scott, M. Stone, Mar. 1981. </climb> <climb name="Ano's Sojourn" stars="*" grade="18" length="10m" extra="">Entertainment city. A jamming test piece. A distinct hand crack on the RH side of the main gully 50m above and L of Teardrop Wall. Jam the straight crack past the overlap on the R wall to the top. M. Collie, D. Fife, Apr. 1981. </climb> <climb name="Dag On A Crag" stars="*" grade="20" length="18m" extra="Þ">Known to have dished out some humiliation in recent times, the grade of this route could be suspect. You need brackets with large heads, be warned. On LH side of gully at same height as Ano's Sojourn are a series of broken outcrops. This route ascends highest one, just R of an orange wall. It has 4 BR. Power up initial section past 2 BR's and move L for a friend. Move back R, up ladder, L over bulge and R again, to finish up rête. M. Perchard, Apr. 1992. </climb> <text class="heading2">Teardrop Gully </text> <text class="text">The gully L of Teardrop Wall, the lower section offers quality short routes on steep buttresses. </text> <text class="text">Access to the LH side of the gully is by scrambling 50 metres up scrubby corners and ledges from the bottom. </text> <text class="text">Descent: Abseil off taped bollards to descend these routes. Abseil is not difficult to organise and definitely preferable to the downclimb. </text> <text class="text">Access to the RH side is either by scrambling up the RH side of the gully (easy, but worth roping up) or by abseiling off the back of Step Tier (use the chain at the top of Lone Stranger but go off L, not R! Approx 35m). A 50m abseil from the bolts on the ledge gets you back to the base of the gully. </text> <text class="text">The climbs are described from L to R going up the LH side of the gully and back down the RH side. </text> <text class="text">Decent from all these climbs except the bolted routes is by tape abseil. </text> <climb name="Out Of The Frying Pan" stars="" grade="17" length="32m" extra="">The chimney to the L of Into the Fire. Needs a better description as Farewell to Arms comes next. Scramble 60m up to the first buttress on the L side of Teardrop Gully. climb the tight chimney. S. Brennan, K. Bischoff, Apr. 1981. </climb> <climb name="Farewell To Arms" stars="***" grade="21" length="30m" extra="">The obvious crack system on the south face of the first buttress, clearly visible from the track. Start at the base of the buttress, between Out Of The Frying Pan and Into The Fire. climb the sustained flared cracks up the face to belay on a ledge just below the top of the buttress. D. Stephenson, N. Deka, Feb. 1989. </climb> <climb name="Into The Fire" stars="**" grade="22" length="30m" extra="">A sustained route following the prominent corners on the north side of the first buttress, clearly visible from the Panorama Track. (1) 7m. climb the crack just R of the arête to a small ledge. (2) 23m. climb with difficulty into a shallow scoop using a peg or, less securely, small wires for protection. Continue through a bulge using lay away holds to one more queasy experience, a sloping jug. Continue up to belay at a ledge. S. Parsons, K. Bischoff, Apr. 1981. </climb> <climb name="Farouche" stars="" grade="15" length="26m" extra="">The crack R of Into The Fire. Follow the chimney to start and the corner at the top. K. Bischoff, S. Parsons, Apr. 1981. </climb> <climb name="Thought Insertion" stars="*" grade="19" length="27m" extra="">The enjoyable crack on the south face of the second buttress up the gully. The start can be done two ways. The crack on the L is probably the original start and is at least 20 despite the easier line existing closer to the R arête. The R hand line has a very suspect flake on it at the roof. Beware. Finish up the crack line. P. Bigg, S. Parsons, D. Fife, Jan. 1982. </climb> <climb name="Morons In Motion" stars="" grade="15" length="25m" extra="">climb the obvious crack around the arête R of Thought Insertion. I. Montoya, 1988. </climb> <climb name="All Those Madmen" stars="**" grade="18" length="20m" extra="">Worth a look. The crack around the corner to the R of Thought Insertion. climb the crack. S. Parsons, P. Bigg, D. Fife, Jan. 1982. </climb> <climb name="Second Edition" stars="**" grade="21" length="20m" extra="">A fun route that follows the finger crack two metres R of All Those Madmen. climb the crack, trending R at half height and through the bulge where the crack straightens (crux). S. Parsons, M. Briggs, Jan. 1982. </climb> <text class="text">The next three routes start from a wide vegetated ledge 50m up the RH side of Teardrop Gully. Access either by scrambling up the RT side of the gully (easy but worth roping up) or by abseiling off the back of Step Tier using the (approx 35m). </text> <text class="text">Descent: A 50m abseil from the bolts on the ledge gets you back down to the ground. </text> <climb name="Wootang" stars="***" grade="25" length="45m" extra="Þ">A dedication to Lois Scarr. Starts on the RH side of the wide face above the ledge. Layaways on the face for the first 10m (crux) lead to a small ledge, continue up the face above to a bolted belay on the ledge at 45m. No natural gear required. A. Williams, Oct. 2002. </climb> <climb name="Cornered" stars="**" grade="23" length="20m" extra="Þ">Start approximately 5m L of Wootang. climb the thin crack line just R of the arête, well protected by small to mid-sized cams, then the shallow corner above past 3 fixed hangers to a DBB at the ledge. FFA A. Williams , early 2005. </climb> <climb name="The Colour of Magic" stars="***" grade="26" length="24m" extra="Þ">The slightly overhanging arête above the extreme R of the ledge. climb the initial layaway crack (0.5-3 camalot) then undercling out R to the first bolt, continue up the arête to double bolt belay. A. Williams, Nov. 2002. </climb> </guide> |