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<guide>
<header
access="Maps: TASMAP 1:100,000 Old River For more detailed access information see John Chapman's excellent book 'South West Tasmania', 1998, which is available in Hobart outdoor shops. The quickest approach to Federation peak is from Farmhouse Creek via Moss Ridge. Bechervaise plateau can be reached in one very full day of walking, or more reasonably in a day and a half. Various other approaches exist including the traverse of the Eastern Arthurs, see Chapman for more details.
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<br/>To reach Farmhouse creek: from Hobart head south on the Huon Highway to Geeveston. At the War Memorial in Geeveston leave the Huon Highway and turn west onto the signposted Arve Road. This is followed for 27km, ignoring side roads, to the road junction 1km before the Tahune Airwalk. Turn left onto the signposted 'Picton Road'. At the next junction, about a further km on, don't turn left but continue straight on for about 20kms, crossing the Picton River, eventually arriving at the bridge over Farmhouse Creek. There are several suitable places to camp near the road. Check access with Parks and Wildlife as logging operations in the area may result in road closures.
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<br/>From Farmhouse Creek follow the track for 18km (10-12hours) to Cutting Camp where good campsites exist. There has been a large number of trees blown down on the track, which is not maintained, and progress can be slow. From here it is a very steep and muddy slog up Moss Ridge, taking 4 to 6 hours to reach Bechervaise Plateau. From Bechervaise Plateau the Southern Traverse may be followed to reach the western campsites.
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<br/>If you are walking out via the Eastern Arthurs, allow at least another three days ."
acknowledgement="This rough guide to Federation Peak mainly comes from the 1969 CCT Guide written by Reg Williams. The old guide used English grades, and where I am not sure of the grade of a route in the Ewbank scale I have included the English grade for reference, but treat all grades given with suspicion. Thanks to Grant Dixon and John Burgess for providing the original guide and route information. Any updated or new route descriptions will be gratefully accepeted. No liability is accepted for the accuracy of any of the information in this guide. Climbing at Federation is very serious undertaking."
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intro="Federation Peak in Tasmania's remote South West has been described as 'Australia's premier mountain - a true rock spire of high calibre and soaring proportions'. It is home to Australia's longest climbs, some over 600m on excellent featured white quartzite. Although Federation attracts many bushwalkers every season, few climbers are now prepared to brave the arduous approach and the area's notoriously bad weather, particulalry since air drops of food and equipment are now banned.
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<br/>A trip to Federation is not just another day at the crags - it involves a commitment to an expedition of at least 5 days, and the risk that no climbing will be done due to bad weather. Be prepared for an adventure. Taking an EPIRB is not a bad idea as there have been several fatalities on the mountain and rescue is a long way away.
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<br/>Federation Peak is part of Tasmania's World Heritage Area, so please respect the wilderness and stick to the principles of minimal impact bushwalking. The WHA is a fuel-stove only area."
name="Federation Peak" new="false"
rock="Alpine quartzite, similar to Frenchmans Cap" sun=""
walk="2 days tough bushwalk"></header><text
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guide.page="0" guide.type="text" new="false"
value="Camping: The following sites are available for camping: <br/> <br/>Cutting Camp - Good sites well above the stream on both sides of the creek. GR 596089. <br/>Bechervaise Plateau - Provides the only campsites east of the peak. Both upper and lower plateaus have semi-exposed sites. Camping plateforms are provided on the upper plateau but there are no toilets and water is from small pools or the creek on the upper plateau. GR 576089. <br/>Hanging Lake - Camping platforms are provided below the northem rim of the open ridge near the lake outlet. Tremendous views but unattractive in poor weather. Camping beside the lake is now banned. Go downhill from the camp for toilets. GR 566082. <br/>Thwaites Plateau North - A large well sheltered camp cut into 5m high scoparia on the large ridge on the north side of Thwaites Plateau. Water from pools on the plateau. This is the best sheltered site near the peak. GR 566082.">Camping: The following sites are available for camping:
Cutting Camp - Good sites well above the stream on both sides of the creek. GR 596089.
Bechervaise Plateau - Provides the only campsites east of the peak. Both upper and lower plateaus have semi-exposed sites. Camping plateforms are provided on the upper plateau but there are no toilets and water is from small pools or the creek on the upper plateau. GR 576089.
Hanging Lake - Camping platforms are provided below the northem rim of the open ridge near the lake outlet. Tremendous views but unattractive in poor weather. Camping beside the lake is now banned. Go downhill from the camp for toilets. GR 566082.
Thwaites Plateau North - A large well sheltered camp cut into 5m high scoparia on the large ridge on the north side of Thwaites Plateau. Water from pools on the plateau. This is the best sheltered site near the peak. GR 566082.</text>
<image
new="false" noPrint="true" src="map2.gif" width=""/><text
class="noPrint" new="false"
value="Map of the area around Federation Peak (from J.Chapman)">Map of the area around Federation Peak (from J.Chapman)
</text>
<text
class="heading2">North-West Face and Blade Ridge
</text>
<text
class="text">The North-West Face and the Blade Ridge together form the most spectacular feature of the Federation Peak massif. Emerging from the clinging vegetation of the Northern Lakes valley, the Blade presents a slim, tapering, vertical face, above which a serious of giant, razor-crested steps rise to meet the North-West Face at about 250m below the summit of the mountain. From here, the Face towers as a near vertical wall, its sweep broken first by the Bus Stop ledge and then by a huge overhanging roof 60m below the summit.</text><image
src="topo1.gif" width=""/><text
class="text">
Topo 1: Blade Ridge
</text>
<climb extra=""
grade="17" length="420m"
name="Blade Ridge">Blade Ridge, together with the NW Face provides a high standard climb of over 600m which is continuously steep (being near vertical for the most part) and unrelenting in standard.
Start: In the gully at the foot of the scree chute at the upper end of the Northern Lakes valley. The Blade is the last ridge before the cliffs which fall from the ridge connecting Thwaites Plateau with the Peak. It has an obvious buttress to the right, and a similar blade to the left, and is set back from both of these.
1) Solo up for 60m through scrub, at a steep angle, to the base of the rock proper
2) 27m Climb up through scrub on reasonable holds, using bush runners, until a small grassy ledge is reached
3) 45m Step right, and continue up until the angle eases.
4) 36m Move up to the right, below the slight but obvious corner. Piton runner (nut in corner). Step further right, then back left, using trees where necessary. Belay on a small ledge at the foot of an overhang.
5) 45m Move a few feet up the overhang, then traverse slightly left onto the ridge proper. Move up the cracks until it is necessary to crawl through a large bush at 20m. Move onto the ledge above this and traverse left until the obvious weakness, a fracture, going up to the right is reached. Move up this (awkward), and belay on the ledge at the top.
6) 15m Climb back onto the ridge proper. Belay on the first step.
7) 24m Continue the line on reasonable holds until a belay can be made at the left-hand side of the ridge, beneath a prominent overhang.
8) 24m Traverse across to the right, then back left to the front of the ridge. Move up the overhang, (awkward) on good holds. Belay on the horizontal part of the second step.
9) 22m Traverse easily the 22m along the horizontal blade to reach the left-hand corner of a triangular wall.
10) 36m Move up the left hand side of the ridge until the next horizontal blade, on the third step, is reached.
11) 36m Follow the horizontal ridge until a small overhang is obvious. Move up and around this to the left, (awkward) using a hand jamb, until it is possible to step around on to the left side of the ridge, and on to the horizontal ridge again.
12) 50m Move along this last step easily, until the foot of the NW Face proper is reached (the start of pitch 4 of the NW Face Route).
Continue up the face or escape by reversing the first 3 pitches of the NW Face Route
FA: Peter Heddles, Rod Harris, David Neilson, Jack Woods (var) February 1968
</climb>
<image
src="topo2.gif" width=""/><text
class="text">
Topo 2: The North West Face
</text>
<climb
extra="" grade="17" length="330m"
name="The North West Face">A truly magnificent climb of considerable length and seriousness on rock of suberb quality.
Start: To the left of the NW Face is a couloir. Scramble down this from the Terrace until one is 30m or so below the level of the top of the Blade Ridge and at the foot of a greasy slab on the right-hand wall of the couloir.
1) 24m Climb straight up for 8m over very greasy and bushy rock (poor bush runners). traverse right, into a shallow gully, and after climbing up it a little way go out and up to the right. Belay off a weak spike and a big scoparia bush.
2) 36m Climb around the buttress to the right, (bush runner) and then traverse around its side into the corner below the Blade Ridge.
3) 30m Ascend the corner above and belay off a large bollard on the ledge where the Blade Ridge meets the NW Face.
4) 36m Here begins the NW Face proper. Above is a shallow grassy cleft leading up to the right. Follow this, (greasy in places) using a spike and bush runners. Belay on the sloping ledge at the top.
5) 22m Climb straight up the crack above for 3m then traverse right and straight up on delicate holds (extremely exposed) to another runner. Continue up steeply, on bigger holds, until a small ledge is reached.
6) 36m Move diagonally up left on the easy ramp for 6m then straight on up over loose blocks until a traverse right is possible. Go on up until an obvious, easy traverse left is seen. Follow this and belay on the left hand end of the 'Bus Stop' ledge. The ascent of the Bus Stop pinnacle provides an interesting diversion at this point.
7) 33m Immediately above is an obvious diedre which steepens considerably at 18m. Climb the diedre, step out on to the arete on the right and proceed diagonally right on steep rock until a big obvious flake is reached. Continue up steeply, on big holds, until a very small ledge is reached immediately below the large roof.
8) 15m Proceed with the thin, sustained traverse to the left, toward the chimney through the roof. Move around the rib at the end of the traverse and belay from a chockstone 3m above a poor stance on the rib.
9) 27m Start the chimney with some effort (right wall greasy) and climb to a chockstone runner at 5m. Continue up the overhanging chimney, using chockstone runners, to a cramped resting place below the crux. (On the first ascent the leader squeezed through a narrow cleft in the back of the chimney, however subsequent leaders have been unable to fit through and have chimneyed outside the cleft.) Chimney out awkwardly until a tiny ledge on the left wall can be reached. Continue up via easing ground and belay on the large chockstone which blocks the top of the chimney.
10) 36m Climb the crack above, then follow the steep ramp which runs diagonally right, towards the summit.
11) 36m Climb easily up a large broken crack, then scramble to the summit.
FA: Bob Jones, Jack O'Halloran (alt), Geoff Shaw, and Rob Dunse 2 and 3/1/1961
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="18" length="220m"
name="The North West Face Direct">This route takes a direct line straight up the NW Face.
Start: Either climb Blade Ridge or the first 3 pitches of the NW Face Route to the point where Blade Ridge meets the NW Face.
1 - 4) As for NW Face Route to below the big roof
5) Jam out through the 45 degree roof to big jugs and a mantleshelf on the lip.
6) Up classic chimney.
7) Steep and juggy wall to a big ledge
8) Chimney-corner to the summit.
FA: Reg Marron, John Croker and Keith Egerton 1979
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="18" length="280m+"
name="Joe and Simon Go Gardening">Finishes up Direct Finish to original North west face route. This climb is reached by following the southern traverse from Berchavise Plateau
past start of normal ascent route. Continue round mountain and descend into a major gully on R. Route follows prominent arete to bus stop
ledge, then directly up off-width to fist crack through overhang, then up slabs to summit. Arete is L of massive roof at approx 150m
1) 50m Start 50m right of arete. Traverse L, then up small ledge 5m right of arete.
2) 45m L to arete, then up (protection in crack in L wall) HB.
3) 45m up arete and L wall to good ledge (with mossy seat).
4) 50m arete and L wall to big ledge. Traverse along ledge to bus stop ledge.(End of New Climbing).
5) 45m (crux) Major off-width to fist sized crack. Past two pieces of fixed protection and through overhang to comfortable, sitting belay in crack.
6) 45m Crack and face and big ledge with broken rock above. A further 70-80m or scrambling leads to the top.
FA: Joe Goding(2,3,5,6) Simon Dadley-Moore(1,4) 1-96
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="16" length="270m"
name="Carlyle">Takes the monster line 30m or so right of the NW Face direct route.
Start: Along the Southern Traverse to the top of the last NW facing gully. Scramble down on the LH side of the gully. Start where the RH side of the gully finishes in a grassy ledge. Belay on this ledge.
1) 42m Move up from the ledge on good holds then around a corner onto the Western Face proper. Follow an obvious traverse over large blocks to a scrubby ledge. Big cracker belay. Editor's note: I've got no idea what a 'cracker' is, but I presume it means wide pro.
2) 36m Climb the crappy crack above. Move on to the right wall at the old slings, then up and back into the crack. Climb the corner to a small cracker belay at the start of the obvious traverse line.
3) 44m Move out right on small scrubby ledges then up and back left past a block, following the obvious weaknesses towards a scoparia bush. Go up to a ledge before reaching the bush.
4) 40m Climb the crack above to a large belay ledge.
5) 42m Climb the crack taking whatever side you wish.
6) 45m Continue up to an exit on the left of a large obstruction and belay on a very large ledge.
7) 27m Climb straight up over a chock stone then follow an obvious, easy chimney to the top.
FA: K. Prinz, L. Closs, Jan 1971
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="13" length="245m"
name="Wild West Route">This route is on the west face, which faces Hanging Lake.
Start: Along the Southern Traverse to the top of the last NW facing gully.
1) 39m Go right then up behind a pillar to some chockstones.
2) 45m Traverse down to the grassy ledge.
3) 36m Move up then left at the corner, then zig-zag a few times until a ledge is reached.
4) 42m Move up then left along a hand traverse then up for a while to belay below an overhanging crack.
5) 36m Move out on to the right wall or straight up the crack, then continue up easily and belay near a row of loose blocks.
6) 45m Move up the cracks to the right. No protection is available for moving straight up. Another possibility would be to go out to the left and then up. Move back left and up obvious final corner.
FA: L. Closs, K. Prinz (alt) Jan 1971
</climb>
<text
class="heading2">Bechervaise Plateau Face
</text>
<text
class="text">
This steep face overlooks Bechervaise Plateau and forms the northern side of the summit block. As seen from below, the view is considerably foreshortened; however, the height, in excess of 120m, is soon appreciated when one is at grips with a climb on this excellent cliff. Five of the routes on this face start at a line of weakness toward the left hand edge of the face, below and slightly on the right of an obvious yellow diedre (Golden Diedre).
</text>
<image
src="topo3.gif" width=""/><text
class="text">
Topo 3: Bechervaise Plateau Face Routes:
</text>
<climb
extra="(Severe)" grade="14?" length="192m"
name="MUMC Route No. 3 -" number="3."
stars="">Start: As for North East Corner
1) 27m As for NEC
2) 33m Continue up the crack for 18m (crux), then traverse diagonally right into the foot of the large hanging gully which runs down from the centre of the summit ridge.
3) 33m Traverse easily across a grassy slope to the right-hand side of the gully.
4) 24m Move upwards then make an awkward step right, around a corner, to enter a prominent crack. Continue up the crack.
5) 30m Continue up inside the crack. The main face of the top of the peak mass is above and to the left at this stage.
6) 35m Move onto, and continue up the face.
7) 10m Climb easily to the summit ridge
FA: Faye Kerr, Bill Brewsher, Dec 1951
</climb>
<climb
extra="(Hard Severe)" grade="15?" length="120m"
name="MUMC Route No. 4 -" number="4."
stars="">The climb follows MUMC Route 3 for the first three pitches and then continues to the summit ridge via the previously mentioned hanging gully.
4) 20m Ascend directly up the gully.
5) 36m Continue up to the top, the crux is about 12m above the belay.
FA: John Young, Joan King, Brian Wells, Burnie Rymer, Jan 1952
</climb>
<climb
extra="(Severe)" grade="14?" length="138m"
name="North-East Corner" number="NE."
stars="">A sustained, delicate and exposed route on delightful rock, following a natural line up the NE corner of the face.
Start: At the foot of a prominent vertical crack toward the left-hand end of the face.
1) 27m Climb directly up the face, a little to the left of the crack. Move into the crack for belay.
2) 30m Go on up the corner until it is possible to use holds on the left wall, which is followed until one is level with a good ledge in a sort of cave to the right. Step across the corner into this and belay off a large bollard.
3) 30m Climb the corner, mainly on its left wall, for 6m then begin a rising traverse out across the slab on the left until a welcome white spike runner is reached. Continue the delicate traverse left (exposed) without rising any more until one comes to a shallow line leading upwards with a diagonal trend to the left. Belay on the small ledge at the top of this, adjacent to the yellow diedre.
4) 24m Move to the right for a few feet, then climb up the slab for 6m. Ascend diagonally to the right on small but plentiful holds, move into and climb the corner (fairly delicate) until a very small ledge is reached.
5) 27m Proceed up the slab, just to the left of the corner, until the going becomes thin. Move into the corner and continue up, using layback moves, to a greasy ledge at its top. Move easily on to the right hand wall and so get out on to a beg ledge and a belay. Scramble to the summit.
FA: Rob Taylor, Reg Williams (alt), Chris Baxter, Jan 1965
Variation 1: After the 4th pitch, move out diagonally left to the middle of the slab and climb directly to the top (exposed and delicate with sparse protection). FA: Jim Newlands, Mike Stone, Jan 1966
Variation 2: Terminate the 5th pitch on the greasy ledge at the top of the corner. 6) 18m Move diagonally left along a narrow ledge until clear of the overhang above, then climb directly to the top. FA: John Moore, Reg Williams, Jan 1966
</climb>
<climb
extra="(MVS)" grade="17" length="135m" name="Golden Diedre"
number="GD."
stars="">This climb follows the prominent yellow diedre on the NE corner of the summit block. It is sustained and delicate over the last 75m.
Start: Below the diedre, in the obvious crack which slopes up to the right, about 18m to the left of the start of NE Corner
1) 45m Move up the crack easily, and belay on the ledge at the top.
2) 15m Scramble easily up to the foot of the diedre. Belay on a small grassy ledge
3) 42m Move up the corner of the diedre on delicate holds, then traverse left under a roof (awkward). Continue up the corner, laybacking where necessary, and belay on a poor stance on a sloping ledge.
4) 33m Continue up the corner, again laybacking where necessary, until a narrow, overhanging chimney (on the right) is reached at about 27m. Move up this (awkward) and belay at the top of the crack. Scramble to the summit.
FA: Rod Harris, Peter Heddles, Feb 1968
</climb>
<climb
extra="when dry (Hard Difficult)" grade="12" length="36m"
name="The Climbing Gully" number="CG."
stars="">This is the original route to the summit and is still used by some parties.
Start: On the Terrace, at the S-E corner of the summit block, adjacent to a vee cleft which decends towards Lake Geeves.
1) 18m Ascend the obvious gully, starting on the right-hand wall and then moving into a cleft and up on to a large, sloping ledge. Belay here, taking care with loose rock.
2) 18m Climb the corner above the ledge until a chockstone overhang is reached; then traverse left, along a narrow, sloping shelf, to a notch which gives access to a large gully (Geeves Gully) leading to the summit.
Scramble up the gully to the summit.
FA: Geelong College party, lead by John Bechervaise 1947
</climb>
<climb
extra="(Mild Severe)" grade="13?" length="105m"
name="Uncertain Day">
Start: the obvious corner on the cliff immediately above Bechervaise Plateau ???
1) 24m Chimney up, after an awkward start getting into the chimney, until a chockstone.
2) 18m Continue up the chimney and belay on the ledge at the top.
3) 45m Move up the slabs, to the right, until it is possible to scramble to the top.
FA: Peter Heddles, David Neilson, Feb 1968
</climb>
<text
class="heading2">South Western Cliffs
</text>
<text
class="text">
These form the somewhat broken aspect which the Peak presents when viewed from the vicinity of Hanging Lake.
</text>
<image
src="topo4.gif" width=""/><text
class="text">Topo 4: South Western Cliffs Routes</text>
<text
class="text">
The Southern Traverse 1km, 1 to 2 hours
This is the high level route from Bechervaise Plateau to Thwaites Plateau. It traverses across the steep southern face of Federation Peak. The route has some awkward scrambling with tremendous exposure and requires care to cross it safely. The route is also used to gain access to the normal route to the summit. Parties carrying packs across the route should double the times given above.
Start on the Terrace, near the foot of the Climbing Gully, at the top of a deep cleft (Geeves Window) through which Lake Geeves is visible. Pass through the cleft and descend steeply until an easy traverse to the west is possible. Climb a narrow couloir, passing under an enormous chockstone, to reach the top of a broad buttress against the main summit block. Continue west, and descend from the buttress into the broad which runs down from the SW corner of the Peak. Ascend this couloir, and follow the ridge toward Thwaites Plateau and Hanging Lake.
</text>
<climb
extra="" grade="" length="75m" name="MUMC Route No. 1"
number="1"
stars="">Start: In the upper part of the broad couloir on the south side of the deep notch formed where the ridge from Thwaites Plateau joins the peak.
Climb directly up, over rock of varying difficulty, and via a prominent chimney, to a point where descent into Geeves Gully is possible.
FA: Bill Brewsher, Joan King, Dec 1951
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="" length="100m" name="Normal Route" number="2"
stars="">This is the cairned route to the summit used by bushwalkers. It follows roughly the same line as MUMC Route No. 2.
Start about half way along the Southern Traverse at a large cairn on top of the 'broad buttress'. Follow cairns directly up the slope to the foot of a rocky step in the gully above. Climb this by traversing up left then right up the ramp. About 10m higher up, the track leads left out of the gully across steep rock into the next short gully. Climb steeply up this gully for 30m then follow the steep ridge up right for another 20m. Above sheer rock walls bar the way. The route heads right to the foot of a rocky wall. Climb steeply up the comer on the left of the wall then follow the ledge right and climb the shallow groove in the centre of the wall to the grassy ramp above. Continue up the ramp into the top of Geeves Gully. Climb the gully to the ridge crest and follow the left ridge to the roomy summit and log book.
FA: Brian Wells, John Young, Dec 1951. Cairned in 1967 by the HWC.
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="" length="140m" name="MUMC Route No. 5"
number="5"
stars="">Start as for the Normal Route. Climb up a long gully leading towards the summit, until the way is blocked by a large overhang. Bypass this on the right and climb directly to the summit.
FA: Bill Brewsher, Bruce Graham (alt.) Jan 1952
</climb>
<climb
extra="" grade="" length="140m" name="MUMC Route No. 6"
number="6" stars="">Start as for the Normal Route. Climb the arete to the left of the long gully of MUMC Route 5. On reaching the overharng ascend the chimney on its left and continue to the summit.
FA: Faye Kerr, John Young (alt.) Jan 1952
</climb>
</guide>
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