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<guide guidestars="*" pagesize="500"><header
access="Access to Rocky Tom requires a ten minute drive and then a fifteen minute walk. From the city centre, head for the eastern shore via the Tasman Bridge and head for Sorell. Leave the highway 4 km from the bridge at the B33 exit (Mornington, Warrane, etc), turn right toward Flagstaff Gully and park 5 km further on at the Flagstaff Gully Reserve. Note that the gate 100m from the end of the road is locked after hours, so it is advisable to park in the area provided just outside the gate. There is now an additional gate about 800 m before the one marked on the map. You can walk from it. If the timing suits it is open: weekdays 6am – 4pm; Sat 6am – 12 pm; Sun closed.
The walk has been considered by some to be steep and exhausting, but it is short and along a well defined track. From the car, walk to the end of the bitumen road. Follow the 4wd road which leads down left from behind the tree in the middle of a parking bay. This soon crosses a creek and then heads uphill. After ascending for about ten minutes, the road veers right and a walking track heads up to the left. Follow this for 200m up to Shadow Buttress.
The buttresses and climbs are described in the conventional left-to-right ordering. Note that the track first approaches Shadow Buttress, then crosses the hill to Hanging Buttress, before swinging east past the rest of Castle Wall, Square Buttress and White Stump. The Bastille and Lone Tower are approached from Shadow Buttress by deviating from the normal track."
acknowledgement="by Matt Perchard, topos by Peter Jackson. Originally published in Craglets."
history=""
intro="This crag has a high occurrence of visits by Scout groups and school 'adventure skills' classes. The reason for its popularity with novices is pretty obvious when you visit, as it is one of the few cliffs in the Hobart region with a predominance of excellent easy routes. It also contains its share of good hard routes. Rocky Tom's popularity is also boosted by its closeness to town and a sunny aspect.
The climbs at Rocky Tom are usually top-roped which is quite easily done (many have been soloed and, to my knowledge, no-one has ended up like Russel Chudleigh yet). Stainless steel bolts provide anchors at the top of some of the more popular routes, and trees are otherwise plentiful. However, there are few gear placements for those who would want to lead. As top-roping is the status-quo, the climbs have been graded for a top-rope ascent (whereas all other crags in this book are graded for a lead ascent). Most climbs are about 8m high and all are on sandstone."
name="Rocky Tom" new="false"
rock="Short sandstone buttresses. In places the rock is quite good."
sun="Mixed sun and shade" walk="30 min uphill"></header><image
new="false" noPrint="false" number="null." src="RockyT_Map.PNG"
width="800">null</image><text class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">White Stump</text><text
class="text">From Hanging Buttress head east along the jeep track for 300m until the track heads down-hill to the right. The buttress is 30m down left. The rock on the buttress is fairly brittle, so leading is less desirable here than elsewhere. Nevertheless, it does provide very steep and strenuous climbing and provides the longest climbs in the area.</text><image
new="false" noPrint="false" number="null."
src="RT_01_White_Stump.PNG" width="500">null</image><climb
extra="" grade="13" length="17m"
name="Miss Muffet (M)">Climb the arete on the left-hand end of the buttress. TR Christie, 1967.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="15m"
name="Cast Iron Claw (C)">The face halfway between the left-hand arete and the chimney of Funnel-web. The first moves are fairly tricky. The rest is easier but steep.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="15" length="15m"
name="Funnel-web (F)">The chimney which evenly bisects the buttress. Move out right at the top. TR Reg Williams, 1967.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="20" length="15m"
name="Devil Rides Out (D)">A devious and rather psychologically demanding little route. Start at the base of the chimney of Funnel-web. Traverse out on small holds, heel-hook onto the face (crux) then finish up the cracks and face above.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="15m"
name="Fly Trap (T)">A testing route up the face just right of Funnel-web. Steep and worthwhile, though a little loose on the lower sections.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="15" length="15m"
name="Spider Wall (S)">The wall directly above the cherry tree. The difficulties are proportional to the height. TR John Wholan, 1967.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="13" length="10m"
name="Gossamer (G)">Just around the corner to the right of Spider Wall is a gently sloping face. Start with a good orthopaedic move 2m right of the arete, then follow the good holds above to the top.</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Square Buttress</text><text
class="text">The next worthwhile buttress to the right. The rock is secure, the holds small and testing, and the climbing technical. Located halfway between White Stump and Castle Walls, it is easily approached from either. Follow the jeep trail until you see the flat top of a buttress and a large gum tree 5m from the cliff edge. A metre high cave runs most of its length at ground level.</text><image
new="false" noPrint="false" number="null."
src="RT_02_Square.PNG" width="500">null</image><climb extra=""
grade="9" length="5m"
name="Arapiles Crack (A)">The left-hand crack of the buttress. You won't even get warmed up on this one! TR Baxter, Stranger, 1967.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="10m"
name="Square Root Variant (V)">Start as for Arapiles Crack. Climb up for a couple of metres until a weakness leads up right. Follow this, move right 2m then finish directly up on sloping holds.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="10m"
name="Square Root Direct (D)">Start midway along the face. Climb directly up to meet the traverse of the original line then finish as for that "root".</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="10m"
name="Surd (Su)">The best route on the face. Start as for Square Root Direct. Climb up to the traverse, then continue straight up without deviations.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="10m"
name="Square Root (S)">A wandering face climb which finishes just to the right of Arapiles Crack. Start at the parallel grooves on the extreme right of the buttress. Climb up easily to about one-third height. Move diagonally across to the left side of the face, then finish directly. TR Reg Williams, 1967.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="10m"
name="Cube Root (C)">The most difficult route on the face. Climb the initial few metres of Square Root. Rather than traversing way out left, move left 1m then continue straight up through the middle of the "blocks". TR John Moore, 1967.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="10m"
name="Absurd">A steep route which takes in the line just left of the right-hand arete. Climb the initial 3m of Square Root. Continue up the steep face above, keeping left of the block and arete.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="1" length="4m"
name="Oblique Gully">This is the major cleft separating the main part of the buttress from the smaller section to the right. 1967.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="10" length="5m"
name="Victoria">Climb up the shattered hand-to-fist crack 5m right of Oblique Gully. TR Baxter, 1967.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="14" length="4m"
name="Una's Lock">The thin crack-line 10m right of Absurd. TR Baxter, Stranger, 1967.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="4m"
name="Natham">The lichen covered wall just right of Una's Lock. Very thin. TR John Moore, 1967.</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Castle Rock </text><text class="text" new="false"
number="null.">The most substantial piece of rock in the area is Castle Rock. This extends for a good 50m and provides a good scattering of grades - from easy 8's to ego testing 25's. Many of the routes ascend very steep rock, and in the Excalibur area the overhangs are testing for all. The buttresses are directly approached from Shadow Buttress by following the path to the top of the hill and crossing to the other side of the hill where it overlooks Risdon Vale.</text><image
new="false" noPrint="false" number="null."
src="RT_03_Castle.PNG" width="500">null</image><climb extra=""
grade="16" length="7m"
name="Palpitations (P)">A direct route up less than vertical rock above the tree at the base of the buttress. Start 2m left of Trembles. Surmount the initial scab to a ledge. Move slightly right then continue thinly up to the top. Quite testing for the grade. TR Reg Williams, 1967.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="12" length="7m"
name="Trembles (T)">One of the best of the easy climbs in the area. Climb the crack 3m left of the arete, finishing with some good (crux) moves on steep rock at the top.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="13" length="7m"
name="Trembles Arete (TA)">A direct route which takes in the arete to the immediate right of the normal route.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="7m"
name="Pumacillo (Pu)">A brilliant route up overhanging rock. Although it looks fairly easy, the moves are challenging. Start right of the arete between Trembles and Tiger Wall. Climb up (using the arete for balance) to the finger-crack. Continue up the overhanging face above by utilising the vertical crack as best you can - if you want to practice really shitty finger jams, then this is the climb for you!</climb><climb
extra="" grade="21" length="7m"
name="Pumacillo Variant">Start 2m right of the arete. Climb up a few metres until it is possible to move right into Tiger Wall Direct. Finish as for that line.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="6m"
name="Tiger Wall Direct (D)">A good steep route up the middle of the wall. Start on the block sticking out from the face. Continue straight up (before the "angle of the dangle" gets the better of you).</climb><climb
extra="" grade="14" length="6m"
name="Tiger Wall (Ti)">Start towards the right of the wall at the small bush. Follow the line of jugs and ledges diagonally leftwards across the face. Watch out for the lichen, especially if you're silly enough to attempt a solo of such a meagre route. 1966.</climb><text
class="text">After this route the cliff turns a corner to take on a northerly aspect. The corner provides the best ascent or descent route in the vicinity, although it is also possible to walk down to the left of Palpitations. There is no good access route between this corner and the other westerly end of Castle Wall, sixty metres to the right.</text><image
new="false" noPrint="false" number="null."
src="RT_04_Airmail.PNG" width="500">null</image><climb extra=""
grade="18" length="4m"
name="Gerry (G)">A reachy (read "height dependant") problem up a wall of lichen. Start 5m right of the corner and midway along the face. Gain the horizontal then use this to reach some small holds high up and hence the top.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="15" length="6m"
name="Sheoke Traverse (S)">A good (albeit rather uncommitting) solo, but difficult to top-rope or lead. Start just right of the platform at the base of the Gerry face. Climb up 2m to the start of the horizontal fracture. Follow this leftwards 3m, move up a little, then continue left to finish at the tree. Good fun.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="5m"
name="The Neb (N)">Rumour has it this climb was originally known as Jackson's Nose. Start just above the large tree and below a half-metre roof which sticks out from the otherwise nice looking face. Ascend the wall to the roof, then climb directly up the "nose" to finish. A classic line, though a little too strenuous to be enjoyable at the end of a day.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="4m"
name="Belfry Direct (B)">A mind-blowing problem which starts in the back of the cave 5m right of The Neb. Hang out from the cave to reach the first (creaking) holds just above the lip of the overhang. Hang free on these for the photos, then continue up any way you please.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="15" length="4m"
name="Dingbats (D)">Another good route. Step out from Belfry onto the sharp right-hand edge of the arete/cave. Climb up 3m then move right onto the face and the top. TR Stranger, 1967.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="13" length="5m"
name="Dingbats Direct">A variant on the original which eliminates the fun initial moves. Start below the bottomless corner. Use the good jugs and acrobatics to gain the edge of the cave, then continue as for the original line.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="23" length="5m"
name="Airmail Direct (AD)">A classic climb involving a sequence of opening moves which are much more horizontal than vertical. About 2m right of Dingbats Direct is a cave at ground level which is "plastered" with jugs on its roof. This it. Hang off the jugs to gain holds on the vertical face. Swing onto the face (crux) and continue up.</climb><text
class="text">The cliff then turns the corner into Letterbox Wall and adopts a westerly aspect.</text><climb
extra="" grade="15" length="5m"
name="Airmail (A)">Start at the foot of the left extremity of the Letterbox wall. Under-cling out left on the flake to the arete between the two faces. Follow the exposed front of this to the top (a metre or so right of Dingbats). 1966.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="4m"
name="Dead Letter (DL)">Start midway between the corner and the tree to the right. Ascend the face on small holds.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="10" length="4m"
name="Letterbox">They don't come easier than this! Start at the large tree. Climb directly up the wall past a number of pockets then follow the stairway of holds to the top.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="4" length="3m"
name="Twilight Climb">The obvious corner to the right of Letterbox. The climb is very seldom done in its own right, but is often used as an ascent/descent route for experienced climbers. 1967.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="8m"
name="Needle">This climb (also known as Side Salad) starts 8m right of the corner in the cave (which provides excellent amplification for ghetto-blasters if your feel like invading the serenity of the experience). Climb the right-hand edge of the cave to its top. Move up a bit, then follow the diagonal line of weakness upwards right. 1967.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="3" length="8m"
name="Teddy Bear Traverse">Start as for the Needle. After leaving the cave, traverse right into the obvious crack of Excalibur Direct. Finish up this. 1967.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="12" length="8m"
name="Excalibur">A good route, but the direct version is recommended. Start on the extreme right of the cave at ground level. Traverse right 2m into the striking crack, then follow the jugs to the top. Although the jugs are plentiful and huge, the slight overhang makes the crack reasonably strenuous if time is spent exploring its features.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="20" length="8m"
name="Vegies Wall">A classic face route up steep rock. Start below the scab of rock, midway between the cave and Excalibur. Ascend the scab, then continue straight up on increasingly thin holds.</climb><image
new="false" noPrint="false" number="null." src="RT_05_Seems.PNG"
width="500">null</image><climb extra="" grade="17" length="8m"
name="Excalibur Direct (ED)"
stars=" ** ">Without doubt this is "the way" to do Excalibur. Start directly below the fist crack. Surmount the bottomless corner, then follow the crack to the top. Strenuous for the grade. TR Reg Williams, 1967.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="8m" name="Lancelot (L)"
stars=" * ">A good fun route, especially for spectators watching their comrades peel off the lower section and pendu-plummeting into the tree. Start 2m right of Excalibur Direct, at the back of, and under, the roof. Climb the hand-crack in the corner, then traverse out left along the horizontal. Reach for the lower sections of the Excalibur crack, then move back right over the roof to follow the jugs on the face above.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="M1" length="8m" name="Damocles" new="false"
number=""
stars="">A delightful route over a series of small roofs above the large cave to the right of Excalibur. Start from the top of the fallen block 5m right of Excalibur Direct (and where "calligraphy" on the block indicates the love locals have for the rock-climbing fraternity). Commence with a RURP in a thin vertical crack at arms length, then peg up the overhangs using convenient cracks. FA J.Moore, R.Williams, 1967.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="27" length="8m"
name="Merlin the Magician">Climbs the stepped roof left of Seams. Grant Rowbottom (TR) Oct 96.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="25" length="8m" name="Seams Direct (SD)"
stars=" * ">A great route. Start in the middle of the 4m long block. Reach up for a couple of good hand holds then swing your feet onto the rock. Move upwards to the horizontal crack below the first roof. Continue on with a slight rightwards trend past the second roof, the third roof, and so on. Join Seams just below the top and finish as for that route.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="20" length="8m"
name="Funky Chicken (FC)">A classic which is more horizontal then vertical - not due of a overhangs, but because it involves 8m of height gain and a 10m traverse. Start in the corner as for Slavery. Climb up 3m, then move left across to a good hand ledge and foot smears. Keep traversing into and through the corner (crux), to finish directly just past the corner. The climb is difficult to top-rope (and even more difficult to lead) but worth the effort. Why bother with bungee-jumping when you have this!</climb><climb
extra="" grade="15" length="8m"
name="Capon (C)">A rather easy but nonetheless inspiring climb which again involves a huge traverse. The climb is identical to Funky Chicken but executes the traverse at a higher level (the feet are where the hands were previously). Another classic not to be missed.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="8m"
name="Seams (S)">A rather classy little climb up steep rock. Climb the first few metres of Slavery. Move left and upwards 2m past a series of flakes and pockets until below the final roof. Move directly over this (crux) to finish.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="13" length="6m"
name="Slavery (SL)">A good beginners first day route which is steep. Start in the corner, about 7m right of Excalibur. Climb directly to an under-cling flake. Move left slightly, then straight up to the top.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="15" length="4m"
name="Flying (F)">This climb is rather out of character with the rest of the climbs on the buttress. This short "one move wonder" is not worth bothering with given the abundance of quality routes in the area. Start in the middle of the face immediately right of the Slavery corner. Climb up to a ledge at half height, then up thinly to an under-cling finish.</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">The Managerie</text><text
class="text">The isolated boulder situated 100m below Castle Walls is known as The Menagerie. There are a couple of boulder problems on it.</text><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Lone Tower</text><text
class="text">About 200m west from Castle Walls is Lone Tower. It can also be approached from Shadow Buttress. The buttress is characterised by a sloping tree at its base and the half-metre overlap which runs across its length.</text><image
new="false" noPrint="false" number="null."
src="RT_06_Lone_Tower.PNG" width="500">null</image><climb
extra="" grade="12" length="6m"
name="Pythagoras">Behind the tower and to its left is a short, gently sloping wall which is broken by a ledge at half height. Climb it. Christie, 1967.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="9" length="4m"
name="Archimedes (A)">To the left of the main face is a short, clay covered gully. Climb the broken crack above this. Douglas, 1967.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="14" length="7m"
name="Principle (P)">Start on the left-hand edge of the face 1m right of the arete. Climb up to the sloping ledge, then follow the curving crack to the top. TR Terry, 1967.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="7m"
name="Orient Express (O)">A difficult route up the middle of the face. Climb up to the ledge, then follow the steep crack to the overlap. Trend left past this then straight on to the top.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="7m"
name="Eureka (E)">Towards the right-hand end of the face and just left of the tree is a series of thin, broken cracks. Move up these and the face to the overlap. Surmount this, then continue up the crack on the left to the top. 1967.</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">The Bastille</text><text
class="text">About 300m right of Lone Tower and 100m left of Shadow Buttress is The Bastille. This small face has a few decent routes on it which are worth trying, though they hardly warrant "classic" status. Access to the buttress is easiest by walking around the hill from Shadow Buttress.</text><image
new="false" noPrint="false" number="null."
src="RT_07_Bastille.PNG" width="500">null</image><climb extra=""
grade="15" length="4m"
name="Creep">Start on the extreme left of the buttress, on the corner of the main face. Climb the initial blocky section, then ascend the steep face above. Surmounting the top is the crux of the climb.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="7m"
name="Pullman (P)">Start 2m left of Drool. Climb straight up the broken face, and again experience the pleasure of mounting the top.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="7m"
name="Drool (D)">A good route up steep rock. Start directly below the thin crack bisecting the upper half of the face. Move easily up to the crack, then continue up with either finêssé and balance or a dyno.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="12" length="7m"
name="Bastille Crack (B)">Climb up to the start of the leftwards trending crack on the extreme right of the face. Continue up this to the top. 1967.</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Shadow Buttress</text><text
class="text">The other beaut little buttress of the crag is Shadow Buttress. This buttress is the first one approached when walking up from the cars and contains several fine lines - Rudolf, Parasite, Donner, Blitzen and Precision Wall to name a few. It also offers relief from the sun on hot summer days.</text><image
new="false" noPrint="false" number="null."
src="RT_08_Shadow_A.PNG" width="500">null</image><climb extra=""
grade="8" length="5m"
name="Matterhorn (M)">Climb the easy angled face on the left side of the East Wall. The hardest and steepest moves are found at the top.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="5m"
name="East Wall (E)">Quite a tough little route. Climb directly up the front of the first significant buttress on the left. Oct 84.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="11" length="3m"
name="Thunderbolt (T)">Worthless. Follow the hand-crack up the face. The only difficulty comes in trying to surmount the dirty top.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="5" length="4m"
name="Scholtz's Chimney (S)">This climb has as much going for it as its neighbour to the left. Ascend the chimney, moving out from its depths to pass the block at the top.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="17" length="4m"
name="Bastinado (B)">Start awkwardly on the left of the chimney. Move right across the chimney and ascend the face 1m right of the chimney on small holds. 1967.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="4m"
name="Kennedy's Wall (K)">Climb the face and thin discontinuous cracks 3m right of the chimney.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="15" length="4m"
name="Cling to the Crest">Start below the crest a few metres left of Thread belay Cracks. Climb up to the corner crack, then follow this to the top. Pass directly over the block at the top. TR Douglas, 1967.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="5m"
name="Jingle (J)">Climb directly up the wall to the immediate left of Thread belay Cracks. The climbing is thin but not unduly steep.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="11" length="6m"
name="Thread belay Cracks (Tc)">Climb up the broken cracks to the immediate left of Rudolf. Finish up the hand-crack through the overhang. 1967.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="6m"
name="Rudolf Variant">Start 1m left of the normal route. Ascend the even more overhanging face, with difficulties again at the level of the nose. Strenuous and sustained climbing.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="6m"
name="Rudolf (R)">Probably "the" classic of the buttress. Follow the line of jugs up the overhanging line to the loose flake. Move straight up past this (crux) then on to the top. TR Reg Williams, 1967.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="20" length="6m"
name="Afterglow">Start 4m right of Rudolf toward the back of the chimney. Climb up for 2m, then move diagonally leftwards across the red rock to finish a couple of metres right of Rudolf.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="4" length="8m"
name="Beginners Chimney (BC)">What a breeze! Climb the obvious chimney the only difficulty is deciding which holds to use!</climb><text
class="text">A good traverse can be made leftwards from the Beginner's Chimney. The first moves across to Rudolf are fairly technical, but not committing. Continue past Jingle and the like, finishing somewhere near the East Wall.</text><image
new="false" noPrint="false" number="null."
src="RT_09_Shadow_B.PNG" width="500">null</image><climb extra=""
grade="12" length="8m"
name="Santa">Climb the right wall of the chimney, about 2m left of Parasite. Good value.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="14" length="8m"
name="Parasite (P)">A very nice route and, surprisingly, quite leadable. Start below the large flake. Follow this up to the vertical crack, then follow this to the top. Protection is thin but adequate. TR Mike Douglas, 1966.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="8m"
name="Donner (D)">Climb the face between Parasite and Blitzen without deviating into either. Very contrived, but nonetheless, when the rope is already set-up for one of the other climbs...why not?</climb><climb
extra="" grade="16" length="8m"
name="Blitzen (B)">A very nice problem. Holds are a bit sparse, but if you search them out they're always where needed. Climb up the face past the block and to the left of the arete. Pass the overhang at the top on its left.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="20" length="8m"
name="Collision (C)">This climb, originally graded 17, has now become more difficult due to some holds falling off. Climb directly up to the half metre overhang. Climb straight over it (crux) to finish directly.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="15" length="8m"
name="Precision Wall (Pw)">Climb the face midway between Collision and the crack. Sustained for its length. Another classic route. 1966.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="13" length="8m"
name="Precision Wall Variant">Climb the crack to the right of the normal route. Beginners often get into some most unusual positions near the top.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="7m"
name="Precision Face">Ascend the slab between the crack and the deep cleft on the right-hand side of the wall. Fairly technical, albeit a bit dirty at the top.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="14" length="7m"
name="Funicular Cracks (F)">Climb the crack 1m left of the tree. After reaching the ledge near the top, continue on to finish if you're good enough.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="19" length="7m"
name="Golliwog Wall">Ascend the wall to the right of the Funicular Cracks and 1m right of the tree. 1967.</climb><text
class="heading3" new="false"
number="null.">Omega Rocks</text><text
class="text">The Omega Rocks are located to the right of Shadow Buttress. At present, lichen has encroached on the climbs due to lack of traffic, but the efforts of a few climbers would soon change this. The rocks are fairly small, but still offer some worthwhile climbing up thin faces and over some good overhangs. They are definitely worth a look when the novelty of the classics wear off.</text><climb
extra="" grade="15" length="4m"
name="Hibernation">A short and pleasant enough little problem on the second buttress from the left. Climb up the corner to the roof. Pass to the right of this and finish. 1967.</climb><climb
extra="" grade="18" length="4m" name="Cobweb Crack">A fairly technical problem 2m right of Hibernation. Climb up the thin crack to the hollow scoop at two-thirds height. Continue on easily to the top. 1967.</climb></guide>
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