Page History

<guide>
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  <header id="62" walk="5-15 minutes" sun="Morning" rock="Volcanic" acknowledgement="By Ben Thorp" intro="Doctors Rocks is an excellent little bouldering area spread around a headland only 10 minutes drive from Burnie.  The dark volcanic boulders appear to be a kind of horizontally striated dolerite similiar to Hillwood formed in large round boulders that are perfect for bouldering.  The jumbled boulders cling to the headland creating a few access and landing issues but it&apos;s all part of the fun here.  The overhanging nature of many of the problems makes for physically difficult starts followed by easier but high topouts.  The rock can be a little brittle so watch out for holds that may snap, especially on the top-outs.    There are still several hard projects to do here as well as many problems on the ocean side of the boulders.  These have been avoided so far due to the water landings but many may be do-able in deep water solo style when the tide and swell is right." history="This area was developed in October/November 2011 by Ben Thorp and Darius Khadembashi." name="Doctors Rocks" access="Doctors Rocks is well signposted and is just before the turn-off to Wynyard if coming from Burnie.  The best way to access the boulders is by taking a circuit around the headland either East-West or West-East depending on the tide.  The tide is an ever present factor here and generally to get the best out of the area it is best to go around low tide.  If the tide is on the way out it is better to start at Mordor which is least affected by the tide and head around as the tide recedes to the other areas, The Beach is the most tide affected.  If the tide is coming in do the reverse.  Many of the boulders are not affected by the tide at all and a high-tide visit is still worthwhile.  On certain problems, the slow increment of the water under the jumbled boulders as the tide comes in can create a pleasant aesthetic, something akin to a Japanese water garden. "/>
  <text id="5" class="heading2">Mordor</text>
  <image id="9" src="DSCF2105.JPG" width="600" height="385"/>
  <text id="6">The first area you will come to walking from the East. A good selection of problems with easy access. This area is popular with fisherpeople who don't seem to mind the presence of boulderers.</text>
  <image id="10" src="Ruby right boulder.jpg" width="500" height="375"/>
  <problem id="11" stars="*" number="1" name="Ruby Right" grade="V2" extra="(SDS)" fa="Dr Jorji">Start on low holds and pop for the jug with the aid of a heelhook. Easy from there.</problem>
  <image id="13" src="Tramp stamp boulder.jpg" width="500" height="375"/>
  <problem id="14" stars="**" number="1" name="Tramp Stamp" grade="V4" extra="(SDS)">Sit-start in the two pockets then up the face.</problem>
  <problem id="15" number="2" grade="V0" extra="(SDS)">Straight up the arete.</problem>
  <problem id="16" number="3" grade="VE" extra="(Stand)">The easy face is quite nice.</problem>
  <image id="18" src="Bro code boulder.jpg" width="500" height="375"/>
  <problem id="19" stars="***" number="1" name="Bro Code" extra="(Hang)" grade="V7">Start left hand in the vertical slot and right on the lowest pinch. Pop to the next pinch then to the crimp out left then a big move to the highest crimp with the right. Poor feet make this problem pretty hard.</problem>
  <problem id="20" number="2" name="Broner" grade="V6" extra="(SDS)">Sit start on the arête and head up rightwards using the left most crimp on Bro Code. Finish just to the left of Bro Code.</problem>
  <problem id="21" number="3" grade="V2" extra="(SDS)">Up the arête.</problem>
  <image id="27" src="Traverse boulder.jpg" width="400" height="354"/>
  <problem id="24" number="1" stars="*" grade="V2" extra="(SDS)">Sit start on the right and follow the break right round the boulder to top out up the back.</problem>
  <problem id="25" number="2" grade="V3" extra="(Highball, SDS)">Straight up the right arête.</problem>
  <problem id="26" number="3" extra="(Highball, Stand)" grade="V1">Start in the break and top-out up the slab.</problem>
  <image id="29" src="Neuralgia boulder.jpg" width="400" height="368"/>
  <problem id="30" stars="**" number="1" name="Neuralgia" grade="V6" extra="(SDS)">An eliminate but a natural one. Avoid the circled jug complex. Sit-start at the lowest part of the boulder, right hand on a bad sloper in the roof. Pull on and bump to a higher sloper, left hand to the sloper on the lip (just to the right of the circle), then head up right. Nice flowing moves.</problem>
  <problem id="31" number="2" grade="V0" extra="(Hang)">Start on the jugs and up.</problem>
  <text id="32" class="text">Between Mordor and the main area in the middle of the boulder field there are some individual problems:</text>
  <image id="33" src="Unnamed.jpg" width="200" height="300"/>
  <problem id="34" number="1" grade="V5" extra="(Hang)">Start on undercling then up left arête.</problem>
  <text id="36" class="heading2">Emergency Medicine Area</text>
  <text id="37">This area has a good concentration of problems and a few hard projects still to be completed. The area can be accessed directly by walking over the headland.</text>
  <image id="38" src="Osteopathy boulder.jpg" width="400" height="300"/>
  <problem id="39" number="1" name="Frontier Podiatrist" extra="(Highball, Stand)" grade="V1" fa="K. Bolton">Straight up the centre of the face.</problem>
  <problem id="40" number="2" name="Osteopathy" extra="(Highball, SDS)" grade="V5" stars="**">Sit-start at the base of the triangular white wall. Up using crimpers on the face and left arête to reach a jug at the apex of the triangle. From here either head straight for some excitement or cut right to traverse off.</problem>
  <image id="41" src="Loop of Henle.jpg" width="300" height="400"/>
  <problem id="42" stars="*" number="1" name="Loop of Henle" extra="(Highball)" grade="V3">Start round the corner on the jugs, loop round the bottom of the boulder then an awkward move on to the slab which is climbed to the top. Final move a little trickier than you would like in that position.</problem>
  <image id="43" src="Emergency medicine.jpg" width="300" height="400" legend="false" legendTitle="">
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  <problem id="44" stars="***" number="1" name="Emergency Medicine" grade="V4" extra="(Highball, SDS)">Awesome highball arête. Follow the tufa feature up the arête using a small pocket on the face to gain the jugs just below the lip. Careful on the top-out.</problem>
  <problem id="63" stars="***" extra="(Highball, Stand)" number="2" name="Rising Tide" length="" grade="V2" fa="">Brilliant face climbing straight up the middle of highball face. A piker's variant can be done by exiting out left mid-height (V2).</problem>
  <image id="45" src="DSCF2066.JPG" width="400" height="300"/>
  <text id="47">Huge project out the cave and up the headwall. V11/12 range. Landing needs a big crew with pads to protect it.</text>
  <text id="48">Just west of the Emergency Medicine area there are two quality problems together in a small depression created by the jumbled boulders:</text>
  <image id="49" src="Tidal pressure.jpg" width="400" height="300"/>
  <problem id="50" stars="**" number="1" name="Tidal Pressure" extra="(SDS)" grade="V6">Start on the furthest left jug. Traverse the face avoiding reaching over the lip for jugs. Top-out up the headwall. Quite pumpy. With the tide coming in the water will slowly creep up the landing and this can create some added time pressure.</problem>
  <image id="52" src="Pinky.jpg" width="300" height="400"/>
  <problem id="51" stars="**" number="1" name="Pinky" extra="(Highball, SDS)" grade="V4">Sit start just above the water, climb up the steepish face using a triangular hold in the centre and a right sidepull. Finish up the highball slab. Very good.</problem>
  <text id="53" class="heading2">The Beach</text>
  <text id="54">This is the furthest area to the west. This area is the most effected by the tide - all these problems will have submerged landings at high tide.</text>
  <image id="55" src="West end problem.jpg" width="300" height="400"/>
  <problem id="56" number="1" grade="V1" extra="(SDS)">Nice little sit-start problem.</problem>
  <image id="57" src="Highball boulder west end.jpg" width="400" height="300"/>
  <problem id="58" number="1" grade="V3" extra="(Highball, Stand)"/>
  <problem id="59" number="2" grade="V2" extra="(Highball, Stand)"/>
  <problem id="60" number="3" grade="V1" extra="(Highball, Stand)"/>
  <guide/>
  <problem id="61" number="4" name="Don&apos;t be a Darius" extra="(Highball, Stand)" grade="V2" fa="D.Khadembashi"/>
  <guide/>
</guide>