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Guide
<guide guidestars="**" pagesize="1500" version="2"><header>
  <header access="All the climbs on the (south) Sunny Side of the Gorge can be accessed from the Zig-Zag track, which starts at the soute side of Kings Bridge. Park in the Penny Royal car-park, just before the bridge. See the sketch map for an idea of how to get to the buttresses. " acknowledgement="by Michael Fox, originally published in Craglets" history="" intro="Climbing in Launceston used to happen mainly in the Gorge area which is 10 minutes walk from the centre of town however it now also includes the whole of the South Esk. As with most of Tassie, a lot of the climbing is on dolerite crags, in cracks and corners, occasionally branching out on to the faces and aretes. This section of the guide has only been possible thanks to the input of the local climbing community. That being said it is everyone’s responsibility to ensure editors are supplied accurate and up to date information. If you spot inaccuracies, let us know and we’ll fix them, if you’re not prepared to do this don’t complain about the product!  As such this is a ragtag collection of gossip and innuendo and should be treated as such. A lot of these routes haven’t been done by yours truly so I can’t vouch for their grades, quality or even give them a character reference. A lot of the routes are not even known by names except as “that 19 left of...”. In these cases I made up names for them because I got sick of writing “left of the 19...”. Such climbs are marked with a #. Climbers have worked closely with the Launceston City Council who are concerned about safety for climbers and walkers. To ensure continued access to the cliffs climbers have negotiated a Code of Conduct with the council. See http://www.launceston.tas.gov.au/upload/3819/conduct.pdf for a copy. A basic summary of this appears below and it will improve our chances of continuing to climb in the Gorge if you can follow them…. Don’t act like a dickhead! Be nice to the trees, animals, tourists and plants. If you have to scrub a new route for hours before it’s climbable then don’t bother as it will probably be covered in lichen again after the winter. Routes directly above the “Tourist Track” must be adequately protected to ensure the safety of the non-climbing public. Let people know what you are doing (nobody wants a climber plummeting onto them out of the blue!). Fixed anchors should be current best practice with the use of corrosive metals and “carrots” considered sub-standard. All routes (including gear routes) above Tourist Tracks must have double lower off bolts (this protects vegetation and eliminates the risk of dislodging stones while scrambling down off climbs). For current information contact Ian Ferrier at Mountain Designs in York St, Launceston. There is no intention to deter bold climbing or tell people when and where to bolt, but all climbers should understand that this is an access issue and that there is much rock away from tourist areas. The Gorge is the most popular climbing area in Launceston, it is broken into two areas. The Shady Side and the Sunny Side. Simple hey! Obviously climb on the Shady Side on hot sunny days and on the Sunny Side any other time. Be Safe. Be Good and ... use ‘adequate protection’." name="Cataract Gorge - Sunny Side" rock="Short vertical dolerite buttresses. Mostly trad routes, but some bolts." sun="All day sun" walk="1-15 min" id="1"/><image camping="" autonumber="true"/>
  <image noPrint="false" src="Launceston Area Access Map.png" width="" id="2"/><image height="653"/>
  <image noPrint="false" src="Launceston_Zigzag.PNG" width="700" id="3" height="1175">null</image><textimage>
  <text class="heading3" id="4">Seif Buttress</text><texttext>
  <text class="text" id="5">Access- see map. The first major (8m) pinnacle that you come to on the uphill side of the zig-zag track. Beware the large flake on the right has been known to move. DBB on top.</text><climbtext>
  <climb extra="" grade="19" length="8m" name="Miff-Take" id="6" fa="Thomas, McMahon, Ling, 1980." number="1.">Up the face on the front of the pinnacle to the horizontal break and then left to the crack. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="20" length="8m" name="Arête Direct" number="2." stars="" id="7" fa="Parsons (solo), 1982.">Start in yellow open book corner, up to horizontal break and then up arête. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="8m" name="Seif" id="8" fa="McMahon, McHugh, 1972. " number="3.">From back right-hand edge of pinnacle traverse left to hand crack and up. Various combinations of these have been done including a traverse around the whole pinnacle at the level of the horizontal break (about 22).</climb><textclimb>
  <text class="heading3" id="9">Trackside Buttress</text><texttext>
  <text class="text" id="10">Access- see map. The largest piece of climbable rock right beside the track. The first ascentionists are long forgotten but it still makes an excellent place to start climbing with a lot of the routes off the vertical. Bolt belays on top.</text><climbtext>
  <climb extra="" grade="12" length=" 8m" name="Tree Route" number="4." stars="**" id="11">The hand-sized crack on the left-hand end. A great start to your jamming career.</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="12" length="8m" name="Companion Corner" id="12" number="5.">Corner to 2m right of the Tree Route.</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="10m" name="Apron Slab" stars=" * " id="13" number="6.">The left trending line of underclings.</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="10m" name="Centre Corner" id="14" number="7.">What else</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="12" length="10m" name="Fern Crack" id="15" number="8.">The crack 3m right of Centre Corner.</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="19" length="8m" name="Nark" id="16" number="9.">The next arete right of Fern Crack.</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="8m" name="Tremulo" id="17" number="10.">Boulder problem start in the shallow corner near the end of the buttress.</climb><textclimb>
  <text class="text" id="18">Lots of boulder problems and traverses also exist in this area.</text><texttext>
  <text class="heading3" id="19">Uphill Buttress</text><texttext>
  <text class="text" id="20">Access- scramble up from the downstream end of Track Side Buttress. The climbs start around the corner on the downstream side and are 6-8m high.</text><climbtext>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" name="Jamal" id="21" fa="McMahon, McHugh, 1972." number="11.">The off-width. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" name="H-Block" id="22" fa="Parsons, Grant, Moore, 1978." number="12.">Bulging hand crack to off-width. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="23" name="Felodese" id="23" fa="Ng, 1990." number="13.">Up face with single bolt. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="15" name="Serafino" id="24" fa="McMahon, McHugh, 1972." number="14.">The off-width to chimney on the front of the buttress. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="25" name="Mini Mayhem" id="25" fa="Parsons, Carrigan, 1982." number="15.">Face climbing to a thin crack 3m right of Serafino. DBB. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="20" name="Zoot" stars=" ** " id="26" fa="Thomas, McMahon, Ling, 1980." number="16.">Boulder problem start to gain access to the finger crack. DBB. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" name="Speransky" id="27" number="17.">The crack on the right hand side of the buttress.</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="2Þ" grade="17" length="8m" name="Waiting for Kate" number="18." stars="" id="28" fa="Dennis Kearnes, Kate Tasker 4 Nov 2009.">On the face uphill and to the right of Speransky with 2 FH. </climb><textclimb>
  <text class="heading3" id="29">Offal Buttress</text><texttext>
  <text class="text" id="30">Access- see map. Basically down hill from Trackside. Beware of the fervid abseilers. DBB on top.</text><climbtext>
  <climb extra="" grade="22" length="15m" name="Blue No More" id="31" fa="McMahon, Smith, 19811981." number="19.">On the left hand end off the cliff 6m from Pelvic Thrust is a flaring corner. Up this to thin seam which widens to a hand crack. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="21" length="18m" name="Pelvic Thrust" stars=" * " id="32" fa="Fantini, McMahon, 1981." number="20.">Thin crack to FH and small roof and then out left to final crack. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="23" length="18m" name="Free Passage" id="33" fa="Fantini, Smith, 1981." number="21.">Start 4m right of Pelvic Thrust and climb the face/crack to a ledge. Step left to the hand/finger crack. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="20" length="18m" name="Offal" id="34" fa="McHugh, McMahon, 1972." number="22.">The blood spilling off-width. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="22" length="18m" name="Offal Diagonal" id="35" fa="Parsons, 1982." number="23.">Start up Offal and then at the ledge go out the right diagonal crack. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="23" length="25m" name="Blockbuster Traverse" id="36" fa="Narkowicz, McMahon, 1985." number="24.">Start from the ledge on Blue No More across Pelvic Thrust and Free Passage then finishing up Offal Diagonal. Initially climbed with a piton knocked in with a blockbuster. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="13" length="16m" name="Knacker" id="37" fa="McMahon (solo), 1972." number="25.">The chimney around the corner formed by the back of the Pelvic Thrust block. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="15" length="15m" name="Morte D'&apos;Arthur" id="38" fa="McMahon, Madden, Smith, 1981." number="26.">The next chimney. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="23" length="14m" name="Saved" stars=" ** " id="39" fa="Narkowicz, Focken, 1985." number="27.">Thin face climbing with very little gear. Next to the descent track 5m uphill from Morte D'Arthur. </climb><textclimb>
  <text class="text" id="40">Below Offal Buttress there is a series of small faces with potential for some new (but "diminutive") routes.</text><texttext>
  <text class="heading3" id="41">Shimmy Sheister Buttress</text><texttext>
  <text class="text" id="42">Access- see map. Just upstream and downhill from Trackside. Easy to get to by abseiling from the eye-bolts.</text><climbtext>
  <climb extra="" grade="20" length="8m" name="Long Ago And Best Forgotten" id="43" fa="McMahon, solo, 1976 1976." number="28.">The thin crack on the left. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="10m" name="Looking for the Heart" id="44" fa="Parsons, Best, 1976." number="29.">Flaring groove and crack. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="3Þ" grade="23" length="10m" name="Waiting for Bobo" number="30." stars="**" id="45" fa="Fisher, Selby, 1996.">And we still are. 3 eye-bolts. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="19" length="9m" name="Pool Shooting Shimmy Sheister" id="46" fa="Thomas, 1980." number="31.">Finger crack on the right. </climb><textclimb>
  <text class="heading3" id="47">Nighthawks Buttress</text><texttext>
  <text class="text" id="48">Access- scramble downhill and upstream from Shimmy Sheister buttress or go uphill and downstream from the top of the Mick Loves Anne face. All roads lead to Rome.</text><climbtext>
  <climb extra="4Þ" grade="27" length="13m" name="Rising Gorge" number="32." stars="" id="49" fa="Fisher, 1996.">Another excellent job of undergrading by John who initially gave it 24. Line of 4 eye-bolts. DBB. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="10m" name="Nighthawks" stars=" * " id="50" fa="Thomas, McMahon, 1980" number="33.">Jamming up hand and fist crack on the front of the buttress. For the aficionados of the jam. </climb><textclimb>
  <text class="heading3" id="51">Trench-Foot Face</text><texttext>
  <text class="text" id="52">Access- Just downhill and slightly upstream from Nighthawks is a separate face</text><climbtext>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="10m" name="Trench-Foot" id="53" fa="Parsons, Schmidt, 1976." number="34.">Lay away up thin crack to gain hand crack. </climb><textclimb>
  <text class="text" id="54">The face to the right of Trench-Foot has been top-roped at somewhere between 17  and 19 depending what hold has most recently broken off.</text><climbtext>
  <climb extra="" grade="15" length="8m" name="A Man'&apos;s Drink" id="55" fa="Smith (solo), 1981." number="35.">The crack behind the tree on the pillar 10m downhill from Trench-Foot. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="8m" name="A Man'&apos;s Second Drink" id="56" fa="Smith, 1981." number="36.">5m around the corner from A Man's Drink is a line of thin flakes leading up to a hand crack. </climb><text.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="57">Mickey Loves Anne Face</text><texttext>
  <text class="text" id="58">Access- From half-way down the descent track on the upstream side of Offal buttress walk upstream for 50m to a small clump of she-oaks. Abseil from the DBB behind these to the base of the cliff, approximately 12m, which is recognisable by the painted pierced heart. Alternatively scramble upstream 50m from the base of Offal. Multiple bolt belays on top.</text><climbtext>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="8m" name="The Rain in Spain" id="59" fa="Parsons, Shields, 1975." number="37.">The left hand-crack 3m from Choking the Chicken. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="3Þ" grade="22" length="10m" name="Choking the Chicken" number="38." stars="**" id="60" fa="Fisher, Fox, 1995.">Or 24 for the vertically challenged. The arete with 3 eye-bolts. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="20" length="10m" name="Pickpocket" stars=" * " id="61" fa="Ellenburger, K.Smith, 1975. Fantini, Smith, McMahon, 1981." number="39.">Corner and thin crack 2m right of Choking The Chicken. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="10m" name="Small Change" id="62" fa="Smith, McMahon, 1981." number="40.">Up crack, bulges and blocks. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="20" length="10m" name="Crab Spread" stars=" * " id="63" fa="Fife, Narkowicz, 1982." number="41.">Up face to eye-bolt and rusty old piton then to crack above. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="22" length="12m" name="Fruit of the Spirit" stars=" * " id="64" fa="Narkowicz, 1982." number="42.">The crack 3m left of Dead Zone up to a hollow block then 2 eye-bolts on the face above. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="20" length="12m" name="Dead Zone" stars=" *** " id="65" fa="Fantini, Smith,1981." number="43.">Thin crack starting from sloping ledge. The big jug finish and associated large block at the top of dead zone no longer exist. Be aware the finishing moves pulling over the top may now be significantly harder.

</climb><textclimb>
  <text class="heading3" id="66">Saturday Night Buttress</text><texttext>
  <text class="text" id="67">Access- see map. Abseil in, bolt belays on top.</text><climbtext>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="10m" name="Change My Tune" stars=" * " id="68" fa="McMahon, Thomas, 1980." number="44.">The main hand crack on the left. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="10m" name="Stopping on the Red" stars=" * " id="69" fa="Ellenburger, K.Smith, 1975." number="45.">2m right of Change My Tune. </climb><climb.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="10m" name="Zoo'&apos;s Face" id="70" fa="Thomas (solo), 1981." number="46.">The face 2m right of Stopping On The Red. No gear worth stopping for. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="14" length="10m" name="Cue Ball Head" id="71" fa="McMahon, Thomas,1980. " number="47.">The broken crack line 4m upstream of Stopping On The Red. </climb><textclimb>
  <text id="295">The face right of Cue Ball Head is another top rope route at about 17.</text><climbtext>
  <climb extra="" grade="10" length="8m" name="Burgundy Sky" id="72" fa="McMahon, Thomas, 1980." number="48.">The next corner. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="8m" name="Fly By Night" id="73" fa="Thomas, Keenan, McMahon, 1981." number="49.">The last climb before the off-width corner. Up corner to block at the top. Harder than it looks. </climb><textclimb>
  <text class="heading3" id="74">Foam Pinnacle</text><texttext>
  <text class="text" id="75">Access- Walk 30m up the ramp from Deadzone on the Mickey Loves Anne face. It's most use is for finding the access to Riverside Buttress</text><climbtext>
  <climb extra="" grade="14" length="10m" name="Foam" id="76" fa="McMahon (solo), 1980." number="50.">The crack. </climb><textclimb>
  <text class="heading3" id="77">Riverside Buttress</text><texttext>
  <text class="text" id="78">Access- Abseil in from the trees 10m below the Foam Pinnacle or scramble down the upstream side of Foam Pinnacle, best done at low tide.</text><climbtext>
  <climb extra="" grade="23" length="10m" name="Innocent Bystander" id="79" fa="Smart, McMahon, 1982." number="51.">Thin crack up to steel spike. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="10m" name="Bad Mouth" id="80" fa="McMahon, Smart, 1982." number="52.">The off-width on the arete. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="19" length="10m" name="Fugitive" id="81" fa="McMahon, Smart, 1982." number="53.">Corner 5m upstream from Bad Mouth. </climb><text.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="82">Pygmy Possum Buttress</text><texttext>
  <text class="text" id="83">Access- From Foam Pinnacle walk upstream and uphill for 40m or alternatively drop down from the upstream end of Saturday Night Buttress. The climbs on Pygmy Possum Buttress are almost 30m long and are some of the longest climbs in the Gorge.</text><climbtext>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="27m" name="Thylacine" number="54." stars="" id="84" fa="McMahon, Mohler, 1981.">Left hand off-width to hand crack then on to the face of the top pillar. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="25m" name="Pygmy Possum" stars=" ** " id="85" fa="McHugh, McMahon, 1972." number="55.">A difficult start up thin crack and corner before easing to hand jams. Continue up crack above. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="25m" name="Schmidt Variant" id="86" fa="Schmidt." number="56.">Starts up Thylacine and then traverses on to Pygmy Possum after the off-width. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="10m" name="French Ethics" stars=" *** " id="87" fa="Fox, Bissett, French, 1997." number="57.">Scramble up the gully on the right of the Pygmy Possum Buttress to where it is possible to climb the arete/pillar with 3 eye-bolts and some natural gear (oh no) to a DBB. </climb><textclimb>
  <text class="heading3" id="88">On The Way Pinnacle</text><texttext>
  <text class="text" id="89">Access- Directly above Pygmy Possum Buttress on the uphill side of the track to Saturday Night Buttress.</text><climbtext>
  <climb extra="" grade="15" length="8m" name="On the Way" id="90" fa="McMahon (solo), 1980." number="58.">Pleasant climbing up the crack behind the tree. </climb><textclimb>
  <text class="heading3" id="91">Aqua-Slick Buttress</text><texttext>
  <text class="text" id="92">Right of Pygmy Possum Buttress and on the same level. Abseil in from DBB above.</text><climbtext>
  <climb extra="" grade="19" length="12m" name="Game of Chance" id="93" fa="McMahon, Mohler, 1981." number="59.">Start in cleft on the far left up to overlap and crack above. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="3Þ" grade="22" length="12m" name="Sunflower" number="60." stars="*" id="94" fa="Ng, McOwan, 1990.">Climb the arête 1m left of Aqua-Slick with 3 U-bolts. Good climbing though the crux is avoiding stepping into Aqua-Slick. DBB. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="10m" name="Aqua-Slick" id="95" fa="McMahon, Smith, 1980." number="61.">The hand crack just 1m right of Suflower. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="9" length="10m" name="Down to the Canvas" number="62." stars="" id="96" fa="McMahon, Smith, 1980.">The right-hand face and crack with a hard start. </climb><climb</climb>
  <climb extra="3Þ" grade="22" length="10m" name="McDonalds is Good!" number="63." stars="" id="97" fa="Bissett, 1998.">Line of 3 bolts right of Down to the Canvas. </climb><textclimb>
  <text class="heading3" id="98">Feltham Buttress</text><texttext>
  <text class="text" id="99">Access- see map. One of the most popular buttresses in the Gorge because of it's easy access and great variety of climbs.</text><climbtext>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="10m" name="Deal an Ace" id="100" fa="Parsons, 1976." number="64.">The first crack on the downstream end of the buttress. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="21" length="12m" name="The Night Dweller" stars=" *** " id="101" fa="Ng, 1989." number="65.">Face climbing up the left-hand line of 2 carrots. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="24" length="15m" name="Crossing Siva" id="102" fa="Fox, DeCesare, 2002." number="66.">Climb to the 2nd bolt of The Night Dweller and traverse right at that level crossing Third Rising at the 2nd bolt and then across to Feltham. Easier for the tall and easier going right to left. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="19" length="14m" name="Out of Date Route" stars=" ** " id="103" fa="Parsons (solo), 1982." number="67.">The face left of Westham with 2 carrots. Starts 2m left of Westham. A variant start on the block another 2m left goes at 17. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="14" length="14m" name="Westham" number="68." stars="**" id="104" fa="McMahon, Brooks High School, 1972 (Must have been crowded - Ed).">The classic corner/crack system. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="24" length="12m" name="Third Rising" stars="**" id="105" fa="Ng, 1990." number="69.">The orange face with 2 bolts and then exiting up the finger crack on the right. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="22" length="12m" name="Feinian" number="70." stars="*" id="106" fa="Ng, 1989.">Climb the arête right of Third Rising using the same bolts and finish as for that climb, but somehow avoiding Lingham all the way. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="14m" name="Lingham" stars=" *** " id="107" fa="McHugh, Schmidt, 1972." number="71.">Classic hand jamming. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="24" length="14m" name="Venom" number="72." stars="" id="108" fa="McMahon, 1988.">Wide arête 2m right of Lingham, this time avoiding going into either Lingham or Feltham! </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="14m" name="Feltham" stars=" * " id="109" fa="McMahon, Schmidt, 1972." number="73.">Up right trending ramp to block then back left to hand crack. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="14" length="12m" name="Smart Pig" id="110" fa="McMahon, Mason, 1973." number="74.">Just 4m around the corner from F.</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="15" length="12m" name="Pork Hunt" id="111" fa="McMahon, Mason, 1973." number="75.">Starts 2m right of Smart Pig up broken corner and off-width. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="15" length="10m" name="Cunningham" id="112" fa="McMahon, Brooks High School, 1972." number="76.">3m right of Pork Hunt go up crack through small roof. </climb><textclimb>
  <text class="text" id="113">The next few routes are on the upstream face of the buttress</text><climbtext>
  <climb extra="" grade="19" length="8m" name="Rasher" id="114" fa="Narkowicz, McMahon, 1981." number="77.">The thin crack past the rusty old piton. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="13" length="8m" name="Dog Poisoner" id="115" fa="I.Thomas, McMahon, 1981." number="78.">Take the left hand crack. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="12m" name="Jelly Boy" stars=" ** " id="116" fa="Kearnes, Fox, Decesare, 1998." number="79.">Climb face to single U-bolt, then up to flake and on to top. First bolt can be easily clipped from right before starting to avoid awkward fall. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="13" length="10m" name="Cunningham" id="117" fa="McMahon and Brooks High, 1972." number="80.">5m right of Jelly boy. Climb up to overlap and up crack on the right. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="8m" name="Hamurabi" id="118" fa="McMahon, I.Thomas, 1981." number="81.">The third of 3 cracks around the corner from Cunningham. Needs a clean. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="13" length="8m" name="Plummeting Jugs" id="119" fa="McMahon, Holmes, 1999." number="82.">The last corner. </climb><textclimb>
  <text class="text" id="120">Across the gully from Hamurabi is a small buttress with one climb.</text><climbtext>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="8m" name="Solitary" id="121" fa="McMahon, I.Thomas, 1981." number="83.">Thin corner with crack widening at the top. </climb><text</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="122">Porker Pinnacle</text><texttext>
  <text class="text" id="123">Access- The pinnacle at the base of Feltham. Abseil in from Feltham or scramble down on the downstream side.</text><climbtext>
  <climb extra="3Þ" grade="25" length="10m" name="Brazen Serpent" number="84." stars="***" id="124" fa="Ng, 1989.">A must for all! Arête with 3 eye-bolts to a DBB. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="10m" name="Porker" id="125" fa="McMahon, Smith, 1973." number="85.">Up behind block and then up left. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="8" length="10m" name="Cutlet" id="126" fa="McMahon, Mason, 1973." number="86.">Behind block and up right. </climb><textclimb>
  <text class="heading3" id="127">Erza Buttress</text><texttext>
  <text class="text" id="128">Access- Abseil from Porker Pinnacle to the water line.</text><climbtext>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="10m" name="Ezra" id="129" fa="McMahon, Mohler, 1982." number="87.">Starts at the bulge and then up to finger crack. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="13" length="10m" name="Raze" id="130" fa="Mohler, McMahon, 1982." number="88.">From hanging belay climb face and crack via steel bracket. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="10m" name="Raze Variant" id="131" fa="McMahon, 1982." number="89.">Avoid the steel bracket by going right. </climb><textclimb>
  <text class="heading3" id="132">Right Man Buttress</text><texttext>
  <text class="text" id="133">Access- See Map. Bolt belays.</text><climbtext>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="10m" name="The Wrong Man" stars=" ** " id="134" fa="Smith, Ling, McMahon, 1980." number="90.">The first hand crack of the downstream end of the buttress. An excellent jamming excursion. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="24" length="10m" name="Roxanne" id="135" fa="Ng, 90's&apos;s." number="91.">The face 1m right of the Wrong Man, up to an eye-bolt and then the thin crack. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="25" length="9m" name="Up the Wall" id="136" fa="Fisher, 1996." number="92.">Thin face with 2 eye-bolts then exit up crack on left. Can be done starting up the chimney on the right and then moving left but take off two grades. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="22" length="9m" name="Touch and Go" stars=" ** " id="137" fa="Fantini, Smith, Cameron, 1981." number="93.">First finger crack on the next face. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="20" length="9m" name="Cold Chat" id="138" fa="Fantini, Smith, 1981." number="94.">The next crack starting as a finger crack then opening up to a hand crack. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="19" length="10m" name="Left Hand Man" id="139" fa="I.Thomas, McMahon, 1980." number="95.">Starts up corner with thin crack to ledge and then easier crack. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="19" length="11m" name="The Right Man" id="140" fa="I.Thomas, McMahon, Warren, 1980." number="96.">The right line, the last of the 4 cracks. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="24" length="12m" name="Ng Man" number="97." stars="**" id="141" fa="Ng, 1988.">Arête with 2 carrots and small wires. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="21" length="10m" name="In-between Man" id="142" fa="Parsons, 1982." number="98.">Corner/thin crack 2m right of Ng Man. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="19" length="10m" name="Hot Gossip" stars=" * " id="143" fa="Smith, Fantini, 1982." number="99.">Corner/finger crack 2m right of In-between Man. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="23" length="11m" name="Godfather" number="100." stars="" id="144" fa="Ng, 1990.">Arête with 2 carrot bolts. Most people start from the Hot Gossip ledge. Add a grade for the direct. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="11m" name="Last Year'&apos;s Man" id="145" fa="Smith, Fantini, 1981." number="101.">Up awkward corner to the large hand crack. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="5Þ" grade="21" length="10m" name="Bohnanza" number="102." stars="**" id="146" fa="N Selby  9 Aug 2003.">This climb is on a new cliff just past Right Man buttress on the way to Fat Man buttress. Left leaning line/crack with 5 bolts to rap point.  Stick clip the first bolt. </climb><textclimb>
  <text class="heading3" id="147">Rhubarb Buttress</text><text Buttress</text>
  <text class="text" id="148">Access- Go down from the upstream end of Right Man Buttress and abseil in, or scramble across from Porker Pinnacle.</text><climbtext>
  <climb extra="" grade="20" length="8m" name="Getting Dark, Too Dark to See" id="149" fa="McMahon, Narkowicz, 1982." number="103.">The finger crack on the left hand end of the buttress which opens to a small corner and hand jamming. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="19" length="9m" name="By the Light of Karabiners" id="150" fa="Narkowicz, McMahon, Nougher, 1982." number="104.">Corner and crack 3m right of Getting Dark... </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="15" length="10m" name="Straight Arm" number="105." stars="" id="151" fa="McMahon, Narkowicz, 1982.">The hand crack near the arête. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="15" length="10m" name="Dog Leg" id="152" fa="McMahon, Smith, 1981." number="106.">Same start as Straight Arm then move right at 1/3 height to the next crack. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="11m" name="Diagonal" id="153" fa="Smith, McMahon, 1981." number="107.">Go up the overhanging flake to right diagonal crack and along it to the twin cracks. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="14" length="10m" name="Rhubarb" stars=" ** " id="154" fa="Parsons, Woodruff, 1977." number="108.">The main corner and crack. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="23" length="9m" name="Nowt'&apos; Breakfast" stars=" * " id="155" fa="Narkowicz, Maddock, 1982." number="109.">Up thin crack 3m right of Rhubarb. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="9m" name="The Groove" id="156" fa="McMahon, Smith, 1981." number="110.">Left slanting off-width. </climb><textclimb>
  <text class="heading3" id="157">Lady Midgnight - Upper Tier</text><texttext>
  <text class="text" id="158">Access- Upstream and downhill from Right Man. The first 3 "climbs" are barely 5m long however the rest can aspire to be grown up climbs.</text><climbtext>
  <climb extra="" grade="15" length="5m" name="Devil'&apos;s Food" id="159" fa="McMahon, Smith, 1980." number="111.">A very short finger to hand crack - almost "diminutive". </climb><climb.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="6m" name="Skylight" id="160" fa="McMahon, 1980." number="112.">Off-width with a dog-leg at 1/3 height. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="6m" name="Veiled Flesh" id="161" fa="Smith, McMahon, 1980." number="113.">Finger crack 4m upstream of Skylight. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="14" length="7m" name="The Stain" id="162" fa="McMahon, others, 1980." number="114.">Short corner but long compared to the previous 3.</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="24" length="7m" name="Scottish Fire" id="163" fa="Ng, McOwen 1990." number="115.">Step right from ledge onto arete and fixed hanger then head up. Originally done direct but a crucial hold has broken off and still waits for an ascent this way. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="10m" name="Lady Midnight" stars=" ** " id="164" fa="Parsons, Woodruff, 1977." number="116.">10m right of Fingal Fling. Up short corner and flake to move left to hand crack. </climb><textclimb>
  <text class="heading3" id="165">Lady Midnight - Lower Tier</text><texttext>
  <text class="text" id="166">Access - abseil from the tree below Lady Midnight.</text><climbtext>
  <climb extra="" grade="22" length="10m" name="Consultation" id="167" fa="Parsons, 1982." number="117.">Thin face and crack climbing on face 3m left of Joan Of Arc. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="21" length="10m" name="Joan of Arc" stars=" ** " id="168" fa="Thomas, Smith, McMahon, 1980." number="118.">The crack you just abseiled past. Climb thin crack to gain left hand edge of cave then move back left to hand crack. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="23" length="10m" name="Arc of Joan" id="169" fa="McOwan, Wells, 1989." number="119.">Climb the face right of Joan of Arc past a FH up to the cave and then up finger crack. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="10m" name="Once Again" id="170" fa="Smith, McMahon, 1980." number="120.">Traverse to the second corner upstream of Arc of Joan, preferably when the tide is out, then climb the hand crack. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="10m" name="Italian Club" id="171" fa="Mohler, McMahon, 1982 1982." number="121.">Abseil from 10m upstream of Lady Midnight to the water for a hanging belay. Climb the crack. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="10m" name="Italian Way" id="172" fa="McMahon, Mohler, 1982." number="122.">About 10m upstream of Italian Club. Climb up and left to the overhang and then up crack. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="10m" name="Whore of Babylon" id="173" fa="McMahon, Thomas, 1980." number="123.">Best approached from the upstream side or even The Gully. Start at the water level go up the slab to the small roof and jam crack. </climb><textclimb>
  <text class="heading3" id="174">Fatman Buttress - Upper Tier</text><texttext>
  <text class="text" id="175">Access- see map</text><climbtext>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="10m" name="To the Elbow" id="176" fa="McMahon, Smith 1972." number="124.">Climb the off-width behind the pillar of Thin Fiend on the downstream side. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="4Þ" grade="20" length="10m" name="Thin Fiend" number="125." stars="***" id="177" fa="Ng, 1991.">Line of 4 carrots up the isolated downstream pinnacle. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="10" length="10m" name="Fatman" id="178" fa="McMahon, McHugh, 1972." number="126.">The chimney behind the isolated Fatman Pinnacle 5m upstream from the Thin Friend pillar. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="3Þ" grade="19" length="10m" name="Crucifix" number="127." stars="***" id="179" fa="Ng, 1991.">Up the face of the Fatman Pinnacle past 3 carrots and friend placements in the horizontal breaks. DBB. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="13" length="10m" name="Thin Man" id="180" fa="McMahon, McHugh, 1972." number="128.">On the opposite side of Skinny Girl climb the easy face. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="10m" name="Prow" stars=" * " id="181" fa="Smart and McMahon." number="129.">Hard start then easily up on the left of the line of carrots.</climb><textclimb>
  <text class="text" id="182">The bolts are the result of an Ng project which was to go on the right but is too contrived to bother with.</text><climbtext>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="10m" name="Skinny Girl" id="183" fa="Smith, McMahon." number="130.">Up through bulge and hand crack to the split between the pillar and the buttress proper. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="8m" name="Acoustics and Meat" id="184" fa="Narkowicz, McMahon." number="131.">The off-width through the small roof 10m uphill and right of Skinny Girl. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="13" length="8m" name="Getting On With the Neighbours" id="185" fa="Mohler, Madden, 1981." number="132.">The corner 3m up hill from Acoustics &amp; Meat. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="15" length="8m" name="Pot Belly" id="186" fa="Smith, McMahon, 1981." number="133.">Off-width climbing saved by chock-stones. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="10m" name="Not Out" id="187" fa="McMahon, Madden, 1981." number="134.">The thin corner 3m right of Pot Belly. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="3Þ" grade="25" length="10m" name="When the Fat Lady Sings" number="135." stars="**" id="188" fa="Fox, Munro, Kearnes, 1996.">The arête/pillar with 3 eye-bolts. DBB. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="7" length="10m" name="The Oil" id="189" fa="Madden, Mohler, 1981." number="136.">The chimney at the back of When the Fat Lady Sings. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="14" length="9m" name="Purveyor of Flesh" id="190" fa="McMahon, Smith, 1981." number="137.">Second last corner of the buttress 10m uphill from When the Fat Lady Sings. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="15" length="9m" name="Price of Meat" id="191" fa="McMahon, Smith, 1981." number="138.">The last corner. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="2Þ" grade="23" length="7m" name="Start Running" number="139." stars="" id="192" fa="Ng, 1991.">The 2 carrots 3m left of You're Fat! Starting at the same level step left on to arete. Originally conceived with a direct independent start but still waiting. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="2Þ" grade="18" length="7m" name="You'&apos;re Fat!" number="140." stars="" id="193" fa="DeCesare, Fox, 1996.">Climb the face with 2 bolts on the end of the buttress. </climb><textclimb>
  <text class="heading3" id="194">Fatman Buttress - Lower Tier</text><texttext>
  <text class="text" id="195">Access by abseiling from the tree below Skinny Girl.</text><climbtext>
  <climb extra="" grade="20" name="Gerry'&apos;s River Traverse" id="196" fa="Narkowicz (solo), 1982." number="141.">Starts somewhere down river of Fatman Buttress and goes for about 100m. "The landing is soft and rarely more than 1m away" to quote someone. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="Þ" grade="21" length="12m" name="Fear and Frothing" number="142." stars="*" id="197" fa="Narkowicz, McMahon, 1982.">The thin cracks past an eye-bolt to the steel spike then traverse left to the arête and another eye-bolt. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="12m" name="Cantilever Corner" id="198" fa="McMahon, Smart, 1982." number="143.">Corner and face 3m right of Fear and Frothing. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="19" length="10m" name="Montefeltro" id="199" fa="McMahon, Narkowicz, 1982." number="144.">Flaring crack 4m upstream of Cantilever Corner. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="10m" name="Urbino" id="200" fa="McMahon, Fantini, 1980." number="145.">Uphill and upstream of the last climb is a separate pillar split by a crack. </climb><textclimb>
  <text class="heading3" id="201">Wonders of the Flesh Buttress</text><texttext>
  <text class="text" id="202">This buttress is upstream and on the same level as the top of the Fatman Buttress, directly above The Gully.</text><climbtext>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="9m" name="Third Knuckle" id="203" fa="McMahon, Smith, 1981." number="146.">Hand crack on the left. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="9m" name="Sapient Sutler" id="204" fa="Parsons et al, 1976." number="147.">Left hand line on the right hand side of the buttress. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="9m" name="Polyphiloprogenitive" id="205" fa="Smith, McMahon, 1981." number="148.">Corner right of Sapient Sutler to join it at the off-width. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="4Þ" grade="19" guide.action="submit" guide.id="204" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="12m" name="Fish Fingered Choir Girl" number="149." stars="" id="206" fa="Dennis Kearnes, Michael Fox, 3 Nov 2007.">A couple of metres left of Noodle Armed Choir Boy. Climb the face, 4 fixed hangers, take a wire for the top moves if you want extra pro. DBB at the top. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="12m" name="Noodle Armed Choir Boy" id="207" fa="Bissett, 1998." number="150.">On face that faces upstream overlooking The Gully. Walk downhill and then upstream from You're Fat and abseil to large ledge from DBB on LPFY! Climb face corner past two U-bolts, then natural gear. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="Þ" grade="25" length="12m" name="Lesbo Pussy Feast, Yehah!!" number="151." stars="**" id="208" fa="Bissett, 1998">The line 4m right of NACB. Climb past two U-bolts (double ropes may be better, but clips are good) into corner, place a cam and go up. </climb><textclimb>
  <text class="heading3" id="209">The Gully</text><texttext>
  <text class="text" id="210">Access- requires a 30m abseil from the double bolt belay, next to small tree below the Wonders of the Flesh Buttress.</text><climbtext>
  <climb extra="" grade="21" length="25m" name="Lutzen" id="211" fa="Fantini, McMahon, 1981." number="152.">Start on the downstream side of the gully.
 1) Climb up the thin line to the black face, then continue to a grassy ledge. 2) Climb up the obvious left crack. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="27m" name="Eyalu" stars=" *** " id="212" fa="McMahon, Duhig, 1980." number="153.">The main crack. Can be split at the grassy ledge. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="11" length="27m" name="The Gully Route" number="154." stars="" id="213" fa=" Talbot, K.Smith, 1975.">What other description do you need?</climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="19" length="20m" name="Bautlen" stars=" * " id="214" fa="McMahon, Ling, 1982." number="155.">On the upstream side of the gully. Up blank corner past piton, through small roof and up crack. </climb><textclimb>
  <text class="heading3" id="215">Mars Wall</text><texttext>
  <text class="text" id="216">Access- upstream from the gully. Abseil in from 2 bolts above Almost Mars.</text><climbtext>
  <climb extra="3Þ" grade="21" length="10m" name="Chardonnay Man" number="156." stars="***" id="217" fa="Bissett, Fox, 1997">The arête left of Mars Wall proper. 3 bolts to a DBB. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="22" length="12m" name="Almost Mars" id="218" fa="Smart, McMahon, 1982." number="157.">Thin crack and face climbing 1m left of Mars deviating right at the top. Apparently a direct finish has been done at 24. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="12m" name="Mars" id="219" fa="Thomas, Smith, McMahon 1981." number="158.">The crack. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="6Þ" grade="21" length="16m" name="Serenity Now!!" number="159." stars="***" id="220" fa="Bissett, 1998.">In the gully right of Mars Wall is a line of 6 U-bolts. This is it. DBB. </climb><textclimb>
  <text class="heading3" id="221">Gabriel Gully</text><texttext>
  <text class="text" id="222">Access- above and to the right of Mars Wall is a gully, on the left is a very small buttress with the following routes. It can also be accessed from Gabriel.</text><climbtext>
  <climb extra="" grade="23" length="8m" name="Fuseli" id="223" fa="McMahon, Ling, 1982." number="160.">The blank corner to the crack and then exit left. Originally used a piton runner. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="9m" name="Incubus" id="224" fa="Ling, McMahon, 1982." number="161.">Up crack to groove. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="9m" name="Sucubus" id="225" fa="McMahon, Ling, 1982." number="162.">Hand crack. </climb><textclimb>
  <text class="heading3" id="226">Gabriel Buttress</text><texttext>
  <text class="text" id="227">Access- either by hopping across the rocks when (the tide is out) opposite the table and chairs on the Shady Side, or follow the map. The first 3 routes are on the left uphill section of the cliff. Bolt belays on top of main cliff.</text><climbtext>
  <climb extra="" grade="22" length="20m" name="Bolingbroke" id="228" fa="McMahon, Ling, 1982." number="163.">The thin corner to horizontal break/roof. You can escape here by stepping across left to ledge or go left and continue up chimney for pitch 2. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="22" length="20m" name="Body Extraction" stars=" ** " id="229" fa="Fox, Bissett, 1997." number="164.">A better version of the above climb. Instead of escaping at break/roof, keep going up past a U-bolt, then some gear and ledges to more bolts. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="19" length="10m" name="Wad" id="230" fa="Narkowicz, McMahon, 1982." number="165.">The corner/crack right of Bolingbroke. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="13" length="10m" name="Tree Root" id="231" fa="McHugh, McMahon, 1972." number="166.">From top of Wad go up slabs to corner and right to groove. </climb><textclimb>
  <text class="text" id="232">The next routes are on the bottom tier of the Gabriel Buttress facing directly onto the river.</text><climbtext>
  <climb extra="" grade="23" length="10m" name="Bonking in Kombis" number="167." stars="*" id="233" fa="Fox, Munro, Povey, 1995.">Arête and shallow corner on the downstream end. 2 eye-bolts and small cams. DBB. </climb><textclimb>
  <text class="text" id="234">These next climbs finish at a DBB at the ledge.</text><climbtext>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="12m" name="Gabriel" stars=" * " id="235" fa="McMahon, Burnett, Mallinson, 1973." number="168.">Twin crack/corner on the bottom left of the Gabriel Buttress. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="2Þ" grade="25" length="12m" name="Third Uncle" number="169." stars="***" id="236" fa="Ng, 1989.">Arête with 2 fixed hangers. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="19" length="12m" name="Don'&apos;t Look at the Mantelpiece When You Poke the Fire" stars=" ** " id="237" fa="Deka, Ling, McMahon, Smith, 1980." number="170.">Face and crack system right of Third Uncle. </climb><textclimb>
  <text class="text" id="238">The next two climbs go from the ledge above Don't Look at the ....</text><climb/text>
  <climb extra="" grade="15" length="12m" name="Cashel" id="239" fa="McMahon, Talbot, 1975." number="171.">Climb up 3m and traverse upstream 10m from the DBB above Third Uncle. Climb the off-width crack with a FH on the right and a loose chockstone which faces downstream. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="21" length="14m" name="Lost in Space" stars=" ** " id="240" fa="Parsons, Deka, 1981." number="172.">10m upstream from the DBB and 3m right of Cashel is a small roof. Climb up this to a thin crack/corner system leading to an overlap and finger crack beyond. </climb><textclimb>
  <text class="text" id="241">The following routes are back on the river level.</text><climbtext>
  <climb extra="" grade="12" length="12m" name="Spike Route" stars=" * " id="242" fa="McMahon, Burnett, Mallinson, 1973." number="173.">Climb up past the obvious spike. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="13" length="12m" name="Lay Down" id="243" fa="McMahon, Burnett, 1973." number="174.">The crack 3m right of the Spike Route. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="15" length="26m" name="Ornithologist" id="244" fa="Hamilton, Smith, 1981." number="175.">Crack behind tree to ledge then up the next tier on the right to the chimney/off-width crack. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="8m" name="Mistake Flake" id="245" fa="Smith, Cameron, Deka, Hamilton, 1981." number="176.">Flake 3m above the ground. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="20m" name="Loose Money, Juice Money" stars=" * " id="246" fa="Smith, McMahon, Cover, 1980." number="177.">Up main crack in the centre of the buttress to the top. It is possible to traverse left at the start of the off-width into another crack at about 18. </climb><textclimb>
  <text class="text" id="247">The next climbs start on the second tier on the right hand side of the buttress</text><climbtext>
  <climb extra="" grade="20" length="12m" name="Son of Man" stars=" ** " id="248" fa="Narkowicz, Kearnes, Ng, 1985" number="178.">Up left trending flake to arete, sparse protection but excellent climbing. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="21" length="10m" name="Hand in Glove" id="249" fa="Ng, 1990." number="179.">Climb the large pillar 4m right of Son of Man, one carrot only and a cosmetic wire. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="19" length="13m" name="Chicken Shit Variant" number="180." stars="" id="250" fa="De Cesare, Jones Oct 2003.">Climb Cowardice to the crack below the roof. Step left onto the face and crank the spaced face holds up and left past one fixed hanger to the #1 cam crack. </climb><climb crack.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="13m" name="Cowardice" id="251" fa="Smith, Cover, 1980." number="181.">Yellow corner on the right of the buttress. Classic climbing. </climb><textclimb>
  <text class="heading3" id="252">Gabriel Amphitheatre</text><texttext>
  <text class="text" id="253">Access- up right of the main face of Gabriel Buttress</text><climbtext>
  <climb extra="" grade="19" length="10m" name="Cacodaemon" stars=" * " id="254" fa="McMahon, 1973." number="182.">Elegant climbing up clean corner and thin finger crack. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="5Þ" grade="26" length="15m" name="Spiritual Warfare" number="183." stars="*" id="255" fa="Narkowicz 2001.">The arête right of Cacodaemon. Climb Mendelt's Route to the first bolt and then move left to the arête past 4 more bolts to DBB. Difficult to avoid stepping onto MR at times but worthwhile if you can. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="10m" name="Mendelt'&apos;s Route" number="184." stars="" id="256" fa="Mendelt Tillema, 1974.">Off-width corner right of Spiritual Fire. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="23" length="10m" name="Prince Hamlet" id="257" fa="McMahon, Smith, 1982." number="185.">Thin crack 1m right of Mendelt's Route. Originally done with a piton. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="9m" name="Cutting Corner" id="258" fa="McMahon, 1980." number="186.">The next corner right. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="14" length="9m" name="Duke of York" id="259" fa="McMahon, McHugh, 1972." number="187.">Up the twin cracks. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="21" length="9m" name="Expiation" id="260" fa="McMahon, Martin, Mohler, 1982." number="188.">Up crack to flake clearing vegetation and dirt as you go. </climb><textclimb>
  <text class="heading3" id="261">School Girl Pinnacles</text><texttext>
  <text class="text" id="262">About half way down to Gabriel Buttress from the top (or halfway to the zig-zag track from the bottom) is a Pinnacle with a few bolted lines on it. This is it. DBB on top.</text><climbtext>
  <climb extra="" grade="14" length="10m" name="Hot For Teacher" id="263" fa="Bissett, French, 1997" number="189.">On the down stream side of the pinnacle is an easy line to the top. Its really only worthwhile as a means to get to the top if you want to top-rope the other lines. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="Þ" grade="22" length="10m" name="The Delightful Giggle of Schoolgirls" number="190." stars="*" id="264" fa="Bissett, 1997.">On the downhill face of the pinnacle. Follow the bolts. DBB. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="4Þ" grade="26" length="10m" name="Schoolgirl'&apos;s Secret Pleasure Spot" number="191." stars="***" id="265" fa="Fox, 1997.">The upstream line of 4 bolts. Start from the right then go straight up. DBB. </climb><textclimb>
  <text class="text" id="266">Uphill and slightly right of the above routes is a slabby looking piece of rock. This is Six-pack Slab and the following two climbs are there.</text><climbtext>
  <climb extra="3Þ" grade="22" length="10m" name="Max Factor" number="192." stars="*" id="267" fa="Fox, Nicholls, 1997.">The left line of 3 bolts, past a hard start. DBB. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="3Þ" grade="22" length="10m" name="Six-Pack" number="193." stars="" id="268" fa="Nichols, Fox, 1997.">"Cos it ain't no fuckin' slab", said the delusional first ascensionist. The right line of 3 bolts. DBB. </climb><textclimb>
  <text class="heading3" id="269">Dent de Lion Pinnacles</text><texttext>
  <text class="text" id="270">About 50m upstream from Gabriel Buttress or where you cross the river when the tide is out are two separate pillars of rock. The downstream one being the taller and pointier of the two.</text><climbtext>
  <climb extra="" grade="24" length="8m" name="Hot Tips From Bisso" id="271" fa="Fox and Bissett, 2001." number="194.">The downstream pinnacle up past 2 bolts to the crack above and a DBB. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="3Þ" grade="24" length="9m" name="The Dum Arm" number="195." stars="*" id="272" fa="Fox and Bissett 2001.">Down and right 10m from HTFB is a line of 3 bolts that go to a DBB. </climb><textclimb>
  <text class="heading3" id="273">Tithog Pinnacle</text><texttext>
  <text class="text" id="274">Access- About 100m upstream from Gabriel Buttress, almost where you cross the river when the tide is in, is a small pinnacle almost hidden by the trees.</text><climbtext>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="8m" name="Tithog" id="275" fa="McMahon, Mohler, 1982." number="196.">The hand crack on the left hand side of the pinnacle. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="23" length="8m" name="Vision of Hope" id="276" fa="Narkowicz, 2001." number="197.">Through the overhang right of Tithog past 2 bolts and a 1.5 cam to a DBB. </climb><textclimb>
  <text class="heading3" id="277">Ling's Pinnacle</text><texttext>
  <text class="text" id="278">Access- 100m upstream from Tithog Pinnacle or opposite the Prince of Darkness.</text><climbtext>
  <climb extra="" grade="19" length="10m" name="Ling'&apos;s Slant" id="279" fa="Ling, Lamb, McMahon, 1982." number="198.">Start up the crack facing the river then go right around the arête and into the slant. </climb><climb</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="22" length="8m" name="The Plumb Line" id="280" fa="Narkowicz, 2001" number="199.">The thin crack to the right of Ling's Slant with one bolt. </climb><textclimb>
  <text class="heading3" id="281">Paradise Buttress</text><texttext>
  <text class="text" id="282">Another 50m upstream from Ling's Slant is the last passable piece of rock before the river bends around to the Tea Room Cliffs.</text><climbtext>
  <climb extra="Þ" grade="22" length="8m" name="Heavenly Prize" number="200." stars="*" id="283" fa="Narkowicz, 2001">The left hand line of bolts to a DBB. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="Þ" grade="23" length="8m" name="Paradise Road" number="201." stars="" id="284" fa="Narkowicz, 2001.">The right hand line of bolts. Add a grade if you feel vertically challenged and you're onsighting it. DBB. </climb><textclimb>
  <text class="heading3" id="285">Tea Room Cliffs</text><texttext>
  <text class="text" id="286">Access- Directly opposite the Gorge Restaurant Tea Rooms look-out are two small cliffs, about 20m 1 is the most downstream of the 2 buttress.</text><climbtext>
  <climb extra="3Þ" grade="24" length="12m" name="Boys On the Monkey Bars" number="202." stars="***" id="287" fa="Fox, Munro, DeCesare, 1995.">Climb arête on separate pillar with 3 eye-bolts. DBB. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="2Þ" grade="23" length="9m" name="Masturbation" number="203." stars="" id="288" fa="Fox, Munro, 1996.">It's not only wankers that do it. 2 eye-bolts around the corner from Boys On the Monkey Bars. Hard to avoid the block behind and awkward clips. </climb><textclimb>
  <text class="text" id="289">and on Tea Room No 2 is ...</text><climbtext>
  <climb extra="" grade="19" length="9m" name="Yellow Corner" id="290" fa="Thomas, Fantini, 1980." number="204.">With a name like that who needs a description? The crack to a shallow yellow corner. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="10m" name="Passing the Time" id="291" fa="McMahon, Ogbourne, 1982." number="205.">Off-width corner 3m right of Yellow Corner. Surprisingly good fun. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="15" length="9m" name="Peacock Walk" number="206." stars="" id="292" fa="McMahon, 1978.">Up horizontal breaks and blocks 5m right of Passing the Time. A variant start 2m further right is also quite good. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="9m" name="Extreme Unction" id="293" fa="McMahon, Martin, Mohler, 1982." number="207.">Around bulge to crack. </climb><climbclimb>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="9m" name="Robertson'&apos;s Off-Width" id="294" fa="Robertson, 1978." number="208.">Guess what? </climb><climb>
</guide>