Page History

<guide>
  <header id="359" name="Eldorado" walk="" sun="" rock="" acknowledgement="" intro="Eldorado comprises the west facing cliffs around the corner to the right of the Colosseum area, visible as you walk down the hill from the parking area. The sun gets here later than at the Colosseum or Plebeians wall. Good in summer - cooler in winter. &lt;br/&gt;The easiest approach to Eldorado is via the blue taped track which leads up the hill opposite Riverside, and meets the cliff line at Midas&apos; Touch - the rest of the routes are reached by walking to the left. Alternatively you can follow the red taped track to the Colosseum, continuing right along the base of the cliff past Plebeians Wall and then Minions Wall. Eldorado starts about 50m past Minions Wall where the track turns left around a corner to follow the cliff line. &lt;br/&gt;The left side of Eldorado contains the Consolidation Sector and the steep cave of the Skywalker Sector. Immediately right of this feature is the Eldorado Main Wall. Pay Dirt and Gold Leaf are at the centre near a large, square boulder at the bottom of the wall/slabs." history="" access="" camping="" autonumber="true"/>
  <text class="heading3" id="256">Consolidation Sector</text>
  <image id="264" legendTitle="Consolidation Buttress" legend="true" height="1510" src="Consolidation.jpg">
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    <legend>
      <climb>255</climb>
    </legend>
  </image>
  <climb name="Consolidation " id="255" fa="Stu Scott. Bob Bull. January 2018" grade="17" length="12m" number="1." extra="5Þ" stars="*">Small buttress 60m along the track after turning the corner at the end of Minions Wall. Starts opposite a large dead tree on the track. Up the wall with the crux just after the steepening. Clean rock and a bit of fun.</climb>
  <text class="intro" id="259">The following three routes are on Hat Trick Wall, with its prominent overhang halfway up. The wall is slightly above the track and accessed by scrambling up some easy slabs. There is a double bolt belay at the bottom of the wall.</text>
  <image id="261" legendTitle="Hat Trick Wall" legend="true" height="1510" src="HatTrick.jpg">
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    </drawing>
    <legend>
      <climb>260</climb>
      <climb>257</climb>
      <climb>258</climb>
    </legend>
  </image>
  <climb name="Fred Sopporth" id="260" fa="Neale Smith and plebs, May 2018" grade="17" length="16m" number="2." extra="8Þ" stars="*">The left hand line on Hat Trick Buttress. Scramble with care to DBB at base of broken corner leading to small roof. An awkward move or two across short wall under roof and follow line of bolts to anchors just shy of cliff top.</climb>
  <climb name="Standard Deviation" id="257" fa="Stu Scott and Bob Bull, January 2018" grade="20" length="16m" number="3." extra="8Þ" stars="**">The middle route. Slab then crux moves up into hanging corner followed by lovely steep slab of water washed stone.</climb>
  <climb name="Three Card Trick" id="258" fa="Bob Bull and Stu Scott, January 2018" grade="18" length="16m" number="4." extra="8Þ" stars="**">Right hand route. Intricate slab, mantle, then crux moves over bulge followed by lovely steep slab of water washed stone.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="263">The next two routes are on the Blade Arete, the prominent sharp arete with a gum tree at the top just left of the Skywalker cave.</text>
  <image id="262" legendTitle="Blade Arete" legend="true" height="1510" src="Blade.jpg">
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    <legend>
      <climb>250</climb>
      <climb>251</climb>
    </legend>
  </image>
  <climb name="The Blade" id="250" fa="Bob Bull, Stu Scott  January 2018" grade="17" length="16m" number="5." extra="8Þ" stars="**">Excellent climbing up the left side of the sharp arete to the left of the cave section.</climb>
  <climb name="Blade Runner" id="251" fa="Dave Stephenson, January 2018" grade="20" length="16m" number="6." extra="10Þ" stars="**">Overhang just right of The Blade arete, followed by right side of Blade arete. When forced left by gum tree move up to Blade lower offs.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="242">Skywalker Sector</text>
  <text class="text" id="244">Immediately left of the Main Wall is a steep cave just above the access track. This is the Skywalker Sector, named after the astonishing looking route that rises leftwards through the cave and blasts out the jutting roof.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;The cave offers protection from wind and rain, and comes into sun an hour or two after the main wall (sun after about 1pm in summer).</text>
  <climb name="Sidewinder" id="246" fa="Owen Gervasoni, Nov 2017" grade="22" length="14m" number="7." extra="6Þ" stars="**">Takes the technical steep slab and short overhang on left side of cave. To avoid being blown up at the crux you'll need to jag left then right in quick succession.</climb>
  <climb name="#Luke" id="238" fa="G Phillips Dec 2017" grade="23" length="12m" number="8." extra="Þ" stars="*">Steep>Next climbingline upright theof overhanging wall. (Do not climb bolts need glueing in)Sidewinder.</climb>
  <climb name="Skywalker" id="237" fa="G Phillips Nov 2017" grade="27" length="20m" number="9." extra="Þ" stars="***">Up to small roof at 7m, pull around this on the left and trend diagonally leftwards to the base of the roof. Through this and the headwall above.</climb>
  <climb name="#Leia" id="236" fa="G Phillips Nov 2017" grade="22" length="12m" number="10." extra="Þ" stars="*">Starts as for Skywalker but from the small roof at 7m head right and up.</climb>
  <climb name="#Anakin" id="235" fa="G Phillips Nov 2017" grade="23" length="12m" number="11." extra="Þ" stars="**">Fingery and pumpy climbing up the gently over hanging orange wall.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="358">The following three routes take the tall narrow buttress that seperates the Skywalker Sector from the Elderado Main Wall. Some long slings are handy to reduce rope drag on these routes.</text>
  <climb name="Roger Ramjet" id="247" fa="Owen Gervasoni, Feb 2018" grade="21" length="15m" number="12." extra="Þ" stars="">“Not one of your better efforts Owen – Roger Parkyn”. Start as for FF, but where FF moves right, continue straight up the left arête. Try to avoid the temptation to use the rubbly crack. At the final rooflet, step left and scramble up to ledge. A convenient way to access the anchors on top of FF.</climb>
  <climb name="Devil May Care Link" id="248" fa="" grade="23/24" length="20m" number="13." extra="Þ" stars="">This Flying Fool Variant avoids the large final roof, buts adds more sustained face climbing. From the base of the FF roof hand traverse left under roof to left side of buttress, then move up and slightly right through smaller part of roof.</climb>
  <climb name="Flying Fool" id="357" fa="Owen Gervasoni, April 2018" grade="25" length="18m" number="14." extra="Þ" stars="**">An intimidating line with lots of sustained and varied climbing. From the right side of the ledge under the Skywalker Cave, head up then make a thin rising right traverse to gain the right arête of the buttress. Up with difficulty to jugs under large roof. Suck up some air and pull through the large roof of spaced jugs. The anchor is easiest to clip after mantling onto the ledge above.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="240">Eldorado Main Wall</text>
  <text class="text" id="243">The climbs on the Main Wall are longer than most in the area - slabs, walls and arête climbing up to 30m. Generally less steep than the Colosseum but the climbs have been "mined" to expose the value. Grades are possibly more reasonable than other areas. Comes into the sun at about 12 noon in summer.</text>
  <image id="185" width="800" legendTitle="Eldorado left" legend="true" height="688" src="Eldorado_left.jpg" legendx="628" legendy="6">
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    <legend>
      <climb>122</climb>
      <climb>132</climb>
    </legend>
  </image>
  <climb name="Inca Trail " id="122" fa="Bob Bull and Stu Scott, Oct 2017." grade="19" length="28m" number="15." extra="12Þ" stars="**">Up short wall to ledge with DBB, moving left above and up the flake. Sustained, steep, superb slabbing to the very last move. Gold.</climb>
  <climb name=" Miner&apos;s Rights" id="132" fa="Bob Bull  and Plebs, Nov 2017" grade="19" length="28m" number="16." extra="12Þ" stars="*">Shares start with Inca Trail, then continues up slab and wall to the right, with crux at the top.</climb>
  <image id="188" width="800" legendTitle="Eldorado center" legend="true" height="616" src="Eldorado_center.jpg">
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    <legend>
      <climb>109</climb>
      <climb>110</climb>
      <climb>187</climb>
      <climb>123</climb>
    </legend>
  </image>
  <climb name="Pay Dirt " id="109" fa="Bully and the Plebs" grade="15" length="26m" number="17." extra="9Þ" stars="*">Up the slab and move into the left facing corner. Short slab at finish.</climb>
  <climb name="Gold Leaf" id="110" fa="Stu Scott  and Bob Bull, Oct 2017." grade="20" length="26m" number="18." extra="12Þ" stars="***">Thin and delicate. Sustained and well protected - so nothing not to enjoy. Follow the bolts. The direct between 3 and 4 is about 22 and classy but if you sneak to the left.....</climb>
  <climb name="Golden Anniversary" id="187" fa="Tony McKenny, Mat Crawford and Al Beach, April 2018." grade="19" length="26m" number="19." extra="11Þ  " stars="*">This one is for you, Heth! 50 years...&lt;br/&gt;The overhanging lay-back crack right of Gold Leaf. Start from the large boulder and climb the crack direct, with some sharp moves to the tree (the wall beside the tree has been climbed, or use the tree, Tarzan style - your choice!). Finish up the easier slabs to the lower offs, or better, move left to finish up the terrific hanging slab of Gold leaf.</climb>
  <image id="189" width="900" legendTitle="Eldorado right" legend="true" height="596" src="Eldorado_right_small.jpg">
    <drawing>
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    <legend>
      <climb>123</climb>
      <climb>131</climb>
      <climb>173</climb>
      <climb>124</climb>
      <climb>125</climb>
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  </image>
  <climb name="Buried Treasure" id="123" fa="Chuck McGibbon and Plebs, Oct 2017" grade="20" length="15m" number="20." extra="6Þ" stars="">Follow the crack.</climb>
  <climb name="Golden Thread" id="131" fa="Dave Stephenson, Nov 2017" grade="22" length="14m" number="21." extra="7Þ" stars="**">Undercling up and over corner flake, then follow seams in smooth yellow wall to right of Buried Treasure.</climb>
  <climb name="All That Glitters" id="173" fa="T. McKenny and C. McGibbon, Nov 2017." grade="14" length="15m" number="22." extra="6Þ" stars="*">Moves up a smooth wall off the massive boulder lead to a vertical crack line, an excellent introduction to the dark arts of jamming!</climb>
  <climb name="Alchemy " id="124" fa="Dave Stephenson, Oct 2017." grade="23" length="14m" number="23." extra="6Þ" stars="**">Up slab then nice moves up seams on orange wall.</climb>
  <climb name="Fool&apos;s Gold" id="125" fa="Dave Stephenson and Plebs, January 2018" grade="18" length="12m" number="24." extra="6Þ" stars="*">Layaways up seam right of Alchemy start, finishing on steep nose.</climb>
  <climb name="Midas&apos; Touch" id="129" fa="Stu Scott and and Bob Bull, Oct 2017." grade="21" length="18m" number="25." extra="9Þ" stars="**">The Arapilian looking arete on the buttress 50m or so to the right of Alchemy. Classy moves on superb stone.</climb>
</guide>