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Guide
<guide guidestarsversion="**2" pagesize="1500" versionguidestars="2**">
  <header accessid="All the climbs on the (south) Sunny Side of the Gorge can be accessed from the Zig-Zag track, which starts at the soute side of Kings Bridge. Park in the Penny Royal car-park, just before the bridge. See the sketch map for an idea of how to get to the buttresses. " acknowledgement="by Michael Fox, originally published in Craglets" history=""1" autonumber="true" camping="" walk="1-15 min" sun="All day sun" rock="Short vertical dolerite buttresses. Mostly trad routes, but some bolts." name="Cataract Gorge - Sunny Side" intro="Climbing in Launceston used to happen mainly in the Gorge area which is 10 minutes walk from the centre of town however it now also includes the whole of the South Esk. As with most of Tassie, a lot of the climbing is on dolerite crags, in cracks and corners, occasionally branching out on to the faces and aretes. This section of the guide has only been possible thanks to the input of the local climbing community. That being said it is everyone’s responsibility to ensure editors are supplied accurate and up to date information. If you spot inaccuracies, let us know and we’ll fix them, if you’re not prepared to do this don’t complain about the product!  As such this is a ragtag collection of gossip and innuendo and should be treated as such. A lot of these routes haven’t been done by yours truly so I can’t vouch for their grades, quality or even give them a character reference. A lot of the routes are not even known by names except as “that 19 left of...”. In these cases I made up names for them because I got sick of writing “left of the 19...”. Such climbs are marked with a #. Climbers have worked closely with the Launceston City Council who are concerned about safety for climbers and walkers. To ensure continued access to the cliffs climbers have negotiated a Code of Conduct with the council. See http://www.launceston.tas.gov.au/upload/3819/conduct.pdf for a copy. A basic summary of this appears below and it will improve our chances of continuing to climb in the Gorge if you can follow them…. Don’t act like a dickhead! Be nice to the trees, animals, tourists and plants. If you have to scrub a new route for hours before it’s climbable then don’t bother as it will probably be covered in lichen again after the winter. Routes directly above the “Tourist Track” must be adequately protected to ensure the safety of the non-climbing public. Let people know what you are doing (nobody wants a climber plummeting onto them out of the blue!). Fixed anchors should be current best practice with the use of corrosive metals and “carrots” considered sub-standard. All routes (including gear routes) above Tourist Tracks must have double lower off bolts (this protects vegetation and eliminates the risk of dislodging stones while scrambling down off climbs). For current information contact Ian Ferrier at Mountain Designs in York St, Launceston. There is no intention to deter bold climbing or tell people when and where to bolt, but all climbers should understand that this is an access issue and that there is much rock away from tourist areas. The Gorge is the most popular climbing area in Launceston, it is broken into two areas. The Shady Side and the Sunny Side. Simple hey! Obviously climb on the Shady Side on hot sunny days and on the Sunny Side any other time. Be Safe. Be Good and ... use ‘adequate protection’." history="" nameacknowledgement="Cataract Gorge - Sunny Side" rock="Short vertical dolerite buttresses. Mostly trad routes, but some bolts." sun="All day sun" walk="1-15 min" id="1" camping="" autonumber="true"/>
  <image noPrint="false" by Michael Fox, originally published in Craglets" access="All the climbs on the (south) Sunny Side of the Gorge can be accessed from the Zig-Zag track, which starts at the soute side of Kings Bridge. Park in the Penny Royal car-park, just before the bridge. See the sketch map for an idea of how to get to the buttresses. "/>
  <image id="2" height="653" width="" src="Launceston Area Access Map.png" widthnoPrint="false"/>
  <image id="23" height="6531175"/>
  <image noPrint width="false700" src="Launceston_Zigzag.PNG" widthnoPrint="700" id="3" height="1175false">null</image>
  <text class="heading3" id="4">Seif Buttress</text>
  <text class="text" id="5">Access- see map. The first major (8m) pinnacle that you come to on the uphill side of the zig-zag track. Beware the large flake on the right has been known to move. DBB on top.</text>
  <climb extraid="6" grade="19" length="8m" name="Miff-Take" idnumber="61." fa="Thomas, McMahon, Ling, 1980." length="8m" grade="19" numberextra="1.">Up the face on the front of the pinnacle to the horizontal break and then left to the crack.</climb>
  <climb extraid="7" gradename="20Arête Direct" lengthnumber="8m2." namefa="Arête DirectParsons (solo), 1982." numberlength="2.8m" starsgrade="20" idextra="7" fastars="Parsons (solo), 1982.">Start in yellow open book corner, up to horizontal break and then up arête.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="8m <climb id="8" name="Seif" idnumber="83." fa="McMahon, McHugh, 1972. " length=" number8m" grade="17" extra="3.">From back right-hand edge of pinnacle traverse left to hand crack and up. Various combinations of these have been done including a traverse around the whole pinnacle at the level of the horizontal break (about 22).</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="9">Trackside Buttress</text>
  <text class="text" id="10">Access- see map. The largest piece of climbable rock right beside the track. The first ascentionists are long forgotten but it still makes an excellent place to start climbing with a lot of the routes off the vertical. Bolt belays on top.</text>
  <climb extraid="11" gradename="Tree Route" number="124." length=" 8m" namegrade="Tree Route12" numberextra="4." stars="**" id="11">The hand-sized crack on the left-hand end. A great start to your jamming career.</climb>
  <climb extraid="12" gradename="12Companion Corner" lengthnumber="8m5." namelength="Companion Corner8m" idgrade="12" numberextra="5.">Corner to 2m right of the Tree Route.</climb>
  <climb extraid="13" gradename="18Apron Slab" lengthnumber="10m6." namelength="Apron Slab10m" starsgrade=" * 18" idextra="13" numberstars="6. * ">The left trending line of underclings.</climb>
  <climb extraid="14" gradename="16Centre Corner" lengthnumber="10m7." namelength="Centre Corner10m" idgrade="1416" numberextra="7.">What else</climb>
  <climb extraid="15" gradename="12Fern Crack" lengthnumber="10m8." namelength="Fern Crack10m" idgrade="1512" numberextra="8.">The crack 3m right of Centre Corner.</climb>
  <climb extraid="16" gradename="19Nark" lengthnumber="8m9." namelength="Nark8m" idgrade="1619" numberextra="9.">The next arete right of Fern Crack.</climb>
  <climb extraid="17" gradename="18Tremulo" lengthnumber="8m10." namelength="Tremulo8m" idgrade="1718" numberextra="10.">Boulder problem start in the shallow corner near the end of the buttress.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="18">Lots of boulder problems and traverses also exist in this area.</text>
  <text class="heading3" id="19">Uphill Buttress</text>
  <text class="text" id="20">Access- scramble up from the downstream end of Track Side Buttress. The climbs start around the corner on the downstream side and are 6-8m high.</text>
  <climb extraid="" grade="1621" name="Jamal" idnumber="2111." fa="McMahon, McHugh, 1972." grade="16" numberextra="11.">The off-width.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="18"22" name="H-Block" idnumber="2212." fa="Parsons, Grant, Moore, 1978." numbergrade="18" extra="12.">Bulging hand crack to off-width.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="23" name="Felodese" idnumber="2313." fa="Ng, 1990." grade="23" numberextra="13.">Up face with single bolt.</climb>
  <climb extraid="24" grade="15" name="Serafino" idnumber="2414." fa="McMahon, McHugh, 1972." grade="15" numberextra="14.">The off-width to chimney on the front of the buttress.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="25" name="Mini Mayhem" idnumber="2515." fa="Parsons, Carrigan, 1982." numbergrade="25" extra="15.">Face climbing to a thin crack 3m right of Serafino. DBB.</climb>
  <climb extraid="26" grade="20" name="Zoot" starsnumber=" ** " id="2616." fa="Thomas, McMahon, Ling, 1980." grade="20" numberextra="" stars="16. ** ">Boulder problem start to gain access to the finger crack. DBB.</climb>
  <climb extraid="27" gradename="17Speransky" namenumber="Speransky17." idgrade="2717" numberextra="17.">The crack on the right hand side of the buttress.</climb>
  <climb extraid="2Þ28" grade="17" length="8m" name="Waiting for Kate" number="18." stars="" id="28" fa="Dennis Kearnes, Kate Tasker 4 Nov 2009." length="8m" grade="17" extra="2Þ" stars="">On the face uphill and to the right of Speransky with 2 FH.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="29">Offal Buttress</text>
  <text class="text" id="30">Access- see map. Basically down hill from Trackside. Beware of the fervid abseilers. DBB on top.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="22" length="15m  <climb id="31" name="Blue No More" idnumber="3119." fa="McMahon, Smith, 1981." numberlength="15m" grade="22" extra="19.">On the left hand end off the cliff 6m from Pelvic Thrust is a flaring corner. Up this to thin seam which widens to a hand crack.</climb>
  <climb extraid="32" gradename="21Pelvic Thrust" lengthnumber="18m20." namefa="Pelvic ThrustFantini, McMahon, 1981." starslength=" * 18m" idgrade="3221" faextra="Fantini, McMahon, 1981." numberstars="20. * ">Thin crack to FH and small roof and then out left to final crack.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="23" length="18m" 33" name="Free Passage" idnumber="3321." fa="Fantini, Smith, 1981." numberlength="18m" grade="23" extra="21.">Start 4m right of Pelvic Thrust and climb the face/crack to a ledge. Step left to the hand/finger crack.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="20" length="18m34" name="Offal" idnumber="3422." fa="McHugh, McMahon, 1972." length="18m" grade="20" numberextra="22.">The blood spilling off-width.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="22" length="18m"35" name="Offal Diagonal" idnumber="3523." fa="Parsons, 1982." length=" number18m" grade="22" extra="23.">Start up Offal and then at the ledge go out the right diagonal crack.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="23" length="25m" 36" name="Blockbuster Traverse" idnumber="3624." fa="Narkowicz, McMahon, 1985." length=" number25m" grade="23" extra="24.">Start from the ledge on Blue No More across Pelvic Thrust and Free Passage then finishing up Offal Diagonal. Initially climbed with a piton knocked in with a blockbuster.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="13" length="16m"37" name="Knacker" idnumber="3725." fa="McMahon (solo), 1972." numberlength="16m" grade="13" extra="25.">The chimney around the corner formed by the back of the Pelvic Thrust block.</climb>
  <climb extraid="38" grade="15" length="15m" name="Morte D&apos;Arthur" idnumber="3826." fa="McMahon, Madden, Smith, 1981." length="15m" grade="15" numberextra="26.">The next chimney.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="23" length="14m <climb id="39" name="Saved" starsnumber=" ** 27." id="39" fa="Narkowicz, Focken, 1985." number="27.length="14m" grade="23" extra="" stars=" ** ">Thin face climbing with very little gear. Next to the descent track 5m uphill from Morte D'Arthur.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="40">Below Offal Buttress there is a series of small faces with potential for some new (but "diminutive") routes.</text>
  <text class="heading3" id="41">Shimmy Sheister Buttress</text>
  <text class="text" id="42">Access- see map. Just upstream and downhill from Trackside. Easy to get to by abseiling from the eye-bolts.</text>
  <climb extraid="" grade="20" length="8m43" name="Long Ago And Best Forgotten" idnumber="4328." fa="McMahon, solo, 1976." length="8m" grade="20" numberextra="28.">The thin crack on the left.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="18" length="10m" 44" name="Looking for the Heart" idnumber="4429." fa="Parsons, Best, 1976." numberlength="10m" grade="18" extra="29.">Flaring groove and crack.</climb>
  <climb extraid="3Þ45" gradename="23Waiting for Bobo" lengthnumber="10m30." namefa="WaitingFisher, forSelby, Bobo1996." numberlength="30.10m" starsgrade="**23" idextra="453Þ" fastars="Fisher, Selby, 1996.**">And we still are. 3 eye-bolts.</climb>
  <climb extraid="46" grade="19" length="9m" name="Pool Shooting Shimmy Sheister" idnumber="4631." fa="Thomas, 1980." length=" number9m" grade="19" extra="31.">Finger crack on the right.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="47">Nighthawks Buttress</text>
  <text class="text" id="48">Access- scramble downhill and upstream from Shimmy Sheister buttress or go uphill and downstream from the top of the Mick Loves Anne face. All roads lead to Rome.</text>
  <climb extraid="4Þ49" gradename="27Rising Gorge" lengthnumber="13m32." namefa="RisingFisher, Gorge1996." numberlength="32.13m" starsgrade="27" idextra="494Þ" fastars="Fisher, 1996.">Another excellent job of undergrading by John who initially gave it 24. Line of 4 eye-bolts. DBB.</climb>
  <climb extraid="50" gradename="18Nighthawks" lengthnumber="10m33." namefa="NighthawksThomas, McMahon, 1980" starslength=" * 10m" idgrade="5018" faextra="Thomas, McMahon, 1980" numberstars="33. * ">Jamming up hand and fist crack on the front of the buttress. For the aficionados of the jam.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="51">Trench-Foot Face</text>
  <text class="text" id="52">Access- Just downhill and slightly upstream from Nighthawks is a separate face</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="10m  <climb id="53" name="Trench-Foot" idnumber="5334." fa="Parsons, Schmidt, 1976." numberlength="10m" grade="17" extra="34.">Lay away up thin crack to gain hand crack.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="54">The face to the right of Trench-Foot has been top-roped at somewhere between 17 and 19 depending what hold has most recently broken off.</text>
  <climb extraid="55" grade="15" length="8m" name="A Man&apos;s Drink" idnumber="5535." fa="Smith (solo), 1981." length="8m" grade="15" numberextra="35.">The crack behind the tree on the pillar 10m downhill from Trench-Foot.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="17" length="8m"56" name="A Man&apos;s Second Drink" idnumber="5636." fa="Smith, 1981." length=" number8m" grade="17" extra="36.">5m around the corner from A Man's Drink is a line of thin flakes leading up to a hand crack.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="57">Mickey Loves Anne Face</text>
  <text class="text" id="58">Access- From half-way down the descent track on the upstream side of Offal buttress walk upstream for 50m to a small clump of she-oaks. Abseil from the DBB behind these to the base of the cliff, approximately 12m, which is recognisable by the painted pierced heart. Alternatively scramble upstream 50m from the base of Offal. Multiple bolt belays on top.</text>
  <climb extraid="59" grade="16" length="8m" name="The Rain in Spain" idnumber="5937." fa="Parsons, Shields, 1975." length="8m" grade="16" numberextra="37.">The left hand-crack 3m from Choking the Chicken.</climb>
  <climb extra="3Þ" grade="22" length="10m <climb id="60" name="Choking the Chicken" number="38." starsfa="**Fisher, Fox, 1995." idlength="6010m" fagrade="Fisher, Fox, 1995.22" extra="3Þ" stars="**">Or 24 for the vertically challenged. The arete with 3 eye-bolts.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="20" length="10m61" name="Pickpocket" starsnumber=" * 39." id="61" fa="Ellenburger, K.Smith, 1975. Fantini, Smith, McMahon, 1981." length="10m" grade="20" extra="" numberstars="39. * ">Corner and thin crack 2m right of Choking The Chicken.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="17" length="10m" 62" name="Small Change" idnumber="6240." fa="Smith, McMahon, 1981." numberlength="10m" grade="17" extra="40.">Up crack, bulges and blocks.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="20" length="10m" name="Crab Spread63" starsname="Crab * Spread" idnumber="6341." fa="Fife, Narkowicz, 1982." length=" number="41.10m" grade="20" extra="" stars=" * ">Up face to eye-bolt and rusty old piton then to crack above.</climb>
  <climb extraid="64" grade="22" length="12m" name="Fruit of the Spirit" starsnumber=" * 42." fa="Narkowicz, 1982." idlength="6412m" fagrade="Narkowicz, 1982.22" extra="" numberstars="42. * ">The crack 3m left of Dead Zone up to a hollow block then 2 eye-bolts on the face above.</climb>
  <climb extraid="65" gradename="20Dead Zone" lengthnumber="12m43." namefa="Dead ZoneFantini, Smith,1981." starslength=" *** 12m" idgrade="6520" faextra="Fantini, Smith,1981." numberstars="43. *** ">Thin crack starting from sloping ledge. The big jug finish and associated large block at the top of dead zone no longer exist. Be aware the finishing moves pulling over the top may now be significantly harder.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="66">Saturday Night Buttress</text>
  <text class="text" id="67">Access- see map. Abseil in, bolt belays on top.</text>
  <climb extraid="" grade="17" length="10m68" name="Change My Tune" starsnumber=" * " id="68"44." fa="McMahon, Thomas, 1980." length=" number="44.10m" grade="17" extra="" stars=" * ">The main hand crack on the left.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="16" length="10m" 69" name="Stopping on the Red" starsnumber=" * " id="69"45." fa="Ellenburger, K.Smith, 1975." length="10m" grade="16" extra="" numberstars="45. * ">2m right of Change My Tune.</climb>
  <climb extraid="70" grade="18" length="10m" name="Zoo&apos;s Face" idnumber="7046." fa="Thomas (solo), 1981." numberlength="10m" grade="18" extra="46.">The face 2m right of Stopping On The Red. No gear worth stopping for.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="14" length="10m71" name="Cue Ball Head" idnumber="7147." fa="McMahon, Thomas,1980. " number="47.1980. " length="10m" grade="14" extra="">The broken crack line 4m upstream of Stopping On The Red.</climb>
  <text id="295">The face right of Cue Ball Head is another top rope route at about 17.</text>
  <climb extraid="72" grade="10" length="8m" name="Burgundy Sky" idnumber="7248." fa="McMahon, Thomas, 1980." numberlength="8m" grade="10" extra="48.">The next corner.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="17" length="8m73" name="Fly By Night" idnumber="7349." fa="Thomas, Keenan, McMahon, 1981." length="8m" grade="17" numberextra="49.">The last climb before the off-width corner. Up corner to block at the top. Harder than it looks.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="74">Foam Pinnacle</text>
  <text class="text" id="75">Access- Walk 30m up the ramp from Deadzone on the Mickey Loves Anne face. It's most use is for finding the access to Riverside Buttress</text>
  <climb extraid="" grade="1476" length="10m" name="Foam" idnumber="7650." fa="McMahon (solo), 1980." numberlength="10m" grade="14" extra="50.">The crack.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="77">Riverside Buttress</text>
  <text class="text" id="78">Access- Abseil in from the trees 10m below the Foam Pinnacle or scramble down the upstream side of Foam Pinnacle, best done at low tide.</text>
  <climb extraid="" grade="23" length="10m79" name="Innocent Bystander" idnumber="7951." fa="Smart, McMahon, 1982." numberlength="10m" grade="23" extra="51.">Thin crack up to steel spike.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="16" length="10m80" name="Bad Mouth" idnumber="8052." fa="McMahon, Smart, 1982." length=" number10m" grade="16" extra="52.">The off-width on the arete.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="19" length="10m" 81" name="Fugitive" idnumber="8153." fa="McMahon, Smart, 1982." length="10m" numbergrade="19" extra="53.">Corner 5m upstream from Bad Mouth.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="82">Pygmy Possum Buttress</text>
  <text class="text" id="83">Access- From Foam Pinnacle walk upstream and uphill for 40m or alternatively drop down from the upstream end of Saturday Night Buttress. The climbs on Pygmy Possum Buttress are almost 30m long and are some of the longest climbs in the Gorge.</text>
  <climb extraid="84" gradename="16Thylacine" lengthnumber="27m54." namefa="ThylacineMcMahon, Mohler, 1981." numberlength="54.27m" starsgrade="16" idextra="84" fastars="McMahon, Mohler, 1981.">Left hand off-width to hand crack then on to the face of the top pillar.</climb>
  <climb extraid="85" gradename="18Pygmy Possum" lengthnumber="25m55." namefa="Pygmy PossumMcHugh, McMahon, 1972." starslength=" ** 25m" grade="18" idextra="85" fastars="McHugh, McMahon, 1972." number="55." ** ">A difficult start up thin crack and corner before easing to hand jams. Continue up crack above.</climb>
  <climb extraid="86" gradename="16Schmidt Variant" lengthnumber="25m56." namefa="Schmidt Variant." idlength="8625m" fagrade="Schmidt.16" numberextra="56.">Starts up Thylacine and then traverses on to Pygmy Possum after the off-width.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="18" length="10m"87" name="French Ethics" starsnumber=" *** " id="8757." fa="Fox, Bissett, French, 1997." number="57." length="10m" grade="18" extra="" stars=" *** ">Scramble up the gully on the right of the Pygmy Possum Buttress to where it is possible to climb the arete/pillar with 3 eye-bolts and some natural gear (oh no) to a DBB.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="88">On The Way Pinnacle</text>
  <text class="text" id="89">Access- Directly above Pygmy Possum Buttress on the uphill side of the track to Saturday Night Buttress.</text>
  <climb extraid="90" grade="15" length="8m" name="On the Way" idnumber="9058." fa="McMahon (solo), 1980." length="8m" grade="15" numberextra="58.">Pleasant climbing up the crack behind the tree.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="91">Aqua-Slick Buttress</text>
  <text class="text" id="92">Right of Pygmy Possum Buttress and on the same level. Abseil in from DBB above.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="19" length="12m <climb id="93" name="Game of Chance" idnumber="9359." fa="McMahon, Mohler, 1981." length=" number12m" grade="19" extra="59.">Start in cleft on the far left up to overlap and crack above.</climb>
  <climb extraid="3Þ94" gradename="22Sunflower" lengthnumber="12m60." namefa="SunflowerNg, McOwan, 1990." numberlength="60.12m" starsgrade="*22" idextra="943Þ" fastars="Ng, McOwan, 1990.*">Climb the arête 1m left of Aqua-Slick with 3 U-bolts. Good climbing though the crux is avoiding stepping into Aqua-Slick. DBB.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="17" length="10m95" name="Aqua-Slick" idnumber="9561." fa="McMahon, Smith, 1980." length="10m" numbergrade="17" extra="61.">The hand crack just 1m right of Suflower.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="996" length="10m" name="Down to the Canvas" number="62." fa="McMahon, Smith, 1980." starslength="10m" grade="9" idextra="96" fastars="McMahon, Smith, 1980.">The right-hand face and crack with a hard start.</climb>
  <climb extraid="3Þ" grade="22" length="10m" 97" name="McDonalds is Good!" number="63." starsfa="Bissett, 1998." length="10m" idgrade="9722" faextra="Bissett, 1998.3Þ" stars="">Line of 3 bolts right of Down to the Canvas.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="98">Feltham Buttress</text>
  <text class="text" id="99">Access- see map. One of the most popular buttresses in the Gorge because of it's easy access and great variety of climbs.</text>
  <climb extraid="" grade="17100" length="10m" name="Deal an Ace" idnumber="10064." fa="Parsons, 1976." length="10m" grade="17" numberextra="64.">The first crack on the downstream end of the buttress.</climb>
  <climb extraid="101" gradename="21The Night Dweller" lengthnumber="12m65." namefa="The Night DwellerNg, 1989." starslength=" *** 12m" idgrade="10121" faextra="Ng, 1989." numberstars="65. *** ">Face climbing up the left-hand line of 2 carrots.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="24" length id="15m102" name="Crossing Siva" idnumber="10266." fa="Fox, DeCesare, 2002." length="15m" numbergrade="24" extra="66.">Climb to the 2nd bolt of The Night Dweller and traverse right at that level crossing Third Rising at the 2nd bolt and then across to Feltham. Easier for the tall and easier going right to left.</climb>
  <climb extraid="103" grade="19" length="14m" name="Out of Date Route" starsnumber=" ** 67." id="103" fa="Parsons (solo), 1982." length="14m" grade=" number="67.19" extra="" stars=" ** ">The face left of Westham with 2 carrots. Starts 2m left of Westham. A variant start on the block another 2m left goes at 17.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="14" length="14m"104" name="Westham" number="68." stars="**" id="104" fa="McMahon, Brooks High School, 1972 (Must have been crowded - Ed)." length="14m" grade="14" extra="" stars="**">The classic corner/crack system.</climb>
  <climb extraid="105" gradename="24Third Rising" lengthnumber="12m69." namefa="ThirdNg, Rising1990." starslength="**12m" idgrade="10524" faextra="Ng, 1990." numberstars="69.**">The orange face with 2 bolts and then exiting up the finger crack on the right.</climb>
  <climb extraid="106" gradename="22Feinian" lengthnumber="12m70." namefa="FeinianNg, 1989." numberlength="70.12m" starsgrade="*22" idextra="106" fastars="Ng, 1989.*">Climb the arête right of Third Rising using the same bolts and finish as for that climb, but somehow avoiding Lingham all the way.</climb>
  <climb extraid="107" gradename="18Lingham" lengthnumber="14m71." namefa="LinghamMcHugh, Schmidt, 1972." starslength=" *** 14m" idgrade="10718" faextra="McHugh, Schmidt, 1972." numberstars="71. *** ">Classic hand jamming.</climb>
  <climb extraid="108" gradename="24Venom" lengthnumber="14m72." namefa="VenomMcMahon, 1988." numberlength="72.14m" starsgrade="24" idextra="108" fastars="McMahon, 1988.">Wide arête 2m right of Lingham, this time avoiding going into either Lingham or Feltham!</climb>
  <climb extraid="109" gradename="16Feltham" lengthnumber="14m73." namefa="FelthamMcMahon, Schmidt, 1972." starslength=" * 14m" idgrade="10916" faextra="McMahon, Schmidt, 1972." numberstars="73. * ">Up right trending ramp to block then back left to hand crack.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="14" length="12m110" name="Smart Pig" idnumber="11074." fa="McMahon, Mason, 1973." length="12m" grade="14" numberextra="74.">Just 4m around the corner from F.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="15" length="12m" 111" name="Pork Hunt" idnumber="11175." fa="McMahon, Mason, 1973." numberlength="12m" grade="15" extra="75.">Starts 2m right of Smart Pig up broken corner and off-width.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="15" length="10m112" name="Cunningham" idnumber="11276." fa="McMahon, Brooks High School, 1972.1972." length="10m" grade="15" numberextra="76.">3m right of Pork Hunt go up crack through small roof.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="113">The next few routes are on the upstream face of the buttress</text>
  <climb extraid="" grade="19114" length="8m" name="Rasher" idnumber="11477." fa="Narkowicz, McMahon, 1981." numberlength="8m" grade="19" extra="77.">The thin crack past the rusty old piton.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="13" length="8m115" name="Dog Poisoner" idnumber="11578." fa="I.Thomas, McMahon, 1981." numberlength="8m" grade="13" extra="78.">Take the left hand crack.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="18" length="12m"116" name="Jelly Boy" starsnumber=" ** 79." id="116" fa="Kearnes, Fox, Decesare, 1998." number="79.length="12m" grade="18" extra="" stars=" ** ">Climb face to single U-bolt, then up to flake and on to top. First bolt can be easily clipped from right before starting to avoid awkward fall.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="13" length="10m" 117" name="Cunningham" idnumber="11780." fa="McMahon and Brooks High, 1972." length="10m" grade="13" numberextra="80.">5m right of Jelly boy. Climb up to overlap and up crack on the right.</climb>
  <climb extraid="118" grade="16" length="8m" name="Hamurabi" idnumber="11881." fa="McMahon, I.Thomas, 1981." numberlength="8m" grade="16" extra="81.">The third of 3 cracks around the corner from Cunningham. Needs a clean.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="13" length="8m"119" name="Plummeting Jugs" idnumber="11982." fa="McMahon, Holmes, 1999." length="8m" grade="13" numberextra="82.">The last corner.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="120">Across the gully from Hamurabi is a small buttress with one climb.</text>
  <climb extraid="" grade="16" length="8m" 121" name="Solitary" idnumber="12183." fa="McMahon, I.Thomas, 1981." numberlength="8m" grade="16" extra="83.">Thin corner with crack widening at the top.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="122">Porker Pinnacle</text>
  <text class="text" id="123">Access- The pinnacle at the base of Feltham. Abseil in from Feltham or scramble down on the downstream side.</text>
  <climb extraid="3Þ124" gradename="25Brazen Serpent" lengthnumber="10m84." namefa="BrazenNg, Serpent1989." numberlength="84.10m" starsgrade="***25" idextra="1243Þ" fastars="Ng, 1989.***">A must for all! Arête with 3 eye-bolts to a DBB.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="16125" length="10m" name="Porker" idnumber="12585." fa="McMahon, Smith, 1973." numberlength="10m" grade="16" extra="85.">Up behind block and then up left.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="8126" length="10m" name="Cutlet" idnumber="12686." fa="McMahon, Mason, 1973." length="10m" grade="8" numberextra="86.">Behind block and up right.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="127">Erza Buttress</text>
  <text class="text" id="128">Access- Abseil from Porker Pinnacle to the water line.</text>
  <climb extraid="129" grade="18" length="10m" name="Ezra" idnumber="12987." fa="McMahon, Mohler, 1982." numberlength="10m" grade="18" extra="87.">Starts at the bulge and then up to finger crack.</climb>
  <climb extraid="130" gradename="13Raze" lengthnumber="10m88." namefa="RazeMohler, McMahon, 1982." idlength="13010m" fagrade="Mohler, McMahon, 1982.13" numberextra="88.">From hanging belay climb face and crack via steel bracket.</climb>
  <climb extraid="131" grade="18" length="10m" name="Raze Variant" idnumber="13189." fa="McMahon, 1982." numberlength="10m" grade="18" extra="89.">Avoid the steel bracket by going right.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="132">Right Man Buttress</text>
  <text class="text" id="133">Access- See Map. Bolt belays.</text>
  <climb extraid="" grade="18" length="10m134" name="The Wrong Man" starsnumber=" ** " id="13490." fa="Smith, Ling, McMahon, 1980." length="10m" grade="18" extra="" numberstars="90. ** ">The first hand crack of the downstream end of the buttress. An excellent jamming excursion.</climb>
  <climb extraid="135" grade="24" length="10m" name="Roxanne" idnumber="13591." fa="Ng, 90&apos;s." length="10m" grade="24" numberextra="91.">The face 1m right of the Wrong Man, up to an eye-bolt and then the thin crack.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="25" length="9m136" name="Up the Wall" idnumber="13692." fa="Fisher, 1996." length="9m" grade="25" numberextra="92.">Thin face with 2 eye-bolts then exit up crack on left. Can be done starting up the chimney on the right and then moving left but take off two grades.</climb>
  <climb extraid="137" grade="22" length="9m" name="Touch and Go" starsnumber=" ** 93." id="137" fa="Fantini, Smith, Cameron, 1981." number="93." length="9m" grade="22" extra="" stars=" ** ">First finger crack on the next face.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="20" length="9m"138" name="Cold Chat" idnumber="13894." fa="Fantini, Smith, 1981." numberlength="9m" grade="20" extra="94.">The next crack starting as a finger crack then opening up to a hand crack.</climb>
  <climb extraid="139" grade="19" length="10m" name="Left Hand Man" idnumber="13995." fa="I.Thomas, McMahon, 1980." length="10m" grade="19" numberextra="95.">Starts up corner with thin crack to ledge and then easier crack.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="19" length="11m <climb id="140" name="The Right Man" idnumber="14096." fa="I.Thomas, McMahon, Warren, 1980." numberlength="11m" grade="19" extra="96.">The right line, the last of the 4 cracks.</climb>
  <climb extraid="141" gradename="24Ng Man" lengthnumber="12m97." namefa="Ng, Man1988." numberlength="97.12m" starsgrade="**24" idextra="141" fastars="Ng, 1988.**">Arête with 2 carrots and small wires.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="21" length="10m142" name="In-between Man" idnumber="14298." fa="Parsons, 1982." numberlength="10m" grade="21" extra="98.">Corner/thin crack 2m right of Ng Man.</climb>
  <climb extraid="143" gradename="19Hot Gossip" lengthnumber="10m99." namefa="Hot GossipSmith, Fantini, 1982." starslength=" * 10m" idgrade="14319" fa="Smith, Fantini, 1982.extra="" numberstars="99. * ">Corner/finger crack 2m right of In-between Man.</climb>
  <climb extraid="144" gradename="23Godfather" lengthnumber="11m100." namefa="GodfatherNg, 1990." numberlength="100.11m" starsgrade="23" idextra="144" fastars="Ng, 1990.">Arête with 2 carrot bolts. Most people start from the Hot Gossip ledge. Add a grade for the direct.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="16" length="11m145" name="Last Year&apos;s Man" idnumber="145101." fa="Smith, Fantini, 1981." length="11m" grade="16" numberextra="101.">Up awkward corner to the large hand crack.</climb>
  <climb extraid="5Þ" grade="21146" length="10m" name="Bohnanza" number="102." stars="**" id="146" fa="N Selby  9 Aug 2003." length="10m" grade="21" extra="5Þ" stars="**">This climb is on a new cliff just past Right Man buttress on the way to Fat Man buttress. Left leaning line/crack with 5 bolts to rap point. Stick clip the first bolt.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="147">Rhubarb Buttress</text>
  <text class="text" id="148">Access- Go down from the upstream end of Right Man Buttress and abseil in, or scramble across from Porker Pinnacle.</text>
  <climb extraid="149" grade="20" length="8m" name="Getting Dark, Too Dark to See" idnumber="149103." fa="McMahon, Narkowicz, 1982." length="8m" grade="20" numberextra="103.">The finger crack on the left hand end of the buttress which opens to a small corner and hand jamming.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="19" length="9m" 150" name="By the Light of Karabiners" idnumber="150104." fa="Narkowicz, McMahon, Nougher, 1982." length="9m" numbergrade="19" extra="104.">Corner and crack 3m right of Getting Dark...</climb>
  <climb extraid="151" gradename="15Straight Arm" lengthnumber="10m105." namefa="Straight ArmMcMahon, Narkowicz, 1982." numberlength="105.10m" starsgrade="15" idextra="151" fastars="McMahon, Narkowicz, 1982.">The hand crack near the arête.</climb>
  <climb extraid="152" grade="15" length="10m" name="Dog Leg" idnumber="152106." fa="McMahon, Smith, 1981." numberlength="10m" grade="15" extra="106.">Same start as Straight Arm then move right at 1/3 height to the next crack.</climb>
  <climb extraid="153" grade="18" length="11m" name="Diagonal" idnumber="153107." fa="Smith, McMahon, 1981." length="11m" grade="18" numberextra="107.">Go up the overhanging flake to right diagonal crack and along it to the twin cracks.</climb>
  <climb extraid="154" gradename="14Rhubarb" lengthnumber="10m108." namefa="RhubarbParsons, Woodruff, 1977." starslength=" ** 10m" idgrade="15414" faextra="Parsons, Woodruff, 1977." numberstars="108. ** ">The main corner and crack.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="23" length="9m155" name="Nowt&apos; Breakfast" starsnumber=" * 109." id="155" fa="Narkowicz, Maddock, 1982." length=" number="109.9m" grade="23" extra="" stars=" * ">Up thin crack 3m right of Rhubarb.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="18" length="9m"156" name="The Groove" idnumber="156110." fa="McMahon, Smith, 1981." number="110., 1981." length="9m" grade="18" extra="">Left slanting off-width.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="157">Lady Midgnight - Upper Tier</text>
  <text class="text" id="158">Access- Upstream and downhill from Right Man. The first 3 "climbs" are barely 5m long however the rest can aspire to be grown up climbs.</text>
  <climb extraid="159" grade="15" length="5m" name="Devil&apos;s Food" idnumber="159111." fa="McMahon, Smith, 1980." numberlength="5m" grade="15" extra="111.">A very short finger to hand crack - almost "diminutive".</climb>
  <climb extraid="160" gradename="16Skylight" lengthnumber="6m112." namefa="SkylightMcMahon, 1980." idlength="1606m" fagrade="McMahon, 1980.16" numberextra="112.">Off-width with a dog-leg at 1/3 height.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="17161" length="6m" name="Veiled Flesh" idnumber="161113." fa="Smith, McMahon, 1980." numberlength="6m" grade="17" extra="113.">Finger crack 4m upstream of Skylight.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="14" length="7m162" name="The Stain" idnumber="162114." fa="McMahon, others, 1980." numberlength="7m" grade="14" extra="114.">Short corner but long compared to the previous 3.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="24" length="7m163" name="Scottish Fire" idnumber="163115." fa="Ng, McOwen 1990." length=" number7m" grade="24" extra="115.">Step right from ledge onto arete and fixed hanger then head up. Originally done direct but a crucial hold has broken off and still waits for an ascent this way.</climb>
  <climb extraid="164" gradename="17Lady Midnight" lengthnumber="10m116." namefa="Lady MidnightParsons, Woodruff, 1977." starslength=" ** 10m" idgrade="16417" faextra="Parsons, Woodruff, 1977." numberstars="116. ** ">10m right of Fingal Fling. Up short corner and flake to move left to hand crack.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="165">Lady Midnight - Lower Tier</text>
  <text class="text" id="166">Access - abseil from the tree below Lady Midnight.</text>
  <climb extraid="167" gradename="22Consultation" lengthnumber="10m117." namefa="ConsultationParsons, 1982." idlength="16710m" fagrade="Parsons, 1982.22" numberextra="117.">Thin face and crack climbing on face 3m left of Joan Of Arc.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="21" length="10m"168" name="Joan of Arc" stars=" ** " idnumber="168118." fa="Thomas, Smith, McMahon, 1980." number="118." length="10m" grade="21" extra="" stars=" ** ">The crack you just abseiled past. Climb thin crack to gain left hand edge of cave then move back left to hand crack.</climb>
  <climb extraid="169" grade="23" length="10m" name="Arc of Joan" idnumber="169119." fa="McOwan, Wells, 1989." length="10m" grade="23" numberextra="119.">Climb the face right of Joan of Arc past a FH up to the cave and then up finger crack.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="18" length="10m170" name="Once Again" idnumber="170120." fa="Smith, McMahon, 1980." length="10m" grade="18" numberextra="120.">Traverse to the second corner upstream of Arc of Joan, preferably when the tide is out, then climb the hand crack.</climb>
  <climb extraid="171" grade="17" length="10m" name="Italian Club" idnumber="171121." fa="Mohler, McMahon, 1982." length=" number10m" grade="17" extra="121.">Abseil from 10m upstream of Lady Midnight to the water for a hanging belay. Climb the crack.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="17" length="10m" 172" name="Italian Way" idnumber="172122." fa="McMahon, Mohler, 1982." length="10m" grade="17" numberextra="122.">About 10m upstream of Italian Club. Climb up and left to the overhang and then up crack.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="17173" length="10m" name="Whore of Babylon" idnumber="173123." fa="McMahon, Thomas, 1980." numberlength="10m" grade="17" extra="123.">Best approached from the upstream side or even The Gully. Start at the water level go up the slab to the small roof and jam crack.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="174">Fatman Buttress - Upper Tier</text>
  <text class="text" id="175">Access- see map</text>
  <climb extraid="" grade="16176" length="10m" name="To the Elbow" idnumber="176124." fa="McMahon, Smith 1972." length="10m" grade="16" numberextra="124.">Climb the off-width behind the pillar of Thin Fiend on the downstream side.</climb>
  <climb extraid="4Þ177" gradename="20Thin Fiend" lengthnumber="10m125." namefa="ThinNg, Fiend1991." numberlength="125.10m" starsgrade="***20" idextra="1774Þ" fastars="Ng, 1991.***">Line of 4 carrots up the isolated downstream pinnacle.</climb>
  <climb extraid="178" grade="10" length="10m" name="Fatman" idnumber="178126." fa="McMahon, McHugh, 1972." length="10m" grade="10" numberextra="126.">The chimney behind the isolated Fatman Pinnacle 5m upstream from the Thin Friend pillar.</climb>
  <climb extraid="3Þ179" gradename="19Crucifix" lengthnumber="10m127." namefa="CrucifixNg, 1991." numberlength="127.10m" starsgrade="***19" idextra="1793Þ" fastars="Ng, 1991.***">Up the face of the Fatman Pinnacle past 3 carrots and friend placements in the horizontal breaks. DBB.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="13" length="10m"180" name="Thin Man" idnumber="180128." fa="McMahon, McHugh, 1972." length="10m" numbergrade="13" extra="128.">On the opposite side of Skinny Girl climb the easy face.</climb>
  <climb extraid="181" gradename="18Prow" lengthnumber="10m129." namefa="ProwSmart and McMahon." starslength=" * 10m" idgrade="18118" faextra="Smart and McMahon." numberstars="129. * ">Hard start then easily up on the left of the line of carrots.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="182">The bolts are the result of an Ng project which was to go on the right but is too contrived to bother with.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="10m <climb id="183" name="Skinny Girl" idnumber="183130." fa="Smith, McMahon." numberlength="10m" grade="18" extra="130.">Up through bulge and hand crack to the split between the pillar and the buttress proper.</climb>
  <climb extraid="184" grade="18" length="8m" name="Acoustics and Meat" idnumber="184131." fa="Narkowicz, McMahon." length="8m" grade="18" numberextra="131.">The off-width through the small roof 10m uphill and right of Skinny Girl.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="13" length="8m185" name="Getting On With the Neighbours" idnumber="185132." fa="Mohler, Madden, 1981." length="8m" numbergrade="13" extra="132.">The corner 3m up hill from Acoustics &amp; Meat.</climb>
  <climb extraid="186" grade="15" length="8m" name="Pot Belly" idnumber="186133." fa="Smith, McMahon, 1981." length="8m" grade="15" numberextra="133.">Off-width climbing saved by chock-stones.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="16" length="10m187" name="Not Out" idnumber="187134." fa="McMahon, Madden, 1981." length="10m" grade="16" numberextra="134.">The thin corner 3m right of Pot Belly.</climb>
  <climb extraid="3Þ188" grade="25" length="10m" name="When the Fat Lady Sings" number="135." stars="**" id="188" fa="Fox, Munro, Kearnes, 1996." length="10m" grade="25" extra="3Þ" stars="**">The arête/pillar with 3 eye-bolts. DBB.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="7" length="10m"189" name="The Oil" idnumber="189136." fa="Madden, Mohler, 1981." numberlength="10m" grade="7" extra="136.">The chimney at the back of When the Fat Lady Sings.</climb>
  <climb extraid="190" grade="14" length="9m" name="Purveyor of Flesh" idnumber="190137." fa="McMahon, Smith, 1981." length="9m" grade="14" numberextra="137.">Second last corner of the buttress 10m uphill from When the Fat Lady Sings.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="15" length="9m <climb id="191" name="Price of Meat" idnumber="191138." fa="McMahon, Smith, 1981." numberlength="9m" grade="15" extra="138.">The last corner.</climb>
  <climb extraid="2Þ192" gradename="23Start Running" lengthnumber="7m139." namefa="StartNg, Running1991." numberlength="139.7m" starsgrade="23" idextra="1922Þ" fastars="Ng, 1991.">The 2 carrots 3m left of You're Fat! Starting at the same level step left on to arete. Originally conceived with a direct independent start but still waiting.</climb>
  <climb extraid="2Þ" grade="18" length="7m"193" name="You&apos;re Fat!" number="140." starsfa="DeCesare, Fox, 1996." idlength="1937m" fagrade="DeCesare, Fox, 1996.18" extra="2Þ" stars="">Climb the face with 2 bolts on the end of the buttress.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="194">Fatman Buttress - Lower Tier</text>
  <text class="text" id="195">Access by abseiling from the tree below Skinny Girl.</text>
  <climb extraid="196" grade="20" name="Gerry&apos;s River Traverse" idnumber="196141." fa="Narkowicz (solo), 1982." grade="20" numberextra="141.">Starts somewhere down river of Fatman Buttress and goes for about 100m. "The landing is soft and rarely more than 1m away" to quote someone.</climb>
  <climb extra="Þ" grade="21" length="12m
  <climb id="197" name="Fear and Frothing" number="142." starsfa="*Narkowicz, McMahon, 1982." idlength="19712m" fagrade="Narkowicz, McMahon, 1982.21" extra="Þ" stars="*">The thin cracks past an eye-bolt to the steel spike then traverse left to the arête and another eye-bolt.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="18" length="12m198" name="Cantilever Corner" idnumber="198143." fa="McMahon, Smart, 1982." length="12m" grade="18" numberextra="143.">Corner and face 3m right of Fear and Frothing.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="19199" length="10m" name="Montefeltro" idnumber="199144." fa="McMahon, Narkowicz, 1982." numberlength="10m" grade="19" extra="144.">Flaring crack 4m upstream of Cantilever Corner.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="17" length="10m200" name="Urbino" idnumber="200145." fa="McMahon, Fantini, 1980." numberlength="10m" grade="17" extra="145.">Uphill and upstream of the last climb is a separate pillar split by a crack.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="201">Wonders of the Flesh Buttress</text>
  <text class="text" id="202">This buttress is upstream and on the same level as the top of the Fatman Buttress, directly above The Gully.</text>
  <climb extraid="" grade="17" length="9m203" name="Third Knuckle" idnumber="203146." fa="McMahon, Smith, 1981." length=" number9m" grade="17" extra="146.">Hand crack on the left.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="16" length="9m" 204" name="Sapient Sutler" idnumber="204147." fa="Parsons et al, 1976." length="9m" numbergrade="16" extra="147.">Left hand line on the right hand side of the buttress.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="16" length="9m205" name="Polyphiloprogenitive" idnumber="205148." fa="Smith, McMahon, 1981." numberlength="9m" grade="16" extra="148.">Corner right of Sapient Sutler to join it at the off-width.</climb>
  <climb extraid="4Þ206" gradename="19Fish Fingered Choir Girl" guide.actionnumber="submit149." guide.id="204" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb"fa="Dennis Kearnes, Michael Fox, 3 Nov 2007." length="12m" namegrade="Fish Fingered Choir Girl19" numberextra="149.4Þ" stars="" idguide.type="206climb" faguide.page="Dennis Kearnes, Michael Fox, 3 Nov 2007.0" guide.id="204" guide.action="submit">A couple of metres left of Noodle Armed Choir Boy. Climb the face, 4 fixed hangers, take a wire for the top moves if you want extra pro. DBB at the top.</climb>
  <climb extraid="207" grade="18" length="12m" name="Noodle Armed Choir Boy" idnumber="207150." fa="Bissett, 1998." length="12m" grade="18" numberextra="150.">On face that faces upstream overlooking The Gully. Walk downhill and then upstream from You're Fat and abseil to large ledge from DBB on LPFY! Climb face corner past two U-bolts, then natural gear.</climb>
  <climb extraid="Þ" grade="25" length="12m" 208" name="Lesbo Pussy Feast, Yehah!!" number="151." starsfa="Bissett, 1998" length="**12m" idgrade="20825" faextra="Þ"Bissett, 1998 stars="**">The line 4m right of NACB. Climb past two U-bolts (double ropes may be better, but clips are good) into corner, place a cam and go up.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="209">The Gully</text>
  <text class="text" id="210">Access- requires a 30m abseil from the double bolt belay, next to small tree below the Wonders of the Flesh Buttress.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="21" lengthid="25m211" name="Lutzen" idnumber="211152." fa="Fantini, McMahon, 1981." length="25m" grade="21" numberextra="152.">Start on the downstream side of the gully. 1) Climb up the thin line to the black face, then continue to a grassy ledge. 2) Climb up the obvious left crack.</climb>
  <climb extraid="212" gradename="18Eyalu" lengthnumber="27m153." namefa="EyaluMcMahon, Duhig, 1980." starslength=" *** 27m" idgrade="21218" faextra="McMahon, Duhig, 1980." numberstars="153. *** ">The main crack. Can be split at the grassy ledge.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="11" length="27m213" name="The Gully Route" number="154." stars="" id="213" fa=" Talbot, K.Smith, 1975." length="27m" grade="11" extra="" stars="">What other description do you need?</climb>
  <climb extraid="214" gradename="19Bautlen" lengthnumber="20m155." namefa="BautlenMcMahon, Ling, 1982." starslength=" * 20m" idgrade="21419" faextra="McMahon, Ling, 1982." numberstars="155. * ">On the upstream side of the gully. Up blank corner past piton, through small roof and up crack.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="215">Mars Wall</text>
  <text class="text" id="216">Access- upstream from the gully. Abseil in from 2 bolts above Almost Mars.</text>
  <climb extraid="3Þ217" gradename="21Chardonnay Man" lengthnumber="10m156." namefa="Chardonnay ManBissett, Fox, 1997" numberlength="156.10m" starsgrade="***21" idextra="2173Þ" fastars="Bissett, Fox, 1997***">The arête left of Mars Wall proper. 3 bolts to a DBB.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="22" length="12m218" name="Almost Mars" idnumber="218157." fa="Smart, McMahon, 1982." numberlength="12m" grade="22" extra="" stars="157.">Thin crack and face climbing 1m left of Mars deviating right at the top. Apparently a direct finish has been done at 24.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length id="12m219" name="Mars" idnumber="219158." fa="Thomas, Smith, McMahon 1981." length="12m" numbergrade="18" extra="158.">The crack.</climb>
  <climb extraid="6Þ220" grade="21" length="16m" name="Serenity Now!!" number="159." fa=" starsBissett, 1998." length="***16m" idgrade="22021" faextra="Bissett, 1998.6Þ" stars="***">In the gully right of Mars Wall is a line of 6 U-bolts. This is it. DBB.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="221">Gabriel Gully</text>
  <text class="text" id="222">Access- above and to the right of Mars Wall is a gully, on the left is a very small buttress with the following routes. It can also be accessed from Gabriel.</text>
  <climb extraid="" grade="23" length="8m"223" name="Fuseli" idnumber="223160." fa="McMahon, Ling, 1982." numberlength="8m" grade="23" extra="160.">The blank corner to the crack and then exit left. Originally used a piton runner.</climb>
  <climb extraid="224" grade="16" length="9m" name="Incubus" idnumber="224161." fa="Ling, McMahon, 1982." length="9m" grade="16" numberextra="161.">Up crack to groove.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="9m <climb id="225" name="Sucubus" idnumber="225162." fa="McMahon, Ling, 1982." numberlength="9m" grade="16" extra="162.">Hand crack.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="226">Gabriel Buttress</text>
  <text class="text" id="227">Access- either by hopping across the rocks when (the tide is out) opposite the table and chairs on the Shady Side, or follow the map. The first 3 routes are on the left uphill section of the cliff. Bolt belays on top of main cliff.</text>
  <climb extraid="228" grade="22" length="20m" name="Bolingbroke" idnumber="228163." fa="McMahon, Ling, 1982." length="20m" grade="22" numberextra="163.">The thin corner to horizontal break/roof. You can escape here by stepping across left to ledge or go left and continue up chimney for pitch 2.</climb>
  <climb extraid="229" gradename="22Body Extraction" lengthnumber="20m164." namefa="Body ExtractionFox, Bissett, 1997." starslength=" ** 20m" idgrade="22922" faextra="Fox, Bissett, 1997." numberstars="164. ** ">A better version of the above climb. Instead of escaping at break/roof, keep going up past a U-bolt, then some gear and ledges to more bolts.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="19" length="10m230" name="Wad" idnumber="230165." fa="Narkowicz, McMahon, 1982." length="10m" grade="19" numberextra="165.">The corner/crack right of Bolingbroke.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="13" length="10m"231" name="Tree Root" idnumber="231166." fa="McHugh, McMahon, 1972." length=" number10m" grade="13" extra="166.">From top of Wad go up slabs to corner and right to groove.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="232">The next routes are on the bottom tier of the Gabriel Buttress facing directly onto the river.</text>
  <climb extraid="" grade="23" length="10m" 233" name="Bonking in Kombis" number="167." stars="*" id="233" fa="Fox, Munro, Povey, 1995." length="10m" grade="23" extra="" stars="*">Arête and shallow corner on the downstream end. 2 eye-bolts and small cams. DBB.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="234">These next climbs finish at a DBB at the ledge.</text>
  <climb extraid="235" grade="17" length="12m" name="Gabriel" starsnumber=" * 168." id="235" fa="McMahon, Burnett, Mallinson, 1973." length="12m" grade="17" extra="" numberstars="168. * ">Twin crack/corner on the bottom left of the Gabriel Buttress.</climb>
  <climb extra="2Þ" grade="25" length="12m<climb id="236" name="Third Uncle" number="169." fa="Ng, 1989." starslength="***12m" idgrade="23625" faextra="Ng, 1989.2Þ" stars="***">Arête with 2 fixed hangers.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="19" length="12m" 237" name="Don&apos;t Look at the Mantelpiece When You Poke the Fire" starsnumber=" ** 170." id="237" fa="Deka, Ling, McMahon, Smith, 1980." length="12m" grade="19" extra="" numberstars="170. ** ">Face and crack system right of Third Uncle.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="238">The next two climbs go from the ledge above Don't Look at the ....</text>
  <climb extraid="239" grade="15" length="12m" name="Cashel" idnumber="239171." fa="McMahon, Talbot, 1975." numberlength="12m" grade="15" extra="171.">Climb up 3m and traverse upstream 10m from the DBB above Third Uncle. Climb the off-width crack with a FH on the right and a loose chockstone which faces downstream.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="21" length="14m"240" name="Lost in Space" stars=" ** " id="240 in Space" number="172." fa="Parsons, Deka, 1981." number="172." length="14m" grade="21" extra="" stars=" ** ">10m upstream from the DBB and 3m right of Cashel is a small roof. Climb up this to a thin crack/corner system leading to an overlap and finger crack beyond.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="241">The following routes are back on the river level.</text>
  <climb extraid="242" grade="12" length="12m" name="Spike Route" starsnumber=" * " id="242"173." fa="McMahon, Burnett, Mallinson, 1973." length="12m" grade="12" extra="" numberstars="173. * ">Climb up past the obvious spike.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="13" length="12m" 243" name="Lay Down" idnumber="243174." fa="McMahon, Burnett, 1973." numberlength="12m" grade="13" extra="174.">The crack 3m right of the Spike Route.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="15" length="26m244" name="Ornithologist" idnumber="244175." fa="Hamilton, Smith, 1981.." length="26m" grade="15" numberextra="175.">Crack behind tree to ledge then up the next tier on the right to the chimney/off-width crack.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="16245" length="8m" name="Mistake Flake" idnumber="245176." fa="Smith, Cameron, Deka, Hamilton, 1981." numberlength="8m" grade="16" extra="176.">Flake 3m above the ground.</climb>
  <climb extraid="246" grade="17" length="20m" name="Loose Money, Juice Money" starsnumber=" * 177." id="246" fa="Smith, McMahon, Cover, 1980." length="20m" grade="17" extra="" numberstars="177. * ">Up main crack in the centre of the buttress to the top. It is possible to traverse left at the start of the off-width into another crack at about 18.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="247">The next climbs start on the second tier on the right hand side of the buttress</text>
  <climb extraid="248" grade="20" length="12m" name="Son of Man" starsnumber=" ** " id="248178." fa="Narkowicz, Kearnes, Ng, 1985" length="12m" grade="20" extra="" numberstars="178. ** ">Up left trending flake to arete, sparse protection but excellent climbing.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="21" length="10m  <climb id="249" name="Hand in Glove" idnumber="249179." fa="Ng, 1990." numberlength="10m" grade="21" extra="179.">Climb the large pillar 4m right of Son of Man, one carrot only and a cosmetic wire.</climb>
  <climb extraid="250" grade="19" length="13m" name="Chicken Shit Variant" number="180." stars="" id="250" fa="De Cesare, Jones Oct 2003." length="13m" grade="19" extra="" stars="">Climb Cowardice to the crack below the roof. Step left onto the face and crank the spaced face holds up and left past one fixed hanger to the #1 cam crack.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="16" length="13m"251" name="Cowardice" idnumber="251181." fa="Smith, Cover, 1980." numberlength="13m" grade="16" extra="181.">Yellow corner on the right of the buttress. Classic climbing.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="252">Gabriel Amphitheatre</text>
  <text class="text" id="253">Access- up right of the main face of Gabriel Buttress</text>
  <climb extraid="254" gradename="19Cacodaemon" lengthnumber="10m182." namefa="CacodaemonMcMahon, 1973." starslength=" * 10m" idgrade="25419" faextra="McMahon, 1973." numberstars="182. * ">Elegant climbing up clean corner and thin finger crack.</climb>
  <climb extraid="5Þ255" gradename="26Spiritual Warfare" lengthnumber="15m183." namefa="SpiritualNarkowicz Warfare2001." numberlength="183.15m" starsgrade="*26" idextra="2555Þ" fastars="Narkowicz 2001.*">The arête right of Cacodaemon. Climb Mendelt's Route to the first bolt and then move left to the arête past 4 more bolts to DBB. Difficult to avoid stepping onto MR at times but worthwhile if you can.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="16" length="10m256" name="Mendelt&apos;s Route" number="184." starsfa="Mendelt Tillema, 1974." idlength="25610m" fagrade="16"Mendelt Tillema, 1974. extra="" stars="">Off-width corner right of Spiritual Fire.</climb>
  <climb extraid="257" grade="23" length="10m" name="Prince Hamlet" idnumber="257185." fa="McMahon, Smith, 1982." numberlength="10m" grade="23" extra="185.">Thin crack 1m right of Mendelt's Route. Originally done with a piton.</climb>
  <climb extraid="258" gradename="16Cutting Corner" lengthnumber="9m186." namefa="CuttingMcMahon, Corner1980." idlength="2589m" fagrade="McMahon, 1980.16" numberextra="186.">The next corner right.</climb>
  <climb extraid="259" grade="14" length="9m" name="Duke of York" idnumber="259187." fa="McMahon, McHugh, 1972." numberlength="9m" grade="14" extra="187.">Up the twin cracks.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="21" length="9m260" name="Expiation" idnumber="260188." fa="McMahon, Martin, Mohler, 1982." length="9m" grade="21" numberextra="188.">Up crack to flake clearing vegetation and dirt as you go.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="261">School Girl Pinnacles</text>
  <text class="text" id="262">About half way down to Gabriel Buttress from the top (or halfway to the zig-zag track from the bottom) is a Pinnacle with a few bolted lines on it. This is it. DBB on top.</text>
  <climb extraid="" grade="14" length="10m" 263" name="Hot For Teacher" idnumber="263189." fa="Bissett, French, 1997" numberlength="10m" grade="14" extra="189.">On the down stream side of the pinnacle is an easy line to the top. Its really only worthwhile as a means to get to the top if you want to top-rope the other lines.</climb>
  <climb extraid="Þ" grade="22" length="10m"264" name="The Delightful Giggle of Schoolgirls" number="190.." fa="Bissett, 1997." length="10m" starsgrade="*22" idextra="264Þ" fastars="Bissett, 1997.*">On the downhill face of the pinnacle. Follow the bolts. DBB.</climb>
  <climb extraid="4Þ" grade="26" length="10m" 265" name="Schoolgirl&apos;s Secret Pleasure Spot" number="191." starsfa="Fox, 1997." length="***10m" idgrade="26526" faextra="4Þ"Fox, 1997. stars="***">The upstream line of 4 bolts. Start from the right then go straight up. DBB.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="266">Uphill and slightly right of the above routes is a slabby looking piece of rock. This is Six-pack Slab and the following two climbs are there.</text>
  <climb extraid="3Þ267" gradename="22Max Factor" lengthnumber="10m192." namefa="Max FactorFox, Nicholls, 1997." numberlength="192.10m" starsgrade="*22" idextra="2673Þ" fastars="Fox, Nicholls, 1997.*">The left line of 3 bolts, past a hard start. DBB.</climb>
  <climb extraid="3Þ268" gradename="22Six-Pack" lengthnumber="10m193." namefa="Six-PackNichols, Fox, 1997." numberlength="193.10m" starsgrade="22" idextra="2683Þ" fastars="Nichols, Fox, 1997.">"Cos it ain't no fuckin' slab", said the delusional first ascensionist. The right line of 3 bolts. DBB.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="269">Dent de Lion Pinnacles</text>
  <text class="text" id="270">About 50m upstream from Gabriel Buttress or where you cross the river when the tide is out are two separate pillars of rock. The downstream one being the taller and pointier of the two.</text>
  <climb extraid="271" grade="24" length="8m" name="Hot Tips From Bisso" idnumber="271194." fa="Fox and Bissett, 2001." numberlength="8m" grade="24" extra="194.">The downstream pinnacle up past 2 bolts to the crack above and a DBB.</climb>
  <climb extraid="3Þ" grade="24" length="9m"272" name="The Dum Arm" number="195." starsfa="*Fox and Bissett 2001." idlength="2729m" fagrade="Fox and Bissett 2001.24" extra="3Þ" stars="*">Down and right 10m from HTFB is a line of 3 bolts that go to a DBB.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="273">Tithog Pinnacle</text>
  <text class="text" id="274">Access- About 100m upstream from Gabriel Buttress, almost where you cross the river when the tide is in, is a small pinnacle almost hidden by the trees.</text>
  <climb extraid="275" grade="16" length="8m" name="Tithog" idnumber="275196." fa="McMahon, Mohler, 1982." length=" number8m" grade="16" extra="196.">The hand crack on the left hand side of the pinnacle.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="23" length="8m" 276" name="Vision of Hope" idnumber="276197." fa="Narkowicz, 2001." length="8m" grade="23" numberextra="197.">Through the overhang right of Tithog past 2 bolts and a 1.5 cam to a DBB.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="277">Ling's Pinnacle</text>
  <text class="text" id="278">Access- 100m upstream from Tithog Pinnacle or opposite the Prince of Darkness.</text>
  <climb extraid="" grade="19279" length="10m" name="Ling&apos;s Slant" idnumber="279198." fa="Ling, Lamb, McMahon, 1982." numberlength="10m" grade="19" extra="198.">Start up the crack facing the river then go right around the arête and into the slant.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="22280" length="8m" name="The Plumb Line" idnumber="280199." fa="Narkowicz, 2001" length="8m" grade="22" numberextra="199.">The thin crack to the right of Ling's Slant with one bolt.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="281">Paradise Buttress</text>
  <text class="text" id="282">Another 50m upstream from Ling's Slant is the last passable piece of rock before the river bends around to the Tea Room Cliffs.</text>
  <climb extraid="Þ283" gradename="22Heavenly Prize" lengthnumber="8m200." namefa="HeavenlyNarkowicz, Prize2001" numberlength="200.8m" starsgrade="*22" idextra="283Þ" fastars="Narkowicz, 2001*">The left hand line of bolts to a DBB.</climb>
  <climb extraid="Þ284" gradename="23Paradise Road" lengthnumber="8m201." namefa="ParadiseNarkowicz, Road2001." numberlength="201.8m" starsgrade="23" idextra="284Þ" fastars="Narkowicz, 2001.">The right hand line of bolts. Add a grade if you feel vertically challenged and you're onsighting it. DBB.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="285">Tea Room Cliffs</text>
  <text class="text" id="286">Access- Directly opposite the Gorge Restaurant Tea Rooms look-out are two small cliffs, about 20m 1 is the most downstream of the 2 buttress.</text>
  <climb extraid="3Þ" grade="24" length="12m" 287" name="Boys On the Monkey Bars" number="202." stars="***" id="287" fa="Fox, Munro, DeCesare, 1995." length="12m" grade="24" extra="3Þ" stars="***">Climb arête on separate pillar with 3 eye-bolts. DBB.</climb>
  <climb extraid="2Þ288" gradename="23Masturbation" lengthnumber="9m203." namefa="MasturbationFox, Munro, 1996." numberlength="203.9m" starsgrade="23" idextra="2882Þ" fastars="Fox, Munro, 1996.">It's not only wankers that do it. 2 eye-bolts around the corner from Boys On the Monkey Bars. Hard to avoid the block behind and awkward clips.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="289">and on Tea Room No 2 is ...</text>
  <climb extraid="" grade="19" length="9m290" name="Yellow Corner" idnumber="290204." fa="Thomas, Fantini, 1980.." length="9m" grade="19" numberextra="204.">With a name like that who needs a description? The crack to a shallow yellow corner.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="17291" length="10m" name="Passing the Time" idnumber="291205." fa="McMahon, Ogbourne, 1982." numberlength="10m" grade="17" extra="205.">Off-width corner 3m right of Yellow Corner. Surprisingly good fun.</climb>
  <climb extraid="292" gradename="15Peacock Walk" lengthnumber="9m206." namefa="PeacockMcMahon, Walk1978." numberlength="206.9m" starsgrade="15" idextra="292" fastars="McMahon, 1978.">Up horizontal breaks and blocks 5m right of Passing the Time. A variant start 2m further right is also quite good.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="17" length="9m"293" name="Extreme Unction" idnumber="293207." fa="McMahon, Martin, Mohler, 1982." numberlength="9m" grade="17" extra="207.">Around bulge to crack.</climb>
  <climb extraid="294" grade="17" length="9m" name="Robertson&apos;s Off-Width" idnumber="294208." fa="Robertson, 1978." length=" number9m" grade="17" extra="208.">Guess what?</climb>
</guide>