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Rocky Cape
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pinmatik - Rocky Cape
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<guide version="3"> <header access="The main climbing areas, about one hour drive west of Burnie, are reached via the C227 (Rocky Cape Road), turning off the A2 about 2.5 km west of the Rocky Cape township. After about 3 km take the first turn R to the Burgess Cove crags, or the second turn R to the Light House (signposted) and the main climbing area. Park at the start of the walking track to North Cave (GPS RCP000). <br/>National Park fees apply and can be purchased from the General Store at Sisters Beach, the Rocky Cape Roadhouse (on the highway as you turn into the park), and Service Tasmania statewide. Camping is prohibited in the Park and there is no fresh-water near the climbs. The nearest camping is at the Rocky Cape township, Peggs Beach just past Port Latta on the way to Stanley (free camping, no water), or Boat Harbour. Toilets are available at Burgess Cove and Mary Ann Cove. <br/>Phytophthora, root rot, is a problem in the park so please make sure your boots are clean before and after your visit.<br/><br/><br/>Peregrine falcons nest on the cliffs so keep away from any nest and out of sight during the breeding season from August through to December. The most common site of nests has been near North Cave/Ramps are, so there is a standing seasonal closure of extending from Zorro wall to the ramp area (inclusive). If they do appear anywhere else, and you get persistent “hecking” calls from a falcon during the nesting period, back off. " acknowledgement="by Tony McKenny (based on an original guide by Neale Smith, Nick Williams and Rima Truchanas), originally published in Craglets 6." history="Glen Kowalik was the leading mover and groover back in the early seventies with ascents of Zorro and Shelob Stairs, two quality lines, but the main period of exploration was in the late seventies and early eighties. Local activists from the north west coast including John Richardson, Tony McKenny, Robert (Bird) Hamilton and Bevis (Fred) Dutton were responsible for pioneering a number of the better routes including the excellent Vader and Jamboree, but it was the dynamic duo of a youthful Nic Deka and Neale Smith, backed up by Nick Williams, who pushed up the grades, and the quality, with classics such as Juggernaut, Virgin on the Ridiculous and the desperate Scary Monster." intro="Opportunities for quality climbing are a bit thin on the ground in the Northwest of the State but the pinmatik - Rocky Cape crag is a gem. Located at the western end of the National Park, these orange and white quartzites are amongst the oldest rocks in Tasmania, dating from around 1.5 billion years ago when this part of Tasmania seems to have been part of North America.<br/>The crags offer a range of climbs in idyllic settings beside the sea. The main crag above Cave Bay has superb quality rock particularly at the north (L) end, hard and glassy, and steep although the rest of the crag is a bit more broken and a little loose in places. Most of the climbs can be climbed in one (at times, long, rope stretching) 50m pitch although many were climbed originally in two pitches or more. <br/><br/>Decent from the cliff can be made with 2 or 3 rappels on fixed slings to the right of Zoro. There is a slung boulder at the very top of the ridge and end of pitch 4 of Zoro. The next point is 5m right of the top of the third pitch of Zorro. A 60m rope at full stretch should get you from here to the ground, alternatively there is a third point at the end of the second pitch of Zoro. <br/><br/>This area is of great spiritual significance to the Tasmanian Aboriginal people, and Aboriginal sites such as the cave and middens are fully protected by law. Please respect the historic and spiritual values they represent by leaving them as you found them. We strongly recommend that climbers avoid the routes round the North Cave area in particular. The old descent gully should also be avoided for this reason. <br/>" name="pinmatik - Rocky Cape" rock="Quartzite 10-25m" sun="Afternoon sun" walk="10mins" id="1" camping="" autonumber="false"/> <text id="98" class="heading3">Crag Steward</text> <text id="99" class="text">Rock climbers please contact the Cliff Steward (sistersbeachrockycape@climbersclubtas.org.au) if you have any queries or concerns regarding social or environmental impacts of rock climbing at this crag.</header></text></guide>...
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